HI 



ill 

Hi 



iBBiMamntBB 

■flHHRl 



MIL 

Bin 



AI 



-d 



■ftfl 



?i 



Hi 



II Hi 

M H 

HW BHBw t 

IliU 



09W 



H& 



Hi 




■Hi 



m 




H0liIrHMHif)f 



£-> 





BOOKS FOR TRAVELLERS. 



THE SANATIVE INFLUENCE OF CLIMATE. With an Account of the 
t, Places of Resort for Invalids. By Sir Jamks Clark, Bart., M.D. Tost 
10*. 6d. 

A MANUAL OF SCIENTIFIC S T QUIET; For the use of Travellers. 
led by Sir J. Hkkschk i i>s. Post 8vo, 10s. 6d. 

HUMBOLDT'S COSMOS. Translated by Mrs. Sabink. 3 vols. Post 8vo, 5*. 

HUMBOLDT'S ASPECTS OF NATURE. Translated by Mrs. Sabink. 2 vols. 
Post 

PHYSICAL GEOGEAPHY. By Mrs.Somerville. Portrait. 2 vols. 12mo, 12*. 

< i:XION OF TI IYSICAL SCIENCES. By Mrs. Somerville. 

Plates. Fcap. 8vo, 1 

PRINCIPLES OF GEOLOGY r . By Sir Charles Lvbll. Woodcuts. 8vo, 18*. 

MANUAL OF ELEMENTARY GEOLOGY. By Sir Charles Lv 
Woodcuts. 8vo, 12*. 

ED BYRON'S LIFE AND LETTEES. Portraits. Royal 8vo, 12*. 
LORD BYRON'S POETICAL WORKS. The Complete Edition. Portrait 

BOSWELL'S LIFE OF JOHNSON. Edited, with Notes, by Mr. Croker. 
Portraits. Royal 8vo, 15*. 

I ABBE'S LIFE AND POETICAL WORKS. Portrait. Royal 8vo, 10*.6d. 
OUTLINES OF ENGLISH LITERATURE. By t. b. Shaw. i2mo, i 

VXD WORKS OF HORACE. By Rev. Dean Milman. Illustrated by 
s. 8vo, 42s. 



LL 



NS IN TRAVEL. By Sir Humphry Davy. Woodcuts. Fcar>. 



SALMONIA, OR DAYS OP FLY FISHING. By Sir Humphry Daw. Wood- 
cuts. Fcap. 8vo, 6*. 

SPECIMENS OF COLERIDGE'S TABLE TALK. Portrait. Fcap.8vo,6*. 

THE INTELLECTUAL POWERS. By Dr. Abercrombie, Fcap. 8vo, 

PHILOSOFHY OF THE MORAL FEELINGS. By Dr. Abercrombie, 
Fcap. 8vo, 4*. 

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 

rr, 1851. 



'mWi 



•>©*.*■« 



1 £■. ■ h _ *A. ... 



'-•V. 



\ . 






A HANDBOOK 



FOR 



TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. 



NOTICE. 



This Edition of the Handbook has been subjected to a most careful and 
thorough revision ; many new routes, including the Railroads of Holland, 
Germany, and Belgium, are added, and several have been re-written. The 
Editor trusts that the imperfections and errors of this book will be found 
to have been considerably diminished. His own personal rectification of mis- 
takes and omissions has been most materially aided by the communications of 
numerous and obliging correspondents, many of them personally unknown to 
him, to whom he takes this opportunity of returning his acknowledgments. 
He begs, at the same time, to repeat his request that travellers who may in the 
use of the Handbook detect any faults or omissions which they can correct 
from 'personal knowledge, will have the kindness to mark them down on the spot, 
with the date when they are made, and communicate to him a notice of the 
same, favouring him at the same time with their names — addressed to the care 
of Mr. Murray, Albemarle Street. The Editor ventures also to request his cor- 
respondents to write foreign names with as much distinctness as possible. They 
may be reminded that by such communications they are not merely furnishing 
the means of improving the Handbook, but are contributing to the benefit, 
information, and comfort of future travellers. 

*#* No attention can be paid to letters from innkeepers in praise of their 
own houses ; and the postage of them ' is so onerous that they cannot be 
received. 

The Editor of the Handbooks for Travellers takes this opportunity of re- 
turning his thanks to the numerous obliging correspondents who have favoured 
him by communicating notices of errors and omissions in this and other Guide- 
books, of which he has gladly availed himself to improve the present Edition. 
He has also derived considerable benefit from a German translation of the 
Handbooks executed by Mr. Baedeker, an intelligent bookseller of Coblenz, 
who has performed the part not merely of translator but of a careful Editor, and, 
having visited a large part of Germany, has added greatly to the accuracy and 
value of the work by his own personal observations, the greater part of which 
have been incorporated in this Edition. 

Caution to Travellers. — By a recent Act of Parliament the introduction 
into England of foreign pirated Editions of the works of British authors, in 
which the copyright subsists, is totally prohibited. Travellers will therefore 
bear in mind that even a single copy is contraband, and is liable to seizure at 
the English Custom-house. 

Caution to Innkeepers and others. — The Editor of the Handbooks has 
learned from various quarters that a person or persons have of late been ex- 
torting money from innkeepers, tradespeople, artists, and others, on the Con- 
tinent, under pretext of procuring recommendations and favourable notices 
of them and their establishments in the Handbooks for Travellers. The 
Editor, therefore, thinks proper to warn all whom it may concern, that recom- 
mendations in the Handbooks are not to be obtained by purchase, and that the 
persons alluded to are not only unauthorised by him, but are totally unknown 
to him. All those, therefore, who put confidence in such promises, may rest 
assured that they will be defrauded of their money without attaining their 
object.— 1843. 



A HANDBOOK 



FOR 



TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT; 



BEING A GUIDE THROUGH 



HOLLAND, BELGIUM, PRUSSIA, 

AND 

NORTHERN GERMANY, 



AND 



&long tjje Hin'ne, from $^ollanfc to §bfott?erlanfc ; 



CONTAINING DESCRIPTIONS OF 

THE PRINCIPAL CITIES, THEIR MUSEUMS, PICTURE-GALLERIES, &c. ; 

THE RAILWAYS AND GREAT HIGH ROADS ; 

THE MOST INTERESTING AND PICTURESQUE DISTRICTS ; 

AND THE MOST FREQUENTED BATHS AND 

WATERING-PLACES : 

ALSO, 

DIRECTIONS FOR TRAVELLERS, AND HINTS FOR TOURS. 

A 

WITH AN INDEX MAP, 

A 

AND PLANS OF THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS. 



EIGHTH EDITION, CORRECTED AND AUGMENTED. 



LONDON: 
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 

PARIS : A. W. GALIGNANI AND CO. ; STASSIN AND XAVIER. 
LEIPZIG: LONGMAN. 

1851.' 



./A A 



THE ENGLI 



iTHE LIBRARY] 
JOF CONGRESS! 

Il EDITK5J1&I 01 THE 

IWASBlNflSE^S 



lNDBOOKS for travellers 

ISHED — 



AIX-LA- \ 

CHAPELLE f 
AMSTERDAM 
ANTWERP 
BADEN-BADEN 
BERLIN 
BRUSSELS 



CARLSRUHE 

COBLENTZ 
COLOGNE 

DRESDEN 
FRANKFURT 
GRATZ 
THE HAGUE 
HAMBURG 



-many, 

BY I. D. MAYER ; L. KOHNEN. 

— J. MULLER. 

— MAX. KORNICKER. 

— D. R. MARX. 

— A. DUNCKER. 

— C. MUQUARDT ; KIESS- 

L1NG & CO.; A. DECQ ; 
MICHEL. 

— CREUZBAUER & CO. and 

A. BIELEFELD. 

— BAEDEKER. 

— L. KOHNEN; A. BAEDE- 

KER. 

— ARNOLD. 

— C. JUGEL. 

— DAMIAN & SORGE. 

— VAN STOCKUM. 

— PERTHES, BESSER, & 

MAUKE. 



md, and Belgium, at 



HEIDELBERG 

LEIPZIG 

LUXEMBOURG 

MANNHEIM 

MAYENCE 

MUNICH 



NURNBERG 
PESTH 

PRAGUE 
ROTTERDAM 

STUTTGART 

VIENNA 



In Italy, at 



TOLOGNA 

FLORENCE 

GENOA 

LEGHORN 

LUCCA 

MALTA 

MANTUA 

MILAN 



MODENA 



BY M. RUSCONI, FRERES. 

— JOS. MOLINI. 

— ANTOINE BEUF. 

— ROLANDI. 

— F. BARON. 

— MUIR. 

— NEGRETTI, FRERES. 

— DUMOLARD FRERES ; 

MOLINARI ; F. ARTA- 
RIA & SON ; P. & J. 
VALLARDI; TENDLER 
& SCHAEFER. 

— VINCENZI & ROSSI. 



NAPLES 

NICE 

PALERMO 

PARMA 

PISA 

PERUGIA 
ROME 

SIENNA 

TRIESTE 

TURIN 

VENICE 



In France, at 



AMIENS 

ANGERS 

AVRANCHES 

BAYONNE 

BORDEAUX 

BOULOGNE 

BREST 

CAEN 

CALAIS 

DIEPPE 

DINANT 

DOUAI 

DUNKERQUE 

GRENOBLE 

HAVRE 

LILLE 
LYONS 

MARSEILLES 
METZ 

MONTPELLIER 
MULHOUSE 



MADRID 



AARAU 

BASLE 

BERN 

CONSTANCE 

FREIBURG 

ST. GALLEN 

GENEVA 

LAUSANNE 



ST. PETERS- 1 
BURGH j 



BY CARON. 

— BARASSE'. 
_ ANFRAY. 

— JAYMEBON. 

— CHAUMAS; LAWALLE. 

— WATEL ; MERRIDEW. 

— HEBERT. 

_ VILLENEUVE. 

— RIGAUX CAUX. 
_ MARAIS. 

_ COSTE. a 

— JACQUART ; LEMALE. 

— LEYSCHOCHART. 

— VELLOT ET COMP. 

— COCHARD ; MADAME BER- 

TIN HUE. 

— VANACKERE ; BEGHIN. 

— GIBERTON & BRUN ; 

AYNE' FILS. 

— MADAME CAMOIN. 

— WARION. 

— LEVALLE. 

— RISLER. 



NANCY 
NANTES 

ORLEANS 
PARIS 

PAU 

PERPIGNAN 
REIMS 
ROCHE FORT 
ROUEN 
ST. ETIENNE 
ST. MALO 
ST. QUENTIN 
STRASBOURG 



TOULON 
TOULOUSE 
TOURS 
TROYES 



BY J. C. B. MOHR. 
_ T. O. WEIGEL. 

— BUCK. 

— ARTARIA & FONTAINE. 

— VON ZABERN. 

— LITERARISCH - ARTIST- 

ISCHE ANSTALT & I. 
PALM. 

— SCHRAG. 

— HARTLEBEN & G. HEC- 

KENAST. 

— CALVE. 

— A. BAEDEKER ; H. A. 

KRAMERS. 

— P. NEFF. 

— BRAUMULLER & SETDEL ; 

C. GEROLD, P. ROHR- 
MAN, SCHAUMBURG & 
CO. 



BY CABRLO ATELLI & CO. 

— VISCONTI. 

— CHARLES BEUF. 
_ J. ZANGHIERI. 

_ NISTRI, FRERES ; JOS. 
VANNUCCHI. 

— VINCENZ. BARTELLT. 

_ VENANZIO MONALDINI ; 

M. MERLE. 
_ ONORATO TORRI. 

— FAVARGER. 

— GIANNINI & FIORE ; 

BOCCA; MAR1ETTI. 
_ HERMAN F. MUNSTER. 



BY GONET. 

— GUE'RAUD ; FOREST 

AINE'. 

— GATINEAU ; PESTY. 

— GALTGNANI ; STASSIN ET 

XAVIER. 

— AREES ; AUG. BASSY ; 

LAFON. ^ 

— JULIA FRERES. 

— BRISSART BINET. 

— PENARD. 

— LEBRUMENT. 
_ DE LARUE. 

— HUE. 

— DOLOY. 

— DER1VAUX; TREUTELL 

& WURTZ ; Z. G. GRUC- 
KER. 

— MONGE ET V1LLAMUS. 

— GALLON; H. LEBON. 

— COUSTURIER ; BONTE. 

— LALOY. 



Ill Spain, at 



BY CRO. MONIER. 



| GIBRALTAR BY GEORGE ROWSWELL. 



Iii Switzerland, at 



BY SAUERLAENDER. 

— FR. WALZ. 

— HUBER & CO. 

— GLUCKER. 

— HERDER. 

— HUBER. 

— P. G. LEDOUBLE ; 
ROGIS; MONROE 



DES- 
GEX. 



HIGNOU & CO. ; WEBER. 



LUCERNE BY MEYER. 

MUHLHAUSEN - ENGELMANN 
ROTWEIL - HERDER. 

SCHAFFHAUSEN — gURrER 



SOLEURE 
THUR 

WINTERTHUR 
ZURICH 



REUTER. 

— GRUBENMANN. 

— STEINER. 

— H. FUSSLI & CO. 

LEUTHOLD. 



H. F 



In Russia, at 



BY J. ISSAKOFF ; N. ISSA! 
KOFF; BELLlZARii.- 



MOSCOW 
ODESSA 



BYW. GAUTIER. 
— VILLIETTY. 



In Constantinople, by j. j. wick. 



PREFACE. 



The writer of this volume, having experienced, as every Englishman 
visiting the Continent must have done, the want of any tolerable English 
Guide Book for Europe north of the Alps, was induced, partly for his own 
amusement, partly to assist his friends going abroad, to make copious notes 
of all that he thought worth observation, and of the best modes of tra- 
velling and seeing things to advantage. In the course of repeated journeys 
and of occasional residence in various parts of the Continent, he not only 
traversed beaten routes, but visited many spots to which his countrymen 
rarely penetrate. Thus his materials have largely accumulated ; and in 
the hope that they may render as much service to the public generally as 
he is assured they already have done to private friends, he is now induced 
to put them forth in a printed form. 

The Guide Books hitherto published are for the most part either general 
descriptions compiled by persons not acquainted with the spots, and there- 
fore imperfect and erroneous, or are local histories, written by residents 
who do not sufficiently discriminate between what is peculiar to the place, 
and what is not worth seeing, or may be seen equally well or to greater 
advantage somewhere else. The latter overwhelm their readers with 
minute details of its history " from the most ancient times," and with 
genealogies of its princes, &c. : the former confine themselves to a mere 
catalogue of buildings, institutions, and the like ; after reading which, the 
stranger is as much as ever in the dark as to what really are the curiosities 
of the place. They are often mere reprints of works published many years 
ago, by no means' corrected or brought down to the present time ; and 
whether accurate or not originally, are become, from the mere changes 
which each year produces, faulty and antiquated. 

The writer of the Handbook has endeavoured to confine himself to 
matter-of-fact descriptions of what ought to be seen at each place, and is 
calculated to interest an intelligent English traveller, without bewildering 
his readers with an account of all that may be seen. He has avoided 
chronological details ; and, instead of abridging the records of a town from 
beginning to end, he has selected such local anecdotes as are connected 
with remarkable events which have happened there, or with distinguished 
men who have lived there. He has adopted as simple and condensed a 
style as possible, avoiding florid descriptions and exaggerated superlatives ; 
preferring to avail himself of the descriptions of others, where they ap- 
peared good and correct, to obtruding extracts from his own journals. 
Whenever an author of celebritjr, such as Scott, Byron, Rogers, or Sou- 
they, has described a place, he has made a point of extracting the passage, 
knowing how much the perusal of it on the spot, where the works them- 
selves are not to be procured, will enhance the interest of seeing the objects 
described. 



ABBREVIATIONS, &c, USED IN THE HANDBOOK. 

The points of the Compass are marked simply by the letters N. S. E. "W. 

(rt.) right, (I.) left. The right bank of a river is that which lies on the right 
hand of a person whose back is turned towards the source, or the quarter from 
which the current descends. 

m. = mile ; B. or Bte. = Boute ; St. or Stat. = Bailway Station. 

When miles are spoken of without any descriptive epithet, English statute 
miles are to be understood. 

The names of inns precede the description of every place (often in a paren- 
thesis), because the first information needed by a traveller is where to lodge. 
The best inns, as far as they can be determined, are placed, first. 

Instead of designating a town by the vague words "large" or "small," the 
amount of the population, according to the latest census, is almost invariably 
stated, as presenting a more exact scale of the importance and size of the place. 

In order to avoid repetition, the Routes through the larger states of Europe 
are preceded by a chapter of preliminary information ; and, to facilitate reference 
to it, each division or paragraph is separately numbered. 

Every Route has a number, corresponding with the figures attached to the 
Route on the Map, which thus serves as an index to the Book ; at the same time 
that it presents a tolerably exact view of the great high roads of Europe, and of 
the course of public conveyances. 

The Map is to be placed at the end of the book. The Plans of Amsterdam, 
Antwerp, Brussels, Cologne, Hamburg, Berlin, Dresden, and Frankfurt on the 
Main, are to be placed respectively opposite to the commencement of the descrip- 
tions of those towns. 

N.B. — The information given in the following pages respecting steamers, 
railroads, exhibitions, &c, applies to the usual summer travelling season. There 
are usually fewer trains and steamers, and shorter times of admission, during 
the end of the autumn, the winter, and early spring. These changes are easily 
ascertained on the spot : it is only necessary to caution the traveller respecting 
them. 



INTRODUCTION, 

CONTAINING INFORMATION WHICH MAY BE OF USE BEFORE 

LEAVING ENGLAND. 






a. Maxims and Hints for Travelling. — b. Language. — c. Money ; Circular 
Notes. — d. Passports. — e. Couriers. — f. Carriage. — g. Some Requisites for 
Travelling, — h. Steamboats from England. — i. Landing on the Continent ; 
Custom-houses and Commissionaires. — k. British Custom-house; Transmis- 
sion of Goods from the Continent to England.—-]. Inns and Innkeepers. — 
m. English Church on the Continent. — n. A few Skeleton Tours. — o. Tables 
of the Relative Value of the Money of Germany compared with that of Eng- 
land and France. 

a. MAXIMS AND HINTS FOR TRAVELLING. 

" Travel in the younger sort is a part of education ; in the elder, a part 
of experience. He that travelleth into a country before he hath some en- 
trance into the language, goeth to school and not to travel. That young men 
travel under some tutor, or grave servant, I allow well ; so that he he 
such a one that hath the language, and hath been in the country before ; 
whereby he may be able to tell them what things are worthy to be seen in 
the country where they go, what acquaintances they are to seek, what 
exercise or discipline the place yieldeth ; for else young men shall go 
hooded, and look abroad little. The things to be seen and observed are 
the courts of princes, especially when they give audience to ambassadors ; 
the courts of justice while they sit and hear causes ; and so of consistories 
ecclesiastic ; the churches and monasteries, with the monuments which are 
therein extant ; the walls and fortifications of cities and towns- : and so 
the havens and harbours, antiquities and ruins, libraries, colleges, disputa- 
tions, and lectures, where any are ; shipping and navies ; houses and gar- 
dens of state and pleasure near great cities ; armouries, arsenals, magazines, 
exchanges, burses, warehouses ; exercises of horsemanship, fencing, train- 
ing of soldiers, and the like ; comedies, such whereunto the better sort of 
persons do resort ; treasuries of jewels and robes ; cabinets and rarities ; 
and, to conclude, whatsoever is memorable in the places where they gO' ; 
after all which the tutors or servants ought to make diligent inquiry. As 
for triumphs, masks, feasts, weddings, funerals, capital executions, and 
such shows, men need not to be put in mind of them ; yet are they not to 
be neglected. If you will have a young man to put his travel into a little 
room, and in a short time to gather much, this you must do : first, as was 
said, he must have some entrance into the language before he goeth ; then 
he must have such a servant or tutor as knoweth the country, as was 

a S ' 



X a. MAXIMS AND HINTS 






likewise said : let him carry with him also some card or book describing 
the country where he travelleth, which will be a good key to his inquiry ; 
let him keep also a diary ; let him not stay long in one city or town — more 
or less as the place deserveth, but not long ; nay, when he stayeth in one 
city or town, let him change his lodging from one end and part of the 
town to another, which is a great adamant of acquaintance ; let him 
sequester himself from the company of his countrymen, and diet in such 
places where there is good company of the nation where he travelleth ; let 
him, upon his removes from one place to another, procure recommenda- 
tion to some person of quality residing in the place whither he removeth, 
that he may use his favour in those things he desireth to see or* know — 
thus he may abridge his travel with much profit. As for the acquaintance 
which is to be sought in travel, that which is most of all profitable is 
acquaintance with the secretaries and employed men of ambassadors ; for 
so in travelling in one country he shall suck the experience of many : let 
him also see and visit eminent persons in all kinds which are of great 
name abroad, that he may be able to tell how the life agreeth with the 
fame : for quarrels, they are with care and discretion to be avoided ; they 
are commonly for mistresses, healths, place, and words ; and let a man 
beware how he keepeth company with choleric and quarrelsome persons, 
for they will engage him into their own quarrels. When a traveller 
returneth home, let him not leave the countries where he hath travelled 
altogether behind him ; but maintain a correspondence by letters with 
those of his acquaintance which are of most worth : and let his travel 
appear rather in his discourse than in his apparel or gesture ; and in his 
discourse let him be rather advised in his answers than forward to tell 
stories : and let it appear that he doth not change his country manners for 
those of foreign parts, but only prick in some flowers of that he hath 
learned abroad into the customs of his own country." — Lord Bacon. 
Essays, XIX. 



11 Ours is a nation of travellers ; and no wonder, when the elements, 
air, water, fire, attend at our bidding, to transport us from shore to shore ; 
when the ship rushes into the deep, her track the foam as of some mighty 
torrent, and, in three hours or less, we stand gazing and gazed at among a 
foreign people. None want an excuse. If rich, they go to enjoy ; if poor, 
to retrench ; if sick, to recover ; if studious, to learn ; if learned, to relax 
from their studies. But whatever they may say, whatever they may 
believe, they go for the most part on the same errand ; nor will those who 
reflect think that errand an idle one. 

" Almost all men are over-anxious. No sooner do they enter the world 
than they lose that taste for natural and simple pleasures, so remarkable 
in early life. Every hour do they ask themselves what progress they have 
made in the pursuit of wealth or honour ; and on they go as their fathers 
went before them, till, weary and sick at heart, they look back with a 
sigh of regret to the golden time of their childrfood. 

" Now travel, and foreign travel more particularly, restores to us in a 
great degree what we have lost. When the anchor is heaved, we double 
down the leaf, and for a while at least all effort is over. The old cares 
are left clustering round the old objects, and at every step, as we proceed, 



FOR TRAVELLING. XI 

the slightest circumstance amuses and interests. All is new and strange. 
We surrender ourselves, and feel once again as children. Like them, we 
enjoy eagerly ; like them, when we fret, we fret only for the moment : 
and here the resemblance is very remarkable ; for if a journey has its 
pains as well as its pleasures (and there is nothing unmixed in the world), 
the pains are no sooner over than they are forgotten, while the pleasures 
live long in the memory. 

" Nor is it surely without another advantage. If life be short, not so 
to many of us are its days and its hours. When the blood slumbers in the 
veins, how often do we wish that the earth would turn faster on its axis, 
that the sun would rise and set before it does, and, to escape from the 
weight of time, how many follies, how many crimes are committed ! Men 
rush on danger, and even on death. Intrigue, play, foreign and domestic 
broil, such are their resources ; and, when these things fail, they destroy 
themselves. 

" Now, in travelling, we multiply events, and innocently. We set out, 
as it were, on our adventures ; and many are those that occur to us, 
morning, noon, and night. The day we come to a place which we have 
long heard and read of, — and in Italy we do so continually, — it is an era 
in our lives ; and from that moment the very name calls up a picture. 
How delightfully, too, does the knowledge flow in upon us, and how fast !' 
Would he who sat in a corner of his library, poring over his books and 
maps, learn more or so much in the time, as he who, with his eyes and his 
heart open, is receiving impressions all day long from the things them- 
selves? How accurately do they arrange themselves in our memory,— 
towns, rivers, mountains ; and in what living colours do we recai the 
dresses, manners, and customs of the people ! Our sight is the noblest of all 
our senses, — ' It fills the mind with most ideas, converses with its objects 
at the greatest distance, and continues longest in action without being 
tired.' Our sight is on the alert when we travel ; and its exercise is then 
so delightful that we forget the profit in the pleasure. 

" Like a river that gathers, that refines as it runs, — like a spring that 
takes its course through some rich vein of mineral, — we improve, and im- 
perceptibly — nor in the head only, but in the heart. Our prejudices leave 
us one by one. Seas and mountains are no longer oxir boundaries ; we 
learn to love, and esteem, and admire beyond them. Our benevolence 
extends itself with our knowledge. And must we not return better 
citizens than we went ? For the more we become acquainted with the in- 
stitutions of other countries, the more highly must we value our own." — 
Samuel Rogers* 



" Even of those who wish to profit by travelling there are many who 
do not sufficiently consider that, to see and hear with understanding, they 
should come provided with some other stores besides a purse and a pass- 
port ; and that one who is unacquainted with the language, history, and 
geography of the country through which he is passing, is as incapable of 
gaining information from intercourse with foreigners as if he were deaf or 
dumb. ' Necesse est facere sumptum qui quserit lucrum ;' or, as Johnson 
has well said, ' A man must carry knowledge with him, if he would bring 
home knowledge.' " — /. W. — Quarterly Review. 



Xli a. MAXIMS AND HINTS 

" The enjoyment of travelling, like other pleasures, must be purchased 
at some little expense ; and he whose good humour can be ruffled by every 
petty inconvenience he may chance to encounter had unquestionably better 
remain at home." — Captain Hamilton. 



"■ Travelling may be said to be a state of great pleasure mixed with 
great annoyance ; but by management the former may be much increased, 
and the latter proportionably diminished. 

" Wherever you are, it is good to fall into the customs and habits of the 
place ; for though sometimes they may be a little inconvenient, it is gene- 
rally much more so to run counter to them. Those who have their own 
way never succeed but at much greater cost than success is worth." — 
Walker's Original. 

(i One of the greatest annoyances in travelling is continual exposure to 
imposition ; but this may, by good management, be frequently avoided, 
either altogether or in part, as by bad management it may be greatly in- 
creased. 

<f My observation tells me there is no preventive against these different 
kinds of imposition so sure as a certain quiet composed bearing, indicative 
at once of self-respect, and of consideration for others. 1 have made many 
experiments in the matter, under various circumstances, both in this 
country and abroad, and the result seems to me to be, that by such beha- 
viour you insure greater attention at a lower cost than by any other 
course ; and, having adopted such a course, I think that on the Continent 
you may still be exposed, when actually travelling, to imposition to the 
extent of about ten per cent, upon your expenditure, to which, for com- 
fort's sake, and to avoid the chance of being wrong, which frequently 
happens in small matters, it is wise to submit, without keeping yourself 
in a constant fever and state of distraction from the objects only worthy of 
attention."-- Walker's Original. 



The reflections of Tristram Shandy* on this head are not to be sur- 
passed : — "Yet, notwithstanding all this, and a pistol tinder-box, which 
was, moreover, filched from me at Sienna, and twice that I paid five pauls 
for two hard eggs, once at Eadicofani, and a second time at Capua, — I do 
not think a journey through France or Italy, provided a man keep his 
temper all the way, so bad a tiling as some people would make you be- 
lieve. There must be ups and downs, or how the deuce should we get 
into valleys, where nature spreads so many tables of entertainment ? It is 
nonsense to suppose they will lend you their voitures to be shaken to 
pieces for nothing ; and unless you pay twelve sous for greasing your 
wheels, how should the poor peasant get butter for his bread ? We really 
expect too much ; and for the livre or two above par for your supper and 
bed, at the most they are but one shilling and ninepence halfpenny. 
Who would embroil their philosophy for it ? For Heaven's sake and your 
own pay it — pay it with both hands open !" — Sterne. 

* Quoted in Brookedon's Road Book. 



FOR TRAVELLING. Xlll 

" Not the least important of the requisites for a traveller is the temper 
in which he should undertake to perform his journey. It is not sufficient 
for a pleasant excursion on the Continent that he has money enough to 
meet his expenses. The comfort with which an Englishman — who under- 
stands the word better than any other — is likely to enjoy an excursion in 
lands where the language, manners, and customs are so different from his 
own, will greatly depend upon his carrying with him a ready stock of 
good temper and forbearance, which have more certain currency than gold 
in the purchase of civilities and efforts to please. A man will see more, 
enjoy more, and learn more, by carrying with him his head and heart in 
good travelling trim, than can be obtained by having his pockets full of 
letters of credit, without this necessary state of mind and feelings. It is a 
fact deeply to be regretted, that many vulgar and half-witted Englishmen 
think, if they leave home with money, they can command anything ; that 
it is mean to be civil, and beneath them to feel grateful for any efforts to 
oblige them made by those for whose services they pay. The presumption 
of our countrymen is proverbial on the Continent ; fortunately, the excep- 
tions are numerous, and we are spoken of as an unaccountable people, when 
some men of unquestionable character and fortune display examples of 
suavity and true gentility which cannot be surpassed on earth; the 
foreigner is thus puzzled to know how to estimate our national character. 
It is a vulgar prejudice that all foreigners cheat the English, and that 
caution is necessary to guard against the constant attempts to overreach 
them. That some such characters are met with cannot be denied ; but 
those whose rapacity is thus made to characterise a class have been often 
created by the meanness and prejudices and thoughtless extravagance of 
the travellers themselves. It is a bad feeling to set out with, that you 
must be always on your guard. Custom has established certain charges, 
and any deviation from them is soon detected ; but it too often happens 
that things are demanded by the traveller which are very expensive, or 
difficult to procure ; the charge for these is protested against as extrava- 
gant, though the injustice is entirely on the side of the grumbler. Firm- 
ness in not paying more than what is customary, unless such extraordinary 
trouble has been given, will always succeed ; and good humour will lower 
a bill more readilv than violence." — Brockedon. 



" It may not be useless to inquire why, with good hearts and generally 
ample means, the English should be considered neither generous nor al- 
ways just ; and seldom, we are afraid, agreeable. 

" That a permanent residence on the Continent is injurious to the Eng- 
lish character (in every sense of the word) there cannot be a question. 
But there is another description of our countrymen, the Summer Tourist 
— many of whom, without any intention of doing wrong, contribute in no 
inconsiderable degree to bring us into contempt. 

" It is amongst the great and often-noticed faults of the Englishman in 
a foreign land (and particularly of the class we allude to) that he seems to 
think every man's hand is against him, and that he assimilates himself 
with difficulty to the habits of the people amongst whom he resides. 

" His self-created troubles commence on landing, and follow him like a 
spectre on the road. If the postilions wish to change employers, as is 



XIV a. MAXINS AND HINTS 

customary when they meet a carriage coming in the direction of the sta- 
tion they have left, ihe Englishman generally objects, in the belief that 
something sinister is intended ; and we have heard the sharp l No, no,noV 
from within confirmed by the travelling-servant from without, in an ora- 
cular 'Milord ne change famais,' when it has- been obvious that he must 
have been a gainer by the proposed arrangement. 

" Arrived at his resting-place, he either finds or makes fresh grievances. 
In a German hotel the 1 re are generally beds in the best room ; but this is 
so offensive to the notions of an Englishman, when travelling with his 
family, that he immediately demands, rather than asks for, a sitting-room, 
which the landlord has not to give — and remains in an. ill-humour during 
the remainder of the evening, under the impression that it has been re- 
served for some more honoured guest. This often leads him to quarrel 
with his dinner, to dispute his bill, and to proceed on his journey with 
the conviction that he is a much injured, rather than a most unreasonable, 
person. 

" A great deal of this ill-humour is increased by his being unable to ex- 
plain himself in the language of the country, and by his finding the 
German menials unusually slow at rightly comprehending any other, par- 
ticularly those specimens of the ' unknown tongue ' of which our country- 
men so frequently make use upon the Continent. Indeed, it is surprising 
how some of them are able to get on at all. Not only what Home Tooke 
called the ' wings of speech,' but one half of its body, is often cut off; and 
in place of nouns- and verbs, the medium of communication is reduced to 
mere nouns. 

" On his arrival at his destination he finds that the handsome exterior of 
his hotel is a deception, the rooms it encloses being comparatively small, 
hot, or inconvenient, and, without a single exception, bedrooms or salles 
publiqfues. The table-d'hote is a style of dinner opposed to all his home- 
born notions of comfort or enjoyment. As the meats are carved by the 
attendants, he is teased by being offered dishes for which he has no inclin- 
ation, and sees those he desires to taste vanish from before him — never to 
return. The wines of the country he deems no better than vinegar ; the 
carte presents a list of names that recal no accustomed flavour ; and as 
their prices are as unintelligible as their names, he is puzzled what better 
beverage to select. 

******* 

"It is thus, without any intention of doing wrong, and merely from a 
disregard to the feelings and opinions of others, that many of our country- 
men who go abroad produce so unfavourable and false an impression of the 
national character. If we would follow the sensible advice of Mr. Brocke- 
don, by leaving home with a determination to be pleased — if we would 
submit cheerfully to those petty overcharges which in a summer excursion 
in England we should scarcely notice — if we would fall easily into the 
customs of those around us, and not consider that every stranger who ap- 
proaches us has a sinister intention — if we would believe that habits may 
be endurable though different from our own, and that the laws of a country 
are formed rather for its own regulation than for our annoyance, we should 
more truly enjoy the tours upon which so many thousands are annually 
spent, and make the inhabitants of the Continent more disposed to believe 
that an Englishman is not a particularly disagreeable person. 



FOR TRAVELLING. — b. LANGUAGE. XV 

" It may seem easy to give this advice, and to say, with Master Faith- 
ful, ' Take it coolly V to the traveller who, after a long clay's journey under 
a powerful sun, has to encounter the vexations of a late arrival at a crowded 
hotel, and to perplex his already-troubled brain in vain attempts at making 
himself intelligible, or in resisting what he deems an unreasonable demand ; 
but till we can bear these things with greater equanimity than hitherto, 
and avoid becoming mean because we are apprehensive of being cheated, 
we must be content to acknowledge that there is some (though not a very 
flattering) resemblance in the portraits for which we have sat." — W. M. T. 



" It is particularly desirable to make the necessary arrangements with 
respect to luggage, passports, &c, a little beforehand, and not to be in a 
feverish heat and bustle at the last moment, with the chance of forgetting 
something of importance. Setting out at one's ease is a good omen for the 
rest of the journey. With respect to luggage I recommend the greatest 
compactness possible, as being attended with constant and many advan- 
tages ; and, in general, I think people are rather over-provident in taking 
more than they want. Avoid being intrusted with sealed letters, or carry- 
ing anything contraband, for yourself or others. The necessity for con- 
cealment causes a perpetual anxiety, and has a tendency to destroy that 
openness of manner which is often very serviceable in getting on. Avoid 
also commissions." — Walkers Original. 



Jamque ascendebat collem, qui plurimus urbi 
Imminet, adversasque aspectat desuper arces. — Vjrg. 

The quickest mode of acquiring a good idea of any place is to take the 
earliest opportunity of ascending some tower or eminence, from which there 
is a commanding view, with some person who can point out the most re- 
markable objects. If this is followed up by wandering about without a 
guide, and trusting solely to your own observation, you will be as well 
acquainted with the localities in a few hours as the generality of travellers 
woiild be in a week, or perhaps better, because your impressions will be 
stronger. I do not mean by this to supersede the employment of guides 
in sight-seeing, for they are very useful in saving time. 

b. LANGUAGE. 

The Emperor Charles Y. used to say, that in proportion to the number 
of languages a man knew, he was so many more times a man. No one 
should think of travelling before he has made some acquaintance with the 
language of the country he is about to visit. This should be the first, as 
it is the best, preparation for a journey. It will prove as good as a doubly- 
filled purse to the traveller — as two pair of eyes and one pair of ears — for, 
without it, the one pair he possesses is likely to be of little use. 

The only other advice which will be here offered to the traveller is, that 
he should make up his mind beforehand what line of route he proposes to 
follow, and gain some acquaintance with the country before setting out by 
perusing the best works descriptive of it ; that he should lay in such a 
stock of good temper and patience as is not likely soon to be exhausted, 
whatever mishaps may befal him ; and that he should divest himself, as 



XVI C. MONEY — CIRCULAR NOTES. 

soon as possible, of his prejudices, and especially of the idea of the amazing 
superiority of England above all other countries, in all respects. 

C. MONEY — CIKCULAR NOTES. 

The safest, most economical, and most convenient mode of carrying 
money abroad to meet the expenses of a journey, is in the shape of circular 
notes, which may be obtained from Messrs. Herries, Farquhar, and Co. ; 
Coutts and Co. ; Sir Claude Scott, Bt., and Co., Cavendish Square ; Messrs. 
Twining, in the Strand, near Temple Bar ; and the other chief bankers in 
London : to these may be added the Union Bank. These notes possess 
this great advantage over a common letter of credit, that the bearer may 
receive his money at many different places instead of one fixed spot alone. 
The traveller, having determined how much money he will require for his 
journey,* pays in that sum to the banker, and receives in exchange, with- 
out any charge except the stamp-duty, notes to the same amount, each of 
the value of 20/. or upwards, together with a general letter of order, ad- 
dressed by the house to its foreign agents, which, while it serves to identify 
the bearer, also gives him a claim to their good offices, in case he may need 
them. The letter is addressed to nearly 200 agents and correspondents in 
different parts of Europe, so that, wherever the traveller may be, he cannot 
be very far removed from his supplies. 

" The value of the notes is reduced into foreign money, at the current 
usance course of exchange on London, at the time and place of payment, sub- 
ject to no deduction for commission, or to any other charge whatever, unless 
the payment be required in some particular coin which bears a premium. 
They are drawn to order, and the traveller will naturally, for his own 
security, not endorse them till he receives the money ; besides which, such 
cheques are so concerted with the agents as to render a successful forgery 
of his name very difficult." 

Owing to the number of English who now go abroad, these circular 
letters can no longer be expected to serve as a private letter of introduction ; 
but it is of no slight importance in many cases of difficulty to the stranger, 
in a strange place, to be able to produce a reference to some person of 
respectability ; and the parties to w 7 hom these letters are addressed are 
usually ready to afford friendly advice and assistance to those who need it 

"I have found English Bank-notes very convenient in Belgium and all 
parts of Germany. The exchange is somewhat lower than for Circular 
Notes, but the stamp-duty may be set against the difference." — i?. 

It is advisable to take a small supply of English gold to pay the ex- 
penses in the steamboat and on landing, as well as to guard against run- 
ning short of money in places where circular notes cannot be cashed 
English sovereigns bear a high premium all over Germany, and in shops 
and inns at all the large towns they ought to be taken at their full value 

* It is difficult, if not impossible, to fix with any approach to exactness the average rate of 
expenses of a traveller abroad, as it depends so much on his own habits, and varies in different 
countries; but, unless the expenditure be very lavish, 25s. a day for each individual ought 
fully to cover all the outlay, even when travelling post. On a pedestrian excursion in remot< 
situations, the expenses can hardly exceed from 5s. to 10s. per diem. The cost of living a 
foreign inns is insignificant compared with that of locomotion, and the latter will of course b« 
proportionately increased, when the traveller proceeds rapidly, making long days' journeys 
The above calculation will be near the mark if he travel 70 or 80 English miles a-day ; if hi 
limit himself to 40 or 50, the expense will probably not exceed 20s for each person. 



C. MONEY — CIRCULAR NOTES. d. PASSPORTS. XV'ii 

When the stranger, however, requires to change this or any other money 
into the current coin of the country in which he is travelling, the best plan 
is to take them to some authorised Money-changer (Geld-wechsler, Chan- 
geur de monnaies), who from his profession is necessarily acquainted with 
the rate of exchange (such persons are to be found in almost every town) ; 
and by no means to change them at shops or inns, where, from ignorance or 
fraud, travellers are liable to be cheated. 

Waiters, and clerks of steamboats and railway offices, are too apt to pre- 
sume upon the traveller's ignorance by depreciating the value of Napoleons, 
Sovereigns, and 10-Guilder-pieces, unless the stranger be aware of the true 
value, and demand specifically the full amount of change. 

A traveller, in changing a circular note, will of course take the money 
of the country, provided he intends remaining long enough in it to expend 
the sum taken. If, however, he is only passing through it, the best foreign 
gold coin he can take is Napoleons, as others bear a higher premium. 

The best continental gold coins which persons bound for Germany can 
take with them out of England are probably the Prussian Friedrichs d'or, 
current for their full value throughout the states of the Custom-house 
League. Napoleons pass in France, Switzerland, Italy, and on the imme- 
mediate borders of the Rhine ; in other parts of Germany, though less com- 
mon, they are generally received at little or no loss.* Gold coins are rare in 
many parts of the Continent, and must be purchased at a premium by 
those who require them. A few years back, travellers unwilling to pay 
an agio for gold were often obliged to receive in change for a circular note 
201. worth of silver in crown-pieces, dollars, and the like ; but at present 
the Prussian Bank-notes for 10, 5, and 1 dollar, &c, which are current in 
every part of Germany where the new custom-house system prevails, and 
the Bavarian and Austrian paper currency — both of the same value as the 
metallic currency — relieve the traveller from the necessity of thus loading 
himself. 

The best silver coins to take are, for Northern Germany, Prussian dol- 
lars, since the coins of Prussia (except the small pieces) now pass current 
in all the states which are members of the New Custom-house Union 
(Zollverein) ; and for Southern Germany, Brabant dollars (ecus de Bra- 
bant), which are almost universally current, from Frankfurt and Dresden, 
southwards, florins and half-florins. 

It is essential to be provided with the legal money of the country in 
which you are travelling, if you would avoid delay or extortion at inns, 
post-houses, &c. In merely passing through a country, it is expedient to 
take no more of its coins than are necessary to carry one through it, as 
almost every state has a distinct coinage, and a certain loss must be sus- 
tained by each exchange. 

d. PASSPORTS. 

Of all the penalties at the expense of which the pleasure of travelling 
abroad is purchased, the most disagreeable and most repugnant to English 
feelings is that of submitting to the strict regulations of the continental 

* The anticipated influx of Califbrnian gold seems to have alarmed several of the Continental 
governments. In Holland the gold pieces of 10 and 5 guilders are no longer a legal tender, and 
in Belgium gold coin has been withdrawn from circulation (see$$ 2, 19). Under these cir- 
cumstances the traveller hal belter take bank notes that are current in the country he intends 
visiting. 



xviii d. passports. 

police, and especially to the annoyance of bearing a passport. It is also 
often a source of great inconvenience in causing unwished-for delays. As 
tins, however, is a matter of necessity, from which there is no exemption 
(no one being allowed to travel on the Continent without a passport), it is 
better to submit with a good grace. By a little care and attention to this 
matter at first, the traveller may spare himself a world of vexation and 
inconvenience in the end. 

A passport for the subjects of continental states— as has been well ex- 
plained by a writer in the Times — is " a legitimation or official certificate 
of the identity of the individual who carries it. Such a document there is 
no official machinery in England for issuing. In Germany the district 
police keeps a register of every man, and he cannot move without his 
' papers,' his ' legitimation.' Granting them is then no part of the duty of 
the Foreign Minister, unless the person may be on a Government mission. 
It is necessary clearly to understand the great difference between the con- 
tinental importance of a ' pass,' and the value we attach to it. With us it 
is but a larger kind of turnpike ticket, which proves nothing except that 
the holder has made his way so far on his journey, and is only thought 
useful inasmuch as it may clear him through the next gate. To a German 
the pass is the proof of his existence, and the only title he has to live and 
move unmolested by the police. Without it the law does not recognise 
him, he falls into the rubric of vagabonds, thieves, and fugitives from 
justice, of whom everything dangerous, from arson to regicide, may be 
expected. A German without his ' legitimation ' in his pocket, therefore, 
feels like an assassin, who at any moment may feel the gripe of the police 
on his collar. An Englishman believes (erroneously on the continent) that 
his presence in the shape of five feet nine of respectability on any spot of 
the earth's surface is proof enough at least that he must once have been born 
and had a name, and that nobody has charged him with swindling or theft 
is equally a proof that the police have nothing to do with him. He there- 
fore cares little for his passport, neglects the official forms, forgets to have 
it vised, cannot imagine why such a fuss is made about nothing, and does 
not scruple even to abuse any functionary who may interfere with him — 
in innocent ignorance that even mere impoliteness to any employ^ is pun- 
ishable with fine or imprisonment, as ' insulting a deputed officer of the 
Crown in the discharge of his duties.' A German cannot forget his 
1 legitimation,' and all belonging to it, while it is equally difficult to get 
an Englishman to remember it. More than half the embarrassments our 
countrymen get into are caused by their own neglect. Perhaps impressing 
on their minds the idea that without ' papers' they are, in the ' eye of the 
law,' on the continent, vagabonds, thieves, and suspected persons, may 
induce them to pay more attention to those instruments. They too often 
only get a glimpse of the truth when they come into collision with the 
police/' — Times. 

As a general rule, the utmost care should be taken of the passport, since 
the loss of it will subject the stranger to much trouble, and may cause 
him to be placed under the surveillance of the police. It should always 
be carried about the person, as it is liable to be constantly called for ; and, 
to preserve it from being worn out, which it is likely to be from friction in 
the pocket, and being thumbed by the horny fingers of so many police 
agents and gensdarmes at each successive vise, it is convenient to have it 



d. PASSP0RT3. xix 

bound tip in a pocket-booh* with blank leaves to receive signatures when 
the vacant space on the passport itself is covered. 

Before leaving England it is necessary to obtain a passport, which is 
generally procured from the minister of the country in which the traveller 
intends to land ; and it is very advisable to have it also vise, or counter- 
signed, by the ministers of those countries through which he proposes 
afterwards to pass. For instance, if he be going up the Rhine to Frank- 
furt, and intend to land at Rotterdam, or any other Dutch port, he may 
obtain a passport from the Dutch consul. If he go by Calais, he may 
get a French passport ; if by Ostend, a Belgian ; or he may obtain a 
British consul's passport at any of the foreign towns or seaports where 
our consuls reside. A Prussian passport, or one bearing a Prussian 
minister's or consul's signature, procures admittance for the bearer, without 
delay or difficulty, at any part of the Prussian frontier. The same rule of 
obtaining a signature of a minister should also be observed before entering 
the states of Austria — Russia — Bavaria — France — Holland — Belgium. With 
many it is indispensable ; with all it is advisable. Travellers in the Low 
Countries, Belgium, and Germany, are not much troubled about their pass- 
port, but it is not the less indispensable ; the stranger who is found without 
one will get into trouble. — Nobody can take his place in a diligence or 
hire post-horses without one. 

The usual process of obtaining a passport from an ambassador or 
minister is to address a written or verbal application to his secretary, 
stating the name of the applicant. This must be left, one day in advance, 
at the house or office of the embassy. The applicant must appear in person 
the following day, when his passport will be filled up and delivered to him, 
without fee, by the ambassador of Belgium. A shilling, properly admi- 
nistered to the porter at the door, will often materially shorten the time 
during which the applicant is generally compelled to kick his heels in the 
ambassador's ante-room. Persons residing in the country, or in provincial 
towns of England, may obtain a passport from the foreign ministers in 
London, upon the application of the mayor or magistrate of their place of 
residence, accompanied by a statement of their age, destination, &c, as 
detailed above. 

The different members of a family can have their names included in one 
passport, but friends travelling together had better provide themselves 
with distinct passports. Male servants should also have separate pass- 
ports, distinct from their masters'. This, however, adds something to the 
expense of having the passports vise, especially in Italy. 

N.B. — The signature which the bearer of a passport must attach to it 
when it is delivered to him ought to be written as clearly and distinctly as 
possible, that it may be easily read by the numerous functionaries through 
whose hands it is destined to pass, who are sometimes half an hour in 
deciphering an ill-written name, while the owner is wasting his patience 
at the length of the scrutiny. By this slight precaution the loss of many 
a quarter of an hour may be saved. 

Much delay and inconvenience may also be avoided by causing the full 
description of the person to be inserted in the passport at once ; the want 
of it will excite suspicion in some foreign passport offices, or even subject 
the bearer to arrest. 

* Such pocket-books are made by Lee, 440, West Strand, and kept in readiness by him. 



XX d. PASSPORTS : FRENCH AND BELGIAN, PRUSSIAN, AUSTRIAN. 

Besides the ambassadors, the consuls of the different foreign powers issue 
or sign passports at their offices in the city, for which a charge of 5, 6, or 
7 shillings is made. The consuls deliver their passports at once, without 
requiring that the application should be made the day before ; their offices 
are also open earlier than the ambassadors', usually from 10 or 11 to 4 ; 
thus much time is saved, which with many will be more than an equivalent 
for the payment. 

French avid Belgian Passport. 

French passports are issued immediately, for the sum of 5s., at the 
General Consulate office only, No. 47, King William Street, London 
Bridge ; Belgian, at the Belg. Consul's office, King William Street, fee 65. 
Passports are issued gratuitously by the Belgian minister, 9a Weymouth 
Street, Portland P]ace, on the day after the first application has been 
made for them. Application to be made between 12 and 3 ; the passport 
may be obtained next day between 11 and 2. Either of these passports 
ought to be countersigned by the minister of the other country, provided 
the traveller is about to pass through it. English travellers about to enter 
Austria had better exchange French or Belgian passports (if they have 
them) for that of a British minister residing at any foreign court. 

Prussian Passport. 

The Prussian minister, residing in London, will not give passports to 
Englishmen, unless personally known, or especially recommended to him. 
Passports delivered to Englishmen, either by the English Government, or 
the other diplomatic missions in London, must be vise by some Prussian 
consular minister, either in Great Britain or on the Continent, previously 
to entering the Prussian dominions. Passports are still required for 
travelling in Prussia. The Prussian Consul-general issues passports at his 
office, 106, Fenchurch Street, every day from 10 to 4, upon payment of 
7s., and when two of a family are included 10s. Upon the whole, the 
passport of the Prussian Consul is a very respectable and efficient one for 
the English traveller about to proceed to Germany and the Khine, through 
Holland, or Belgium, or the Hanse Towns. 

Austrian Passport. 

The Austrian ambassador in London will neither give a passport to an 
Englishman, nor countersign any, except that issued by the British 
Secretary of State. 

For the traveller bound to any part of the Austrian dominions, or to 
Italy, the Austrian signature is absolutely indispensable, and it is there- 
fore a matter of necessity to obtain it, if not in London, at one of the great 
capitals on the Continent — at Paris, Brussels, the Hague, Frankfurt, 
Carlsruhe, Berlin, Dresden, Berne in Switzerland, or Munich — where an 
Austrian minister resides. The traveller must even go out of his way to 
secure it, or else when he arrives at the Austrian frontier he will either be 
compelled to retrace his steps, or will be kept under the surveillance of 
the police until his passport is sent to the nearest place where an Englisl 
and Austrian ambassador reside, to be authenticated by the one and signed 
by the other. 

An Englishman's passport ought also to be signed by his own minister 
at the first English Embassy. 



d. passports : sec. of state's — e. couriers. xxi 



British Secretary of State's Passport. 



The English Secretary of State's passport may be obtained at the 
Foreign Office in London (since February, 1851) at a reduced fee of 7s. 6d. 
It is issued between the hours of 12 and 4, on the day following that on 
which the application for the passport has been received at the Foreign 
Office. Further regulations provide that — 

" Passports are granted to persons who are either known to the Secre- 
tary of State or recommended to him by some person who is known to 
him, or upon the written application of a banking firm established in 
London. 

" Passports cannot be sent by the Foreign Office to persons already 
abroad. Such persons should apply to the nearest British mission or con- 
sulate. 

" Foreign Office passports must be countersigned at the mission, or at 
some consulate, in England, of the G overnment of the country which the 
bearer of the passport intends to visit. 

" A Foreign Office passport granted for one journey maybe used for any 
subsequent journey, if countersigned afresh by the ministers or consuls of 
the countries which the bearer intends to visit." 

It is a mistake to suppose that the Foreign Office passport is exempted 
from any of the rules which apply to all other passports. The chief 
privilege attending it is that the bearer may obtain the Austrian Ambassa- 
dor's signature before leaving England, and can thus obviate delay and 
trouble. 

It possesses few, if any, advantages over the common passports pro- 
perly vise. It is taken away on entering France, like any other passport, 
and the same in Russia ; indeed, for a traveller in Eussia it is totally 
useless. » 

A Secretary of State's passport remains in force at least 5 } r ears. The 
Austrian embassy will sometimes not viser a Foreign Office passport 
signed by a minister no longer in office. 

Passport of Consuls at British Seaports and Foreign Seaports. 

Her Britannic Majesty's consuls abroad, at Calais, Boulogne, Ostend, 
Antwerp, Rotterdam, Hamburg, &c, can give a passport to a British sub- 
ject (charge 5 fir. 50 c.) ; so also can the consuls of France residing at 
Dover, Brighton, Southampton, and other British seaports ; but it is prudent 
to provide one in London before setting out. 

The writer has been thus minute and precise in his details respecting 
the passport, because he knows how essential it is to the traveller to have 
this precious document en regie, and he has experienced the serious incon- 
venience to which those who are not aware of the necessary formalities are 
constantly exposed. 

e. COURIERS. 

It is notorious that English servants taken for the first time to the Con- 
tinent, and ignorant of every language but their own, are worse than use- 
less — they are an encumbrance. The traveller who requires a servant at 
any rate had better take a foreign one ; but he who speaks the language of the 
Continent himself, and will submit to the details of the coinage and the post- 



xxn e. couriers. 

books, may save himself much expense by dispensing with a servant 
altogether. Thus the knowledge of language becomes a source of eco- 
nomy. A courier, however, though an expensive luxury, is one which 
conduces much to the ease and pleasure of travelling, and few who can 
afford one will forego the advantage of his services. He relieves his mas- 
ter from much fatigue of body and perplexity of mind, in unravelling the 
difficulties of long bills and foreign moneys, sparing his temper the trials 
it is likely to endure from disputes with innkeepers, postmasters, and the 
like. A courier, if clever and experienced, and disposed to consult the 
comfort of his employer, is a most useful person. His duties consist in 
preceding the carriage at each stage, to secure relays of post-horses on those 
routes where horses are scarce, or where the number of travellers ren- 
ders it difficult to procure them. This, however, is seldom necessary, 
except where the travelling party is very large, occupying several carriages, 
and requiring 6 or 8 horses, which may take an hour or two to collect at 
a post-house, and must often be brought in from the fields. He must 
make arrangements for his employer's reception at inns where he intends 
to pass the night ; must secure comfortable rooms, clean and well-aired 
beds, and order meals to be prepared, fires to be lighted, taking care that 
his master is called in proper time, and that the post-horses are ordered at 
the right hour. He ought to have a thorough knowledge of everything 
that relates to the care of a carriage ; he should examine it at the end of 
each day's journey to ascertain whether it requires any repairs, which 
should be executed before setting out ; and it is his fault if any accident 
occur en route from neglect of such precautions. He should superintend 
the packing and unpacking of the luggage, should know the number of 
parcels, &c, and be on his guard against leaving anything behind. It falls 
to the courier to pay innkeepers, postmasters, and postboys, and he ought 
to take care that his master is not overcharged. Besides this, he performs 
all the services of waiting and attendance, cleaning and brushing clothes, 
&c. He ought to write as well as speak the language of the countries he 
is about to visit, so as to be able to communicate by letter with innkeepers, 
when it is necessary to bespeak accommodation beforehand ; and he is not 
perfectly accomplished unless he have a smattering of the art of cookery. 

From what has been stated above, it will be perceived that the master 
is greatly at the mercy of the courier, and that he ought therefore by 
all means to be " sharply looked after." As a further caution, we 
quote what follows from the Roadbook of Mr. Brockedon, an excellent 
guide. 

" The faults of many of the couriers who offer their services to travellers 
are numerous and serious : though the usual wages of ten or twelve Xapo- 
leons a month, to find themselves, be paid them, they live at the cost of 
the traveller ; that is, they pay nothing at the inns ; but if this were all, it 
would be unimportant ; the fact is, that they regularly sell their families 
to certain innkeepers, to whom they are known on the road, and de- 
mand a gratuity proportioned to the number and stay of their party : this 
is recharged in some form from the traveller. On the road, if a dishonest 
courier pay the postilions, he pockets something at each relay, generally 
from their remuneration, which in the course of a long journey becomes 
of a serious amount. The author, after bavins; long; submitted to svs- 
tematic and customary peculation until it passed endurance, found, from the 



e. COURIERS. XX111 

hour that he parted with his courier that the bills at the inns fell above 
20 per cent, without previous! arrangement ; and that the postilions were 
grateful and pleased for less than the courier said he had paid for their 
services when they were dissatisfied. Upon the author's remarking upon 
the difference in the amount of the bills at the inns when he had a courier, 
and when he travelled with his family without one, he was assured by the 
innkeeper of Mayence, where the difference was first observed, that he hated 
and feared the couriers as a body, and infinitely preferred receiving a 
family without one ; for, after paying the courier's usual demand for 
bringing a family to his hotel, he was obliged to charge it in the amount 
; of the bill, which often proved unsatisfactory to travellers ; that if he re- 
fused to comply with such demands of the couriers, as they always pre- 
ceded the arrival of the families they travelled with, they took them to 
other hotels, and reported to the association of couriers, which exists in. 
Paris and other cities, the innkeeper who had refused compliance with 
their demands, and they punish him by uniformly avoiding to recommend 
his house, or take there the families with whom they travel. However 
well a courier may know a city or place, he never acts as valet de place, 
unless his family make purchases, when he never fails to be in attendance, 
to receive, afterwards, from the tradesman, a percentage which he claims as 
agent, and which is charged indirectly in the bill. 

" It will scarcely occur once in the course of a week's journey that the 
peculiar service of a courier will be felt, that of obtaining relays of horses 
to be in readiness at the post station by the time the family arrive ; and he 
will rarely have opportunities of securing the progress of his employers 
by anticipating other travellers ; and when he does, it is by no means an 
uncommon thing for him to take a bribe to forego his claim to the horses 
which he has ordered. Couriers are often smugglers, who conceal contra- 
band articles about the carriage, and thus risk the property and liberty of 
their employers. There are, however, honest couriers ; and when their ser- 
vices can be obtained they are truly valuable, especially to those who 
have never travelled before." — Brockedon's Roadbook to Naples. 

" It is manifest from the duties of a courier that he has the temptation 
and opportunity of being dishonest ; but so has every servant in whom con- 
fidence is placed, and to whom property is intrusted ; but it is as repugnant 
to our feelings, as it is at variance with our experience, to condemn couriers 
or any other class. There are honest and faithful couriers, who not only 
protect their employers from the imposition of others, but vigilantly and 
indefatigably perform their duty in other respects. For the sake of servant 
and master we advise travellers to settle their courier's accounts regularly 
and at short intervals, and to examine minutely the book of expenses. 
We have no hesitation in saying that, especially to a family, a good 
courier is invaluable in saving time, trouble, money, and loss of temper to 
his master." — Dr. S. 

There can be no doubt that the couriers exact from the innkeepers a 
percentage on the amount of their bills, and often insist upon their raising 
their charges on this account. They likewise expect to be fed gratui- 
tously. 

Travellers going post in any part of Germany may enjoy all the advan- 
tages of an avant courier, without the trouble or expense, by availing 
themselves of the Laufzettel. (See § 34.) 



XXIV /. CARRIAGE. 

The usual wages of a courier while travelling are from SI. to 107. a 
month, — if he he engaged for less than 2 months, he will prohahly expect 
121. ; if his services he retained while his master is stationary in a place, 
he ought not to expect more than 61. supposing his engagement to last 
for ten or twelve months. 

Couriers and travelling servants, male and female, may be heard of at 
Lee's, 440, Strand ; at the Carved Lion, South-street, Grosvenor-square ; 
at No. 7, Old Compton-street, Soho ; and at No. 15, Arundel-street, Pan- 
ton-square, &c. &c, London ; at Calais, Paris, Geneva, and most of the 
great capitals of Europe. They ought on no account to he engaged with- 
out producing unexceptionable testimonials as to character, such as would 
be required of any other servant. A less expensive, and sometimes very 
honest, domestic may often be found among the Swiss, Piedmontese, and 
Germans, in continental cities, but caution must be exercised in receiving 
such. In some countries of the Continent, such as Norway and Sweden, 
Russia, Poland, and Hungary, a servant acquainted with their languages 
is quite essential to a traveller's comfort. In a large part of Germany the 
French language is literally useless. 

/. CARRIAGE . 

Within the last few years the rapid formation and ramifications of rail- 
ways through Belgium and Germany, in combination with the extension 
of steam navigation on all the rivers, has operated as an argument against 
taking a carriage from England. With such expeditious and comfortable 
modes of travelling at command, it is far better for those who study 
economy at all to hire vehicles from place to place when required, or for a 
fixed period, from a foreign coachmaker, than to carry a private carriage for 
several hundred miles by steamboat or railroad, as a piece of luggage, 
without deriving any benefit from it, — with the heavy expense of transport 
by water and land, added to that of conveying it between the railway 
stations and the inns. 

On the other hand, however, notwithstanding the increasing number of 
railroads, there is still some advantage where four or more persons are 
travelling together, and for any considerable distance, in taking a carriage. 
Owing to the very high charges, and strict regulations about luggage, the 
expense to such a party is not much increased thereby, as the whole party 
may occupy the carriage, paying only 2nd, or in some cases (e. g. Prague 
to Vienna) 3rd class fare ; while the luggage, being contained in the car- 
riage, creates no additional charge. If such a party, not having a carriage, 
travel in 1st class places, and take a good deal of luggage, — and English 
people usually do both, — their transit expenses will probably be as great 
without as with a carriage. Some trouble, too, is saved in passing cus- 
tom-houses by having a carriage, provided there is good management. 

Travellers who value comfort and appearances, and do not mind expense, 
should by all means take an English carriage. Those made in London 
are far more to be depended on than any continental carriage, both for 
ease and durability. An excellent carriage may be hired of a London 
maker for 101. a month, and, when the journey lasts for three months, at 
81. a month. The coachmaker undertakes to defray the cost of all repairs 
rendered necessary by wear and tear, though not those caused by accidents, 
while the journey lasts. 



/. CARRIAGE. XXV 

As a measure of economy, where persons intend to travel post, it is 
desirable to save the expense of freight in steam-boats, sometimes amount- 
ing to 101. or 121. to and fro, and of duty in passing through France (see 
p. 102 : — in Belgium no duty is charged), as well as to avoid the injury 
which a private carriage will inevitably sustain from a journey on the 
Continent. In this case it is expedient either to hire a carriage at the 
foreign seaport at which the traveller lands, or to purchase one of foreign 
make. A great variety of secondhand carriages are usually kept either for 
hire or sale by the innkeepers at Calais, Rotterdam, Hamburg, &c. &c. ; but 
it must be confessed that they are usually sorry, broken-down vehicles, 
and they are let at a rate not much less than the English, viz. about SI. a 
month. Persons engaging a carriage in this manner for a journey are 
generally obliged to retrace their steps to the same place in order to return 
it. If, however, they purchase the secondhand carriage, they may generally 
dispose of it at the end of their travels, and gain back a part of the sum 
paid. 

The places upon the Continent where the best carriages are built are 
Paris, Vienna, Brussels, Aix-la-Chapelle, and Frankfurt ; they may be 
purchased new for about one-third less than in England. They are neither 
so elegant nor so well finished as the English, but are still good serviceable 
carriages for travelling. 

The best form of carriage for a small party is the Caleche, or Britzka, 
which, by the new mode of fitting up with leather curtains or moveable 
windows, may be made to hold four persons inside in case of rainy weather. 
A chariot (batarde) is not common on the Continent, except among 
English, who import them from their own country. It requires more 
horses to draw it than a light caleche, even though holding the same 
number of persons. 

A driving seat in front may be regarded as essential in a travelling 
carriage intended for the Continent, since in many countries the expense of 
one horse may be saved if the postboy drives from the box ; if he rides, the 
postmaster is authorized to add an extra horse for him to ride on, and this 
even in the case of a britzka holding only two persons. 

In 1837 a light but strongly built English caleche without a perch, 
weighing only about nine or ten cwt., though it held four persons, travelled 
over a large part of the Continent with only two horses. The baggage 
was not heavy, and the postboy, when required, could drive from the 
seat. 

The servant or courier should be desired to cause the wheels to be 
greased every morning, and should even be present to see that it is done. 
Special attention should be given that the linchpins are properly replaced : 
foreign ostlers are very careless on this head ; and in France it seems as 
though they were often purposely extracted to give employment to the 
smith, or perhaps only to make mischief. A box should be attached to 
the carriage, containing a wrench for taking off the carriage wheels, a 
number of extra linchpins, and pieces of tin to fasten the linchpins. 
Candles should be placed in the lamps ; they are often called for on an 
emergency, and in situations where they are not to be got in a hurry. 
Not only should a drag (shoe) be taken, or two of them for a heavy car- 
riage, but also a chain with a hook, to attach to a spoke of the wheel, along 
with the drag, so that, in case of its failing, the traveller has a second 

[n. g.] b 



XXvi g. REQUISITES FOR TRAVELLING. 

safeguard to depend on. The drag should be of large size, and of very 
well tempered metal : an ordinary drag, such as is made on the Continent, 
will be worn out in half an hour in descending the interminable declivities 
of one of the great Alpine passes. Wheels with patent boxes are not 
understood on the Continent, and, if they should go wrong, could with 
difficulty be repaired ; thus common axles are preferable, unless with a 
servant who understands perfectly the management of the others. 

When a journey of only a few weeks is meditated, such as a tour up the 
Khine and back, it is not worth while to take a carriage, now that the 
extension of railroads and steamers affords such facilities for public 
travelling. 

g. REQUISITES FOR TRAVELLING. 

On all occasions it is desirable to have as little baggage as possible. 
But this is more especially the case on the Belgian and German Railroads. 
11 Passengers are allowed to retain parcels which are not too large to go 
under the seat of the carriages ; all larger articles are taken from them, and 
the trouble, time, anxiety, and expense, which are saved by having only a 
bag which may be thus stowed away and carried in the hand, are incal- 
culable."— P. H. 

" Those ladies who take an interest in mountain scenery, or excursions 
from the high road, will find great advantage in a saddle constructed by 
Whippy, in North Audley Street. The crutch is separable, for the con- 
venience of packing. The girths, crupper, &c, are so made as to fit horse 
or donkey. The whole packs into an oil-cloth bag, which may be attached 
to any part of the carriage. To any person who has been in the habit of 
riding, this pad will be found more convenient than even the saddles made 
at Chamounix expressly for steep and rugged mule tracks. I have never 
found any difficulty in procuring animals to ride, but on no occasion, 
except at Chamounix, have I been able to procure a woman's saddle." — 
W. B. B. 

On crossing frontiers, as between Verviers and Aix-la-Chapelle, no 
parcels are allowed to remain in the carriages with the passengers. 

The following hints are principally addressed to those who intend to 
make pedestrian journeys. 

The shoes, or buttoned boots, ought to be double-soled, provided with 
hobnails, such as are worn in shooting in England, and without iron heels, 
which are dangerous, and liable to slip in walking over rocks ; three rows 
of nails are better : the Aveight of a shoe of this kind is counterbalanced by 
the effectual protection afforded to the feet against sharp rocks and loose 
stones, which cause contusions, and are a great source of fatigue and pain. 
They should be so large as not to pinch any part of the foot. The soles 
should be made large, not only to afford the feet a firm bearing, but that 
the projecting edge may protect the feet from blows from large stones, <S:c. 
Small screws will be found better than nails, as nails are apt to be knocked 
out by striking against rocks, and the screws hold together the different 
layers of the soles, which when thick will often, after being much wetted, 
separate from each other. The experienced pedestrian never commences a 
journey with new shoes, but with a pair that have already conformed to 
the shape of the feet. Cotton stockings cut the feet to pieces on a long- 
walk ; in their places, thick knit worsted socks, or cotton stockings with 



k. STEAMBOATS. XXVli 

worsted feet, ought invariably to be worn. Gaiters are useful, in wet 
weather to keep the socks clean ; at other times to prevent small stoned 
from falling into the shoes, but they are liable to heat the ankles. It is 
advisable to travel in woollen trowsers, not in linen, which afford no pro- 
tection against rain or changes of temperature in mountain regions ; those 
■>f Tweed stuff are very suitable. A frock-coat is better than that pet 
dress of juvenile Englishmen — a shooting jacket, which, though well 
enough in remote places, is strange, and will attract notice, in the streets 
of a foreign town. 

A very serviceable article in a traveller's wardrobe is a Blouse (Kittel 
in German), somewhat resembling a ploughman's smock-frock in England, 
but by no means confined to the lower orders abroad, as it is a common 
travelling costume of nobles, gentles, and peasants. It may be worn 
either over the usual dress, to keep it clean and free from dust, or it may 
be substituted for the coat in hot weather. This kind of garment may be 
purchased ready-made in any German town. The best colour is brown ; blue 
is usually worn by agricultural labourers only. The common light great- 
coat now worn in England, or even a shooting-jacket, is perhaps even 
preferable to the blouse. A knapsack maybe purchased at a much cheaper 
rate abroad, and on a much better plan, than those made in England. 
Portmanteaus are better in England than anywhere else. The dimensions 
admitted in the French mails are, 27 inches in length, 15 in breadth, and 
13 in height ; which a traveller bound for France will do well to remember. 
Soap is indispensable, being a rare article in Continental inns. A water- 
proof Macintosh life-preserver may be useful in some situations. 

A flask, to hold brandy and kirschwasser, is necessary on mountain 
excursions : it should be remembered, however, that spirits ought to be 
resorted to less as a restorative than as a protection against cold and wet, 
and to mix with water, which ought never to be drunk cold or unmixed 
during a walk. The best restorative is tea, and it can be procured good 
in Holland, and in most of the large towns of Germany. 

Carey, optician, 181, Strand, makes excellent pocket Telescopes, about 
four inches long, combining, with a small size, considerable power and 
an extensive range. Black glass spectacles are the best protection for the 
eyes against the glare of the sun in a southern climate. Spectacles are 
almost indispensable in railway travelling, for those who ride in 3rd class 
carriages, to protect the eyes from dust and cinders. A very neat portable 
writing-case is made by Lee, 440, W. Strand, who keeps also polyglot 
washing-books in 7 or 8 languages. 

A stout leather or canvas bag, to hold silver crown-pieces and dollars ; — 
cards, adhesive labels, pieces of parchment or leather for writing directions 
for the baggage (the managers of public conveyances abroad often insist 
upon each package being addressed before they will take charge of it) : — 
and one or two leather straps, to keep together small parcels, will be 
found very useful. 

lb. STEAMBOATS FEOM ENGLAND TO THE CONTINENT, 

*** Berths may be secured in the steamers belonging to the General Steam 
Navigation Company; but they should be taken some time beforehand, and 
notice thereof should be sent to the captain of the vessel by the clerk of the 
office, and information may be obtained respecting them at the offices, 60, 

b2 



XXV111 I. LANDING — CUSTOM-HOUSES — COMMISSIONAIRES. 

Lombard Street, and 37, Regent Circus, Piccadilly. Passengers are requested 
to have ail the packages composing their baggage distinctly marked with their 
names, and to take the whole on board with them. Baggage is not subject to 
examination on quitting London, but remains in the custody and under the con- 
trol of the persons to whom it belongs, and the Company is not liable for any 
damage or loss of it, nor for unavoidable delays or accidents, nor sea risks of 
any kind whatsoever. 

Travellers arriving from the country in London, to start by steam early in the 
morning, will find the hotels adjacent to London Bridge convenient night 
quarters. 

For further particulars see the printed advertisement of the General Steam 
Navigation Company, the Belgian Company, the Dutch Company (Batavier), 
the Commercial Company (Southampton). 

Carriages, horses, and baggage, being the bona fide property of passengers 
from Hamburg and Havre, landed free of expense in London : Carriages and 
horses, being the bona fide property of passengers going to Hamburg and Havre, 
shipped free of expense in London. Carriages (properly directed) and horses for 
embarkation from London must be sent in charge of proper persons, as follows : 
— for Hamburg and Havre, to Custom-house Quay, Lower Thames Street, by 
12 o'clock on the day previous to the departure of the packets ; for Antwerp and 
Rotterdam, to Brunswick Wharf, Blackwall ; and for Ostend, Calais, and Bou- 
logne, to London Bridge Wharf — two hours previous to the departure of the 
packets. 

I. LANDING ON THE CONTINENT — CUSTOM-HOUSES — COMMISSIONAIEES. 

When the steamboat reaches its destined port, the shore is usually beset 
by a crowd of clamorous agents from the different hotels, each vociferating 
the name and praises of that for which he is employed, stunning the dis- 
tracted stranger with their cries, and nearly scratching his face with their 
proffered cards. The only mode of rescuing himself from these tormentors, 
who often beset him a dozen at a time, is to make up his mind beforehand 
to what hotel he will go, and to name it at once. The Agent or Commis- 
sionaire of the house then steps forward, and the rest fall back, while he 
takes the new arrival under his protection, extricates him from the throng, 
and conducts him to his quarters. 

Passengers are not allowed to take their baggage on shore with them ; 
it is conveyed at once from the vessel to the Custom-house by the Custom- 
house porters, who are answerable for the safety of everything. The 
owner, instead of appearing himself to claim it, had better send his servant, 
or the Commissionaire of the inn, intrusting him with the keys, in order 
that he may open and clear each package. This is his usual duty, and 
the landlord of the inn, who employs him, is answerable for his honesty. 
Personal attendance at a Custom-house is by no means calculated to put 
the traveller in good humour. Indeed, it is a severe trial to his patience, 
first to wait till his turn comes, amidst the elbowing of porters, and next 
to look on while his well-packed trunk is tossed over " with a cruel, hard- 
hearted sort of civility which leaves nothing to complain of, and everything 
to lament." Indeed, the search into the baggage is often more severe in 
the presence of the traveller, which seems sometimes to give rise to a sus- 
picion of smuggling. He that would keep his temper, and does not grudge 
a fee of two francs to the Commissionaire, will intrust to him his" keys, 
and, dismissing the care of his baggage from his thoughts, amuse himself 



k. BRITISH CUSTOM-HOUSE. xxix 

for an hour or so, when he will probably find his effects conveyed to his 
chamber, very often not opened at all, generally only slightly examined. 

If, however, the baggage contain any contraband articles, it is advisable 
to declare them beforehand, and to pay the duty. 

" Those who would travel with comfort should be particularly on their 
guard against rendering themselves liable to detention or penalty at the 
foreign Custom-houses. They should avoid taking anything which is 
contraband, either for themselves or for their friends ; for it too often 
happens that travellers on the Continent are meanly solicited to take those 
things for their friends who are abroad which they dare not send by the 
public conveyance, thus rendering their travelling friends liable to penalty 
and punishment. This is more strikingly the case where they are requested 
to take letters, for which public conveyances are provided : in this case 
they suffer their friends to run a great risk for the sake of saving the 
postage. Such conduct is most unpardonable." — Brockedon, 

The next service the Commissionaire will perform is, to obtain the 
signature of the police for the traveller's passport, so as to enable him to 
proceed on his journey. Travellers of respectability are scarcely ever- 
required now, as they were formerly, to repair in person to the police 
office to obtain a signature for the passport. The passport should be the 
traveller's first care ; indeed, until it is vise, he is, comparatively speaking, 
not a free agent. 

k. BRITISH CUSTOM-HOUSE — TRANSMISSION OF GOODS FROM THE 

CONTINENT. 

In England the right of personal search exists only where the Custom- 
house officer has good cause to suspect that contraband goods are concealed 
about the person. The suspected individual may call upon a justice of 
the peace, or a comptroller of the Customs, to decide whether the suspicion 
is well founded. 

Travellers who send works of art, or other valuable property, from the 
Continent to London, should consign them to the care of an agent at the 
Custom-house in London, as such articles are frequently injured and need- 
less expense incurred from want of a person to take charge of them when 
they arrive, and to see them examined, entered, and properly repacked. 
The charge is the same whether the goods are so consigned or not. The 
Author of the Handbook has employed Mr. Chinnery, of Thames Street, 
London, on such business, and has found him attentive and trustworthy. 

Mr. Chinnery has licence from the Commissioners of Customs to act as 
agent for receiving and despatching goods, and has given bond to the 
amount of 1000?. for the safety of property intrusted to him. 

Messrs. M'Cracken and Co., 7, Old Jewry, London, are long-established 
and highly trustworthy agents, and have a very large list of foreign corre- 
spondents, especially in Italy. Messrs. Lightly and Simon, 123, Fen- 
church Street, may also be mentioned. 

For lists of foreign correspondents, see the advertiser at the end of this 
volume. 

N.B. — Goods must be examined when they arrive in London, therefore pack- 
ages that are locked should have the keys attached. 



XXX /. INNS AND INNKEEPERS. 

L INNS AND INNKEEPEKS. 

Foreign innkeepers desirous of attracting English travellers to their 
houses, by studying the wants and wishes of their guests, will do well to 
attend to the following notes- of information, which ought to be hung up 
by innkeepers on the walls of every coffee-room for travellers : — 

" Prices of all Articles supplied by the Hotel. Meals: — Table-d'hdte — 
Wines — Baths^ — Carriages, &c. 

" Public Conveyances* Mails — their time of Starting — Price to various 
Places — Time of Arrival — Diligences, ditto — Steamboats, ditto— Other 
Boats, ditto — Printed Papers of Steam-packets to England and down the 
Rhine — Fiacres* 

" There ought to be hung up on the walls a Map of the town, if there 
is one — Map of the adjacent country — Map of the kingdom. A Directory 
of the town, if published, should always be kept in the coffee-room. 

" Distinct compartments on the walls should be secured for different 
advertisements, affiches, &c. In large cities, lists of theatres and operas^ 
Every hotel ought to have in the hall, or where the keys are kept, a large 
board with the numbers of each apartment, and a space opposite, in which 
the name of the occupier is written. The best hotels have this, and it is 
a very great convenience to enable travellers to discover their friends. A 
book is of little use, because it is never kept up to the time. 

" If the card of the hotel has printed on its reverse a small map of the 
town, with a dark spot for the hotel, it is extremely useful. 

" Every steamer or other boat ought to have hung up in it the tariff of 
prices. This is rarely omitted (except on the Lake of Geneva), and, when 
omitted, travellers always suppose they are charged higher than the 
natives. 

" Steamboats ought also to be furnished with printed lists of the time 
of starting of mails and diligences from the points at which they stop. 

" Many hotels, on the Rhine and elsewhere, charge a single traveller 
(who supped in the coffee-room and slept one night) a franc for wax 
candles. This is not to be admitted, unless he have a private sitting- 
room. I have never paid it, finding it immediately withdrawn on remon- 
strance. If travellers will not resist, they will be compelled to pay it on 
the plea of custom. 

" It is the interest of every hotel-keeper to supply his guests with 
information relative to the modes of leaving him : this renders their return 
more probable/' — Charles Puller* 

Caution to Innkeepers and others. — A person or persons have of late 
been extorting money from innkeepers, tradespeople, artists, and others on 
the Continent, under pretext of procuring recommendations and favourable 
notices of them and their establishments in the Handbooks for Travellers. 
The Editor, therefore, thinks proper to warn all whom it may concern, that 
recommendations in the Handbooks are not to be obtained by purchase, 
and that the persons alluded to are not only unauthorised by him, but are 
totally unknown to him. All those, therefore, who put confidence in such 
promises may rest assured that they will be defrauded of their money 
without attaining their object. — 1841. 

The characters of inns, good and bad, inserted in the Handbook, are- 
given either from personal knowledge or upon unexceptionable authority 



m. ENGLISH CHURCH ON THE CONTINENT. XXXL 

of travellers whose names and residences are known to the Editor. Where 
the objections stated in this hook no longer exist, and where a positive 
improvement has taken place, the Editor is always ready to listen to 
respectable and well-authenticated testimony, and to remove in future 
editions the condemnatory epithets or passages. Thus he hopes to stimu- 
late to exertion and amendment, to protect travellers from neglect and 
imposition, and to do justice to deserving innkeepers. 

Ml. ENGLISH CHURCH ON THE CONTINENT. 

An interesting and useful little book (price 2s. Gd.) has been compiled 
by the Rev. G. E. Biber, and published by the Messrs. Rivington, in 
Waterloo Place, giving " An Account of the Foreign Settlements of the 
English Church, including a Notice of the times of Service, and other 
information useful to Travellers and Foreign Residents." It will be seen 
that there is an English minister and congregation in very many of the 
principal towns included in this Handbook. Most of these ministers 
officiate under a licence from the Bishop of London. In one or two cases 
they derive a portion of their income from an allowance made by the 
home or some foreign government ; but, except in these cases, the income 
of the minister, and the funds necessary for the services of the church, 
and for obtaining a place for public worship, are dependent upon the 
voluntary payments of English residents and travellers. 



( xxxii ) 



n. A FEW SKELETON TOURS UPON THE CONTINENT ; 

WITH AN APPROXIMATE STATEMENT OF THE TIME REQUIRED TO TRAVEL FROM 
PLACE TO PLACE, AND OF THE DURATION OF THE HALTS TO BE MADE AT THE 
MOST REMARKABLE SPOTS. 



^** The first Column denotes the Hours or Days actually occupied in Travelling, 
not including stoppages at night. The second Column gives the probable 
duration of the Halts to be made for sight-seeing. The brackets [ ] denote 
side excursions, which may be omitted if time require it. 



A. — Tour through Holland. 

About a Fortnight or three Weeks. 

Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 
From London to Rotter- 



dam . 
Delft 
Hague . 
Leiden . 
Haarlem 
Alkmaar . 
Helder . 
Medemblick 
Broek 
Saardam . 
Amsterdam , 
Utrecht . . 






25 

3 

I 

1 

4, 

8 

9 
8 
2 
1 

n 



Arnhem ..... If 

JNijmegen .... 2 

Rotterdam ..... 8 

(By steam-boat.). 



or 3 
i 

4 



B. — London to the Borders of 
Switzerland, through Belgium 

AND UP THE RmiNE. 

A Tour of about six weeks, allowing 
ample time to see all that is most re- 
markable by the way.. 

Hours in Days of 



London to Ostend by 
Dover .... 
Bruges . . . 
Ghent . , , 
Antwerp ., .. ,. 
Mechlin , . t 
Brussels . . . 
Waterloo. . . 
Kamur or Huy 



Travelling* Sojousa. 



9 

1 

X 2 

2 
1 

o-l 

14 



1 or 2 

2 or 3, 



[Excursion to Dinant and the grotto 
of Hans. 2 days to go and re- 
turn.] 

Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn » 



Liege . . . 
[Spa .... 
Aix-Ia-Chapelle ): 
Cologne ... } 
[Altenberg and back 
Bonn, and . . 
Godesberg . , 
[Lake of Laach 
Coblenz . . . 
St. Goar . . . 
Bacharaeh . . 
Bingen . . . 
Riidesheim . . 
Mayence . . 
[Wiesbaden. . 
Frankfurt . . 
Darmstadt . . 
[Odenwald . . 
Heidelberg . . 
Carlsruhe . . 
Baden 
Strasburg 
Freiburg 
Schaffhausen 






5 

3 

3* 

2* 

9 

4 

9 
6 



3 
1 



2 



W 



2 

2 

a 

2" 
3 
12 or 14 



or 2 



ji 

& 

$1 



2 T ] 

Z 2 



or 



1^- 
2 

n 

2 

x 



The excursions through Switzerland 
are given in Handbook for Switzer^ 

LAND. 

Return from Switaerland to London 
down the Rhine. 



Basel to Frankfurt (Railroad) 
Frankfurt to Cologne . . 
Cologne to Ostend .... 



Hours, 

> 14 
, 12 

. 13 



71. SKELETON TOURS. 



XXX1U 



C. — A Tour of about 45 Days 
through Belgium, Rhenish 

Prussia, and Nassau. 

The asterisk (*) marks the number 
of nights to be passed at a place. 



}• 



Hours in 
Travelling. 

By Steam-boat to 

Ostend 15 

Bruges ) *d 

Ghent [r| 5 

Brussels j p^ 

Waterloo ) A 

Namur j 

Huy 

Liege 

Spa 3 

Malmedi .... 5 

Treves 9 

Descent of Moselle . 10 

Coblenz 

St. Goar 1 

Bacharach > . . . 5 

Bingen 

Riidesheim \ n 

Mayence J 

Frankfurt (Railrd.) 

Wiesbaden . 

Schwalbach . . . 

Ems 

Coblenz 2 

Andernach .... 2 
[Excursion to Laacher See 
Remagen .... 3 
[Excursion up the Ahr 10 



Godesberg 
[Excursion to Friesdorf 

— Drachenfels 

— Heisterbach 
Bonn 



Cologne 



2 

2 
6 

5] 

1 

1 



10* 



Aix-la-Cha 

pelle 
Liege 
Louvain 
Malines 
Antwerp 
London ..... 25 



T3 






Nights to 
be passed. 









1* 

H 

2 
4 






day] 


*] 

*-* 



** 



Distances in Eng. miles 
don to Frankfurt, by 
Antwerp, and Ostend. 



London 
Brielle 



to Brielle . . 
to Rotterdam . 



from Lon- 
Rottcrdam, 

Miles. 
180 
20 



Rotterdam to Emmerich . 

— to Hague 12 

— to Amster- 

dam 40 
Emmerich to Diisseldorf 



111 



200 



Diisseldorf to Cologne. 
— to Elberfeld, 



Cologne 
Bonn 



to Bonn i 
to Coblenz 



20 



73| 



81* 



20^ 
45| 



1841 



Coblenz to Boppart 

Boppart to Caub 

Caub to Bingen . 

Bingen to Bieberich 

Bieberich to Wiesbaden 3~ 

— to Mayence , 3 



16} 

i4 



Mayence 



London 
Flushing 



to Frankfurt 22 
to Mannheim46| 



to Flushing 
to Antwerp 



163 
6Q 



Antwerp 
Liege 



to Brussels 26* 



to Liege 

to Aix-la-Chapelle 
Aix-la-Chapelle to Diisseldorf \ 
to Cologne / 



London 
Ostend 



to Ostend . 
to Ghent 
to Brussels 
to Liege . 



44| 
30* 



Brussels to Liege 67. 



97£ 



59* 



541 5 



229 

62 
28 

431 



362i 



136 



124 



260 



b 3 



XXXiV 



71. SKELETON TOUES. 



D. — London to Frankfurt and 
Basle. 

(By Steam all the way.) 
By avoiding all stoppages, except to 
sleep at night, it is possible to reach 
Frankfurt on the 3rd night from 
London. 

Hours 
in going. 
9 



To Ostend 



Cologne 13 

Coblenz 7 

Mayence 7 

Frankfurt (Railway) .... 1| 

Basle (Railway) . .... 14 



E. — London to Trieste. 

The quickest way from London to 
the centre of Germany, to Berlin, 
Leipzig, Dresden, Prague, or even 
Vienna and Trieste, is as follows : — 

Hours. 
London to 

Ostend by Dover ..... 9 



Cologne 
Magdebtng 

[Berlin 
Leipzig 
Dresden 
Prague 
Vienna 
Laibach 
Trieste 



Another Route is, London to 
Hamburg by steamer 

[Magdeburg ] > . . 
Berlin V% . . 

Dresden Ph . . 



13 
19 



13 

20 
13 



52 

8 
9 
6 



Berlin is connected with Vienna by 
2 lines of railway. The shortest is by 
Dresden and Prague, as above, 27 hrs. 
The other takes 30 hrs., viz. — 

Breslau 11 

Ratibor , . . 6 

Vienna 13 



-London to Munich, Salzburg, 

and Vienna. 

Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 

38 J7, 2or 

3 ) U >™ 
[ in B. 

7 . . 1 



To Frankfurt . . . 
Heidelberg (Railroad) 

Heilbronn . . . 



Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn, 

Stuttgart (Railroad) . If . . 1 
Ulm (Railroad) . . 4 . . 1 
Augsburg . . . . 7£ . . * 

several 
weeks. 



Munich (Railroad) . . 2 j 

Salzburg . . . . 15 j , -. 

Hallein ~\ excur- > ■, 

Berchtesgaden j sions. 

Ischl 6£ . . 4 

Traunsee and Fall ) -, Q f 1 

Linz ..../' 1A ' • 1 1 
By Danube to Vienna .9 . . — 



G. — London to Strasburg and Mu- 
nich, by Wurzburg, Nuremberg, 
and the Danube. 

Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn, 

To Frankfurt, as in D . 38 
"Wurzburg . . . .13 
Nuremberg . . . .12 
Ratisbon . . . . .13 
Linz Ybj steam down f 1 2 
Vienna) the Danube \ 9 
From Linz to the 

Falls of the Traun, 

the Lake of Gmun- 

den, and Ischl . . 12 
Salzburg ..... •» 
Munich . . . . . I as in F 
Heidelberg . . . . ) 
England by the Rhine as in B. 



3 or 4 



H. — London to Dresden, the Saxon 



Switzerland, 
Baths. 



and Bohemian 



Hours in 
Travelling 



Days of 
Sojourn- 



To Frankfurt as in D . 38 
Cassel ...... 13 

Eisenach 
Gotha 

Erfurt > Railway 6 

Weimar 
Leipzig 

Dresden (Railway). . 
[Excursion to Saxon 

Switzerland, 2 or 3 days.] 

Teplitz 8 

Carlsbad 13 

Prague 17 

Vienna 15 

Or from Prague to 

Linz 28| 



3*10 



or 14 



n. SKELETON TOURS. 



XXXV 



!.- Another Route from Dresden. 

Hrs. in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 

Dresden 

[Excursion to Saxon Swit- 
zerland, 3 or 4 days.] 
Ilorrnhut and Zittau 
(Railroad) ... 4 . . — 
[Excursion to the Riesenge 
targe and thence to Prague, 
4 or 5 days.] 

Prague — 

Carlsbad 13 

Marienbad .... 5 
Eger and Franzensbad 3 
Alexandersbad ... 4 
[Excursion to the Fichtelge- 
birge and thence to Bai- 
rcuth, 2 or 3 days.] 
[Excursion to Franconian 
Switzerland and thence to 
Bamberg, 3 days.] 
Bamberg .... — 
Kissingen and Briick- 

enau 12 

Frankfurt .... 16 



K. -Sketch of a Second Tour in 
the Neighbourhood of the Rhine 
by less frequented Routes, in- 
tknded for such as are already 
acquainted with Routes A and B. 

Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 

London to Calais ... 5 

Ypres 6 

Touraay 5 

Mons 

Namur 

Dinant 



9± 

Z 2 



Luxemburg 



3 

3 

14 

4 



Treves 

Descent of Moselle 
to Coblenz . . . 12 
Excursions ... — 

Bingen 6 

Kreuznach and Ober- 
stein 8 

Alzei and Mont Ton- 
nerre 6 

Kaiserslautern . . . ) 
Landstuhl . . . > 8 
Durkkeim . . J 

Landau 8 



1 or 2 



Hours 


n Davs of 


Tra 


veiling. Sojourn. 


, Annweilcr and back . 


1 


I 




4 


i 
• • 3 


Carlsruhc .... 


G 


1 as in 
f B. 


Strasburg .... 


3 


Ban do la Roche and 








2 


days. 


Over the Knicbis to 






Tii bingen 


12 hours. 


Stuttgart .... 


3 


. . 3 


Ileilbronn .... 


2 


. . a| 


Descent of Neckar 


8 


. , — 


Erbach, in the Oden- 








8 


, . — - 


Fraidtfurt .... 


8 


. , — 


Taunus Mountains to 






Limburg .... 


8 


. . i§ 


Siegburg .... 


11 






3 


.• . — 



L. — Paris to St. Petersburg in 7 

DAYS. 

Brussels 12 hrs. 

Amsterdam . . . . 14 
Hamburg .... 36 

Liibeck 6 

St. Petersburg by steam, 4 or 5 days. 



M. — What may be done in Three 
Weeks, travelling by public convey- 
ance, and now and then at night, and 
halting on Sundays. 

Hours in 
Days. Travelling. 



1 London to Ostend, by Dover 
2 | Bruges 

(Ghent 

( Ghent 

[ Antwerp 

4 Antwerp 

r (Antwerp 

[Brussels 

6 Brussels and Waterloo 

7 By Charleroi and the Mouse 

to Liege — Railway . . 
ft (Aix-la-Chapclle . . ) (>>_; 

*\ to Cologne. . j^ 'g 

qjCologno 

{Coblenz 

I Coblenz, Ehrenbreitstein, 
&c 
St. Goai- 



is 

■I 



11 

4 
4 



XXXVI 



n. SKELETON TOURS. 



Hours in 
Days. Travelling. 

11 To Riidesheim, seeing 

Rheinstein and the 

Niederwald 12 

12 To Wiesbaden 8 

13 To Frankfurt 2 

14 To Heidelberg (Railroad) . . 3 

..-(Heidelberg — 

1& t To Mannheim £ 

16 By steam to Cologne ... 14 

17 Railroad to Ostend . . . . 13 

1 8 Ostend to London .... 9 

Four days more would enable the 
traveller to include Baden and Stras- 
burg. 

This route here laid down would 
give a traveller the opportunity of 
seeing several most interesting cities 
and much fine scenery — though of 
course they could not be explored 
thoroughly in such a flying visit. A 
great many of our countrymen, having 
no fixed plan to travel by, seem only 
to calculate how far from home they 
can go in a limited time, and are con- 
tented with what they can see from the 
deck of the steamer and the window of 
the diligence. They would be much 
more gratified were they to portion out 
their time somewhat in the manner 
indicated above. 



N.- 



-London to Milan by Strasburg 
and the splugen pass. 



Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 

To Paris 12 . . 2 

Strasburg (by railway 

and malleposte) . . 30 . . — 
Schaffhausen . . . 16 . . — ■ 

Zurich 5 . . — 

Coire (across the 
lakes of Zurich and 
Wallenstadt) . . 15 . . — 

Splugen 7 . . — 

Milan (daily diligence) 21 . . — 
Care should be taken by the travel- 
ler, on arriving in Paris, to secure at 
once his own passport in exchange for 
his passe provisoire. 



N.B. A passport which has once re- 
ceived the signature of the Ministres 
de rinterieuret des Affaires Etrangeres 
at Paris is not liable to be taken away 
at the frontier on re-entering France. 
(See Handbook for France.) 



0. — London to Naples. 

Hours on the way. 
To Paris by Folkestone and 

Boulogne 11 

Chalons-sur-Saone by rail- 
way 9 

Lyons by steam .... 8 
Avignon by steam . . . 13 
Marseilles by railway . . 3 
Genoa 1 1" c^ M - r 32 

Leghorn s > ? S 



S * * -2 

CivitaVecchia f £|,>l * ) 
Naples J £§-3:3 



26 



This journey is practicable in 7 
days. 



-London to Constantinople and 
Athens, down the Danube. 

Days in Travelling. 



London to Frankfurt by 
Ostend and Cologne . . 
Frankfurt to Ratisbon . 
Ratisbon by steam down the 
Danube to Vienna . . 
=3 „• [ Vienna to 
eg J Pest 1 day 

3 c < Orsova 



4 



9X 



1st | 

4th 

7th 

10th 



a - . 

2 e ■"■ 

<a u ■" 

o> o si 



* | I G-alatz 3 

ffl* [Constantinople 2i 
Constantinople to 

Smyrna, by steam every week. 

Athens, every week. 

The most agreeable way of reaching 
Constantinople or Athens, at present, 
is by the Austrian Lloyd Steamers from 
Trieste. Steamers leave Trieste — for 
Constantinople, by way of Corfu, Syra, 
Smyrna, &c, every Thursday — for 
Athens, by Ancona, Brindisi, Corfu, 
Patras, Lutraki, and by carriages across 
the Isthmus to Calimaki 



n. SKELETON TOURS. 



XXXV11 



Table of Time taken in travel- 
ling from London to various 
Places on the Continent. 

(Exclusive of delays in waiting for 
public conveyance, steamers, &c.) 

Hours. 
Cologne by Ostend . . . .22 
Frankfurt by Ostend and Co- 
logne 38 

by Rotterdam and up 

the Rhine 71 

Berlin by Ostend and Cologne . 45^ 

by Hamburg (steamer) . 61 

Dresden by Magdeburg ... 48 

by Frankfurt . . .61 

Munich by Frankfurt and Hei- 
delberg 63 

by Strasburg and Hei- 
delberg 68 

Vienna by Frankfurt and Ratis- 
bon, and thence down the 

Danube 97 

by Ostend, Magdeburg, 

and Dresden (railway) . .69 
Pest by Dresden and Vienna 

(railway) 80 

Trieste by Dresden and Vienna 102* 

Marseilles 44 

Paris by Folkestone and Bou- 
logne f 11 



Hours. 
Paris by Brighton, Dieppe, and 

Rouen 20 

Strasburg by Paris . . . .42 
by Frankfurt . . .46 

Days. 

Belgrade fby Pest (rhvy.), g 

n & . ,. i <& thence down 10 
Constantinople^ Danube , 12 

Copenhagen 2^ 

St. Petersburg by Berlin and 

Stettin, and thence by steamer 5 

by Liibeck . 6 or 7 

Warsaw by Breslau (railway) . 3^ 
Cracow by Breslau (railway) . 3 

Stockholm 4 or 5 

Geneva 2 

Milan by Lyons and Geneva . 
by Zurich and the Splii- 

gen ........ 

Venice by Dresden, Vienna, and 

Trieste 

by Munich and the Tyrol 

by Lyons,. Geneva, and 



44 



4i 



4-1 



Milan 



by Zurich, the Spliigen, 



and Milan 5 £ 

Rome by Marseilles . . . . 5£ 
Naples by Marseilles .... 6 



* When the railways over the Semmering, and the line from Laibach, are completed, Trieste 
may be reached in 94 hours ; and, if the Austrians should accelerate the speed of their trains, 
in 84. 



*#* Those among the above routes which belong to Southern Germany are 



described in the second Volume of the Handbook, 
found in the Handbook for Switzerland. 



The Swiss routes will be 



( xxxix ) 

Table A. 

To reduce KRONTHALERS (Dollars of Brabant, or Crowns) 

to Florins. 



K.T. 


PI. 


Kr. 


K. T. 


Fl. 


Kr. 


K.T. 


Fl. 


Kr. 


1 


2 


42 


36 


97 


12 


71 


191 


42 


2 


5 


24 


37 


99 


54 


72 


194 


24 


3 


8 


6 


38 


102 


36 


73 


197 


6 


4 


10 


48 


39 


105 


18 


74 


199 


48 


5 


13 


30 


40 


108 


— 


75 


202 


30 


6 


16 


12 


41 


110 


42 


76 


205 


12 


7 


18 


54 


42 


113 


24 


77 


207 


54 


8 


21 


36 


43 


116 


6 


78 


210 


36 


9 


24 


18 


44 


118 


48 


79 


213 


18 


10 


27 


— 


45 


121 


30 


80 


216 


— 


11 


29 


42 


46 


124 


12 


81 


218 


42 


12 


32 


24 


47 


126 


54 


82 


221 


24 


13 


35 


6 


48 


129 


36 


83 


224 


6 


14 


37 


48 


49 


132 


18 


84 


226 


48 


15 


40 


30 


50 


135 


— 


85 


229 


30 


16 


43 


12 


51 


137 


42 


86 


232 


12 


17 


45 


54 


52 


140 


24 


87 


234 


54 


18 


48 


36 


53 


143 


6 


88 


237 


36 


19 


51 


18 


54 


145 


48 


89 


240 


18 


20 


54 


— 


55 


148 


30 


90 


243 


— 


21 


56 


42 


56 


151 


12 


91 


245 


42 


22 


59 


24 


57 


153 


54 


92 


248 


24 


23 


62 


6 


58 


156 


36 


93 


251 


6 


24 


64 


48 


59 


159 


18 


94 


253 


48 


25 


67 


30 


60 


162 


— 


95 


256 


30 


26 


70 


12 


61 


164 


42 


96 


259 


12 


27 


72 


54 


62 


167 


24 


97 


261 


54 


28 


75 


36 


63 


170 


6 


98 


264 


36 


29 


78 


18 


64 


172 


48 


99 


267 


18 


30 


81 


— 


65 


175 


30 


100 


270 


— 


31 


83 


42 


66 


178 


12 


101 


272 


42 


32 


86 


24 


67 


180 


54 


102 


275 


24 


33 


89 


6 


68 


183 


36 


103 


278 


6 


34 


91 


48 


69 


186 


18 


104 


280 


48 


35 


94 


30 


70 


189 


— 


105 


283 


30 



( xl ) 

Table B. 

English Money reduced to an equivalent Value in the 



English Money. 


Hamburg, l 


Saxony. 2 


Prussia. 2 




£. s. d. 
1 
2 
3 
4 
5 
6 
7 
8 
9 
10 
11 
10 
2 
3 
4 
5 
6 
•0 7 
8 
9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
10 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 
10 
20 
30 
40 
50 


Mar. 













1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

34 

51 

68 

85 

102 

120 

137 

154 

171 

342 

514 

685 

857 


Sch. 

M 

2f 

3| 

44 

? 

9* 
lOf 

113 
124 
13f 

U J 

?4 

6 J 

9 

13f 
llf 

9* 

69 

4f 

2f 


13f 
11| 

9} 

9f 

2f 

q 

6f 

9} 

llf 

13f . 

22 

4| 
61 
13f 
44 
^7 

113 
92 


Th. 














1 

1 
1 

2 

2 

2 

3 

3 

3 

4 

4 

4 

5 

5 

5 

6 

6 

6 

13 

20 

26 

33 

40 

46 

53 

60 

66 

133 

200 

266 

333 


G. Gr. 

o§ 

n 

2 

2§ 

4 

4§ 

H 
6 

6^ 

7 1 

8 
16 



8 
16 



8 
16 



8 
16- 



8 
16 



8 
16 



8 
16 

8 


16 

8 


16 

8 


16 

8 


16 

8 


Th. 















1 
1 
1 

2 

2 

2 

3 

3 

3 

4 

4 

4 

5 

5 

5 

6 

6 

6 

13 

20 

26 

33 

40 

46 

53 

60 

66 

133 

200 

266 

333 


S. Gr. 
% 

H 

n 

4 1 
? 

9 

G i 

3 

8 J 

10 6 

20 


10 
20 


10 
20 


10 
20 


10 
20 


10 
20 


10 
20 
10 


20 
10 


20 
10 


20 
10 


20 
10 



























































































1 16 Hamburg Shillings — to 1 Marc. 

2 24 Good Groschen or 30 Silver Groschen = to 1 Thaler. 

3 60 Kreutzers = to 1 Florin. 

4 20 Stivers = to 1 Guilder. 

5 100 Venetian Cents = to 1 Lira. 



( xli ) 

Table B. 

Money of various States on the Continent of Europe. 



Austria. 3 



Fl. 














1 

1 

2 

2 

3 

3 

4 

4 

5 

5 

6 

6 

7 

7 

8 

8 

9 

9 

10 

20 

30 

40 

50 

60 

70 

80 

90 

100 

200 

300 

400 

500 



Kr. 
2± 
5" 

'2 
10 

12± 
15 

17 1 

20 

22f 

25 

27| 

30 


30 


30 


30 


30 


30 


30 


30 


30 


30 































Frankfurt.3 
Bavaria. 



Fl. 













1 

1 

2 

3 

3 

4 

4 

5 

6 

6 

7 

7 

8 

9 

9 

10 

10 

11 

12 

24 

36 

48 

60 

72 

84 

96 

108 

120 

240 

360 

480 

600 



Kr. 

3 

6 

9 

12 

15 

18 

21 

24 

27 

30 

33 

36 

12 

48 

24 



36 

12 

48 

24 



36 

12 

48 

24 



36 

12 

48 

24 































Holland. 4 



Gui. 













1 
1 

2 

3 

3 

4 

4 

5 

6 

6 

7 

7 

8 

9 

9 

10 

10 

11 

12 

24 

36 

48 

60 

72 

84 

96 

108 

120 

240 

360 

480 

600 



Stiv. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 
10 
11 
12 

4 
16 

8 


12 

4 
16 

8 


12 

4 
16 

8 


12 

4 
16 

8 































Venetian 
Lombardy.5 



Lira. 








1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

3 
4 
6 

7 

9 

10 

12 

13 

15 

16 

18 

19 

21 

22 

24 

25 

27 

28 

30 

60 

90 

120 

150 

180 

210 

240 

270 

300 

600 

900 

1200 

1500 



Cts. 

12i 

25 

37^ 

50 

62| 

75 

87| 



12* 

25 

37| 

50 


50 


50 


50 


50 


50 


50 


50 


50 


50 































France. 6 



Fr. 











1 
1 
1 

2 

3 

5 

6 

7 

8 

10 

11 

12 

13 

15 

16 

17 

18 

20 

21 

22 

23 

25 

50 

75 

100 

125 

150 

175 

200 

225 

250 

500 

750 

1000 

1250 



6 100 French Cents = to 1 Franc. 
If more be received for a pound sterling than is expressed on this scale, it 
will be so much gain by the exchange ; if less, it will be so much loss. 
(This is not for the use of merchants, but travellers.) 



( m ) 

Table C. 

PEUSSIAN MONEY, 

Reduced to its Value at par in the Money of 



'S«i-'3 


Saxony. 


Frankfurt, 
Nassau, 


France. 


Switzerland. 


England. 


Prussian I)< 

courant o 

Silver Gros< 


Rix-Dollars 


Bavaria, fyc. 


Francs 


Francs of 


Pound Sterling 
of 


of 
24 Good 
Groschen. 


Florins of 
60 
Kreutzers. 


containing 

100 
Centimes. 


10 
Batz. 


20 Shillings, 

or 
240 Pence. 


Th. 


G. 


Rt. 


Gros. 


Fl. 


Kr. 


Fr. 


C. 


Fr. 


B. 


£. s. d. 


— 


1 


— 


16 
2T 


— 


3i 


— 


12 


— 


->8 


li 


— 


2 


— 


i« 


■ — 


7 


— 


25 


— 


1,7 


2| 


— 


3 


— 


2|r 


— 


I0i 


— 


37 


— 


2,5 


3i 


— 


4 


— 


U 2T 


— 


14' 


— 


49 


— 


3,3 


4| 


— . 


5 


— 


H\ 


— 


17 A 


— 


62 


— 


4,2 


5| 


— 


6 


— 


4.12 
2T 


— 


21 


— 


74 


— 


5,- 


7 


— 


7 


— 


°2T 


— 


24i 


— 


87 


— 


5,8 


8i 


— 


8 


— 


6- 2 - 
21 


— 


28" 


— - 


99 


— 


6,7 


9i 


— 


9 


— 


D 2T 


— 


31| 


1 


11. 


— 


7,5 


10i 


— 


10 


— 


713 
21 


— 


35 


1 


23 


— 


8,3 


112 


— 


20 


— 


15| T 


1 


10 


2 


46 


1 


6,6 


1 Hi 


1 








22f 


1 


45 


3 


69 


2 


4,9 


2 11 


2 


— 


1 


21f 


3 


30 


7 


39 


4 


9,9 


5 10 


3 


— 


2 


20| 


5 


15 


11 


8 


7 


4,8 


8 9 


4 


— 


3 


19f 


7 


— 


14 


78 


9 


9,7 


11 8 


5 


— 


4 


181 


8 


45 


18 


47 


12 


4,7 


14 7 


6 


— 


5 


I7i 


10 


30 


22 


17 


14 


9,6 


17 6 


7 


— 


6 


16 


12 


15 


25 


86 


17 


4,5 


10 5 


8 


— 


7 


14$ 


14 


— 


29 


55 


19 


9,5 


13 4 


9 


— 


8 


13f 


15 


45 


33 


25 


22 


4,4 


16 3 


10 





9 


12| 


17 


30 


36 


94 


24 


9,4 


19 2 


20 


— 


19 


M 


35 


— 


73 


88 


49 


8,7 


2 18 4 


30 


— 


28 


13f 


52 


30 


110 


82 


74 


8,1 


4 7 6 


40 


-,— 


38 


2f 


70 


— 


147 


76 


99 


7,4 


5 16 8 


50 


— 


47 


14| 


87 


30 


184 


71 


124 


6,7 


7 5 10 


60 


, — 


57 


3f 


105 


_ 


221 


65 


149 


6,1 


8 15 


70 


— 


66 


15 


122 


30 ' 


268 


59 


174 


5,5 


10 4 2 


80 


— 


76 


4* 


140 


— 


295 


53 


199 


4,8 


11 13 4 


90 


— 


85 


17} 


157 


30 


332 


47 


224 


4,2 


13 2 6 


100 


— 


95 


5f 


175 


— 


369 


41 


249 


3,5 


14 11 8 

























( xliii ) 

Table D. 

MONEY OF NASSAU, FRANKFURT, BADEN, WURTEMBERG, 

BAVARIA, &c. 

FLORINS (at the rate of 24 to the Mark of Silver), reduced to the Value at par 

of the Money of 



<— N 
























Prussia. 






England. 




France. 


Switzerland. 


Dollars 


Saxony. 


Pounds Sterling 


Flori 

(an pied d 

of 

60 Kreu 


Francs of 

100 
Centimes. 


Francs of 

10 

Batz. 


courant of 

30 

Silver 

Groschen. 


Mix- Dollars of 

24 

Groschen. 


of 
20 Shillings 

or 
240 Pence. 


PI. 


Kr. 


Fr. 


C. 


Fr. 


B. 


T. 


Gr. 


T. 


Gr. 


£. s. d. 


— 


1 


— 


4 


— 


-,2 


— 


-,3 


— 


-,2 


0^ 


— 


2 


— 


7 


— 


-,5 


— 


-,6 


■ — 


~>4 


0§ 


— 


3 


— 


11 


— 


->7 


— 


-,9 


— 


-,7 


1 


— 


4 


— 


14 


— 


1»- 


— 


1,1 


— 


-,9 


o o i| 


— 


5 


— 


18 


— 


1,2 


— 


1,4 


— 


1,1 


if 


— 


6 


— 


22 


— 


1,5 


— 


1,7 


— 


1,3 


2 


— 


7 


— 


25 


— 


1,7 


— 


2,- 


— 


1,6 


2i 


— 


8 


— 


29 


— 


1,9 


— 


2,3 


— 


1,8 


2§ 


— 


9 


— 


32 


— 


2,1 


— 


2,6 


— 


2,- 


3 


— 


10 


— 


36 


. — ■ 


2,4 


— 


2,9 


— 


2,2 


31 


— 


20 


— 


72 


— 


4,8 


— 


5,7 


— 


4,4 


6§ 


— 


30 


1 


8 


— 


7,3 


— 


8,6 


— 


6,7 


10 


— 


40 


1 


44 


— 


9,7 


— 


11,4 


— 


8,9 


i ijj 


— 


50 


1 


80 


1 


2,1 


— 


14,3 


— 


11,1 


1 4§ 


1 


— 


2 


15 


1 


4,5 





17,1 





13,3 


18 


2 


— 


4 


31 


2 


9,1 


1 


4,3 


1 


2,7 


3 4 


3 


— 


6 


46 


4 


3,6 


1 


21,4 


1 


16,- 


5 


4 


— 


8 


62 


5 


8,2 


2 


8,6 


2 


5,3 


6 8 


5 


— 


10 


77 


7 


2,7 


2 


25,7 


2 


18,7 


8 4 


6 


— 


12 


93 


8 


7,3 


3 


12,9 


3 


8,- 


10 


7 


— 


15 


8 


10 


1,8 


4 


— 


3 


21,3 


11 8 


8 


— 


17 


24 


11 


6,4 


4 


17,1 


4 


10,7 


13 4 


9 


— 


19 


39 


12 


-,9 


5 


4,3 


5 


— 


15 


10 


— 


21 


55 


14 


5,5 


5 


21,4 


5 


13,3 


16 8 


20 


— 


43 


10 


29 


-,9 


11 


12,9 


11 


2,7 


1 13 4 


30 


— 


64 


65 


43 


6,4 


17 


4,3 


16 


16,- 


2 10 


40 


— 


86 


20 


58 


1,8 


22 


25,7 


22 


5,3 


3 6 8 


50 


— 


107 


74 


72 


7,3 


28 


17,1 


27 


18,7 


4 3 4 


60 


— 


129 


29 


87 


2,7 


34 


8,6 


33 


8,~ 


5 


70 


— 


150 


84 


101 


8,2 


40 


— 


38 


21,3 


5 16 8 


80 


— 


172 


39 


116 


3,7 


45 


21,4 


44 


10,7 


6 13 4 


90 


— 


193 


94 


130 


9,1 


51 


12,9 


50 


— 


7 10 


100 




215 


49 


145 


4,6 


57 


4,3 


55 


13,3 


8 6 8 



( xliv ) 
Table E. 



Various Foreign Measures of Length, reduced to English Measure. 



1 Dutch mile . . = 


English mile. 


Eng. m. 


Furl. 


Yards. 


orl9« =1° 


3-634= 


3 


5 


16 


1 Belgian post . = 


4-66 = 


4 


4 


61 


14-83=1° 


1 Germ. Geogr. mile = 


4*6 = 


4 


4 


176 


15* =1° 


1 Prussian mile . = 


4-68 = 


4 


5 


96 


14-77=1° 


1 Saxon mile . . = 


4-66 = 


4 


5 


61 


14-83=1° 


1 Hanoverian mile — 


4*6 = 


4 


4 


176 


15- =1° 


1 m. Hesse Darmst. = 


4*66 = 


4 


5 


61 


14-83=1° 



The Prussian or Rhineland foot, which is divided into 12 inches = 12-356 
English inches, or 0*31382 metre. The Prussian ell is 25J Prussian inches 
= 26*256 English inches, or 0*6669 metre. The ruthe is 12 Prussian or Rhine- 
land feet = 4*118 English yards. A Prussian mile is 2000 ruthen = 7*532 
kilometres. 

The Dresden foot = 11*24 English inches, or 14 Dresden feet = 13 English 
feet, nearly. 1 Dresden ell = 2 Dresden feet = 1 ft. 10| inch. English, nearly. 
21 Dresden ells = 13 English yards. 1 Dresden ruthe = 8 Dresden ells = 4*996 
English yards. 

There are two kinds of feet generally used in Holland, viz. the Amsterdam 
foot and the Bhineland foot. The Amsterdam foot is divided into 11 inches, 
and each inch is divided into quarters and eighths. This foot = 11*147 English 
inches, or 0*283133 metres. The value of the Rhineland foot is given above. 
There are three ells used in Holland, viz. the ell of Amsterdam = 27*0797 
English inches; the ell of the Hague = 27*333 English inches; and the ell of 
Brabant =27*585 English inches. 

In Belgium, since 1820, the French decimal system, founded on the metre, 
is generally used. 1 metre = 39*37079 English inches; 1 kilometre =1093*6331 
English yards ; 1 myriametre = 6 miles 5 furlongs 176 yards, English measure. 
1610 metres = 1 English mile. 



A HANDBOOK 



FOR 



TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. 



SECTION I. 



HOLLAND. 

INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 

1. Passports. — 2. Money. — 3. Custom-house. — 4. Travelling in Holland: Posting, 
Diligences, Roads, Railroads, Maps. — 5. Travelling by Water, Trekschuit. — 6. 
Water. — 7. Inns. — 8. General View of Holland. — 9. Dykes. — 10. Canals. — 
11. Polders. — 12. Dunes. — 13. Gardens and Summer-houses. — 14. Dutch 
School cf Painting ; Picture Galleries in Holland. — 15. Some Peculiarities of 
Dutch Manners.— 16. Music, Organs. — 17. Agriculture. 

ROUTES. 

(In the Table of Contents throughout this book the names of places are printed 
in italics only in those Routes where they are described.) 



ROUTE 

1 
2 



PAGE 

, 24 



London to Rotterdam . . . 

Rotterdam to Amsterdam by 
Delft, the Hague, Leiden, and 
Haarlem — Railroad . . . . 28 

3. Amsterdam to Broek and Saar- 

dam 59 

4. Haarlem to the Helder, and back 

to Amsterdam 64 

5. Amsterdam to Utrecht and 

Arnhem — Railroad ; and to 
Nijmegen 69 

6. Amsterdam to Arnhem ... 72 

7. Amsterdam to Groningen, Leeu- 

warden, Harlingen, and Em- 
den; visit to the Pauper 
Colonies of Fredericksoord . . 73 

8. Amsterdam to Bremen ... 77 



ROUTE PAGE 

9. Rotterdam to Utrecht . . . 78 

10. The Hague to Utrecht ... 79 

11. The Rhine in Holland (A) 80 

(a) Rotterdam to Nijmegen 

by the Waal branch . . 81 

(b) Rotterdam to Arnhem 

by the Lek branch . . .83 

12. Arnhem to Kampen by Zutphen 

and the IJssel 85 

13. Rotterdam to Antwerp by 

Dort and Breda ; or by 
water, passing Bergen-op- 
Zoom 86 

N.B. — The Rhine from Nijmegen to 
Cologne and Mayence is described 
under the head of Germany. 



1. PASSPORTS. 

Persons going direct to Rotterdam, or any other Dutch port, may obtain a pass- 
port from the Dutch consul, 123, Fenchurch Street, who makes a charge of 5s. 
If provided with another passport, they had better, at least, secure a Dutch 
minister's signature to it. Little strictness is usually observed in Holland 
regarding passports. After the political events of 1848, however, the police, par- 
ticularly at Rotterdam and its neighbourhood, became very strict about them. 

A Prussian, French, or Belgian passport, properly vise", will answer perfectly 
well for travelling in Holland. 

[n. G.] B 



2 2. MONEY. — 3. CUSTOM-HOUSE. — 4. posting. Sect. I. 

2. MONEY. 

Accounts are kept in guilders and cents. 
The guilder, or Dutch florin, is worth Is. 8d. English. It is divided into 20 
stivers, and into 100 cents : 1 stiver = 5 cents, is worth 1 penny English. 

Cents. Stivers, s. d. 
Silver Coins. — The guilder (or Dutch florin) = 100 = 20 = 1 8 
j guilder (called Vijfjes or 

Quartjes) = 25 = 5 = 5 

T ij guilder or dubbeltje = 10= 2 = 2 

Stuiver or ± guilder = 5=1=01 

Ducatoon " = 315 = 63 = 5 3 

3-guilder pieces = 300 = 60 = 5 

Zealand (Zeeuwsche) rixdollar =260 = 52 = 4 4 
Bixdollar (Eijksdaalder) = 250 = 50 = 4 2 

Dollar (daalder) = 150 = 30 = 2 6 

Agtentwintig = 140 = 28 = 2 4 

s. d. 
Gold Coins.— The "William (Willem) =10 guilders =16 8 

§ Willem = 5 guilders =84 

Ducat = 5 guilders 5 stivers =89 

"When the ducat has its full weight, it is generally taken for 5 guilders 60 
cents; but its current value changes with the value of gold. 5 and 10 guilder 
pieces are no longer (since June 1850) a legal tender. In consequence of which, 
and of the act passed by the Belgian Legislature for the withdrawal of gold coin 
from circulation (see § 19), their value is depreciated both in Holland and 
Belgium. 

The difference between cents and centimes should be borne in mind. Cent, a 
Dutch and Belgian coin, is the ^ of a guilder, or of Is. 8d. Centime, a French 
coin, is the T ^ part of a franc, or of lOd. The cent is nearly equal to 2 centimes, 
and is worth about £ of a penny English. The guilder is worth 2 French francs 
5 sous. 

Travellers should provide themselves with Dutch money at Botterdam, or at 
the first town of Holland they enter, as French coins are not current here as they 
are in Belgium. The new Dutch coins are current also in Belgium, and up the 
Bhine as far as Cologne. 

3. CUSTOM-HOUSE. 

The Dutch custom-house officers are usually civil, and by no means trouble- 
some in examining the baggage of persons not travelling with merchandise. A 
small fee here, as elsewhere, may expedite and tend to lighten the search in the 
traveller's portmanteau, but civility and a readiness to lay open the baggage is 
better still. As a general rule in this and other countries of the continent, persons 
travelling in their own carriage are subjected to very little inconvenience from 
the custom-house officers. 

4. POSTING, DILIGENCES, ROADS, RAILROADS, AND MAPS. 

Posting. — The posting regulations introduced into Holland by the French still 
remain in force, and are nearly identical with those adopted in France and 
Belgium. The charges fixed by the tarif (1834) are 7 Of cents for every horse 
per post, making 1 guilder 41f cents for 2 horses, and 2 guilders 12f cents for 

3 horses, per post. The postilion is entitled to 35f cents per post ; but, as in 
France, is restricted to the sum which the law allows only when he has not 
given satisfaction to his employers. 

Half a post more than the real distance must be paid on entering and quitting 
the Hague and Amsterdam. Where the roads are bad, the postmaster is allowed 



Holland. travelling in Holland. 3 

to attach, an extra horse to carriages ; in some cases, in winter only ; in others, 
throughout the year. 

Disputes about charges and distances may he settled by reference to the Post- 
book published by the Dutch Government, entitled Afstandsioyzer voor de Stations 
der Koninklijke Nederlandsche Paardenposterij . The traveller in Holland is at 
liberty, if he pleases, to demand the strict observance of the laws contained in 
the Post-book, regarding the number of horses and the charges for them. But 
Custom is somewhat at variance with the Post-book ; and it is the common prac- 
tice to charge 1 guilder for each horse per post, and to give 1 guilder also to the 
postilion. This is much dearer than the tariff; but, to make up for it, the tra- 
veller is not bound to take the number of horses required by the tariff, but a 
party of 4 or 5 may be drawn by 2 horses instead of 3. 

The Batch post is somewhat less than 5 English miles. The Dutch league 
(ure gaans), or the distance a man will walk in an hour, is 5555 metres = '6\ 
English miles. 

Diligences. — On all the great roads which have no competing railroad nume- 
rous diligences run several times a-day. They are very precise in the time 
of starting. They belong to private individuals or companies licensed by 
Government. The best are those of Van Gend and Co. ; they are roomy and 
convenient, travel at the rate of about 6 miles an hour, and arc usually drawn 
by 3 horses yoked abreast. If more persons apply for places than can be 
accommodated in the coach, an additional carnage, or " by-chaise," is prepared, 
by which the passenger may proceed at the same rate of fare as by the main 
diligence. 

A job carriage (glaswagen) with 2 horses may be hired for 14 guilders per 
diem when taken for several days in succession, the same sum being charged for 
back fare. The average expense of a hired carriage and horses is about one- 
fourth less than in England. 

Roads. — The high roads connecting the principal towns and villages of Hol- 
land are paved with bricks, and are excellent. The cross or secondary roads 
consist merely of loose sand, and are wretchedly bad, and in wet weather barely 
passable. There are no stones in a large part of Holland; but the want of 
stones is supplied by a small and tough kind of brick called klinkcr, which, 
after the foundation of the road is levelled, are placed edgewise close together, 
and the interstices filled with sand, so as to form a hard, smooth, and level 
highway, very pleasant to travel over. The average cost of making such a road 
is about 17,000 guild., more than 1400?., per English mile. As all heavy goods 
are conveyed by water, the wear and tear on the roads, traversed almost entirely 
by light carriages, is not very great. In many parts the roads run on the tops 
of the dykes ; and, as there are no parapets or railings, there is at least the 
appearance of danger, and accidents sometimes happen. 

The tolls are very high, sometimes equalling in one stage the expense of one 
post-horse. A carriage with 4 wheels and 2 horses pays from 6 to 8 stivers at 
each turnpike ; and a toll generally occurs every 3 miles English. The passage 
money for crossing ferries is also high. 

Railroads (Ijzcren-spoorwcg) are opened from Amsterdam to Haarlem, the 
Hague, and Rotterdam, and from Amsterdam to Utrecht and to Arnheni. 

The latter is to be continued on to Duisbcrg to join the Prussian line to 
Cologne, as soon as the permission and co-operation of the Prussian Government 
can be obtained. The Prussian Government, however, are afraid of the Aachen 
and Coin line being injured by the construction of the Dutch line. The 
engines are made in England. The Dutch railways are generally well managed, 
and the station-houses well arranged. 2nd-class carriages are protected from the 
weather : they are usually fitted up as chars-a-banc. Vigilantes (cabs) and omni- 
buses ply to and from the stations. The porters on the Dutch railways arc not 
by law entitled to any gratuity. 

b2 



4 5. TRAVELLING BY WATER T.REK.SCHUITEN. Sect. I. 

The line from Botterdam to Amsterdam deserves the attention of the engineer, 
from the number of canals which it has to cross, which presented considerable 
difficulty, overcome by ingenious expedients, such as rolling and swing bridges. 
A large part of the line is founded on piles, often under water, and the roadway 
is laid on faggots bound together by stakes and wattles. 

The best English Map of Holland and Belgium is that published by Mr. John 
Arrowsmith in 1835. The best foreign map is that of Casparus Muller. 

There is also a good map of Holland, now rather scarce, on a scale of 25oW> D Y 
Le Clercq, Lieutenant of Artillery, and lithographed by the Eoyal Military 
Academy, 1841. 

5. TRAVELLING BY WATER — TREKSCHUITEISr. 

The canals of Holland are as numerous as roads in other countries, and afford 
the most abundant means of conveyance in every direction. 

Barges, called Trekschuiten [drag -boats), navigate the canals, and convey 
passengers and goods : they are nearly filled by a long low cabin, divided by a 
partition into two parts ; the fore-cabin, called ruim, appropriated to servants 
and common people ; and the after-cabin, or roef, set apart for the better 
classes, and a little more expensive ; it is smaller, and will contain 8 or 10 per- 
sons. The roef has a small open space at the stern, where you can stand upright 
and breathe the air beside the steersman. It is generally fitted up with neatness, 
and may be engaged by a party exclusively for their own use. The barge is 
more commodious for night travelling and less fatiguing than the diligence, and 
the traveller may enjoy a comfortable sleep, provided the gnats permit. It 
must, however, be understood that Dutch people of any station rarely resort to 
the trekschuit. 

The to wing-horse is ridden by a lad (het jagertje), who receives a few cents at 
each stage, and is well paid with a stiver. It is amusing to observe how 
quickly and neatly he passes the numerous bridges, disengaging the towing-rope, 
and fastening it again, without impeding the progress of the vessel. Whenever 
the barge approaches another coming in a contrary direction, the boatmen ex- 
change the two monosyllables " huy " and " vull," indicating which is to go to 
the right and which to the left, and the one drops his rope for the other to pass 
over. 

The advantages of the trekschuit are principally its cheapness. The usual 
cost of travelling by it is about a stiver a mile. 

Its disadvantages are — 1st, That it rarely travels faster than 4 miles an hour ; 
2ndly, Though the banks of the canal are often enlivened by gardens and villas, 
yet it sometimes happens that they are so high as to shut out all view, which is 
very tiresome and monotonous ; 3rdly, The annoyance of tobacco smoke ; and 
4thly, The trekschuit almost invariably stops on the outside of the town to which 
it is bound, and does not enter it : hence you have sometimes to walk more 
than a mile to reach an inn, and are compelled to intrust your luggage to porters, 
who, though they do not deserve the character of thieves, which Mrs. Starke 
bestowed on them, at least are exorbitant in their charges ; so that you are com- 
pelled to pay sometimes twice as much for the carriage of a portmanteau and 
bag into a town as for the whole passage by the boat. 

The railways now established and extending through Holland will gradually 
divert much of the traffic from the old channel of the slow canal and trekschuit ; 
still, notwithstanding all the desagremens, for the mere novelty of the thing, 
no one should visit Holland without making trial of this, the national con- 
veyance. On a fine day it is a very agreeable mode of travelling. Even those I 
who travel in their own carriage should send it round by the road, and take 
their passage in a trekschuit for one stage; for instance, from Amsterdam to J 
Broek or Alkmaar. 

Excepting on the lines where railways are opened, the communication is keptl 



Holland. G. water.— 7. inns. — 8. general view of Holland.' 5 

up constantly between all the great towns of Holland and the intervening places 
by trekschuits. A boat sets out several times a day, starting with the greatest 
punctuality ; and if a passenger be not on board at the stroke of the clock, he runs 
a risk of losing his passage. 

6. DRINKING WATER. 

In the provinces of Holland bordering on the sea the water is generally very 
bad, not drinkable ; and strangers should be careful to avoid it altogether, except 
externally, or they may suffer from bowel complaints, and be delayed on their 
journey. In many parts good drinking water is brought in large stone bottles 
from Utrecht ; so that Utrecht water must be asked for at inns. As a sub- 
stitute for spring water, the effervescent waters of Seltzer, Geilnau, and Fachin- 
gen, all coming from the Brunnen of Nassau, are much drunk at meals ; a large 
bottle costs about 5c?. A very agreeable beverage is formed by mixing these 
waters with Ehenish or Moselle wine and sugar : some consider red Bordeaux 
wine, or a little lemon-juice and sugar, added to the Seltzer water, a more palat- 
able drink. 

7. INNS. 

Holland is an expensive country to live in ; the wages of labour and taxes are 
very high ; the inns are consequently nearly as dear as in England. Notwith- 
standing this, they are, on the whole, inferior to those of most other countries of 
Western Europe. Dutch inns and beds are, however, generally clean. 

Charges. — A bed-room, which may also be used as a sitting-room, costs, on an 
average, from 1 to 3 guilders ; dinner at the table-d'hote, 1^ to 2 guilders ; ditto 
in private, 2 to 3 guilders ; breakfast with tea or coifee, 60 cents. A German 
traveller rates them thus : bed, 1 guilder; breakfast, 10 to 15 stivers; tea, ditto ; 
dinner, with wine, 2 guilders. The dinner-hour, at tables-d'hote, is usually 
4 o'clock. 

The waiter is called Jan throughout Holland. 

From ^ to \ a guilder is given to the servants daily ; but the cleaning of shoes 
and clothes is done by commissionaires, who also serve as laquais de place. They 
are amply paid with 1^ or 2 guilders for a whole day's services, and with 
1 guilder for ^ a day. The Porter (Kruijer), who carries luggage from the coach 
or railway office to the inn, or vice versa, is well paid with 10 stivers. 

The beds, owing to the humidity of the climate, are often damp, and should be 
warmed with the warming-pan, a much employed article in Dutch households. 
The sheets are also dried by being laid over a wicker frame, beneath which a pan 
of peat is burnt. 

8. A GENERAL VIEW OP HOLLAND. 

There is not, perhaps, a country in Europe which will more surprise an in- 
telligent traveller than Holland. Although so near to our coasts, and so easily 
accessible, it is too often passed over by the English in their haste to reach the 
picturesque scenes of the Rhine and Switzerland. The attractions of Holland 
are certainly of a different kind ; but they are of a character so entirely peculiar, 
that, whether a traveller visit this country at the outset or termination of his 
tour, he will be equally sure to find in it what he has not seen before. 

The routes from Rotterdam to Amsterdam, and thence to Cologne, described 
in the following pages, ma;/ be fully explored in ten days or a fortnight ; and there 
is certainly no road in Europe which in so small a space has so many curiosities 
to show, and upon which lie so many cities, great in commerce and renowned in 
history. To a stranger Holland appears hardly endurable as a country to reside 
in, but for a journey of two weeks the universal flatness and the monotony of 
scenery are not tiresome. The aspect of the country is too strange to fatigue, 
and, indeed, in sunny weather, is very fertile in picturesque effects. 

A large part of Holland is a delta, formed of the alluvium deposited by the 



G 8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. Sect. I. 

Eliine and other rivers, in the same manner as the Delta of Egypt has been 
formed by the Nile. The greater portion of it has been perseveringly rescued 
from the water, to whose dominion it may almost be said to belong, by the con- 
tinual efforts and ingenuity of man, and in a long series of years. Much of it is 
mud driven up by the sea, in return for what it carries away from some parts of 
the coast. Were human agency and care removed but for 6 months, the waves 
would, without doubt, regain their ancient dominion — so much of the land lies 
below the level of the sea ; and an extensive tract of the country would be 
reduced to the state of those vast wastes, composed of sand and mud-banks, 
quite unfit for human habitation, which now lie at the mouths of the Nile and 
Mississippi. And yet these fields, gained with such difficulty, and preserved by 
constant watchfulness, from the waters, have been, in more instances than one, 
inundated by their owners during their contests with foreign foes ; and Dutch 
patriotism has not hesitated to subject the land to temporary ruin in the desire 
of preserving liberty. The cutting of the dykes, and opening of the sluice-gates, 
which was resorted to in order to free Holland from Spanish tyranny, was a 
desperate resource, and in itself a national calamity, entailing beggary for some 
years, upon a large portion of the population, owing to the length of time and 
the very great expense which a second recovery of the land from the sea required. 
This glorious sacrifice, however, served to show that it needs not the mountains 
of Switzerland nor the fastnesses of Tyrol to enable a brave people to defend 
their native land. 

Holland may be considered in many respects as the most wonderful country, 
perhaps, under the sun : it is certainly unlike every other. "What elsewhere 
would be considered as impossible has here been carried into effect, and incon- 
gruities have been rendered consistent. " The house built upon the sand" may 
here be seen standing ; neither Amsterdam nor Rotterdam has any better foun- 
dation than sand, into which piles are driven through many feet of superincum- 
bent bog earth ; and to form a correct idea of these and other wonderful cities 
and towns standing on the morass, one must not forget the millions of solid beams 
hidden under ground which support them. "We speak contemptuously of any- 
thing which is held together by straws, yet a long line of coast of several pro- 
vinces is consolidated by no other means than a few reeds intermixed with straw 
wisps, or woven into mats. Without this frail but effectual support, the fickle 
dunes, or sand-hills, would be driven about into the interior, and would over- 
whelm whole districts of cultivated land. In Holland the laws of nature seem 
to be reversed ; the sea is higher than the land ; the lowest ground in the country 
is 24 feet below high- water mark, and, when the tide is driven high by the wind, 
30 feet ! In no other country do the keels of the ships float above the chimneys 
of the houses, and nowhere else does the frog, croaking from among the bul- 
rushes, look down upon the swallow on the house-top. Where rivers take their 
course, it is not in beds of their own choosing; they are compelled to pass 
through canals, and are confined within fixed bounds by the stupendous mounds 
imposed on them by human art, which has also succeeded in overcoming the 
everywhere else resistless impetuosity of the ocean : here, and nowhere else, 
does the sea appear to have half obeyed the command, " Thus far shalt thou go, 
and no further." 

In a very extensive district the canals are brimful of water, which can hardly 
stir, and, when in motion, flows with a current barely perceptible. There is not 
a stone or pebble to be found, and there are no hills, save such as are raised by 
the winds; unless, indeed, we take into consideration those vast artificial moun- 
tains of granite, which have been brought at enormous expense from Norway 
and Sweden, and sunk under water to serve as barriers to the sea. Excepting 
the eastern provinces, the parks of Haarlem and the Hague, and the avenues 
leading from one city to another, the land does not produce much wood ; bu 
then entire Norwegian forests have been buried beneath the mud in the shape o 



Holland. 8. general view of Holland. 7 

piles. " The total of the hydraulic works between the Dollart and the Schcldo 
have been estimated by a competent judge to have cost 300,000, 000^. sterling, 
and form in so small a country a most astonishing monument of human industry." 
—Telford, 

The constant attention which a Dutchman has been obliged to give to main- 
taining in perfect order the great works on which his safety depends, and the 
artificial nature of the country itself which he has formed for his residence and 
support, has given a formal and methodical direction to his tastes in cases where 
Nature would have been better left to herself. Thus trees are often found grow- 
ing, not in the natural way, but as they have been arranged by the plummet and 
line, in rank and file in straight rows and avenues. Their branches are not 
allowed to spread abroad as nature intended, but are cut and clipped till they 
are transformed into green walls, or are even trained into more grotesque shapes. 
By way of improving still further upon nature, the trunks and lower branches 
are sometimes painted over with bright colours in North Holland, partly for the 
sake of cleanliness, partly to preserve them from insects. 

The Dutchman may be said to have made even the wind his slave. It might 
be supposed that the universal flatness, and the absence of those elevations which 
afford shelter to other countries, would leave this at the mercy of every blast 
that blows, to sweep everything before it. So far is this from being the case, 
that not a breath of air is allowed to pass without paying toll, as it were, by 
turning a windmill. These machines are so numerous, that they may be said 
to be never out of sight in a Dutch landscape. In the suburbs of great cities 
they are congregated like armies of giants spreading out their broad arms, as if 
to protect the streets and houses which they overlook. With us they are rarely 
used except to grind corn : in Holland they are employed almost as variously as 
the steam-engine ; they saw timber, crush rape-seeds for oil, grind snuff, beat 
hemp, &c. ; but the principal service which they perform is in draining the land; 
and here the Dutch have most ingeniously set the wind to counteract the water. 
At least one half of the windmills have water-wheels attached to them, which act 
as pumps, and, by constantly raising the water into the canals, alone keep the 
low land dry and fit for cultivation and the habitation of man. As, however, 
experience has shown that a first-rate mill is advantageously applied to raise 
water only 1 ell (=3*28 ft.) at once, 3 or 4 are often planted in a row on 
stages one above the other, each pumping up the water to the stage above it. 
They are constructed of much larger dimensions than with us : a single sail is 
often 120 feet long, and the usual length is 80 feet. There are said to be 9000 
of these windmills in Holland, and the annual cost of them is valued at 
3,600,000 dollars. 

It will, indeed, be soon discovered, while visiting either the towns or the 
country parts of Holland, that the inhabitants do not subject themselves to the 
unceasing menial labour which characterises the Flemings, Germans, and even 
the English. A windmill pumps the water out of the polders ; a horse drags 
passengers and merchandise to and fro on the canals ; a street porter is scarcely 
ever seen carrying a burden, He uses first a wheelbarrow, and, when he becomes 
rich enough to buy a horse, he has it harnessed to a sledge, on which he drags 
the burden along the streets. 

To sum up all, to such an extent do paradoxes prevail in Holland, that even 
the cows' tails, in other countries proverbial for growing downwards, and descend- 
ing in the world as they advance in ago, here grow upwards : for, with the view 
of promoting the cleanliness of the animal while in the stall, the tail is tied up 
to a ring in the roof of the stable. This may be seen in Brock and elsewhere in 
Holland. (See Route 3.) 

Many authors have exorcised their wit or spleen in describing this singular 
country. Thus, Voltaire took leave of the land and people in these sarcastic 
words : " Adieu ! canaux, canards, canaille." 



8 8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. — 9. DYKES. Sect. I. 

The following verses are from the works of Andrew Marvel : — 

" Holland, that scarce deserves the name of land, 
As but the oft'scouring of the British sand, 
And so much earth as was contributed 
By English pilots when they heav'd the lead ; 
Or what by the ocean's slow alluvion fell, 
Of shipwreck'd cockle and the muscle-shell ; J 

This indigested vomit of the sea 
Fell to the Dutch by just propriety. 

; Glad, then, as miners who have found the ore, 
They, with mad labour, fish'd the land to shore, 
And div'd as desperately for each piece 
Of earth, as if 't had been of ambergris ; 
Collecting anxiously small loads of clay, 
Les than what building swallows bear away ; 
Or than those pills which sordid beetles roll, 
Transfusing into them their dunghill soul. 

" How did they rivet with gigantic piles, 
Thorough the centre their new-catched. miles! 
And to the stake a struggling country bound, 
Where barking waves still bait the forced ground ; 
Building their watery Babel far more high 
To reach the sea, than those to scale the sky. 

" Yet still his claim the injur'd Ocean lay'd. 
And oft at leap-frog o'er their steeples play'd ; 
As if on purpose it on land had come 
To show them what's their mare liberum. 

" A daily deluge over them does boil ; 
The earth and water play at level coil. 
The fish ofttimes the burgher dispossess'd, 
And sat, not as a meat, but as a guest ; 
And oft the tritons and the sea-nymphs saw- 
Whole shoals of Dutch serv'd up for Cabillau ; 
Or, as they over the new level rang'd, 
For pickled herring, pickled herring chang'd. 
Nature, it seem'd, asham'd of her mistake, 
Would throw their land away at duck and drake." 

The author of Hiidibras describes Holland as 

" A country that draws fifty feet of water, 
In which men live as in the hold of nature, 
And when the sea does in upon them break, 
And drowns a province, does but spring a leak." 

And its inhabitants — 

" That always ply the pump, and never think 
They can be safe, but at the rate they sink • 
That live as if they had been run aground, 
And when they die are cast away and drown'd : 
That dwell in ships, like swarms of rats, and prey 
Upon the goods all nations' fleets convey ; 
And when their merchants are blown up and crack'd ; 
Whole towns are cast away in storms, and wrack'd, 
That feed, like cannibals, on other fishes . 
And serve their cousin-germans up in dishes. 
A land that rides at anchor, and is moor'd, 
In which they do not live, but go aboard." — Butler. 

9. DYKES. 

Holland includes some of the lowest land on the continent of Europe. To 
keep out the ocean from the sea-bound provinces, and prevent its acquiring 
territory which seems to be its own, immense dykes or ramparts of earth and 



Holland. 9. dykes. 9 

stone arc raised along the coast, so broad and strong as to prevent the water 
passing through them, and sufficiently lofty to bid defiance to inundation at high 
tide. The rivers and inland lakes in many parts of the country are quite as 
dangerous as the sea, and their waters require to be restrained by dykes nearly 
as extensive as the sea-dykes. 

The first thing necessary in the construction of these bulwarks is, to secure a 
solid foundation, sufficiently strong to support the immense weight to be laid 
upon it, by ramming down the soil, and by laying a substratum of clay, or by 
driving in piles when it is incoherent. Were the foundation porous, the water 
woidd undermine it, and the dykes sink down into a hollow. The foundation 
of a sea-dyke is from 120 to 150 feet in width. The rampart itself is composed, 
as far as possible, of clay : whenever that material is difficult to procure, the face 
of the dyke is made of clay, and the interior of earth, sand, and clay ; but clay 
alone is preferred, as being water-proof. The face of the dyke on the water side 
is made to slope very gradually ; in river dykes generally rising 1 foot in 4 or 6, 
and in the great sea-dyke of Kappel still more gradually, or 1 foot in 13. This 
very gradual slope is owing, both to the loose nature of material used, and to an 
opinion that it is better to allow the force of the wave to expend itself over a 
long incline. The dyke is protected, or in a manner thatched, by willow twigs 
interwoven so as to form a sort of wicker-work, and the interstices are filled up 
with clay puddled to render it compact. This wicker-work is renewed every 
three or four years, occasioning a considerable consumption of willow boughs, 
and the willow-tree is cidtivated to a great extent for this purpose. The dykes 
are frequently planted with trees, as their spreading and interlacing roots assist 
greatly in binding the earth together. The base is often faced with masonry, 
and protected by vast heaps of stones usually brought from Norway, and by rows 
of piles 16 feet long, projecting 6 or 7 feet above ground, connected by timber, 
and filled in with fascines weighted with stones : the upper part of the dyke is 
covered with turf, and rises sometimes to the height of 40 feet. A road rims 
along the top, or immediately within it. 

" The dykes, when seen only at one spot, may probably not strike the merely 
cursory observer as very extraordinary ; but when it is recollected that the 
greater part of Holland is fenced in by similar bulwarks equally massive and 
costly, they will appear wonderful." — /. W. C. The most stupendous of these 
embankments arc the Dykes of the Helder (see Route 4), and of West Kappel, 
at the W. extremity of the island of Walcheren (see Route 18). The annual 
expense of keeping in repair each of them alone amounts to 75,000 guilders 
(about 6400/.) ; while the sum total annually expended throughout Holland in 
the repair of dykes and regulation of water-levels varies from 5,000,000 to 
7,000,000 guilders (nearly 600,000/.). A special corps of engineers called Water - 
staat, including among them many men of science, having received a special 
instruction in the new college at Delft, are employed entirely in watching the 
state of the waters and guarding against all accidents from irruptions, — a most 
important duty, upon which the national welfare, and, indeed, existence, of 
Holland may be said to depend. During the winter they are stationed near 
those spots where danger is most to be apprehended, and magazines arc erected, 
provided with the necessary stores and implements, so as to be ready at a mo- 
ment's notice. 

The winter is the season most liable to accidents, when it not unfrequently 
happens that long prevailing S.W. winds, acting on the surface of the Atlantic, 
drivo an accumulation of waters round the north of Scotland into the German 
Ocean. If these are succeeded by very violent tempests blowing from the N.W., 
the effect is, to propel the sea with great violence southward through the British 
Channel : but the straits of Dover are too narrow to admit the augmented body 
of water readily to pass, and in consequence it falls back upon the coast of Hol- 
land. At such moments the " broad ocean" may truly be said "to lean against 

b3 



10 9. dykes. Sect. I. 

the land," and the strength of the dykes alone preserves it from submersion. 
To guard against such an assault the utmost energy, activity, and skill are 
required. Watchmen are posted day and night along the line of threatened 
attack, to give instantaneous warning if symptoms of weakness are anywhere 
observed in the ramparts ; and workmen are appointed by the authorities to be 
in readiness in the neighbouring villages. 

It may easily be imagined with what intense anxiety the rising tide is, at such 
times, observed. The accumulation of waters in the ocean causes them to ascend 
far above the ordinary high- water mark ; and if they only surmount the top of 
the dyke so as to flow over it, its ruin is inevitable. "When such a calamity is 
anticipated, the alarm bell is rung, and every man hastens to his post. With 
the utmost rapidity, an upper rampart is constructed upon the top of the dyke, 
to keep out the waters. It is incredible in how short a time a bulwark of this 
kind is elevated ; it is a race between the tide and the embankment. If the 
strength and solidity of the dyke be doubtful, and a breach be apprehended, 
large sheets of sailcloth or mats of woven straw and rushes are laid on the out- 
side, in the same manner as a leak is sometimes stopped in a ship. This prevents 
the earth's being washed away by the action of the waves. It must be remem- 
bered that the works, raised at such an emergency, vast as they are, are only 
temporary, and are removed whenever the clanger is past. Instances are not 
rare in which these precautions have proved quite ineffectual ; and whole dis- 
tricts have been overwhelmed and lost for ever in the sea, or in the Rhine and 
its branches. The greater part of the space now occupied by the Zuider Zee 
was dry land down to the 13th century. In the time of the Romans the IJssel 
emptied itself into the lake Flevo. Beyond this lake, to the S. and W., the 
Zuider Zee, then also a fresh- water lake, discharged itself by a river, the Vlie, 
which followed nearly the present channel of that name, entering the ocean 
between what are now the islands of VTieland and Ter-schelling. The action of 
the waters gradually destroyed the tract of land which divided these lakes. In 
1170, during a great flood, the waters of the southern lake rose to the gates of 
Utrecht, and the lake was greatly extended, especially towards the 1ST. West 
Friesland, it is said, however, still stretched across the Zuider Zee from Petten 
and Meclemblick to the Lauwer Zee. From that time, for upwards of 200 years, 
it continued to increase, swallowing up " whole forests and many thousand acres 
of land, so that large ships might be navigated where carriages used to travel." 
At last, in 1396, Lake Flevo entirely disappeared, the existing islands were 
formed, or completely separated from the mainland, and the Zuider Zee con- 
verted into an arm of the German Ocean. The Gulf of Doilart, in the province 
of Groningen, was the result of the inundation of 1277, which swallowed up 44 
villages. Similar calamities have several times produced the same effects in that 
province. Even so late as 1717, 1560 habitations disappeared beneath the 
waters of the ocean, which had thus broken its bounds. The Biesbosch, near 
Dort, and the sandbanks near South Beveland, called Verdronken Land (drowned 
land), are two other examples of submerged districts. 

Of all the united provinces, Friesland and Groningen have suffered, and 
continue to suffer, most from floods. The annals of Friesland present the 
most extraordinary series of disasters from the ocean, and these, better 
than anything else, will serve to show by what an unstable tenure the 
Dutch hold the land. " Friesland was inundated in 533, 792, 806, 839, 
1164, 1170,. 1210, 1221, 1230, 1237 (this year the island called Vlieland 
was formed), 1248, 1249, 1250 (the consequence of this inundation was a 
pestilence, which destroyed several thousand persons), 1277 (this vear the 
Gulf of Dollart was formed)— in 1287 the Zuider Zee assumed its present ex- 
tent and shape, and 80,000 persons lost their lives in the inundation— 1336, 
1400, 1421, 1429, 1516, 1524 (three iniindations in this year), 1530, 1532, 1559, 
1570. On Nov. 1 an inundation occurred which covered even the heights 



Holland. 9. dykes. — inundations of the Rhine. 11 

called Wieren, and cut off, in different parts of Holland, 100,000 persons, 30,000 
of whom were Frieslanders. From this year the inundations are less frequent ; 
as an improved method of constructing the dykes was then introduced by the 
Spanish governor Eobles, who at the same time passed a law that they should 
in future be kept up by the owners of the land. Those recorded since 1570 
were in 1610, 1675, 1717, 1776, and Feb. 5, 1825." — Gauthier, Voyageur dans les 
Pays-Bas. 

But Holland is exposed to far greater danger from internal inundations than 
even from inroads of the sea, arising from the stopping up of the rivers by the 
ice when the thaw sets in. All the ice of the Rhine and Mouse must necessarily 
pass the Dutch rivers ; if then it happens that the ice on the German Rhine get 
loose before the Dutch rivers are free, or if the ice is stopped in its course in a 
narrow part, it forms itself into one solid dam, stretching across from one bank 
to the other, sometimes 2 miles or more in length, adhering closely to the bed of 
the river and rising in icebergs high above its surface, so as to arrest the passage of 
the water, which, as it rises, must necessarily overflow the dykes behind it. In 
1799, when the very existence of a large part of Holland was threatened by an 
inundation from this source, more formidable perhaps than any other on record, 
the Rhine rose at Nijmegen 7 feet in one hour ; and when the accumulated waters 
at last broke the ice-dam, they hurried down icebergs so tall as to conceal the 
houses of Nijmegen from the view of those on the opposite bank. At the mo- 
ment the dam burst, the river was filled with ice to the bottom, which, as it 
scraped along, carried off the gravel with it. So extensive and numerous were 
the dyke ruptures that a large part of Holland on both banks of the Rhine and 
Waal was laid under water ; the icebergs crossed the polders, sweeping away 
houses built on the dykes, and the loss of life of men and cattle was enormous. 
Holland is much more liable to river inundation since the improvements in the 
course of the Upper Rhine and the removal of the impediments at the Bingen 
Loch, as more water now passes in a* given time than formerly. The danger 
now recurs every winter, especially when a hard frost, during which much snow 
has fallen in Germany, is followed by a sudden thaw. 

The winter of 1824-25 was one of the most calamitous to the country known 
for many years. Amsterdam itself was threatened from the great height of the 
tides, which rose far above the usual level. The 1st of February, 1825, was a 
day of great anxiety : had the sea continued to rise a quarter of an hour longer 
the dyke must have been overflowed, and perhaps have given way, and Amster- 
dam would have suffered a calamitous inundation. Fortunately, in a moment 
when the danger was most urgent, the tide stopped, and the great pressure was 
immediately dmiinishcd and removed from the sea-wall ; but the lower part of 
the town had already been laid imder water. The injuries done at that time in 
the province of Holland were immense ; but by Dutch industry all the damage 
was repaired within 2 years. {Gedenkboek van Necrlands Watersnood, in Feb. 
1825, door J. C. Beijer, 2 vols. 8vo. te s' Gravenhage, 1826. It contains a notice 
of the more remarkable recorded floods in the Netherlands from the commence- 
ment of the Christian era to the great flood of 1825.) The arms of one of the 
United Provinces is a lion swimming, with the motto, Luctor, et emergo, " I 
strive, and keep my head above water." It might be generally applied to the 
whole country, which has to maintain a perpetual struggle for existence against 
difficulties never to be entirely removed. The inhabitant of the provinces bor- 
dering on the sea or the Rhine, constantly threatened with the danger of sub- 
mersion, is not more secure than he who dwells on the side of Etna, or at the 
foot of Vesuvius, with a volcano heaving beneath him. A stranger can have a 
full impression of this only when he walks at the foot of one of those vast dykes, 
and hears the roar of the waves on the outside, 16 or 20 feet higher than his 
head. Some parts of the country lie several feet below the actual bed of the 
Rhine; as, for instance, the Ablasserwaard, near Gorcum. Indeed, the industry 



12 9. DYKES. — 10. canals. Sect. I. 

of the early inhabitants of Holland in restraining their rivers between dykes, so 
as to prevent periodical inundations, threatens their descendants with a serious 
calamity at no distant period. It is the nature of all rivers liable to inundation 
to deposit great part of the sullage on their immediate banks, and raise them 
higher than the morass behind. Their beds, too, are continually raised by the 
deposit of the earthy particles mechanically suspended in the water. Hence the 
Rhine and other great rivers now flow along the ridges of great causeways or 
natural embankments formed of the deposit brought down by them in the course 
of ages, and far higher than the surrounding country. This must in all pro- 
bability be broken through some day or other, and the Rhine will find a new 
outlet to the sea. The same effect may be seen in the Po and Adige. See 
Handbook for N. Italy. 

The expense of maintaining the dykes is supported by taxes levied by com- 
missioners appointed for the purpose. 

10. CANALS. 

Holland is so intersected with canals, that to a person looking down upon it 
from a balloon they would have the appearance of a network extending from one 
end of the country to the other. They serve, 1st, as the means of communica- 
tion ; every little town and village having its own system of canals, which con- 
nect it with all the places around. 2dly, as drains to carry off the superfluous 
water of the country. 3dly, in the place of walls and hedges : fields, gardens, 
and houses are surrounded by canals or moats, as in other countries by fences ; 
and they afford an equally good protection. 

The canals differ considerably from those of England, which are measured out 
so as barely to admit two narrow barges to pass, and interrupted at short dis- 
tances by locks. In Holland, as the canal is the drain as well as the highway 
of the country, and rids the land of its superabundant moisture, there is no re- 
striction to its breadth ; and as there is little variation of level, few locks are 
required : but those canals which empty themselves into the sea are provided 
with sluice-gates to prevent the influx of the tides, which are often higher than 
the waters of the canal itself. 

The several heights of the waters of Holland are referred to the Amsterdam 
Pile, which is considered to have been the mean height of the water in the IJ 
in the century before last, but high water in those days was 2 or 3 inches above 
the present level. 

The principal canals are 60 ft. broad and 6 ft. deep. Not only the surface, 
but even the bottom, is frequently higher than the adjoining land. The North 
Holland ship canal is truly one of the marvels of the country, and should be 
viewed by every traveller who visits Amsterdam. In its dimensions it is the 
largest not only in Holland but in Europe (Route 3). 

The discovery of the lock, an invention altogether modern, and which has 
given an entirely new feature to the inland navigation of Europe, has been 
claimed both by the Italians and the Dutch. " There is strong reason to believe 
that in Holland the lock was known, and in use, at least a century before its 
application in Italy." — Telford : Edin. Cycl. Inclined planes for transferring 
vessels from one level to another, similar to those in China, under the name of 
rolling bridges, have been long known in Holland. The object seems to have 
been, not so much to overcome a difference of level, as to prevent the transfer- 
ence of water from one tract of country to another, on account of the jealousy of 
drainage. One of the most remarkable of this kind is the Overtoon, between 
Amsterdam and the Haarlem Meer, which is preferred on account of the interest 
which the city of Haarlem has in continuing the ship navigation through the 
ancient sea sluices of Sparendam. (On the subject of this section see the "article 
" Navigation Inland" in the Edin, Cycl. It was contributed by the celebrated 
engineer Telford,) 



Holland. 11. polders. 13 

11. POLDERS. 

Polder is the name given to a piece of ground below the level of the sea or 
river, which, having once been a morass or lake (plus, Anglice plash), has been 
surrounded by embankments, and then cleared of the water by pumps. So 
large a part of Holland and Belgium was originally in the condition of morass, 
that whole districts are composed entirely of polders partitioned off by dykes or 
ramparts ; and the ground thus drained is usually remarkable for its richness 
and fertility. Many of the polders in the Rijnland, or district around Leiden, 
are 32 ft. below the sea. 

Besides the natural lakes, the extent of surface covered by water has been 
much increased by digging for fuel. The natural fuel of the Netherlands is 
peat, the brown spongy peat obtained from the higher bogs (hooge veenen, or 
fens) of Friesland, and the black, solid, and more earthy peat of the low mosses 
(laage veenen) of North Holland. The surface of the bogs of the latter country 
is rarely above the level of the sea. From Rotterdam to the Helder they cover 
a very large area, and have proved rich mines of fuel for many ages. But where 
the peat was extracted stagnant water took its place. Scooped up from beneath 
this gathering water as long as any available turf existed, or as long as it could 
easily be reached, the quaking bogs were succeeded by lakes, often from 12 to 
20 ft. deep below low water, — sometimes of considerable extent, scattered in 
numbers over the country, and frequently separated only by narrow intervals of 
unsteady land between. 

In draining one of these morasses, or inland seas, and rendering it fit for cul- 
tivation, the first operation consists in damming it in with a rampart of earth 
sufficiently strong and high to prevent foreign water from flowing into it. Out- 
side this rampart or dyke a ringsloot or surrounding drain is made, of dimensions 
sufficient to be a navigable canal. Windmills are then erected on the edge of 
the dyke, each of which works a water-wheel. Pumps are very seldom used in 
draining, as the water is usually highly charged with silt, and is not required to 
be raised a very great height. The instruments employed are, the scoop-wheel, 
the screw of Archimedes, and the inclined scoop-wheel, or Eckhardt wheel. 
When a great undertaking of drainage is going on, houses are erected in a 
convenient situation on the dyke, where the engineers and a committee of the 
proprietors constantly reside, and carefully watch the progress which the wind- 
mills are making. In most cases the undertakers are compelled by government 
regulations to complete the drainage at a certain period of the year, for the 
very obvious reason that, if the ground were not cleared of the water until the 
beginning of the summer heat, the exhalations would materially increase the 
marsh fevers which generally prevail in the first years of an extensive drainage. 

The mills raise the water from the marsh to the ringsloot or canal, which con- 
veys it to a river or to the sea. But most frequently the whole of this great 
operation cannot be performed at once : and where the marshes are of too great 
a depth below the surrounding country, two or three dykes and as many canals 
are made, at different levels, rising by degrees to the upper canal, in which the 
whole terminates. In the Schcrmer-Mecr, for instance, there are four stages of 
canals. Every piece of ground forms a long parallelogram, separated from the 
next by a broad deep ditch, which, in reality, is a first canal. This serves to 
convey part of the harvest ; to carry off the water which, but for this, would 
continue on the ground ; but, above all, as an enclosure, which renders it un- 
necessary to g\iard the flocks, which seldom attempt to pass over this obstruc- 
tion. The canals communicate, by means of the above-mentioned mills, with 
those of the second stage along the roads ; lastly, two or three upper canals 
traverse the whole of the polder, like great arteries, carrying all these lower 
waters into one grand canal made below the dyke, and immediately connected 
with the sea. These canals, on four different levels, aro, in general, completely 



14 11. poldees. Sect. I. 

separated, but are made to communicate whenever it is desired, and the precise 
proportion which is thought necessary may he established between them. 

" It is easy to conceive the extreme fertility acquired by land managed in this 
manner. Formed originally of mud, which was itself rich, it is covered almost 
all the year round with herbs which contribute to its fertility. All the water 
which might be injurious is drawn off at pleasure, by means of the mills, and a 
regular and gradual irrigation is introduced at the most favourable moment. 

" The appearance of the polder itself, when you have got into it, is very dif- 
ferent from the upper country ; and, though more remarkable, it is decidedly 
less agreeable. Each object reminds you that you are at the bottom of a lake, 
on a factitious soil, where everything is calculated. When the draining is 
finished, the undertakers have very regularly portioned out the conquest they 
have made from the waters ; they have divided and subdivided it into perfectly 
equal parts : they have dug canals, made roads, planted trees in perfect right 
lines, proscribed all curves, all variation in the distance, and placed at the head 
of each farm a square habitation, which is always similar to its neighbour. Very 
accurately surrounded with 20 trees, often fine, but never graceful, these re- 
doubts resemble neither farm-houses, which would be less carefully kept, and 
more animated, nor country seats, where something could be dedicated to plea- 
sure. Their large roofs, coming down nearly to the ground in four equal slopes, 
rest upon brick walls, which are always neat, but never elegant. They look as 
if they had just sprung up like mushrooms among the tufted grass which sur- 
rounds them, and which seems never to have been trodden under foot." — A 
Journey in Worth Holland. 

In forming an idea of the power which will be required to bale out the water 
from a lake, or to maintain it in the state of a polder, three considerations are to 
be taken into account : 1st, The depth of water in the lake at its mean level, 
which indicates the power necessary merely to drain the lake ; 2ndly, The ave- 
rage yearly fall of rain and average yearly evaporation, the difference being to 
be removed by pumping ; lastly, The quantity of spring or ooze water likely to 
make its way into the. hollow land. 

An excellent opportunity will be afforded to the traveller to view the pro- 
cesses of a drainage on the very largest scale in the operations now in progress 
for emptying the great Lake of Haarlem (Route 2) . 

The better class of polders, with a good soil, when richly manured and care- 
fully cleared of weeds, especially those recently redeemed from the sea, are of 
great value, and highly productive as arable land ; but the greater part furnish 
pasture or hay for the cattle, and are by no means of inferior value in this graz- 
ing country. 

Many polders are subjected to annual inundations in the winter time, which, 
however, do no harm, if the water which covers them be not salt, and provided 
it can be removed by the end of May. The proprietors of the polders pay a cer- 
tain sum to be permitted to discharge the water pumped out of them into the 
neighbouring canals. 

It may, at first sight, appear singular that the polders, the source of agricul- 
tural wealth, should be equally important to the country in a military point of 
view ; this is, however, the case. By opening the sluices, cutting the dykes, 
and inundating the low meadows they enclose — a measure fraught with ruin, 
and therefore only resorted to at the last extremity — the Dutch may bid defiance 
to the strongest force brought against them : as, though the depth of water and 
mud upon a submerged polder is sufficiently great to check the advance of an 
army, it is too shallow to admit the passage of any but small boats. It is true 
that a hard frost sometimes converts the water, which serves as a defence in 
summer, into a bridge for the invading foes in winter. By availing themselves 
of the desperate resource of drowning the land to save it, the Dutch pinchased 
their freedom from the yoke of Spain ; and Europe beheld with astonishment the 



Holland. 12. duxes. — 13. gardens and summer*houses. 15 

most powerful monarch in the world, upon whose dominions the sun never set, 
baffled by the hardy efforts of the inhabitants of a country which in extent is 
not much greater than Yorkshire. In a following- age, 1672, at a time when 
most of the provinces had opened their gates in consternation to Louis XIV., 
Holland opened to him her sluices, and was thus preserved from French tyranny. 
She has made the same sacrifice with equal success at various other periods of her 
history ; and even in 1830-32 everything was prepared to inundate the country, 
in the event of an inroad of the French army into Holland, which was at that 
time threatened. 

12. DUNES. 

The Dunes, or sand-hills, which extend along the coast of Holland from Dun- 
kirk, nearly without interruption, to the Holder, varying in breadth between 
1 and 3 miles, and rising sometimes to 40 or 50 ft. in height, are formed en- 
tirely by the action of the wind blowing up the sand of the sea-shore ; they are 
a source of good and evil to the country ; they serve as a natural barrier to keep 
out the ocean, — a benefit which, but for the ingenuity and contrivance of man, 
would be more than counterbalanced by the injury done by their progress 
inland. On the sea-shore they arc mere loose heaps, driven about by every 
blast, like snow-wreaths on the Alps ; and, were they not restrained, would 
move onward year after year and inundate the country. In passing over a 
desert of this kind at Schevcning, on a windy day, the atmosphere appears dim 
with the particles of sand blown like smoke through the air. The height of the 
dunes depends upon the fineness of the sand, as the wind has, of course, the most 
power in transporting the minuter particles. Camperdown, memorable in the 
naval annals of Britain, is one of the loftiest on the whole coast, owing to this 
cause. 

To check the dispersion of the sand, and the evil attending it, the dunes are 
sowed regularly every year with plants congenial to it, for even sand has a vege- 
tation peculiar to itself, which may be called luxuriant : but a species of coarse 
rced-grass, or scabent, which grows near the sea (Arundo arenaria), whose 
roots sometimes spread to a distance of 30 ft., is principally employed, and 
to greatest advantage. In a short time the roots spread and combine, so as to 
hold fast the sand, and cover the surface with a succession of verdant vegetation, 
which, growing and decaying on it, accumulates upon it a layer of earth capable 
at length of producing a crop of excellent potatoes, and even of supporting plan- 
tations of firs. Most of the plants thus cultivated on the dunes may be seen in 
the Botanic Garden at Leiden. 

Before the attempt was made to arrest the progress of the sand, it had ad- 
vanced, in the course of centimes, far into the interior ; and it has recently been 
found worth while, in some instances, to dig away and remove the superincum- 
bent hillocks, and lay bare the good soil buried by them : since, on being again 
exposed to the air and light, it is found to be still fertile and productive. (As to 
the subjects treated of in Sections 8-12, see Art. VI., Edin. Rev., Oct. 18-17, 
vol. lxxxvi. p. 419.) 

13. GARDENS AND SUMMER-HOUSES. 

Though the charm of variety of aspect and inequality of surface has been 
denied by nature to Holland, compensation is made for this, in a certain degree, 
by the high cultivation of its fields and gardens. In whatever direction the 
traveller passes through the country, and whether by road or canal, he will find 
the way enlivened by country seats (buitcn plaatsen) and pleasure-gardens ; in 
the laving out and maintaining of which great wealth is expended, though they 
do not always show much taste. They present the most perfect pictures of 
prettiness, with their meandering walks and fantastically cut parterres, tilled with 
flowers of gaudiest hue. If possible, each garden is provided with a fish-pond ; 



16 13. GARDENS AND SUMMER-HOUSES. Sect. I. 

and, if it be wanting, the first step which a Dutch proprietor invariably takes, 
upon entering a newly- acquired demesne, is to dig a large hole that he may 
convert into a pond ; so great an attachment does he appear to have for that 
element which surrounds him on all sides, which is never out of his sight, and 
which invariably stagnates before his door in the shape of a canal. At the ex- 
tremity of the garden a pair of iron gates is erected, often more for ornament 
than use. Through these, or through a gap made purposely in the hedge, the 
passer-by is admitted to spend his admiration on the beauties within, — on the 
pyramids of flower-pots, trim box borders, and velvet lawns and grass-plots. At 
the very end of the garden, overlooking the high road or canal, a summer-house 
is always placed, called zomerhuis (summer-house), tuinhuis (garden-house), or 
koepel (cupola) ; this is the resort of the family in spring and summer after- 
noons. Here the men smoke their pipes and sip their beer, coffee, or tea ; the 
old ladies ply the knitting needle, and the young ones amuse themselves with 
eyeing and criticising the passers-by. In the neighbourhood of all the large 
towns, the citizens and tradespeople, who have their shops and counting-houses 
in the crowded and narrow streets, generally have such a pavilion in a small 
garden on the outskirts, even though they have no house attached to it, to which 
they can retire when the business of the day is over. Yery frequently, on enter- 
ing the town, the traveller passes through a whole street of such gazabos. By a 
peculiarity of taste, • they are invariably placed in a stagnant ditch, which is 
usually covered with a luxuriant crop of green duckweed, and often offends the 
nose by the noisome odours which it exhales. The consequence is, that ere the 
sun goes down, however warm the evening, these ditch-bestriding pleasure- 
houses must be abandoned to the neighbourly frogs ; and they who should 
venture to prolong their evening recreations beyond a certain hour might pay 
for their temerity with a fever produced by the unwholesome exhalations which 
then begin to rise. 

" These little buildings are so very numerous as to form a characteristic- 
feature of the country. Each villa has its name or some motto inscribed over the 
gateway, the choice of which is generally meant to bespeak content and comfort 
on the part of the owner ; and they afford a source of amusement to the stranger 
as he passes along. Thus, among others, we read, ' Lust en rust,' Pleasure and 
ease ; ' Wei te vreede,' Well contented ; ' Mijn genegenheid is voldaan,' My desire 
is satisfied ; ' Mijn lust en leven,' My pleasure and life ; ' Met zoo kwaalijk,' 
Not so bad ; * G-erustelijk en wel te vreede,' Tranquil and content ; ' Vriendschap 
en gezelschap,' Friendship and sociability ; ' Het vermaak is in't hovenieren,' 
There is pleasure in gardening. And over the entrance to one of the tea-gardens 
near Eotterdam was inscribed, 'De vleesch potten van Egypte,' The fiesh-pots of 
Egypt. Some of the larger gardens abound with fruits and vegetables, and beds 
and borders of flowering shrubs and plants are laid out in all the grotesque 
shapes that can be imagined. It must be confessed, however, that an air of 
comfort presides over these villas. Most of the dwelling-houses are gaily painted 
in lively colours ; all the offices and out-houses are kept in neat order ; while the 
verdant meadows are covered with the finest cattle, most speckled black and 
white." — Family Tour in South Holland. 

The following description proceeds from the sarcastic and dashing pen of the 
author of " Vathek," and may be regarded as an amusing caricature of Dutch 
taste : — " Every flower that wealth can purchase diffuses its perfume on one side ; 
whilst every stench a canal can exhale poisons the air on the other. These slug- 
gish puddles defy all the power of the United Provinces, and retain the freedom 
of stinking in spite of any endeavour to conquer the filthiness. But perhaps I 
am too bold in my assertion, for I have no authority to mention any attempts to 
purify these noxious pools. Who knows but their odour is congenial to a Dutch 
constitution ? One should be inclined to this supposition by the numerous ban- 
queting-rooms and pleasure-houses which hang directly above then surface and 



Holland. 14. dutch school of painting. 17 

scorn calculated on purpose to enjoy them. If frogs were not excluded from the 
magistrature of their country (and I cannot but think it a little- hard that they 
are), one shoidd not wonder at this choice. Such burgomasters might erect their 
pavilions in such sitirations. But, after all, I am not greatly surprised at the 
fishiness of their sight, since very slight authority would persuade me there was 
a period when Holland was all water and the ancestors of the present inhabitants 
fish. A certain oystcrishness of eye and flabbiness of complexion are almost proof 
sufficient of this aquatic descent ; and pray tell me for what purpose are such 
galligaskins as the Dutch burthen themselves with contrived, but to tuck up a 
flouncing tail and thus cloak the deformity of a dolphin-like termination ? " — 
Beckford. 

14. DUTCH SCHOOL OF PAINTING* — PICTURE-GALLERIES IN HOLLAND. 

One point to which the traveller in Holland ought certainly to direct his at- 
tention is the collections of pictures of the Dutch school. Though specimens of 
its masters are dispersed through all the galleries of Europe, they are nowhere 
seen in greater perfection than in the museums of the Hague and Amsterdam, 
and in the numerous private cabinets in these and other Dutch towns. 

The great excellence of the criticisms on art and descriptions of paintings given 
by Sir Joshua Reynolds in his " Tour in Holland and Flanders," and their utility 
and value to all who would form a correct taste and accurate estimation of paint- 
ings, have induced the editor to incorporate in this work the greater portion of 
them. The quotations are marked by the letter R. 

By way of introduction, his remarks on the Dutch school are inserted here ; 
while those on the Flemish school, and especially on Rubens, are reserved for the 
description of Belgium. On quitting Holland he observes — 

"The account of the Dutch pictures is, I confess, more barren of entertainment 
than I expected. One could' wish to be able to convey to the reader some idea of 
that excellence, the sight of which has afforded so much pleasure ; but as their 
merit often consists in the truth of representation alone, whatever praise they 
deserve, whatever pleasure they give when under the eye, they make but a poor 
figure in description. It is to the eye only that the works of this school are ad- 
dressed ; it is not, therefore, to be wondered at that what was intended solely for 
"the gratification of one sense succeeds but ill when applied to another. 

"A market-woman with a hare in her hand, a man blowing a trumpet, or a 
boy blowing bubbles, a view of the inside or outside of a church, are the subjects 
of some of their most valuable pictures ; but there is still entertainment even in 
such pictures : however uninteresting then subjects, there is some pleasure in the 
contemplation of the truth of the imitation. But to the painter they afford like- 
wise instruction in his profession. Here he may learn the art of colouring and 
composition, a skilful management of light and shade, and, indeed, all the me- 
chanical parts of the art, as well as in any other school whatever. The same 
skill which is practised by Rubens and Titian in their large works is here ex- 
hibited, though on a smaller scale. Painters should go to the Dutch school to 
learn the art of painting as they would go to a grammar-school to learn languages. 
They nrust go to Italy to learn the higher branches of knowledge. 

" We must be content to make up our idea of perfection from the excellences 
which are dispersed over the world. A poetical imagination, expression, cha- 
racter, or even correctness of drawing, are seldom united with that power of 
colouring which would set off these excellences to the best advantage ; and in 
this, perhaps, no school ever excelled the Dutch. An artist, by a close examina- 

* To enter fully into the history of the different schools of art is beyond the purpose and 
scope of this work : but the excellent Handbooks of Painting bv Eugler (Italian schools edited 
by Sir Charles Eastlake, P.H.A., and German and Dutch schools edited by Sir Edmond Head), 
and that of the Spanish and French schools by Sir E. I load, may safely be recommended as indis- 
pensable companions to those who visit the picture-galleries of the Continent.- 



18 14. dutch school of painting. Sect. I. 

tion of their works, may, in a few hours, make himself master of the principles 
on which they wrought, which cost them whole ages, and perhaps the experience 
of a succession of ages, to ascertain. 

" The most considerable of the Dutch schools are Eembrandt, Teniers, Jan 
Steen, Ostade, Brouwer, Gerard Douw, Mieris, Metzu, and Terburg : these excel 
in small conversations ; for landscapes and cattle, Wouwermans, P. Potter, 
Berchem, Buysdael, Hobbema, Adrian Vandervelde, Both, and Cuyp ; and for 
buildings, Vanderheyden ; for sea views, W. Vandervelde jun. and Backhuy- 
sen ; for dead and live game and birds, "Weenix and Hondekoeter ; for 
flowers, De Heem, Vanhuysum, Bachel Euisch, and Breughel ; and for interiors 
and perspectives, Peter de Hooghe. These make the bulk of the Dutch school. 

" I consider those painters as belonging to this school who painted only small 
conversations and landscapes, &c. Though some of those were born in Flanders, 
their works are principally found in Holland : and to separate them from the 
Flemish school, which generally painted figures large as life, it appears to me 
more reasonable to class them with the Dutch painters, and to distinguish those 
two schools rather by their style and manner than by the place where the artist 
happened to be born. 

" Eembrandt may be considered as belonging to both, or either, as he painted 
both large and small pictures. 

"The works of David Teniers jun. are worthy the closest attention of a 
painter who desires to excel in the mechanical knowledge of his art. His man- 
ner of touching, or what we call handling, has, perhaps, never been equalled. 
There is in his pictures that exact mixture of softness and sharpness which is 
difficult to execute. 

"Jan Steen has a strong manly style of painting, which might become even 
the design of Eaffaelle ; and he has shown the greatest skill in composition and 
management of light and shadow, as well as great truth in the expression and 
character of his figures. 

" The landscapes of Euysdael have not only great force, but have a freshness 
which is seen in scarce any other painter. What excellence in colouring and 
handling is to be found in the dead game of Weenix ! 

" A clearness and brilliancy of colouring may be learned by examining the 
flower-pieces of De Heem, Huysum, and Mignon ; and a short time employed in 
painting flowers would make no improper part of a painter's study. Eubens's 
pictures strongly remind one of a nosegay of flowers, where all the colours are 
bright, clear, and transparent." 

So many changes have taken place in the situation and condition of the pic- 
tures described by Sir Joshua, both in private and public collections, since 1781, 
when he travelled, more especially in consequence of the French revolution, as to 
detract from the value of his work as a guide ; and it would only confuse the 
reader to present it entire and in its original form. A careful arrangement and 
selection of the descriptions has therefore been made, after comparing them on 
the spot with the pictures as they exist ; and they are here distributed in the 
places where the paintings are now to be found ; while a great many works of 
art of the highest excellence, not seen by Sir Joshua, but added to the various 
collections since his time, are likewise enumerated. 

15. SOME PECULIARITIES IN DUTCH MANNERS, ETC. 

A voyage round half the globe would scarcely transport the English traveller 
to a scene more strange and enlivening, or more different from what he sees at 
home, than that presented by the streets of a Dutch town. They are so 
thoroughly intersected by canals (grachten), that most of them might properly be 
termed quays, lined with houses and bordered with rows of tall trees. The canals 
swarm with the picturesque craft whose gilt prows, round stems, and painted 
sides are rendered so familiar beforehand by the paintings of Cuyp, Vandervelde, 



Holland. 15. peculiarities in dutch manners, etc. 19 

and other Dutch artists. At intervals the canals arc crossed by drawbridges 
{pphaalbrugerC\ i by which a communication is kept up between one part of the town 
and another. The intermixture of trees, water, shipping, and houses ; the bustle 
of loading and unloading vessels in front of the owners' doors ; and the tall red brick 
houses, with variously pointed gables and variegated tiles, so highly polished 
that they glitter in the sunshine, have a pleasing as well as novel aspect. 

Mirrors. — One of the first things that will strike a stranger's eye in a Dutch 
town are the little mirrors {spions) projecting in front of the windows of almost 
all the houses. They consist of two pieces of glass placed at an angle of 45° 
to each other, the one reflecting up, the other clown the street. By means of this 
contrivance the Dutch lady may see all that passes outside, without the trouble 
of going to the window, or the necessity of exposing herself to the vulgar gaze ; 
and, while she sits ensconced behind the gauze blind, may continue her knitting 
or sewing uninterruptedly. 

Cleanliness. — It may appear paradoxical to say that cleanliness is carried to 
excess in Holland ; but the passion for purifying really runs to such a height 
among Dutch housewives that the assertion is by no means groundless : every- 
thing has an air of freshness, and the stranger in vain looks for a particle of dust. 
It will be productive of some amusement to issue out into the streets of a Dutch 
town early on a Satxirday morning. It is on the last day of the week that an 
extraordinary schoonmaken (cleaning) takes place. Every house door presents a 
scene of most energetic activity — the brushing and mopping, the scrubbing and 
scraping, are not confined to steps and doorways — the pavement, wall, windows, 
however guiltless they may be of impurity, are all equally subjected to the same 
course of ablution. Those spots which are out of the reach of hand or broom do 
not escape a well-aimed stream from the pipe of a small engine-pump, which is 
always reserved for such service. The unsuspecting stranger who walks the 
streets is subjected to the danger of perpetual wettings. He looks up to ascer- 
tain whence the shower descends, and he perceives a diligent servant girl, 
stretched out of a window two-thirds of her length, and, with eyes intently 
turned upwards, discharging bowls full of water upon some refractory stain, im- 
perceptible to all but herself. Spiders must stand a worse chance here than in 
any other country of the globe. Assiduous war is waged against them, the 
weapon in use being a broom as long as a boarding pike ; and the forlorn attempt 
of a solitary spinner to establish himself in the corner of a window, to which 
elsewhere he might be supposed to have a prescriptive right, is immediately de- 
tected and scattered to the winds. The purification docs not end without sub- 
jecting the instrument of cleanliness, the broom itself, however worn out or old, 
to a course of cleansing. Within doors equal purity and precision reign. The 
drawing or state room is a sort of sanctum, seldom entered more than once a week, 
and then only by the housewife and her handmaiden, with list shoos, to avoid 
scratching the polished floor, and soap and water in their hands. No sooner is 
the labour of washing and dusting over than the furniture is covered, the win- 
dows closed, the door locked for another week. In some parts of Holland the 
visitor is obliged to put off his shoes before he enters the house ; but he is every- 
where expected to clean them most carefully before admission is granted. In 
the dairies of North Holland, and especially in the far-famed village of Brock, 
the traveller will have the best opportunity of appreciating the full extent of 
Dutch cleanliucss. It does not, however, require a long acquaintance with the 
Dutch to remark that this persevering and almost painful cleanliness is not 
always extended to their persons, especially among the lower orders, who indeed 
are not more cleanly than the same class in England. Goldsmith, who knew the 
country and people from a residence among them, declares that a Dutchman's 
house reminded him of a temple dedicated to an ox. 

One of the essentials of comfort for a Dutch lady is the Vuw Stoof } a square 
box, open on one side to admit an earthen pan filled with hot embers of turf, 



20 15. PECULIARITIES IN DUTCH MANNERS, ETC. Sect I. 

and perforated at the top to allow the heat to ascend and warm the feet : it serves 
as a footstool, and is concealed under the dress. The use of it is rarely dispensed 
with, whatever he the season, in doors or out — the citizen's wife has it carried 
after her hy her servant to church or the theatre. Hundreds of these fire-pots 
may he seen piled up in the aisles of the churches. 

To announce that sickness is in a house, the knocker is not tied up as with us, 
but a paper is stuck upon the door, containing the daily bulletin of the invalid's 
health, drawn up by a doctor, which prevents the necessity of ringing and the 
chance of disturbing the sick person when friends come to inquire after him. In 
two of the towns of Holland, Haarlem and Enckhuysen, when there is a " lady 
in the straw," a silk pincushion covered and fringed with plaited lace is exposed 
at the door — the sex of the infant is marked by the colour ; if a boy red, if a girl 
white. The house which shows in this manner that the number of its inhabit- 
ants has been increased by a birth enjoys by ancient law and custom various 
immunities and privileges. For a certain number of days nothing which is 
likely to disturb a lady so situated is allowed to approach it. It is protected 
from legal executions ; no bailiffs dare to molest its inmates ; no soldiers can be 
billeted in it ; and, when troops pass it on the march, the drums cease to beat. 

A sort of basket decorated with evergreen, ears of corn, bits of silk and tinsel 
hung out over a shop door, denotes the recent arrival of herrings, much prized 
as a delicacy by the Dutch. 

Before a traveller has been many days in Holland he will probably meet in 
the street a man dressed in black, with a cocked hat and wig, a long crape hat- 
band, and a short cloak : he is called the Aanspreker, and his duty is, on the 
death of any one, to announce the event to the friends or connections of the 
deceased. The stranger, on first arriving in Holland, is liable to be roused out 
of his slumbers at night by a strange clatter in the streets. This is nothing- 
more than the clapper of the Dutch watchman, a wooden board with a flexible 
hammer or tongue attached to it, which he strikes from time to time to give 
warning to all thieves to get out of his way. 

The Kermis (wake or fair) is a sort of Dutch carnival, and exhibits many 
peculiarities of character. The servant-girls, when being hired, always stipulate 
with their masters for a certain number of holidays or kermis-days. They swarm 
at these festivals in company with their " sweethearts ;" indeed, sweethearts are 
regularly hired for these occasions, so that the damsels who have not one for love 
may have him for money. 

The Stork. — One of the peculiarities of Holland is the sort of veneration in 
which the stork (called ooyevaar) is held by the inhabitants. These birds are 
not only never injured or disturbed, but a cartwheel or some other contrivance is 
often placed on the house-top for their use, if not expressly to invite them to 
settle, at least to prevent their becoming a nuisance, since otherwise the bird, 
attracted by the warmth of the fire, wotdd naturally deposit the materials of its 
nest on the chimney -top itself, so as to stop it up, dirty the house, and perhaps 
set it on fire, which the owner prevents by a stand or rest so placed as to allow 
the smoke to escape from beneath it. Their huge nests may be seen perched on- 
the roofs of farm-houses, and even in the town, on the edge of a gable, or near a 
chimney : it is considered a good omen to a dwelling and its inmates if the stork 
select it for its habitation ; and to kill one of these birds is looked upon in hardly 
any other light than a crime. The main army of storks migrate to a southern 
climate about the middle of August, taking with them the young brood which 
they have reared. They return in the spring about the month of May. The 
old ones never fail to seek out their former nests. During a great fire, which, 
in 1536, destroyed a large part of the town of Delft, the storks were seen bear- 
ing away their young ones from their nest through the midst of the flames, and, 
where they were unable to effect this, perishing with them rather than abandon 
them. Several of the Dutch poets allude to this well-authenticated fact. 



Holland, 16. music — organs. 17. agriculture. 21 

Nightingales, and "fa g fo g birds In general, arc also protected from molestation 

in Holland; and bird-nesting, and every other injury to the melodists of the 
W^ood, is severely punished hy local laws, 

16. MUSIC — ORGANS. 

" The lover of music fares meagrely in Holland. National melody and native 
composition seem alike to have disappeared from the country. The operatic 
theatres at Amsterdam and the Hagiw are principally occupied (when open) by 
third-rate German, French, and Italian companies, which may he also met with 
in the smaller towns, shorn, of course, to provincial dimensions. But those who 
arc ' curious in organs' will find much to interest them in Holland. The taste 
for mechanical devices, which has planted bleating clockwork sheep in Mynheer's 
pleasure-garden, has indulged itself, with more dignity, in commissioning for the 
churches instruments grand in scale, and curious in the variety of their com- 
ponent parts. If Holland cannot be said to have possessed a school of organ- 
builders analogous, for instance, to the famous Alsatian family of the Silbcr- 
manns, yet the land possessed, during the last century, several men of renown, 
such as Batti of Utrecht, Christian Muller of Amsterdam (the builder of the 
Haarlem organ), and Hess of Gouda. The organs at Haarlem, Rotterdam, Am- 
sterdam, Gouda, Delft, and Utrecht (and I have been told also at Leeuwarden, 
Beverwijk, and Nijmegen), are all worthy of attention. There arc many treatises 
on organ-building in Dutch. The players seem generally in no respect worthy 
of their instruments, yet the powerful and unisonal psalmody sustained by the 
full organ, and filling the lofty churches with a volume of rich and robust sound, 
treats those attending public worship to a musical effect such as I, at least, have 
heard in no other place." — H. F. G. 

17. AGRICULTURE. 

Owing to the peculiar situation and the nature of the soil of Holland the 
agriculturist has to contend with many difficulties, and consequently to resort to 
many methods and resources not much attended to in other countries. Travellers, 
therefore, who take an interest in agriculture may observe much deserving of 
their attention. Dutch dairy-farms, too, have long been famous. A few of the 
more remarkable peculiarities and features of the agriculture of the Netherlands 
are here pointed out. Those who wish for further information on these subjects 
may consult the following works, from which these observations are extracted : — 
Oa the Agriculture of the Netherlands, Agric. Journal, vol. ii. pp. 43-64- ; vol. 
iii. 240-263. Outlines of Flemish Husbandry — Library of Useful Knowledge. 
British Husbandry, vol. iii. 

The climate of the Netherlands, from the borders of France to the northern 
part of Holland along the coast and for 50 or 60 miles inland, differs little from 
that of Kent or Essex. It is warmer in summer and colder in winter than the 
central part of England. The quantity of rain which falls there is not so great, 
especially in winter, as in those parts of England which lie on the opposite 
• oast; but the snow covers the ground for a much longer time. Hence a ma- 
terial difference exists in the time of ploughing and sowing. 

The quality of the soil is various. Towards the northern part of Flanders and 
Antwerp, and the southern part of Holland, it is almost as barren as the sand of 
the sea-shore. If it were not for a small portion of mud occasionally mixed with 
this soil, the water would freely percolate through it, and no vegetation could 
be supported. In proportion to the quantity of the mud, which is a very tine clay, 
with a portion of decayed shells and organic matter, the soil is more or ! 
tile; and when the mud enters largely into it, a rich compact loam is formed. 
In many places there are alternate narrow strata of sand and loam, which being 
mixed together form a very productive soil. 

When the sand is deep, with little or no loam near the surface, it is a tedious 



22 - 17. agriculture. Sect. I. 

process to bring the land into cnltivation. Much of the sandy heaths which lie 
between Antwerp and the Maas remain in a state of nature, producing nothing 
but scanty tufts of heath interspersed with a few very coarse grasses. Some 
spots have been brought under cultivation by the most indefatigable industry. 
By trenching and levelling, mixing the heavier soils with the sand, by a careful 
addition of manure both solid and liquid, and by first sowing such plants as will 
grow on this barren soil, a stratum of productive soil is gradually collected. If 
manure cannot be had, broom is first sown. This grows on the most barren soils ; 
in three years it is cut for fagots for the bakers and brickmakers. It has some- 
what improved the soil, which is next sown with buckwheat, or even with rye. 
After this, clover and potatoes follow ; and these crops furnishing manure, im- 
provement goes on rapidly. If about 20 small cart-loads of dung can be brought 
on each acre of the newly-trenched ground, the progress is much more rapid. 
Potatoes are then the first crop. Then follows rye, after the land has been 
manured to the same extent as before. In this clover is sown in the succeeding 
spring. After rye comes buckwheat, without any manure ; then potatoes again, 
manured as at first ; and the same rotation of crops follows. 

It is evident how important a good supply of manure is to success in cultivat- 
ing such lando The most rapid improver of loose sands is liquid manure. Ac- 
cordingly, the greatest attention is paid to the collection and preparation of 
manure, more especially of liquid manure. Every farm has one or more capa- 
cious tanks, whose construction will be found worthy of the attention of the agri- 
culturist. The instruments of tillage are few and simple, especially the ploughs, 
which, however, are well adapted to the light soil of the country. An instru- 
ment, called a traineau in Belgium, is used to level the surface of the light soils, 
without too much compressing them. A rodded hurdle is also used for the same 
purpose. The harrows are mostly triangular, with wooden teeth set at an acute 
angle forwards. The mollebart, which is used in the levelling of newly-trenched 
land, is an instrument peculiarly Flemish or Dutch : it is a very large wooden 
shovel, in form like a housemaid's dustpan, with a stout long handle. To fully 
understand its use, it must be seen worked by a skilful hand. The spade and 
shovel are also largely used in the tillage of the Netherlands. Considerable 
attention is paid in the Netherlands, but especially in Flanders, to a proper rota- 
tion of crops. The rotations observed are founded on long experience. Manure, 
both solid and liquid, is applied constantly to the soil in great abundance. It is 
by this means that the character of the poor soils becomes in a few years entirely 
changed. Great attention is paid to the choice of seed. The quantity of seed on 
a given extent of land in the Netherlands is much smaller than it usually is in 
England. This is owing to the greater attention paid to prepare the land for 
receiving the seed. The surface is brought to a finer tilth, by repeated harrow- 
ing with light wooden harrows. Mixed seed is sometimes sown, as a mixture of 
wheat and rye, which, indeed, is known in Yorkshire, where it is called meslin. 
In Flanders it is called meteil. The sowing of carrots amongst a growing crop 
is peculiar to the Netherlands. The Friesland oats are well known in England 
as of a very good quality for brewing, and great crops of them are raised in the 
rich alluvial soils of Holland. Chicory is much cultivated, the dried roots of 
which are roasted and used instead of coffee. The root contains a strong bitter, 
and is used instead of hops in beer. It is sown about the beginning of April, and 
the roots are taken up in September, and are then of the size of a small carrot. 
The leaves, if eaten by cows, give a bad taste to their milk. Flax, hemp, and 
the oily seeds, especially colza or rape, are also extensively cultivated in the 
Netherlands. In many parts of the Netherlands, owing to the constant presence 
of water, the soil is better calculated for meadows than arable land. In these 
meadows, especially in N. Holland and Friesland, a very fine breed of milch 
cows and oxen is fed. The quantity of butter exported, and its value in foreign 
markets, prove that the operations of the dairy are well conducted. The rich 



Holland. 17. agriculture. 23 

soil, no doubt, gives a good quality to the butter ; but tbis is not the only cause 
of its superiority. The extraordinary cleanliness of every part of a dahy, and its 
furniture, show the unremitted attention of the dairy woman. Besides this, the 
stables, the cows, and even the litter, arc kept so clean that it is a pleasure to 
walk through them ; and the family often make one end of the cow-house their 
usual sitting-room, having a fire-place at one end, and always at least one com- 
fortable bed for a labourer or servant, who always sleeps in the cow-house. 

The arrangement of a Dutch dairy is as follows : — The building is generally 
bike a large barn, with a roof coming to within 7 or 8 feet of the ground, some- 
times tiled or slated, but more often thatched with reeds, which make it warm in 
winter. Through the middle, from end to end, is a space 10 or 12 feet broad, 
paved with hard bricks. The heads of the cows are placed towards this middle 
space, from which all their food is given to them in a shallow trough made of 
bricks, with a gentle fall from end to end to allow of sweeping and washing. As 
straw is scarce, the cows lie on smooth bricks laid sloping, and slightly hollow 
in the middle ; and their beds are made of such a length, that when the cows 
stand their tails hang over a gutter to receive the dung and urine. The clean- 
liness is carried to such a degree, that in many cow-houses there are pulleys, and 
lines over them, with a weight at one end, the other being fastened to the end 
of the tail of a cow to keep it up, and prevent its dipping into the gutter behind. 
Everything which falls from the cow is swept away immediately, and the water 
arising from the constant washing of every part of the cow-house runs into a 
tank, and serves to dilute the dung, which, after a time, is pumped up, and either 
earned in water-carts to the meadows, or mixed up with earth and the bitter of 
the horses into compost. 

The cows usually come into their winter quarters in November, and are put 
out to graze in May, if the weather is mild. When first the cows are let out 
into the meadows, a piece of coarse cloth is put over their loins, and tied round 
their bodies, to prevent the injurious effects of cold dews and fogs ; when the air 
is warmer this is discontinued. 

The milk-room is almost always vaulted, and sunk somewhat under the level 
of the ground. The floor is laid with porous tiles, and, being kept wet, the eva- 
poration keeps the cellar cool. The milk is brought from the cow-house in large 
brass vessels in the shape of the Etruscan water-cans, which, when full, cany 
the milk without much shaking. Salt is added to the butter as soon as made : 
no Dutchman would touch butter which had no salt in it, however fresh it might 
be. The butter made in summer, when the cows feed in the pastures, is of a 
very fine golden colour and agreeable taste. When the pastures are not so rich, 
this colour is sometimes given artificially, but the natural coloiu- cannot be 
imitated so as to deceive any but the inexperienced. 

The best Dutch cheese is a new milk cheese made near Gouda, and called 
Gouda cheese. The little round cheeses are made near Edam. Some of the 
cream has been subtracted and made into butter, and the cheese is what would 
be called half-meal cheese in England. It is very strongly salted by soaking it 
in brine. The common skim-milk cheeses have seeds of cummin mixed with 
the curd, and arc made of the size of our Cheshire cheeses. It is a poor cheese, 
and seldom exported. 

Very large oxen are fatted in the rich meadows of N. Holland. They have 
large bones, and are deficient in some points considered essential by the feeder 
for a cattle show ; but the chief object of the breed is milk. The meat is ex- 
cellent. 

The sheep of the Netherlands are almost universally large, long-legged 
animals, with dropping cars, which have nothing but their size to recommend 
them. 

The horses in the Netherlands may be divided into two distinct breeds, — the 
heavy Flanders horses, which are either light chesnut coloured, with white tails 



I 



24 



ROUTE 1. — LONDON TO ROTTERDAM. 



Sect. I. 



and manes, or roan. They are bulky and inactive, and inferior to the Suffolk 
punch, which breed, no doubt, came originally from Flanders, but has been 
improved by care in breeding. The Friesland horses are mostly black, and some 
of them are very strong and active, and will do much work and draw very heavy 
loads. A breed of very fast trotters is encouraged by trotting matches. The 
Dutch waggons are light, with a very narrow track, to accommodate them to the 
narrow roads on the tops of the dykes. A pole would be a great incumbrance in 
turning within a very narrow space ; hence a curious substitute has been adopted. 
A very short crooked pole rises in front, and the driver directs it with his foot. 
A person unaccustomed to its use could never drive a Dutch waggon, which re- 
quires great skill and judgment to steer it. A drunken driver is discovered a 
long way off by the oscillations of his waggon, which frequently runs off the 
dyke, and is overturned into the ditch on either side, the horses having no 
power to keep it straight when the crooked pole has not a steady foot to guide 
the front wheels. The Dutchmen usually make their horses trot in the waggon 
when not heavily loaded. 



KOUTES THROUGH HOLLAND. 



ROUTE 1. 

LONDON TO ROTTERDAM. 

Steamers 3 times a week in summer. 
The General Steam Navigation Com- 
pany's vessels run from Brunswick 
"Wharf, Blackwall, at 10 precisely, 
every Wednesday and Saturday, re- 
turning also on those days. There is 
also another steamer on the same days 
from off the Tower. The Batavier 
goes every Sunday, and returns from 
Rotterdam on Tuesday. The average 
passage is from 24 to 30 hours, and the 
vessel usually reaches the bar at the 
mouth of the Maas in 24. 

The Maas (French Meuse) is the 
estuary through which a large portion 
of the combined waters of the Rhine 
and Meuse find an outlet to the sea. 
The bar at its mouth is at times diffi- 
X3ult to pass ; at low tide there is but 
7 feet water upon it. The first ap- 
pearance of Holland exhibits nothing 
but a strip of land on each side, lite- 
rally " a willow-tufted bank," barely 
raised above the water. 

The low sandy mud bank projecting 
into the sea on your left as you enter 
the Maas is called the Hoek van Hol- 
land. 

I. The small fortified town of Brielle, 
on the left bank of the river (right 
hand in ascending), soon appears in 
sight. Here custom - house officers 



come on board to fasten down the hold 
of the vessel, and to examine the ship's 
papers. There is a ferry over the Maas 
at this place, and the pilots, who carry 
vessels up the river, reside here. It 
was the birth-place of Admirals Tromp 
and de Witt, and is historically re- 
markable as the first place which fell 
into the hands of the Dutch ; having 
been taken from the Spaniards, 1572, 
by a bold attack of the Water GKieusen, 
under the command of William de la 
Marck, who had been expelled from 
the ports of England by Queen Eliza- 
beth. It may thus be considered as 
the nucleus of the Republic of Hol- 
land. This exploit was the first in- 
stance of open resistance to the power 
of Philip II. of Spain, and led the way 
for the liberation of the country from 
the Spanish yoke. In 1585 Brielle 
was delivered up to Queen Elizabeth 
as one of the cautionary towns, and re- 
mained in the hands of the English till 
1616. 

About 5 miles above Brielle is the 
entrance to the New Canal, crossing 
the island of Voorn, by which large 
vessels pass from the Maas to the spa- 
cious harbour of Hellevoetsluis, and 
avoid the dangerous navigation arising 
from the bar at the mouth of the Maas. 
The largest Indiamen reach the sea in 
one day from Rotterdam. At Helle- 
voetsluis is a royal dock and arsenal. 



Holland, 



ROUTE 1 . — BOTTERDA M . 



Zo 



It is the principal naval station of the 
Dutch on the S., being to Rotter- 
dam and the mouths of the Rhine and 
Maas what the Holder is to Amster- 
dam and the Zuider-Zee. William III. 
embarked there for England in 1688. 

rt. Higher up is Vlaardingen, the 
head-quarters of the Dutch Herring 
Fishery, for which it fits out annually 
from 80 to 100 vessels ; the total num- 
ber from the whole of Holland in the 
present reduced state of the fisheries 
falls short of 200. On the 10th or 
11th of June the officers employed in 
the herring fleet repair to the Stadhuis, 
and take an oath to obey the laws of 
the fishery ; on the 14th they hoist 
their flags, and go to church to pray 
for a prosperous season ; on the 15th 
they set sail, and the day is kept as a 
holiday by the townspeople. The 
fishery lasts from June 2 till October 
30. The fish first caught are sent off 
in swift - sailing yachts to Holland, 
where there arrival is awaited with the 
most anxious expectation. "Watchmen 
arc set on Vlaardingen steeple to look 
out for the vessel; the cargo usually 
sells for 800 florins,and the first kegs 
of herrings are sent to the King of 
Holland and his ministers. Still nearer 
to Rotterdam, though not at the river 
side, is Schiedam (12,000 inhab.), 
famous for its distilleries of the finest 
Geneva, of which there are not less 
than 100 in this small town : 30,000 
pigs are said to be fed on the refuse 
grain after the spirit has been extracted. 
The town, surrounded by windmills, is 
never free from the smoke issuing from 
its numerous tall chimneys. 

At a turn of the river Rotterdam 
comes suddenly into sight. The Maas 
in front of the town is from 30 to 40 ft. 
deep, so that the largest India vessels 
approach close to the houses, and the 
steamers land their passengers on the 
fine quay called the Boompjes, extend- 
ing along the river a mile and a quar- 
ter. It is shaded with a line of vigor- 
ous elms, planted 1615, from which it 
gets its name (little trees is the mean- 
ing of the word; though, since the 
name was conferred, they have grown 
to a large size). It may, perhaps, re- 
call to mind Chevne Walk, at Chelsea, 
[n. g.] 



though on a larger scale, with the ad- 
vantage of having deep water close in 
shore. It forms a much frequented 
promenade for the inhabitants of Rot- 
terdam. Some of the best houses and 
principal inns arc situated on this hand- 
some quay. Here also is the Custom- 
house, to which the baggage of travel- 
lers is conveyed (§ 3), but the examina- 
tion is not usually very troublesome. 

Rotterdam. — Inns : Hotel des Pays- 
Bas : — beds, 1 gr. to 1 gr. 10 st. ; break- 
fast or tea, with bread and butter, 
14 st. ; table d'hote, 1 gr. 10 st. ; dinner 
in private, 2£ gr. to 3 gr. New Bath 
Hotel ; charges nearly the same asPays- 
Bas. H. de V Europe. — These three are 
on the Quai called the Boompjes, near 
the steamers. Scheppcrshuis, Spaan- 
sche Kade ; — Zwijnshoofd, on the great 
market; — St. Lucas. 

Rotterdam, the second city of Hol- 
land in population and commerce, lies 
on the rt. bank of the Maas ; it has 
78,000 inhab., and is distant about 24 
m. from the sea. It is built in the 
form of a triangle, one side of which 
rests on the Maas ; it consists of as 
many canals as streets ; the three prin- 
cipal ones called Leuve, Oude, and 
Nicuwe havens (harbours), open into 
the Maas, and communicate with the 
various canals which intersect the 
town ; thus not only affording a con- 
stant supply of water to the canals, but, 
by the ebbing and flowing of the tide, 
keeping up a circulation, and preserving 
the water from becoming stagnant and 
putrid ; the tide rises commonly 10 or 
12 ft. 

The communication between different 
parts of the town is maintained by 
a great number of drawbridges sus- 
pended by heavy beams of wood over- 
head ; but across several of the havens, 
which are too wide for a drawbridge, 
a ferry-boat plies (and 1 cent is charged 
for the passage). The canals serve as 
docks, being deep enough to admit 
vessels of large burden close to the 
doors of the houses and magazines of 
their owners, so that they can discharge 
their cargoes with little trouble ami 
cost. Its ready access to the sea gives 
Rotterdam a great advantage as a port ; 
and since the separation from Belgium 





26 



ROUTE 1. — ROTTERDAM. 



Sect. I. 



it lias been rapidly rising in wealth and 
population, at the expense of its rival 
Antwerp. Indeed, since steam has 
aided inland navigation, the position of 
Botterdam has become superior to that 
of Amsterdam, and it and Hamburg 
now form the great inlets and outlets of 
. Germany. The foreign commerce of 
Eotterdam now chiefly depends on the 
connection with Batavia, and that trade 
at present employs about 80 of the 
finest merchant-ships in the world, of 
the burden of from 500 to 1000 tons. 
They are admirably equipped, and make 
the voyage to and from India in 9 
months upon the average. An increas- 
ing trade is carried on in the valuable 
productions of the East, the chief of 
which are sugar, coffee, and spices. 
The West India trade, formerly carried 
on with Surinam, is almost extinct. 
The trade in provisions is very great : 
much corn is brought down the Ehine 
from the interior of Germany ; and 
from the upper parts contiguous to that 
river a vast supply of timber for ship- 
building is conveyed. This is an im- 
portant branch of industry, at present 
very flourishing, as near 100 of the best 
class of vessels are now building in the 
different dockyards. 

A stranger who has never seen a 
Dutch town before will find more 
amusement in merely walking through 
the streets than in any of the sights 
which guide - books are usually con- 
tented to enumerate. He will be 
struck with the novel and picturesque 
combination of water, bridges, trees, 
and shipping, in the heart of a city. 
He will remark the quaint buildings 
with gables facing the street, and often 
overhanging the foundation more than 
a foot; the canals traversed by innu- 
merable drawbridges opening and shut- 
ting to allow the passage of vessels ; the 
cart running upon sledges instead of 
wheels, with barrows of water placed 
in front, which is jerked out through 
several small holes, so as to sprinkle the 
pavement as the horse moves on, and 
diminish the friction. The shoes of 
the horses, which it is not improbable 
he may compare to pattens ; the wooden 
sabots of the peasants ; the brass milk- 
pails, glistening like polished armour; 



the little mirror fastened before the 
window of every house (§ 15) ; and the 
rude busts of Turks' or Moors' heads 
in front of the chemists' shops, called 
from their open mouths Gapers, are all 
novelties not to be met with in his own 
country. 

An enormous dyke or dam, erected 
at the junction of a small stream called 
the Eotte with the Maas, whence comes 
the name Rotterdam, passes through 
the centre of the town. It originally 
protected the country behind it from 
inundations during high tides of the 
Maas. The Hoogstraat (High Street) 
stands upon this dam ; and the newest 
part of the town is built on the ground 
extending between it and the Boompjes, 
and gained from the Maas since the 
dam was erected. 

The objects worthy of observation 
are, The statue of Erasmus, who was 
a native of this place. It is of bronze, 
and stands on a wide bridge over a 
canal, which serves the purposes of a 
market-place, called the Groote Markt, 
near the centre of the town. Eras- 
mus's real name was Gerrit Gerritz, 
which, in accordance with the custom 
of the learned of his time, he translated 
into Desiderius Erasmus. The house 
in which he was born (1467) still 
exists ; it is turned into a gin - shop, 
and is situated in the Breede Kerk 
Straat, leading to the Great Church. 
It bears a small statue of the scholar, 
with the inscription, " Haec est parva 
domus, magnus qu§, natus Erasmus." 

The Great Church of St. Lawrence, 
Groote Kerk (built in 1472), of brick, 
contains the monuments of the Ad- 
mirals de "Witt and Cortenaer, and 
Vice - Admiral (Schoudtbijnacht) van 
Brakel, all erected to their memoiy by 
the States General, and bearing epi- 
taphs in old Dutch verse. The very 
fine Organ, finished about 1840, accord- 
ing to some is superior in size and tone 
to that of Haarlem, the largest metal 
pipe being 36 ft. long and 17 inches in 
diameter, and the number of stops 90, 
and of pipes 6500 ! It is 90 ft. high. 
The organist will play at any time in 
consideration of a fee of 10 guilders for 
the hour. They who do not intend to 
visit Haarlem will do well to hear this 



Holland. 



ROUTE 1. — ROTTERDAM. 



27 



instrument. The architectural details 
of the church, though much mutilated, 
arc fine, and, like almost all the great 
churches of Holland, have been too 
much neglected. In this and other 
Dutch churches it will be remarked that 
the coats of arms on the monuments arc 
all defaced : this was the act of the French 
republicans during their occupation of 
Holland. The tower affords an exten- 
sive view of the country around, which, 
in the direction of Delft and Gouda, as 
in many other parts of Holland, is 
almost equally divided between land 
and water. It is truly dcbateable 
ground — intersected in all directions by 
canals, and trees in straight avenues, 
its flat surface dotted with farm and 
summer houses, while an occasional 
steeple and a number of windmills 
alone break the level line of a Dutch 
horizon. 

The other public buildings are, the 
Exchange, where business is transacted 
daily at 3 (scientific persons visiting 
Rotterdam should see the collection of 
philosophical instruments, and the 
library, in the room above it), — the 
Stadhnis or Town Hall, a large new 
building with a Composite portico, — 
and the house formerly occupied by the 
East India Company, on the Boompjes, 
close to the Hotel des Pays-Bas, turned 
into warehouses since the company was 
broken up ; but none of them deserve 
either minute description or examina- 
tion. The philosopher Bayle, when 
exiled from France, ended his days 
here, in one of the houses on the 
Boompjes. 

The Dockyard is inferior to that of 
Amsterdam, and on a much smaller 
scale than similar establishments in 
England. It is shown to strangers on 
producing an order from a respectable 
householder. A relic is preserved here 
of the successfid attack made by the 
Dutch upon the English fleet in the 
Medway, 1667, when they burnt the 
magazines at Chatham, along with 
several men-of-war. It is a portion of 
the stern of the Royal Charles, the 
Admiral's ship, which was captured by 
them. 

The Pictures bequeathed to the town 
by M. Boy mans, consisting of works of 



Dutch masters — good Jan Steen, Paul 
Potter, Wwvermam—m&y be seen daily, 
except Monday, on payment of a small 
sum. M. Nottcbohn possesses an ex- 
cellent private collection of the modern 
Dutch and Flemish schools. 

Half a day will suffice to see all that 
is remarkable in Rotterdam. 

There are so many English here, 
that the language is very generally 
spoken and understood. They have 
two churches ; a Presbyterian church, 
which has existed more than two cen- 
turies, and an Episcopalian, on the E. 
side of the Haring-vliet, surmounted 
by the arms of Queen Anne and the 
Duke of Marlborough : these, though 
served by ministers from Great Britain, 
form part of the National Church es- 
tablishment, the salaries being paid 
by the Dutch government. The Scotch 
Presbyterian church is on the Schottsche 

Bilk. 

The water of the Maas, which is 
drunk here, will cause considerable an- 
noyance to persons unaccustomed to it : 
travellers should avoid it (§ 6). 

In the suburbs are many places of 
entertainment, with Gardens, not un- 
like tea - gardens in England, except 
that some of them are freqiiented by 
the higher classes of citizens, and par- 
take of the nature of a club. Here arc 
found billiard and ball rooms, skittle- 
grounds, refreshments of various kinds, 
and much smoking. 

There is a 2)ublic walk outside the 
Ooster (eastern) gate, called Plantage, 
whence a good view is obtained of Rot- 
terdam. 

There arc several Clubs here, where 
English as Avell as continental news- 
papers are taken in ; a stranger may 
be introduced by a member, and ge- 
nerally by the master of the hotel. 

This was the native place of Adrian 
van der Wcrf, van dor Xeer, Netscher, 
and Zachtleeven, painters, and of James 
Crofts, Duke of Monmouth, son of 
Charles II. by Lucy Waters. 

The Post Office (het Postkantoor) is 
on the Wijnhaven, in the Wijnstraat. 

Curiosities from China and Japan 
may be purchased of De Groot, 342, 
Hoogstraat, opposite the "Walloon 
church. 

c 2 



28 



ROUTE 2. — ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM. DELFT. Sect. 1. 



Trekschuiten (§5) start nearly every 
hour in the day to Delft and the Hague ; 
the fare to the Hague is 20 stivers. 

Diligences daily to Utrecht, Nij- 
megen, Gouda, Antwerp, and Breda. 

Steamboats to Mjmegen every morn- 
ing in summer; every other morning 
during the rest of the year. Those of 
the New Dusseldorf Company are best. 
(See E. 12.) 

Steamers daily to Moerdijk in 3 
hours ; to Middelburg, in Zealand, in 
9 ; twice a day to Dort ; to Gouda 
and back daily ; 6 times a month to 
Havre and Dunkirk ; to London every 
Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday; 
to Antwerp daily, in 8 to 10 hours 
(see R. 18) ; to Bois le Due (Her- 
togenbosch) daily, in 8 hours ; to Hull 
once a week. 

A steam ferry-boat plies across the 
Maas to Katendrecht every \ hour, 
starting from a point a little below the 
town : the fare is 15 cents. The island 
of IJsselmonde, which here forms the I, 
bank of the Maas, though but 15 m. 
long by 7 wide, is said to be surrounded 
and intersected by dykes measuring 200 
m. in length. 

ROUTE 2. 

ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM, BY THE 
HAGUE, LEIDEN, AND HAARLEM. — 
RAILROAD — (iJZERENSPOORWEG) . 

5 trains a day ; to the Hague, 13 m., 
in 45 min. ; to Amsterdam in 2| hrs. 

Length of railway from Rotterdam to 
Amsterdam, 92,230 Eng. yards, or 
about 52 \ Eng. m. 

This railway, the first that was con- 
structed in Holland, is due to the en- 
terprise of a public company, called 
" The Railway Company of Holland," 
whose affairs are managed by a council 
of administration consisting of 5 com- 
missaries and the engineer. The diffi- 
culties of construction arising from the 
peculiar physical character of the locality 
were the least that the company had to 
contend against, owing to the hostility 
of the proprietors of the land. The 
company was formed on the 8th Aug. 
1837, at Amsterdam, and the part be- 
tween Haarlem and Amsterdam was 
opened 20th Sept. 1839. The engineer 



was the 
M.I.C.E. 



Chevalier F 
The gauge 



is 



"W. Conrad, 
2 metres = 



6 1 ft. Eng., from centre to centre of the 
rails, which rest upon longitudinal tim- 
ber bearings, and the cost of each Eng. 
mile of single line of railway laid was 
2394/. 10s. 

Trehschuiten to Delft in 2 hrs. 

The old road to Delft is pleasantly 
varied with villas and gardens, and runs 
for a considerable distance alongside of 
the canal, as, indeed is the ease with 
most roads in Holland. 

Station. Schiedam. — The town is on 
the 1., siurounded by windmills, and 
enveloped in everlasting smoke, rising 
from its distilleries of gin (jenever, i. e, 
juniper). See p. 25. 

-Inn, Gouden Molen 
On the Schie, 



Stat. Delft 
(Golden Mill), 
from Rotterdam, 
said to derive its 
dig. This town, 
tery," has been 



8 m. 

17,000 inhab.; and 
name from delven, to 
"the parent of pot- 
supplanted, even in 



Holland itself, in its chief article of pro- 
duce, to which it has given a name 
(Delft- ware, in Dutch plateel), by the 
superior manufactures of England, and 
the improved taste introduced by Wedg- 
wood in the making of pottery. All the 
earthenware now made here is of the 
coarser kind, and does not employ more 
than 200 persons. 

The streets appear empty and dull, 
but there is enough to amuse a traveller 
for an hour or two. 

Pepys, in his Diary, 18th May, 1660, 
describes the sights of Delft : — " To the 
church, where Van Tromp lies en- 
tombed, with a fine monument. His 
epitaph is concluded thus : — ' Tandem 
bello Anglico tantum non victor, certe 
invictus, vivere et vincere desiit.' There 
is a sea-fight cut in marble, with the 
smoke the best expressed that ever I 
saw in my life. From thence to the 
great church, that stands in a fine great 
market-place over against the Stadt- 
house ; and there I saw a stately tomb 
of the old Prince of Orange, of marble 
and brass, wherein, among other va- 
rieties, there are the angels with their 
trumpets, expressed as it were crying. 
Here were very fine organs in both the 
churches. It is a most sweet town, with 
bridges and a river in every street." 



Holland. 



ROUTE 2. — DELFT. CHURCHES. 



29 



The New Church (b. 1381) in the 
great square contains the costly monu- 
ment, clustered with columns and rich 
in marble, but in very bad taste, erected 
by the United Provinces to the me- 
mory of "William I., Prince of Orange, 
who was assassinated at Delft, 10th 
July, 1584. His statue in marble, in 
full armour, with sword and sceptre, 
reclines upon the tomb ; and at his 
feet is the figure of his favourite little 
dog, whose affection saved his master's 
life from the midnight attack of some 
Spanish assassins, who had planned to 
murder him while asleep in his camp, 
near Mechlin, 1572. The Spaniards, 
advancing stealthily under cover of the 
darkness, had nearly reached the tent, 
when the vigilance of the dog, whose 
instinct appears to have told him that 
they were enemies, detected their ap- 
proach. He instantly jumped upon the 
bed, and, by barking violently and tearing 
off the clothes with his teeth and feet, 
roused his master in time to enable him 
to escape. The faithful animal pined 
to death after his master's decease. The 
inscription on the tomb makes mention 
of the dog's attachment. There is a 
second and better stahic of the prince 
under the arch at the head of the tomb, 
in a sitting posture. Beneath is the 
burial vault of the present royal family 
of Holland. Here also is the simple 
monument of Grotius, who was a na- 
tive of Delft, and is interred in this 
church. This church contains a fine 
organ. 

In the Old Church (Oude Kerk), 
which has a leaning tower, is the mo- 
nument of Admiral Tromp, the veteran 
of 32 sea-fights, who conquered the 
English fleet under Blake, in the Downs, 
1652, and afterwards sailed through 
the channel with a broom at his mast- 
head, to signify that he had swept the 
sea of the English. He was killed at 
last in an engagement, represented in 
bas-relief on his tomb, between Schcven- 
ing and the mouth of the Maas, in 
which the English were victorious. 
In the same church are buried Piet 
Hein, who from a fisher-lad of Dclshaven 
rose to be admiral, captured the Spanish 
silver fleet, and died for his country; 
and Lcemvenhoek, the naturalist, also a 



native of Delft. The Grand Pensionary 
Hcinsius, the friend and fellow-coun- 
cillor of Marlborough and Eugene, was 
also bom here. 

The house in which William Prince 
of Orange was assassinated is nearly 
opposite to the W. end of the Old 
Church ; it is called the Prinssenhof, 
and is now a barrack. After crossing 
the court, a small door on the rt. 
leads to the spot where the murder was 
committed. The identical staircase 
which he was about to ascend after din- 
ner, and the passage where the mur- 
derer Balthazar Gcraarts stood, — so near 
to his victim that the pistol must 
almost have touched his body, — will 
assuredly be looked upon with interest 
by every traveller. An inscription, on 
a stone let into the wall, records the 
event ; and 3 holes, bored in another 
stone below it, pass for the identical 
marks of the fatal bullets which killed 
him. He expired in the arms of his 
sister, and his wife (the daughter of 
Coligny, who had been murdered in a 
similar manner, and in her sight, at 
the St. Bartholomew massacre). The 
last words of the hero were, "Mon Dicu, 
mon Dieu, ayez pitie de moi et de ce 
pauvre peuple ! " In the month after 
his assassination the states of Holland 
met at Delft, and placed his son Maurice, 
then a youth of 17, at the head of af- 
fairs. 

On an island surrounded by canals, 
near the entrance of the town, is the 
State Arsenal of Holland, an extensive 
and gloomy building, looking like a 
fortress, and ornamented with the arms 
of the ancient Dutch republic. It was 
originally the Dutch East India House. 

Okey, Barkstead, and Corbet, the re- 
gicides, settled at Delft. They were 
seized in an alehouse here by Sir George 
Downing, the English envoy at the 
Hague, sent to London, and executed at 
Tyburn. 

Between Delft and the Hague (about 
44 m.) the trckschuit will be found 
an agreeable and good conveyance. 
The canal from Delft to Leiden is by 
many considered as being the Fossa 
Corbulonis, and probably a part of the 
ancient excavation has been adopted. 
Corbulus employed his soldiers in exca- 



30 



ROUTE 2. —THE HAGUE. THE BINNENHOF. 



Sect. I. 



vating this canal in order to unite the 
Rhine and the Maes. (Tacitus, AnnaL, 
11, 20.) 

The country is even more thickly 
spread over with cottages, villas, coun- 
try seats, and gardens (§ 13), than on 
the other side of Delft. On the left of 
the canal and high road, hut on the 
right of the railroad, appears the spire 
of the church of Ryswyk, near which 
the famous treaty of peace was signed 
(1697) between England, France, Hol- 
land, Germany, and Spain, in a house 
of the Prince of Orange, now removed ; 
its site is marked by an obelisk. 

24 m. The Hague. Stat. (La Haye, 
in French; S'Gravenhage in Dutch; 
Haag in German.) Inns : — Hotel 
Bellevue, near the park, comfortable ; 
bed, 1 fl. 20 c. ; double-bedded room, 
2 fl. ; dinner, 2 fl. ; tea, 60 c. ; break- 
fast, 70 c. ; wax lights, 40 c. ; table- 
d'hote at 4. Oude Doelen, very com- 
fortable. Nieuwe Doelen, complaints of 
the attendance. (Doel is the Dutch for 
the bull's eye in the target, derived 
from times when archery was the fa- 
vourite amusement, and the inn the 
place of resort for the various companies 
or guilds of marksmen when the con- 
test was decided.) Hotel cle V Europe, in 
the Lange Houtstraat, close to the Mu- 
seum : bed, 1 fl. ; breakfast (without 
meat or eggs), 60 c. ; table d'hote, If fl. 
Mar Belial Tarenne ; Keizershof (Imperial 
Hotel) ; Twee Steden (Two Towns) ; 
Heerenlogement (Gentleman's Lodging). 

The population is 61,000. 

Though long the residence of the 
Stadtholders, and now of the King of 
Holland, up to the beginning of the 
present century the Hague ranked 
only as a village, because it had neither 
corporation nor walls, and did not re- 
turn members to the States General ; 
Louis Bonaparte, however, during his 
rule, conferred on it the privileges of a 
city. Other Dutch cities owe their rise 
to commerce or manufactures ; this to 
the residence of a court, the presence of 
the Government and States General, and 
the abode of foreign ministers. Its origin 
may be traced to a hunting-seat of the 
Counts of Holland, built here in 1250 ; 
and its name to the Counts' Hedge (S' Gra- 
ven Hage) surrounding their park. 



The principal streets are, the Voor- 
hout, lined with trees and bordered 
with splendid hotels; the Prinssen- 
gracht, Kneuterdijk, and Noord Einde. 
The Vijverberg (hill of the fish-pond) 
is a square or place, with avenues of 
trees forming a shady promenade on 
the one side, and a piece of water on 
the other. It is in Holland alone 
that so gentle a rise in the ground as 
is here perceptible would be dignified 
with the name of a hill. 

On the southern side of the Yijverberg 
stands the Binnenhof, so called because 
it formed the "inner court" of the 
Count's palace, an irregular -building of 
various dates. The Gothic hall in the 
centre of it, now used for the drawing 
of the lottery (Loterijzaal), and criminal 
court (Hoog Geregtshof), is the oldest 
building in the Hague, and the only re- 
maining fragment of the original palace 
of the Counts of Holland. It is a fine 
room, with a pointed roof, supported by 
a Gothic framework of wood, somewhat 
in the style of that of Westminster Hall. 
It possesses some interest in an histo- 
rical point of view ; since, upon a scaf- 
folding erected opposite to the door, on 
a level with the top of the steps, the 
virtuous and inflexible Bameveldt, 
Grand Pensionary of Holland, was be- 
headed in 1618, at the age of 72. This 
event is a stain on the character of 
Prince Maurice of Nassau ; but it is 
not true, as some have asserted, that he 
looked on from a side window during 
his rival's execution. The people be- 
held it with tears ; many came to gather 
the sand wet with his blood, to keep it 
carefully in phials ; and the crowd of 
those who had the same curiosity con- 
tinued next day, notwithstanding all 
they could do to hinder them. The 
Chambers of the States General or 
Dutch parliament, and several of the 
public offices, are situated in the Bin- 
nenhof. The public are freely ad- 
mitted to the debates of the Second 
Chamber. 

Between the Buitenhof (Outer Court) 
and the Vijverberg is an old gate-tower, 
called Gevangepoort (prison-gate), re- 
markable as the place in which Corne- 
lius De Witt was confined, 1 672, on a false 
charge of conspiring to assassinate the 



Holland. route 2. — the HAGUE, museum of pictures. 



31 



Prince of Orange. The populace, in- 
cited to fury by the calumnies circu- 
lated against him and his brother John, 
the Grand Pensionary, broke into the 
prison at a moment when the latter 
had been enticed hither by a report that 
his brother's life was in danger, dragged 
them forth, and literally tore them to 
pieces, with ferocity more befitting 
wild beasts than human beings. The 
State Prisons, besides the interest they 
possess from historical associations, are 
curious, on account of " the tortures in- 
flicted on the prisoners (within the last 
two centuries), not surpassed in cruelty 
even at Venice in its worst times : the 
rack, the pulley, the oubliettes, &c, are 
still shown." — L. Fm. A few yards 
from the spot where the De Witts were 
murdered, in the Kneutcrdijk, opposite 
the Hartogstraatje, may be seen the mo- 
dest mansion of the Grand Pensionary 
Dc Witt, who, though the first citizen of 
the richest country in the world, and 
perhaps the profoundest statesman in 
Europe, baffling the encroaching policy 
of France, and frightening London with 
the roar of his cannon in the Thames, 
was never seen in public but in the 
most homely dress, kept only a single 
servant, and rarely made use of a coach. 
Barnevcldt lived in a house which now 
forms part of the hotel of the Minister 
of Finance in the Lang Voorhout. 

The Picture Gallery and Museum are 
situated in the building called the 
Maurits Iiuis, from Prince Maurice 
of Nassau, Governor of Brazil, and 
afterwards of Cleve, by whom it was 
built. It is between the Plein and 
the Yijver. They are open to the pub- 
lic daily, except Sunday, from 9 to 3, 
on Saturday from 10^ to 1. 

The Picture Gallery is almost entirely 
confined to the works of Dutch mas- 
ters, and contains some of their finest 
works. It is not possible to point out 
the rooms which contain the works here 
mentioned, as there is nothing to dis- 
tinguish the rooms. The numbers are 
those of 1848. 

The most remarkable pictures are, — 
Paul Potter: (123.) Young Bull,— his 
masterpice, remarkable as one of the 
few examples in which the artist painted 
animals as large as life. " There can- 



not be a greater contrast to a very ge- 
neralised mode of treatment than that 
displayed in the celebrated picture of 
'The Bull,' by P. Potter, which ap- 
proaches the nearest to deception of any 
really fine work of art I have seen. 
The painter seems to have omitted no- 
thing that he saw in nature which art 
could represent, and yet its reality is 
free from any still-life unpleasantness. 
It is admired for its truth, but to a 
cultivated eye it has that something 
more than mere truth that is indis- 
pensable to a work of art ; it has great 
taste throughout — displayed no less in 
the general arrangement of the masses 
and forms than in the most minute 
particulars. The grandeur of the sky, 
and the beautiful treatment of the 
distant meadow, show that the painter 
had the power of seizing the finest 
characteristics of the large features 
of nature, while the exquisite manner 
in which the beautiful forms of the 
leaves of a dock, and their colours, com- 
pose with, one of the legs of the young 
bull, display as fine an eye for her 
most intricate beauties. Throughout 
the picture, indeed, we see that the 
hand has been directed by the eye of a 
consummate artist, and not merely by a 
skilful copyist." Prof. Leslie, R.A. 
This picture was carried to Paris by the 
French, and was classed by them fourth 
in value of all the paintings then in the 
Louvre; the Transfiguration, by Ra- 
phael, ranking first; the Commu- 
nion of St. Jerome, by Domenichino, 
second ; and Titian's Peter Martyr, third. 
They who know those three great works 
will probably be startled at the place 
thus assigned to this picture. Paul 
Potter's Bull has been valued at 5000/. ; 
the Dutch government, it is stated, of- 
fered Napoleon 4 times that sum if he 
woidd consent to suffer it to remain at 
the Hague. D. T.— (124). The Cow 
drinking ; " finely painted, remarkable 
for the strong reflection in the water." 
R.* — Rembrandt. (127.) A Surgeon, 
Professor Tulp, attended by his Pupils, 
proceeding to dissect a Dead Body. 
Though an unpleasing subject, it is a 

* The quotations marked R. are derived 
from Sir Joshua Reynolds' " Tour in Holland 
and Flanders." 



32 



ROUTE 2. — THE HAGUE. MUSEUM OF PICTURES. Sect. I. 



most "wonderful painting, and one of 
the artist's finest works. " To avoid 
making it an object disagreeable to look 
at, the figure is but just cut at the 
wrist. There are seven other portraits, 
coloured like nature itself, fresh and 
highly finished ; one of the figures be- 
hind has a paper in his hand, on which 
are written the names of the rest. 
Rembrandt has also added his own 
name, with the date, 1632. The dead 
body is perfectly well drawn (a little 
fore-shortened), and seems to have been 
just washed. Nothing can be more 
truly the colour of dead flesh. The 
legs and feet, which are nearest the 
eye, are in shadow ; the principal light, 
which is on the body, is by that means 
preserved of a compact form." R. 
Physicians assert that they can ascer- 
tain that it is the body of a person who 
died from inflammation of the lungs. 
This picture formerly stood in the An- 
atomy School (Snijkamer) of Amster- 
dam, but was purchased by the King 
for 32,000 guilders (2700/.) — (130.) 
Portrait of an officer with hat and 
feathers: "for colouring and force no- 
thing can exceed it." R. — (128.) St. Si- 
meon receiving the Infant Jesus in the 
Temple. — (129.) " A study of Susanna 
for a picture. It appears very extra- 
ordinary that Rembrandt should have 
taken so much pains, and have made 
at last so very ugly and ill-favoured a 
figure ; but his attention was principally 
directed to the colouring and effect, in 
which, it- must be acknowledged, he has 
attained the highest degree of excel- 
lence." R. — Rubens ; His first wife, 
Catherine Brintes (135), and his second 
wife, Helena Forman (136) : " both fine 
portraits ; but the last by far the most 
beautiful and the best coloured," R. — 
(137.) Portrait of his confessor. — Van 
Dyk : (37.) Six portraits of the Huy- 
gens family. — (40.) Portrait of Simon, 
a painter of Antwerp. " This is one of 
the very few pictures that can be seen 
of Van Dyk which is in perfect preser- 
vation; and, on examining it closely, 
it appeared to me a perfect pattern of 
portrait-painting; every part is dis- 
tinctly marked, but with the lightest 
hand, and without destroying the 
breadth of light : the colouring is per- 



fectly true to nature, though it has not 
the brilliant effect of sunshine such as 
is seen in Rubens' s wife: it is nature 
seen by common daylight." R. — (38, 
39.) Two fine portraits of a Gentle- 
man, and " a Lady with a feather in her 
hand ; " R. : called, incorrectly, the 
Duke and Duchess of Buckingham; 
from the coat of arms in the corner, 
they are probably either Dutch or Ger- 
man. — " A Virgin and Infant Christ, 
coloured in the manner of Rubens, so 
much so as to appear, at first sight, to 
be of his hand; but the character of 
the child shows it to be Van Dyk's." 
R. The only picture in the gallery 
answering to this description is one at- 
tributed (and to all appearance cor- 
rectly) to Murillo. (223.) — Ferdinand 
Bo! : (17). Portrait of Admiral de 
Ruyter. — Keyzer : (82.) Four Bur- 
gomasters of Amsterdam deliberating 
on the reception of Mary de Medici 
into their city. " A very good picture." 
—(81.) A small full-length of a Ma- 
gistrate in black : excellent. — Gerard 
Douw : (35.) A "Woman sitting near 
a window, with a child in a cradle ; 
a very pleasing picture. — (36.) U A 
woman with a light." R. Very highly 
finished. Wouvermans : (188.) A Bat- 
tle-piece ; (196.) "The Hav Cart;" 
and (195.) « The Manege": " three 
excellent specimens of this artist. " Here 
are many of the best works of "Wouver- 
mans, whose pictures are well worthy 
the attention and close examination of 
a painter. One of the most remarkable 
of them is known by the name of the 
Hay Cart : another, in which there is 
a coach and horses, is equally excellent. 
These pictures are in his three different 
manners : his middle manner is by 
much the best; the first and last have 
not that liquid softness which charac- 
terises his best works. Besides his 
great skill in colouring, his horses are 
correctly drawn, jery spirited, of a 
beautiful form, and always in unison 
with their ground. Upon the whole, 
he is one of the few painters whose ex- 
cellence, in his way, is such as leaves 
nothing to be wished for." R. — Berg- 
hem: (12.) An Italian View. — (14.) 
Banditti robbing a Caravan : excellent, 
— Vandencerf: (186.) The Flight into 



Holland, route 2. — the hague. museum of pictures. 



33 



Egypt : " one of his best." R. — Ter- 
burg. (169.) A Woman seated on the 
ground, leaning her elbow against a 
man's knee, and a trumpeter delivering 
a letter." R. — Poussin: Venus asleep: 
a Satyr drawing off the drapery. R. 
The painting to which Sir Joshua al- 
ludes is probably (139) described in 
the catalogue as the Dream of Astolpho, 
from Ariosto, by one of Rubens' s scho- 
lars. — John Breughel : "Two pictures 
of flowers and fruits, with animals ; one 
serves for a border to a bad portrait (?), 
the other (26, called the Flight into 
Egypt) to a picture of Rottenhamer : 
the frames are much better than the 
pictures." R. — (28.) Figures by Ru- 
bens. Paradise. The largest and best 
of Breughel's pictures on this subject : 
see Kuglcr § LVIII. 4, p. 302.— (95.) 
Metzu. Emblematical representation of 
Justice. — (89.) Lingelbach : The De- 
parture of Charles II. from Sche- 
veningen for England in 1660. — (116, 
117.) A. Van Ostade : "The exterior 
and interior of a cottage." — F. Micris: 
(100.) Boy blowing bubbles. — (98.) 
" Dutch gallantry : a man pinching the 
ear of a dog, which lies on his mistress's 
lap." R. Called in the catalogue, 
The Painter and his Wife. — Van der 
Heist : (59.) Portrait of Paul Potter, 
taken a few days before his death. — 
Schalken: (146.) A Lady at her Toilette. 
A beautiful candlelight effect. — (150.) 
Portrait of William III. — Jan Steen: 
(160.) The Menagerie, one of his best 
works. In the distance the house at 
Hondsholredijk. — (157.) Human life: 
see Kugler, § LIII. 2 ; and other very 
good pictures. — A. Van de Velde : (178) 
The seashore at Schevening. — Hoekgeest 
(a rare master) : (62.) The tomb of 
Wiliiam Prince of Orange in the New 
Church, Delft. "It is painted in the 
manner of De Witt, but I think better." 
R— Tenters : (168.) "An alchemist." 
—(167.) "A kitchen." R.— Velasquez : 
(225.) Portrait of a boy : said to be 
Charles Balthazar, son of Philip IV. 
of Spain. — Unknown: (273.) Portrait 
of the Emperor Charles V. ; a sketch. 
— Vernct : (219.) A storm at sea. — 
Hondehoeter (64-67.) § Weenix (184, 
185.) : One or two admirable speci- 
mens of these masters, representing 



birds and game alive and dead. — Van 
Huissum : Fruit and flower pieces. (72, 
73.)— De Heem: " Fruit, done with the 
utmost perfection." R. (56, 57.) — 
Snyders : (1 53.) " A large hunting piece, 
well painted, but it occupies too much 
space. His works, from the subjects, 
their size, and, we may add, from their 
being so common, seem to be better 
suited to a hall or ante-room than any 
other place." R. The landscape is by 
Rubens. 

Among the older pictures are, — by 
Albert Durer : Two portraits (202.) said 
to be of Laurence Coster, the inventor 
of printing, and (203.) P. Aretin. — 
Holbein: (210.) A small portrait of 
a man with a hawk ; on it is written 
Robert Cheseman, 1533. "Admirable 
for its truth and precision, and ex- 
tremely well coloured. The blue flat 
ground behind the head gives a general 
effect of dryness to the picture : had 
the ground been varied, and made to 
harmonise more with the figure, this 
portrait might have stood in compe- 
tition with the works of the best por- 
trait painters." R. — (211.) Jane Sey- 
mour. (209.) A portrait called Sir 
Thomas More ; on it is the date 1542 : 
it is quite unlike Sir T. More, who 
was beheaded 6 July, 1535 : — fine por- 
traits. 

The Royal Cabinet of Curiosities, a 
highly interesting collection, is placed 
in the lower story of the Maurits Huis. 
Several apartments arc occupied en- 
tirely with objects of curiosity from 
China and Japan, and rare productions 
brought from the Dutch colonics ; one 
division is devoted to historical relics of 
distinguished persons. Some of the 
most remarkable objects are here enu- 
merated. 

The costumes of China, illustrated by 
figures of persons of various ranks, in 
porcelain, as the Emperor, a Bonze or 
Priest, Mandarins, &c, each in his pe- 
culiar dress. An immense variety of 
articles manufactured by the Chinese in 
porcelain. Figures and other objects 
elaborately carved in ivory, mother-of- 
pearl, and soap-stone or steatite. A 
chess-board, differing but little from that 
of Europe ; articles in daily use amongst 
the Chinese, as the chopsticks, which 

c 3 



34 



ROUTE 2. THE HAGUE. MUSEUM. 



Sect. I. 



serve instead of knives and forks ; the 
calculating table (swampon, or abacus), 
with which they cast accounts ; speci- 
mens of visiting cards 2 feet square, &c. ; 
and a view of the palace of the Emperor 
of China at Pekin. 

The rarities from Japan are unique, 
as the Dutch are the only European 
nation admitted into that country, and 
have therefore alone opportunities for 
procuring curiosities. They give a most 
satisfactory insight into the manners 
and habits of that remote and highly- 
civilised country. The value of this 
collection is increased by the extreme 
difficulty of bringing such objects to 
Europe, as the laws of the Japanese 
strictly prohibit their exportation, under 
pain of death. A plan of Jeddo, the 
metropolis of Japan, a city (it is said) of 
at least 2,000,000 inhabitants, and 20 
leagues in circumference. A curious 
model, made by the Japanese, with the 
most minute attention to details, of the 
island of Desima, the Dutch Factory in 
Japan. Several hundred figures are in- 
troduced into it, giving a precise idea of 
the occupation of the people, the furni- 
ture of their houses, their dress, &c. — 
The Deities of China and Japan in 
porcelain, &c. A whole wardrobe of 
Japanese dresses, made of silks and 
other stuffs. 

A large collection of Japan ware, as 
boxes, trays, tea-chests, &c, of far finer 
workmanship and more elaborately 
painted than the ordinary specimens 
commonly met with in Europe. Japan- 
ese weapons, particularly various species 
of krits or dirks, and swords, of remark- 
ably fine steel, which in temper are said 
to surpass anything which Birmingham, 
or even Damascus, can produce. The 
Japanese are tremendously expert in the 
use of this their favourite weapon : with 
one blow they can sever a man's body 
in twain. The upper classes of society 
claim the privilege of wearing two 
swords at once. The matchlock barrels 
deposited here are excellent in the 
quality of the steel and in the beauty of 
the workmanship. Among the articles 
of military equipment is a coat of Ja- 
panese mail, with a steel visor formed 
into a grotesque face, and ornamented 
with mustachios of bristles and horns of 



brass. A Norimon, or Japanese palan- 
quin. The needles and other apparatus 
with which the operation of acupunc- 
ture is performed by the Japanese 
physicians, are deserving the attention 
of medical men. 

Many cases are entirely filled with 
dresses, arms, implements, canoes, and 
household utensils of savage nations, 
from various parts of the world. Here 
is a model of Fieschi's infernal machine, 
and a Russian knout. 

Among the Historical Relics are the 
armour of Admiral de Ruiter, with the 
medal and chain given him by the States 
General. The baton of Admiral Piet 
Hein. The armour of Admiral Tromp, 
with the marks of more than one bullet 
on it. The chairs of Jacqueline of Hol- 
land, and of Barneveldt, brought from 
his prison. The portrait and sword of 
Van Speyk, who blew up his vessel 
before Antwerp, 1831 ; and the chair on 
which General Chasse sat during the 
siege of the citadel. A portion of the 
bed on which the Czar Peter slept in 
his hut at Zaandam. The shirt and 
waistcoat worn by "William III. of Eng- 
land the last three days of his life. A 
specimen of the beggar's bowl (jatte de 
Gueux) which formed a part of the in- 
signia of the confederate chiefs who 
freed Holland from the yoke of Spain, 
worn by them along with a wallet, as 
symbols of the name of beggar (gueux), 
with which their enemies intended to 
have stigmatised them. A ball of wood, 
full of nails, each driven in by one of 
the confederates when they swore to be 
faithful to one another and stedfast in 
the enterprise. The dress of "William 
Prince of Orange on the day when he 
was murdered at Delft by Balthazar 
Geraarts. It is a plain grey leathern 
doublet, sprinkled with blood, pierced 
by the balls, and showing marks of the 
powder. By the side of it is the pistol 
used by the assassin, and two of the 
fatal bullets. A model of the cabin in 
which Peter the Great resided while a 
ship-builder at Zaandam. A large baby- 
house, fitted up to show the nature of a 
Dutch menage, intended by rotor as a 
present to his wife. 

Opposite to the Palace of the King of 
Holland, in the Xoord Einde, is the Xcu- 



~* 



Holland, route 2.— the hague. royal library, etc. 



35 



Palace, built by the late King (who 
died 1849). He was a liberal patron of 
the arts ; and his very splendid collec- 
tion of pictures, formerly in his palace 
at Brussels, formed with great care and 
taste and at vast cost, was, to the shame 
of the Government and people of Hol- 
land, and to their permanent injury, sold 
by auction 1850, and dispersed, the 
greater number of pictures being trans- 
ferred to England. 

The Royal Library in the Voorhout 
consists of about 100,000 vols., open to 
the public on Mon., Wed., and Fri. 
Here may be seen the prayer-books of 
Catherine de' Medici and Catherine of 
Aragon, and a Bible presented to Wil- 
liam and Mary of England at their 
coronation, with these words in the 
title-page, in the Queen's own hand : 
" This book was given the king and I 
-at our crownation. Marie B,." Among 
the MSS. is a copy of the Treaty of 
Utrecht ; the original is in the Archives. 

The collection of medals (to the num- 
ber of 33,600) and of gems in the same 
building is very extensive and rich. 
There are 300 cameos, the greater part 
antique — among them, the apotheosis of 
Claudius, one of the largest known, and 
of fine workmanship. Among the modern 
cameos, a portrait of Queen Elizabeth is 
very fine. 

The lover of the fine arts ought not 
to quit the Hague without visiting the 
Private Cabinets of M. van Nagel, which 
includes a fine Cuyp, a Calm at Sea ; 
two good Wouvermans ; and a spirited 
Teniers ; — that of M. Osthuis : — and that 
of M. Steengracht, on the Vijverberg, 
which contains fine works of Teniers, 
Jan Steen, Mieris, Van der Velde, Metzu, 
Bachhuysen, Bernbrandt ; 2 portraits by 
Van der Heist, 2 by C. Netscher, a Paul 
Potter, 2 portraits by Gerard Dow, a De 
Hooglxe ; and in the first room are some 
good modern Dutch pictures. The ca- 
binet of the Baron de Westreenen de 
Tiellandt contains, besides a fine collec- 
tion of coins and antiquities, several 
works of early art. There are specimens 
of Byzantine art and works of Cimabue, 
Giotto, Ditccio, Ambrogio Lauratti, J. van 
Eycli, and of the early schools of Flo- 
rence, Pisa, and Sienna. The house is 
on the Princcssen Gracht. 



A bronze statue of William I., Prince 
of Orange, stands in the middle of the 
Plein. His faithful dog bears him com- 
pany (see Delft, p. 29). It was erected 
in 1848, and is by M. Boyer. 

Huygens, the inventor of the pendu- 
lum clock, and William III. of England, 
were natives of the Hague. 

A number of tame storks may be seen 
stalking about in the Fish Market, where 
a small house like a dog-kennel has been 
built for them. They are kept at the 
public expense for the same reason that 
bears are kept at Berne and eagles at 
Geneva — because the arms of the Hague 
are a stork. 

In the Theatre (Schouwburg, at the 
angle of the Wijde Voorhout) French 
pieces are performed 3 times a week, 
and Dutch twice; German are given 
but rarely. 

The Post Office (Postltantoor) is in the 
Place, adjoining the Stadhuis and the 
Groote Kerk. 

There is a brass- cannon fomidry at 
the Hague, opposite the Malibaan. 

At Boer's shop, Scheveninger Straat, 
Chinese and Japanese curiosities may be 
purchased. At Enthoven's Antiquity shop 
ladies will find a large collection of old 
lace, porcelain, &c. — H. M. 

At the Hague the water is more stag- 
nant than in almost any other part of 
Holland. Though so near the sea, the 
canals and streams do not empty them- 
selves into it, on the contrary flow from 
it. By the side of the road, near Sche- 
veningen, a tall windmill is seen on a 
height, with another below it. These 
raise up water from the Dunes and con- 
vey it to the Vijverberg, whose stagnant 
water it displaces into the canals, and, 
at last, effecting a feeble current through 
the Hague, pushes out a portion into 
the canal leading to Delft. From Delft 
the water barely flows to the borders of 
the Meuse, above Rotterdam, where it 
is pumped up and discharged into that 
river. This may be well seen in a 
clear day from the top of St. James's 
church. 

On the outskirts of the town, about 
a mile distant, at the side of the road to 
Haarlem, lies the palace called the House 
in the Wood ('T Huis in 't Bosch). The 
billiard-room is hung round with family 



36 



ROUTE 2.— THE HAGUE. BOSCH. SCHEVENINGEN. Sect. 1. 



portraits — among them the Governor of 
Friesland by Van Dyk, and the children 
of Charles I. by Netscher. The great 
hall, called Oranje Zaal (Orange Hall), 
was built by a Princess of Solms, grand- 
motber of our William III., and deco- 
rated with paintings in bonour of ber 
busband, Prince Frederick Henry of 
Orange. " It is painted on every side, 
and every recess and corner has some 
allegorical story by Jordaens, Van Tul- 
den, Lievens, or Hondthorst, The dif- 
ferent bands that have been bere em- 
ployed make variety, it is true, but it is 
variety of wretchedness. A triumphal 
entry, by Jordaens, is tbe best, and this 
is but a confused business : the only part 
which deserves any commendation is tbe 
four borses of tbe cbariot, wbicb are 
well painted. It is remarkable tbat tbe 
foremost leg of eacb horse is raised, 
which gives them the formality of 
trained soldiers." — R. " The picture no 
doubt displays much bad taste and bad 
drawing ; but there are specimens of 
colouring in it which have all the 
brilliant transparency of Rubens — for 
instance, the group of female prisoners 
and that of Venus and her nymphs." — 
W. M. T. The next in merit is that of 
Neptune stilling the tempest — a " Quos 
ego," also by Jordaens. The apartments 
which surround this hall were added 
afterwards. Some of the rooms are hung 
with Chinese silk. 

The Bosch, or Wood, a beautiful park, 
nearly 2 m. long, abounds in fine 
forest-trees, and is one of the few spots 
in Holland where they are allowed to 
grow as nature intended them, undip- 
ped, untrained, and in all their naftiral 
luxuriance of spreading branches. The 
number of paths, the varied nature of 
the ground, the fine sheets of water, and 
the refreshing shade, render this a very 
agreeable walk. 

Scheveningen, about 3 m. from the 
Hague, on the sea-shore, is a fishing 
village of 3000 inbab. The road 
thither passes through a long avenue of 
trees. A little to the left of the road is 
Sorgvliet, once the residence of the poet 
Jacob Cats : a stone tablet at which he 
used to write, with a hole cut in it for 
. an inkstand, is shown in the garden. 

The costume worn by the fishwives 



of Scheveningen is not a little singular ; 
the bonnet can be compared to nothing 
so appropriately as a coal-scuttle. The 
fishermen convey their fish to the Hague 
in carts drawn by dogs ; in returning 
the master supplies the place of the fish, 
and may be seen, to use the words of the 
facetious author of Vathek, " airing 
himself in a one-dog chaise." 

The sand-hills thrown up along the 
beach conceal all views of the sea till 
the traveller is close upon it. 

Scheveningen was the place from 
which Charles II. embarked for England 
at the Restoration ; and here the Prince 
of Orange landed in 1813, some months 
before the downfall of Buonaparte. The 
village originally extended some way 
beyond the church towards the sea ; but 
that portion of it was swallowed up by 
a dreadful inundation, 1570. 

To the right of the village, on the 
shore, is a pavilion of the late Queen of 
Holland ; and, beyond it, tbe Neva Bath- 
ing Establishment, which unites the ac- 
commodations of an Hotel and Cafe 
with warm baths ; while bathing- 
machines are provided on the shore for 
those who prefer a cold bath in the sea. 
It belongs to the Corporation of the 
Hague, and the price of everything is 
fixed by tariff. Apartments let at 3, 2, 
and 1 guilders per diem ; but an allow- 
ance is made to persons who take up 
their abode for several weeks. Table- 
d'hote (open Tafel) at 4, 2 fl. ; a bottle 
of vin ordinaire, 1 fl. 50 c ; dinner in 
private, from 1 fl. 50 c. to 2 fl. 50. c. ; 
breakfast with tea or coffee, 60 c. ; a 
warm bath, 1 fl. 10 c. ; a bathing- 
machine, 1 fl. Fish may be had here 
in great perfection, and are generally 
eaten at breakfast. 

Many princes, princesses, and other 
persons of distinction from various parts 
of the Continent, take up their residence 
here every year during the season. The 
inhabitants of the Hague drive over 
hither, take their breakfast or dinner, 
and a bath, and then return. A new 
road leading from the back of the hotel 
over a waste of sand now planted with 
trees may be chosen in going back to 
the Hague, so as to vary the excursion. 
Omnibuses arc constantly passing to and 
fro, fare 6 or S stivers. A glass-coach 



Hollaad. 



ROUTE 2. — LEIDEN. 



37 



to go and return costs from 1 to \\ 
gr. 

The Bath-house is built upon one of 
the ridges of sand thrown up by the 
wind, which extend along the sea-shore 
from the Texel nearly to Dunkirk. (See 
Dunes, § 12). The view over this desert 
is as strange as can be well imagined. 

Railway, Hague to Leiden. — Trains 
4 times a day to Leiden, 10 miles (f 
hour), Haarlem, Amsterdam, and 5 times 
to Rotterdam. 

rt. See the spire of the ch. of Voor- 
b'/rg, a small hamlet E. of the Hague, 
near the site of the Forum Hadriani of 
the Romans. Remains of Roman build- 
ings, baths, broken pottery, utensils, 
and other articles of much interest, have 
been dug up here, and are now to be 
seen in the museum at Leiden. Near 
Voorburg is Hofwyk, the house where the 
brothers Huygens lived. (See Route 10.) 

[Between the Hague and Leiden the 
old road, having first traversed the 
Bosch, passes many country houses and 
gardens of the nobility, with their me- 
andering walks, formal clipped hedges, 
and parterres cut in patterns filled with 
flowers. There is an undulation in the 
surface of the ground, which shows that 
this part of the country was originally in 
a great degree composed of Dunes (§12) 
similar to those now forming along the 
sea-shore.] 

Nieuwcr Oosteinde Stat. 

Voorschoten Stat. 

The narrowed stream of the Rhine is 
crossed near Yink, before reaching Lei- 
den, by a timber bridge with 5 openings, 
one of which is furnished with sliding 
platforms, in order to allow the masts of 
vessels to pass. The Leiden station 
stands on such bad ground that it was 
necessary to construct a raft, placed 
upon oak piles, to receive the foundation 
of the building. 

37 m. Leiden Stat. — Inns: Goude 
Zon (Golden Sun) ; Plaats Royaal, a 
small inn of no pretension, but where 
cleanliness and civility will be met with ; 
Lion d'Or, in the Breedstraat. 

Leiden, situated on that branch of 
the Rhine which alone retains its ori- 
ginal name as far as the sea, and which 
here resembles an artificial canal, has 
37,464 inliab., but is built to hold 



90,000. In its present name may still 
be traced that which the Romans gave 
it — Lugdunum Batavorum. In the centre 
of the town is the fragment of a round 
tower, de Burg, built on a mound of 
earth : it is said to have been raised by 
Drusus, though attributed by some to the 
Anglo-Saxon Hengist. There is a waUc 
round the top of it, but it is not suffi- 
ciently high to afford a good view of the 
town. It stands in a tea-garden, and 
10 cents, or 2 stivers, is charged to each 
person for admission. 

The Town Hall (Stadhuis), in the 
Breedstraat (Broad Street, the principal 
and longest in the town), is a singular 
but picturesque old building, erected in 
1574; the lower story is occupied by 
butchers' stalls. In the council and 
audience chambers, on the first floor, 
are several pictures : among them the 
Last Judgment, by Lucas Van Leyden, 
an extraordinary composition, but which 
must be judged with reference to the 
period when it was done — it has been 
much injured ; a Crucifixion, by Corne- 
lius Engelbrecht ; several good portraits 
of the city guard, by Vanschooten. 
There is a picture by Van Bree, a modern 
artist, together with a portrait, by Govert 
Flinck, of the burgomaster, Peter Yan- 
derwerf, who so bravely defended the 
town during the memorable siege of 
1574, and here, with inflexible forti- 
tude, resisted the summons to surrender 
made by the starving and tumultuous 
mob of townsfolk, when they broke into 
the council-chamber. Wappers, a living 
artist, has also painted a fine picture of 
the siege of Leiden. 

Leiden has been rendered celebrated 
in the annals of the Low Countries, 
and, indeed, in the history of the world, 
by the siege which it endured from the 
Spaniards under Valdez in 1573-4. The 
defence of the place was intrusted to 
John Vanderdocs ; the burgomaster of 
the town was Pieter Adrianzoon Yan- 
derwerf ; and the example of heroism 
and endurance afforded by the citizens 
under their guidance has not been sur- 
passed in any country. When Vander- 
does was urged by Valdez to surrender, 
he replied, in the name of the inhabit- 
ants, that " when provisions failed them 
they would devour their left hands, re- 



38 



BOUTE 2, — LEIDEN, THE SEISE, 



Beet. I. 



serving their right to defend their ' 
liberty." For nearly four months the 
inhabitants had held out -without mur- J 
muring ; every individual, even to the 
women and children, taking a share in 
the defence. For seven weeks bread 
had not been seen within the walls ; 
provisions had been exhausted, and the 
horrors of famine had driven the be- J 
sieged to appease their hunger with the 
flesh of horses, dogs, cats, and other foul 
animals ; roots and weeds were eagerly 
sought for. So strictly was the block- J 
ade maintained, that every attempt on 
the part of their friends to throw in pro- j 
visions had failed. Pestilence came in j 
the train of famine, and carried off at \ 
least 6000 of the inhabitants, so that 
the duty of burying them was almost 
too severe for those who were left, worn 
out by fatigue, watching, and emacia- 
tion. At length two carrier pigeons 
flew into the town, bearing tidings that 
relief was at hand. The Prince of 
Orange had finally adopted the deter- j 
ruination of cutting the dykes of the 
Maas and IJssel, to relieve the heroic 
town. As this fearful alternative could 
not be resorted to without involving in 
ruin the whole province of Holland, it is 
not to be wondered at that it was only 
adopted after much hesitation and as a j 
last resource. But the inundation, even j 
when the water was admitted, did not 
produce the anticipated results ; although 
the country between Gouda, Dort, Rot- j 
terdam, and Leiden was submerged, it I 
only rose a few feet. The flotilla of 200 
boats, built by the Prince of Orange at 
Rotterdam, and manned by 800 Zealand- [ 
ers under Boisot, destined for the relief | 
of the town, was thus prevented ap- 
proaching it, though the inhabitants j 
could easily descry it from their walls. 
Then it was that, driven frantic by dis- ■ 
appointment as well as suffering, they j 
approached, in a tumultuous mob, the ; 
burgomaster, and demanded from him, 
peremptorily, bread or the surrender of 
the town. " I have sworn to defend 
this city," answered the heroic governor, 
" and by God's help I mean to keep 
that oath. Bread I have none ; but, if 
my body can afford you relief and enable 
you to prolong the defence, take it and 
tear it to pieces, and let those who are 



most hungry among you share it." Such 
noble devotion was not without its 
effect : the most clamorous were abashed, 
and they all retired in silence ; but, for- 
tunately the misery of the besieged was 
now nearly at an end, and another 
power above that of man effected the 
relief of the town of Leiden. The wind, 
which had for many weeks been in the 
n.e., changed to the n.w., driving the 
tide up the river ; it then suddenly 
veered to the s., and one of those violent 
and continued storms which, even when 
the dykes are entire, eause such anxiety 
for the safety of the country, acting 
with accumulated violence upon the 
waters, widened the breaches already 
cut in the dykes, and drove in the flood 
upon the land with the force of an over- 
whelming torrent. The inundation not 
only spread as far as the walls of Leiden, 
but with such suddenness that the ram- 
parts thrown up by the Spaniards were 
surrounded, and more than 1000 of their 
soldiers were overwhelmed by the flood. 
The same tide which swept them away 
carried the flotilla of boats of the Prince 
of Orange, laden with provisions, to the 
gates of Leiden. An amphibious battle 
was fought among the branches of the 
trees, partly on the dykes, partly in 
boats, and in the end the Spaniards, who 
had boasted that it was as impossible for 
the Dutch to save Leiden from their 
hands as to pluck the stars from heaven, 
were driven from their palisades and 
entrenchments. This almost miraculous 
deliverance took place on the 3rd of Oc- 
tober, 1574, a day still commemorated 
by the citizens. As an additional proof 
of Divine interference on this occasion, 
the Dutch historians remark that the 
wind from the s.w., which had carried 
the water up to the walls, after three 
days turned to the n.e., so as effectually 
to drive it back again. Thus it might 
well be said that both wind and water 
fought in the defence of Leiden. 

The spirit which then animated the 
Dutch nation is by no means extinct, as 
their patriotic exertions after the sepa- 
ration of their country from Belgium, 
in 1830, have shown. At the first call 
the whole of the students of this and 
other Dutch universities quitted their 
studies, and, enrolling themselves into 



Holland. 



ROUTE 2, — LEIDEN. UNIVERSITY. MUSEUM. 



39 



a corps, marched to the frontier, and 
not only distinguished themselves in 
the conflicts that took place, but re- 
mained in arms for the space of one 
year as volunteers. 

The University is remarkable, not 
only as one of the most distinguished 
schools of learning in Europe, and for 
the interesting and valuable museums 
attached to it, but also on account of 
its origin and foundation, which dates 
from the time of the siege. The Prince 
of Orange, with the view of rewarding 
the citizens for the bravery they dis- 
played on that occasion, gave them the 
choice of two privileges — either an 
exemption from certain taxes, or a uni- 
versity : much to their credit they 
chose the latter. It at one time at- 
tained so high a reputation for learning, 
that Leiden earned the appellation of 
the Athens of the W»st. In the list of 
its distinguished professors and scholars 
it numbers Grotius and Descartes, Sal- 
masius, Scaliger, and Boerhaave, who 
was professor of medicine. Evelyn, 
Goldsmith, and many other celebrated 
Englishmen, studied here. Arminius 
and Gomarus, the authors of the rival 
doctrines in religion named after them, 
were professors here, and the memor- 
able controversy between them com- 
menced in the University. Leiden still 
affords excellent opportunities to the 
student of medicine or natural history, 
from the extent and value of its collec- 
tions in all departments. The building 
of this University is not distinguished 
for its architecture. The Academical 
Senate Hall, in which degrees are con- 
ferred, contains over the mantel-piece a 
likeness of the founder, and its walls are 
covered from top to bottom with more 
than 100 portraits of professors, from 
the time of Sealiger down to the present. 
There are at present about 300 students. 
It has lately been proposed to consolidate 
all the Dutch Universities at Leiden, 
which would, of course, advance its 
prosperity at the cost of Utrecht and 
Groningen. 

The Museum of Natural History in 
the Papengracht (open daily from 12 to 
3) is one of the richest and most exten- 
sive in Europe, especially in all the 
productions of the Dutch colonies in the 



East, Java, Japan, the Cape, Surinam, 
and West Indies : there are many rare 
specimens not to be found elsewhere, 
very excellently preserved, and the 
whole is admirably arranged. 

The department of Birds is enriched 
by the collection made by M. Tem- 
minck, perhaps the finest in Europe. 

The cabinet of Comparative Anatomy 
is one of the most complete in Europe. 
It contains preparations and skeletons 
of animals from the camelopard down 
to the mouse, and is well arranged, but 
is of course interesting only to the stu- 
dent and man of science. 

Among the shells are specimens of 
those which produce pearl, and of the 
pearl itself in all its different stages of 
formation ; also portions of the wooden 
piles which support the dykes on some 
parts of the Dutch coast, perforated by 
the teredo to such an extent that the 
total ruin of the dykes was at one time 
apprehended. Luckily the danger did 
not spread very far, and the threatened 
scourge disappeared. It is supposed 
that the worm had been brought over 
from the tropical seas in the timber of 
some vessel, but that it had been killed 
in a few seasons by the rigour of a 
northern climate. Means have been 
taken since its appearance to guard 
against the danger in future. The 
dykes are now protected at their base 
by stones brought from Norway or 
Toumay, and the lock-gates are cop- 
pered. 

Among the minerals a mass of native 
gold, from the island of Aruba, weigh- 
ing 17 lbs., a large crystal of emerald, 
and an unset topaz, of a brownish- 
yellow colour, from Ceylon, the largest 
in Europe, should not be overlooked. 

Among the insects are various spe- 
cimens of spectrum, nearly a foot long ; 
also the leaf insect. 

The Egyptian Museum (het Museum 
van Oudheden), in the Brcede Straat, 
under the able direction of Mr. Lee- 
mans, includes numerous valuable and 
highly interesting monuments, partly 
historical, partly illustrative of the mode 
of life of that ancient people. The 
Papyri, some musical instruments, in- 
sci'iptions, numerous fine stone tablets 
of a very early period, a monolithic 



40 



ROUTE 2. — LEIDEN. BOTANICAL GARDEN. 



Sect. I. 



temple, cut out of a single huge block 
of red granite, many sarcophagi and 
mummies, as well as rich ornaments in 
gold and precious stones, offer abundant 
interest to the learned antiquary and to 
the curious traveller. Of jewellery and 
trinkets, once, doubtless, the delight of 
the ladies of Thebes, and such as were 
borrowed by the children of Israel on 
their departure from Egypt, there is a 
large assortment. A massive armlet 
of solid gold bears the name of a king 
(Thotmes II.), who is supposed to 
have been the oppressor of the Israel- 
ites ; if so, it may possibly have been 
seen by Moses himself. The Museum 
also embraces many ancient objects of 
Roman art ; an Etruscan statue of a 
boy holding a goose in his arms is 
curious for the style of art. Six monu- 
mental fragments, bearing Punic in- 
scriptions, were brought from the ruins 
of Carthage. There are, besides, a 
number of colossal Indian statues and 
other objects here. A heap of broken 
pottery and other objects discovered at 
Voorburg, near the Hague, are curious 
relics of the Roman settlement in this 
country. The Agricultural collections 
in Leiden are very eminent. The 
Library is very extensive, and contains 
some of the rarest oriental MSS. known, 
collected in the East by Golius in the 
17th century. 

The Japanese Collection of Dr. Siebold, 
visible at his own house daily from 9 to 
6 (give 10 stivers to the servant), is 
decidedly the finest and most extensive 
of the kind in Europe, and was formed 
by Dr. Siebold, a German physician, 
in the course of a residence in Japan of 
8 years, some of which were spent in 
prison. It is curious not only from 
the number of the articles, but from 
their careful and judicious arrange- 
ment. It unites everything from the 
most common to the most rare and 
valuable objects relating to the mode 
of life, manners and customs, &c, of 
the Japanese. It contains implements 
of husbandry ; whatever is used for 
ordinary domestic purposes ; dresses, 
arms, tools, vases — many of them re- 
markable for their workmanship as well 
as their antiquity ; models ; well-exe- 
cuted sketches ; coloured drawings ; a 



library of printed books, MSS., and 
maps ; a complete set of musical instru- 
ments ; idols, and even the sacred ob- 
jects appertaining to their worship, and 
the furniture of the temple ; a series of 
Japanese coins and medals, and a com- 
plete set of Chinese coins, from the 2nd 
century before our era. 

The Botanical Garden deserves high 
praise, as a useful and instructive school 
for the student of botany. Those who 
look for fine hothouses and pretty gar- 
dens will be disappointed. It is under 
a twofold arrangement, according to 
the systems of Linnaeus and Jussieu. 
The collection of plants is very exten- 
sive, and is preserved in excellent order, 
under the superintendence of Professor 
Reinwardt and his able assistant Mr. 
Schurman. In the conservatories are 
reared the cinnamon, cinchona (from 
which come bark and quinine), coffee, 
cotton, mahogany, &c. A large flower- 
ing ash (Fraxinus ornus), in the open 
air, was planted by Boerhaave, who de- 
voted much time and attention to the 
formation and cultivation of this garden. 
Another curiosity is the trunk of a 
tree, which has been sawn asunder, and 
shows in the very centre an iron trident 
or fork buried in the middle of the wood. 

The large open space, called de 
Euine, in the street named Raperibarg, 
now planted with trees, was formerly 
covered with houses, 300 of which were 
demolished in 1807 by the fearful ex- 
plosion of a barge laden with gun- 
powder, while lying in the canal, in the 
very heart of the town. 150 persons 
were killed. The accident is said to 
have been caused by the bargemen 
frying bacon on the deck. 

In the Church of St. Peter, built 1315, 
is the monument of Boerhaave, the 
renowned physician, with the modest 
inscription, " Salutifero Boerhaavii 
Genio sacrum ;" surrounded by others 
in memory of the most distinguished 
worthies of the University, as Dodo- 
noeus, Spanheim, the two Meermans, 
Clusius, Scaliger, Camper, and others. 
Among them is one of a professor J. 
Luzac, killed by the explosion of 1807, 
representing him in bas-relief, in the 
state in which he was found after his 
death. 



Holland. 



IIOUTE 2. — LEIDEN. CHURCHES. KATW1JK. 



41 



In the Church of St. Pancras, called 
the Ilooglandschc Kerk, is the monu- 
ment of the brave burgomaster Van- 
derwerf, who refused to yield up the 
town to the Spaniards. 

The most frequented Promenade is 
without the walls, close by the side of 
that branch of the Rhine which waters 
and surrounds the town, shaded by a 
double rows of trees. In the neigh- 
bourhood of Leiden are the retreats of 
several distinguished men. In the 
Chateau of Endegcest (near Oestgeest) 
Descartes found an asylum ; and the 
country seat of Boerhaave still bears his 
name. 

Leiden is surrounded by windmills ; 
but they who inquire for that in which 
Rembrandt was born will hardly meet 
with a satisfactory answer. A short 
distance out of Leiden, on the 1. of 
the road to Utrecht, and on the 1. 
bank of the Rhine canal, is a mill built 
of brick, bearing a more antiquated ap- 
pearance than the rest, which is pointed 
out as the birthplace of the painter. 
It is recorded that his parents were 
owners of a corn-mill, situated between 
Laycrdorp and Koukerk. Otto Ven- 
ning, master of Rubens, 1556, Jan 
Stccn, 1636, Gerard Douw, W. Vande- 
veldc, Micris, and many other distin- 
guished painters, were born here ; as 
were the Elzevirs, famous printers, 
known by the editions of the classics 
bearing their name, and printed in 
Leiden. 

[About 8 m. from Leiden, on the sea- 
shore, is Katwijk, where the expiring 
Rhine is helped to discharge itself into 
the sea by means of a canal with gi- 
gantic sluice-gates. The mouth of the 
Rhine had remained closed from the 
year 840, when a violent tempest 
heaped up an impenetrable barrier of 
sand at its embouchure, until 1809, 
when the sluices were formed. As long 
as the river was left to itself, it was lost 
before it reached the sea in the vast 
beds of sand which it there encountered, 
and which either lay below the level of 
the tides, or were so flat that water 
could hardly pass through or drain off 
them. Thus only a small part of the 
Rhine, dribbling into insignificant 
streams, ever found its way out : the 



rest settled into stagnant pools, con- 
verting the whole district into a pesti- 
lential morass. To remedy this evil, 
and also to give a new outlet to the 
Haarlemmor Mcer and to the super- 
fluous waters of the district of the 
Rijnland, a wide artificial channel has 
been formed, provided with a triple set 
of sluices ; the first having 2 pair, the 
second 4 pair, and the last, nearest the 
sea, 7 pair of gates. When the tide 
flows the gates are shut to prevent the 
entrance of the sea, which at high water 
rises against them 12 ft., and the level 
of the sea on the outside is equal if not 
above that of the canal within. During 
ebb-tide the flood-gates are opened by 
means of machinery for 5 or 6 hours, 
to allow the accumulated streams to 
pass out, and, in their passage, to clear 
away the sands collected by the waves 
on the outside. It has been calculated 
that the volume of water passing out 
in a second equals 100,000 cubic* ft. 
When the sea is much agitated, and the 
wind, blowing towards the shore, pre- 
vents the tide retiring to its usual dis- 
tance, it is impossible to open the gates 
at all. The dykes which have been 
raised at the entrance of the canal, and 
on the sea-shore, are truly stupendous ; 
they are founded upon piles driven into 
the loose sand, and faced with solid 
masonry of limestone from Tournay. 
These hydraulic works were executed 
during the reign of King Louis Buo- 
naparte by an engineer named Conrad ; 
his name has been erased (because the 
inscription contained some praise of his 
master) from the work which does him 
so much credit, and confers so great a 
benefit on the surrounding district. 
But his services have not been forgotten 
by the powers that be, since, after his 
premature death, his three infant sons 
were educated and provided for at the 
public expense. 

This exit of the Rhine presents 
nothing very striking to the eye. The 
sight of a set of flood-gates, even though 
they surpass in strength and ingenuity 
any similar construction in Europe, 
will hardly repay a traveller who does 
not take a particular interest in su<h 
subjects for making a detour to Katwijk. 
Besides, there is hardly sufficient iden- 



42 



ROUTE 2. — RAILROAD FROM LEIDEN TO HAARLEM, Sect. I. 



tity with the Ehine in this diminished 
stream to arouse the imagination. This 
channel, it is true, retains conventionally 
the name of the Rhine ; hut the great 
river whose infant stream rises from 
under the glaciers of Mount Adula, and 
"which, after collecting from a thousand 
tributaries the melted snows of the 
Alps, forms a harrier between mighty 
nations, and pours its full stream among 
the sunny and vine-clad slopes of the 
Rheingau, and beneath the frowning 
and bristling crags of the Lurley and 
Ehrenbreitstein, now finds its way to 
the ocean by other channels. 

Close to the shore are salt-works and 
evaporating houses, where the sea- water 
is pumped up to the top of a large 
building with open sides, and allowed 
to trickle over faggots with which it is 
filled. It is thus treated several times, 
losing each time many of its watery 
particles, by the exposure to the air and 
suft, until at last it is converted to 
strong brine, and is transported to 
Leiden to be boiled.] 

Railroad from Leiden to Haarlem 
and Amsterdam : trains 4 times a-day 
in 1 hr. to Haarlem, 18 m. ; to Rot- 
terdam, 23 m., 4 times a-day. 

Warmond Stat. (College for Rom. 
Catholic priests.) Travellers interested 
about the draining of the Haarlem 
lake or machinery should stop at War- 
mond, and take a carriage from the 
inn there and go and see the Leegh- 
water-engine (see p. 48). Those who 
stop at Leiden will do better in taking 
a carriage thence, as the distance is 
not much greater from Leiden than 
from Warmond ; and, after having 
seen the Leeghwater, they may either 
return to Leiden or proceed to War- 
mond stat. The postmaster at Leiden 
charges 6 fl. for a carriage carrying 6 
persons, without the tolls. Driver 1 fi. 

About two-thirds of the distance 
from Leiden to Warmond the railway 
crosses the " Warmonder Leede," one 
of the navigable canals, which at the 
same time act as drains for conveying 
water from the interior of the country 
into and out of the Lake of Haarlem, 
by the dykes of Katwijk, as well as 
serving for commercial and agricultural 
purposes. The centre opening of the 



bridge here is a swing-bridge of a 
novel construction, on the system of a 
sliding-bridge. The nature of the soil 
between Leiden and the " Warmonder 
Leede " was such as to render it neces- 
sary to form the railway on fascines or 
faggots. The line is partly cut through 
bare sand-hills, the E. extremity of the 
Dimes (§ 12). It commands no view 
of the Lake of Haarlem, though it runs 
parallel with it, and not 2 m. distant 
from its margin. 

Piet-Gyzenbrug Stat. 

Veenenburg Stat. 

Hillegomerbeek Stat. Hillegom and 
Lisse, which are on the old high road, 
lying to the rt. of the railroad, are 
famous for the water zootje, a favourite 
delicacy of the Dutch, made with small 
perch from the Lake of Haarlem. 
Here, and at Alphen and Halfweg, can 
it alone be had in perfection. 

Vogelenzang Stat. Near Bennebroek. 
the canal of Leiden and the high road 
are both crossed by a bridge, built on 
the American trelliswork system, 177 
ft. in length, and at an angle of 30° 
with the canal. There are 3 ribs of 
lattice-work formed of red Riga deal. 

On approaching Haarlem the num- 
ber of country seats greatly increases. 
About 3 m. before reaching Haarlem, 
a little off the high road, is the ruined 
castle of Teilingen, the residence of 
the celebrated and unfortunate Jac- 
queline. 

61| m. — Haarlem Stat. Here re- 
freshments may be obtained, and bag- 
gage left. A street leads E. and W. 
from the station through the town, 
passing the market-place and the great 
Church, to the Houtpoort (gate of the 
wood), f hr's. walk. Within the 
park or public garden, called the Hout 
(wood), which is one of the boasts of 
Haarlem, 10 min. walk beyond the 
gate is the Pavilion, a house originally 
built by M. Hope, the banker, of Am- 
sterdam, sold afterwards to Louis Buo- 
naparte. It now belongs to the EIng, 
and the lower story is converted into a 
picture-gallery to contain the works of 
modern Dutch artists, belonging to his 
Majesty, formerly at the Hague. 
Among them are many creditable per- 
formances. It is open Fri. and Sat. 



Holland. 



ROUTE 2. — HAARLEM. ORGAN. PRINTING. 



43 



9-4; and on other clays (except Sun.) 
on giving a small fee (10 sti.). 

Haarlem. Inns: Lion d'Or (Goude 
Lccuw), Zyl Straat; good; the land- 
lady speaks English, and studies anx- 
iously the accommodation of her guests ; 
"Widow de Boer's Inn, at the Hout- 
poort, near the Wood. ■ Haarlem is 
situated on the Spaarn : it has 24,000 
inliah., just half of what it once con- 
tained. The most remarkable thing 
here is the Organ in the Great Church 
of St. Bavon. " This has been long 
one of the best established lions of the 
Continent, and must be owned alike by 
tho few and by the many to merit its 
high reputation. It was built by 
Christian Muller of Amsterdam, in 
1738, and was for many years assumed 
to be tho largest and finest organ in the 
world. Recently it has been surpassed 
in scale by our own instruments at 
York and Birmingham, and, it is said, 
by the new organ at Rotterdam, and 
rivalled, if not outdone, as to quality, 
by Mooser's capital organ at Fribourg 
in Switzerland. The number of pipes 
is 5000, the number of stops 60 ; it has 
3 manuals (rows of keys for the hands) 
and a pedal-board (for the feet). The 
organist's fee is 12 guilders (li.), and 1 
gl. for the blower, for his performance 
at private hours (precisely double his 
honorarium in Dr. Burncy's time) : it 
matters not how large the party. At 
this private performance the player 
makes a Liberal but tasteless exhibition 
of the solo stops in turn, including that 
which imitates bells and the far-famed 
vox humana stop, and winding up with 
' The Storm,' a piece of clap-trap 
music in the obsolete style of ' The 
Battle of Prague.' When ' The 
Storm ' is over strangers are invited to 
ascend into the organ-loft to examine 
the instrument ; they may also procure 
a specification of the stops, &c, from the 
organist. On certain days of the week, 
easily ascertained at the hotels (every 
Tuesday, 1848), a selection of music is 
played early after mid-day, to which 
all the world is admitted gratuitously. 
The supremacy of the Haarlem organ 
lies in its great and general beauty and 
sweetness of tone ; since, without dis- 
paragement of the marvels so dear to 



the valets-de-place, every musician 
must agree with Burncy, who remarked 
(a propos of this very instrument) that 
' all these enormous machines seem 
loaded with useless stops, or such as 
contribute to augment noise and to 
stiffen the touch.' The vox humana 
stop is to be heard in as great perfection 
at Gouda, and in more eminent and 
speaking beauty at Fribourg. In any 
case such travellers as are unwilling to 
expend a sovereign for their solitary 
delectation may content themselves with 
the public exhibition, for in this the 
organ and its component stops are fairly 
exhibited without their being put 
through the puppet-show antics dis- 
tasteful to every true musician. Pro- 
bably a slight fee will procure for those 
desiring it tho inspection of the instru- 
ment. But neither in public nor in 
private must the amateur expect to be 
regaled by a great player interpreting 
the great music befitting such a great 
organ." H. F. C. 

There are 5000 pipes in this, and 
4500 in the York organ. The greatest 
metal pipe at Haarlem is 15 inches in 
diameter, that of York 20 inches ; the 
Haarlem organ has only 2 pipes 32 
feet in length and 8 of 16 feet, while 
that of York has four of 32 feet and 20 
of 16 feet. 

The church itself is very high ; the 
nave is divided from the choir by a 
screen of brass, ornamented with cu- 
rious grotesque figures and foliage. 
In one of the walls a cannon-ball still 
remains embedded, a relic of the me- 
morable siege by the Spaniards in 1572. 
There is an extensive view from the 
church tower. 

The Dutch nation, and the inhabit- 
ants of Haarlem in particular, are very 
anxious to obtain for their townsman, 
Laurence Janszoon Coster, the credit of 
the invention of Printing, grounding 
his claims upon a dubious local tradi- 
tion, which cannot be traced farther 
back than the middle of the 16th cen- 
tiuy, and upon this passage in the 
Chronicle of Cologne (date 1499) : — 
" Before the art of printing was in- 
vented at Mainz, they bad minted in 
Holland, as is proved by the Donatus ;" 
but no mention is here made of Coster. 



44 



ROUTE 2. — HAARLEM. PRINTING. TULIPS. 



Sect. I. 



His statue is placed in the open market- 
place, near St. Bavon, fronting the house 
where he lived. His name was not Cos- 
ter, which is the name of his calling, 
viz. sexton to the church. His own 
was Jansz, according to his signatures, 
in which the word Coster is omitted. 
In the Stadhuis are preserved one or two 
small folios without date or printer's 
name, of the kind called block books, 
each page being printed in common 
ink from a single block, said to be of 
1428 (twelve years before Gutemberg's 
attempt) ; another, " Spiegel der 
Menschelijke Behoudenisse (Speculum 
humanas Salvationis)," in double co- 
lumn and printing ink, is referred to 
the year 1440. Along with them are 
shown specimens of the original blocks, 
or wooden types, invented and used by 
Coster. He may possibly have origin- 
ated the idea of taking off impressions 
with ink upon paper from solid wooden 
blocks. His attempts were made, it is 
said, as early as 1420-25, and may have 
led the way to the perfection of the 
invention. This seems to be the exact 
extent of his claim to the discovery. 
The merit of forming moveable metal 
types, or single letters cast in a mould, 
capable of being employed in many 
books successively — in fact, the art of 
printing— is now proved, almost beyond 
a doubt, to belong to John Gutemberg, 
of Mayence. The Dutch, however, do 
not abate their claims, and a controver- 
sial war is still waged on the subject. 
The argxrments in favour of Coster may 
be seen in Ottley, History of Engraving, 
vol. i. Haarlem still possesses a type- 
foundry, celebrated especially for He- 
brew and Greek types cast in it. 

The Stadhuis, which is an edifice 
older than the time of the siege (al- 
though 1630 is inscribed on it, and 
1633 on the projecting portico), also 
contains some excellent portraits by 
Franz Hals, a painter whose high emi- 
nence is little known in England, but 
who may here be appreciated. In one 
room is a group of 14 persons, including 
P. Maurice and Barneveldt, around a 
table ; likenesses of the town-guard, &c. 

Haarlem is also famous for its hya- 
cinths, tulips, and other flowers, which 
grow in the utmost luxuriance and 



beauty in a soil particularly congenial 
to them, viz.. an artificial combination 
of light sand with rotted cow-dung ; 
while water lies so near the surface 
that their roots readily find nourish- 
ment. The latter end of April and the 
beginning of May is the time when the 
beds are in their greatest beauty ; but 
it is at other seasons worth while to 
visit one of the numerous Nursery Gar- 
dens (Bloemen Tuin) in the S. outskirts 
of the town, where there is at all times 
something to be seen, and where roots 
and seeds may be purchased. The gar- 
dens of a great part of Europe are sup- 
plied from Haarlem, and there is little 
doubt that the taste of cultivating 
flowers originated in Holland ; but the 
trade in tulips is not carried on as in 
the days of the Tulipomania, and 100 
florins is now a very large sum for a root. 
" The enormous prices that were ac- 
tually given for real tulip bulbs, of 
particular kinds, formed but a small 
fraction of the extent to which the 
mercantile transactions in this gaudy 
flower were carried. If we may give 
credit to Beckman, who states it on 
Dutch authorities, 400 perits in weight 
(something less than a grain) of the 
bulb of a tulip named Admiral Leifken, 
cost 4400 fl. ; and 200 of another, 
named Semper Augustus, 2000 fl. Of 
this last, he tells us, it once happened 
there were only two roots to be had, 
the one at Amsterdam, the other at 
Haarlem ; and that for one of these 
were offered 4600 fl., a new carriage, 
two grey horses, and a complete set of 
harness ; and that another person offered 
12 acres of land. It is almost impos- 
sible to give credence to such madness. 
The real truth of the story is, that these 
tulip-roots were never bought or sold, 
but they became the medium of a sys- 
tematised species of gambling. The 
bulbs, and their divisions into perits, 
became like the different stocks in our 
public funds, and were bought and sold 
at different prices from day to day, the 
parties settling their account at fixed 
periods ; the innocent tulips all the 
while never once appearing in the 
transactions. ' Before the tulip season 
was over,' says Beckman, ' more roots 
were sold and purchased, bespoke and 



Holland. route 2. — haarlem. museums, the siege. 



45 



promised to be delivered, than in all 
probability were to be found in the 
gardens of Holland ; and when Semper 
Augustus was not to be had anywhere, 
which happened twice, no species per- 
haps was of tenor purchased and sold.' 
This kind of sheer gambling reached at 
length to such a height, that the go- 
vernment found it necessary to inter- 
fore and put a stop to it." — Family 
Tour in South Holland. 

The Teylerian Museum, an institution 
for tho promotion of learning, founded 
by an opulent merchant, after whom it 
is named, contains a few good paintings 
of modern Dutch artists, a remarkable 
collection of prints, especially rich in 
works of A. Ostade ; and a collection of 
coins and fossils : among the latter are 
one or two curious specimens, described 
by Cuvier, including the jaw of a fossil 
saurian, brought from the celebrated 
quarries at Maestricht, 1766, and a la- 
boratory well stored with philosophical 
instruments. 

The Haarlem Society possesses a 
Museum of Natural History. 

Haarlem is the head- quarters of the 
Dutch establishment of National Educa- 
tion, and here is the principal seminary 
for schoolmasters (Kweekschool voor 
Schoolonderwijzers) . 

Several Cotton Factories were esta- 
blished in this neighbourhood, under 
the patronage of the late King: they 
have increased both in number and 
the quantity of goods they manufacture 
since the separation of Holland from 
Belgium. 

There are extensive Bleacheries of 
linen here : they owe their reputation 
to some peculiar property supposed to 
exist in the water. Before the dis- 
covery of bleaching by chlorine, the 
fine linens made in Silesia, as well as 
those of Friesland, were sent hither 
to bo bleached ; and being then ex- 
ported direct to England, were named 
after the country from whence they 
were embarked, not that in which they 
were made. Such fabrics are still 
known in commerce by the name of 
Holland. 

Ilaarlem is the birth-place of the 
painters "Wynants, Ostade, Wouver- 
mans, Berghem, and Ruisdael. 



In the environs of Haarlem are some 
agreeable Walks, especially those con- 
structed on the site of the ancient Ram- 
parts, which no one should leave un- 
seen. Another walk is to Brederode, a 
ruined castle, which belonged to the 
lords of the same name. One of the 
family was the distinguished leader in 
the struggle which freed Holland from 
Spanish tyranny. Linnaeus resided 
long in the house of Hartekamp, near 
Bennebroek, between Haarlem and. Lei- 
den, then inhabited by the rich mer- 
chant Clifford, whose name and collec- 
tion he has immortalised in his work, 
the Hortus Clijfordianus. He also com- 
posed his ' System of Natural History ' 
while living there. A walk of 3 m. 
leads to the Bine Stairs, the highest 
summit of the Dunes (§ 12), whence a 
remarkable view may be obtained of 
these singular creations of the wind, 
and of the ocean beyond them. The 
way thither lies through tho village of 
Bloemendal (Inn : Zomerzorg). 

The citizens of Haarlem oven sur- 
passed their neighbours of Leiden in 
their brave resistance to the Spaniards. 
The siege of Haarlem preceded that of 
Leiden ; and as the distinguished con- 
duct of its defenders served as an ex- 
ample of patriotism to their fellow- 
countrymen, so the bloody tragedy 
which followed it, and the sacrilegious 
breach of faith on the part of the con- 
querors, lighted up a spirit of resist- 
ance and abhorrence of the Spaniards, 
which led the way to a long series of 
martial exploits performed by the 
Dutch in the sieges of Leiden and 
Alkmaar, and occasioned in a few short 
years the total expulsion of their op- 
pressors from Holland. Haarlem was 
by no means strongly fortified ; indeed, 
its external defences were weak in the 
eyes of an engineer, and even its re- 
sources within were but small. The 
garrison was limited to 4000 soldiers, 
among whom were some Scotch; but 
every citizen became a soldier for the 
occasion ; nay, not men alone, but even 
women, bore arms ; and a body of 300, 
under the guidance of the heroine 
Kenau Hasselaer, enrolled themselves 
in a company, and did duty with 
'shouldered pike and musket. Though 



46 



ROUTE 2. — HAARLEM. RAILWAY BRIDGE. 



Sect. I. 



the Spaniards had made formidable 
breaches in the walls near the gates of 
the Cross and of St. John, two assaults 
on them had failed; and, after seven 
months of fruitless hostilities and a 
loss of 10,000 men, they were com- 
pelled to turn the siege into a blockade. 
In order to maintain it with the utmost 
strictness, and to cut off all approach 
from the water, a fleet of war-boats 
was introduced upon the Lake of 
Haarlem. Several attempts on the 
part of their friends to throw in sup- 
plies totally failed ; the garrison, having 
consumed everything within the walls 
down to the grass which grew between 
the stones of the streets, and seeing no 
alternative but to die of starvation, de- 
termined to place the women and chil- 
dren in their centre, and cut their way 
through the enemy's camp. The Spa- 
niards, however, having heard of this, 
and fearing the effects of their despair, 
sent a flag of truce, and offered terms 
of pardon and amnesty, on condition of 
surrender of the town and 57 of the 
chief inhabitants. A condition so hard 
would not have been granted, had not 
these 57 devoted citizens voluntarily 
yielded themselves up. When the 
Spaniards entered, they found the gar- 
rison of 4000 reduced to 1800. Three 
days passed, and the promise given by 
the Spaniards was kept, and the arms 
of the townspeople were surrendered; 
but when all suspicion of treachery was 
lulled, the bloodhounds of the cruel Alva, 
and his son Ferdinand of Toledo, were 
let loose on the unsuspecting and now 
unarmed citizens. Eipperda, the go- 
vernor, and the 57 were first sacrificed ; 
and afterwards four executioners were 
called in and kept constantly at work, 
until 2000 persons, including the Pro- 
testant ministers, the soldiers of the 
garrison, and many citizens, had been 
inhumanly butchered in cold blood. 
Towards the conclusion of the tragedy 
the executioners became so exhausted, 
that the remaining victims were tied 
two and two, and thrown into the Lake 
of Haarlem. The siege lasted from 
December, 1572, to July, 1573. Four 
years after the town again fell into the 
hands of the Dutch. 

The excursion through North Holland 



(Route 4) commences here ; by follow- 
ing it the traveller may see the most 
interesting and primitive part of the 
country, and reach Amsterdam in 2 
or 3 days. 

Railroad, Haarlem to Amsterdam, 
12 m. Trains 4 times a-day, in 30 
min. Omnibuses convey passengers 
to and from the station at Haarlem 
for 15 c. = 3d., and at Amsterdam for 
20 c. = 4d. 

The railway bridge over the Spaarne, 
at Haarlem, is of iron, with six open- 
ings ; the two middle openings have a 
swing bridge of a very simple and solid 
construction, which opens and shuts 
both openings at the same time, to ren- 
der the passage of vessels as rapid as 
possible, as between 14 and 15 thousand 
pass through annually. The principal 
beams are each 75|- ft. long, and were 
cast in a single piece : the whole bridge 
weighs upwards of 110 tons, and the 
machinery for moving it is so perfect, 
that one man turns it easily in 2 
min. The bridge is only shut dur- 
ing the passage of the train : a self- 
acting signal is attached to it. The 
line throughout, between Haarlem and 
Amsterdam, is formed on fascines. In 
marshy spots all the earthworks are 
laid on beds of fascines more or less 
extensive according to the nature of 
the ground. Where the railway tra- 
verses pools of water, the fascines alter- 
nate with beds of rubble, and are held 
together by stakes and wattles, until 
the weight of the earth laid upon them 
becomes settled and the mass consoli- 
dated. The earthwork is chiefly com- 
posed of sand from the sea-beach, and 
is covered with turf. 

The road to Amsterdam leads out of 
a venerable gateway, a relic of the an- 
cient fortifications of the town, which 
probably withstood the attacks of the 
Spaniards during the memorable siege. 

Outside of the gates the traveller has 
before him a singularly monotonous 
prospect. The high road to Amster- 
dam runs as straight as an arrow as 
far as the eye can reach ; on one side 
of it is the equally straight canal, and 
nearly parallel with it the Railroad; 
on the other a iiniform row of willow- 
trees. The causeway, elevated above 



Holland. 



ROUTE 2. — LAKE OF HAARLEM. 



47 



the surrounding country, is carried 
along the summit of a dyke, whose 
prodigious strength alone restrains the 
waters of the Haaiiemmor Mecr, which 
presses on it on the rt. hand, and di- 
vides it from the fj, an arm of the 
Zuider Zee, on the 1. 

The Lake of Haarlem. — Independ- 
ently of the threats of the ocean from 
without, the Dutch have had here an 
enemy within their walls, as it were, 
who for many years made a gradual 
conquest of territory. Since the 15th 
cent, the body of water called the 
Lake of Haarlem has spread itself over, 
and, in fact, swallowed up, a large 
portion of the districts known as the 
Eijn and Amstel-land. Previous to 
that time the lake can scarcely he said 
to have existed, except that the spot 
now in the middle of it, and deep be- 
low the surface, was then occupied by 
a marsh of considerable extent. To- 
wards the end of the 16th cent, this 
realization of tne hydra began to gain 
lead ; and, in one sweeping inundation, 
4 small lakes, previously at some dis- 
tance from each other, owing to a rapid 
increase of their waters, burst, and 
united themselves permanently into 
one, overflowing the intervening space. 
At the same time, several villages, ori- 
ginally at a distance from the water, 
were surrounded by it, and compelled 
to assume a sort of amphibious exist- 
ence, half in and half out of the water ; 
and in this state they continue at pre- 
sent. The lake is now 11 leagues in 
circumference ; and the effect of the 
wind acting upon so large a surface, 
quite unsheltered from its fury, is ap- 
palling ; for, though the depth is slight, 
its waters are heaped up against the 
sides by a storm to such a height, that 
nothing but the strength and perfection 
of the dykes prevents the bordering dis- 
tricts, already partly below the level of 
the waters, from being swallowed up in 
ruin. The annual expense of keeping 
them in repair is enormous. 

The principal outlet for the lake is 
through the sluices of Katwijk ; and by 
means of them, and under skilful and 
unceasing management, the waters ,are 
no longer dangerous, though at one 
time they threatened to cut through the 



narrow neck, or isthmus, which joins 
North to South Holland, and convert 
the former into an island. 

" The borders of the lake arc studded 
with villas of the wealthy inhabitants 
of Amsterdam, and its waters arc 
covered with boats. The lake is 14 
ft. deep, 6 ft. of which only are 
water, and 8 ft. of mud, the alluvial 
de'bris of the mountains in Switzerland, 
washed down by the Rhine. The mud 
is used in the manufacture of the dur- 
able and valuable Dutch bricks called 
clinkers, with which houses are built 
and roads paved. The mud is a com- 
position of silicious earth and clay, 
blended by nature." — Dr. S. 

The States General of Holland have 
sanctioned a plan for converting the 
bed of the lake into arable and pasture 
land. Operations were commenced in 
the spring of 1840, by forming a water- 
tight double rampart or dyke and ring 
canal round the lake, into which the 
water is pumped up, to be discharged 
through the Katwijk, the Spaame, and 
the sluices at Halfwcg, into the sea. 

Three enormous pumping engines 
have been erected, one near Warmond, 
another opposite the old entrance of 
the Spaarne into the lake, and the third 
to the S.E. of Halfweg, and between it 
and Slooten. The average depth of the 
lake is 13 ft. below the general level 
of the sin-face water of the canal and 
water-courses conducting to the sea- 
sluices. The area is 45,230 acres ; the 
estimated contents to be pumped out 
about 800 million tons ; but should the 
quantity be increased by any unfore- 
seen cause, even to 1000 million tons, 
the whole amount could be evacuated 
by the three engines in about 400 days. 
The bed of the lake, when drained, 
must be always kept dry by machinery ; 
and observations continued during 91 
years show that the greatest quantity 
of rain which fell upon the area of the 
lake in that period would give 36 mil- 
lion tons as the maximum quantity of 
water to be elevated by the engines in 
one month ; to perform this work would 
require a force of 1084 horses' power 
to be exerted during that period : the 
average annual drainage is estimated at 
54 million tons. When the bed of the 



48 



ROUTE 2. — HAARLEM : DRAINING THE LAKE. 



Sect. I. 



lake is cultivated, tlie surface of the 
water in the drains will be kept at 
18 in. below the general level of the 
bottom. 

The engine called the Leeghwater 
(in honour of a celebrated Dutch en- 
gineer, who first proposed to drain the 
lake in 1623), which is near "Warmond, 
was the first erected. It lifts 11 
pumps, each of 63-in. diameter ; each 
pump is furnished with a cast-iron ba- 
lance, beam, and, except 3, the balance 
beams are placed opposite to each other 
in pairs, with a lift of 13 ft. The 
engine easily worked the 11 pumps 
simultaneously, the net load of water 
lifted being 81 "7 tons, and the dis- 
charge 63 tons per stroke. It has two 
concentric cylinders, the larger 144-37 
in., the smaller 84-25 in. in diameter. 
The interior cylinder is fitted with a 
plain piston of 5474-81 square in. area; 
the large cylinder is occupied by an 
annular piston of 10323*36 square in. 
area. With a consumption of 2| lbs. 
of coals per h.p. per hour, the engine 
exerts an effective power of 350 horses. 
It is impossible, from want of space 
and drawings, to explain here the mode 
in which the engine is worked. Per- 
sons interested in engineering will ob- 
serve the hydraulic apparatus by which 
the great cross-head and its load of 
dead weight is sustained at the end of 
the up stroke, in order to prevent any 
violent shock upon the pump valves by 
suddenly throwing them out against 
the sides of the pumps. The other two 
engines, called the Cruqums and Van 
Lynden, after two celebrated men who 
at various periods interested themselves 
in promoting the drainage of the lake, 
have about 100 h.p. more than the 
Leeghwater. They have also only 8 
pumps, but each of these are 73 in. in 
diameter. The engineers of these en- 
gines are Messrs. J. Gibbs and A. Dean ; 
and for further information on the sub- 
ject see a description of the engines 
drawn up by them in the Civil Engineer 
and Architect's Journal for Jan. 1847. 

' ' A visit to that engine, which stands 
where the Spaarne entered the Haarlem 
lake, may be easily made by getting a 
boat at Haarlem and rowing up the 
river. Those who don't like a boat 



may walk along the path on the eastern 
bank of the river, at the end of which 
is a ferry over to the dyke on which 
the engine stands."— 67. If. iV. 

The engines were tried in the sum- 
mer of 1849, and found to answer, 
having lowered the surface of the lake 
nearly 5 ft. Owing, however, to the 
difficulty of getting rid of the water 
thrown out by them into the canal 
flowing into the sea, whenever the 
wind blows strongly from the IS", and 
N.W., from which points it blew often 
during the following winter, the en- 
gines had to be stopped to avoid inun- 
dations. 

The approach to Amsterdam, over 
causeways traversing a broad expanse 
of water, resembles that which leads to 
Mexico. Another coincidence is that 
the Spaniards were engaged in a nearly 
similar contest in both places. During 
the siege of Haarlem there were fre- 
quent combats of an almost amphibious 
character, partly in boats', partly on the 
causeways, between the Dutch and the 
Spaniards, exactly bike those which 
took place between Cortez and the 
Mexicans. The Dutch had a second 
time occasion to resort to the like ex- 
pedient of flooding this part of the 
country, to resist the armies of Louis 
XIV. ; and, more recently, the same 
thing was done in the war of the 
French revolution, Jan. 1795. 

At Halfweg — half-icay between Haar- 
lem and Amsterdam (famed for water 
zootje, p. 42) — there is a portage in the 
canal, owing to an interruption, in con- 
sequence of the enormous sluices which 
separate the waters of the IT fro-ni those 
of the Haarlem Lake. The effect of 
opening them, and allowing the waters 
of the IJ to enter the Haarlem Meer, 
would be to submerge a great part of 
the province of Holland to a distance of 
30 m., with an inundation covering 
not only the meadows, but even the 
dykes themselves. " The relative height 
of the two waters is regulated by means 
of smices and gauge-posts, marked with 
very minute divisions ; and the greatest 
attention is paid to the state of the 
waters at this particular spot : it is one 
of the principal stations of the Water- 
staat (§ 9) ; the safety of Amsterdam 




1 Tlie Palace 

2 Stadlvuis 

3 Kew Eaxhana. 
AOudeKerk 

5 JVieUH'e Kerk 

6 Engl.Episc.Ch E 4 

7 Sc'otckPresb Ol D4 

8 B>rtug s . e S)7iag. L F 4 

9 Museum E 4 

10 Felix ; Mentis C 5 

11 Zeanoaishoop E 3 

12 Baringpahhery C 2 

13 Nieuu'e Studs 
Eeiberg D 2 

\AAinstel bridge F 5 

15 Jhitdi Tlteatre D 6 

16 German Tlieatre. E 4 

17 Frendi ZTieatre E 4 

18 Salon des Varietes tJTesL... D 4 

19 S.des Varietes (Amstselstil.JL 4 

20 Vaudeville Francois. D 5 

21 Frascati _ D 4 

22 Post Office, C 4 

23 Ealvcr Straat D4 D5 

!24 Ajnstel Sluice F 5 

25 JTieuwe Dyh C3 D3 

26 JSTieuweMarkt E 3 

27 Woorder Marht B 3 

28 Warmoes Straat __B 3 

29 Schreyers Toren. D 2 

Z0 Flower Market D 4 

31 KHoOand Canal D 1 

32 Botanic Garden. F 4 



-J it" a -1/i7c- 



red W JA- C .Walter. 



Holland. 



ROUTE 2. — AMSTERDAM. CANALS. 



49 



and the surrounding country from in- 
undations depending much upon the 
management of these two inland seas." 
— Family Tour. 

The road passes over the sluices, 
close to an old chateau called Zwanen- 
burg ; it then makes a bend, after which 
it continues in a straight line on to 
Amsterdam. 

The most conspicuous objects, on ap- 
proaching the town from the land side, 
are the windmills, one of which is 
perched on each of the 26 bastions, 
now no longer of use as fortifications ; 
they serve to grind the flour which 
supplies the town. The fosse surround- 
ing the town is 80 ft. wide. 

75 m. Amsterdam Terminus is a long 
way oif from the centre of the town. 
Omnibuses convey passengers for 4 sti- 
vers, and vigilantes for 15 stivers or 1 
guilder the hour. 

Amsterdam. — Inns : H. des Pays- 
Bas, Doelen Straat, good and comfort- 
able; Oude Doelen, same street, very 
good ; Nieuwe Doelen, in the Gainalen 
market, on the Singel, also good ; Ron- 
deel, Doelen Straat ; H. du Vieux 
Comte, in the Kalver Straat, a quiet 
house. 

The principal city of Holland is 
situated at the confluence of the river 
Amstel with the arm of the Zuider Zee 
called the IJ (pronounced Eye), which 
in front of Amsterdam is from 8 to 9 
fathoms in depth, and forms a well- 
sheltered road. It has 212,000 in- 
hab. Its ground-plan has somewhat 
the shape of a crescent, or half-bent 
bow; the straight line, representing 
the string, rests on the IJ, and the 
curved line forms its boundary on the 
land side. Its walls are surrounded by 
a semicircular canal or wide fosse, and 
within the city are 4 other great canals, 
all running in curves, parallel with the 
outer one. They are called Prinsen 
Gracht, Keizers Gracht, Ileeren Gracht, 
and Singel, the last being the inner- 
most, The Keizcrs Gracht is 140 ft. 
wide. They are lined with handsome 
houses ; each of the first 3 is at least 2 
m. long, and in their buildings as well 
as dimensions may bear comparison 
with the finest streets in Europe. The 
various small canals which intersect the 

[n. a.] 



town in all directions are said to divide 
it into 95 islands, and to be traversed 
by no loss than 290 bridges. It has 
been calculated that the repair of 
bridges, cleansing and clearing canals, 
and repairing dykes, in Amsterdam 
alone, amounts to several thousand 
guilders daily. This will be better un- 
derstood when it is known that, were it 
not for the most skilful management of 
sluices and dykes, the city of Amster- 
dam might be submerged at any mo- 
ment, All things considered, it is one 
of the most wonderful capitals in Eu- 
rope ; in the bustle of its crowded 
streets, and in the extent of its com- 
mercial transactions, it is surpassed by 
very few. It is said to be between 7 
and 9 m. in circumference. In the 
strange intermixture of land and water 
it may be compared to Venice ; and the 
splendour of some of its buildings, 
though not equalling that of the Sea 
Cybele, may be said to approximate to 
it, but the houses are almost all of 
brick, and the canals differ from those 
of Venice in being lined with quays. 

The whole city, its houses, canals, 
and sluices, are founded upon piles ; 
which gave occasion to Erasmus to say 
that he had reached a city whose in- 
habitants, like crows, lived on the tops 
of trees. The upper stratum is literally 
nothing more than bog and loose sand ; 
and until the piles are driven through 
this into the firm soil below, no struc- 
ture can be raised with a chance 
of stability. In 1822 the enormous 
corn warehouses, originally built for 
the Dutch East India Company, ao 
tually sank down into the mud, from 
the piles having given way. They 
contained at the time more than 70,000 
cwt. of corn : a weight which the foun- 
dation beneath was incapable of sup- 
porting. A kind of hackney-coach 
called Sleepkoets, still seen, though less 
common than formerly, in Amsterdam, 
consists of the body of a coach or fly, 
mounted upon a sledge drawn by one 
horse, while the driver, walking beside 
him, holds in one hand a bit of cloth or 
rag dipped in oil and fastened to the end 
of a string ; this he contrives to drop, at 
intervals, under the runners of the 
sledge to diminish the friction. It has 

D 




]<> Febx Mentis Co 

11 ZtiTaoitsbinifi E 3 

12 Harinapak-kny C 2 

13 Kiawc Stails 
Berbery D 1 

M Jm.rf./ bridge F J 

15 A/ft/i Theatre D 6' 
1C German Theatre E 4 

17 t)v/idi Theatre E 4 

18 Salon dr.. Variety (Hal. D4 

19 S.detrariet*tfAm*b3elH E4 

20 Vaudeville Fnmeuut D ."> 

21 FratcaJi O'l 

22 7!«f g^iae C •/ 

23 h'ulva- Stnial D4 D a 
2-1 ^nufel .*'//««• F.i 
2.'> JT„/„v JJi/l- C3 D 3 
2(1 TKeUMmJUarkt K 3 
17 Hoarder Markl B 3 
38 Warmoes .Vft«,// D 3 

29 Sehretjers Tortvi D 2 

30/Wa-.IW,v* IW 

31 H.Holland Canal D / 

32 Bolani&6ajrden F ■/ 



Published by John Murray Albemarle Street London 1840. 



Ellgravea Ty J.fc C .Wal kcr. 



50 



EOUTE 2. AMSTERDAM. PALACE. 



Sect. I. 



been often said that a police regulation 
restricts the use of wheels, from fear 
lest the rattling of heavy carriages over 
the stones should shake and injure the 
foundation of the buildings : this, how- 
ever, is not true. Heavy burdens are 
almost entirely transported along the 
canals, and from thence to the ware- 
houses on similar sledges. Omnibuses 
ply through the town and to the rail- 
way station. 

The havens and canals are shallow, 
being about 8 ft. deep at ordinary water. 
They are, therefore, fit for the Hhine 
vessels and Dutch coasters, but do not 
admit vessels for foreign trade. These 
lie along the booms and in front of the 
town, and the goods are transferred by 
means of the numerous canals of the 
city. There is a good deal of mud 
deposited at the bottom of the canals, 
which when disturbed by the barges 
produces a most noisome effluvia in hot 
weather, when the water is said to 
" grow." Dredging-machines are con- 
stantly at work to clear out the mud, 
which is sent to distant parts as manure. 
Mills have also been employed to give 
an artificial motion to the waters, and 
prevent their becoming stagnant; but 
the same object is now attained by more 
simple means. To effect a circulation 
in the canals is most essential to the 
health of the inhabitants. The Amstel 
at its entrance into the city is 11 in. 
below the mean level of the German 
Ocean, the lowest tide is only 1^- ft. 
lower than the Amstel. It is therefore 
evident that the canals can be emptied, 
and that partially, only at low water. 
The Damrak is the point of discharge. 
At high water the sluices which admit 
the Amstel into the town are closed for 
a short time, and the sea- water allowed 
then to circulate through the town, 
until it is again expelled by the river. 

The vast dams thrown up within a 
few years in front of the town, for a 
great distance along the side towards 
the IJ, resist the influx of the sea into 
the mouths of the canals, and are pro- 
vided with flood-gates of the strongest 
construction, to withstand the pressure 
of high tides. 

The Palace (het Palais), formerly The 
Stadlmis, is a vast and imposing edifice 



of stone, standing upon 13,659 piles 
driven 70 ft. deep into the ground. 
The architect was Van Campen; the 
first stone was laid 1648, and the build- 
ing finished 1655. It was originally 
occupied by the magistracy, for town 
councils, judicial tribunals, and the like. 
During the reign of Louis Buonaparte 
it became his palace, and the late King 
resided in it whenever he visited 
Amsterdam. The main entrance is be- 
hind. The treasures of the once cele- 
brated bank of Amsterdam, which used 
to regulate the exchanges of Europe, 
were kept in the vaults below the 
building. It is chiefly remarkable for 
one grand Hall, occupying the centre 
of the building, lined with white Italian 
marble, 120 ft. long and 57 ft. wide, 
and nearly 100 ft. high. The sculp- 
tured bas-reliefs which adorn the build- 
ing are by Arthur Quellin, and deserve 
notice as works of art, those especially 
which adorn the two pediments ; many 
of those in the interior are appropriate 
and well executed : thus over the door 
of the room which was the secretary's 
is a dog watching his dead master, and 
a figure of Silence with her finger on 
her lips, as emblems of fidelity and 
secrecy. The Bankrupt Court contains 
a group representing Daedalus and 
Icarus — in allusion to rash speculations 
and their ruinous consequences. In the 
Audience Chamber is a large picture, by 
Wappers, of Van Speyk blowing up his 
ship. It is worth while to see the View 
from the tower on the summit of the 
building. This is the best place to 
obtain a tolerably correct idea of this 
wonderful city, with its broad canals, 
avenues of green trees mnning through 
the heart of the town, houses with 
forked chimneys and projecting gables, 
many of them bowing forward or lean- 
ing backwards, from subsidence in their 
foundations. These form the fore- 
ground or" the picture. The horizon 
extends on the N". side over the Zuider 
Zee, over the IT, to the numerous wind- 
mills and red roofs of Zaandani, the 
N". Holland canal and the towers of 
Alkmaar; S. over the expanse of the 
Haarlem Meer, about shortly to disap- 
pear, and to be ploughed by the share 
and no longer by the keel ; S.E. appear 



Holland. 



ROUTE 2. — AMSTERDAM. CHURCHES. 



51 



the towers of Utrecht and Amersfort ; 
and "W. the spire of Haarlem, with the 
straight canal and railway pointing 
towards it. 

The present Stadhuis, or Town Hall, 
on the Achter Burgwal, (formerly the 
Admiralty,) contains good pictures — 
portraits of hurgomasters and citizens 
of Amsterdam, by Van der Heist, Frans 
Hals, Govert Flinch, &c. ; also a capital 
Lingelbach, a view of the palace while 
building ; and a view of it finished by 
Van der Ulft. 

The New Exchange stands in front of 
the palace : its construction was a work 
of great difficulty on account of the 
looseness of the soil, a mere turbary or 
bog, which caused the foundations to 
give way when the building was hardly 
above ground. — 4 P as * 3 o'clock is the 
daily hour of high change : those who 
enter after the time must pay a small 
fine. 

The Churches of Amsterdam, stripped 
of almost every decoration at the 
Reformation, are in themselves rather 
barren of interest, forming a complete 
contrast to the richly ornamented struc- 
tures of Belgium. 

The Oude Kerk (Old Church), in the 
"Warmoes Straat, has 3 fine windows of 
painted glass, executed between 1549 
and 1648; the tombs of several Dutch 
admirals ; a list of the persons killed 
in Amsterdam by the Anabaptists, 1535 ; 
and a fine set of chimes. The organ is 
esteemed by many not inferior, as to 
tone, to that of Haarlem. "It is as 
gorgeously framed as if it had been con- 
trived for some Jesuits' church. The 
gallery in which it stands is richly in- 
laid with porphyry and white marble : 
its case is florid, with the most heavy 
and profuse carving and gilding. The 
tones are rich, firm, and brilliant. It 
has 68 stops, 3 rows of keys, and a full 
complement of pedals. In short, it is a 
first-rate instrument. Dr. Burney, in 
his ' Musical Tour,' mentions that this 
organ — in his day a celebrated instru- 
ment — had been finished 12 years be- 
fore his visit (or about 1760), by Batti, 
of Utrecht, in completion of an organ 
begun in 1736."— H. F. C. 

The Nieince Kerk (so called, though 
built in 1408), on the Damrak, close to 



the palace, is one of the finest churches 
in Holland : it has a fine open screen of 
brass. It contains, among many public 
monuments, those of Admiral de Ruiter, 
the commander who sailed up the Med- 
way and burnt the English fleet at 
Chatham, who at different times con- 
tended with the English admirals Blake, 
Monk, and Prince Rupert, and who 
commanded the Dutch at the battle of 
Solebay. He is styled, in his somewhat 
pompous epitaph, "immensi tremor 
Oceani." There are also monuments to 
Captain Bentinck, killed in the battle 
of Doggerbank, 1781, and to the poet 
Vondel. The most recent monument is 
one to the memory of Van Speyk, who 
blew up himself and his ship, in the 
Scheldt, 1831, rather than yield, to the 
Belgians. (Rte. 18, p. 118.) The 
splendidly carved pulpit, with its huge 
sounding-board, was executed by Albert 
Vincken Brinck, in 1649. 

The churches in Holland are, per- 
haps, more numerously and regularly 
attended than even in England. The 
sermons to be preached on Sunday are 
announced beforehand in placards, like 
play-bills with us. The congregation 
sit during the sermon with their hats 
on or off, indifferently, just as the mem- 
bers in our H. of Commons. In most 
of the churches service is performed 3 
or 4 times. The minister wears the 
costume of the Puritans in Charles I.'s 
time — a short black cloak reaching a 
little below his knee, with a ruff round 
his neck. 

There is an English Episcopal Church 
here on the Groene Burgwal; service 
at 10^ A.M. A Scotch Presbyterian 
Church has long been established 
here. 

The Jews, who form one-tenth of the 
population of the town, and reside in a 
particular quarter, have 4 Synagogues : 
the most splendid is that of the Portu- 
guese, in the Muider straat, which is 
worth visiting. The streets leading to 
it seem but a repetition of Monmouth 
Street, St. Giles's — the same dirt and 
filthy smells, the same old clothes, evi- 
dently the staple commodity, with odds 
and ends, heaped up, as it were, from 
all quarters of the world. Nevertheless 
the Jews of Amsterdam are, from their 

d2 



52 



ROUTE 2. — AMSTERDAM. PICTURE GALLERY. 



Soot. I. 



wealth, a very influential body. Spi- 

nosa, the metaphysician, was b native 

of Amsterdam, and a Jew by birth 
(1632). 

The Museum or Picture Gallery — 
placed in the Tripponhuis (a name de- 
rived from its former owner), in the 
Kloveniershurgwal is open to the public 

Thura. and Ftl, from 10 to 3: on other 

days it La usual to give a guilder to the 
"keeper for admission. Many of the 
pictures are attached to shutters, which 
admit of being drawn forward upon 
hinges in order that they may be seen 
under the most favourable lights. It is 
completely a National Gallery, being 
composed almost entirety of works of 
the Dutch school, of which it contains 
many chefs-d'oeuvre. 

The finest picture in the collection 
is that painted by Van der Heist, 
"the miracle of the Dutch school," 
representing the City Guard of Am- 
sterdam met to celebrate the Treaty 
of Minister, 1648 ; an event which, as 
it first confirmed the independence of 
the Dutch nation, was justly considered 
■a subject worthy the pencil of the 
artist. The figures, 25 in number, are 
portraits ; the names are inscribed above, 
hut there are no persons in any way 
distinguished among them. One of 
them represents the lieutenant of the 
company, and his dress is the uniform 
of the Dutch schutterij (militia') of that 
period. " This is, perhaps, the first 
picture of portraits in the world, com- 
prehending more of those qualities 
which make a perfect portrait than any 
other I have ever seen. They are cor- 
rectly drawn, both head and figure, and 
well coloured, and have a great variety 
of action, characters, and countenances; 
and those so lively and truly expressing 
what they are about, that the spectator 
has nothing to wish for. Of this pic- 
ture I had heard great commendations ; 
hut it as far exceeded my expectation 
as that of Rcmbrand, the Wight Watch, 
fell below it." It. Portraits of 3 mem- 
bers of the Archers' Guild, seated at a 
table, holding the prizes for the best 
shots, a sceptre, a goblet, and a chain ; 
a fourth man, said to be the painter, a 
woman, and a dog. In the background 
;ung marksmen. Sir Joshua calls 



it an admirable picture. Portrait of 
Mary, daughter 01 Charles I., wife of 
William II., 1*. of Orange, and mother 

of William III. of England. Van der 
Heist is a scarce master, and his works 
arc nowhere to be found in equal per- 
fection with those at Amsterdam. 

Backhuysm. — The Pensionary John 
de Witt embarking on board of the 
Fleet in 1665. A view of Amsterdam. 
Berghem. — Several fine Landscapes ; 
one particularly, called an Italian Land- 
scape. Ferdinand Bol. — Portrait of Ad- 
miral de Ruiter. 

Gaspar Grayer. — -The Adoration of the 
Shepherds. A Descent from the Cross. 
Cuyp and Both. — Some admirable land- 
scapes. 

Gerard Douw. — The Evening School, a. 
painting in which the effect of candle- 
light is wonderfully portrayed : no less 
than 5 different lights are introduced 
into the picture, and variously thrown 
upon the 12 figures which compose it. 
A Hermit in a Cave before a Crucifix, 
surprisingly finished. 

Hondekoeter. — Several pictures of 
fowls, game, rare birds, &c, unequalled 
in their class probably in the world. 
One of the most remarkable is that 
known as " the Floating Feather," in 
which a Pelican is introduced with 
Ducks swimming. Van Huysum, — 
Fruit and Flower pieces. 

Carl du Jardin. — Portraits of the 5 
Governors of the Spinhouse at Amster- 
dam. " They are all dressed in black ; 
and, being upon a light hackground, 
have a wonderfiil relief. The heads 
are executed with a most careful and 
masterly touch, and the repose and har- 
mony of colouring spread over the whole 
picture are admirable." R. The por- 
traits of this artist are rare, as he is 
generally looked upon as a painter of 
landscapes, sheep, and small figures. 
There arc 3 other good pictures by him, 
and no other collection probably pos- 
sesses works of his showing equal 
excellence. 

Lievens. — Portrait of Vondel, the Poet. 

M'iereveld. — Portraits of William I. 
and Maurice, Princes of Orange. 

OsLade, A. — The Painter in his Study. 
Ostade^ •/. — A laughing Peasant with a 
jug in his hand. 



Holland. 



ROUTE 2 . AMSTERDAM. PICTURES. 



53 



Paul Potter. — A Landscape with Cat- 
tle, and a Woman suckling a Child. 
Orpheus charming the Beasts. A Bear 
Hunt, one of the few paintings by this 
master in which the figures are as large 
as life. A part of the original painting 
has peeled off the canvas. 

Rembrand. — The picture called the 
Night Watch probably represents a com- 
pany of archers, with their leader, 
Captain Kok, going out to shoot at the 
butts. It appears to have been much 
damaged, " but what remains seems to 
be painted in a poor manner." — u So far 
am I from thinking it deserves its great 
reputation that it was with difficulty I 
could persuade myself that it was painted 
by Rembrand : it seemed to me to have 
more of the yellow manner of Boll. 
The name of Rembrand, however, is 
certainly upon it, with the date, 1642." 
R. — This unfavourable opinion of Sir 
Joshua is not confirmed by judges of art 
in the present day, who consider that 
he does injustice to one of the finest 
and most wonderful productions of the 
great painter. Another first-rate paint- 
ing is the portraits of 5 Masters of the 
Drapers' Company and their servant. 
They are seated round a table, appa- 
rently conversing on matters of business. 
The heads are finely painted, partic\i- 
larly the one nearest to the right. 
There are parts of this painting which, 
in force of execution, the painter pro- 
bably never surpassed. Ruisd'ael. — A 
magnificent waterfall. The castle of 
Bentheim. The same subject is to be 
found at Dresden. 

Schalken. — William III., a portrait 
by candlelight. H. Walpole says that 
the artist made the King hold the can- 
dle until the tallow ran down and burnt 
his hand. Two Boys ; one eating soup, 
the other an egg, with his face slobbered 
over by the yolk ; called " Eveiy one to 
his fancy ;" which motto is written on 
the picture. Jan Stem is, perhaps, no- 
where seen to greater ■ advantage. A 
Baker at a Window, and a Boy blowing 
a Horn to let the neighbours know that 
the rolls are ready. A Village Q^iack. 
The Fete of St. Nicholas, an occasion 
when the Dutch every year make pre- 
sents of bonbons to their children who 
behave well, while the naughty ones 



are left without anything, or receive a 
whipping. The story is admirably told 
in this picture, which is a chef-d' oeuvre 
of the master.. Snyders. — Dead Wild- 
fowl. 

Teni'ers.. — Temptation of St. Anthony. 
A Peasant drinking and smoking. 
Terburg. — A Lady in White Satin taBi- 
ing with a lady and gentleman. Her 
back only is seen, but the whole atti- 
tude shows, that she is struggling with 
her feelings. (See Kugler, § LV. 5.) 
The Ministers at the Congress of Mini- 
ster. 

A. Vandvr Venne. — Portrait of William 
I., taken after his death. W. Vande- 
velde. — View of Amsterdam,, from the 
Schreijershoek Tower; dated 1686. 
" One of the most capital works of this 
artist." R. Paintings of the Sea Fight 
between the Dutch and English, which 
lasted 4 days, and in which the Dutch 
were victorious : one represents the 
battle between De Ruiter and General 
Monk, in which 4 English linc-of- 
battle ships were taken. Calms at Sea, 
painted with the most exquisite clear- 
ness, and with that wonderful effect 
of distance over the surface of the 
water which is the peculiar excellence 
of Yandevelde. Vandyh. — Portraits of 
the Children of Charles I. : one of 
them, the Princess Mary, became the 
wife of William II., Prince of Orange. 
Francis Yan der Borght, a masterly 
portrait. 

Weeni'x. — Dead Game. Wbuvcrmans. 
— A Stag Hunt, in this artist's best 
manner. The Chasse au Vol, Hawking 
Party. A picture representing officers 
plundered and bound by peasants. The 
horse is exquisitely painted. All three 
are very fine :. there are others of great 
excellence, as, a Landscape, with a 
white Horse.. 

The Museum also contains one of the 
most remarkable collections of prints in 
Europe, particularly rich in the Dutch 
and. Flemish masters, formed by Mr. 
Van Leyden, and purchased by Louis 
Buonaparte, K. of Holland. It occupies 
200 portfolios. 

In the Spin-house, or prison for female 
offenders, in the Nieuwe Prinsen Gracht, 
are several pictures and portraits of 
directors of the establishmaent, by Ru~. 



54 



ROUTE 2. — AMSTERDAM. CHARITIES. INSTITUTIONS. Sect. I. 



bens and Vandyh, exceedingly fine, and 
well worth notice. 

There are several first-rate Private 
Collections of pictures in Amsterdam: 
that belonging to M. Six (Heerengracht, 
bij de Vijzelstraat, No. 4005) contains 
Bembrand's portrait of the Burgomaster 
Six, painted with great power and 
effect ; and of Madame Six, a wonderful 
picture. — G. Douw, A Girl with a Bird- 
cage, exquisitely finished. — Metzu, A 
Fishwife. — Cuyp, Sunny Landscape, 
ships and water ; and a moonlight 
view. — V. der Neer, Moonlight. — Hob- 
bema, Landscape. — Buisdael, ditto. — 
Wynants, ditto. — Paul Potter, Cattle ; 
good. — Jan Steen, A Jewish Marriage. 
WeeniXj Dead Game. These were 
painted for the places on the walls 
which they occupy, and hang in their 
original black frames. 

The cabinet of M. van der Hoop 
(Keizersgracht, bij het Molenpad, No. 
5934) is also first-rate ; it is most taste- 
fully arranged in his elegant mansion. 
He has an excellent Landscape by H. 
Vandevelde, with figures of the painter 
and his family ; and one of the finest 
Ostades known, from the cabinet of the 
Duchesse de Berry. The gallery of 
Mr. van Loon contains first-rate pictures 
of the Dutch school ; and that of Mr. 
van Brienen many fine specimens of it. 
These two galleries may, perhaps, be 
seen by applying, by letter, to the own- 
ers, or, in then- absence, through Mr. J. 
de Vries, a broker in works of art. 

Amsterdam is remarkable for the 
number and extensive bounty of the 
Charitable Institutions which it supports, 
for the most part, by voluntary contri- 
butions of its benevolent citizens. It 
is recorded that, when some one in con- 
versation with Charles II. prognosti- 
cated speedy ruin to the city from the 
meditated attack of Louis XIV.' s armies, 
Charles, who was well acquainted with 
the country from a long residence in it, 
replied, "I am of opinion that Provi- 
dence will preserve Amsterdam, if it 
were only for the great charity they 
have for their poor." This city alone, it 
is said, numbers no fewer than 23 insti- 
tutions of benevolence, including hos- 
pitals for the reception of the aged and 
infirm, the insane, orphans and widows, 



foundlings, &c, some of them attached 
to the churches of peculiar religions, 
others open to all sects without distinc- 
tion. At one time more than 20,000 
poor people received their daily bread 
and board from charity. 

Some of the almshouses, such, for in- 
stance, as the hospital for Protestant old 
men and women, on the Amstel, look 
more like princes' palaces than lodgings 
for poor people. The Burgher Orphan 
Asylum receives 700 or 800 children, boys 
and girls, until they are 20 years of age ; 
and before they are sent out into the 
world they are instructed in some trade 
or profession. They are well taken care 
of, and are very healthy. 

The orphan children of the different 
asylums are generally distinguished by 
a particular dress : those of the Protes- 
tant Burgher House (in which Van 
Speyk was brought up) wear black and 
red jackets; the girls of the Boman 
Catholic Orphan House wear black, 
with a white band round the head : the 
orphans educated in the Almosoniers' 
Orphan House are dressed in black, and 
wear round the left arm the colours of 
the town — a black, red, and white band, 
with a number. The intention of these 
costumes is to prevent their entrance 
into playhouses, gin-shops, or other 
improper places ; a severe penalty being 
inflicted on persons who should admit 
children thus attired. 

There is also a class of Provident In- 
stitutions here and in other Dutch towns, 
called Provenlers Huisen (providers' 
houses), for the reception and comfort- 
able maintenance of old men and women, 
who pay a comparatively small sum, 
proportioned to their age (e. g. from 50 
to 55 years, 2000 guilders ; 55 to 60, 
1500; 70 years and upwards, 500 guil- 
ders), for admittance, and are sxipported 
in respectability to the end of their days. 
They form a very suitable retreat for 
domestic servants, who by timely sav- 
ings may obtain an entrance ; indeed, 
masters and mistresses sometimes re- 
ward old and faithful domestics by pay- 
ing for their admission. 

The poor throughout Holland arc 
generally supported by vomntary con- 
tributions. In all the churches collec- 
tions are made every Sunday by the 



Holland. route 2. — Amsterdam, prisons, societies. 



55 



deacons, who go roxuid to all present, 
carrying a little bag attached to the end 
of a stick, like a landing-net, with a 
monitory bell fixed to it, into which 
every person drops something suited to 
his means. 

There are also good institutions for 
the blind, and deaf and dumb. 

The Prisons of Amsterdam were placed 
upon a good foundation before those of 
other countries in Europe, and originally 
surpassed all others. They are now, 
however, in many respects, inferior to 
similar improved establishments in Eng- 
land and America. 

The Rasp-house was a penitentiary 
for the reception of impostors, petty 
thieves, vagrants, brawlers, &c, and 
was so called because its inmates were 
originally employed in rasping logwood. 
It is now converted into a temporary 
arrest-house. By one of the original 
ordinances of the Rasp-house, a refrac- 
tory prisoner, who refused to execute 
his allotted task of rasping, was placed 
in a cell into which water was admitted, 
which, if not kept under by his own 
exertions at a pump, swelled over his 
head, and drowned him. 

The Spin-house, or House of Correc- 
tion for females, contains about 150 
inmates condemned to hard labour for 
periods varying from 6 months to 12 or 
14 years. One division of it was for- 
merly devoted to the correction of of- 
fences which may rank between a fault 
and a crime ; such as in other countries 
are punished by the domestic code, but 
for which family authority is not always 
sufficiently strict in enforcing punish- 
ment ; though at the same time the dis- 
cipline of a prison would be too severe. 
Thus a disobedient child, an extravagant 
wife, or a drunken husband, if their 
offence were proved against them, and 
they were sent hither by their friends, 
were subjected to modified coercion and 
restraint, until, by penitence and pro- 
mise of amendment, they should have 
atoned for their misdemeanours. 

"Whether these various establish- 
ments are capable of relieving the whole 
mass of human wretchedness which this 
capital, in common with all large cities, 
must contain, would require a long re- 
sidence to determine ; but we could not 



help making the same remark here as in 
Rotterdam — that in all our rambles wo 
had not met with a drunken person in 
the streets ; nay, more, that we had not 
observed a man, woman, or child in 
rags, or met with a real object of com- 
passion, in any part of the town ; and 
the only beggars that accosted us, and 
those were in some of the lower parts of 
the town, were decrepit old men." — 
Family Tour m 8. Holland. 

The Dutch are not altogether ab- 
sorbed in commerce, so as to be able to 
devote no time to literature and the arts ; 
witness the society called Felix Meritis, 
from the first words of a Latin inscrip- 
tion placed upon the building, which is 
founded and supported entirely by mer- 
chants and citizens. The building is 
situated in the Keizers Gracht. In its 
nature it bears some resemblance to the 
Royal Institution in London. It con- 
tains a library, museum, collections of 
casts of ancient statues, of chemical and 
mathematical instruments, a reading- 
room, and a very fine concert-room and 
observatory. Lectures are given in 
various branches of art, science, and 
literature. Though there is little in the 
building, perhaps, to take up the time 
of a stranger merely passing through 
the city, any intelligent individual, about 
to reside here, would find it an agreeable 
resource. 

There are many other useful societies, 
the most prominent being the Associa- 
tion for the Promotion of the Public Weal 
(Maatschappij tot nut van't algcmccn). 
It was established in 1784, by a simple 
Baptist clergyman named Nieuwen- 
huizen, at Monnikendam, and it now 
numbers 200 offsets or branch societies, 
and 13,000 members, extending all over 
Holland. Its object is the instruction 
and improvement in condition of the 
lower classes : 1. By promoting the 
education of the young, improving 
school books, establishing Sunday 
schools, and providing for the children 
after quitting school — establishing book 
societies and libraries for the poor. 

2. By extending information to adults 
by popular writings, public lectures, and 
the institution of banks for saving. 

3. By the distribution of public rewards 
to the industrious and virtuous among 



56 



UOITTE 2. — AMSTEH1UM. MODES OF LIVINO. 



Sect. I. 



the poorer classes; bestowing medals on 

such as have risked their lives in pre* 

serying those of others, &o, The head- 
quarters of this admirable society are at 
Amsterdam, where an animal meeting 
of the members is held on the second 
Tuesday of August. A subscription of 
5 or 6 guilders yearly constitutes a 
member. Its influence had begun to 
extend to Belgium before the revolution 
of 1830, but has since been checked and 
totally suppressed by the priests. 

The Promenades are the Plantaaje, 
or Plantation, at the end of the Heercn 
Gracht, surrounded by canals, and not 
far from the dockyards. 

The high bridge over the Amstel, near 
the place -where it enters the town, " in 
a fine broad sheet of water, and with 
scarcely perceptible current," is one of 
the most favourable points for obtaining 
a view of the town. The Amstel river 
is a great trunk of navigation. It is 
embanked, and navigable 11 m., to 
the boundary of the district at Amstel- 
mondhard, where it divides into 2 
branches, which unite with numerous 
canals, both in this district and that of 
Rijnland. The banks of the Amstel, 
outside the Utrecht gate, are also much 
resorted to. 

The want of spring- water is a great 
evil and inconvenience in this large city. 
The houses are provided with tanks, in 
which every drop of rain that falls is 
treasured up : this is used by the better 
classes for culinary purposes. Drinking 
water is brought from Utrecht in stone 
bottles : but the main supply comes from 
the liver Vecht above Weesp, about 12 
m. off, in very large water-barges, 
called Lcijtjcrs, which may be seen on 
the various canals ; and the poorer classes 
who have no cisterns are obliged to 
content themselves with this. On the 
first arrival of these barges the deck is 
(m a level with the surface of the canal; 
but a pump is inserted in the middle of 
it, and, as the cargo is disposed of to 
custom ors, the vessel gradually rises, 
until, when empty, it floats on the top, 
and is carried back for a fresh supply. 
All the water in the neighbourhood 
bring either brackish or putrid, good 
water becomes an article of considerable 
commerce, and this precious commo- 



dity is sold at a large prioe, especially 
in winter, when it sometimes becomes 
necessary in severe weather to cut a 
passage for the water-barges through 
the ice which covers the canals, at a 
heavy expense. A water company, how- 
ever, has recently been established, who 
will conduct this necessary of life into 
the town in pipes along the line of the 
Utrecht railway. 

A portion of the poorer inhabitants 
live entirely in the cellars of the houses. 
There is also a class who live constantly 
upon the canals, making their vessels 
their home. " In this and in many 
other respects the Dutch bear a strong 
resemblance to the Chinese : like that 
industrious and economical race, they 
keep their hogs, their ducks, and other 
domestic animals constantly on board. 
Their cabins display the same neatness 
as the parlours of their countrymen on 
shore ; the women employ themselves in 
all the domestic offices, and are assi- 
duous in embellishing their little sitting- 
rooms with the labours of the needle ; 
and many of them have little gardens 
of tulips, hyacinths, anemones, and 
various other flowers. Some of these 
vessels are of great length, but generally 
naiTow, suitable to the canals and sluices 
of the towns." — Family Tour. 

"This mode of living is a good 
example of Dutch industry and thrift. 
A man marries — he and his wife possess 
or purchase a small boat that will carry 
1 to 3 tons. They live and cook on 
board, move about, carry articles to and 
from markets ; and their first, if not 
second child is born, or at least nursed, 
in this puny vessel. The wife nurses 
the children, mends, and often makes, 
all the family clothes, cooks, and assists 
in navigating the craft, especially in 
steering ; whon you may, at the same 
time, observe the husband with a rope 
over his shoulder dragging the boat 
along a canal or river when the wind is 
adverse. In process of time they buy a 
larger vessel, probably of 6 or 7 tons, 
and, if the smaller one be not unfit for 
uso, sell it to a young beginning couple. 
In the second vessel their family grows, 
until they arc probably strong enough 
to manage together, with perhaps an 
additional hand or two, one of those 



Holland. 



EOUTE 2. — AMSTERDAM. — FISHERY- 



57 



large vessels, carrying from 200 to 400 
tons, called Ehine boats: on board of 
all which the population live in the 
manner before described.'" — Cbmmerc. 
Statisc. 

One of the most interesting spots in 
Amsterdam, from the bustle displayed 
on it, is the Harbour and the Quay, along 
the bank of the IJ. The two enormous 
dykes or dams recently constructed at 
vast expense, nearly parallel with the 
shore, serve the double purpose of pro- 
tecting a part of the town from inunda- 
tions -to which it was previously ex- 
posed, and of gaining from the river a 
considerable space forming capacious 
basins or docks (Oostelijk and' Westelijk 
Dok), capable of holding nearly 1000 
vessels, and closed by large sluice-gates. 
Between the two dams two rows of 
strong piles (bearing the singular name 
of Due d'Alben) extend. Openings are 
left at intervals between them to allow 
ships to enter and depart; these are 
closed at night by booms, so as to sepa- 
rate the harbour from the H. At the 
extremity of the western dam, near the 
fish-market, formerly stood the Herring 
Packery Tower. It received its name 
from a row of small houses occupied by 
rope-sellers, dealers in marine stores, 
&c, in front of which, during the 
season of the herring fishery, all the 
business connected with the examining, 
sorting the fish, and repacking them for 
foreign markets, is transacted in the 
presence of officers appointed by the 
authorities. Every proceeding with 
respect to the herring fishery is regu- 
lated by a committee of managers, or 
shareholders, called commissioners of 
the Great Fishery (by which is meant 
the herring fishery), approved of by the 
government, and under the inspection 
of officers appointed by them. These 
regulations are exceedingly minute and 
precise. " The period when the fishery 
might begin is fixed at 5 min. past 
12 o'clock on the night of the 24th 
June ; and the master and pilot of every 
vessel leaving Holland for the fishery 
are obliged to make oath that they will 
respect them. The species of salt to be 
used in curing the different sorts of her- 
rings is also fixed by law ; and there are 
endless rules with respec-t to the size of 



the barrels, the number and thickness 
of the staves of which they were to be 
made, the guttings and packing of the 
herring, the branding of the barrel. 
These regulations are intended to secure 
to the Hollanders that superiority which 
they had early attained in the fishery, 
to obtain for the Dutch herrings the 
best price in foreign markets, and to 
prevent the herrings being injured by 
the bad faith of individuals."— M'Gul- 
loch's Dictionary of Commerce. 

The fishery, however, is sadly fallen 
off at present; scarcely 200 herring 
vessels are sent out from the whole of 
Holland, instead of 2000, the number 
employed in former days. Still the 
arrival of the herrings is looked for 
with eager anticipation at Amsterdam :■ 
a premium is given to the first buss 
which lands a cargo ; small kegs are 
then sold at a high price ;■ and a single 
herring often fetches as much as 5s. 
The art of curing herrings was invented 
by one William Beukels, of Bicrvliet, 
a Fleming ; but it is not the fact that 
the Dutch and English derive from his 
name the word pickle ; which is no- 
thing more than the Dutch pekel 
(brine). In veneration for one who 
had conferred so great a benefit on his 
country, the Emperor Charles T. made 
a pilgrim-age to his tomb. 

Close to the Haringpakkerij is a 
bridge stretching across the harbour to 
the tavern called Nieuvce-Stads-Herberg, 
which is the starting - place of the 
steamers to Saardam, and of the ferry- 
boat to Buiksloot. (Rte.. 3.) Further 
on, by the side of the harbour, stands the 
Schreijershoeketoren (Weeper's - Corner 
Tower), so called because, being si- 
tuated near the quay from which vessels 
used to set sail, it was a constant scene 
of lamentation and tears, which were 
shed by friends, wives, and children, at 
the departure of their husbands, fathers, 
or other relatives and connections. 

The humble dwelling of the heroic De 
Ruiter still exists on the Quay of the IJ. 

Near the Eastern Dock (Oostelijk 
Dok) stands the house of the Zeemans- 
hoop (Seamen's Club), an association 
of 300 members, chiefly ship captains, 
with which a charitable foundation for 
the benefit of their widows and orphana 

D 3 



58 



ROUTE 2. AMSTERDAM. DOCKYARD. MANUFACTURES. Sect. I. 



is connected. Many of the first people 
of Amsterdam are enrolled as members. 

In the same quarter is the Naval 
Academy (Kweek-school voor de Zee- 
vaart), in which the sons of sailors are- 
provided by the government with an 
education fitting them for the naval 
profession. In the yard attached to the 
building is a frigate fully rigged, to 
make the pupils acquainted with the 
details of a ship's equipment. Their 
dormitory also is fitted up like the be- 
tween-decks of a man-of-war ; every 
boy sleeps in his hammock, suspended 
from the roof, above his locker or chest 
in which his clothes, &c, are kept. 

Further E., beyond the quay of the 
IT-gracht, a long bridge leads to the 
island of Kattenburg, on which is 
situated the National Dockyard (Lands, 
or Rijkswerf — observe, they are not 
called Royal Docks) . It is now sepa- 
rated from the H by the eastern dam. 
It is the largest naval dep6t and arsenal 
in Holland; there are usually several 
vessels of war on the stocks. Admis- 
sion may be obtained by showing a 
written order from the British or Ame- 
rican consul to view it — its slips, rope- 
walks, model-room, in which are pre- 
served specimens of the worm-eaten 
piles alluded to in p. 39 ; but an 
Englishman will find that it is not to 
be compared with the dockyards of his 
own country. 

In the latter part of the 13th cent. 
Amsterdam was still a cluster of fisher- 
men's huts, in a salt marsh. Its great 
advance in wealth and importance 
took place in the 16th cent., after the 
siege of Antwerp, when the persecu- 
tions of the Spaniards in the Flemish 
provinces drove so many valuable sub- 
jects, active merchants, and clever manu- 
facturers, to seek for safety and the free 
exercise of the Protestant faith in Hol- 
land and England, 

In the reign of Queen Elizabeth the 
Earl of Leicester attempted to gain 
possession of it by treachery, but failed. 

It is supposed that Fenelon had Am- 
sterdam in view while describing Tyre 
in his Telemaque. Its prosperity for 
a long time depended on its shipping, 
which engrossed the carrying trade of 
the whole world, and likewise had the 



effect of rearing a bold race of sailors, 
ready to fight the battles of their coun- 
try, and to brave storms and tempests, 
in every sea under heaven. At one 
period the trade in butter and cheese 
brought 1,000,000 ducats annually to 
Amsterdam. The Bank of Amsterdam, 
described by Adam Smith, no longer 
exists : another was set up by King 
William I., and the capitalists here 
still continue the bankers of a large 
part of Eiuope. 

The Manufactures of Amsterdam com- 
prehend, besides those of cotton and 
woollen stuffs, which are to be found 
elsewhere, one or two which are almost 
peculiar to the spot ; for example, the 
refineries of borax, a salt which is pro- 
duced from the mud of large lakes in 
Thibet, Persia, Tuscany, and South 
America; of camphor, the coagulated 
sap of a tree, found principally in 
China : it is used extensively in medi- 
cine ; while borax is an ingredient for 
making the solder used by jewellers. 
Smalt manufactories. — Smalt is a blue 
glassy substance produced from cobalt : 
the artificers of Amsterdam alone know 
how to refine it in the best manner, by 
grinding it minutely, and by other 
methods, which are kept secret. They 
produce a great variety of shades in 
the colour, which is chiefly employed 
in painting china. Many other articles 
are manufactured here, by methods 
believed to be known only in Amster- 
dam ; such as cinnabar or vermilion, 
rouge, white lead, and aquafortis ; gold 
lace, and a great variety of scents and 
perfumed oils, are also objects of com- 
merce. The art of cutting diamonds 
was for a long time confined to the 
Jews of Amsterdam and Antwerp. It 
is supposed not to have been known in 
Europe earlier than the 15th cent. 
The diamond mills at Amsterdam are 
numerous, and are exclusively the pro- 
perty of Jews. One of them is thus 
described by Mr. Elliot : — Four horses 
turn a wheel, setting in motion a 
number of smaller wheels in the room 
above, whose cogs, acting on regular 
metal plates, keep them constantly in 
motion. Pulverised diamond is placed 
on these ; and the stone to be polished, 
fastened at the end of a piece of wood, 



Holland, route 2. — Amsterdam, theatres, steamers. 



59 



by means of an amalgam of zinc and 
quicksilver, is submitted to the friction 
of the adamantine particles. This is 
the only mode of acting upon diamond, 
which can be ground and even cut by 
particles of the same substance. In the 
latter operation diamond-dust is fixed 
on metal wire that is moved rapidly 
backwards and forwards over the stone 
to be cut. 

Theatres. — There are 3, which are 
opened alternately every day in the 
week but Sunday ; performances begin 
at 6 or half -past 6.— 1. The Dutch 
Theatre (Stads Schouwburg, near the 
Leiden-gate), devoted to Dutch tragedy 
and comedy. 2. The German and Italian 
Theatre, in the Amstel Straat, for operas 
only. 3. The French Theatre, for French 
vaudevilles, &c. There are also 3 
smaller theatres where vaudevilles are 
represented — 2 Dutch,both called Salon 
des Varie'te's, and 1 French ; the latter 
is on the Singel, near the Munt ; they 
are much frequented, as smoking is 
allowed. Entrance 15 stivers. Con- 
certs are given at Frascati's, in the 
Nes. 

Cafes. — The most frequented is De 
Grand Cafe* Restaurant, on the first 
floor at the corner of the Kalver Straat 
and the Dam, where the chief news- 
papers, including The Times, are taken 
in. Cafe' Francais in the Kalver Straat. 

The finest shops are in the Kalver 
Straat, which is also the most frequented 
thoroughfare — in the Nieuwedijk — both 
leading out of the square in which the 
palace is situated — and in the "Warmoes 
Straat. 

Excellent curacoa is made at Am- 
sterdam at two-thirds of the English 
price ; it may be purchased very good 
at Wynand Focking's, in de Pijl Steeg, 
near the Exchange. Anisette is another 
good liqueur manufactured here : the 
best may be got of Bols, in het Loosje. 

Physician, Dr. Davids, 7, Hceren 
Gracht, understands the English lan- 
guage and Pharmacopeia. 

The Flower-market, held on the Voor 
Burgwal, a little to the S. of the back 
of the palace, on Monday, is worth 
a visit. 

The annual Kermis or Fair (§ 15) 
takes place at the beginning of Sep- 



tember, and, while it lasts, attracts 
hither multitudes from the northern 
provices. It may be styled the Dutch 
Carnival. At the neat village of Muider- 
berg there is a remarkable echo on the 
property of Mr. E. J. Koch. 

Railroads (Hollandsche Spoorwcg) — 
to Haarlem, Leiden, and Hague — ter- 
minus outside the Willems or Haarlem 
gate : Rijn Spoorweg, to Utrecht and 
Amhem — terminus outside the Wecspcr 
gate. (Rte. 5.) 

Steamers to Hamburg, the 5th, 10th, 
15th, 20th, 25th, and 30th of every 
month from April to November, set- 
ting off very early in the morning ; so 
that it is necessary to go on board be- 
fore 12 at night. A place in the first 
cabin cost 44 guilders, rather dear ; in 
the after cabin 35^ ; 4-wheeled carnages 
70 grs. When two or more passengers 
take places together, they pay 10 florins 
less. 

Steamboats to Saardam and Alkmaar. 
(Rte. 3.) To Harlingen and Enkhuizcn 
3 times a week. To Kampcn daily in 
summer at 6 a.m. Diligences leave 
Kampen on the arrival of the steamer 
for Groningen, by Zwolle, Meppel, and 
Assen. Arrival at Groningen 11 p.m. 
Also to Enschede, Oldenzaal, Lingen, 
and Bremen; to Koevorden and De- 
venter, and all the intervening places in 
Overijssel and Drenthe. Places may 
be secured in Amsterdam. To Arnhem 
and Cologne by the Zuider Zee and 
IJssel (Rte. 12) 3 times a week — too 
tedious a conveyance for a pleasure 
tour. 

A steam ferry - boat is constantly 
plying to Buiksloot and the mouth of 
the Texel canal. Rte. 3. 

The Post Office is on the Voor Burg- 
wal, behind the palace. 

The Passport Office is on the Dam, 
opposite to the Exchange, 

ROUTE 3. 

AMSTERDAM TO BROEK, AND THE GREAT 
NORTH HOLLAND SHIP CANAL. AM- 
STERDAM TO SAARDAM. 

Broek. — A steam ferry-boat plies 
every hour from the tavern called 
Nieuwe Stads-IIerborg, rising on piles 
in the midst of the 1J, to the S. point of 



60 



ROUTE 3 — BUIKSLOOT. SHIP CANAL. 



Sect. I. 



the opposite shore of Waterland, 1| m, 
from Buiksloot. Trekschuits ply from 
the same house to Broek 4 times 
arday. 

The harbour of Amsterdam is fenced 
in with 2 long lines of piles driven 
into the mud, having open spaces at 
intervals to allow vessels to enter and 
depart. These openings are closed at 
night with booms, or large trees co- 
vered with iron spikes, which are drawn 
across and fastened with chains. Not 
many years ago it was discovered that 
some molluscous animal had committed 
such extensive ravages in the wood- 
work, that, though the piles were of the 
finest heart of oak, they were in a short 
time reduced to a state resembling 
honeycomb, so as to require constant 
renewal. (See p. 39.) 

In traversing the harbour long rows 
of little pavilions, raised upon wooden 
piers, are remarked, stretching far out 
from shore, several feet above the water. 
These are summer-houses belonging to 
the citizens, the owners of pleasure^ 
boats, who delight to come hither and 
smoke their pipes and sip their wine, 
beer, or coffee. From the landing-place 
Amsterdam is seen to great advantage, 
stretching along the opposite shore of 
the IJ, It is by far the best view of 
the city, and is a picture of wealth and 
industry, bearing witness to the extent 
of the trade which is still carried on 
with almost all parts of the globe, 

The IJ is frozen over in severe win- 
ters. In the winter of 1794 r 5 the Dutch 
fleet lying in the IJ, opposite Amster- 
dam, was captured by a French corps 
of cavalry and flying artillery ! The 
vessels were frozen up in the ice at the 
time, and the detachment from the in- 
vading army crossed the ice to attack 
them. 

Buiksloot is a large village at the 
Waterland dyke, abounding in spacious 
inns, with numerous apartments for the 
reception of guests from Amsterdam. 
Inns : De Boer's and Geritzen's. 
Carriages may be hired here to go to 
Broek (4 m.) and return for 4 grs. ; 
to Saardam for 4 grs. ; Monnikendam 
4J grs. ; Edam 5 grs. The longer tour 
by Broek, Monnikendam, Edam, Pur- 
^aerende (where is the only tolerable 



inn on the route at which travellers may 
dine), to Saardam, costs 15 grs., and 
will occupy a whole day. 

No one should omit to view the 
Grand Ship Canal of North Holland, 
which commences here directly oppo- 
site Amsterdam, and extends to Helder 
and the Texel, a distance of 51 m. It is 
one of the greatest rmdertakings of the 
kind ever executed. At the surface it 
is 124 ft. wide, at the bottom 31 ft., a 
breadth sufficient to admit two frigates 
to pass, and probably greater than that 
of any other canal in the world ; and it 
is 21 ft. deep. It has locks only at 
each end. The lockrgates exceed in 
dimensions the largest in the docks of 
Liverpool ; they are founded upon piles 
driven through the mud into sand. 
The level of the canal at Buiksloot is 
10 ft. below the mean height of the sea, 
and of course many feet below high 
tides. As a work of utility this canal 
deserves the highest praise, since it 
enables vessels to enter and quit the 
port of Amsterdam with safety, and 
without any delay, in defiance of con- 
trary winds, and unimpeded either by 
the storms or the thousand sandbanks 
of the dangerous Zuider Zee : at the 
same time avoiding the trouble and 
risk of passing the bar at the mouth of 
the IJ, called the Pampus, over which 
lay the only outlet to the sea before 
this canal was made. Large vessels 
were formerly obliged to discharge their 
cargoes on the outside of the harbour of 
Amsterdam, and were then lifted out of 
the water and floated over the bar by 
means of a machine called a camel, a 
species of double chest of wood, the 2 
halves of which are shaped to fit the 
hull of a ship. Being filled with water 
and sunk, they are attached to the side 
of the vessel to be lifted. The water is 
then pumped out of them, and of course, 
as they become buoyant, they raise the 
ship with them. The time employed 
in tracking the fly-boats from Amster- 
dam to the Helder, by the canal, is 10 
hrs. 5 moderate sized vessels in about 
18 hrs. ; and large East Indiamen are 
tracked in 2, 3, or 4 days, according to 
the wind. Such vessels were not un- 
frequently detained as many weeks by 
tempestuous weather and other ob- 



Holland. 



ROUTE 3. — BROEK. 



61 



staclos before they could make this 
short voyage l>y sea. 

The difficulties which opposed the 
formation of this canal, through ground 
consisting of low swamp and loose sand, 
increase our admiration of the skill and 
perseverance by which it was planned 
and executed. The original sea-shore, 
which is the only firm ground in New 
Holland, was found by boring to be 
43 ft. under the present surface, and 
the foundations of the locks were laid 
at that depth. One principal difficulty 
which occurs is the preventing the 
loose and silty soil which forms the 
banks of the canal from sliding down 
into the bottom and filling up the 
channel. Blanken was the engineer; 
it was begun 1819 and finished in 1825, 
at a cost of nearly 1^ million sterling. 
The only disadvantage to which it is 
liable is that of being choked up by 
ice in winter. Some years ago 35,000 
guilders, about 3000/., were expended 
in cutting a passage through the ice for 
several outward-bound vessels. 

The road to Brock is dull ; it runs 
through a flat country of meadows by 
the side of the N. II. Canal, as far as 
half way, and at the 2nd bridge quits 
this and follows the Broek Canal, along 
which men and women, harnessed like 
horses to the towing rope, may be seen 
submitting to the drudgery of tracking 
barges laden with fruit and vegetables 
for the Amsterdam market. The habi- 
tations passed on the way are mostly 
cottages of one story, surmounted by 
roofs nearly twice as high as the walls ; 
these serve as storerooms for the winter 
stock of hay. 

Broek [pronounced Brook], cele- 
brated as the oleanest village in the 
world, is a place of considerable extent, 
built on the border of a large pond or 
lake. Many of its 800 inhab. are 
merchants, landed proprietors, under- 
writers, stockbrokers, or tradesmen 
who have amassed fortunes and retired 
from business. Some of them are taken 
up with the manufacture of those little 
round cheeses known all over the world 
as Dutch cheeses, an article of great 
traffic, and source of considerable wealth 
to the province of North Holland. 
" There is neither horse nor cart road 



through the place, so we were obliged 
to leave our carriage at a small inn on 
its outskirts, and to walk through it. 
A notice on a board warns strangers that 
they are not to smoke in the village 
without a stopper on their pipe, nor to 
ride through it, but must dismount and 
lead their horse at a foot pace ! The 
narrow lanes or passages which inter- 
sect it are paved with bricks or little 
stones set in patterns. Broek has been 
the subject of many exaggerated de- 
scriptions ; this, for instance, is dignified 
in the Guide-books by the name of 
mosaic. The paths are strewed with 
sand or shells, also arranged in patterns, 
so precise is the neatness which here 
prevails. The houses are mostly of 
wood, very scrupulously painted white 
and green ; indeed it has been said that 
some people here keep a painter in their 
house all the year round, that the 
building may always preserve the same 
freshness of aspect within and without ; 
but this is another exaggeration. Al- 
most all the houses glitter in the sun, 
with roofs of polished tiles of different 
colours : the habitations of the poorer 
classes are usually only of one story ; 
those of the rich arc for the most part 
of the style which has been appro- 
priately called " the florid Cockney," 
something between Grecian, Chinese, 
and Saracenic : one has a pasteboard- 
looking front, intended to represent a 
temple ; another is painted with such 
various colours as to call to mind the 
scenery of a theatre ; all vie with one 
another in extravagance and absurdity. 
Many of them are planted at the edge 
of canals and are approached by bridges 
formed of planks. Yet Broek has an 
inanimate and listless appearance, owing 
to the custom of keeping the front door 
and windows always closed, save for 
the entrance of the bridal pair after 
marriage, and for the exit of a corpse 
for burial. No one should visit Brock 
without entering one of the houses, as 
the interior is far more curious than the 
outside. The greater part of them are 
private dwellings, and of course strangers 
arc not admitted without an introduc- 
tion to their owners. Not being pro- 
vided with such recommendation, we 
\ were content to repair to one of the 



62 



ROUTE 3. — BROEK. PURMERENDE. 



Sect. I. 



numerous dairy farms where cheese is 
made, and where a small present pro- 
cured us admission. It was amusing 
to observe the anxiety with which one 
of the children of the house laid down a 
wet cloth before us at the door, in order 
that we might clean our feet upon it, 
and thus introduce no pollution into 
their dwelling. Before almost every 
house in the place we had remarked a 
large collection of shoes and sabots, for 
the inmates usually put them off at the 
door, like the Turks, and walk through 
the house in slippers or stockings ; and 
even the Emperor Alexander, it is said, 
on visiting Broek, was compelled to 
comply with this usage." 

" On entering the house we found a 
stable for the cows in winter running 
round three sides of it, the centre and 
remaining side being set apart for 
human beings. The cows were all ab- 
sent from home in their summer quar- 
ters — the fields. I am sure that 3 S of 
the poor people of England, and a much 
larger proportion of the Irish, are not so 
well and cleanly lodged as the brutes in 
this country. The pavement was of 
Dutch tiles, the walls of deal boards, 
not painted or rough sawn, but as 
smooth and as clean as a dining-table 
in an English farm-house. From one 
end of the stable to the other runs a 
gutter, and above it, over each stall, a 
hook is fastened in the ceiling. "When 
the cattle are within doors their tails, 
from motives of cleanliness,, that they 
may not dangle in the dirt and besmear 
their comely sides, are tied up to these 
hooks in the ceiling ! '" 

Here may be seen the cheeses* in 
various stages of preparation, some in 
the press, others soaking in water and 
imbibing salt, and every part of the 
process distinguished by the most re- 
fined purity. A vast quantity of these 
sweet-milk cheeses (zoetemelk kaas), or 
Edam cheeses as they are here styled, are 
made in "North Holland. They are sold 
at the markets at Alkmaar, Hoorn, &c, 
and are exported thence to the most 
distant countries of the globe. 

The closed door in every house, men- 
tioned above, leads to an apartment 
which is rarely entered or opened, save 
by the housewife herself, who once 



a- week unfastens the shutters, takes 
down all the china, dusts it, and scrubs 
the furniture ; and after scouring the 
walls and floor, and polishing the stoves, 
closes up the door and shutters again, 
till the revolving week brings round 
another day of purification. We were 
admitted even into this sanctum, and 
duly appreciated the tidiness of the 
whole ; the exact marshalling of the 
china cups and teapots, under whose 
weight every shelf and ledge seemed to 
groan, and the picturesqueness of the 
old-fashioned furniture. 

The garden attacked to the mansion 
of Mr. Van der Beck is the show place 
at Broek, only because it surpasses in 
its absurdities all the others. In the 
miscellaneous nature of its contents it 
beats the famous garden described in 
the " Groves of Blarney " all to nothing. 
Such an accunrulation of pavilions, ar- 
bours, summer-houses, pagodas, bridges, 
and temples, Gothic, Grecian, Chinese, 
and rustic, are nowhere else to be seen, 
except perhaps at the Pfauen Insel, 
Potsdam. To mention a few. In one 
spot a Swiss cottage is tenanted by two 
wooden puppets as large as life, one of 
which smokes a pipe, the other, a 
female, spins, and even sings, while a 
wooden dog barks at the entrance of 
strangers, all by the aid of clockwork. 
In one corner of this toyshop garden is 
a wooden garde de chasse, with a sham 
musket, in the attitude of one about to 
shoot ; in the pond a pasteboard swan, 
duck, and a mermaid. 

With all its absurdity and extrava- 
gance Broek deserves to be seen as a 
curiosity ; but it must not be regarded 
as a characteristic specimen of Holland ; 
as the village is, in fact, unlike any 
other, and exhibits a caricature of Dutch 
manners and cleanliness, as well as of 
Dutch taste. 

An English traveller, fond of agri- 
cultural pursuits, would find much gra- 
tification in a visit to the neighbouring 
small town of Purmerende. Near it he 
will see the great drained lake called 
Beemster ; here he will find the richest 
meadows, the finest cattle, the neatest 
farm-houses, and the most perfect dairies 
and cow-stables. Here he may taste in 
spring and summer the finest butter and 



Holland. 



ROUTE 3. — SAAllDAM. PETER THE GREAT. 



63 



richest cream in the world. He may 
also learn many useful particulars re- 
specting' the Dutch system of grazing 
and breeding cattle. If he has a taste 
for hydraulics he might here draw a 
comparison between the wind draining- 
nulls by means of the screw of Archi- 
medes, and the method of draining, mis- 
called Dutch, still pursued in the fens 
of Lincoln and Cambridgeshire. This 
district, which is more particularly de- 
scribed in Route 4, would afford a more 
correct idea of Holland, and the man- 
ners of the Dutch, than a mere visit to 
Broek. 

To proceed from Broek to Saardam 
the road must be retraced nearly to 
Bruiksloot ; thence to Saardam it runs 
along the back of a huge sea dyke, 
which follows the indentations of the 
shore, and keeps out the sea from a dis- 
trict so intersected in every direction 
by canals, that the extent of water 
nearly equals that of dry land. 

Saardam. — Steamers ply twice a-day 
in winter, and six times a-day in sum- 
mer, between Amsterdam (Stadsher- 
berg) and Saardam across the 1J in 1 
hr. ; fare 13 stivers. 

Saardam (properly Zaandam). — Inns: 
the Otter, famed for its fish dinners 
and high charges; it lies close to the 
water, with a fine view of the river 
and shipping ; — Morianshoofd (Moor's 
head). This town stands at the junc- 
tion of the Zaan with the y : it has 
9000 inhab. It consists of a line of 
windmills, amounting to 400 in num- 
ber, some of gigantic size, with the 
houses attached to them extending 
along the banks of the Zaan to the 
neighbouring villages of Zaandijk, Kocg, 
Wormervecr, and Krommenie, and 
forming together a street nearly 5 m. 
long. The windmills are turned to a 
great variety of uses besides that of 
grinding corn. The water is pumped 
up and land drained, timber is sawn, 
paper is made, tobacco chopped into 
snuff, rapeseed crushed for the oil, and 
colours ground for the painter, entirely 
by their agency. The oil-mills are 
well worth the attention of persons ac- 
quainted with the state of similar works 
in England. The oil trade is of great 
importance here. In some of these 



windmills a peculiar kind of sandstone, 
brought from the neighbourhood of 
Bremen, is reduced into dust solely to 
furnish the Dutch housewife with sand 
for her floor. Still more important are 
those mills in which the volcanic tuff, 
brought from the borders of the Rhine 
near Andernach, is ground to powder, 
to supply, when mixed with lime and 
sand, that valuable cement called tcr- 
rass, used in constructing locks, sluices, 
and dykes, which has the property of 
hardening under water. 

Saardam is, secondly, remarkable for 
the cottage or hut in which Peter the 
Great lived in 1696, while working as 
a common shipwright in the shipyards 
of Mijnheer Calf, a rich merchant, in 
order to enable himself to instruct his 
subjects in the art of building ships. 
He went by the name of Peter Baas, 
or Master Peter, among his fellow- 
labourers ; wore a common carpenter's 
dress, and was seen in that costume 
hard at work by the great Duke of 
Marlborough. 

The building is of rough planks, and 
leans much on one side, from the founda- 
tion having given way. It was bought 
by the late Queen of Holland, sister of 
the Emperor Alexander, who, in order 
to protect so venerable a relic from the 
destroying effects of the weather, caused 
a case to be built over it, which can be 
closed with shutters. It consists of two 
small rooms : in one of them is Peter's 
bed, which is nothing better than a cup- 
board, closed in front with doors : above 
is a loft, which can only be entered by 
a ladder. The walls of the two rooms, 
are so covered with names from all 
countries of the world, in pen, pencil, 
ink, or cut with a knife, that it is hardly 
possible to lay your finger upon a 
vacant inch. Among the rest is that of 
the Emperor Alexander, who caused a 
marble tablet to be placed over the 
chimney-piece with an inscription to 
this effect : — 
" Nothing is too small for a great man." 

The period of Peter's stay at Saar- 
dam was much more limited than is 
generally supposed. He suffered so 
much inconvenience from the concourse 
of idle gazers who assembled to look 



64 



ROUTE 4. — HAARLEM TO THE HELDER. 



Sect. I. 



at him, that he preferred retiring to 
Amsterdam, where he could work in* 
comparative privacy within the walls 
of the dockyard of the East India Com- 
pany. Large ships are no longer built 
at Saardam. 

Two hrs. are amply sufficient to see 
all that is remarkable in Saardam, and 
at the- expiration of that time the 
steamer will have returned, which will 
take the traveller back to Amsterdam, 
enabling him to make the excursion in 
4 or 5 hrs. 

ROUTE 4, 

HAARLEM TO THE HELDER,. BY ALK- 
MAAR AND. HET NIEUWE DIEP, AND 
BACK TO AMSTERDAM. 

9^ posts = 46 Eng. m. 

Steamers twice a day from Amster- 
dam to Alkmaar, by "Wormerveer, in 
3 hrs. The Trekschudt, a commo- 
dious barge, with 3 cabins, starts eveiy 
morning, except Sunday, from Willem- 
sluis near Buiksloot, along the Great 
North Holland Canal, and reaches the 
Helder in 12 hrs. (fare, 4 grs. 4 st.). 
" In proceeding from Haarlem, the tra- 
veller may embark on the canal at Alk- 
maar. This is an easy and expeditious 
route, and affords an opportunity to see 
the canal and its sluices." (See Route 3-.) 
There is a daily coach from Haarlem to 
Alkmaar. But the best way probably 
of going to Alkmaar is to take the 
steamer from Amsterdam to Saardam, 
from which latter place a corresponding 
steamer runs- to Alkmaar. The steamer 
arrives at Alkmaar about an hour before 
the barge starts from Alkmaar to the 
Helder. 

North Holland, lying as it does out 
of the great route between Amsterdam 
and Rotterdam, has hitherto been rarely 
visited by travellers. The inhabitants, 
living removed from intercourse with 
strangers, retain more of the old cus- 
toms, habits, and dress of their fore- 
fathers than is found in South Holland. 
This province is besides physically in- 
teresting, from its position and the 
nature of the soil. It is a peninsula, 
projecting into the sea ; the borders of 
it contiguous to the ocean consist of 
sand; the rest is clay and bog: its 



length is about 20 leagues, and its 
greatest breadth 5 or 6. The land lies, 
almost everywhere, below the level of 
the ocean, and is protected from its in- 
roads, from Kijkduin along the coast of 
the Zuider Zee to Zaandam and Bever- 
wijk, by large dykes, which, in the 
neighbourhood of the Helder, surpass 
in size and strength all others that are 
to be met with in Holland, except those 
of West Kappel, in Zealand; so stu- 
pendous are they that on their account 
alone this corner of Europe deserves to 
be explored. It is intersected in its 
entire length by the Great North Hol- 
land Canal (see p. &0), through which 
almost the whole commerce' of Amster- 
dam now passes. A short distance off 
its shore were fought some very me- 
morable engagements between the Dutch 
and English, especially that of Camper- 
down, gained by Lord Duncan. The 
fortress of the Helder, rising out of sand 
and waves, and the roads of the Texel, 
lie at the termination of it. The cattle 
fed upon this tongue of land are famed 
for their beauty, and the abundance and 
richness of the milk and cheese which 
they yield ; the sheep for the fineness 
of their fleeces and the excellence of 
their mutton. Those who take an in- 
terest in hydraulics will find many ob- 
jects worthy of their attention ; and 
the works along the Nieuwe Diep will 
not be passed unnoticed by those who 
can appreciate the objects in view, and 
the means by which they have been 
attained. Last of all, we must espe- 
cially observe that the females of North 
Holland are particularly distinguished 
by their beauty, by the remarkable 
clearness of their complexions, and by 
the neatness and givrcefulness of their 
costume, which is almost peculiar to the 
district. The back of the head is encir- 
cled by a broad fillet of pure gold, 
shaped like a horse-shoe, which confines 
the hair, and terminates on each side of 
the temple in 2 large rosettes, also of 
pine gold, suspended somewhat like 
blinkers before the eyes of a horse ; over 
this is worn a cap or A^eil of the finest 
and richest lace, with lappets hanging 
down the neck ; and a pair of enor- 
mous gold ear-rings. These ornaments 
are often of real gold, even among the 



Holland. 



ROUTE 4. — NORTH HOLLAND. ALKMAAR. 



65 



lower classes, and the cost of them is 
considerable. Great sacrifices are made 
to purchase them, and they are con- 
sidered heir-looms in a family. 

At the Inns in North Holland it is 
customary, and even necessary, to pre- 
vent extortion, to make a bargain with 
the innkeeper respecting the charge for 
dinner and other meals, which should 
bo ordered at so much a-head. This 
district, indeed, is perhaps the most 
expensive on the continent for living. 

Charges — beds, 1 guilder, 10 stivers ; 
tea, with eggs, 14 stivers ; breakfast, 
with eggs, cheese, and sausages, 16 
stivers. 

The immediate neighbourhood of 
Haarlem is pleasing. Not far from the 
road, and backed by trees, stood the 
Castle of Brederode, now a picturesque 
ruin (p. 45) ; beyond this come the 
Dunes, from whose ridges a view ex- 
tends on the right over the Wijker 
nicer, covered with shipping, even to 
the windmills of Saardam, which may 
be discerned on a clear day. Near 
Yelzen botanists may view a splendid 
collection of exotic plants at the villa 
of Mr. Van der' Hoop. Admittance is 
gained by applying to the gardener. 
After passing Velzen we arrive at 

Beverwijk {hm, Heerenlogement), 
a considerable town, a pattern of Dutch 
purity and neatness, in its clean streets, 
villa-like houses with fresh painted 
jalousies and window-sills, and its rows 
of trees clipped like hedges. At Prin- 
zens Bosch, or Kruidbcrg, near Bever- 
wijk, a country seat of William III., 
the expedition to England, which led to 
the dethronement of James II. and the 
Revolution of 1688, was planned and 
decided on. At Beverwijk the road 
Leaves the shore of the Wijker meer. 
The country beyond is almost entirely 
devoted to pasture, and is covered over 
with beautiful herds of cattle, which 
here compose the wealth of the district. 
Except a few willows, trees have almost 
entirely disappeared ; the country is one 
vast meadow. 

In 1799 an English expedition, which 
landed at the Holder, penetrated as far 
as the village called Castricum, where 
they wore repulsed by the French under 
General Brune. Farther on, to the 1., 



stand the ruins of Egmont, from which 
the noble family, so distinguished in 
the annals of Holland, derived its origin 
and name. It was destroyed by the 
Spaniards. A very small portion of the 
castle and abbey remains. Many Counts 
of Holland were buried in the latter. 
The philosopher Descartes resided here 
for some time. 

3 f Alkmaar. — Inns : Roode Leeuw 
(Red Lion) ; charges moderate and ac- 
commodation good. Hotel de Toelast ; 
the landlord is the proprietor of the 
diligence between Alkmaar and Haar- 
lem. Heerenlogement. Alkmaar de- 
rives its name from the number of mo- 
rasses and ponds, now dried up, which 
surrounded it in ancient times ; it has 
9000 inhab., and is another example of 
Dutch neatness and good order, in its 
streets and houses, that to a traveller is 
very striking. The Hotel de Ville is a 
highly ornamented edifice, with Gothic 
tracery ; it is said to resemble on a 
smaU scale that of Brussels. The Church 
of St. Lawrence is a handsome building 
of the 15th cent. Here may be 
seen the tomb containing the heart of 
Count Floris V. of Holland. It has 
been lately well and carefully restored. 

The town stands upon the Great 
Canal of the Texel ; it carries on the 
most considerable commerce in cheese 
of any place in the world. A weekly 
market is held here for the sale of it, to 
which the fanners and country people 
for many miles round resort, and dis- 
pose of the produce of their dairies to 
merchants, who export it to the ex- 
tremities of the earth. 9,000,000 lbs. 
of cheese are weighed annually in the 
town scales. Alkmaar has many nice 
walks around it, especially the Wood, 
similar to those of the Hague and 
Haarlem. 

Alkmaar endured, in 1573, a siege 
from the Spaniards, nearly equal in 
the severity with which it was urged 
on by the besiegers, and hardly inferior 
in the glorious example of bold resist- 
ance offered by the citizens, to those of 
Haarlem and Leiden. It was the first 
enterprise in which the Spaniards tailed ; 
it allowed the rest of Holland to draw 
breath and gain confidence. The de- 
fence was the more noble, since the re- 



66 



ROUTE 4. ZAND. NIEUWE DIEP. THE HELDER. Sect. I. 



solution of adhering to the side of the 
Prince of Orange was not adopted hy 
the men of Alkmaar until the enemy 
was at their gates. 

A very indifferent road leads from 
Alkmaar to Hoorn, a 3 hrs'. drive. 

From Alkmaar to the Helder is a 
drive of 3^ hrs. ; " the charge for a 
carriage with 2 horses thither, including 
harriers, driver, &c, comes to 27 
guilders, i. e. 10 less than posting." 
— IT. M. 

North of Alkmaar, upon the sea- 
shore, between Kamp and Petten, is a 
place called Hondsbosche, the worst 
defended and most dangerous spot along 
the whole Dutch coast, where the sea is 
constantly gaining upon the land. As 
there are no dunes here, the ocean is 
only kept out hy artificial means, hy 
building breakwaters, and throwing up 
jetties at right angles with the beach, 
which require unremitting care and 
attention. It is probable that one of 
the ancient mouths of the fihine en- 
tered the sea at this point, previous to 
the formation of the Zuider Zee. (§ 9.) 

Among the villages seen on the way 
to Sand is Camperdown y off which was 
fought Admiral Duncan's action, in 
which he gained a complete victory 
over the Dutch in 1797. 

The dunes (§ 12) near Camperdown 
are composed of sand so very fine, and 
so extremely pure and white, that it is 
exported in large quantities to England, 
to supply some of our glass manufac- 
turers. 

3J Het Zand. — Inn kept by Hout. 
The name of the place will give the 
best idea of its situation , it lies in a 
dreary waste, all sand, in many places 
so loose as to be moved about by the 
wind. 

The road beyond traverses a com- 
plete desert, very wearisome to the eye, 
covered with scanty heaths intermixed 
with pools of water. The isthmus over 
which the road is carried is not more 
than 2 m. broad, and commands a 
view over the German Ocean on one 
side, and the Zuider Zee on the other. 
Here may be observed in summer large 
numbers of the sea-fowl (Anas tadorna), 
which builds its nest and lays its eggs 
in rabbit-holes. 



2£ Het Nieuwe Diep, or Willem- 
soord. Inns : Burg, close to the canal, 
near the place whence the Amsterdam 
barge sets off; clean and comfortable. 
Heerenlogement ; comfortable and mo- 
derate. Fine view over the harbour. 
Provisions are dearer here than any- 
where else in Holland. Though in the 
midst of the sea, fish are very scarce, 
but Bordeaux wine is cheap and good. 

The port of Nieuwe Diep, the Ports- 
mouth of Holland, about a mile from 
the Helder, has been entirely formed, 
by artificial means, within 80 years. 
It affords protection, by means of piers 
and jetties stretching out from the 
shore, to all vessels entering the great 
canal, even to men-of-war and mer- 
chantmen of large burden. There is a 
steam-engine for emptying the dry 
dock ; and the entrance of the basin is 
closed by a kind of sluice-gate, called 
Fan Sluices, from their shape ; by an 
ingenious contrivance the force of the 
rising tide is directed against them in 
such a manner as to shut them, and 
effectually to exclude itself. The North 
Holland Canal terminates in the sea at 
Nieuwe Diep. A row of small houses 
more than a mile long by the side of a 
canal extends from it to 

f The Helder (Inns : Prinsen's ; 
Heerenlogement), a strongly fortified 
town, with 10,000 inhab., opposite the 
island of the Texel. The view from 
the extremity of the fortifications, look- 
ing towards it and over the Mars Diep, 
or entrance into the Zuider Zee, is fine. 
Down to the end of the last cent, 
the Helder was little more than a fishing 
village. Napoleon converted it into a 
fortress of first rank, capable of con- 
taining 10,000 men in its bomb-proof 
casemates, at an expense of many mil- 
lions of francs. He called it his 
Northern Gibraltar, but left the forti- 
fications in a very unfinished state. Its 
batteries defend the roads of the Mars 
Diep, and the entrance of the harbour 
and grand canal. On the highest point 
of the dimes is Fort Kijkduin, out of 
the midst of which rises the light- 
house. 

The extremity of the tongue of land 
which forms North Holland, being more 
exposed to the fury of tempests and the 



Holland. 



ROUTE 4. — THE HELDER. THE TEXEL. 



67 



encroachments of the ocean than almost 
any other, is defended on all sides by a 
dyke of the very largest dimensions : 
within this rampart lie the town and 
fortress of the Holder. " The great 
dyke of the Helder, which is nearly 2 
leagues in length, is 40 ft. broad at the 
summit, over which there is a very good 
road. It descends into the sea by a 
slope of 200 ft., inclining about 40 
degrees. The highest tides are far from 
covering the top ; the lowest arc equally 
far from showing the base. At certain 
distances enormous groynes of timber 
piles and fascines, covered with stone, 
averaging in length 200 yards, project 
into the sea. This artificial and gi- 
gantic coast is thus composed of blocks 
of granite and limestone, brought from 
Norway or Belgium ; and these masses, 
which look as if it were impossible to 
move them, are levelled and squared 
like a pavement. The number of rocks 
which arc seen at one view are suffi- 
cient to confound the imagination ; how 
much more when we think on the quan- 
tities buried beneath the waves to serve 
as the foundation of such mountains." — 
Journey in N. Holland. 

The Helder is almost the only spot 
on the coast of Holland where there is 
deep water close in shore. The rush, 
or " race," of the tide from the ocean 
into the Zuider Zee, through the nar- 
row strait between Helder (Hels-deur 
— hell's door) and the island of the 
Texel, constantly scours out the pas- 
sage and keeps it deep. The passage 
of the Texel, called De Witt's Diep, 
was first laid open to Dutch commerce 
by the Grand Pensionary de Witt, 
1665, when, after using the most ex- 
traordinary efforts to equip a fleet 
against England, its sailing was pre- 
vented by the assertion of all the Dutch 
pilots and commanders that the wind 
was unfavourable, and the passage out 
to sea impracticable. In the teeth of 
this opinion of practical seamen he 
proceeded in his long boat to this 
channel, took the soundings with his 
own hand, found the depth double that 
which had been set down, and, on his 
own responsibility, weighed anchor in 
the largest ship of the squadron, and 
put to sea through the dreaded gut in 



spite of the wind, himself leading the 
van. 

The British forces sent to Holland, 
under the command of Sir Ralph Aber- 
crombie and the Duke of York, in 1799, 
landed here, and took possession of the 
Helder, but were compelled to rc-cm- 
bark a few weeks afterwards, although 
they were successful at Egmont op 
Zee, and in several other important 
actions against the enemy, having fruit- 
lessly endeavoured to excite the Dutch 
to rise, and throw off the yoke of 
France. 

There is a wild dreariness and dull 
monotony in the aspect of this district 
which would render a residence in it 
hardly endurable. It is a sand-bank, 
which man appears to have usurped 
from the sea-gulls, who have not yet 
abandoned their ancient territory, but 
flock to it in swarms, breaking the 
solitude by their incessant screaming 
cries. It is only when contrasting the 
barrenness of nature, and the threats 
of the sea, with the perseverance and 
successful ingenuity of man, that an 
interest is thrown over the whole scene, 
such as no other spot in Europe can be 
said to possess. 

The island of the Texel is inhabited 
by myriads of sea-birds, and by a primi- 
tive race of shepherds, whose flocks 
produce fleeces of remarkable length 
and fineness, which are highly prized. 
They are of a breed peculiar to the 
island : a sort of green-coloured cheese 
is made here of the ewes' milk. In 1845, 
32,000 lbs. of ewe-milk cheese were 
sold here. 

In returning by land from the Hel- 
der to Amsterdam the old road must 
be retraced as far as het Zand ; there a 
bye-road, in the very worst possible 
condition after rain, diverges to the E. 
through Schagen, a beautiful village, 
situated in a drained lake, called the 
Zijp, the oldest drained land in North 
Holland. Flax of a very tine quality 
is cultivated in the neighbourhood, and 
Schagen is the market where it is sold. 

The country hereabouts, and all the 
way to Amsterdam, is the very opposite 
to that which has been left behind. It 
is clothed with the richest verdure, and 
supports numerous herds of cows and 



68 



ROUTE 4. THE BEEMSTER. MEDEMBLIK. HOORN. Sect. I. 



large flocks of sheep, whose wool is 
famous, and the mutton highly prized : 
it abounds in old trees, and is sprinkled 
over with houses, affording by their 
neatness a sure indication of the owners' 
prosperity. The district is intersected 
in all directions by canals; and it is 
curious sometimes to observe the sails 
of the barges overtopping the roofs of 
the houses, and slowly moving along, 
to all appearances over the fields, as the 
canal itself is concealed from view. 

The road continues upon elevated 
dykes, and, after coasting along the 
Hugowaard Polder, passes through the 
village of Rustemburg, by the side 
of another polder,, the Schermermeer. 
" In going along the Schermermeer 
we arrive at the point where the 3 ; pol- 
ders (§ 11), the Hugowaard, the Scher- 
mermeer, and the famous Beemster, 
meet. In the centre of' this kind of 
triangle is built the pretty town of 
Schermeer Hoorn, the steeples of which, 
shining amidst the trees, command the 
superb basins which surround it. The 
streets extend along the high land in 
the 3 directions which are open to 
them, so as- to give it a most singular 
form. In order to reach it we had tra- 
velled along the course of the dyke 
halfway up. On the left,. 10 or 15 ft. 
above our heads, was the great canal 
common to all these polders, and the 
sails (of boats?) appearing above the 
trees every instant hid the sun from 
us. On the right, at the same distance 
below us, we saw similar canals and 
windmills, the sails of which were 
hardly on a level with us, and in a 
hollow, extending farther than we could 
see, the herds concealed in the tufted 
grass of the polder. It was completely 
the world turned upside down. In 
some countries we are accustomed to 
see the sails of the windmills higher 
than the rudders of the ships, and the 
goats perched above the crags ;; but in 
North Holland we must be contented 
to see everything different from what 
it is elsewhere.'" — Journey in North 
Holland. 

The Beemster is one of the largest, 
most fertile, and best drained lake-beds 
or polders. It took 4 years to drain 
it : the undertaking was commenced in 



1808. The finest mutton in all Hol- 
land is fed upon its pastures. It abounds 
in large trees, the trunks and lower 
branches of which are actually painted 
over with various colours ; whether to 
improve and increase their beauty, or 
with some view to utility in preserving 
them from insects- or moisture, appears 
uncertain. But the practice, strange 
as it may appear, prevails in other parts 
of North Holland. 

After visiting these singular and in- 
teresting polders, the traveller may 
either return to Alkmaar, or may make 
his way by canal or highway to Broek 
and Saardam through 

Med : emblik (Inn, Talk, not good, and 
dear; 2000 inhab.), an old decayed 
town, containing the Royal Naval 
Academy, through which young sailors 
must pass before they can enter the 
Dutch navy as midshipmen. 

About 10 m. E. of Medemblik, on 
the Zuider Zee, is Ehkhuisen, another 
decayed town, which once sent out 
400'' vessels to the deep sea herring- 
fishery every year : at present it does 
not employ 50 ; and its population is 
diminished one-half. Paul Potter was 
bom here. A plan has been drawn out 
for draining the Zuider Zee by throwing 
a dyke across from between Medeniblik 
and Enkhuisen to Stavoren, leaving a 
wide canal for the passage of the tides 
and the exit of the rivers IJssel, Yecht, 
&c, and communicating with the IJ at 
Amsterdam.. The cost is estimated at 
5 millions sterling.. (See Ed. Rev., vol. 
lxxxvi. p. 442.) 

Hoorn. — Inn : the Oude Doelen is 
the only tolerable one ; — in it are some 
remarkable pictures of the old schutterij 
(militia), in the Spanish times, by Rot- 
tiers, a pupil of Tan der Heist. In the 
Stadhuis is shown the sword of the 
Spanish Admiral de Bossu, who was 
taken, after a severe engagement, by 
the Butch, commanded by Admiral 
D'erks. This is the native place of the 
mariner "William Schouten, who, in 
1616, first doubled the southernmost 
cape of America, which he named after 
his birthplace, Cape Hoorn, or Horn. 
Abel Jansz Tasman, who discovered 
Van Diemen's Land and Xew Zealand, 
was also bom here. Hoorn, like many 



Holland. 



ROUTE 5. AMSTERDAM TO UTRECHT. 



69 



other towns of North Holland, is sadly 
fallen off in trade and prosperity. Its 
present trade consists chiefly in its 
exports of butter and cheese, provisions 
and fish. Its manufactures, ship- 
building, and even its herring-fishery, 
are of little value compared with their 
former magnitude. The great fleet of 
Ad. dc Ruiter was built here. From the 
Helder to Hoorn is a journey of 6 hrs. 

From Hoorn to Purmerende in a car- 
riage takes 3 hrs., and thence to Buik- 
sloot (p. 60) 4 hrs. 

Purmerende (Inn, Heerenlogcment, 
the only tolerable inn between the Hel- 
der and Amsterdam^ situated at the S. 
angle of the Bcemster, on the banks of 
the Great Canal, and between the 3 
polders, the Beemster, the Purmer, and 
the Wormer. No one should pass 
through Purmerende or the Bcemster 
without making trial of the produce of 
the dairies — the cream, butter, and 
cheese here arc excellent. The quantity 
of cheese sold in 1845 in Purmerende 
was 1,300,000 Dutch pounds. 

Travellers returning by the canal to 
Amsterdam should leave the barge at 
Purmerende and take coach to Broek, 
and so to Buiksloot. The road from 
Purmerende to Broek by Monnikcndam 
is very curious. 

Monnihendam. — A village of 2000 in- 
hab. From this place travellers may 
proceed to Broek and view that curious 
village ; then to Buiksloot, where they 
may cross by the ferry to Amsterdam, 
or, taking the road along the dykes, 
lengthen their journey to Zaandam ; and, 
after seeing there the cabin of Peter the 
Great, embark in the steamer for Am- 
sterdam, as described in Rte. 3. 

A trip may be made from Monnikcn- 
dam to the island of Markcn, where 
the manners and the mode of living of 
the inhabitants arc far more curious, 
because they preserve their primitive 
simplicity, than in the dull village of 
Broek. 

The country forming the "W. shore 
of the Zuider Zee is so popidous that 
the line of villages, towns, and gardens 
[a almost uninterrupted. The neatness, 
the order, and active industry displayed 
at every step are highly interesting. In 
short, the excursion in North Holland 



is capable of affording much gratification 
to a traveller, 

ROUTE 5, 

AMSTERDAM, BY UTRECHT AND ARNHEM 
(railway), TO NIJMEGEN. 

Amsterdam to Utrecht 28 m. ; to Arn- 
hem 56 m. 

Arnheni to Nijmcgen. 2 posts = 9h 
Eng. m. 

Railway. — Amsterdam to Utrecht. 
Trains 4 times a day, in one hr. To 
Arnhem 3 times a day in less than 3 
hrs. Terminus at Amsterdam outside 
the Weesper gate. 

The immediate neighbourhood of Am- 
sterdam may be said to consist of an 
aggregation of polders, (§ 11.) The 
most remarkable is that called the Dic- 
mer Meer, one of the deepest of those 
drained lakes in all Holland : its bottom 
lies 16 ft. below the level of the sea, 
which is sometimes augmentod to 30 at 
very high tides. 

Abcoude Stat., a pretty village. 

Vreeland Stat. 

The country through which the rail- 
road passes is not very interesting. 

Nieuu-ersluis Stat. Both sides of the old 
road and of the river Vecht, between 
this and Utrecht, are lined with villas, 
summer-houses, and gardens (§ 13), be- 
longing principally to 'merchants of 
Amsterdam. It is almost an uninter- 
rupted garden all the way, and the taste 
of the Dutch for horticulture is here 
seen to perfection. Several very pretty 
villages are passed. 

Breukelen Stat. 

Maarsen Stat. 

On approaching Utrecht there are 
various indications that the traveller is 
about to bid adieu to the flat land : the 
country presents partial undulations, 
and a slight current becomes perceptible 
in the canals. About 3 m. N.W. of 
Utrecht, on the Vecht, is the old castle of 
Zuylen, the residence of Francis Borse- 
len, to whom Jacqueline was married. 

28 m. Utrecht — Station. — Inns; H. 
des Pays-Baa, excellent, one of the best 
inns in Holland ; 'T K a steel van Ant- 
werpen (Castle of Antwerp), on the 
Oude (Iracht, good; BehYvue : many 
diligences start from this house. Utrecht, 
called by the Romans, Trajectum ad 



70 



ROUTE 5. — UTRECHT. STADHUIS. UNIVERSITY. Sect. I. 



Rhenum (ford on the Rhine), and in 
monkish Latin Ultra Trajectum, whence 
comes its modern name, is situated at 
the bifurcation of the branch of the 
Rhine called the Old Rhine, and the 
Vecht. It contains about 50,000 inhab. 
(20,000 R. Catholics). There is a con- 
siderable descent from the houses to the 
surface of the river — a circumstance 
which distinguishes this from other 
Dutch towns already described ; the 
cellars under the quays by the water- 
side are inhabitated, and are large 
enough to serve as storehouses and 
manufactories. Before a great inunda- 
tion, which occurred 839, the main 
stream of the Rhine, which was then 
turned into the Lek, flowed past Utrecht. 

In the Stadhuis, built 1830, are a few 
very old pictures from suppressed con- 
vents, curious rather than beautiful — 
the best are by Schoreel. The Treaty 
of Utrecht (1713), which gave peace to 
Europe by ending the war of the 
Spanish Succession, was signed at the 
residence of the Bishop of Oxford, the 
British Minister, in a house now pulled 
down and replaced by a barrack called 
Willemskasern. Many of the prelimi- 
nary conferences were held in a back 
room of the old Stadhuis, still remain- 
ing. The act of confederation (1579), 
which formed the foundation of the 
freedom of Holland, and which declared 
the Seven United Provinces independent 
of Spain, was signed in the Public Hall 
(auditorium) of the University. An in- 
scription intended for it ran thus : Atrium 
sapiential, incunabula libertatis. 

The tower of the Cathedral, 321 ft. 
high (b. 1382), detached from the main 
building, has a very beautiful top story, 
and deserves to be ascended on account 
of the view from it, extending over al- 
most all Holland, a part of Gueldres 
and North Brabant, and comprehending, 
it is said, 20 large towns ; among them 
Hertogenbosch, Rotterdam, Oudewater, 
Montfort, Amsterdam, the Zuider Zee, 
Amersfort, Rheenen, Breda, Gertruiden- 
burg, Gouda, and the Lek. Midway in 
the steeple is the dwelling of the sexton, 
or koster. The nave of the church was 
thrown down by a storm in 1674, when 
the wind carried off the roof and twisted 
the solid stone pillars like willow wands ; 



and the public street now passes over 
its site. The lofty choir is a fragment 
of a noble Gothic edifice ; but it has suf- 
fered much from fanatic iconoclasts and 
from modern pewing and high wood- 
work, in the conventicle style, which 
hide its beautiful clustered Gothic pil- 
lars, of great height and lightness. They 
have, too, been sadly cut away to admit 
the upper seats, which are arranged like 
those of a lecture theatre. It contains 
a monument to Admiral van Gent, who 
fell in the fight'of Solebay, 1672, by Ver 
Hulst, and also a very large and very 
fine organ. 

The first Bp. of Utrecht was St. 
Willebrod, an Englishman, who left his 
own country, in the 7th cent., to con- 
vert the heathen Frisons, who then pos- 
sessed the land. He baptized many 
thousands of them; and the Pope or- 
dained him bishop over them; while 
Charles Martel presented to him the 
castle of Utrecht for his residence and 
the surrounding district for his see. 

The University, close to the Cathedral, 
founded in 1636, has about 450 students ; 
and, as many of the Dutch aristocracy 
reside at Utrecht, the greater number of 
pupils are of the upper classes. There 
are collections of natural history, mine- 
rals, &c, belonging to it. 

The Mint of Holland is situated here. 

Adrian Floriszoon, afterwards Pope 
Adrian VI., the tutor of Charles V., 
was born at Utrecht, in a house still 
standing on the Oude Gracht : a house 
built by him still goes by the name of 
the Pope's house, and now serves as the 
residence of the Governor. 

One of the latest improvements here 
has been the transformation of the ram- 
parts into Boulevards, so as to render 
them an agreeable promenade. 

The Mall, called Mahebaan, is an 
avenue of 8 rows of lime-trees, half a 
mile in length on the E. side of the city. 
It is one of the finest in Europe, and 
was saved from being cut down by the 
express command of Louis XIV., at a 
time when his army spared nothing else 
in Holland. Travellers going to Xijme- 
gen by the post-road should desire their 
drivers to pass through it, as it lies but 
a little way out of the direct road. The 
game of Pall Mall is still kept up. 



Holland. 



ROUTE 5. — ZEIST. ARNHEM. NIJMEGEN. 



71 



Utrecht is the head-quarters of the 
Jansenists, a sect of dissenters from the 
Roman Catholic church, who object 
to the bull of Tope Alexander VI I., 
condemning as heretical certain doctrines 
of Jansenius Bishop of Ypres. They 
scarcely exist in any number, except 
in Holland, where they are now reduced 
to 5000. Utrecht is the see of their 
archbishop. 

Medical men will take an interest in a 
large collection of anatomical prepara- 
tions, wax figures, &c., as it is one of 
the finest of the kind in Europe. 

Utrecht has some manufactories and 
bleaching grounds. The gates are shut 
at night, but admittance is obtained 
at any hour by paying about 2o?. 
Omnibus to Vreeswyck (1 hr.), to meet 
the Rhine steamers, every Mon., Wed., 
Fri., and Sat. ; starts from M. de Groot's 
Vreeburg. 

The hire of a carriage, with 2 horses, 
to Rotterdam (Rto. 9), 12 leagues, is 22 
guilders, including tolls and fees to the 
driver. 

Railway, 1| hr., 33 m., Utrecht to 
Arnhem. 

The road proceeds for a considerable 
distance through a country abounding 
in wood. Many fine forest- trees are 
seen here, and scarcely anywhere else in 
Holland. 

Driebergen Stat. — About 3 m. N.W. 
of this is Zeist (6 m. from Utrecht), re- 
markable for a Moravian colony settled 
in it, which deserves to be visited. The 
whole establishment is distinguished for 
the order and neatness maintained in it, 
and is supported by the manufactures 
of the brothers and sisters. On the N. 
of the road, near Zeist, is a mound of 
earth, erected in 32 days by the French 
army of 30,000 men, under Marmont, 
on the occasion of Napoleon being made 
emperor. The other stations are Maars- 
bergen, Vecncndaal, Edc, Wolfhezen. 

Arnhkm Stat.— Inns : The Sim, near 
the station, a new house, fine view ; 
Zwijnahoofd (Boar's Head), kept by a 
German ; Goude Arcnd (Golden Eagle), 
near the railway and the steamer ; New 
Belvedere Hotel; Cour de Hollande; 
Hotel dea Pays-Baa. 

Arnhem, chief (own of Gucldcrland, 
on the it. bank of the Rhine, 3 m. below 



the point where the CTssel branches off 
from it, has 15,000 inhab. It was for- 
tified by Cochorn, but the ramparts arc 
now turned into walks. Sir Philip 
Sydney died here, Oct. 1586, of the 
wound received in battle near Zutphcn : 
his wife had come over to soothe his 
dying hour. Though Arnhem itself has 
no attractions to detain the traveller, its 
neighbourhood abounds in villas, parks, 
and gardens, the finest being that of the 
Baron de Heeckcren, Hartgesberg — the 
entrance close to the railway station. 
The pleasure-grounds are fine, and the 
view from the Belvedere tower striking. 
Farther off, near the village of Velp 
(4 m. E. of Arnhem), are several fine 
country seats, Biljoen, Beekhuisen, 
Roozendaal, Middacht, Ridderoord, &c, 
to the gardens of which the public are 
allowed admittance. The finest view of 
Arnhem and the surrounding country is 
from the grounds of the country seat of 
the Baron van Brakell. Many of the 
grounds of the country scats are open ; 
but some have notices — only in Dutch 
— of man- traps and spring- gims. This 
part of Guelderland may, indeed, be 
termed " the Dutch paradise ; " but its 
chief attractions, besides those which it 
derives from art, are, the abundance 
and purity of its flowing streams, to 
which the native of other provinces of 
Holland is a stranger, and the beauty 
of the trees. Prussian Mail daily from 
Arnhem to DUsseldorf by Went corre- 
sponding with the trains. 

Diligences 4 times a day to Nijnie- 
gen, daily to Deventer. The road to 
Nijmcgen crosses the Rhine by a floating 
bridge, and traverses the district called 
the island of Betuwe (see p. 84), passing 
through the villages of Elden and Elst. 
At Lent, a small village on the Waal, 
with a tolerable inn, opposite Nijmcgen, 
a flying bridge conveys carriage and 
passengers across the Waal to — 

2. Nijmegen. (Germ. Nimwegen). 
— runs (none good, and all dear) : 
II. des Pays-Bas, near the steam- 
boats, dear ; Plaats Royal ; Hotel de 
Franofort ; Rotterdamer Wagen, near 
the Quai — most of the diligences start 
from this house. Nijmegen is situated 
on the 1. bank of the Waal : it has 
24,000 inhab. The Romans called it 



72 



ROUTE 5. NIJMEGEN. 



Sect. I. 



Noviomagus. It is a frontier fortress of 
Holland, strongly defended, and built 
on the side and slope of a hill called 
the Hoenderberg, on which the Romans 
formed a permanent camp to protect 
their Belgic possessions from inroads of 
the Germans. As this is a frontier 
town, passports are taken from strangers 
on their arrival ; and those who intend 
to set out early in the morning should 
take care to regain them overnight. The 
quay is separated from the town by a 
wall, and it is difficult to obtain an en- 
trance at night after the gates are shut. 

The Town Hall (Raadhuis), a build- 
ing in the style of the Renaissance 
(1554), ornamented in front with 2 
rows of statues of German emperors, 
benefactors of the town, is chiefly re- 
markable as the place where the Treaty 
of 1678, between Louis XIV., Charles 
II. of Spain, and the States of Holland, 
was signed. It contains portraits of the 
ambassadors* upon this occasion, and a 
few Roman antiquities, dug up in the 
neighbourhood, where the ground is 
constantly disclosing similar relics of 
the Roman settlement here. The sword 
with which the Counts Egmont and 
Horn were beheaded is also shown here. 

The Church of St. Stephen, begun 
1272, is an interesting Gothic building 
of brick, in the form of a Greek cross, 
and contains, in the centre of the 
ancient choir, the monument of Cathe- 
rine de Bourbon, wife of Adolphus of 
Egmont, Duke of Gueldres. Her effigy 
is engraved on a plate of copper, and 
upon smaller plates at the sides are 
figures of the Apostles and coats of arms. 

Upon an elevation, which for Holland 
is considerable, stood the Castle of Val- 
Itenhof, commonly called het Hof, said 
to have been built by Julius Caesar, and 
inhabited afterwards by Charlemagne. 
It was demolished in 1794 by the 
French. The only parts now remain- 
ing are a fragment of the church and a 
very perfect circular Chapel or Baptistry 
near the brow of the hill : it is probably 
of the 12th or 13th cent. The space 
of ground adjoining it, once a part of 
the ramparts of the town, is planted with 
trees, and serves as a public walk, over- 
looking the river and quay. On another 
eminence a little higher up rises the Bel- 



vedere, a lofty summer-house built by 
the town, on the foundation of a tower, 
said to be part of a chateau of the Duke 
of Alva, now converted into a cafe. 
The view from its top is pleasing, com- 
prehending the rivers which branch off 
at the head of the Delta of the Rhine, 
viz. the Rhine, the Waal, and the IJssel, 
with the Maas flowing on the S. 
This is the most interesting spot in 
Nijmegen, and, together with the few 
other sights, may be seen in two hours. 
The views from Berg-en-dal, Beek, and 
Upbergen, in the neighbourhood, will also 
leave agreeable impressions. 

Nijmegen remained long in the hands 
of the Spaniards. A bold attempt made 
in 1589 by Martin Sehenk van Mjdek, 
a Guelderland nobleman, to surprise the 
town, failed, and he was drowned. His 
body, when found by the Spaniards, 
was quartered and hung in chains to 
the principal gates, but was afterwards 
interred in the Great Church. One of 
these chains is preserved inthetownhall. 

In 1672, Marlborough, then Captain 
Churchill of the grenadiers serving 
under Turenne at the siege of Nijmegen, 
attracting that great general's praise by 
his bravery, was called by him. the 
handsome Englishman. 

Diligences, 4 times a day, in 2 hrs., 
to Arnhem (meeting the railway trains 
to Utrecht and Amsterdam) daily ; the 
Hague, in 12 hrs. ; Cologne, by Cleves, 
in about 18 hrs. ; and Dusseldorf in 
12 hrs. Steamers to Cologne (see 
Rte. 34) and down the Rhine (Rte. 
1 1) to Rotterdam in 8 hrs, ; in summer 
daily, in winter 3 times a- week. 

ROUTE 6. 

AMSTERDAM TO ARNHEM, BY AMEES- 
FOORT. 

12f posts = 58| Eng. m. 

Diligence daily in 9 hrs. 

Pass the Diemermeer polder (see R, 5) . 

Muiden. — When the forces of Louis 
XIV. had succeeded in taking Xaarden, 
the Dutch let in the sea near this point, 
laid the whole country under water as 
far as Amsterdam, and thus effectually 
checked the advance of the invading 
army, and saved the Low Countries from 
subjugation. Muiden commands the en- 
ormous sluice-gates which have been 



Holland. 



ROUTE 7. AMSTERDAM TO GRONINGEN. 



73 



erected since that event. The Dutch his- 
torian Hooft resided in the chateau. A 
short distance S. of'Muiden is Weesp, at 
the mouth of the Vecht ; this place has 
many distilleries of gin, which is par- 
ticularly in request for the American 
market. Amsterdam is supplied with 
water from a place called Nichtevccht, 
higher up on the Vecht. 

3 Naardcn. — Inn ; Hof van Holland. 
A fortress with immensely broad ditches, 
fortified by Coehorn, on the Zuider Zee ; 
2000 inhab. It was taken by the 
Spaniards under Frederick of Toledo, 
who burnt it to the ground, after having 
put to the sword all its inhabitants, 
without distinction of age or sex. It 
was again taken, in 1672, by the 
French, and afterwards recovered by 
William III. It forms the key of all 
the water communications of Holland. 
At Naardcn the marsh land ends, and 
the vast heaths, which extend, with 
partial interruptions of cultivation, all 
the way to the Ems and Elbe, begin. 

Beyond this the road turns away from 
the sea. 

3# Amersfoort — Inn ; Doclen, not 
good, 9000 inhab., on the Eem — is noted 
as the birthplace of Barneveldt, Grand 
Pensionary of Holland. The college 
for the education of Jansonist priests 
(sec p. 71) is established here. There 
are manufactures of bombazcen here, 
and much tobacco is cultivated and 
dried in the neighbourhood. 

About 5 m. from Amersfoort is the 
beautiful villa of Soestyk, presented by 
the States of the Netherlands to the 
present King when Prince of Orange, 
in gratitude for his conduct at Waterloo. 
It is prettily situated, surrounded with 
gardens. There is nothing remarkable 
in the road by 

2{ De Klomp to— 

3^ Arnhem (sec Boutc 5). 

ROUTE 7. 

AMSTERDAM TO GRONINGEN, LEEUWAR- 
DEN, HARLINGEN, AND EMDEN — VISIT 
TO THE PAUPER COLONIES OF FREDE- 
RIKSOORD, 

43± Posts = 204f Eng. m. 

A steamer every morning from Am- 
sterdam to Kampen (p. 59), returning 
[N. 0.] 



the same afternoon (p. 85), by which 
a large portion of the land journey may 
be avoided. Steamers '■'> times a week to 
Zwolle and to Harlingen in 8 or 10 h. 

Travellers who follow the land route 
must not expect to meet with a good 
road or picturesque country. The man- 
ners of the inhabitants in the northern 
provinces of Holland are singular and 
primitive. 

3 Naardcn. -j 

3| Amersfoort. I See Route 6. 

4 i Hardcrwijk. I 

2| Elburg. — Inn, Post. 

The road passes through Hattem on 
the left bank of the IJsscl, then crosses 
that river to — 

2~ Zwolle (Inns ; Kcizerskroon, 
extortionate ; — Heerenlogemcnt), the 
capital of Overijssel, a prosperous com- 
mercial town of 14,000 inhab., remark- 
able for its cleanliness, situated on a 
small stream called the Zwarte Water. 
The entrance from Deventer, through an 
old gateway with peaked turrets, is 
picturesque. There are good streets and 
spacious places. The reformed Church 
of St. Michael contains a handsome 
carved pulpit. The gardens and walks 
about the town are very agreeable. A 
convent, which once stood on the hill of 
St. Agnes, was the residence, for 64 
years, of Thomas a Kempis, whose work 
on the " Imitation of Christ" is trans- 
lated into almost every living language. 
He died here in 1471. G. Tcrburg, the 
painter, was born at Zwolle, 1608. 

Through Hasseltand Zwarte Sluis to — 

3\ Meppel. — Inn, Heerenlogemcnt. 
About 15 m. from Meppel, and 3 from 
Steenwijk, are the Pauper Agricultural 
Colonies of Frederiksoord and Will- 
emsoord. There is a tolerable inn on 
the spot. 

The great increase of mendicity in 
Holland after the years of scarcity, 1816 
and 1817, led to the formation of a So- 
ciety of Charity (Maatsehappij van Wel- 
dadigheid), for the purpose of rescuing 
from beggary able-bodied labourers and 
their families, by settling them on waste 
lands, employing them in rendering these 
wastes productive, and by educating 
their children. The project met with 
the support of the late King. A society 
was at once formed at the Hague, with 

E 



74 



ROUTE 7. — SOCIETY OF CHARITY : PAUPER COLONIES. Sect. I. 



Prince Frederick as President. In a 
short time 20,000 subscribers were en- 
rolled, who contributed 3^ florins each, 
in all 70,000 fl. (about 5850J.) With this, 
in 1818, 1300 acres of tolerably good 
land, and 2600 acres of barren heath, 
in the province of Drenthe and on the 
borders of Overijssel, were purchased. 
The land cost 56,000 florins, 14,000 re- 
mained. The first operations were ren- 
dering the river Aa, which runs through 
the district, navigable to the Zuider 
Zee, erecting 52 cottages for as many- 
families, or for 6 or 8 individuals each, 
a public magazine, a spinning fac- 
tory, and a school. On Oct. 10, 1818, 
52 pauper families, sent from various 
communes, were settled in the colony, 
to which was given the name of Frede- 
riksoord (oord, district). The communes 
to which they belonged contracted with 
the society for the reception of these 
persons, whom they would otherwise be 
compelled to maintain at home. The 
expense of estabhshing, with necessary 
outfits, 3 families or 24 persons, was 
found to amount to 1600 fl., or about 
142/. Loans were then raised, each 
limited to this amount, as the expense 
of locating 3 families : these were ad- 
vanced by the government, by the King in 
his private capacity, by communes, and 
by benevolent societies or individuals. 
For each loan the contributors were al- 
lowed to send 3 families. There are now 
(1848) upwards of 2000 families at 
Frederiksoord and the adjoining colony 
of Willemsoord. Each family has a 
separate cottage, built at a cost to the 
society of 40/. The original plan was 
to give every family 3 acres of land, 
half of it having been rendered produc- 
tive beforehand, a cow, and a pig. 
They were also furnished with clothes, 
implements of agriculture, and provi- 
sions for a certain period. All this and 
other advances were set down as a debt 
to the society, to be repaid by the earn- 
ings of the colonists and by the produce 
of the land. The instances of the com- 
plete discharge of the original debt are 
very rare indeed, and the managers soon 
rested satisfied if no new debts were 
contracted in addition to the first. The 
whole establishment was placed under 
the superintendence of a director : a 



sub-director was appointed to preside 
over each 100 families, a quarter-master 
over 20 families, and a section-master, 
thoroughly and practically an agricul- 
turist, over 12 families. 

Except in 30 or 40 cases, in which 
the parties are in the position of tenants 
to the society, and pay as on lease for 
their 3-acre allotments, the colonists 
now work for the society on any lands 
desired, and have no longer any con- 
nexion with 3 acres : each family, how- 
ever, still receives a house, a cow, and 
a garden not exceeding 1 acre. One 
reason for this change was, that there 
were many incapacitated for cultivating 
lands, but able for other trades. Ee- 
claiming and cultivating the land is, 
however, the chief employment of the 
colonists, and those who are ignorant of 
agriculture are instructed. The spade 
and hoe have been chiefly used. All 
work is performed by the piece and not 
by time. Each labourer receives, at the 
end of the day, a card stating the amount 
of his earnings, for which he receives an 
equivalent in potatoes, bread, &c. There 
is a maximum fixed ; if he earns more 
than that per week the surplus is put in 
reserve and given him at the end of the 
year, after deducting for the administra- 
tion of the colony, &c. : he also receives 
some clothes quarterly. The idle are 
compelled to work, or, if they refuse, 
are sent off to the penal colony of Om- 
merschans. At seasons unsuited to field 
labour the women are employed in spin- 
ning and weaving. The children are 
instructed in schools built on the spot, 
and are entirely in the schools until 
they are 12 years old, or, if backward, 
13 ; they then commence work at weav- 
ing or out-of-door work, &c. &c. The 
children are only kept in the colony until 
20 to 23 years of age, when they are 
desired to provide for themselves. There 
.are places of worship for Lutherans. 
Catholics, and Jews. The education of 
the children is intrusted to the care of 
the managers. 

Houses have been built by the co- 
lonists with bricks formed from the 
clay dug on the spot, cemented with 
lime produced from shells brought 
from the sea -shore, and burnt with turf 
found on the land. The houses are 



Holland. ROUTE 7. — SOCIETY OF CHARITY : TENAL COLONIES. 



75 



built at intervals along the side of 
broad roads crossing each other at right 
angles, and are all on one plan, and are 
well adapted for the comforts of a fa- 
mily. They are thatched with reeds, 
which are said to be more durable than 
straw or heather, lasting from 20 to 30 
years. This reed (Arundo phragmitis) 
grows by the sides of the canals and 
rivers, 6 and 7 ft. high. 

Besides these two free colonies, two 
others, having much the character of 
Penal Colonies, have been established 
— one at Vecnhuizen, 15 m. from Fre- 
dcriksoord and 9 from Assen, but 
situated on the same uninterrupted 
heath. It was originally proposed to 
settle here the children of the different 
orphan asylums in the towns of Hol- 
land, under the idea that the situation 
and air of the large towns were detri- 
mental to their health. Accordingly, 
the society agreed to receive them for 
a consideration of 60 guilders per an- 
num for each child. This scheme, 
however, did not meet with general 
approval, and was subsequently aban- 
doned, and the establishment converted 
into a mendicity colony. It corre- 
sponds nearly in its character, arrange- 
ments, and discipline with that of Om- 
merschans, a few miles from Meppel. 
This was a dilapidated fortress, situ- 
ated also in the midst of a heath. It 
serves as a penitentiary for refractory 
free colonists, and for the amendment 
of beggars and idle persons, but not 
criminals, sent by their parishes or the 
government. They are compelled to 
work either as field labourers or in the 
workshops. They are generally sent 
for a certain number of years, to reform 
idle habits. Punishments of various 
kinds are inflicted on the refractory. 
A value is put on their daily work, and 
they receive a certain portion for them- 
selves. The colony is said not to be 
entirely self-supporting. The number 
of detenus amounts to about 2000, in- 
cluding women and children. Their 
escape is prevented partly by a canal 
which surrounds the building, partly by 
a cordon of watchmen established in 25 
cottages built in a circle, at the distance 
of 5 minutes' walk from one another. 
The experiment has been tried now 



for 30 years, and though, in point of 
profit, it has not realized the sanguine 
expectations of its projectors, nor as a 
commercial speculation is likely to suc- 
ceed, yet it has succeeded in the bene- 
volent objects at which it aimed, by 
rescuing many hundred individuals and 
families, previously paupers and friend- 
less, from vice and destitution ; making 
them useful members of society ; and 
in rendering fertile and profitable, and 
capable of supporting human beings, 
large tracts of land previously desert 
and useless, which are daily increasing 
in value. The expenses of these co- 
lonies have indeed become so great a 
burden, that the government has been 
seriously contemplating their abolition, 
and is only withheld from such a step 
by the not knowing how to provide for 
the persons supported on them. 

The founder and originator of these 
valuable institutions was the late Ge- 
neral Van den Bosch, who was the first 
director. While serving in the Dutch 
colonies in the East, he purchased an 
estate in the island of Java, and devoted 
much of his time to improvements in 
agriculture. It did not long escape his 
observation that the estate of a native 
mandarin, which lay next to his own, 
and resembled it in soil and situation, 
never failed, in spite of all the pains he 
took with his own land, to produce 
far finer crops. This induced him to 
form an acquaintance with his neigh- 
bour, from whom he learnt a system 
which proved so beneficial, that the 
estate, which he purchased in Java for 
25,000 rix dollars, fetched 150,000 when 
sold, on his departure from the country. 
The secret of the mandarin's luxuriant 
crop appears to have been the attention 
he paid to obtaining a good stock of 
manure for his land ; to this the efforts 
of the colonists arc studiously directed. 
(See a Journal of a visit to the Dutch 
dairy farms, in 1848, by Lord Blantyre, 
published in the Industrial Magazine.) 



The direct road to Groningcn runs 
through Assen. It takes about 8 hrs. 
to travel by Trekschuit from Meppel to 
Assen. 

3 Dicverbrug. 

3 Assen. A Tillage of onlv 1800 
E 2 



76 



ROUTE 7. — ASSEN. LEEUWARDEN. GRONINGEN. Sect. I- 



inhab., though, the chief place in the j 
province of Drenthe. It has two Inns ; 
both execrable : the Post is the least 
bad. (Goldner Bomer.) Near Assen, 
at Ballo and Suidlaaren, occur examples 
of those very singular sepulchres of an 
ancient people, commonly called Hiine- 
bedden : they are usually large stones 
placed upright in the ground, in rows, 
surrounded by circles of smaller stones, 
or covered by others laid across, and 
open at the end ; some are 80 feet long. 
Urns, hatchets, hammers, and other 
articles of wood and stone, but none of 
metal, have been found in them. 

The road from Meppel to Leeu- 
warden passes through Steenwyk to — 

5 Heerenveen. 

4 Leeuwarden (Inn, Nieuwe Doe- 
len, very good), chief town of the pro- 
vince of Friesland, with a population of 
more than 17,000 souls. In one of the 
churches are monuments of the Stad- 
holders of Friesland, which the French 
defaced. The fortifications are turned 
into plantations. Leeuwarden possesses 
a large and handsome Townhouse. The 
facjade of the House of Correction (Huis 
van Burgerlijke en Militaire Verzeker- 
ing), with the date. MD., is worthy of 
observation. It is a "rich specimen of 
mixed brick and stone work, with 7 
statues representing Virtues, &c, upon 
the steps of the quaint gable. Just 
within the Harlingen gate stands a fine 
old leaning church tower, of bricks of 
two colours and grey stone : the body 
of the church was destroyed by a 
storm. From the top of the tower is a 
fine view over the rich pastures of 
Friesland to Harlingen. 

No province of Holland has pre- 
served, to the same extent, its ancient 
manners and costumes as that of Fries- 
land. The head-dress of the women, 
the gold hoops and pendants, and the 
beautiful lace caps, are especially de- 
serving of remark. Such a head-dress 
sometimes costs 2000 guilders. These 
costumes may be seen in perfection at 
Leeuwarden on market-day. The wo- 
men are celebrated for beauty. Many 
of the towns, villages, and even farm- 
houses, and all the old churches, are 
built on mounds (teepen) raised above 
the surface, which originally afforded 



refuge to the inhabitants from inun- 
dation, before the country was properly 
dyked. The Frieslanders pride them- 
selves on having been from the earliest 
times a free and independent people, 
governed by laws of their own, enacted 
at their legislative assemblies during 
the middle ages. The Asegabok, a code 
of laws of the Eustringian Frisians, of 
the 13th cent., is the earliest collec- 
tion of these enactments that exists. 
Frisic is still the language of the inha- 
bitants of Heligoland and the belt of 
islands that extends along the coast 
from the Zuider Zee to Jutland, and is 
also spoken in some villages and districts 
of E. and W\ Friesland and Sleswick. 

12 m. E. of Leeuwarden is the sea- 
port of Harlingen (Inn, Heerenloge- 
ment), on the Zuider Zee, with 9000 
inhab. There is a steamer from Lon- 
don to Harlingen every "Wednesday, 
and 2 every Saturday. Much butter, 
the product of Friesland, is exported 
hence. It stands on the site of a town 
swallowed up by the sea in 1134, and 
is itself protected by one of the largest 
dykes in Holland, 40 ft. high, fenced in 
at its base with 3 rows of piles driven 
into the ground. The monument 
erected by the Dutch to the Spanish 
Governor Boblas, who first introduced 
(1570) an improved method of con- 
structing these sea-walls, still exists S. 
of the town ; gratitude for the benefits 
conferred having proved stronger than 
national hatred against a Spaniard. A 
Trekschuit goes daily from Harlingen 
to Groningen, by Franeker and Leeu- 
warden ; and a steam-boat to Amster- 
dam 3 times a week. 

About 32 m. E. of Leeuwarden (6 
hrs. by diligence), and connected with 
it by a grand canal extending from the 
river Ems to Harlingen on the Zuider 
Zee, lies 

4. Grcotxgen (Inns: Pays-Bas; 
Doelen ; De Groote Miinster ; TTapen 
van Amsterdam), a fortified town at the 
junction of the Hunse and Aa ; the 
most important of the X. provinces of 
Holland. 30,000 inhab. 

The University, founded in 1615, is 
frequented by about 400 students, and 
has an excellent museum of natural 
history. The finest buildings are the 



Holland. 



ROUTE 8. AMSTERDAM TO BREMEN". 



77 



great Church of St Martin, a handsome 
Gothic structure, and the Hotel de Ville, 
a modern huilding, faced with Portland 
stone ; hoth situated in the Bree Markt, 
one of the grandest squares in Holland. 
On the Osscnmarkt is the monument of 
Guyot, the founder of an institution 
for the deaf and dumh, which is still 
flourishing. 

By means of a canal called Schuiten- 
diep, large vessels come up from the sea 
to the town. 

4| Winschoten. Inn, Post, hest, hut 
bad ; last town in Holland ; 2000 inhab. 

If Neue Schanze, a small frontier 
fortress of Hanover, strong from its 
position among swamps, which render 
approach difficult. 

2| Weener on the Ems, here a broad 
river, crossed by a ferry for horses and 
carnages. 

1 Leer (Inn, Konig von Preussen, 
good ; Prinz v. Oranien), a town of 
5000 inhab., with a considerable trade 
to England in agricultural produce. 
" Between Leer and Oldenburg, in the 
middle of the swamp, is a little pri- 
mitive district called Saterland, where 
the old Frisian language is still spoken." 
— F. S. There is steam communica- 
tion from Leer to Emden, but bad tra- 
velling by land. 

2 Emden [Inn, Post, in the market- 
place), a fortified town, capital of the 
Hanoveiian province of E. Friesland, 
contains about 15,000 inhab. It has 
the most extensive trade in oats of any 
port in Europe. It lies in a marshy 
situation ; but the land around it is of 
great fertility, yielding, besides oats, 
much butter and cheese. In the Rath- 
haus is a curious collection of ancient 
arms and armour. The town lies be- 
low the level of the Ems, and is de- 
fended against it by strong dykes, not- 
withstanding which it has suffered from 
repeated inundations. A canal is now 
constructing between strong dykes con- 
necting Emden with the deep water of 
the Dollart ; and the town will, when 
this is completed, be protected by a 
high and strong embankment against 
the incursions of this estuary. In 1826 
the water stood in the streets for 3 
months up to the first floor of the 
houses. On the ramparts were buried 



many thousand British officers and sol- 
diers who died here from the sufferings 
they endured in the retreat of the Duke 
of York's army from Holland, in the 
dreadful winter of 1791. 

Backhuiscn and Moucheron, painters, 
were born here. 

Steamers to Delfzyl in Groningen 
eveiy day. 

The shortest way from Groningen to 
Emden, and the best in not very bad 
weather, is by Treckschuit to Delfzyl, 
in 5 or 6 hrs., through the picturesque 
village of Appingadam. At Delfzyl is 
a little seaport inn, the Post. A good 
steamer crosses the Dollart every day, 
in about \\ hr., to Emden ; on its 
arrival at which place, another steamer 
starts for Leer, which is reached in 
about 2£ hrs. from Emden. Travel- 
lers bound for Oldenburg and Bre- 
men may proceed on at once by dili- 
gence from Leer to Oldenburg, a jom-- 
ney of 8 or 9 hrs. Steamers proceed 
up the Ems beyond Leer. 

EOUTE 8. 

AMSTERDAM TO BREMEN. 

23^ Dutch posts ; and 20| Germ. m. 

Diligence byway of Osnabruck. 

A tedious road through a country 
almost entirely heath, beyond 

3 Naarden, ) gee Routc 6> 

3| Amersfoort. J 

2 Voorthuizen. 

3~ Appledoorn, a pretty village. 
Not far from it is the Palace of the 
Loo, the summer residence of the late 
King of Holland : the gardens are ex- 
tensive, but flat ; they contain fine 
sheets of water. It was the favourite 
retreat of William III., who repaired 
hither to hunt. There is a good Inn 
near the palace. 

2 Deventer (Inns ; Nieuwe Kci- 
zers Kroon (Imperial Crown) ; 't 
Wapen van Overijssel), a thriving 
town on the bank of the IJssel, 14,000 
inhab., and a considerable iron-foundry 
and carpet manufactory. The Cathedral 
is a vast and venerable edifice, in the 
late Gothic style, surmounted by a 
handsome tower; it contains some 
good painted glass. The English 
forces, under the Earl of Leicester, 



78 



ROUTE 9. ROTTERDAM TO UTRECHT. GOUDA. Sect. I, 



gained possession of Deventer in 1586 ; 
but Col. "Wm. Stanley, who was ap- 
pointed governor, treacherously yielded 
it to the Duke of Parma in 1587, tak- 
ing over with him his regiment of 1300 
men. He became a traitor from a 
principle of conscience, believing his 
duty to his country to be incompatible 
with that which he owed to the Romish 
faith. This is the native place of the 
philologer Gronovius, and Erasmus 
went to school here. Deventer is cele- 
brated for its gingerbread ; and in order 
to keep up its reputation, an officer, 
appointed by the magistrates, inspects 
the cakes before they are baked, in 
order to ascertain that the dough is 
properly mixed. Many thousand 
pounds of this gingerbread are annually 
exported. Travellers should ask for 
the Deventer Koek, at the shop of W. 
J. Smies, called the Allemans Gacling, 
in the Groote Kerkhof E., No. 1354. 
It is close to the house at which the 
diligence stops. 

2 Holten. 

3 Almelo. 

2^ Ootmarsum. 

2 Nordhorn ; first town in Hanover. 
The distance to this place is 23J Dutch 
posts. German miles and posts begin 
at the frontier. Here the Dutch 
brick chaussee ends ; beyond, the road, 
though inferior, is improved of late, 
and tolerable. 



2| Lingen. Inn bad, charges ex- 
orbitant. 

4 Herzlake. 
If Loningen. 
3^ Kloppenberg. 
2 Ahlhorn. 
2 "Wildeshausen. 

Delmenhorst. 
2 Bremen. See Route 69. 

ROUTE 9. 

ROTTERDAM TO UTRECHT, BY GOUDA. 

6| posts = 30± Eng. m. 

Steamer once a-day, at 2 p.m., to de 
Vaart, from thence by diligence to 
Utrecht ; arrival at Utrecht 7|- p.m. : 
from Utrecht at 8 a.m., after the arrival 
of the first trains from Amsterdam and 
Arnhem ; arrival at Rotterdam 12 h. 



30 m. Diligences twice a-day to 
Utrecht. 

Steamer to Gouda, started in 1848, 
at 9 o'clock a.m., from Rotterdam, 
reaching Gouda in about 2 hrs., and 
left Gouda for Rotterdam at 2 p.m., 
allowing thus full time to see Gouda. 
Fare, 90 cents. : but return or 
"double journey" tickets (personaal 
kaarten voor de heen en terugreize), 
1 fl. 50 cents. 

The road to Gouda is conducted 
along the high dyke, constructed, in 
1272, by the side of the IJssel, to pro- 
tect the country from inundations. On 
the way lies the Zevenhuisische Plas, 
one of the most recent instances of the 
draining of a polder (§ 11). 

At Kordenoord, near Gouda, may be 
seen 2 of the finest windmills in Hol- 
land ; they are of vast size and admir- 
able construction. 

2^ Gouda or Tergouw. Inns ; Doe- 
len, very good ; Salmon (Zalni) . A 
decayed town of 17,500 inhab. ; with a 
large grass-grown square. 

The large Ch. of St. John (Jans Kerk) 
is famous for its painted glass windows, 
considered to be nearly the finest in 
Europe. They are for the most part 
30 ft. high (2 are nearly double that 
height), and finished with great atten- 
tion to the details, but are of various 
degrees of merit. They were executed, 
between 1560 and 1603, by 2 brothers, 
Dirk and Wouter Crabeth, and their 
pupils and assistants. One (No. 10), 
having been destroyed by a storm, was 
restored in 1655, and by its inferiority 
proves the art to have been then on the 
decline. The finest are by the Crabeths, 
and are pointed out by their initials in 
the following enumeration. They were 
presents from towns or wealthy indi- 
viduals, made on the rebuilding of the 
church after a fire, about the year 1560. 
Very elaborate drawings of them, by 
Christoph. Pierson, are preserved in the 
vestry. A small book, very diverting, 
from its quaint English and mis-spell- 
ing, is sold by the verger for 5 stivers, 
intituled " Explanation of the famous 
and renowned Glas-work or painted 
Windows, in the fine and eminent 
Church at Gouda, for the use and com- 
modity of both Inhabitans and Foreign- 



Holland, route 9. — gouda. 10. — iiague to utrecht. 



79 



its that come to sco this artificial work." 
The subjects of the windows are as fol- 
lows, beginning on the left hand on 
entering the church by the door under 
the steeple : — 1. An allegorical repre- 
sentation of Liberty of Conscience. 2. 
The taking of Damietta by the Emperor 
Frederic Barbarossa in the :3rd Crusade. 
3. The Virgin of Dort. 4. Justice and 
Valour with the Arms of the Lords of 
Rhineland. 5. The Queen of Shcba 
\ isits Solomon, by W. Crabcth. 6. 
Siege of Bethulia : Beheading of Ho- 
lofernes, by D. Crabeth. 7. The Last 
Supper, with Queen Mary of England 
and Philip II. of Spain, the donors, 
kneeling. The upper part of this 
window was destroyed by a hailstorm. 
By D. C. 8. The Sacrilege of Helio- 
dorus, by W. C. 9. The Angel appear- 
ing to Zacharias. 10. The Annuncia- 
tion. 11. Birth of John the Baptist. 
12. The Nativity, by W. C. 13. Christ 
among the Doctors. 14. John the Bap- 
tist Preaching, by B.C. 15. The Bap- 
tism of Christ, by B. C. 16. Sermon on 
the Mount, by B. G. 17. John the 
Baptist rebuking Herod. 18. John the 
Baptist's Disciples questioning Christ, 
by B.C. 19. Beheading of John the 
Baptist. 20 and 21 represent the Suf- 
ferings, Resurrection, and Ascension of 
Christ. 22. The Money-changers driven 
from the Temple, by B. C. 23. The 
Offering of Elijah before the Priests of 
Baal, by W. C. 24. The Angel send- 
ing Philip to baptize the Ethiopian, 
and Peter and John healing the Lame 
Man, by B. C. 25. The Belief of Lei- 
den, and Raising the Siege. 26. The 
Relief of Samaria. 27. The Pharisee 
and Publican in the Temple. 28. The 
Woman taken in Adultery. 29. Nathan 
reproving David. 30. The "Whale east- 
ing forth Jonah. 31. In the S. tran- 
sept, Balaam and his Ass. Besides 
these, there are 13 windows above the 
choir, representing Christ and his 
Apostles. 

" The church contains a very power- 
ful and sweet-toned organ, in which 
the vox hxmana stop is especially fine." 
— //. F. C. 

The Hotel de Villa was the residence 
of Jacqueline of Bavaria, whose part 
was taken by the citizens during the 



civil wars of the Hooks and Kabel- 
jauws (Hooks and Codfish, the names 
of two factions, like Whig and Tory 
with us). It was of fine old "red 
brick and stone, but has been white- 
washed. 

There are large manufactories of 
bricks here. The clay for bricks is 
scraped up out of the bed of the IJssel, 
with a sort of hoe having a sack at- 
tached to it, and is particularly well 
adapted for the purpose. Tobacco-pipes 
were also made here in large quantities. 
The clay for them was brought from 
the banks of the Moselle, and the 
neighbourhood of Namur. The pipes 
are shaped in moulds of brass ; but the 
most difficult operation, the boring, is 
done by the hand, with a piece of iron 
wire blunt at the extremity, and re- 
quires great dexterity in the workmen. 
The trade has fallen off, owing to the 
prevalence of cigars. Very few people 
are now employed in it. 

The best cheese in Holland is a new- 
milk cheese called Gouda cheese, being- 
made near this town. 

The Rhine communicates, for ship 
navigation, with the IJssel and Meuse, 
by Gouda. A ship-lock at the Gouda 
Sluis passes the vessel across the dyke 
of the Rhine into a spacious canal 
connected with the Krommc Gouda 
river. This last was made in 1281 as 
a slaker to the Rhine. It is 9 m. 
long, and has an excellent tide-lock at 
Gouda, 153 ft. long and 25 ft. wide in 
the chamber. 

A cross-road, not very good, conducts 
from Gouda to Woerden, a town of 
2600 inhab., on the banks of the Old 
Rhine. Best Inn, Vcerhuis. 

4 Utrecht. (See Routes 5 and 10.) 

ROUTE 10. 

THE IIAGUE TO UTRECHT. 

9 posts = 41^ Eng. m. 

From the Hague to Leiden, Rail- 
road, sec Route 2 ; if by road, then as 
follows : — Near Voorburg is the house 
of Hofwyk, built by Constantine Huy- 
gens, the poet and statesman, described 
by him in his poems, and afterwards 
inhabited by Christian Huygens, the 
mathematician, and discoverer of Sa- 



so 



ROUTE 11. — THE RHINE. 



Sect. I. 



turn's ring. Farther on, at the village 
of Leydschendam, the traveller may 
remark the difference of level of the 
waters of two districts, the Eijnland 
on one side, and the Delftland on the 
other, which are here separated hy a 
lock. 

2§ Leiden is described at page 37. 
A diligence runs every morning, in 5 
hrs., from Leiden to Utrecht. 

On leaving Leiden, before reaching 
Kouderkerk, is Rembrand's mill, where 
he was born ; it lies on the 1. hand in 
going to Utrecht, between the road 
and the Rhine. See p. 41. 

2 Alphen. Inn, The Star, is famed 
for its perch dressed in waterzootje in 
high perfection. Beyond this the road 
passes the beautiful villages of Zwam- 
merdam and Bodegraven, and after- 
wards through 

2% Woerden, all memorable as the 
scenes of the atrocities committed by 
the French army, under Marshal Lux- 
emburg, in 1672. Their cruelty, as 
described by Voltaire, is not exagge- 
rated : so great was the hatred which 
it inspired in the minds of the Dutch, 
who were witnesses of their conduct, 
that descriptions of the war, called 
" Fransche Tyranny," were written and 
printed as school-books for their chil- 
dren to read, calculated to hand down 
an inheritance of hate for their enemies 
to future generations. 

2 Utrecht. There is a more direct 
road from the Hague, avoiding Lei- 
den and Woerden, by Yoorburg (1~ 
post), Gouda (3~), Utrecht (4), in 
Route 5. 

ROUTE 11. 

THE RHINE, A, FROM ROTTERDAM TO 
NIJMEGEN. 

Travellers, whether in search of 
amusement or pressed for time, should 
avoid the voyage up the lower part of 
the Rhine, below Cologne, because 
there are two other very interesting- 
routes from England to Cologne ; one 
by Rotterdam, Hague, Amsterdam, 
and Utrecht (Rtes. 2 and 5), w r hich, 
however, is somewhat circuitous; the 
other by Ostend, or Antwerp, and 
Brussels (Rtes. 17, 21, and 23), which 



is the shortest way from London, and by 
far the quickest since the formation of 
railroads through Belgium. The best 
way to visit the Rhine from England is 
to go by Belgium and its railways, and 
return by Holland down the Rhine. The 
Rhine below Cologne is a most uninteresting 
river, with high dykes on each side, 
which protect the flat country from in- 
undations and intercept all view, save 
of a few villages, church steeples, and 
farm-houses, painted of various colours, 
which are seen peering above them. 

There are three companies of Steamers 
on the Rhine, — the Cologne, distin- 
guished by black funnels ; the Diissel- 
dorf, by funnels with alternate stripes 
of black and white ; and the Nether- 
lands, by funnels half white and half 
black. The Cologne boats are the best, 
but go no lower down than Diisseldorf, 
where the passengers are transferred to 
the Netherlands Company's boats. The 
Diisseldorf Company also change boats 
at Diisseldorf, stopping 2 or 3 hrs. there 
in the middle of the night. There 
being no sleeping accommodation on 
board, and no restrictions as to the 
number of passengers, this passage is 
very imcomfortable, both pavilion and 
saloon being generally uncomfortably 
crowded. 

Between Rotterdam and Nijmegen 
there is a risk of sitting on a sandbank 
for an hour or two till the tide rises, 
and there is always a detention of some 
hours at the Prussian frontier. 

Steam-boats leave Rotterdam every 
morning in the summer, and every 
other morning in the latter part of the 
season. The hour of departure varies 
with the tide. They reach Nijmegen 
or Arnheni in about 12 hrs. Here 
passengers have the option of sleeping 
on board or ashore. For Fares refer 
to the printed bills of the companies. 

The State Cabin has the advantage 
over the first cabin, that it is private ; 
it is, therefore, often convenient to 
secure it for a party in which there 
are several ladies. Beds are charged 
1 guilder = Is. 8d. extra-. 

A carriage, not accompanied by pas- 
sengers, costs 21. Is. 2d. ; with three or 
more persons, only 1/. 3s. 

N.B. If the traveller's passport has 



ROUTE 



-THE RHINE: WAAL BRANCH. DORT. 



not received a Prussian signature in 
England, it may be signed by the 
Prussian consul in Rotterdam. 

The Rhine, flowing out of Germany 
into Holland, descends in an undivided 
stream as far as the point of the Delta 
(the Insula Batavorum of the Romans). 
At a place called Pannerden it splits 
into two branches. From this division 
of its stream, Virgil applies the epithet 
bicornis to the Rhine (TEn. viii. 727). 
The left-hand branch, called the Waal 
or Vahal, directing its course W., passes 
Nijmegcn, joins the Mouse, and, in 
conjunction with it, assumes the name 
of Merwe. The other branch, which, 
after the first separation, retains the 
name of Rhine, turns northward ; £ a 
league above Arnhem it throws out an 
arm called IJssel, known to the ancients 
as Fossa Dnisi, because it was formed 
by Drusus in the reign of Augustus : it 
falls into the Zuider Zee after passing 
Zutphen, Dc venter, and Campen. The 
river after this continues on past Arn- 
hem to Wijk by Duurstedc, and there 
again divides, throwing off to the 1. an 
arm called the Lck, which falls into 
the Maas a little above Rotterdam. 
The other arm, still retaining the ori- 
ginal name of Rhine, after this sepa- 
ration, divides for the last time at 
Utrecht ; the offset is called the Vecht, 
and flows into the Zuider Zee. The 
old Rhine, the sole remnant of the once 
mighty river which carries its name to 
the sea, assumes the appearance of a 
canal, and, after passing sluggishly the 
town of Leiden, enters the ocean through 
the sluice-gates of Katwijk (see p. 41). 

a. THE WAAL. 

*** The right (rt.) and left (I) banks 
of a river are those which lie on the 
right or left hand of a person turning 
his back to the quarter from which the 
river descends. 

The Waal is the largest and most 
important of the 4 branches into which 
the Rhine divides its stream on reach- 
ing Holland. 

On quitting Rotterdam the guard- 
ship is passed, and (/.) Feycnoord, 
where is the largest engineering esta- 
blishment and foundry in Holland. 
Numerous country seats of rich Rot- 



terdam merchants arc scattered along 
the banks. The narrow arm of the 
Maas, called Spaniard's-Diep, is lined 
with shipyards, cottages, and wind- 
mills. JThe river Lek here falls into 
the Maas. A short distance higher up 
lies — 

I. Dort or Dordrecht (Inns : 
Ik'llevue ; Wapen van America ; and 
Valk), one of the oldest towns in Hol- 
land, with 21,000 inhab., and consider- 
able trade. 

The first Assembly of the States of 
Holland, held after their revolt from 
the yoke of Spain, met at Dort in 1572, 
and declared the Prince of Orange 
Stadholder, and the only lawful Go- 
vernor of the country . 

In an ancient Gothic building, stand- 
ing in a back street, and now degraded 
into a poor public-house, called Klove- 
niers Doelen, the famous assembly of 
Protestant divines, known as the Synod 
of Dort, was held, 1618-19. It lasted 
6 months, during which there were 
152 sittings, unprofitably occupied, for 
the most part, in discussing the incom- 
prehensible questions of Predestination 
and Grace. At the conclusion the pre- 
sident declared that " its miraculous 
labours had made hell tremble." The 
result of its labours was to declare the 
Calvinistic doctrines respecting predes- 
tination the established faith, and to 
condemn Arminius and his followers as 
heretics. The ordinances then passed 
were long the law of the Dutch national 
church. The apartment in which the 
Synod met is still preserved unaltered ; 
but, when visited recently by a Scotch 
traveller, was found filled with the 
scenes and trappings belonging to a 
party of strolling players, and converted 
temporarily into a theatre ! 

The Gothic Church, conspicuous at a 
long distance, owing to its tall square 
tower, contains a beautifully carved 
pulpit of white marble, adorned with 
bas-reliefs, numerous monuments, and 
some church plate of massive gold, pre- 
sented by an East India nun-chant. 

The Mint is a building of the 15th 
cent. 

Dort serves as a haven for the 
gigantic rafts of wood, the produce of 



the forests 



of Switzerland 
E 3 



and tho 



82 



ROUTE 1 1 . THE RHINE. BIESBOSCH. LOEVESTEIN. Sect. I. 



Schwarzwald, which, are brought clown 
the Rhine by crews of from 400 to 500 
men each, and are here broken up and 
sold. A single raft sometimes produces 
30,000/. A description of them^will be 
found in the route from Cologne to 
Mayence. The celebrated brothers De 
Witt were born here, also Cuyp and 
Schalken the painters, and Vossius. 

After a general survey of the town, 
which is truly Dutch in its combination 
of sluices and canals, and a visit to the 
old church, the timber-ponds where the 
raft-wood is collected, the windmills 
where it is sawn into planks, and the 
ship-builders' yards, there is nothing to 
detain a traveller here. A constant 
communication is kept up by steam- 
boats with Rotterdam and Moerdijk, 
which is on the road from Rotterdam 
to Antwerp (p. 88). 

Dort stands on an island formed by 
a terrible inundation in 1421, when the 
tide in the estuary of the Rhine, excited 
by a violent tempest, burst through a 
dyke, overwhelming a populous and 
productive district, which it at once 
converted into a waste of waters, called 
the Biesbosch (i. e. rushwood, from 
bies, rush, whence the English besom), 
part of which still exists. 72 villages 
and 100,000 human beings were swal- 
lowed up by the waves. 35 of the vil- 
lages were irretrievably lost, so that no 
vestige, even of the ruins, could after- 
wards be discovered. The only relic 
preserved from the waters is a solitary 
tower, called the house of Merwede. 
By this inundation the number of the 
mouths of the Rhine was increased, and 
the Waal was made double its former 
size. Many maps, as well as guide- 
books, represent this district as still 
under water, but a large part of it has 
been recovered ; still the river here 
spreading out bears the aspect of a lake 
interspersed with numerous islands, un- 
inhabited, but producing hay in abun- 
dance. 

The country about Dort seems choked 
with water ; every hollow is full, and 
the fear is excited lest, by the rising of 
the Rhine a foot, or even an inch or 
two, the whole should at once be over- 
whelmed by the waters. The Ablasser 
Waard, near- Gorcum, lies considerably 



lower than the bottom of the bed of the 
Rhine ! There are numerous and in- 
tricate sandbanks between Dort and 

rt. Gorcum, or Gorinchem, an old 
walled town, at the junction of the 
Merwe and Linge, and one of the first 
places taken by the Water Gueux from 
the Spaniards in 1572 ; but they sullied 
their victory with the murder of 19 
Catholic priests, for which their com- 
mander, Lumey, was disgraced by the 
States General. The anniversary of the 
Holy Martyrs of Gorcum is still ob- 
served in the Romish calendar. The 
canal of Zederick connects Gorcum on 
the Merwe with Vianen on the Lek. 
Nearly opposite Gorcum is (I.) Woud- 
richem, or Worcum. 

(/.) The Castle of Loevestein, situated 
on the west point of the island of Bom- 
mel, formed by the united streams of 
the Meuse and the Waal, was the prison 
of Grotius in 1619. The history of his 
escape in a box, March 22, 1621, gives 
an interest to the spot : — " He beguiled 
the tedious hours of confinement by 
study, relieving his mind by varying 
its objects. Ancient and modern lite- 
rature equally engaged his attention. 
Sundays he wholly dedicated to prayer 
and the study of theology. He com- 
posed the greater part of the ' Jus Belli 
et Pacis ' here. 20 months of impri- 
sonment thus passed away. His wife 
now began to devise projects for his 
liberty. She had observed that he was 
not so strictly watched as at first — that 
the guards who examined the chest 
used for the conveyance of his books 
and linen, being accustomed to see 
nothing in it but books and linen, be- 
gan to examine them loosely ; at length 
they permitted the chest to pass without 
any examination. Upon this she formed 
her project for her husband's release." 

She accommodated the chest to her 
purpose, by boring some holes in it to 
let in air. She intrusted her maid with 
the secret, and the chest was conveyed 
to Grotius' s apartment. She then re- 
vealed her project to him, and, after 
much entreaty, prevailed on him to get 
into the chest, and leave her in the 
prison. The books which Grotius bor- 
rowed were usually sent to Gorcum, 
and the chest which contained them 



Holland, route 11. — the rhine. — grotius. nijmegen. 



83 



passed in a boat from the prison at 
Loevestein to that town. 

Big- w ith tho fate of Grotius, the 
chest, as soon as he was enclosed in it, 
was moved into the boat, accompanied 
by the maid. One of the soldiers ob- 
serving that it was uncommonly heavy, 
the maid answered, " It is tho Arminian 
books which are so heavy." The soldier 
replied, apparently in joke, " Perhaps 
it is the Arminian himself;" and then, 
\rithout more ado, the chest was lodged 
in the boat. The maid accompanied it 
to Gorcum, and, when fairly afloat, 
made a signal with her handkerchief to 
her mistress that all was right. The 
window where Grotius' s wife stood is 
still pointed out in Loevestein. The 
passage from Loevestein to Gorcum 
took a considerable time. At length it 
reached Gorcum, and was deposited at 
the house of Jacob Daatzelaar, an Ar- 
minian friend of Grotius. The maid 
flew instantly to him, and told him that 
her master was in the box ; but Daat- 
zelaar, terrified for the consequences, 
declared he would have nothing to do 
with so dangerous a matter. Luckily 
his wife had more courage ; she sent 
away the servants on different errands, 
opened the chest, and set Grotius free. 
He declared that while he was in the 
chest, which was not more than 3J ft. 
long, he had felt a little faintness and 
much anxiety, but had suffered no other 
inconvenience. Having dressed him- 
self as a mason, with a rule and trowel, 
he went through the back door of Daat- 
zelaar" s house, accompanied by Daatze- 
laar' s wife's brother, a mason by trade, 
along the market-place, to a boat en- 
gaged for the purpose. It conveyed 
them. to Waalwijk, in Brabant, where 
he was safe. In the mean time every 
precaution had been taken by Madame 
do Groot to conceal her husband's de- 
parture from the governor and his 
jailors. She took particular care to 
light the lamp in the room whero Gro- 
tius was in the habit of studying ; and 
the governor, upon his return home in 
the evening, remarking the light in 
Grotius' s window, concluded that his 
prisoner was quite safe. Madame de 
Groot was not detained long in prison, 
and rejoined her husband soon after in 



Paris. There is usually a frigate in the 
Dutch navy bearing the name of Gro- 
tius' s wife, Marie van Reigersberch : 
history has rescued from oblivion the 
name of the trusty maid-servant also — 
it was Elsje van Houwening. 

I. Bommel — Inn, Hof van Guelder- 
land — once a fortress, was besieged in 
vain by the Spaniards 1599, and taken 
by Turenne 1672. Its fortifications 
were destroyed in 1629. 

The island of Bommel, Bommeler 
Waard, between the Waal and the 
Mouse, which here unite their waters, 
is defended on the E. by Fort St. Andre, 
and on the W. by Fort Loevestein. 

2f posts S. of Bommel lies Hertogen- 
bosch (Bois-le-duc). (See R. 13.) 

rt. Thiel, a pretty town of 3500 
inhab., and birthplace of General 
Chasse, the defender of Antwerp cita- 
del. 66 m. above Rotterdam lies — 

I. Nijmegen. R. 5, p. 71. 

In the height of summer, when tra- 
vellers are numerous, much confusion 
attends the arrival of a Rhenish steamer 
at its place of destination. It is some- 
times difficult to procure accommoda- 
tion of any kind. Those who are suc- 
cessful at Nijmegen have little cause 
for congratulation, as the inns are not 
good, and the charges are shamefully 
high. Sometimes the steam-boat does 
not reach Nijmegen until the gates are 
shut, in which case the passengers are 
compelled to pass the night on board. 

Nijmegen being a frontier town and 
a fortress, passports are demanded from 
strangers as they quit the steamer. 

A diligence sets out every day for 
Cologne after the steamer from Rotter- 
dam has arrived; so that passengers 
who do not wish to stop hero for the 
night may proceed without delay, by 
way of Cleves and Crcfeld on the 1. 
bank of the Rhine, a journey of about 
18 hrs., and a distance of about 88 m. 
(See R. 35.) 

Tho voyage from Nijmegen to Co- 
logne by water, about 125 m., is de- 
scribed in R. 34. 

b. THE LEK FROM ROTTERDAM TO 
ARN11EM. 

The Steamers of the Diisseldorf Com- 
pany take this course -A times a-week in 



84 



ROUTE 11. — THE RHINE : LEK BRANCH. 



Sect. I. 



summer ; but the Lek is often so low 
as to preclude the passage of a steamer 
altogether. 

ft. Krimpen aim de Lek. 

rt. Lekker Kerk. 

rt. Schoonhoven, about 20 m. above 
Rotterdam, is famous for its salmon 
fisheries. One Albert Beiling, during 
the wars of the Hoeks and Kabel- 
jauws (Hooks and Codfish), defended 
(1425) the castle of Schoonhoven against 
the forces of Jacqueline of Bavaria. 
Being at length compelled to surrender, 
he was condemned by his enemies to 
be buried alive. He heard his sentence 
unmoved, and asked for no mitigation 
of it ; but he begged a respite of one 
month, to enable him to take leave of 
his wife and children at Gouda. At the 
expiration of the time he re-appeared to 
suffer his doom with all the fortitude of 
the Boman Regulus. 

I. Meuwpoort, about a mile from 
Schoonhoven, opposite to it. 

rt. Yreeswijk is the landing-place for 
passengers going to Utrecht and Am- 
sterdam. Coaches convey passengers, for 
70 cents, to Utrecht in 1 hr., in time 
for the railroad trains to Amsterdam. 

I. Vianen, which is opposite to 
Vreeswijk, is said to be the Fanum 
Dianas of Ptolemy. It formed part of 
the patrimony of the patriot Count of 
Brederode, who fortified it for the 
Prince of Orange on the outbreak of the 
revolt of the Netherlands. 

Between Vianen and Kuilenburg 
there are sluices in the banks of the 
river, designed solely for laying the 
country under water in case of foreign 
invasion. If they were opened, the in- 
undation would at once spread as far S. 
as the "Waal, as far as Dort to the ~W., 
and to the JSoort in an opposite direc- 
tion. A military inundation of this 
kind is a mode of defence peculiar to 
Holland. It effectually cuts off the 
means of approach from an army either 
by land or water ; it covers both roads 
and canals, leaving an enemy in igno- 
rance of their direction and course ; 
and, while it is deep enough to check 
the march of troops or cannon, it is so 
interrupted by shallows and dykes, as 
to render its navigation by boats equally 
impracticable. 



I. Kuilenburg. Inns : Rose ; Ver- 
gulde Hooft. A town of 3000 inhab., 
formerly a place of refuge for debtors. 

rt. "Wijk by Duurstede, supposed to 
be the Batavodurum of the Romans, 
though the antiquities lately dug up 
belong only to the time of the Franks, 
and do not confirm the supposition. 
The branch of the Rhine which alone 
retains that name to the sea here se- 
parates from the Lek, and flows past 
Utrecht and Leiden to Katwijk, where 
it is now discharged into the ocean by 
means of sluice-gates (p. 41). The Lek 
was originally a canal dug by the Ro- 
mans to unite the Rhine and Maas ; its 
bed became suddenly enlarged by an 
inundation in 839, by which the main 
stream was thrown into it. (Rte. 2.) 

1. Eck and "Wiel, near rt. Amerongen. 
Amerongen itself is situated at a little 
distance from the river. Lord Athlone 
has a seat near here. 

rt. Rheenen (Inn, Konig van Bo- 
heme, bad) is a town of 1600 inhab., 
on the middle branch of the Rhine. 
There is nothing to be seen here but an 
old Gothic church with a handsome 
tower. A large quantity of tobacco is 
cultivated in this district. A little out 
of Rheenen, on the road to Amerongen, 
on the left-hand side, somewhat below 
the road, at the entrance of a meadow, 
under some willow-trees, the English 
traveller will remark the mounds under 
which the bones of some hundreds of 
his countrymen are mouldering. In 
1794 the hospital for the prisoners taken 
in the Duke of York's army was at 
Rheenen, and, the mortality being very 
great, this spot became the cemetery of 
the hospital. 

rt. Wageningen, 14 m. from Arn- 
hem (Inn, Hof van Guelderland, not 
good), an inconsiderable town, of about 
3000 inhab., supposed to be the ad 
Vada of the Romans : it is connected 
with the Rhine by a short canal. On 
the opposite side of the river to "Wagen- 
ingen is a flat district of meadow-land, 
called the island of Betuwe, because 
isolated by the Lek and Waal ; it re- 
tains in its name a memorial of the 
ancient inhabitants of this country, the 
Batavi. 
I. Heteren. 



Holland. 



ROUTE 12. — THE IIIUiNIC: 1JSSEL BRANCH. 



85 



rt. Arnhem. (Route 6.) 

rt. 3 m. above Arnhem the IJssel 
(pron. Eyssel) branches off from the 
Rhine, and flows into the Ztrider Zee at 
Kampen. It is also navigated by steam. 
(Rte. 12.) 

/. Hnisscn. " Near Tollhnis the 
army of Louis XIV. crossed the Rhine, 
l(i 7 2, an exploit much vaunted by the 
French poets (Boileau, &c.) and histo- 
rians of the time, though little risk was 
incurred but that of drowning, as there 
were veiy few, if any, Dutch troops 
immediately on the spot to oppose the 
passage." — /. W. C. The river was 
then much reduced by the drought of 
summer, though not entirely fordable, 
and many regiments had to swim across. 
The Great Conde was here wounded in 
the wrist, and his nephew was killed 
by his side. 

rt. Pannerden. Here the Waal first 
branches out from the main trunk of 
the Rhine, which above this spot flows 
in one undivided stream. (See p. 81.) 

The voyage to Cologne is described 
in Rte. 34. 

ROUTE 12. 

ARNHEM TO KAMPEN, BY THE IJSSEL 
BRANCH OF THE RHINE, THROUGH 
ZU1PHEN AND DEVENTER. 

Steamers 3 times a-week along the 
IJssel, from Arnhem to Kampen. The 
voyage even in descending takes up 1 
day. 

Diligences go several times a-day by 
Zutphcn to Deventer, in 5 hrs. 

The steamer ascends the Rhine about 
2 m. to reach the mouth of the IJssel. 
This was originally a canal formed by 
Drusus, son-in-law of Augustus (Fossa 
Drusiana), to join the old IJssel with 
the Rhine. 

The pretty village of Velp (p. 71) is 
seen among the trees. 

rt. Doesburg (Inn: Heerenloge- 
nient), a fortified town at the conflu- 
ence of the old and new IJssel, 2540 
inhab., was taken from the Spaniards 
and pillaged, 1585, by the English, 
under the Earl of Leicester. 

/. Dieren. Near this is the curious 
old moated house of Middaghten. 



rt. Zutphcn {Inns: Kcizcrskroon ; 
Zwaan), a strong fortress and ancient 
town, 10,500 inhab., at the junction of 
the Berckel with the IJssel. 

The chief Protestant Church (of St. 
"Walburga) is a fine Gothic building 
(1105) ; its tower has been rebuilt since 
1600, when the original one was de- 
stroyed by lightning. "Within are mo- 
numents of the Counts of Zutphen, over 
one of which is hung a Gothic chan- 
delier of iron gilt, and a modern monu- 
ment to the family Van Ileckeren. 
There is a curious Gothic font of copper, 
and the bas-reliefs on the pulpit merit 
notice. In the church is a library of 
old books, many of them fastened to 
the shelves by chains. 

The Roman Catholics and the Ana- 
baptists have churches here. 

The Chimes are placed in the tower 
of the Weighing House : there is an- 
other large square tower called Droge- 
nass. 

It was on the battle-field of Warns- 
feld, a little to the E. of Zutphen, that 
the gallant Sir Philip Sidney received 
his death-wound, Sept. 22, 1586, after 
an action in which the English had sig- 
nally defeated the veteran Spaniards 
under the Marquess of Guasto . Stretched 
on the ground, bleeding and parched 
with thirst, the English hero displayed 
the well-known instance of humanity, 
in desiring that the cup of water in- 
tended for him should be given to the 
dying soldier at his side. 

rt. Deventer. In Rte. 8. 

rt. Katerveer. Coaches go hence to 
Zwollc (p. 73). 

I. Kampen. {Inn, Portheine's, called 
the Dom of Cologne, may be recom- 
mended.) This seaport on the Zuider 
Zee lies at the mouth of the IJssel, 
here crossed by a fine bridge. It has 
about 8000 inhab. Anciently one of 
the most flourishing Hanse Towns, it 
is now utterly without commerce. The 
Town-hall, a genuine Gothic building, 
with statues of Charlemagne, Alexander, 
and of the Cardinal Virtues, and 2 fine 
Churches, bespeak its former prosperity. 
Count Horn, behcadod by Alva, was 
buried here. 

A Steamer goes every day except 
Saturday to Amsterdam, in summer, at 



86 



ROUTE 1 3. — ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP. BREDA. Sect. I. 



f past 1, in correspondence with the 
last train to Eotterdam. 

ROUTE 13. 

ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY BREDA, 
AND BY WATER. 

12§ posts = 62 Eng. m. Diligences 
daily, in 12 hrs. 

Steamers daily, in 1 hrs, by Dort, 
Fort Batz, and the Scheldt. (See p. 81). 

In travelling by land 3 ferries require 
to be crossed, — at Rotterdam, over the 
Maas ; at Dort, over the Merwe ; and 
at Moerdijk, over the Hollands-Diep. 
The ferry-boats are steamers, and are 
very well managed. Steamers also ply 
daily direct from Rotterdam to Dort 
and Moerdijk. 

2^ Dort. In Ronte 12, p. 85. 

I5. At Willemsdorp the borders of 
the Hollands-Diep are reached, an arm 
of the sea, rather than a river, which 
takes 20 min. to cross to Moerdijk. 
Noordhaven is sometimes chosen as the 
place of disembarkation : it is 3 posts 
from Breda. 

2| Breda. Inns: H. de Flanders, 
very good ; Goude Leeuw, or Golden 
Lion; Couronne, comfortable. 

Breda is a fortress on the rivers Merk 
and Aa, whose waters, together with 
the surrounding marshes, render it al- 
most inaccessible to an enemy, but very 
unhealthy. 

The principal Protestant Church has 
a lofty and graceful Gothic tower, in- 
jured by being surmounted by a Dutch 
bulbous spue. "Within it is the Tomb 
of Count Engelbrecht II of Nassau, fa- 
vourite general of the Emp. Charles V., 
and his wife, attributed to Mich. Angelo. 
It resembles in its plan the monument 
in Westminster Abbey of Sir F. de 
Vere. Their effigies, formed of Italian 
alabaster, repose upon elaborately carved 
mats ', while 4 statues of Julius Caesar, 
Regulus, and 2 other classic heroes, in 
a half-kneeling posture, support on their 
shoulders a table of stone, on which lies 
the armour of the prince carved in 
marble. M. Angelo might have made a 
sketch of the design ; but the awkward 
pose of some of the figures, the feeble- 
ness of the anatomical details, the mean- 
ness and angularity of the drapery, and 
the minute finish of some of the acces- 



sories, prove that M. Angelo could have 
had no hand in the execution. There 
are some other monuments which are 
interesting memorials of the days of 
Spanish rule. Their ornaments are 
elegant, and in plataresco style : one of 
Count Henry of Nassau, with kneeling 
figures ; another, bearing the date 1536, 
to the memory of the Sieur de Borgni- 
val, chief engineer to Charles Y. Behind 
the high altar is an altar tomb of the 
Knight of Renesse and his lady. At 
the end of the N. aisle is a fine monu- 
ment to some of the Aschendaal family, 
with a vigorous and excellent relief of 
the Last Judgment. Many of these 
monuments have been injured by vio- 
lence. In the choir is a highly orna- 
mented brass, commemorating William 
of Gaellen, a Dean of the chapter ; and 
curious and well-executed carvings in 
wood, representing monks in ludicrous 
attitudes, intended to satirise the vices 
of the clergy. There is also a very fine 
brass font, the cover of which is raised 
by a crane. 

The old castle was built, 1350, by 
Count Henry of Nassau ; the modem 
Chateau by William, afterwards the 
Third of England. It is a square sur- 
rounded by the waters of the Merk. 
Here is a military academy for infantry, 
cavalry, artillery, and engineers, capable 
of accommodating 192 cadets. It is 
exclusively from this academy that the 
Dutch army is now officered. Here 
are good stables and an ample stud, 
a swimming school, and an extensive 
plateau, with cannon of every calibre, 
which supplies the means of drill ap- 
plicable to each branch of the sendee. 
It contains also a good library, a well- 
stocked model-room, and a small mu- 
seum of arms. (See Quar. Rev., No. 
166, p. 441.) 

Breda was taken from the Spaniards, 
in 1590, bymeans of a singular stratagem 
concerted between a brave veteran cap- 
tain of Prince Maurice's anny, named 
Harauguer, and one Adrian Vanden- 
berg, owner of a barge which supplied 
the garrison with turf for fuel. On 
Thursday, Feb. 26, Harauguer, and 
80 picked soldiers, entered the barge, 
and were carefully covered over vrith a 
cargo of turf. Though the boat had 



Holland. ROUTE 13. — ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY WATER. 



87 



not many milos to go from the place 
where it was laden, it was so much im- 
peded hy contrary winds, and hy the 
frost which had covered the water with 
a thick coat of ice, that the third day 
passed heforo it arrived within ~ league 
of the town. To add to the perils of 
the crew tho vessel sprung a leak; the 
soldiers stood up to their knees in water ; 
and one of them, named Matthias licit, 
hegan to cough so violently that for fear 
he should cause their detection he en- 
treated his companions to run him 
through with his sword. Luckily they 
were not rigorously examined by the 
guard, and the sacrifice of the brave 
soldier was not required. It was not 
till midnight on the 3rd of March (5 
days after they had embarked) that the 
sluice-gates of the citadel were opened, 
and the boat was dragged in through 
the ice by the very garrison who were 
so soon to suffer from its entrance. They 
carried off so much of the turf for their 
use, that the boards which covered the 
concealed band were nearly laid bare ; 
but, by another piece of good fortune, 
they did not inspect the cargo very 
minutely ; and Vandenberg, with con- 
siderable cleverness, contrived by his 
wit and jokes to turn away their atten- 
tion, and, lulling all suspicion, finished 
by making them drunk. As soon as 
they were asleep, Captain Harauguer 
and his soldiers issued forth from their 
miserable retreat; the sentinels were 
killed, and the rest of the garrison, 
terrified at the sudden and unexpected 
attack, abandoned the castle without 
even the precaution of breaking down 
the drawbridge leading from it into the 
town, which was entered a few days 
afterwards by Prince Maurice and his 
army. After several fruitless attempts 
on the part of the Spaniards to regain 
Breda, it was taken in 1625 by Spinola, 
who burnt the famous barge which had 
contributed to its capture by the Dutch 
in 1590, which had been carefully 
preserved by them. The surrender of 
Breda to Spinola has been commemo- 
rated by Velazquez in his finest picture, 
" Las Lanzas," now in the Madrid gal- 
lery. Span, lldbk., 752, 1st. ed. 

Charles II. resided at Breda during 
part of the time of his exile from England. 



About 24 m. from Breda is Bois-le-dxc 
(den Bosch or Hertogenboach), a for- 
tress and chief town of N. Brabant, with 
21,000 inhab. (fun, Goude Lceuw.) 
The Church of St. John (1312) is ono 
of the finest ecclesiastical edifices in 
Holland. It is well preserved, and has 
double aisles and apsidal chapels (dato 
1260-1312), an earlier chapel at tho 
N.W. end, and a Lady-chapel N. of 
the choir. The Stadhuis is surmounted 
by a tower containing a fine set of 
chimes. Half-way to Bois-le-Duc is 
Tilburg [Inn, Goude Leeuw), a town of 
11,700 inhab., possessing extensive cloth 
manufactories. 

2 Grootzundert, the last place in Hol- 
land : examination of passports here by 
the Dutch, and at Wcst-Wesel (custom- 
house) by the Belgian authorities. A 
desolate tract of heath forms the border- 
land of the 2 countries. At Hoogh- 
straeten, a few miles E. of "Wcst-Wesel, 
so called from the Roman high-way 
which passed through it, a handsome 
Church contains monuments to the 
noble family of La Laing, one of whom 
built the steeple, 364 ft. high, in 1546, 
and 12 painted windows. The chateau 
of the La Laings is now the Poor-house 
(Depot de la Mendicite). 

1# Gooring. 

1t=j Brcschat. 

l| Antwerp. In Rte. 22. 



2. ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY WATER. 

Steamers daily in summer. The 
distance is about 80 m. The time 
now taken by the new iron boats be- 
tween Antwerp and Rotterdam is 7 
hrs. ; the return passage is 2 hrs. 
longer, as tho tide does not serve to 
pass the banks, which it does in going, 
and therefore a circuit is obliged to 
be made to avoid them. The voyage 
is preferable to the land journey in fine 
weather ; but the broad estuaries divid- 
ing the islands which form the province 
of Zealand arc nearly as much agitated 
as the open sea by storms. 

After quitting Dort (R. 11) the 
vessel threads a narrow channel, having 
the appearance of an artificial canal, 
called Dordschc Kill, leading into the 
wide estuary of the Hollands-Diep, and 



88 



ROUTE 13. — BERGEN- OP-ZOOM. 



Sect. I. 



Volke Eak, arms of the Maas, flowing 
between the islands of Zealand. The 
places passed on the voyage from Dort 
are S' Gravendeel, Willemsdorp, the 
fortress of Willemstad, forts Buter, 
and Oostgenstplaatz, 2 block -houses 
covered with red-tiled roofs, erected by 
the French to defend the entrance of 
the Hollands-Diep against the English, 
Philipsland, and Stavenis. On the I. 
lies Tholen, and on the rt. the island of 
Schowen, with its port, Ziericksee, 
memorable for the daring exploit of 
the Spaniards, under Eequesens, 1575, 
who forded the channel called Keeten, 
by a passage 6 m. long, and before 
untried, wading for the most part up to 
their necks in water, and in the face 
of a fleet of boats manned by the Zea- 
landers, who annoyed the Spaniards by 
a deadly fire, and actually cut off their 
rear-guard. They thus gained posses- 
sion of the island, and soon after of 
Ziericksee. At Zijp a carriage is sta- 
tioned to convey passengers to or from 
Ziericksee [Inn, Hof van Holland), 
less than an hour's drive ; its square 
tower is conspicuous from the steamer. 
Passengers bound for Flushing (E. 
18), Middelburg, and Goes, are set 
down at Jerensdam. Emerging from 
the narrow channel of Tholen, the 
steamer calls at the jetty of the town 
and fortress of 

Bergen-op-Zoom (Inn, Hof van Hol- 
land), one of the strongest places in 
Holland, considered the masterpiece 
in the art of fortification of Coehorn, 
7500 inhab., situated in a marshy 
country which can easily be laid under 
water. 

Among the numerous sieges and 
attacks which it has endured, the most 
interesting to the English is the attempt 
by Gen. Graham to carry the place by 
storm, on the night of the 8th of March, 
1814, which was nearly successful. 
Two of the 4 attacking columns suc- 
ceeded in establishing themselves on 
the ramparts, with very trifling loss. 
No. 1, the 1. column, attacked- be- 
tween the Antwerp and Waterport 
gates; No. 2 attacked the rt. of the 
New Gate ; No. 7 was destined only 
to draw attention by a false attack near 



the Steinbergen gate; No. 4, the rt. 
column, attacked at the entrance of the 
harbour, which could be forded at low 
water. They were ultimately repulsed, 
by a bold attack of the garrison, with 
very severe loss. — The names of the 
British officers who fell on this occasion 
may be seen in the church recorded on 
a monumental tablet erected by their 
brother officers. In the great Protest- 
ant Gh. is the tomb of Lord Edward 
Bruce, killed in a bloody duel, 1613, 
with Lord Sackville, to fight which 
they came over from England. (Guar- 
dian, Nos. 129, 133.) The church, 
which has suffered greatly, is the rem- 
nant of a fine building. 

A line of posts and branches of trees 
point out to the pilot the very narrow 
channel called de Kreek Bak, close to 
the edge of the extensive sandbank 
called Verdronken, or Drowned Land, 
because overwhelmed by an inroad of 
the sea, and thus cut off from the island 
of Zuid Beveland. "We enter the river 
Schelde abreast of Fort Batz. The de- 
scription of the voyage up the Schelde 
to Antwerp will be found in Ete. 18. 

Travellers going from Antwerp to 
Eotterdam, and wishing to visit Breda, 
should land at Bergen-op-Zoom, drive 
to Breda, and sleep there, and rejoin 
the steamer at Moerdijk the next day. 
(From Moerdijk to Dort in steamer 
1~ kr., Dort to Eotterdam 1A hr.). 
From Antwerp to Fort Batz If hr., a 
delay of about ^ hr. at Fort Batz on 
account of custom-houses : thence to 
Bergen ^ hr. Bergen - op - Zoom is a 
bad place to land at in wet weather ; a 
long jetty and dyke has to be traversed 
before reaching the town. From Ber- 
gen - op - Zoom to Breda is a drive of 
4 hrs. : there is an intermediate post 
station at Eosendaal ; but the landlord 
of the Hof v. Holland, who is the 
postmaster, will furnish a carriage and 
horses which easily perform the whole 
distance. There is much heather-land 
between Bergen-op-Zoom and Breda. 

If the traveller should not find the 
steamer at Moerdijk, he may cross to 
Willemsdorp by the steam-ferry, and 
proceed thence to Dort, where steamers 
going to Eotterdam are easily found. 



Belgium. 



( 89 ) 



Sect. II. 



SECTION II. 



BELGIUM. 



INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 



18. Passports. — 19. Money. — 20. Posting. — 21. Diligences; Hired Carriages; 
Barriers; Roads. — 22. Railroads. — 23. Inns. — 24. General View of Belgium.- 
25. Belgian Cities and Architecture. — 26. Chimes {Carillons). — 27. Works of Art ; 
Schools of Van Eyck and Rubens. 



ROUTES. 



ROUTE * PAGE 

15. Calais to Brussels by Lille 

— Railway 102 

Calais to Coutrai, by Bun- 
kirk and Ypres . . . . 110 
Calais to Ostcnd or Bruges . 114 
London to Antwerp by the 

Schelde 114 

Ghent to Brussels by Alost . 118 
London or Dover to Ostend . 119 
Ostend to Bruges, Ghent, Ter- 
inonde, and Mechlin — 

Railway 120 

Bruges to Courtrai — Rail- 
way. .' 136 

Ghent to Antwerp — Rail- 
way 136 

Antwerp to Turnhout, and 
the Belgian Pauper Co- 
lonies 151 

23. Antwerp to Brussels by Ma- 

lines— -Railw ay . . . . 152 

24. Brussels to Lie'ge by Waterloo 

and Namur. — Descent of 

the Meuse to Maestricht . 162 



16 

17 

18 

19 
20 
21 



21 A. 



22 



22 a. 






ROUTE PAGE 

25. Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle by 

Verviers, and visit to Spa 
— Railway 177 

26. Brussels to Liege by Louvain 

— Railway 182 

27 . Brussels to Aix-la-Chapelle by 

Maestricht 186 

28. Brussels to Namur by Hal, 

Braine le Comte, and Char- 
leroi — Railway . . . . 188 
28a. Charleroi to Morialme — 

Railway 189 

29. Namur to Luxemburg and 

Treves 189 

30. Namur to Dinant and Givet 

by the Meuse 190 

31 . The Ardennes, Dinant to Hans 

sur Lesse, St. Hubert, and 
Bouillon 192 

32. Brussels to Mons and Valen- 

ciennes, on the way to 
Paris — Railway . . . 194 



18. PASSPORTS. CUSTOM-HOUSE. 



The Belgian minister in London issues passports to all who may require them, 
gratis, at his house, 51, Portland Place, between 11 and 3. A passport may be 
obtained from the Belgian Consul in London (beticcen the hours of 12 and 4 only), 
upon payment of 5s. 

Except in the frontier towns, and at Brussels, the capital, passports arc now 
seldom required by the police in Belgium. More strictness is observed since the 
political events of 1848. The under-functionaries of the Belgian police, and 
custom-house officers, often display in their conduct instances of insolence, dila- 
torincss, and neglect of their duties, very annoying to the traveller, and contrasting 



90. 19. money.— 20. posting. Sect. II. 

singularly with the invariahle politeness and punctuality of similar officers in 
Prussia and Austria. 

The search at the Belgian custom-houses, especially on the French and 
German frontier, is strict, and frequently vexatious. Travelling carriages are 
not subject to duty on entering Belgium, when they are accompanied by their 
owners ; when they are new, and not so accompanied, they are subject to an ad 
valorem duty of 7 per cent. 

19. MONEY. 

French money is current throughout Belgium ; indeed the currency of Bel- 
gium has the same coins and divisions as the French. The smaller Dutch coins 
are also met with, and travellers should beware of confounding cents with centimes. 
At Brussels, even in good shops, cents are charged. A cent, being -^ of a guilder, 
is equal to 2 centimes. 

BELGIAN AND FRENCH MONEY. 

1 franc = 100 centimes = 20 sous = 9^d. English. 
Silver coins : — * s. d. 

\ franc = 25 centimes . . = %\ \ English. 

\ ditto = 50 ditto . . . . = 4 : | 

5 ditto = = 40 

Gold coins : — 

Louis d'or = 24 fr =19 

Leopold d'or, Napoleon, or 20 -franc 1 _ .. ~ . ~ 
piece ) 

FOREIGN COINS REDUCED TO FRENCH CURRENCY. 

fr. c. 

English Sovereign = 25 50 

Crown = 6 25 

Shilling = 1 25 

Dutch William = 10 Guilders . = 21 16 

Guilder = 2 15 

Prussian Dollar = 3 75 

Frederick d'or . . . . = 21 00 

Bavarian Florin = 20 pence English = 2 15 

Kron Thaler . . . . = 5 81 

Austrian Florin =2 shillings English= 2 57 

The Bank of Belgium issues notes of the value of 1000, 500, 100, 50, and 20 
francs. The Belgian Chambers have recently passed an act for the withdrawal 
of all gold coin, both Belgian and foreign, from circulation. 

20. POSTING. — BARRIERS AND ROADS. 

Two Belgian or French leagues make a post (equal to nearly 5 miles English, 
'or about 1 German mile). The precise length of the lieue de poste is 3898 
metres = 4263 yds. English = 2 English m. 743 yds. 1600 metres = 1 
English mile. In many places the roads are measured in kilometres. A kilo- 
metre = 1093 yds., or 4 furlongs and 213 yds., or 5 furlongs less 7 yds. ; in round 
numbers § of an English mile. 

Posting in Belgium is arranged nearly upon the old French footing. The 
following tariff is extracted from the " Livre de Poste," published at Brus- 
sels : — 

The charge for each horse per post is 1 fr. 50 centimes, or 30 sous. 
The charge — postilion — 75 centimes, or 15 sous. 



Belgium. 



20. POSTING. TARIFF. 



91 



It is usual to give at least \\ franc per post to the postilion; indeed, it is custom- 
ary with En glish travellers to allow liim 2 francs, or 40 sous, per post. He may, 
however, be' restricted to the sum iixeel by the tariff, when he lias conducted 
himself improperly. (Posting in France is now regulated by kilometres : the 
charges per kilometre are, for 2 horses at 4 sous each, 8 sous for a horse, for a 
third person, 3 sous. Postilion 16 sous.) 

To make a constant practice of giving the French and Belgian postboys 
40 sous apiece appears quite unnecessary. Our countrymen who do this can 
hardly be aware that they are paying at the rate of 4d. a mile (English), in a 
country where the necessaries of life are far cheaper than in England, while 
at home the customary rate of payment for a postilion is only 3d. a mile. This 
extravagant remuneration is, besides, contrary to the express injunction of the 
French " Livre do Poste," which says, — " Lcs voyagcurs conscrvent done la 
faculte de rcstreindre le prix des guides a. 75 centimes, a titre de punition ; et ils 
seront invites par lcs maitres de poste, et dans l'mteret du service, a ne jamais 
depasscr la retribution de 1 fr. 50 centimes par poste." 

The posting regulations allot one horse to each person in a carriage ; but allow 
the traveller, at his option, cither to take the full complement of horses, at the 
rate of 30 sous each, or to take 2 or 3 at 30 sous, and to pay for the rest at 20 sous, 
without taking them. Thus a party of 4 persons in a light britzka may be drawn 
by 2 horses, paying 2 francs extra for the 2 persons above the number of horses ; 
or 3 persons may travel with 2 horses, paying 80 sous for their horses per post. 
Where the carriage is so light as not to require as many horses as there are pas- 
sengers, it is, of course, a saving of 10 sous a post for each horse to dispense with 
them, and it renders unnecessary the use of shafts. 



Tariff for Belgium, Piedmont, Savoy, and part of Switzerland ; allowing 30 sous for 
each Horse, and 40 sous for each Postilion, per post. 



Includes one Postilion at 40 sous 




Includes two Postilions at 40 sous 






per post. 










each 


per post. 




Posts 


Two 


Three 


Four 


Five 


Four 


Five 


Six 


Seven 


Eight 




Horses. 


Horses. 


Horses. 


Horses. 


Horses. 


Horses. 


Horses. 


Horses. 


Horses. 




f. s. 


f. s. 


f. s. 


f. s. 


f. 


s. 


f. s. 


f. s. 


f. s. 


f. s. 


l 

•2 


2 10 


3 5 


4 


4 15 


5 





5 15 


6 10 


7 5 


8 


1 


5 


6 10 


8 


9 10 


10 





11 10 


13 


14 10 


16 


1J 


6 5 


8 2 


10 


11 17 


12 


10 


14 7 


16 5 


18 2 


20 


4 


7 10 


9 15 


12 


14 5 


15 





17 5 


19 10 


21 15 


24 


if 


8 15 


11 7 


14 


16 12 


17 


10 


20 2 


22 15 


25 7 


28 


2 


10 


13 


16 


19 


20 





23 


26 


29 


32 


01 


11 5 


14 12 


18 


21 7 


22 


10 


25 17 


29 5 


32 12 


36 


n i 

-2 


12 10 


16 5 


20 


23 15 


25 





28 15 


32 10 


36 5 


40 


n 


13 15 


17 17 


22 


26 2 


27 


10 


31 12 


35 15 


39 17 


44 


3 


15 


19 10 


24 


28 10 


30 





34 10 


39 


43 10 


48 


'U 
k 


16 5 


21 2 


26 


30 17 


32 


10 


37 7 


42 5 


47 2 


52 


17 10 


22 15 


28 


33 5 


35 





40 5 


45 10 


50 15 


56 


H 


18 18 


24 7 


30 


35 12 


37 


10 


43 2 


48 15 


54 7 


60 


4 


20 


26 


32 


38 


! 40 





46 


52 


58 


64 



The above table supposes that the full quota of horses are attached to the car- 
riage ; the following table is drawn up for cases in which some of the horses are 
dispensed with, and 20 sous paid instead. 



92 



21. MODES OF TRAVELLING.- — 22. RAILROADS. Sect. II. 



Postilions at 40 Sous a Post. 


. 


i Post. 


i Post. 


i Post. 


1 Post. 


2 Posts. 


3 Posts. 


f. s. 


f. s. 


/. s. 


f. s. 


f. 


s. 


f. s. 


2 persons and 2 horses at 
















5 francs per post . . 


1 5 


2 10 


3 15 


5 


10 





15 


3 persons and 2 horses at 
















6 francs per post . . 


1 10 


3 


4 10 


6 


12 





18 


4 persons and 2 horses at 
















7 francs per post . . 


1 15 


3 10 


5 5 


7 


14 





21 


5 persons and 3 horses at 
















8^ francs per post . . 


2 2i 


4 5 


6 7± 


8 10 


17 





25 10 


2 Postilions at 40 Sous each. 










6 persons and 4 horses at 
















12 francs per post . . 


3 


6 


9 


12 


24 





36 



In fixing the numher of horses to he attached the postmaster takes into account 
the nature, size, and "weight of the carriage, and the quantity of luggage ; a 
landau or berlin always requires 3 horses at least, generally 4 ; a chariot "will 
require 3, "while a britzka holding the same number of persons "will need only 2. 

Royal Posts. — Half a post extra is charged upon post-horses arriving at or 
quitting Brussels, and | of a post extra on quitting Ghent, Liege, Mons, and 
Namur. 1 franc is charged for greasing the "wheels. No duty is paid on tra- 
velling carriages in Belgium "when they are accompanied by their owners. 

21. 'TRAVELLING BY DILIGENCES, OR HIRED CARRIAGES. — BARRIERS. — ROADS. 

Diligences are conducted nearly on the same footing as in Holland (§ 4) ; they 
belong to private individuals or companies. They are frequently ill-managed and 
uncomfortable. 

Hired Carriages. — Persons not travelling in their own carriages, and unwilling 
to resort to the diligence, may have a voiture with 2 horses at the rate of 
about 25 francs a-day, and 5 francs to the driver ; but they must, at the same 
time, pay 25 francs per diem back fare, making 50 francs per diem for carriage 
and horses. 

Barrieres. — There is usually a toll-gate every league in Belgium. The tolls 
are fixed at 10 centimes for a 4- wheeled carriage, and 20 centimes for each horse, 
including the return. The barrier is marked by a lamp-post at the road-side. 
It is customary to pay the tolls to the postboy instead of stopping at each, by 
which much time is saved. 

Roads. — Most of the Belgian roads are paved, which renders travelling over 
them very fatiguing, especially for ladies. The effect produced by them on 
carriage wheels is most destructive : a single day's joiuney over these ckaussees 
will sometimes cause them to split and start, unless they are made very stout. 
The postilion should be desired to drive on the unpaved ground at the side as 
much as possible (allez sur le chemin de terre). After rain, however, when the 
side of the road is a mass of mud, and in frosty weather, when the deep ruts are 
as hard as stone, it would be difficult for him to comply. Private carriages are 
now taken on the railroad. 

22. RAILROADS. 

Belgium, from the level surface of the country, is peculiarly well suited for 
railroads, which can be constructed at much less cost hero than in England, and 
have in consequence extended their ramifications through all parts of the king- 



Belgium. 



22. RAILROADS. 



93 



doin. Mechlin is the point at which the 2 main lines intersect — one travers- 
ing Belgium from E. to "W., the other from N. to S. Most of them have 
been constructed at the expense of the government of Belgium, hut with much 
economy. 

The rate of travelling is only 12 or 15 m. an hour ; hut the fares, even in the 
first-class carriages, are less than in England, not exceeding Id. a mile ; indeed, 
travelling in Belgium has hcen rendered exceedingly cheap hy the railways for 
those who have no carriages and very little baggage. Baggage is all weighed 
and charged for separately at a high rate, except such smaU packages as may go 
under the passenger's seat. If the traveller wants to stop at several towns in 
succession, it saves much time and expense of porterage to send on the baggage 
to the farthest point to await his arrival. The delay caused by weighing the 
baggage at every station, which is considerable, owing to there being only one 
weighing machine, is also avoided. A receipt is given for the baggage, referring 
to a number affixed to each article, on producing which at the point of destina- 
tion, the whole is safely delivered to the owner. Baggage sent on to Cologne 
will not be detained at the frontier of Prussia, but will await the arrival of the 
owner at Cologne before being searched. 

The charges for conveying carriages are also high, especially for short distances. 
For a 4-whceled carriage from Ostend to Liege 129 francs; from Antwerp to 
Liege 7 1 francs. It would save expense to send on a carriage under charge of a 
servant at once from Ostend to Liege, and vice versa. 

There are 3 Classes of Railway Carriages: 1. Diligences, or 1st class, roomy, 
and provided with stuffed cushions and glass windows. 2. Chars-a-banc. The 
new carriages of the 2nd class are great improvements upon the old ones : they 
afford ample accommodation, and contain 30 people, have cushioned benches and 
glass windows. The old chars-a-banc were detestable. 3. Waggons have wooden 
benches, and are open above and at the sides in summer, and covered in winter. 

The management of the railroads is better conducted now than at first, but 
still complaints are made of inattention and want of civility on the part of the 
servants. Travellers will act wisely in looking carefully to see that the change 
they receive in paying for their tickets is correct. 

Fares fixed by the Minister of Public Works in the undermentioned places, for the 
Removal of Private Carriages from the Railway Stations to the Interior of the 
Towns. 



Names of 
the 




Number of 


Horses and Postilions. 














Stations. 


1 Horse, 


2 Horses, 


3 Horses, 


4 Horses, 


4 Horses, 




1 Postilion. 


1 Postilion. 


1 Postilion. 


1 Postilion. 


2 Postilions. 




f. c. 


f. c. 


f. c. 


f. c. 


f. c. 


Brussels . . . 


3 50 


5 


6 


7 50 


9 


Antwerp . 


3 


4 


5 25 


6 50 


8 


Bruges 


2 50 


3 50 


4 50 


5 50 


7 


Courtrai . . . 


2 50 


3 50 


4 50 


5 50 


7 


Ghent .... 


3 


4 


5 25 


6 50 


8 


Liege .... 


3 50 


5 


6 


7 50 


9 


Malines . . . 


2 50 


3 50 


4 50 


5 50 


7 


Mons .... 


2 50 


3 50 


4 50 


5 50 


7 


Ostend . . . 


2 50 


3 50 


4 50 


5 50 


7 



The above fares comprise every expense that travellers have to pay, and post- 
masters or postilions have no right to exact more under any pretence whatsoever. 

A party travelling with their own carriage will find the expenses, including 
conveyances to and from the stations, very little below that of posting. 



94 23. INNS. 24. GENERAL VIEW OF BELGIUM. Sect. II. 

As the stations are placed in the suburbs of the different towns, a good deal of 
time must usually be allowed for going to and from the station. The Omnibuses 
which traverse the streets of the towns to collect passengers set out so long 
before the time of the starting of the train, tarry so long in the streets, and arrive 
often so much before the time of starting, that they increase rather than remove 
the evil. At the same time it must be said that it is necessary to reach the 
station about a quarter of an hour before the train starts, at least at the stations 
where there are many passengers, owing to the delay arising from weighing the 
luggage. The fare is ^ a franc, or 1 franc with luggage. 

Most of the Station-houses at the smaller stations are small and inconvenient, 
and without any accommodations. At Brussels, Ghent, and Bruges, however, 
large and handsome stations have been built. At the smaller stations there is 
frequently no separation in the waiting-rooms between the passengers of different 
classes ; and the traveller, locked in until the moment when his train arrives, 
must often endure the society of Belgian boors, redolent of garlic and tobacco. 
The moment of departure and arrival is marked by hurry, crushing, and confu- 
sion. Sometimes, too, a first-class passenger who has paid for his ticket is thrust 
into a second-class carriage, because there is no room for him elsewhere. 

"Whenever the train arrives at a branch rail a portion of the passengers are 
transferred to other carriages. Travellers, therefore, should be attentive to the 
notice given by the conducteur at Bruges, Ghent, Marines, and Mouscron. At 
Mechlin, where four lines converge, the confusion and delay from the crossing of 
trains, the changing of carnages, and shifting of baggage, is very great. Tra- 
vellers must take care, first that they are not run over, and next that they are not 
carried off by the wrong train in a direction opposite to that in which they 
intended to go. 

22 A. VIGILANTES. 

In all the Belgian towns, and at the Railway stations, a species of Cab, called 
Vigilantes, may be hired, which for 1 franc, or, before 7 o'clock in the morning, 
for ltj fr., will convey the traveller and his baggage to any part of the town, and 
release him from the pestilent myrmidons and commissionaires of the inns. The 
tariff of charges is usually hung up in every carriage. 

23. BELGIAN INNS. 

The average charges are, — for a bed, 1J to 2J francs. Dinner, table-d'hote, 2 
to 3 francs. Dinner a. -part, 5 francs. Supper, table-d'hote, 1 franc 50 cent, to 2 
francs. A bottle of Bordeaux (ordinaire) wine, 3 francs. Breakfast, with eggs 
and meat, 1 franc 50 cent. ; tea or coffee and bread and butter, 1 franc to 1 ^ 
franc ; servants 75 centimes to 1 franc each. In the principal inns of the large 
cities the charges are higher : at Brussels they are very dear. Prices have risen 
in Belgium within the last few years. 

24. GENERAL VIEW OF BELGIUM. 

In many respects the preliminary description of Holland (§ 8) will apply to 
Belgium ; the long connection ^between the two people having produced simi- 
larity in the habits of both, though, it must be confessed, there are great distinc- 
tions in character. The northern and eastern provinces of Belgium, in their 
flatness, their fertility, and the number of their canals (§ 10) and dykes (§ 9), 
can be geographically regarded only as a continuation of Holland. 

This portion of Belgium teems with population, so that in traversing it it has 
the appearance of one vast continuous village. The southern provinces, on the 
contrary, have an opposite character ; they consist, in a great degree, of a rugged 
district of hills covered with dense forests, which still harbour the wolf and the 
boar, intersected by rapid streams, and abounding in really picturesque scenery, 
the effect of which is increased by the frequent occurrence of old feudal castles. 
It is but a thinly peopled district ; and its inhabitants, called Walloons, arc a 
rough and hardy race. 



Belgium. 24. general view of Belgium. 95 

The northern provinces are further distinguished from the southern hy their 
language. A line drawn nearly due E. from Gravelines to the Lys, and down 
that river to Mcnin, and from Menin again nearly due E., passing a little to the 
S. of Brussels and Louvain to the Meuse, between Maestricht and Liege, marks 
the boundary of the French and Flemish languages. The people living on the 
N. of this line speak Flemish, those on the S. French. Another, though some- 
what more undulating line, drawn from Menin, passing betwc&i Valenciennes 
and Mons, to the frontier near Chimay, would mark the boundary of the two 
French dialects spoken in Belgium ; the people on the W. of this line speaking 
the Pieard dialect, those on the E. of it the Walloon. The French part of Belgium 
is full of interest to the genealogist and herald. Among works containing 
interesting information may be named, Histoire de la Ville et Chateau de Hny, 
&c, 1G41 ; Chapeauville, Gesta Pontificum Lcodiensium ; Hcnnicourt, Miroir des 
Nobles de la Hesbaie, 1673-1791 ; Delvaux, Diet. Geogr. et Statis. de la Pro- 
vince de Liege ; Delices des Pays-Bas ; Lustre, &c, du Brabant : in Flemish. 
Chronyckle van Holland enz. Ncderlandsche Oudtheden ; Bymchronyk : Hol- 
landsche Jaarboeken. 

According to the census of 1849 the population in Belgium was 4,337,196 ; of 
which about I speak French (the Picard and Walloon dialects), the other § Flemish. 
In the provinces, separately, there is generally a vast excess of cither race or 
language. In respect to race Brabant docs not probably differ much from the 
other provinces, but in respect to language it is an exception to the rule, about 
I of its inhab. speaking French and § either Flemish or some other dialect of the 
Dutch language. The French Belgians are, in general, more civilised than 
their neighbours. Having the immense advantage of the use of a great literaiy 
language spoken by all travellers and foreigners, they keep nearly all the 
shops and hotels, and consequently have a larger intercourse with the world. 
In Belgium every acre maintains 3 men ; wealth, as in France, is pretty equally 
distributed. The class of employers, with their families, counts nearly a third 
of the whole inhabitants. 

The late kingdom of the Netherlands was built up of the fragments of other 
states, and "kept together rather by the pressure of surrounding Europe than by 
any internal principles of cohesion." The Belgians differ from the Dutch in two 
essential points, which are quite sufficient to make them incapable of any per- 
manent union : they are French in inclination and Roman Catholics in religion. 
Their history exhibits none of those striking traits of heroic patriotism which 
have distinguished the Dutch annals ; there is nothing marked in their cha- 
racters ; and though free from that dull plodding patience and cold calculation of 
gain which belong to their phlegmatic neighbours, they arc equally devoid of the 
high-minded courage and ceaseless perseverance which have distinguished them. 
Though lovers of liberty, the Belgians have been dependent on a succession of 
foreign masters, Burgundian, Spanish, Austrian, or French. The mania of the 
Crusades having possessed with especial fervour the nobles of Flanders, they 
were incited to make every species of sacrifice in furtherance of their favourite 
purpose. Lands, political powers, and privileges were parted with, on the spur 
of the moment, to furnish means for their expedition. Their wealthy vassals, 
the burghers of Bruges, Ghent, and other great towns, were thus enabled, by 
their riches, to purchase their independence. They forthwith formed themselves 
into communes or corporations, and began to exercise the right of dcliberatiiig 
on their own affairs; elected bailiffs (echevins) ; obtained a jurisdiction of their 
own, and with it a great seal ; and evinced their sense of these advantages by 
building a huge belfry, or a vast town-hall, as atrophy or temple of their liberties. 
But though the Flemish burghers gained their freedom from their feudal lords 
much sooner than most other nations, they threw away the boon by their petty 
jealousies and quarrels among one another. To xisc the words of the inost dis- 
tinguished living British historian, " Liberty never wore a more unamiable coun- 



96 25. BELGIAN CITIES, AND THEIR ARCHITECTURE. Sect. IL 

tenance than among these hurghers, who ahused the strength she gave them by 
cruelty- and insolence." — Hallam, They have suffered from their faults; their 
government has been subject to perpetual changes, and their country has been 
the scene of war for centuries : a mere arena for combat — the Cockpit of Europe. 
The natural consequence of so many revolutions has been a certain debasement 
of the national character, evinced in the lower orders by ignorance, and a coarse- 
ness of manners which will be particularly apparent to every traveller. 

He that would travel with the full pleasure of historical associations should 
be well read in Froissart ere he visits Belgium ; and when he repairs to Ghent, 
let him not fail to carry Henry Taylor's " Philip van Artevelde " in his hand. 

25. BELGIAN CITIES, AND THEIR ARCHITECTURE. 

" Belgium contains a multitude of interesting examples of architectural skill 
in the middle ages, eminently worthy of careful study, and sufficient, from the 
diversity of the epochs they mark and the character they bear, to illustrate fully 
a history of the rise and progress of Gothic architecture, and the re-birth of 
Italian art." — 67. Godwin jun., F.E.S. 

" It is in the streets of Antwerp and Brussels that the eye still rests upon the 
forms of architecture which appear in the pictures of the Flemish school — those 
fronts, richly decorated with various ornaments, and terminating in roofs, the 
slope of which is concealed from the eye by windows and gables still more highly 
ornamented ; the whole comprising a general effect, which, from its grandeur and 
intricacy, at once amuses and delights the spectator. In fact this rich intermix- 
ture of towers and battlements, and projecting windows highly sculptured, joined 
to the height of the houses, and the variety of ornament upon their fronts, pro- 
duces an effect as superior to those of the tame uniformity of a modern street, as 
the casque of the warrior exhibits over the slouched broad-brimmed beaver of a 
Quaker." — Sir Walter Scott. 

In England, Gothic architecture is almost confined to churches ; in the Nether- 
lands it is shown to be equally suited to civil edifices, and even for dwelling- 
houses. The Town Halls (Hotels de Ville, HaU.es, &c.) at Ypres, Bruges, Ghent, 
Oudenarde, Brussels, and Louvain, are especially worthy of attention : they are 
most perfect examples of the Gothic style ; and it may truly be asserted that 
nowhere else in the whole of Europe are any civic edifices found to approach in 
grandeur and elegance those of Belgium. Amongst the privileges granted to 
the towns when they first acquired communal rights none seemed to have been 
deemed greater, or were more speedily acted upon, than the right of building a 
belfry to call together the citizens, and a hall as a general meeting-place. 

" The domestic architecture of Belgium offers an infinite variety, and offers 
numerous hints for present application. Within a very small circle, in some cases 
even in a single city, examples may be found of the different styles of building 
which have prevailed at intervals, say of 50 years, from the 11th or 12th cent, 
to the present time. At Tournay, a most interesting old town, there are 
several exceedingly ancient houses ; one of an interesting character is situated 
near the Ch. of St. Brice. The whole is of stone and terminates in a gable. The 
windows, about 5 ft. high and 4 ft. wide, are each divided into 2 openings by a 
small column with plain leafed capital. The adjoining front is precisely similar. 
In the Rue des Jesuits there are some houses of the same character, but of a 
somewhat more advanced period. The columns and caps are nearly the same as 
those before mentioned, and the upper part, perhaps 50 or 60 ft. in extent, 
consists wholly of windows and small piers alternately. Ghent and Malines 
display similarly ancient houses. An early advance upon this arrangement would 
probably be the introduction of a transom to divide the windows into -t, and so 
to form a croisee. In the gable of an old house at Ghent, near the Hotel de 
Ville, appears a large pointed window, quite ecclesiastical in aspect, with mul- 



Belgium, 25. Belgian architecture. 26. chimes. 97 

lions, traceried head, and label. A house near the Grand Place at Tournay affords 
a very perfect example of the application of pointed architecture to a street front 
at the beginning of the 16th cent. ; and the Hotel d'Egmont at Ghent shows 
another application of the same style when it was beginning to exhibit symptoms 
of decline ; as also, on a much more elaborate scale, does the well-known Maison 
des Francs Batchers in the same city. 

" Near the Eglise de Chateau at Tournay is a large building, now the Horse 
Infirmary for the artillery, which would seem to be an example at a later stage 
of the decline. It is constructed of red brick and stone, and presents gables, 
pointed-headed windows, other square windows divided by mullions, and large 
dormers in the roof. The mouldings, however, are Italianised ; the discharging 
arches, partly stone and partly brick, which occur even over the pointed-headed 
openings, are made into adornments, and all the ornaments which appear are of 
a mixed design. Later still the line of the gable became altered into a scroll, 
the mullions of the windows disappeared, and the Gothic panelling on the face 
of the building gave place to pilasters and entablatures, elaborately adorned with 
figures, fruit, and foliage, as may be seen in numberless examples remaining in 
most of the towns." — G. Godwin jun., F.B.S. 

The opulent burghers of these cities, once the most flourishing in Europe from 
their commerce and. manufactures, were little inferior to princes in power and 
riches ; and the municipal structures which they founded may compete with the 
ecclesiastical in point of taste, elegance, and magnificence ; they are in fact civic 
palaces, destined either for the residence of the chief magistrate, for the meeting 
of guilds and corporations of merchants and trades, or for assemblies of the mu- 
nicipal government, and sometimes of courts of justice. 

Belgium also possesses noble Gothic cathedrals at Mechlin, Brussels, Louvain, 
Liege, Tournay, and, above all, at Antwerp. The churches are usually open till 
noon, but as the side chapels, the choir, and the finest pictures are locked up, 
it is necessary, even at the open hour, to resort to the Suisse, or sexton, to see 
them. 

Notwithstanding the display of splendour' in individual buildings, it is difficult 
to traverse, in the present day, the deserted and inanimate streets of the great 
Belgian cities without a feeling of melancholy at the aspect of decay which they 
exhibit. They have lost their pre-eminence in commerce and manufactures ; 
their population has shrunk, in many instances, to one-half of its original amount ; 
the active arm of industry is paralysed ; and the looms which once supplied not 
only Europe, but Asia, with the most costly stuffs, are now supplanted by the 
colonies which Flanders itself sent forth into England and Italy. 

Within the last few years large sums have been laid out in repairing and 
restoring the principal buildings in Belgium. Amongst those restored may be 
mentioned St. Gudule and the town-hall at Brussels, the cathedral at Antwerp, 
St. Bavon at Ghent, and the cathedral at Tournajr. 

The characteristics of the cities of Belgium are given in the following verses in 
monkish Latin : — 

" Nobilibus* Bruxella viris, Antverpiaf minimis, 
GandavumJ laqueis, formosis Burga§ puellis, 
Lovanium|| doctis, gaudet MeckliniaH stultis." 

26. chimes (carillons) and clocks. 
Chimes, or cariDons, were invented in the Low Countries ; they have certainly 
been brought to the greatest perfection here, and are still heard in every town. 

* Brussels was the seat of the Court, and therefore the residence of the nobility, 
f Antwerp was, perhaps, at one time the wealthiest city in Europe. 

% The magistrates of Ghent were compelled to wear a halter round their necks by Charles V. 
6 Bruges still retains its reputation for pretty skirls 

II The University of Louvain, in former days, rendered it the resort of the learned. 
^[ The joke about the wise men of Mechlin is explained in the description of that town. 
[N. G.] F 



98 27. WORKS OF ART IN THE LOW COUNTRIES. Sect. II. 

They are of two kinds ; the one attached to a cylinder like the "barrel of an organ, 
which always repeats the same tunes, and is moved by machinery ; the other of 
a superior kind, played by a musician, with a set of keys. In all the great towns 
there are amateurs or a salaried professor, usually the organist of a church, who 
perform with great skill upon this gigantic instrument, placed high up in the 
church steeple. So fond are the Dutch and Belgians of this kind of music, that 
in some places the chimes appear scarcely to be at rest for ten minutes, either by 
day or night. The tunes are usually changed every year. Chimes were in ex- 
istence at Bruges in 1300 — thus the claim of the town of Alost to the invention, 
a.d. 1487, is disposed of. The public clocks in Belgium strike the hour half an 
hour beforehand : thus, at half-past 11 the clock strikes 12. 

27. WORKS OF ART IN THE LOW COUNTRIES.* — THE SCHOOLS OF VAN EYCK AND 

RUBENS. 

It is not in architecture alone that the artists of Belgium have attained an 
eminent degree of perfection : this country has had the rare distinction, at two 
distinct periods, of producing two different Schools of Painting ; the founders of 
which, in both instances, equalled and even surpassed their contemporaries 
throughout the whole of Europe in the excellence of their works. 

The founders of the two schools of painting were Yan Eyck and Bubens. 

The numerous works produced by them and their scholars, still existing in 
Belgium, and nowhere else to be found in equal perfection, form another great 
attraction of a journey through this country, and will be highly appreciated by 
every traveller of taste. 

The brothers Hubert and John Yan Eyck, the founders of the early school, 
are believed to have nourished between 1370 and 1445. 

The painters were enrolled at Bruges as early as 1358 into a guild, which 
enjoyed the same privileges as any, other corporation, and attained the highest 
reputation under Philip the Good, whose court at Bruges was resorted to by men 
of learning and science, as well as artists of the first eminence in Europe, in whose 
society he took great delight. It was in consequence of this patronage that the 
brothers Hubert and John Yan Eyck (the latter sometimes called John of Bruges) 
settled there, and have left behind them so many proofs of then skill as painters, 
some of which still remain at Bruges. In the days of the Yan Eycks the cor- 
poration consisted of more than 300 painters, who were enrolled on the books, 
and formed the most celebrated school of art of the time. 

Yan Eyck, though not, as is sometimes stated, the original inventor of oil 
painting, may, at any rate, be justly termed the father of the art, as he introduced 
some improvement, either in the material or the mode of mixing and applying 
the colours, which produced a new effect, and was immediately brought into 
general use. Although oil painting had been previously practised in Italy, 
Giotto having mixed oil with his colours nearly 200 years before the time of 
Yan Eyck, we find that an Italian artist, Antonello of Messina, made a journey 
to Flanders on purpose to learn this new method ; and it is also recorded that 
Andrea del Castegna, to whom he imparted it, murdered a brother artist through 
whom the secret had been conveyed, in order to prevent the knowledge extending 
further. The depth and brightness of Yan Eyck's colours, which, if they can 
be equalled, are certainly not to be smpassed in the present day, and their perfect 
preservation, are truly a source of wonder and admiration, and prove with what 
rapid strides these artists had arrived at entire perfection in one very important | 
department of painting. 

The works of the brothers Yan Eyck are rare, and scarcely, for this reason. I 
perhaps, appreciated as they deserve in England. Y\ T ith them must be associated I 
Hans Hemling- (or Mending), another artist of the same school, whose name cvcn\ 

* See Kugler's Handbook of Painting; German and Dutch Schools. 



Belgium. 27. VAN EYCK AND RUBENS. 99 

is hardty known except to a very few among us. His masterpieces exist at 
Bruges in the hospital of St. John and in the Academy : no traveller should omit 
to see them. If ho have any love for art, or any pretension to taste, he will not 
fail to admire the exquisite delicacy and feeling which they display, their bril- 
liancy of colouring, and purity of tone. 

In contemplating the works of the early Flemish school, it must he home in 
mind that the artists who attained to such excellence at so early a period had 
none of the classic works of antiquity to guide them, no great masters to imitate 
and study from : the path they struck out was entirely original ; they had no 
models hut nature, and such nature as was before them. Hence it happens that 
their works exhibit a stiffness and formality, and a mcagrcness of outline, which 
arc unpleasing to the eye, combined with a want of refinement which is often 
repugnant to good taste. Still these defects ar,e more than coTinterbalanced by 
truth and force of expression, and not unfrequently by an elevation of sentiment 
in the representation of sacred subjects. The progress of the Flemish School 
may be traced, in an uninterrupted course, through the works of Qucntin Matsys, 
Frans Floris, dc Vos, the Brueghels, and a number of artists little known in 
England, down to Otto Vennius and Rubens. 

School of Rubens. — The ruling spirits of the second epoch of Flemish art were 
Rubens and his distinguished pupil Vandyke. And here we shall again avail 
ourselves of the excellent observations of Sir Joshua Reynolds, being fully con- 
vinced of how great value they will prove to the young traveller. They will 
induce him not to rest satisfied with the name of a painter and the subject of a 
picture ; they will point out to him the beauties, the reason why such works 
are esteemed, and induce him to examine for himself, thus enabling him to form 
his taste, and to carry with him a perception of excellence by which he may 
exercise a critical judgment of painting in general. 

Character of Eubens. — " The works of men of genius alone, where great faults 
are united with great beauties, afford proper matter for criticism. Genius is 
always eccentric, bold, and daring ; which, at the same time that it commands 
attention, is sure to provoke criticism. It is the regular, cold, and timid com- 
poser who escapes unseen and deserves no praise. 

"The elevated situation on which Rubens stands in the esteem of the world 
is alone a sufficient reason for some examination of his pretensions. His fame 
is extended over a great part of the Continent without a rival ; and it may be 
justly said that he has enriched his country, not in a figurative sense alone, by 
the great examples of art which he left, but by what some wotdd think a more 
solid advantage, — the wealth arising from the concourse of strangers whom his 
works continually invite to Antwerp. To extend his glory still further, he gives 
to Paris one of its most striking features, the Luxemburg Gallery ; and if to these 
we add the many towns, churches, and private cabinets where a single picture of 
Rubens confers eminence, we cannot hesitate to place him in the first rank of 
illustrious painters. Though I still entertain the same general opinion both with 
regard to his excellences and defects, yet, having now seen his greatest compo- 
sitions, where ho has more means of displaying those parts of his art in which he 
particularly excelled, my estimation of his genius is, of course, raised. It is only 
in large compositions that his powers seem to have room to expand themselves. 
They really increase in proportion to the size of the canvas on which they are to 
he displayed. His superiority is not seen in easel pictures, nor even in detached 
parts of his greater works, which are seldom eminently beautiful. It docs not 
lie in an attitude, or in any peculiar expression, but in the general effect, — in the 
genius which pervades and illuminates the whole. 

"The works of Rubens have that peculiar property always attendant on 
genius, — to attract attention and enforce admiration in spite of all their faults. 
It is owing to this fascinating power that the performances of those painters with 
which he is surrounded, though 'ihey have, perhaps, fewer defects, vet appear 

f2 



100 27. CHARACTER OF RUBENS. Sect. II. 

spiritless, tame, and insipid ; such as the altar-pieces of Crayer, Schut, Segers, 
Huysum, Tyssens, Van Balen, and the rest. They are done by men whose 
hands, and indeed all their faculties, appear to have been cramped and confined ; 
and it is evident that everything they did was the effect of great labour and 
pains. The productions of Eubens, on the contrary, seem to flow with a free- 
dom and prodigality, as if they cost him nothing ; and to the general animation 
of the composition there is always a correspondent spirit in the execution of the 
work. The striking brilliancy of his colours, and their lively opposition to each 
other ; the flowing liberty and freedom of his outline ; the animated pencil with 
which every object is touched, — all contribute to awaken and keep alive the 
attention of the spectator ; awaken in him, in some measure, correspondent sensa- 
tions, and make him feel a degree of that enthusiasm with which the painter was 
carried away. To this we may add the complete uniformity in all the parts of 
the work, so that the whole seems to be conducted and grow out of one mind 
everything is of a piece and fits its place. Even his taste of chawing and of 
form appears to correspond better with his colouring and composition than if he 
had adopted any other manner, though that manner, simply considered, might 
have been better. It is here, as in personal attractions, there is frequently found 
a certain agreement and correspondence in the whole together, which is often 
more captivating than mere regular beauty. 

" Eubens appears to have had that confidence in himself which it is necessary 
for every artist to assume when he has finished his studies, and may venture in 
some measure to throw aside the fetters of authority ; to consider the rides as 
subject to his control, and not himself subject to the rules ; to risk and to dare 
extraordinary attempts without a guide, abandoning himself to his own sensa- 
tions, and depending upon them. To this confidence must be imputed that 
originality of manner by which he may be truly said to have extended the limits 
of the art. After Eubens had made up his manner, he never looked out of 
himself for assistance : there is, consequently, very little in his works that appears 
to be taken from other masters. If he has borrowed anything, he has had the 
address to change and adapt it so well to the rest of his work that the thief is not 
discoverable. 

" Besides the excellency of Eubens in these general powers, he possessed the 
true art of imitating. He saw the objects of nature with a painter's eye ; he saw 
at once the predominant feature by which every object is known and distin- 
guished ; and as soon as seen, it was executed with a facility that is astonishing : 
and, let me add, this facility is to a painter, when he closely examines a picture, 
a source of great pleasure. How far this excellence may be perceived or felt by 
those who are not painters I know not : to them certainly it is not enough that 
objects be truly represented ; they must likewise be represented with grace, which 
means here that the work is done with facility and without effort. Eubens was, 
perhaps, the greatest master in the mechanical part of the art, the best workman 
with his tools, that ever exercised a pencil. 

" This power, which Eubens possessed in the highest degree, enabled him to 
represent whatever he undertook better than any other painter. His animals, 
particularly lions and horses, are so admirable, that it may be said they were 
never properly represented but by him. His portraits rank with the best works 
of the painters who have made that branch of the art the sole business of their 
lives ; and of these he has left a great variety of specimens. The same may be 
said of his landscapes ; and though Claude Lorraine finished more minutely, a s 
becomes a professor in any particular branch, yet there is such an airiness and 
facility in the landscapes of Eubens, that a painter would as soon wish to be the 
author of them as those of Claude, or any other artist whatever. 

" The pictures of Eubens have this effect on the spectator, that he feels him- 
self in nowise disposed to pick out and dwell on his defects. The criticisms 
which are made on him are, indeed, often unreasonable. His style ought nol 



Belgium. 27. character of rubens. 101 

more to be blamed for not having the sublimity of Michael Angelo, than Ovid 
should be censured because he is not like Virgil. 

" However, it must be acknowledged that he wanted many excellences which 
would have perfectly united with his style. Among those we may reckon beauty 
in his female characters ; sometimes, indeed, they make approaches to it ; they 
are healthy and comely women, but seldom, if ever, possess any degree of ele- 
gance : the same may be said of his young men and children. His old men 
have that sort of dignity which a bushy beard will confer ; but he never pos- 
sessed a poetical conception of character. In his representations of the highest 
characters in the Christian or the fabulous world, instead of something above 
humanity, which might fill the idea which is conceived of such beings, the spec- 
tator finds little more than mere mortals, such as he meets with every day. 

" The incorrectness of Rubens, in regard to his outline, oftcner proceeds from 
haste and carelessness than from inability : there are in his great works, to which 
he seems to have paid more particular attention, naked figures as eminent for 
their drawing as for their colouring. He appears to have entertained a great 
abhorrence of the meagre, dry manner of his predecessors, the old German and 
Flemish painters ; to avoid which, he kept his outline large and flowing : this, 
earned to an extreme, produced that heaviness which is so frequently found in 
his figures. Another defect of this great painter is his inattention to the foldings 
of his drapery, especially that of his women ; it is scarcely ever cast with any 
choice of skill. Carlo Maratti and Rubens arc, in this respect, in opposite 
extremes : one discovers too much art in the disposition of drapery, and the 
other too little. Rubens's drapery, besides, is not properly historical ; the 
quality of the stuff of which it is composed is too accurately distinguished, 
resembling the manner of Paul Veronese. This drapery is less offensive in 
Rubens than it would be in many other painters, as it partly contributes to that 
richness which is the peculiar character of his style, which we do not pretend 
to set forth as of the most simple and sublime kind. 

" The difference of the manner of Rubens from that of any other painter 
before him is in nothing more distinguishable than in his colouring, which is 
totally different from that of Titian, Correggio, or any of the great colourists. 
The effect of his pictures may be not improperly compared to clusters of flowers : 
all his colours appear as clear and as beautiful ; at the same time he has avoided 
that tawdry effect which one would expect such gay colours to produce ; in this 
respect resembling Barocci more than any other painter. "What was said of an 
ancient painter may be applied to those two artists, — that their figures look as if 
they fed upon roses. 

" It would be a curious and a profitable study for a painter to examine the 
difference, and the cause of that difference, of effect in the works of Correggio 
and Rubens, both excellent in different ways. The difference, probably, would 
be given according to the different habits of the connoisseur : those who had 
received their first impressions from the works of Rubens would censure Cor- 
reggio as heavy ; and the admirers of Correggio would say Rubens wanted 
solidity of effect. There is lightness, airiness, and facility in Rubens, his advo- 
cates will iirge, and comparatively a laborious heaviness in Correggio, whose 
admirers will complain of Rubens's manner being careless and unfinished, whilst 
the works of Correggio are wrought to the highest degree of delicacy ; and what 
may be advanced in favour of Correggio' s breadth of light will, by his censurers, 
be called affected and pedantic. It must be observed that we are speaking solely 
of the manner, the effect of the picture ; and we may conclude, according to the 
custom in pastoral poetry, by bestowing on each of these illustrious painters a 
garland, without attributing superiority to either. 

" To conclude, — I will venture to repeat, in favour of Rubens, what I have 
before said in regard to the Dutch school (§ 14), — that those who cannot see 
the extraordinary merit of this great painter, either have a narrow conception of 



102 



ROUTE 15. — CALAIS TO BRUSSELS. 



Sect. II. 



the variety of art, or are led away by the affectation of approving nothing but 
what comes from the Italian school." — Sir Joshua Reynolds. 

Belgium possesses at the present day a School of Living Painters, whose works 
have high claims to attention, and may be seen at the yearly exhibitions at 
Ghent, Antwerp, Brussels, as well as in the palaces, museums, and churches of 
the principal towns. The historical pictures of Wappers, de Keyzer, Biefve, 
Maes, Gallait, Brakelaer, the animals of Verboekhoven, the woody landscapes of 
Hellemans, are worthy of being placed by the side of the best productions of any 
existing school. 



ROUTES THROUGH BELGIUM. 



EQUTE 15. 

CALAIS TO BRUSSELS BY LILLE. — RAIL- 
WAY. 

Many persons, especially in the winter 
season, prefer the shortest sea-voyage 
between England and the continent, on 
which account the following route is 
given here. Besides which, Calais is 
now connected by railway with Brus- 
sels and all the principal towns of 
Belgium. 

Calais. — Inn ; H. Dessin ; good. 
The bedroom in which the author of 
the "Sentimental Journey" slept is 
still marked Sterne's Boom ; and that 
occupied by Sir Walter Scott is also 
ticketed with his respected name. — 
Quillac's Hotel ; good. — Hotel Meurice 
(no connection with the house of the 
same name at Paris) ; tolerably clean 
and good. The preference usually 
given to Boulogne has diminished the 
custom of the hotel-keepers, and they 
have sought to indemnify themselves by 
an increase of prices. 

Duty on Carriages. — Every carriage 
taken into France, unaccompanied by 
a certificate of its being of French 
manufacture, is subject to a deposit of 
a third of its value ; if the carriage is 
re-exported within 3 years, f of the 
deposit is repaid. This repayment may 
be obtained at any of the frontier cus- 
tom-houses. If the carriage is not 
new, and is laden with luggage, and 
accompanied by the owner, and is to 
be taken out of the country within 6 
days, it is exempted from this deposit 
of a third of its value. This remis- 
sion, however, can only be obtained 
on condition that some respectable 



French householder will guarantee that 
the carriage shall quit France within 
the 6 days specified. The landlord of 
the inn at which the traveller puts up 
in Calais will effect this arrangement 
for him ; but as he subjects himself to 
a penalty of a very large amount in 
case the above condition is not com- 
plied with, he requires the traveller to 
sign an undertaking to indemnify and 
hold him harmless in case of failure. 
An order to procure this remission of 
duty, issued by the French custom- 
house, and called " acquit a caution" 
costs 5 fr., and must be delivered up on 
passing the French frontier. In going 
from Calais to Brussels by railway this 
must be done either at Lille or Valen- 
ciennes. 10 francs is the common 
charge for landing or shipping a 4- 
wheeled carriage. 3 francs a head is 
the regulation charge when passengers 
are landed in a boat. 

Calais has 12,508 inhab. ; % is a 
fortress of the 2nd class, situated in a 
barren and unpicturesque district, with 
sandhills raised by the wind and the 
sea on the one side, and morasses on 
the other, contributing considerably to 
its military strength, but by no means 
to the beauty of its position. "Within 
the last few years it has been re-for- 
tified, and the strength of its works 
greatly increased, especially to the sea- 
ward. An English traveller of the 
time of James I. described it as "a 
beggarly, extorting town ; monstrous 
dear and sluttish." In the opinion of 
many this description holds good down 
to the present time. The harbour, 
lately improved and lengthened by 282 
yards since 1830, is not so deep as that 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 15. CALAIS. 



103 



of Boulogne. Passengers must some- 
times land in boats, and wait for their 
baggage until the steamer can enter. 
Except to an Englishman Betting his 

foot for the first time on the Continent, 
to whom everything is novel, Calais, 
has little that is remarkable to show. 
After an hour or two it becomes tire- 
some, and a traveller will do well to 
quit it as soon as he lias cleared his 
baggage from the custom-house, and 
procured the signature of the police to 
his passport, which, if he he pressed for 
time, will he done almost at any hour 
of the day or night, so as not to delay 
his departure. It is necessary to he 
aware of this, as the commissionaires 
of the hotels will sometimes endeavour 
to detain a stranger, under pretence of 
not being able to get his passport signed. 
The owner of the passport must repair 
to the police-office himself to have it 
vise. 

Travellers landing at a French port, 
and not intending to go to Paris, hut 
merely passing through the country, as 
on the route to Ostend or Brussels, are 
not compelled to exchange their pass- 
port for a passe provisoirc, hut merely 
require the vise of the authorities at 
Calais to allow them to proceed on 
their journey. Persons unprovided with 
a passport may procure one from the 
British Consul for 4s. 6d. 

The Pier of Calais is an agreeahlc 
promenade, nearly ~ m. long. It is 
decorated with a pillar, raised to com- 
memorate the return of Louis XVIII. 
to France, which originally bore this 
inscription :— " Le 24 Avril, 1814, S. M. 
Louis XVIII. debarqua vis-a-vis dc 
cctte colonne, ct fut enfin rendu a 
l' amour dee Francais ; pour enperpetucr 
le souvenir la villc de Calais a eleve ce 
monument." " As an additional means 
of perpetuating this remembrance, a 
brazen plate had been let into the 
pavement upon the precise spot where 
his foot first touched the soil. It was 
the left; and an English traveller 
noticed it in his journal as a sinistrous 
omen, that when Louis le Desire, after 
his exile, stepped on France, he did not 
put the right foot foremost." — Quart. 
Rev. At the last revolution but one, 

viz. that of July, 1830, both inscription 



and footmark were obliterated, and the 
pillar now stands u monument merely 
of the mutability of French opinions 
and dynasties. 

The principal gate leading from the 
sea-side into the town is that figured 
by Hogarth in his well-known picture. 
It was built by Cardinal Richelieu, 1 635. 

No one needs to be reminded of the 
interesting incident:; of the siege of 
Calais by Edward III., which lasted 
11 months, and of the heroic devotion 
of Eustace de St. Pierre and his 5 
companions. Few, however, are aware 
that the heroes of Calais not only went 
unrewarded by their own king and 
countrymen, but were compelled to beg 
their bread in misery through France. 
Calais remained in the hands of the 
English more than 200 years, from 
1347 to 1558, when it was taken by 
the Duke de Guise. It was the last 
relic of the Gallic dominions of the 
Plantagenets, which, at one time, com- 
prehended the half of France. Calais 
was dear to the English as the prize 
of tli3 valour of their forefathers, rather 
than from any real value it possessd. 

The English traveller should look at 
the Hotel de Guise, originally the guild- 
hall of the mayor and aldermen of the 
" Staple of Wool," established here by 
Edward III.', 1363. It has many 
vestiges of English Tudor architecture. 
Henry VIII. used to lodge in it. 

In the great Market Place stands the 
Hotel de Ville (Town Hall). In it arc 
situated the Police Offices. In front of 
it arc placed busts of St. Pierre ; of 
the Due de Guise, surnamed le Bala- 
fre, who conquered the town from the 
English ; and of the Cardinal dc Riche- 
lieu, "who built the citadel on the "W. 
of the town ; above it rises a belfry, 
containing the chimes. In the same 
sqiiarc is a tower, which serves as a 
landmark by day and a lighthouse by 
night, to point out to sailors the en- 
trance of the harbour. 

The principal Church was built at the 
time when the English were masters of 
Calais. It is a tine church, in the early 
Gothic style ; a modern circular chapel 
has been thrown out behind the choir. 
It is surmounted by a stately tower and 
short steeple, which merit notice, 



104 



ROUTE 15. — CALAIS TO LILLE. 



Sect. II. 



Lady Hamilton (Nelson's Emma) is 
buried in the public cemetery outside 
the town, on the road to Boulogne ; she 
died here in great misery. 

The walls round the town and the 
pier are admirable promenades, and com- 
mand a distinct view of the white cliffs 
of England— a tantalizing sight to the 
English exiles, fugitives from creditors 
or compelled from other causes to leave 
their homes; a numerous class both 
here and at Boulogne. There are many 
of our countrymen besides, who reside 
merely for the purpose of economising ; 
so that the place is half Anglicised, and 
our language is generally spoken. The 
number of English residents in and 
about Calais amounted, before the 
French revolution of 1848, to nearly 
5000. There is an English chapel, Bue 
des Pretres; service on Sundays, 11 
a .m. and 3 p.m. 

There is a small theatre here. 

Calais is one of those places where 
the fraternity of Couriers have a station. 
Travellers should be cautioned not to 
engage one unless the landlord of an 
hotel, or some other respectable and 
responsible person, give him a character 
derived from personal knowledge ; as 
many of these couriers remain at Calais 
only because some previous act of mis- 
conduct prevents them showing their 
faces on the opposite side of the Channel. 
The inn-yards are generally well stocked 
with carriages to be let or sold; they 
are mostly old and rickety vehicles, and 
the hire demanded for them nearly 
equals that for which an excellent car- 
riage may be obtained in London. 

Steamboats go twice every day to 
Dover, varying their departure to suit 
the time of high water. The new Eng- 
lish steamers usually make the voyage 
in about 2 hours. Steamers go direct 
to London, several times a week, in 10^ 
or 12 hours. 

Calais to Brussels. 

In going from Calais to Brussels, the 
traveller, on leaving Lille, may proceed 
by railway to Brussels, either (a) by 
Douai, Valenciennes, Mons, and Braine 
le Comte, 162kilom. = 101| m. ; or (b) 
by Courtrai, Ghent, and Mechlin, 150 
kilom. = 93'| m. ; or (c) by Tournay, 



Ath, and Braine le Comte, 134 kilom. 

= 84 m. 

Calais to Lille, 104 kilom. = 65 m. 

The station is at the end of the pier, 
close to the gate. 

2-5 St. Pierre Stat. 

10*9 Ardres Stat., a small fortress on 
the canal named after it. Between 
Ardres and Guisnes, a little to the W. 
of the road, took place, in 1520, the 
meeting between Henry VIII. and 
Francis I. The spot was called the 
Field of the Cloth of Gold, from the cloth 
of gold with which the tents and pa- 
vilions of the monarchs and their suites, 
consisting of 5696 persons, with 4325 
horses, were covered. 

7 • 6 Audruicq Stat. 

11-5 WattenStat. 

8*7 St. Omer Stat. — Inns: L'An- 
cienne Poste ; Grande Ste. Catherine. 

A 3rd-rate fortress, whose strength 
arises more from the marshes which sur- 
round it, and the ease with which three- 
fourths of its circuit can be flooded by 
the river Aa, than from its fortifications. 
It is a dull place, with 20,000 inhab. 

Two ecclesiastical buildings are 
worthy of notice. 

The Cathedral, at the upper end of 
the Bue St. Bertin, is a fine building, 
showing the transition from the round 
to the pointed style. The E. end is a 
good example of a polygonal termina- 
tion, with projecting chapels. The in- 
terior is good. The small Lady Chapel 
has been recently decorated. 

At the opposite end of the same street 
stand the scanty remains of the famous 
Abbey Church of St. Bertin, once the 
noblest Gothic monument of French 
Flanders. Its destruction has been per- 
petrated since 1830. At the outbreak of 
the last revolution but two (1792) the 
monastery was suppressed : the Conven- 
tion spared it ; and though, under the 
Directory, it was sold for the materials, 
unroofed, and stripped of its woodwork 
and metal, yet its walls remained com- 
paratively uninjmed, until the magis- 
trates, a few years ago, pulled it down 
in order to give some unemployed work- 
men something to do. The fragment 
remaining consists of a stately tower, 
built 1431-1461, displaying the orna- 



Belgium. 



15. — ST. omer. lillp:. 



105 



merits of florid Gothic in the mutilated 
panelling on its walls, and bits of tra- 
cery in its windows ; a small portion of 
the nave remains attached to it. The 
tower has been propped up by an ugly, 
ill-contrived buttress of masonry. The 
town is well seen from the top, but there 
is nothing else of interest in the view. 
Within the walls of the Abbey of St. 
Bertin the feeble Childeric III., the last 
of the rots fcrineans of the Merovingian 
race, passed the last 4 years of his 
life, and died in 754. Here, also, Becket 
sought refuge when a fugitive from 
England. 

A seminary for English and Irish 
Catholics exists here : it succeeded the 
celebrated Jesuits' College, founded in 
1596, by Father Parsons, for English 
refugee priests. Many of the intriguers 
against Queen Elizabeth, and of the con- 
spirators in the Gunpowder Plot, were 
broxight up here. Daniel O'Connell was 
educated here for the priesthood. At 
present there are only 15 or 20 students. 
About 400 English reside here. English 
Chapel, Rue du Bon Pasteur : Sunday, 
11 and 3. 

10-3 Eblinghem Stat. 

10 Hazebrouck Stat. Here the branch 
from Dunkirk comes in, and a railway 
is to be carried hence through Bcthune 
to Tampoux, a subiub of Arras (54 
kilom.). 

6 • 3 Strazcele Stat. 

8 • 6 Bailleul Stat. — Inn : Faucon. 
1 • 9 Steenwerck Stat. 

9 • 5 Armentieres Stat. 

7 • 1 Perenchies Stat. 

9-3 Lille (Flem. Rijssel) Stat. — 
Tans : H. de 1' Europe ; good, but very 
dear— de Bellevue — du Commerce, b. 

This city, of 63,693 inhab., is im- 
portant both as a fortress of the first 
order for its strength, forming the cen- 
tral point of the defence of France on 
her northern frontier, and as a populous 
and industrious seat of manufacture, 
ranking seventh among the cities of 
France. It is chef-lieu of the Dept. du 
Nord, and was formerly capital of French 
Flanders. The streams of the Haute 
and Basse Deide traverse the town, till- 
ing its moats and turning the wheels of 
its mills ; and they are connected by a 
canal, by means of which the country 



for 1^ m. around the walls can be laid 
under water. 

There arc no fine public buildings 
proportioned to the size and wealth of 
the city ; its monuments have been 
levelled by bomb-shells, and its objects 
of interest for the passing traveller, 
unless he be a military man, are few, as 
may be judged of by the following 
enumeration : — 

Its Citadel is considered a masterpiece 
of the skill of Vauban, who was go- 
vernor of it for many years. It is a 
regular pentagon, furnished with all the 
accessories which engineering skill can 
suggest, especially since the siege of 
1792, and so strong, because commanded 
by no point, and capable of isolation by 
breaking the canal dykes, and filling its 
wide moats, that it is deemed impreg- 
nable. A great deal of misery, how- 
ever, and enormous destruction of pro- 
perty and injury to agriculture, would 
follow an inundation. The citadel is 
separated from the town by the Espla- 
nade, a wide drilling-ground, which 
serves also as a public walk, being planted 
with trees and traversed by the canal. 
Lille was captured from the Spaniards 
by Louis XIV. in 1667. At different 
periods, and under different masters, it 
has stood seven distinct sieges ; the one 
most memorable for an Englishman was 
that by the allied armies of Marlborough 
and Eugene, in 1708, of three months' 
duration, during which the war was not 
merely waged above ground, but the 
most bloody combats were fought below, 
the surface between the miners of the 
opposite armies, each endeavouring to 
sap and undermine the galleries of his 
opponent. Boufncrs, the French com- 
mander, after a masterly defence, was 
compelled to capitulate, but upon the 
most honourable terms. 

The Hotel de Ville was anciently the 
palace of the Dukes of Burgundy. It 
was built by Jean Sans-Pexir, 1430, and 
inhabited by the Empr. Charles V. It 
is a quaint rather than a handsome edi- 
fice, in the late Gothic style, but it has 
a prettily groined staircase in one of its 
tourellcs, and a chapel. One division 
of the building, appropriated to a school 
of art, contains a most interesting and 
valuable collection of drawings by old 

f3 



106 



ROUTE 15. — LILLE TO BRUSSELS. 



Sect. II. 



masters, including 44 by Raphael, others 
by Masaccio, Fra Bartolomeo, and a few 
(architectural) by Mich. Angelo, well 
worthy the inspection of all who take 
an interest in art. They were left 
to the city by Chevr. Wicar. Though 
not publicly shown except on Sunday, 
the Custode will admit artists and stran- 
gers of respectability at other times. 

The town also possesses a Muse'e, 
where, among a number of bad pictures, 
is one by Rubens, St. Catherine rescued 
from the Wheel of Martyrdom, painted 
for a church in the town. St. Cecilia 
and St. Francis are by Arnold de Vuez 
(a native artist of considerable merit, 
born 1642) ; and there is a series of 
curious old portraits of the Dukes of 
Burgundy and Counts of Flanders. 

The principal Church (St. Maurice) is 
in the Gothic style of the 16th cent, 
resting on slender piers, but is not very 
remarkable. 

The huge storehouses for corn, at the 
extremity of the Rue Royale, a street 
nearly a mile long, deserve notice. 
There are some very handsome shops in 
the Rue Esquirmoise. 

The tall chimneys of numerous mills, 
even within the walls, announce the 
active industry which is working here, 
and show the unusual combination of a 
fortress and manufacturing town ; while 
the country around, and indeed a large 
part of the Departement du Nord, is like 
a hive in population and activity, not 
unworthy of being compared with parts 
.of Lancashire and the West Riding. 
The chief manufacture is that of flax 
(which is cultivated in the vicinity), 
and is spun into ordinary thread, and 
twisted to form the kind called Lille 
thread, by old-fashioned machines moved 
by the hand ; besides which much linen 
is woven here. In the spinning of cot- 
ton Lille is a formidable rival of the 
English. The making of tulles and 
cotton lace has fallen off. The extrac- 
tion of oils from colza and the seeds of 
rape, poppies, linseed, &c, and the 
manufacture of sugar from beetroot, are 
very important, having given a great 
impulse to agriculture, as well as em- 
ploying many hands and hundreds of 
windmills. 



Lille to Brussels (a), l62kilom. — 
lOlj Eng. m. 

12 Seclin Stat. 

8 Carvin Stat. 

6 Leforest Stat. 

Douai {Inns : H. de Flandres — du 
Commerce) is a town of 17,501 inhab., 
surrounded by old fortifications, seated on 
the Scarpe, defended by a detached fort 
about l^m. distant on the 1. bank. It is 
the least thriving place in the Dept. du 
Nord, and appears to be falling off in 
population ; and though it covers more 
ground than Lille, does not contain half 
as many inhab. Like the Flemish 
towns, it has a picturesque Beffroi in its 
market-place, rising above the Gothic 
Hotel de Ville, built at the end of the 
15th cent. It possesses a library of 
30,000 vols., a collection of pictures, and 
contains one of the 3 royal cannon foun- 
dries in France. 

The college or seminary of Douai, 
founded in 1569 by an Englishman, 
Cardinal Allen, has educated Roman 
Catholic priests for England and Ireland 
almost continuously from that time. 
O'Connell studied here. There is a con- 
siderable trade in flax here. Every 
year, in the early part of July, a curious 
procession parades the streets of Douai, 
consisting of a giant of osier, who is 
called Geant Gayant, dressed in armoxu - , 
30 ft. high, attended by his wife and 
family, of proportionate size ; the giant 
doll is moved by 8 men enclosed within 
it. 

Montigny Stat. 

Sormain Stat. 

Wallers Stat. 

Raismes Stat. 

Valenciennes Stat. 

Valenciennes {Inns : La Poste ; H. 
des Princes, very good, comfortable, and 
newly furnished — J. M. ; Le Canard ; 
La Biche ; La Cour de France), a for- 
tress of the second class, with a strong 
citadel constructed by Vauban, is a dark 
and ill-built town, lying on the Schelde, 
and has a population of 22,000 souls. 
In 1793 it was taken by the Allies, 
under the Duke of York and General 
Abercromby, after a siege of 84 days 
and a severe bombardment, which de- 
stroyed a part of the town: it was 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 15. — LILLE TO BRUSSELS. 



107 



yielded bark next year. In the grand 
square, or Place d' Amies, are situated 
the Hotel de Ville, a fine building, half 
Gothic half Italian in style, built 1612, 
and containing 3 pictures by Rubens (?), 
brought from the Abbey of St. Amand ; 
the Bcffroi, 170 ft. high, built 1287, fell 
1 8 1-3, and caused a serious loss of life ; 
the Theatre. The Church of St. Gery is 
the principal one. The celebrated Va- 
lenciennes lace is manufactured here, 
and a considerable quantity of fine 
cambric. This is the birthplace of 
Watteau, the painter ; of Froissart, the 
historian ; and of the minister D' Ar- 
genson. 

On entering France passports must 
be delivered up here, and on quitting 
the country they are strictly examined 
by the police. 

The country around Valenciennes 
offers no picturesque beauty ; the rivers 
are sluggish, and have flat, uninterest- 
ing banks. 

For the railway hence to Brussels, 
see Etc. 32. 

Lille to Brussels (b), 150 kilom. = 
93| Eng. m. 

9 Eoubaix Stat. This industrious 
town, of 24,000 inhab., has considerable 
cotton manufactories. Near it the 
English, under the Duke of York, met 
with a severe defeat from the French 
under Pichegru, May 18, 1794, losing 
1000 killed, 2000 prisoners, and 60 
cannon. 

3 Tourcoing Stat. This town, with 
20,000 inhab., is famed for its manufac- 
ture of table linen. 

5 Mouscron Stat. Here is the Bel- 
gian custom-house, and the junction of 
the railway from Tournay. 

12 Courtrav (see Rte. 16). 

6 Haerlebeke Stat. 

9 Waereghem Stat. 4 m. N.W. of 
this is the village of Roosbecke, near 
which Philip van Artevelde, the brewer 
of Ghent, was defeated, in 1382, by the 
French, and, with 20,000 of his country- 
men, perished in the battle. — Sec Tay- 
lor's Philip van Artevelde. 

5 Olsene Stat. On Sun., Mon., & Fri. 

7 Deynze Stat. This town (4000 in- 
hab.) is situated on tbe 1. bank of the Lys. 
On the opposite bank, between the rail- 



road and the river, is Peteghcm. The 
old castle here was the residence of the 
French kings of the second race. A 
carnage may be hired at Deynze to 

\Omlenarde (Flem. Audenaerde). — 
Inns: Castelrij ; Lion d' Or ; 1 2 m. from the 
railway. It is a town of 5670 inhab., 
on the Schelde, containing one of the 
handsomest Town Halls in the Nether- 
lands, though small in size, built 1525- 
30, in the flamboyant Gothic style. In 
front runs an arcade of great elegance, 
supporting a balcony, above which rises 
a tower not unlike that of Brussels, but 
smaller. The entrance to the Council 
chamber is a beautiful specimen of wood 
carving in the style of the Renaissance, 
executed 1530, by Paul van dcr Schel- 
den. The Ch. of St. Walburga is also 
handsome, possesses an Assumption by 
Crayer, and the tomb of Claude Jalon : 
N. Dame de Pamele is of elegant Gothic 
(date 1239), and contains 2 old monu- 
ments. The tower called het Saecksen, 
and the bridge of the Porte d'Eyne, are 
very ancient structures. This is the 
birthplace of MargaretDuchess of Parma, 
governess of the Low Countries under 
Philip II., and natural daughter of 
Charles V., by Margaret van Geest, a 
lady of this place. The battle of Oude- 
narde, fought under its walls in 1708, 
was gained over the French by the 
English, in a great measure through the 
personal prowess and exertions of Marl- 
borough.] 

5 Nazareth Stat. 

12 Ghent Stat. Hence to Mechlin, 
sec Rte. 21 • and for the Railway from 
Mechlin to Brussels, see Rte. 23. 

Lille to Brussels (c), 134 kilom. = 
m. 



84 Eng. 



9 Roubaix Stat. 
3 Tourcoing Stat. 



\ Sec previous 
f Rte. (2). 



5 Mouscron Stat. 

Travellers from Lille to Tournay, and 
vice versa, here change carriages. 

Ncchin Stat. 

Templeuvc Stat. 

Tournay Stat. (Flem. Doornik). 
7nns;H. de l'lmperatrico, clean; Singe 
d'Or, good. A fortified town of 33,000 
inhab., on the Schelde, whose banks are 
faced with masonry, so as to contract 
the river into a navigable channel, and 



108 



ROUTE 15. — LILLE TO BRUSSELS. TOURNAY. 



Sect. II. 



form at the same time handsome Quais 
on each side. It is a flourishing and 
increasing town, a place of great manu- 
facturing industry, stockings and carpets 
heing the articles chiefly made here. 
The carpets, commonly called Brussels, 
come in fact from Tournay ; the art of 
weaving them was brought hither, ac- 
cording to tradition, from the East by 
Flemings, who served in the Crusades, 
and learned it from the Saracens. The 
principal manufactory (called la manu- 
facture royale), though fallen off, still 
occupies 90 looms and about 2400 per- 
sons, and is worth the attention of 
strangers, 

Tournay is supposed to be the Civitas 
Kerviorum mentioned by Ceesar in the 
Commentaries, Immense sums have 
been expended on the fortifications since 
the peace, and a new citadel constructed. 
It was considered one of the strongest 
fortresses on the outer line nearest to 
France, and endured many sieges from 
English, French, arid Spaniards. The 
most memorable, perhaps, was that of 
1581, by the Prince of Parma, when the 
defence was conducted by a woman, the 
Princess d'Espinoi, of the noble family 
of La Laing, She is said to have united 
the skill of a prudent general to the 
most intrepid bravery. Though wounded 
in the arm, she refused to quit the ram- 
parts, and at length only yielded to 
capitulation when three-fourths of her 
garrison had fallen around her, 

Henry VIII. took Tournay in 1518'; 
and bestowed the see on his favourite 
"Wolsey, who, bribed by the offer of 
Francis I.'s interest in obtaining for 
him the papacy, not only yielded up the 
bishopric, but induced his master to sell 
the town to the French King. 

The most interesting edifice in the 
town is the Cathedral, conspicuous from 
all sides with its 5 towers ; it is exceed- 
ingly fine, especially in its interior. It 
was founded by King Childeric, whose 
capital Tournay was. The existing 
edifice is vn. great part Romanesque. 
The "W. front has been disfigured by 
various alterations ; a groined porch in 
the pointed style extends the whole 
length of the front, and above it a large 
pointed window has been introduced, so 
as to destroy entirely its original cha- 



racter. The sculpture about the porch 
is in part very ancient, but the greater 
part is modern. The cathedral is en- 
tered by 2 doors, one on the 1ST. side of 
the nave, the other on the S., adjoining 
the transept. The N. door is of the 
transition period. It consists of a semi- 
circular archway beneath a pointed tre- 
foil arch, the whole profusely adorned 
with ranges of sculptured figures, ani- 
mals, and foliage. The nave has an aisle 
on each side, separated by piers and 
small columns, bearing semicircular 
arches, which in various parts approach 
the horse-shoe form. Above these is a 
second range of piers and arches, of 
similar or greater height than the first, 
forming the front of a large gallery, 
extending the width of the aisles. Over 
these is a series of arches against the 
wall, springing from short piers. The 
clerestory and the vaulted ceiling were 
built in 1777, and took the place of the 
ancient wooden roof; they will shortly 
be restored to their original appearance. 
The rest of the nave dates from the 
11th cent. All the capitals of the 
lower columns in the nave are sculp- 
tured to represent foliage, and are ex- 
ceedingly sharp and clear. The four 
great arches at the junction of the cross 
are pointed, and have been embel- 
lished by colour, much of which is still 
visible. The semicircular absis at each 
end of the transept is good. Over these 
are two triforia and a clerestory, and 
the whole terminates in a half dome, 
with plain ribs converging to a point. 
Originally the choir was about ?} the 
length of the building, and terminated 
in an absis similar to those of the tran- 
septs. The present choir, begun 1100, 
in the pointed style, 110 ft. high, sepa- 
rated from the nave by a screen (date 
1566), enriched with marble, sur- 
mounted by a statue of St. Michael, is 
enclosed by a series of horse-shoe, 
acutely pointed arches of the lightest 
and most graceful proportions. In each 
spandril of these arches is a circular 
ornament in Mosaic work, and above 
rise a very elegant triforium and lofty 
clerestory. Behind the triforium is a 
series of peculiar quatrefoil lights, 
blocked up and unknown until lately 
(as, indeed, was the whole of the tri- 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 15. — TOURNAY. FONTENOT. A I II. 



109 



foriuni), but now again filled with 
stained glass. The pillars in the choir 
were originally constructed with (hat 
daring which characterises many of the 
earlier efforts of pointed architecture, 
and soon gave symptoms of insuffi- 
ciency. They were then strengthened 
by additional masonry at the back, and 
even now are remarkable for their light- 
ness and elegance. Behind the high 
altar is placed the Gothic shrine of St. 
Eleutherius (first Bishop of Tournay, in 
(he Gth cent.), of silver gilt, of very 
rich workmanship, surrounded by figures 
of the 1 2 apostles. At the first French 
revolution this church was not only 
stripped of its revenues, but pillaged 
and defaced ; its sculpture broken, and 
its painted glass for the most part de- 
molished. The shrine escaped through 
the zeal of a citizen of the town, who 
buried it. The chapter is now sup- 
ported by the Government, which has 
also laid out 2O,00OJ. most judiciously 
in restoring the building. Many paint- 
ings covered with whitewash have been 
brought to light. At the back of the 
altar is some rich sculpture by Duqucs- 
noy, and the marble monument of a 
Prince of Solms. There is also a paint- 
ing by Rubens, the Souls in Purgatory ; 
and in the Sacristy, among a gorgeous 
collection of priestly robes, is the coro- 
nation mantle of the Empr. Charles V. 

King Childcric I., the father of Clovis, 
and whom some consider the real founder 
of the French monarchy, died in 482, 
and was buried in the church of St. Brice, 
on the opposite side of the Schelde. In 
las coffin were found a great many curio- 
sities, now deposited in the Biblotheque 
du Roi at Paris ; among them the 
"Golden Bees," with which his royal 
robes are supposed to have been studded. 
They were, in consequence, adopted by 
Buonaparte in his coronation vestments, 
in preference to the fleurs de lis, as sym- 
bols of the imperial dignity. 

The ancient Convent of St. Martin, 
with its Gothic church, is now converted 
into an Hotel de Yille. It likewise con- 
tains a Museum, and adjoining it is a 
shad} - walk called the Park, and the Bo- 
tanic Garden. There are some inter- 
esting specimens of domestic architec- 
ture in Tournay. See § 25, p. 96. 



Perkin Warbeck, the pretender to 
the throne of Henry VII., who gave 
himself out as one of the princes mur- 
dered in the Tower, was, by his own 
confession, the son of a Jew of Tournay. 

At Vaux, on the banks of the Schelde, 
2 m. from Tournay, is a square structure 
with turrets in the corners, probably of 
Roman origin. 

The valley of the Schelde around 
Tournay is very fertile, producing much 
corn. Lime is found in abundance : it 
is quarried in many places and exported 
far and wide. 

About 5 m. S.E. of Tournay, on 
the rt. of the post-road to Ath, after 
passing the village of Bourqucmbrays, 
lies the battle-field of Fontenoy, where 
the English under the Duke of Cumber- 
land, with the Dutch and Austrians, 
were defeated in 1745 by the French 
under Marshal Saxe, who was at the 
time so ill as to be unable to sit on 
horseback or to wear armour, and was 
therefore carried in a litter. Though 
the result was unfavourable to the Eng- 
lish, the skill shown by their com- 
manders and the bravery of the troops 
were highly creditable to them. The 
fortune of the day was in some measure 
decided by the bravery of the Irish bat- 
talions in the pay of France, who were 
driven abroad at that period by the poli- 
tical state of Ireland. 

Bary Stat. 

Leuze Stat. A town of 5000 inhab. 

Ligne Stat. 

Ath Stat. — (Inns : Cignc, good ; Paon 
d' Or.)— Ath on the Dender, with 8500 
inhab., is a fortress upon which Vauban 
employed his utmost skill, and for which, 
since the battle of Waterloo, modern art 
has done all that is practicable to in- 
crease its strength. It is a flourishing 
manufacturing town. 

The principal buildings are the Hotel 
de Ville, a structure of the time of the 
Archduke Albert (1600), and the 
Church of St. J alien, founded in 1393, 
destroyed by lightning, except its E. 
end, in 1817, and since rebuilt, but 
without its tall steeple. The most 
ancient monument in the town is a tower 
called Tour du Burbard, which probably 
dates from 1150. 

About 6 m. from Ath, not far off the 



110 



16. — CALAIS TO COURTRAI. 



Sect. II. 



road, is Belceil, the patrimonial estate of 
the Prince de Ligne, celebrated as a dip- 
lomatist, a soldier, and an author. He 
gives in his letters a long description of 
his country seat and gardens : they were 
laid out in the formal French taste by 
le Notre, and excited the admiration of 
Delille, who mentions this spot in his 
poem "Les Jardins," as — 

" Beloeil tout a la fois magnifique et cham- 
petre." 

Both Voltaire and Delille visited the 
Prince in his retirement here. The 
Castle is an ancient Gothic edifice, built 
in 1146, surrounded by water. It con- 
tains some interesting historical relics 
and works of art ; paintings by Diirer, 
Holbein, Van Dyk, Velazquez, L. da 
Vinci, Salv. Rosa ; also a collection of 
firearms, from their invention. The 
number and length of the avenues and 
high hornbeam hedges, with windows 
cut in them, intersecting the grounds in 
all directions, form the singular and 
characteristic feature of the Park. 

The cultivation of the mulberry and 
silkworm has been introduced at Meslin 
l'Eveque, near Ath, apparently with 
good success. An extensive establish- 
ment (Magnanerie) was formed here by 
the government of the King of Holland. 

2^ posts from Ath, on the post-road 
to Brussels, is Enghien, a town of 3680 
inhab. It was an ancient possession of 
the houses of Luxemburg and Bourbon, 
but was sold by Henry IV., King of 
France, to the Duke d'Aremberg, in 
1607, and still remains in the possession 
of his family. The chateau of the 
Duke was destroyed at the French Re- 
volution ; but the beautiful park and 
gardens deserve notice. They served, 
it is said, as a model for the famous 
gardens of Versailles, and are laid out 
in the same formal style, with avenues, 
temples, statues, canals, basins of water, 
&c. 7 avenues of beech and horse- 
chestnuts diverge from a temple in the 
park. A fine conservatory has recently 
been added. 

Maffles Stat. 

Attre Stat. 

Brugelette Stat. 

Lens Stat. 

Jurbise Stat. Here the railway joins 



that from Valenciennes and Mons. For 
the rest of the route to Brussels see 
Rte. 32. 

ROUTE 16. 

CALAIS TO COURTRAI, BY DUNKIRK AND 
YPRES. 

58 kilom. and 13 Belg. posts = 83 
Eng. m. Road good, but paved. 

Diligences twice a day to Dunkirk, 
in 5 hrs. 

24 Gravelines. A fortress and deso- 
late-looking small town, with grass 
growing in its streets : it has 3000 inhab. 
" It is," to use the words of an old 
writer, " very strong, by reason that 
they can drown it round in 4 hours, so 
as no land shall be within a mile of it." 
It is surrounded by a plain, once a vast 
marsh, below the level of the sea, nearly 
20 m. long by 12 broad: almost all 
this can be laid under water in case of 
need, to ward off a hostile invasion on 
this side of France. At present this 
district supports a population of 60,000. 
It is protected from the sea by the dunes 
or sand-hills, and is gradually being 
drained by its inhabitants. It would 
cost the arrondissement 10 millions of 
francs to repair the damage caused by 
admitting the waters upon the land. 

The Empr. Charles V. here paid a 
visit to Henry VIII. on his return from 
his interview with Francis I. at the 
Field of the Cloth of Gold, 1520. 

Beyond Gravelines the road is paved. 

20 Dunkirk ; Fr. Dunkerque (Inns: 
H. de Flandres, very good and not dear ; 
table-d'hote at 6, good, 2-^ fr. ; breakfast 
with eggs, 1 fr. 75 c; — Chaperon 
Rouge) ; a considerable fortified town 
and seaport, with 25,400 inhab. Large 
sums have been expended in endeavour- 
ing to clear the mouth of the harbour 
from the bar of sand which obstructs it, 
by means of basins and sluices, which are 
filled by the flowing of the tide and dis- 
charged at low water, so as to scour a 
channel through the mud. They are said 
to have failed in producing the results 
anticipated. Dunkirk, nevertheless, is 
the best harbour which France possesses 
in the N". Sea, and ranks fourth in the 
value of its exports and imports of all 
the seaports in the kingdom. It serves 



Belgium. ROUTK 16. — CALAIS TO COURTRAr. DUNKIRK. 



Ill 



as the outlet for the manufacturing dis- 
trict of the Dcpt. du Nord. " It is one 
of the cleanest towns in France, with 
wide streets, well payed — living cheap 
— baths very good." — D. C. 

The Qu«i, usually crowded with ves- 
sels, and Pier extending far into the sea, 
are worth seeing; so is the Corinthian 
portico of the church of St. Eloi, a 
handsome hut most incongruous frontis- 
piece to a Gothic building : in front of 
it is a fine detached Gothic belfry con- 
taining the chimes. The interior of 
the church is fine : it has a double side 
aisle. 

There is an English Protestant church, 
Rue des Scours Blanches — a proof of the 
number of British residents. 

A statue of Jean Bart, a famous sea- 
captain, born here (temp. Louis XIV.), 
stands in the great market-place. 

Dunkirk owes its origin to a chapel 
built by St. Eloi in the 7th cent, 
among the dunes or sand-hills, and 
thence comes its name — " Church of the 
Dimes." Here was equipped the Flemish 
division of the Spanish armada, designed 
to combine in the invasion of England 
under the command of the Prince of 
Parma ; but that skilful general, per- 
haps foreseeing the result, refrained from 
putting out to sea. Dunkirk, after hav- 
ing been hardly won by the English, 
under Oliver Cromwell, from the Spa- 
niards, 1658, was basely sold by Charles 
II. to Louis XIV. for 6 millions of 
livres, in 1662. 

By the Treaty of Utrecht (1715) the 
French were compelled to demolish the 
town and fortifications ; and an English 
commissioner was actually sent hither 
to ascertain that the stipulations of the 
treaty were complied with to the letter 
— a source of deep humiliation to French 
pride, but of more immediate misery to 
the poor inhabitants. The port and 
fortifications were not restored and re- 
built until 1740. 

The country around is little better 
than a dreary waste of sand-hills thrown 
up by the wind. It was in the neigh- 
bourhood of them that Turenne defeated, 
in 1658, the Spanish army under Don 
John of Austria and the great Conde, 
who had sided at that time with the 
enemies of France, in the battle of the 



Dunes. The siege of the town had been 
commenced by Mazarin, at the dictation 
of Cromwell, whose fleet blockaded it by 
sea. The Spaniards, unprovided with ar- 
tillery, advanced to meet the French, 
by marching close to the sea. Conde 
remonstrated in vain with Don John 
against a measure so perilous : " Vous 
ne connaissez pas M. de Turenne," said 
he ; "on nc fait pas impunement des 
fautes devant un si grand homme :" and 
just as the action began he turned to 
the young Duke of Gloucester and asked 
if he had ever been in a battle be- 
fore. "No," answered the Duke. "Then 
you will see one lost in half an hour." 
The action was commenced by 6000 
English soldiers of Cromwell, command- 
ed by Lockhart, his ambassador, who 
formed the left wing of the French army, 
and distinguished themselves eminently : 
their charge carried everything before 
it, and contributed not a little to the 
result. The Duke of York (afterwards 
James II.) fought in the opposite ranks, 
at the head of a regiment of cavaliers ; 
and it was from them that then - fellow- 
countrymen suffered most. The Spani- 
ai'ds lost 4000 men, and Dunkirk surren- 
dered 10 days after in consequence of 
this defeat. 

There is a canal from Dunkirk to 
Fumes, Ostcnd, and Bruges, traversed 
daily by a barge. 

Diligences daily to Ostend. Steamers 
to London and Hamburg every Satur- 
day ; to St. Petersburg the 1st and 15th 
of every month. 



A railway connects Dunkirk with the 
line from Calais to Lille and Paris at 
Hazebrouck, passing by Bergues and 
Cassel. Its length is 41 kilom. = 25f m. 

8 Bergues Stat, (see below). 

9 Esquclbccq Stat. 
7 Arnecke Stat. 

7 Cassel Stat. — (Inns : H. du Sauvage ; 
II. du Lion Blanc.) It is worth while, 
in fine weather, to stop here for a short 
time to enjoy the view. Cassel is an 
ancient town of 4234 inhab. Here at 
length the country becomes more inter- 
esting. Cassel is most agreeably situ- 
ated, commanding one of the 1 most ex- 
tensive views in Europe. Although it 



112 



ROUTE 16. — BERGUES. YPRES. 



Sect. II. 



has no striking features, it cannot be 
contemplated without deep interest, as 
exhibiting on a clear day an unusually 
extensive tract of highly cultivated and 
productive country. Its most remark- 
able feature is that the horizon is almost 
always equally distant in every direc- 
tion, as no rising ground interrupts the 
sight. It extends over the flat and fer- 
tile plains of Flanders and as far as the 
white cliffs of England, into 3 different 
kingdoms ; includes 32 towns and 100 
villages. St. Omer, Dunkirk, Yypres, 
Ostend, and the beautiful steeple of 
Hazebrouck are the most prominent ob- 
jects : no fresh water is visible in this 
vast expanse. Mount Cassel is only 
515 Eng. ft. high. It was one of the 
principal signal stations of the great 
trigonometrical survey carried on during 
the reign of Napoleon. A small map of 
the country visible may be purchased 
on the spot for 20 sous. 

The gardens and grounds of the late 
General Vandamme, who was born 
here, are commonly shown to strangers, 
and are very tastefully laid out. The 
stable is worthy of remark on account 
of its size. 

" Flemish is the general language of 
the entire population in the N. parts 
of the Dept. du Nord. It is spoken 
at Cassel, and as far as Watel." — 
G. C. L. 

10 Hazebrouck Stat. (See Rte. 15.) 

Route to Courtrai continued by rail- 
way to — 

Bergues [Inn : Poste ; small but 
cheap), a small and poor fortified town 
of 6000 inhab., situated on an elevation 
surrounded by marshes and salt lakes, 
called Moeren, formerly waste and insa- 
lubrious ; but having been drained with- 
in a few years, by the construction of 
hydraulic works, they are now becom- 
ing more productive and less unwhole- 
some. Though only a fortress of the 
third class, the possession of Bergues 
has been deemed of such consequence in 
every war that it has been 8 times taken 
and retaken and 9 times pillaged in the 
course of 8 centuries. It has a pictur- 
esque beffroi 150 ft. high. A very im- 
portant corn-market is held here every 
Monday. The gates are closed at 10, 



after which neither ingress nor egress is 
allowed. 

The French frontier and custom-house 
is reached at Oest Cappel. Here the 
" acquit a, caution" (p. 102) must be de- 
livered up. 

The country through which the road 
passes is most fertile, enclosed with 
hedges and abounding in wood, which 
gives it, though flat, a pleasing English 
character. Large quantities of hops are 
cultivated in this district. 

1| Rousbrugge, a Belgian village. 

2 1 Ypres (Inns : la Chatellenie ; 
Tete d'Or), a fortified town of 15,750 
inhab., in a fertile plain. The marshes 
around it have, for the most part, been 
drained, and it is consequently less un- 
healthy than formerly. The kind of 
linen called diaper, that is, a" Ypres, 
was made here. The English word 
comes from the corrupt pronunciation 
of the name of the place where it was 
manufactured. Thread is the principal 
article made here at present. 

The extent and prosperity of its manu- 
factures had raised the number of its 
inhab. to 200,000 souls in the 14th cent., 
at which period 4000 looms were con- 
stantly at work. 

Its importance has long since departed, 
and the only relic which remains to 
prove its former greatness is the Town 
House, called Les Holies, in the great 
market-place, a building of prodigious 
size, long and low, and in a rich style of 
Gothic architecture, surmounted by a 
stately belfry tower in the centre. It 
was begun in 1230, and continued till 
1342. The E. end, supported on pillars, 
was added in 1730. It was, in fact, a 
cloth hall, devoted to the service of the 
cloth manufacturers in olden times. 
Close to it is the Cathedral of St. Martin, 
a Gothic edifice of considerable size, but 
not of great beauty. It contains a carved 
pulpit, and a picture representing, in 
compartments, the story of the Fall of 
Man, attributed to Van Eyck, but bear- 
ing the date 1525, and probably by Peter 
Porbus. It is well coloured, and a faith- 
ful representation of the human form, 
but without grace or beauty. A flat- 
stone in the choir marks the tomb of 
Jansen, founder of the sect called Jan- 
senists, so long persecuted by the Jesu- 



Belgium, 



ROUTE 16. — COURTRAI. BATTLE OF SPUKS. 



113 



its. He was Bishop of Ypres, and 
died L683. 

•2\ M i :n i s (Inn : Faucon), on the Lys. 
Another frontier fortress, with 7640 in- 
hah.. very dismal and lifeless. It lies quite 
close to the boundary line of Franco, 
which actually touches the glacis. 

On the way to Courtrai is the village 
of Bisseghem, near which the Duke of 
York was defeated in 1793 by General 
Souham, and lost 65 pieces of cannon. 

Courtrai (Flemish Kortrvk). Trms: 
Poste, called also the Dander, good 
and cheap; table-d'hotc at 12 J: Lion 
d'Or — both in the Great Place. 

A manufacturing town of 21,500 in- 
hab., on the Lys, remarkable for its 
cleanliness and for the table damask and 
other linen made here, which is sent to 
all parts of Europe. An immense quan- 
tity of flax of very fine quality is culti- 
vated in the surrounding plain, and 
supplies not only the manufactories of 
the town, but many of the markets of 
Europe. There are largo bleaching- 
grounds in the neighbourhood, the 
waters of the Lys being supposed to 
possess qualities favourable for bleaching 
as well as for the steeping of flax. The 
first Flemish cloth manufacture was 
established here in 1260. 

The principal buildings are the Hotel 
d'j Vil/e in the market-place, a Gothic 
edifice, built 1526, but defaced by a 
modern front. It contains two veiy 
singular carved chimney-pieces, con- 
taining figures of the Virtues and Vices, 
bas-reliefs of subjects relating to the 
municipal and judicial destination of the 
building, and to events in the early his- 
tory of the town, including a procession 
of women on horseback, holding a ban- 
ner in one hand and a dagger in the 
other. Many of them may be styled 
caricatures in bas-relief. They bear the 
date of 1587 and 1595. The statues of 
Charles V., and of the Archduke Albert 
and Archduchess Isabella, occupy con- 
spicuous places. 

The Church of Notre Dame is a Gothic 
edifice, founded 1238 by Baldwin Count 
of Flanders and Empr. of Constantinople, 
but modernised, except a small portion 
on one side, and lined with marble. It 
contains behind the high altar a cele- 
brated painting by Yandyk, the Raising 



of the Cross. The drawing is bold and 
powerful, reminding one of ltubens ; 
only the colouring is inferior to his in 
freshness. The current story, that the 
canons of the church, being dissatisfied 
with the picture when sent home, 
abused it before the artist's face, and 
that he in consequence refused to paint 
any others for them after they had con- 
fessed their error, is rendered doubtful 
by the discovery at Ghent of Vandyk's 
atitograph letter, acknowledging with 
thanks the receipt of the money for the 
painting, as well as of some goffres, a 
thin sweet cake, for which Courtrai is 
still celebrated, presented to him by the 
canons. In St. Martin's Ch., N. side of 
choir, is a beautiful tabernacle or shrine 
of carved stonework, in the richest 
Gothic style — date probably end of the 
1 5th cent. — for holding the sacrament. 
Courtrai once boasted of a curious clock, 
in which 2 figures, male and female, 
came out alternately to strike the hours. 
This gave rise to the saying applied to 
a husband and wife who are never seen 
together : "lis s'accordent comme Jac- 
quemart (i. e. Jaken (Jem) op de markt) 
et sa femme." Charles the Bold carried 
it to Dijon in 1382. 

The old bridge and its Flemish flank- 
ing towers make a picturesque group. 

Under the walls of Courtrai was fought 
the famous Battle of Spurs, 1302 (not to 
be confounded with the " Battle of 
Spurs " in which Henry VIII. put the 
French chivalry to flight, 1513), gained 
by an army of 20,000 Flemings, prin- 
cipally weavers of Ghent and Bruges, 
under the Count de Namur, over the 
French under the Count d'Artois, in 
which the latter was slain, and with 
him 1 200 knights, while several thou- 
sand common soldiers were left dead on 
the field. 700 gilt spurs (an ornament 
worn only by the French nobility) were 
gathered on the field from the dead, and 
hung up as a trophy in the church of 
the convent of Groenangen, now de- 
stroyed : from this circumstance the 
battle receives its name. A small cha- 
pel, built 1831, on the rt. of the road, 
a little way outside the Porte de Gand, 
marks the centre of the battle-field. 

Railroads to Ghent and to Lille (see 
E. 15), with a branch to Tournay (p. 



114 



ROUTE 17. CALAIS TO BRUGES. 



Sect. II. 



107), turning off at Mouscron, where 
the Belgian Custom-house is. 

EOUTE 17. 

CALAIS TO OSTEND OR BRUGES. 

66 kilom. to Fumes, thence to 
Ostend 4~ Belg. posts ; Furnes to Bru- 
ges 5| Belg. posts ; Calais to Ostencl 
61f Eng. m., to Bruges 69 m. 

A very uninteresting route : the road 
is improved, hut 2 leagues of sand near 
the frontier, a drive of 1\ hrs., remain 
unpaved. 

A well-appointed omnibus runs daily 
from Dunkirk to Ostend, in direct com- 
munication with the railway trains, in 
5 hrs. Avoid the trekschuit from Dun- 
kirk to Ostend. 

The nearest way from Dunkirk to 
Furnes, when the state of the tide per- 
mits, is across the sands by the sea-side ; 
but they are sometimes quick. At the 
extremity of the sands, about 4 m. from 
Furnes, is the boundary of France and 
Belgium, and the station of the custom- 
house. 

22 Furnes (Flemish, Yeuren). A 
sickly town, owing to the malaria from 
the surrounding marshes — 4600 inhab. 
A great part of the linen manufactured 
in Belgium is sold here at large fairs 
held three times a year. 

The portion of the Abbey of St. Wille- 
brod which escaped the ravages of the 
French Be volution is curious. The 
choir is entire and fine, resembling that 
of the Dom at Cologne, though on a 
smaller scale, and less ornamented. It 
contains an image of the Virgin, which 
annually works a great many miracles, 
and her shrine is thickly furnished with 
votive offerings in consequence. The 
Hotel de Ville is a Gothic building, pro- 
fusely ornamented with carvings. 

[At Dixmude, about 8 m. E. of Fur- 
nes, is a fine and large Gothic church, 
containing a stone Roodscreen of most 
elaborate and beautiful workmanship, 
in an excessively florid (flamboyant) 
style, corresponding, though not identi- 
cal, with our Tudor architecture. Over 
the high altar hangs a chef-d'oeuvre of 
Jordaens, the Adoration of the Magi.] 



The direct road from Furnes to Os- 
tend is a long stage of 4| posts by 
Nieuwport, a strong fortress, memorable 
for the victory gained on the sand-hills 
outside its walls at "Westende, by Prince 
Maurice of Nassau, in 1600, over the 
Spaniards. His brother, Prince Fre- 
deric Henry, then only 15, and several 
young English noblemen, led on by Sir 
Francis and Horace Vere, served under 
him. When the action was about to 
commence, Maurice, who foresaw that 
it would be a bloody engagement, and 
had made up his mind to conquer or 
perish, recommended the youthful band 
to return to Ostend and reserve them- 
selves for some other occasion. They 
scorned to accept the suggestion, and 
determined to share all the perils of the 
contest. In the first onset Sir Francis 
Vere was desperately wounded, and the 
English volunteers suffered severely, 
though they gave an eminent example 
of courage. The good generalship of 
Prince Maurice was never more con- 
spicuous than on that day, and the 
arms of the patriots were eventually 
triumphant. 

As there is nothing at all to see at 
Ostend, travellers had better make di- 
rectly for Bruges by Ghistelles, by 
which they will be gainers in time and 
distance. 

3^ Ghistelles. This is a pretty vil- 
lage, named from the stable or stud of 
the Counts of Flanders, which was 
situated here, attached to the old Castle, 
slight remains of which still exist. In 
the neighbourhood is a nunnery and 
Church, containing the monument of St. 
Godalieve, wife of Bertulf Lord of 
Ghistelles, in the 11th cent., who was 
strangled by her husband through 
jealousy, and is now worshipped as a 
saint. Her bones lie in a shrine of 
brass, before which a lamp burns night 
and day. Above her altar is a group 
of 3 figures, as large as life, representing 
the murder. 

2| Bruges. See Bte. 21. 

ROUTE 18. 

LONDON TO ANTWERP BY THE SCHELDE. 

About 210 m. A Belgian and 2 Eng- 
lish steamers go from London every 



Belgium, route 18. — London to antwebp. walcheben. 



115 



Sun. and Thurs. ; from Antwerp every 
Sun. and Wed. Fares : chief cabin, 

2/. 2s.; second cabin, 1/. L2s. Gd.; a 
Carriage, -I/.; and in returning much 
loss. The voyage occupies from 20 
to 24 hrs., 7 of which arc taken up 
in descending the Thames and G in as- 
cending the Schelde. The return pas- 
sage is usually shorter. 

The course from the Thames to the 
Schelde is almost a straight line. It was 
the, situation of the Schelde, immediately 
opposite 1 the mouth of the English river 
and the port of London, that caught the 
attention of Napoleon, who saw what 
advantageous use might be made of such 
a harbour to annoy the English in war 
or rival them in commerce. 

On entering the mouth of the river 
called the Ilond, or West Schelde, the 
land on the 1. hand is Walcheren, the 
largest of the 9 islands which form the 
province of Zealand, or Zceland (Sea 
land). The district is most appropriately 
named, since the greater part of it lies 
many feet below the level of the sea ; it 
may, therefore, truly be said to appertain 
naturally to that element. The isles of 
Zealand, separated from one another by 
the different branches of the Schelde, 
are protected from the inroads of the 
ocean, partly by natural sand-banks or 
dunes (§ 12), partly by enormous dykes 
or sea-walls (§ 9), which measure more 
than 300 m. in extent, and cost annu- 
ally more than 2 millions of florins to 
keep them in repair. Of the great dyke 
at West Kappel, in the island of Wal- 
cheren, it is said, that, had it been ori- 
ginally made of solid copper, the first 
cost woidd have been less than the sums 
already expended in building and re- 
pairing it. The polders, or drained and 
dyked meadows, are divided by the 
water engineers into two classes — those 
nearest the sea or river, which arc of 
course most exposed to inundation, are 
called polders calamitevx ; the more dis- 
tant are distinguished as non calamiteux. 
The first class requires stronger dykes, 
the maintenance of which is considered 
so important that they are kept up partly 
at the expense of government; those 
further inland, not being equally ex- 
posed to danger, are maintained by the 
province or by private individuals. 



A large portion of the country being 
thus partitioned out, as it were, by 
dykes, even should the outer or sea- 
dyke break, the extent of the disaster 
is limited by these inner defences, and 
the further ravages of the flood are pre- 
vented. Notwithstanding the care with 
which they are continually watched, a 
rupture took place, in 1808, in the great 
dyke of West Kappel, by which a great 
part of the island of Walcheren was in- 
undated ; the sea stood as high as the 
roofs of the houses in the streets of 
Middelburg, and the destruction of that 
town was prevented solely by the strength 
of its walls. 

The whole province is most fertile 
and productive, especially in corn and 
madder, which may be considered the 
staple. Its meadows, manured with 
wood ashes, bear excellent grass. It is 
also exceedingly populous, abounding 
in towns and villages ; but, owing to 
the embankments which enclose them, 
the only indications of their existence 
are the summits of spires, roofs, and tall 
chimneys, seen at intervals over these 
artificial mounds by those who ascend 
the Schelde. The industry of the Zea- 
land peasant, and the economy with 
which he husbands his resources, are 
very remarkable, and might furnish a 
good example to the same class in our 
own country. As an instance of the 
mode in which he makes a little go a 
great way, it may be mentioned, that 
even from the rushes and reeds on the 
river banks he gains a meal for his 
cattle. When boiled, mixed with a 
little hay, and sprinkled with a little 
salt, they are much relished by the 
cows who thrive upon them, and yield 
abundance of milk. 

The island (rt.) opposite to Wal- 
cheren ' is Cadsand, memorable in the 
English expedition of 1809. Cadsand 
had been, at an earlier period, the scene 
of a glorious victory gained by the 
valiant Sir Walter Manny and Henry 
Plantagenet Earl of Derby, at the 
head of the chivalry of England, over a 
large body of Flemings, in the pay of 
Philip dc Yalois, King of France, in 
1337. The English, effecting a land- 
ing in the face of the enemy, drove 
them from the sand-hills on which they 



116 



ROUTE 18. LONDON TO ANTWERP. FLUSHING. Sect. II. 



were posted, and took, burned, and 
razed the town. The cloth-yard shafts 
of the English archers did great exe- 
cution, and the personal prowess of the 
two leaders contributed not a little to 
the issue of the day. The first town 
which is perceived on the 1. of the 
spectator, and rt. bank of the river, is 

(ft.) Flushing (Dutch, Ylissingen). 
Inn, Heerenlogement, not very good. 

A fortified town of 7000 inhab., with 
dockyard and naval arsenal : 2 large and 
deep canals, communicating wj.th the 
sea, enable the largest merchant vessels 
to penetrate into the town, and unload 
their cargoes on the quays, close to the 
warehouses. 

It was bombarded and taken by the 
English, under Lord Chatham in 1809, 
when a great part of the town was 
destroyed, and 300 of the inhab. pe- 
rished. This unprofitable and cruel 
exploit was the sole result of the Wal- 
cheren expedition, and the only achieve- 
ment of the largest and best-equipped 
armament which ever left the shores of 
Britain, consisting of 37 ships of the 
line, 23 frigates, and 82 gun-boats, con- 
taining a force of. 100,000 men, who 
might have carried Antwerp by a coup- 
de-main. Since then the works of 
Flushing have been greatly strength- 
ened, and in combination with the Fort 
of Rammekens, lying to the E., and 
those of Breskens, on the opposite side 
of the Schelde (here from 2^- to 3 m. 
broad), completely command the en- 
trance of the river. 

Admiral de Ruiter was born here, 
the son of a rope-maker ; a statue has 
been erected to him by his townsfolk. 
The fine Stadhuis (Town Hall), 2 
churches, and more than 100 houses, 
were destroyed by the bombs and Con- 
greve rockets of the English. Within 
the walls there is nothing but the usual 
singularities of a Dutch town (§ 10) 
to excite the attention of a stranger, but 
at West Kappel the construction of the 
dykes is seen in the greatest perfection. 
At this point there is a gap in the Dunes, 
and the country behind would be at 
the mercy of the sea, were it not de- 
fended by a dyke 4700 yds. long and 
30 ft. high, upon the stability of which 
the safety of the whole island depends. 



[5 m. inland from Flushing is 
Middelburg, capital of Zealand, (/ww, 
Heerenlogement, not bad.) 14,000 in- 
hab. A remarkably clean town, with 
a splendid Town Hall, built, 1468, 
by Charles the Bold, ornamented with 
25 colossal statues of Counts and Count- 
esses of Flanders. 

The telescope was invented at Mid- 
delburg, in 1601, by one Hans Lipper- 
shey, a spectacle-maker.] 

The climate of Walcheren is most un- 
healthy in spring and autumn, when 
even the natives are liable to ague, or a 
species of marsh fever called the koorts. 
This disease is far more fatal to stran- 
gers, as was proved by the deaths of 
7000 English soldiers, who perished 
here during the disastrous and ill-con- 
trived expedition of 1809. The fever, 
however, is not contagious, and may be 
avoided by protecting the person with 
warm clothes against the sudden transi- 
tions of temperature, and by careful 
diet. Many of the inhabitants are very 
long-lived ; and the mortality among 
the English became so great from the 
circumstance of their arriving during 
the most unhealthy season, from their 
being exposed in tents to the night-air, 
and from their incautious consumption 
of green fruit. 

The distance from Flushing to Antr 
werp up the river is reckoned to be 
about 62 m. The island next to Wal- 
cheren, forming the rt. bank of the 
river, is Zuid Beveland. 

On the 1. bank, but at some dis- 
tance off, is Biervliet, a small town, 
only deserving of mention because a 
native of this place, named William 
Beukels, invented in 1386 the art of 
curing herrings. A monument was 
erected in the church to him as a bene- 
factor to his country ; and it is related 
that Charles V., and his sister the 
Queen of Hungary, visited his tomb, 
out of respect to the memory of the 
fisherman to whom Holland owes a 
large part of her wealth. 

Biervliet was detached from the con- 
tinent by an inundation in 1377, which 
submerged 19 villages and nearly all 
their inhab. Dutch industry and per- 
severance have long since recovered 
every acre. 



Belgium, route 18. — London to Antwerp, the schelde. 



117 



(/.) Terneusen.— -Near tliis are tin- 

Sluice-gates which close the entrance 

of the new canal extending to Ghent, 

which gives that city all the advantages 
of a seaport, as it is 10 ft. dee}), and 
wide enough to admit vessels of very 
large burthen. It serves also as a 
drain to carry off the water from the 
district through which it passes. At 
Sas van Oend are sluices, by means of 
which the whole country can he laid 
under water. 

The artificial embankments on each 
side of the Schelde are protected against 
the current, and masses of floating ice 
brought down in winter, by piers and 
breakwaters of piles driven into the 
river bed, or by masonry brought from 
a considerable distance in the interior, 
principally from Namur. 

Below this both banks of the Schelde 
belong to Holland; but, after passing 
the termination of the island of Zuid 
Beveland, the river flows through Bel- 
gian territory. 

The strait or passage called Kreek 
Bak, which separates Zuid Beveland 
from the main land, is commanded by the 
very strong Fort Batz, which lies on the 
limits of the Dutch territory. Etc. 13. 

On approaching Forts Lillo (rt.) and 
Liefkenshoek (/.), the city of Antwerp 
with its tall spire appears in sight. 
These tw r o strong works remained after 
the Belgic revolution in the hands of 
the Dutch down to 1839, when they 
were dismantled and given up to the 
Belgians in exchange for Venloo in 
Limburg, and abandoned in conformity 
with the Treaty of the Quadruple Al- 
liance. They completely commanded 
the passage; up and down the Schelde, 
which here puts on the appearance of 
a river; lower down it is more an arm 
of the sea, flowing between the islands 
of Zealand. 

The polders (§ 11) above Fort Lief- 
kenshoek, on the 1, bank, were laid 
under water during the contest with 
the Dutch, by cutting the dykes, and 
down to 1838 an extensive tract of 
country remained in consequence de- 
30late and useless. 5 or tJ other forts 
arc passed on cither side of the river 
previous to arriving at Antwerp. Be- 
tween (/.) Calloo and (W.) Oordam, in 



L 585, the Duke of Parma threw across 
the Schelde his celebrated bridge ^400 
ft. long, which, by (losing the naviga- 
tion of the river, and preventing the 
arrival of supplies of provisions to the 
besieged city of Antwerp, mainly con- 
tributed to its surrender. The bridge 
was so strongly built that it resisted 
the floods and ice of winter ; 97 pieces 
of cannon were mounted on it, 2 forts 
guarded its extremities, and a protect- 
ing fleet was stationed, beside it to 
assist in repelling any attack. The 
hesieged, who, at first, laughed to scorn 
the notion of rendering such a structure 
permanent, when they found that all 
communication with their friends was 
cut off by it, began to tremble for the 
result, and every effort was made by 
them to effect its destruction. One 
night, the Spaniards were surprised by 
the appearance of 3 blazing fires float- 
ing down the stream, and bearing 
directly towards the bridge. These 
were fire-ships invented by a foreign 
engineer then within the walls of Ant- 
werp. The Prince of Parma rushed 
to the bridge to avert the threatening 
danger, and, had he not been forcibly 
removed from it, would probably have 
lost his life ; for one of the vessels, 
reaching its destination with great pre- 
cision, blew up with such tremendous 
force as to burst through the bridge in 
spite of its chains and cables, and de- 
molished one of the stockades which 
connected it with the shore. 800 
Spanish soldiers were destroyed by the 
explosion, and Parma himself was 
struck down senseless by a beam. Had 
the Zealand fleet been at hand, as pro- 
posed, the city might have been re- 
lieved; unfortunately some untoward 
mistake prevented its co-operation at 
the right moment, and allowed the 
Spanish general time to repair the 
damages, which, with his usual acti- 
vity, he effected in an incredibly short 
space. Another attempt on the part 
of the besieged to destroy the bridge, 
by means of an enormous floating ma- 
chine called the "End of the War," 
an unprophetic name, was entirely frus- 
trated by the vessel running aground; 
and Antwerp, reduced by famine, was 
compelled to surrender. 



118 



ROUTE 19. GHENT TO BRUSSELS. 



Sect. II. 



It was immediately in front of the 
fort of St. Laurent, below the town of 
Antwerp, that an instance of patriotic 
devotion was manifested on the part of 
a Dutch officer, which deserves to rank 
by the side of the heroic deeds of the 
Spartans and Romans. In February, 
1831, while hostilities were still in 
progress between Holland and Bel- 
gium, one of the Dutch gun-boats, in 
sailing up the Schelde from Fort Aus- 
truweel to the citadel during a heavy 
gale, twice missed stays. In spite of 
all the exertions of the crew, the vessel 
took the ground close under the guns 
of the fort, and within a few yards of 
the docks. The helpless situation of 
the gun-boat had been marked by 
crowds of Belgians from the shore ; and 
the moment she was fast, a body of 
Belgian volunteers leaped on board, in 
haste to make a prize of the stranded 
vessel. The commander, a young 
officer named Van Speyk, was called on, 
in a triumphant tone, to haul down his 
colours and surrender. He saw that 
all chance of rescue, and of successful 
resistance against . unequal numbers, 
were alike vain ; but he had repeatedly 
before expressed his determination never 
to yield up his vessel, and he proved as 
good as his word. He rushed down to 
the powder magazine, laid a lighted 
cigar upon an open barrel of gunpow- 
der, and then, falling on his knees to 
implore forgiveness of the Almighty 
for the crime of self-destruction, he 
calmly awaited the result. In a few 
moments the explosion took place ; 
and, while the vibration shook the 
whole city, the dauntless Van Speyk, 
and all but 3 out of his crew of 31 
men, were blown into the air. Van 
Speyk was an orphan; he had been edu- 
cated at the public expense in an orphan 
house at Amsterdam : thus nobly did 
he repay his debt, and his country 
and king were not unmindful of him. 
A monument was set up to his memory 
by the side of that of De Ruiter, and 
it was decreed that henceforth a vessel 
in the Dutch navy should always bear 
the name of Van Speyk. 

Antwerp. See Rte. 22. 



ROUTE 19. 

GHENT TO BRUSSELS BY ALOST. 

6± posts = 30| Eng. m. 

The Railroad by Mechlin to Brus- 
sels, though longer, is a quicker way 
to Brussels than this high road, on 
which the diligences take 7 hrs. 

The gate by which we quit Ghent, 
called the Porte de Bruxelles, or de 
1'Empereur, dates from 1300. A stone 
bridge, built 1820, connects it with the 
fine suburb of La Pecherie. 

lj Quadrecht, on the Schelde. Near 
this the railway crosses the road. 

2 Alost (or Aalst). — Inns; H. Pays- 
Bas; Trois Rois. A town of 14,800 
inhab., on the Dender. The name sig- 
nifies "to the east," i. e. of the Imperial 
province of Flanders, of which it was 
the frontier town in that direction. 

The Cathedral or Ch. of St. Martin 
is unfinished, or in part destroyed; 
what is left is very beautiful, and said 
to be by the architect of Amiens. In it 
is a celebrated picture, St. Roch inter- 
ceding with our Saviour to appease the 
plague at Alost, by Rubens. It is one 
of his most sublime works, and was 
carried to Paris by the French. " The 
composition is upon the same plan as 
that of St. Bavon at Ghent. The pic- 
ture is divided into two parts. The 
Saint and Christ are represented in the 
upper part, and the effects of the plague 
in the lower part of the picture. In 
this piece the grey is rather too predo- 
minant, and the figures have not that 
union with their ground which is ge- 
nerally so admirable in the works of 
Rubens. I suspect it has been in some 
picture-cleaner's hands, whom I have 
often known to darken every part of the 
ground about the figure, in order to 
make the flesh look brighter and clearer, 
by which the general effect is de- 
destroyed." — Sir J. R. Near the H. de 
Ville, recently rebuilt by Roelandt, is 
the ancient Maison Commune, founded 
in 1200 ; its tower and balcony in front 
date from 14S7. 

Alost is a great hop-market, and has 
considerable cloth manufactures. It is 
3 m. S. of the Audeghem station (see 
p. 135). Omnibuses ply to and from 
the railroad. 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 20. — LONDON TO OSTEND. 



119 



l£ Assche. A small town of 4000 
inhab., trading in Max and hops. " A 
particular sort of cake is made here : 
the Flemish name of it has a marvel- 
lously uncouth appearance; it is suiker- 
koekjes; nevertheless theyare good cakes, 
and sold by Jodocus de Bisehop, next 
door to the aubergo La Tete de Boeuf." 
— Southey. 

1£ Brussels. (See Etc. 23.) 

ROUTE 20. 

VOYAGE FROM LONDON OR DOVER TO 
OSTEND. 

Steamers to and from London, in 
summer 4 times a- week, starting from 
London Wed. and Sat. morning, and 
returning Tucs. and Fri. The aver- 
age passage is 15 hrs., 7 of which arc 
occupied in descending the Thames. 
Fares : chief cabin, 1/. 4s. ; fore cabin, 
18s. ; carriages, 31. 3s. Ostend pre- 
sents more frequent opportunities of 
reaching London than cither Antwerp 
or Rotterdam. 

Between Dover and Ostend there is 
now a daily mail communication by 
first-rate iron steamers, belonging to 
the English and Belgian governments. 
The departures on both sides are so 
arranged as to avoid (excepting in ex- 
traordinary cases) all landing in boats. 
The great power of these steamers (120 
to 140 h. p.) as compared with their 
tonnage (190 tons), and their light 
draft of water (5 to 6 ft.) enable them 
to save the tide, and to perform the 
voyage in 4 or 5 hrs. The distance 
is 63 m. Fares: chief cabin, 15s. ; fore- 
cabin, 10s. ; children half-price. Car- 
riages, 2 wheels, 11. lis. 6d. ; 4 wheels, 
31. 3s. Persons leaving London by the 
mail train at 8.30 p.m. may reach Brus- 
sels or Antwerp at 11.30 next morning, 
and Cologne in the evening ; Hamburg 
at 5, and Berlin at 9 o'clock on the fol- 
lowing evening. In the Belgian govern- 
ment steamers the luggage is examined 
during the voyage. 

Steamers sometimes run during sum- 
mer from Ilamsgate, which harbour 
they can leave at all times of the tide, 
and therefore have less chance of miss- 
ing the tide at Ostend. 

The light of Dunkirk, about 15 m. S., 
is seen before the Ostend light. The 



harbour of Ostend, which is dry at low 
water, is flanked by 2 jetties, furnishing 
agreeable walks ; at the entrance is a 
bar of sand, which is kept down by the 
discharge of the sluices connected with 
the canal to Bruges. 

Ostend. — Inns: Hotel d'Allcmagnc, 
close to Railroad stat., good ; — II. Fon- 
taine, Rue Longuc, new 1850 ; — II. 
des Bains : charges, table-d'hotc, 3 fr. ; 
half-bottle of wine 1 fr. 50 c. ; bed 1 fr. 
50 c. ; tea or breakfast 1 fr. 50 c. ; — 
Hotel Marion ;— Cour Imperiale ; — Lion 
d'Or; quiet. Travellers should be on 
their guard against drinking water, 
which is filtered rain-water. Seltzer 
water is drunk in preference. (§ 6.) 

The Passport-Office and Custom-house 
are both near the harbour : they open 
at 5 A.M. in summer, to prevent delay 
to passengers who may desire to pro- 
ceed on their journey. If the traveller 
reaches Ostend in time to proceed on 
to Bruges the same evening, he will 
find it the better place to spend the 
night at. A commissionaire will attend 
to the passport and secure places, and 
consider himself well paid by 2 fr. 

N.B. Passengers going direct to 
Cologne need not have their baggage 
searched at Ostend. They may place it 
under the charge of an officer of the rail- 
road, who is to be found at the Custom- 
house, who takes charge of it at once, 
and it will be delivered again on the 
production of the ticket at Cologne, 
where it is examined. Such luggage is 
marked " in transit." Vigilantes, § 22 A. 

English is much spoken, and there is 
even an English Chapel here. 

A few hotirs at Ostend exhaust a 
traveller's patience; while the visit to 
the douane, and the extortions of inn- 
keepers and commissionaires, are not 
likely to improve his temper. The best 
advice which can be given to any one 
about to embark hence to England is 
not to set out for this place a moment 
sooner than will enable him to go com- 
fortably on board the steamer. Those 
whom accident or design may detain 
will perhaps be glad of the following 
information : — 

Ostend contains 14,244 inhab. ; it 
stands in an angle between the sea and 
the harbour, and even on the land-side 



120 



ROUTE 21. OSTEND TO BRUGES, ETC. 



Sect. II. 



is nearly surrounded by water. The 
land lies very low all round, and the 
waters are controlled by means of 
sluices. 

Ostend is strongly fortified, and sur- 
rounded by ramparts and broad ditches. 
It endured one of the most famous sieges 
recorded in history, from the Spaniards ; 
it lasted 3£ years, from 1601 to 1604. 
The town yielded to the Spanish general 
Spinola at last, only by command of 
the States- General, who had gained 
their point by its obstinate resistance. 
50,000 men of the besieged, and 80,000 
Spaniards, are said to have fallen during 
the siege. The victors paid dearly for 
their conquest; all that they gained 
was a plot of ground covered with a 
heap of ruins ; for their cannon had 
levelled every house with the earth ; 
and they lost 4 other towns, which 
were wrested from them by the Dutch 
while their armies were engaged in this 
unprofitable enterprise. The noise of 
the bombardment was, it is said, heard 
in London at times. 

As a fortress Ostend forms the first 
member of that great chain of defences 
which were intended to protect Belgium 
on the side of France. 

Neither the public buildings here, nor 
the churches, are remarkable, except to 
those who have never before seen the 
paraphernalia of the Roman Catholic 
religion. The only thing worth seeing, 
and the most agreeable spot in Ostend, 
is the Digue, a sea-wall 40 ft. high and 
•^ m. long, extending between the sea 
and the ramparts, faced with stone and 
paved with bricks, which forms a public 
promenade, and commands a wide ex- 
tent of dimes and flat sands to the sea, 
not a tree being visible. This and the 
wooden Piers stretching on both sides 
of the harbour's mouth are much re- 
sorted to in the evening. 

Ostend is a favourite watering-place, 
and is much resorted to in summer 
(Aug. and Sept.) ; even the King and 
Queen of the Belgians repair hither, and 
occupy 2 or 3 ordinary -looking houses 
in the Rue Longue. There are 80 
Bathing Machines on the beach, and the 
sands are very extensive and smooth, 
and crowded with bathers of both sexes, 
decorously clad in bath dresses, by 



order of the police. A bathing-house, 
Pavilion des Bains, has been established 
close to the sea, on this Digue. 

In the Town-hall, on the Place 
d' Armes, is the Casino, a sort of assem- 
bly-room or club, the subscription to 
which amounts to 12 fr. for the season. 
It contains a ball-room 150 ft. long, 
where there is dancing 2 or 3 times a 
week. Beneath it are reading-rooms, 
provided with newspapers, coffee and 
billiard rooms. Max. Korniker, book- 
seller, has a shop at Ostend. 

An English consul (Mr. Curry) re- 
sides at Ostend; a British subject may 
obtain from him a passport, shordd he 
have neglected to provide himself with 
one in England. 

Outside the Bruges gate are the Oyster 
Parks [Huitrieres), salt-water reservoirs 
filled with oysters brought from Har- 
wich, Colchester, and elsewhere on 
the English coast, and fattened here. 
Another is near the Lighthouse. They 
are transported hence as far as Paris, 
under the name of Huitres d'Ostende. 

Steamers " to London and to Dover, 
see p. 119. 

Diligence daily to Calais, by Dunkirk, 
in 9 hrs. 

Railroad, see § 22, and Rte. 21. 

ROUTE 21. 

OSTEJTD TO BRUGES, GHEXT, TEEMOXDE, 
AND MECHLIX. — RAILROAD. 

Ostend to Bruges 22 kiloni.==13| m. ; 
Bruges to Ghent 45 kilom.=28I m. ; 
Ghent to Mechlin 56 kilom.=35 m. 

The country is rich in an agricultural 
point of view, but fiat, tame, and tire- 
some to other eyes than those of a far- 
mer, A Canal connects Ostend with 
Bruges, a fine broad sheet of water, 
3 or 4 times wider than the narrow 
strips to which we are accustomed in 
England. In 1798 a detachment of 
English troops landed at the inouth of 
it and destroyed the sluices ; but the 
wind shifted before they could make 
good then retreat, and they were taken 
prisoners by the French. 

7 Plasschendael Stat. The Dunkirk 
canal here joins that froin Ostend to 
Bruges. At Oudenburg are kitchen 



Belgium, 



ROUTE 21. — BRUGKS. CATHEDRAL. 



121 



gardens which supply Ostond with ve- 
getables. 

(5 Jabbeke Stat. 

9 BRUGES Stat. £ hr. from Ostend. 

Bruges (Flem. Brugge). — Inns: II. 
dc Flandres, in the Rue Noordzand; 
table-d'hote at 1 ; the fish dinners on 
Fridays are renowned. — H. du Com- 
merce in the Rue St. Jacques ; fair and 
cheap. — Flour dc Ble. — Ours d'Or. 

This city, the Liverpool of the middle 
ages, which was rich and powerful 
when Antwerp and Ghent were only in 
their infancy, is now reduced to 49,437 
inhab., of whom 15,000 are paupers. 
In the 14th cent, the commerce of the 
world may be said to have been con- 
centrated in it : Factories, or privileged 
companies of merchants, from 17 king- 
doms were settled here as agents ; 20 
foreign ministers had hotels within its 
walls ; and natives of many distant 
countries, of which little was then 
known but their names, repaired hither 
annually. Early in the 13th cent. 
Bruges was made the staple place of the 
cities of the Hanseatic League, and of 
the English wool trade, and became the 
centre of resort for the Lombard and 
Venetian traders, who brought hither 
the manufactures of India and the pro- 
duce of Italy, to exchange them for the 
merchandise of Germany and the Baltic. 
Richly laden argosies from Venice, Ge- 
noa, and Constantinople, might, at the 
same time, be seen unloading in its 
harbour ; and its warehouses groaned 
beneath bales of wool from England, 
linen from Belgium, and silk from 
Persia. It stands on the little river 
Rege, formerly navigable, but now 
almost absorbed by canals. Bruges was 
long the residence of the Counts of 
Flanders ; but it reached the height of 
its splendour in the first part of the 
15th cent., when the Dukes of Bur- 
gundy fixed their court here. 

At present it wears an air of deso- 
lation ; the people in its streets are few, 
and it has lost the indications of com- 
mercial activity. Its appearance is the 
more mournful from its great extent, 
and the size and unaltered splendour of 
many of the public buildings and pri- 
vate houses, — vestiges of its former 
wealth and prosperity. 
[N. G.] 



Fair city, worthy of her ancient fame! 
The season of her splendour is f;one hy, 
Yet everywhere its monuments remain : 
Temples which rear their stately heads on high, 
Canals that intersect the fertile plain — 
Wide streets and square3, with many a court 

and hall, 
Spacious and undefae'd — but ancient all. 
When I may read of tilts in days of old, 
Of tournays grae'd hy chieftains of renown, 
Fair dames, grave citizens, and warriors bold — 
If fancy could portray some stately town, 
Which of such pomp fit theatre may be, 
Fair Bruges ! I shall then remember thee. 

South ey. 

It has still many objects of interest, 
which deserve at least a day to be de- 
voted to them. They may be conve- 
niently visited in the following order : — 
Start from the railroad station, close to 
which is a Capuchin convent, by the 
Rue Zuidzand, which leads to the Ca- 
thedral (rt.) ; thence to Notre Dame, 
which is at a short distance to the S.E. 
— on the W. of this is the Hospital of 
St. Jean ; thence, by the Dyvcr canal, 
through the fish-market, to the Hdtel 
de Ville, Palais de Justice, and Cha- 
pelle du S. Sang ; thence by the Rue 
Haute, Pont des Moulins, and Rue 
Molenmaersch, to the Jerusalem Church, 
beyond which, near the rampart, are 
the garden of St. Sebastian and Con- 
vent of English ladies ; return by Rue 
and Pont des Carmes to the Aoademie 
and the Grande Place. 

The Cathedral {St. Sameur), on the 
rt. side of the Staen street, leading from 
the railway into the town, is a Gothic 
building, externally of brick, and ugly ; 
but within, the handsomest church in 
Bruges (date after 1358). Of the pic- 
tures which it contains some are curious 
for their antiquity, and most as con- 
tributions to the history of Flemish art. 
Against the wall of the S. aisle hangs a 
small picture with shutters, representing 
the martyrdom of St. Hippolytus, who 
was torn in pieces by horses, by Bans 
Hemling. On the outside of the shut- 
ters are 4 saints in grey : inside, a 
crowned figure, and the donor and Lis 
wife, capital portraits. There is also a 
good picture of the Last Supper, with 
Abraham and Elijah in the centre and 
at the side, by Peter Porbus. There 
are several paintings by the brothers 
Van Oost. On either side of the altar 
is a fine marble tomb. In the Chopille 

G 



122 



ROUTE 21. — BRUGES. CHURCHES. HOSPITAL. Sect. II. 



des Corcloimiers, in the N. aisle, is a 
series of monumental Brasses built into 
the wall, interesting examples of early 
Flemish art in the 15th and 16th cen- 
turies. 

Notre Dame (Onze Vrouw) is a 
church surmounted by a tall brick 
tower, with stunted spire, less remark- 
able for its architecture than for the 
works of art to be found in it. The 
pulpit is one of those specimens of ela- 
borate carving in wood, so common in 
the churches of the Netherlands. In a 
chapel in the S. side of the Ch. is a 
statue of the Virgin and Child, said to 
be by Michael Angelo, and believed by 
Sir Joshua Reynolds to have certainly 
the air of his school. There is a grandeur 
about the upper part of the Virgin's 
figure, and in the turn of the head and 
in the features, which resemble some of 
M. Angelo' s works. The tradition in 
Bruges is, that a vessel which was con- 
veying it to England was lost on the 
neighbouring coast of Flanders. Ho- 
race Walpole is said to have offered 
30,000 fl. for it. It was carried to Paris 
by the French. Beyond, in a chapel in 
the aisle S. of the choir, are the Tombs 
of Charles the Bold, Duke of Bur- 
gundy, and his daughter Mary, wife of 
the Empr. Maximilian, the last scions 
of the house of Burgundy, and the last 
native sovereigns of the Netherlands. 
The effigies of both father and daughter, 
made of copper, richly guilt, but not 
displaying any high excellence as works 
of art, repose at full length on slabs of 
black marble. Beneath and round the 
sides are coats of arms richly enamelled, 
" which record the string of duchies, 
counties, and lordships which this illus- 
trious and amiable heiress brought to 
the house of Austria, and which after- 
wards swelled the empire, on which the 
sun never set, of her grandson Charles V. 
The exquisite richness of the monu- 
ments, the historical interest attaching 
both to the father and daughter, and the 
affection of the Flemish for the memory 
of this young countess, who died when 
pregnant at the age of 25, by a fall from 
her horse, while hawking with her hus- 
band near Bruges, having long con- 
cealed, out of affection for him, the 
mortal injury she had received, render 



them objects worthy of considerable 
attention." The Duke wears a crown 
on his head, and is decorated with the 
order of the Golden Fleece. 

The Monument of Mary of Burgundy 
was erected in 1495, and is far superior 
to the other. In 1558 Philip II. be- 
spoke one exactly like it for his great- 
great-grandfather, Charles the Bold, 
and paid one Master Jonghelinck for it 
14,000 fl., besides 40 fl. to each of the 
workmen as compensation for the loss 
of his teeth in the process of enamelling. 
During the French Ee volution these 
monuments were concealed, to preserve 
them from rapacity and Vandalism, by 
the beadle of the church, Pierre De- 
zutter, at the peril of his life, since a 
price of 2000 fr. was put upon his head 
in consequence of this good deed. Both 
monuments have been recently (finished 
in 1848) cleaned and regilt by a gold- 
smith of Bruges, M. Allard ; a charge 
of 50 cents per person is made for show- 
ing them. A wooden planking affixed 
to the railing of the chapel conceals 
them from view. A richly carved 
Gothic balcony, of the pew of the 
family of Gruthuyze, on the 1. of the 
high altar, and a painting in the style 
of John Mabuse (16th cent.), representing 
a Madonna (Mater Dolorosa) in the 
centre, with 7 scenes from the life of 
Christ round it, deserve to be looked at. 
The Crucifixion and the Last Supper, 
by Peter Porous, hang in the side aisles, 
and are among the finest works of that 
artist. 

In the Ch. of St. Jacques (close to 
the Hotel du Commerce), a handsome 
building, rich in altars and marbles, are 
some interesting monumental brasses of 
a Spanish family : observe one, dated 
1577, to Don Francisco di Lapuebla and 
his lady, in the Chapel of Ste. Croix. 
They are worthy of notice, because few 
are now to be seen in Belgium. 

Close to Notre Dame is the Hospital 
of St. John, an ancient charitable insti- 
tution, where the sick are attended by 
the religious sisters of the house, whose 
duties resemble those of the Soeurs de 
la Charite. Portraits of some of the 
directors and superiors of the establish- 
ment hang in the Chapter House, which 
also contains the celebrated pictures, 



Belgium. route 21. — Bruges, pictures h. de ville. 



123 



the pride of the city and admiration of 
travellers, painted by Hans ffemling, or 
more correctly Memling, and presented 
by him to the hospital out of gratitude 
for the succour which he had received 
while a patient in it, suffering from 
wounds received in the battle of Nancy, 
1477. The subject of one is the Virgin 
and Child, with St. Catherine ; and on 
the shutters the Decollation of St. John 
Baptist, and St. John Evangelist at 
Patmos : on the outside are several 
figures of saints. The artist never sur- 
passed, or even equalled, this great per- 
formance. The stiffness of the figures 
is usual in paintings of the period at 
which these were executed ; but the 
careful finish of the heads, — equal to 
that employed in the finest miniatures, 
— the exquisite character which they 
discover, and the beauty and vividness 
of the colouring, are rare and truly ad- 
mirable. They were executed in 1479, 
and bear his name. There is another 
small altarpiece by ffernling, also with 
wings : the principal subject is the 
Adoration of the Magi ; at the sides are 
the Nativity and the Purification in the 
Temple. Besides these there are two 
heads by ffemling ; also a Crucifixion 
by Franks, and a Holy Family said to 
be by Vandyk. 

Another not less interesting object 
is the Reliquary or Chasse de St. JJr- 
sule, a wooden coffer for holding the 
ami of the saint, painted by Hem- 
ling. On each side of the cover are 3 
medallions, the smaller of which con- 
tain angels playing instruments, the 
larger a coronation of the Virgin and 
the glorification of St. Ursula. On one 
gable end is the Virgin and Child, 
on the other St. Ursula. On the long 
sides are subjects from the legend of 
St. Ursula and the 11,000 Virgins at 
Cologne. St. Ursula was the daughter of 
an English king ; with a train of 11,000 
virgins, her lover Conan, and an escort 
of knights, she made a pilgrimage to 
Rome. On their return they all suf- 
fered martyrdom at Cologne. The 
paintings are executed with the most 
delicate finish. 1. In the first, repre- 
senting the landing at Cologne, the tra- 
veller will recognise the cathedral, 
churches, and other buildings of that 



city, copied with considerable fidelity. 
2. The landing at Cologne. 3. The 
arrival at Rome ; the Pope receives the 
pilgrims. 4. Return to Basle, and re- 
embarkation on the Rhino. 5 & 6 form 
one picture, the groups and background 
being continued from one to the other 
— the martyrdom of Conan and of St. 
Ursula in the camp of the Emperor 
Maximin, on the banks of the Rhine. 
u These little pictures, are among the 
very best productions of the Flemish 
school. The drawing in these small 
figures is much more beautiful than in 
the larger ones by the same master. 
There is nothing in them meagre, stiff, 
or angular : the movements are free ; 
the execution and tone of colour, with 
all its softness, very powerful ; the ex- 
pression in the single heads of the 
highest excellence." — Kugler. 

The large hall, divided by partitions 
into wards and dormitories, and kitchen 
for the use of the patients, is interesting 
for its cleanliness and good order, and, 
above all, for its antiquity. It is a 
Gothic hall, with rows of pointed arches 
on piers dividing it into aisles, and, 
probably, has undergone no change 
since the day when Hemling was re- 
ceived into it. Admission is given at 
any time except when service is going 
on in the church. 

The Hotel de Ville is an elegant 
Gothic structure, though of small di- 
mensions, built in 1377. The niches in 
front were decorated with curious sta- 
tues of the Counts of Flanders ; but on 
the arrival of the French revolutionary 
army, in 1792, all these "representa- 
tions of tyrants " were pulled down, 
broken, and burnt in the great square 
in a bonfire, the materials of which 
were composed of the gallows, the 
scaffold, and the wheel. At a window 
or balcony in front of the building the 
Counts of Flanders presented them- 
selves to the citizens after their acces- 
sion, and took the oaths, promising to 
obey the laws and maintain the privi- 
leges of the town. The Public Library 
(open 10-3) is now placed in the 
Grand Hall, extending nearly the whole 
length of the building, aud is remark- 
able for its Gothic roof of wood. It is 
well furnished in the departments of 

G 2 



124 



ROUTE 21. BRUGES. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



Sect. II. 



French and Flemish, literature, and 
contains a few curious MSS. Among 
other curiosities is a Missal of the 14th 
cent., and the scheme of a lottery 
drawn at Bruges in 1445 — an earlier 
date than is usually given to the inven- 
tion of lotteries, which renders it pro- 
bable that they originated in Flanders, 
and not in Italy, as is commonly be- 
lieved. 

Adjoining the H. de Ville is the Palais 
de Justice, anciently called Palais du 
Franc de Bruges (the liberty of Bruges, 
an extensive district independent of the 
town) . The back view of this building, 
toward the Fish-market, is curious. 
The Council Chamber of the magistrates 
is particularly deserving of notice : it is 
antique, though the rest of the building 
dates from 1722. It contains a mag- 
nificent chimney-piece, occupying one 
side of the room, carved in wood (date 
1529), including statues as large as life, 
and well executed, of Charles V., Mary 
of Burgundy and Maximilian, Charles 
the Bold and Margaret of York, his 
third wife, surrounded with coats of 
arms of Burgundy, Spain, &c. It is 
also decorated with marble bas-reliefs 
representing the story of Susannah. 

There is a Gothic chapel in the corner 
of the square at the opposite end of 
the Town House, on the site of the 1st 
dwelling of the Counts of Flanders, and 
called La Chapelle du Sang de Dieu, 
from some drops of our Saviour's blood, 
brought by Count Thierry of Alsace 
from the Holy Land, and presented by 
him to the town, and now deposited in 
a richly jewelled and enamelled shrine 
of silver gilt, executed in 1617 by Jean 
Crabbe. This is to be seen in the 
upper chapel, where is a pulpit with 
medallions carved in wood. The inte- 
rior has been recently restored, and is 
not worth seeing. Admission by tariff, 
50 cents. The exterior of the staircase 
leading to the chapel is in a florid 
Gothic, and dates from 1533. The crypt, 
called the Chapel of St. John, is the 
oldest building in Bruges, perhaps of 
the 9th cent. 

John Van Eyck, the painter, who 
died at Bruges, 1441, was buried in the 
former cathedral of St. Donatus, demo- 
lished by the French, which stood op- 



posite the Hotel de Ville. Its site is 
now planted with trees, among which 
stands a vile clumsy statue of Van Eyck, 
being a painted plaster cast of the 
marble statue in the Academy, executed 
by Calloigne, 1775-1830, a native of 
Bruges, and director of the Academy. 

The Jerusalem Ch., in a very re- 
mote part of the town, is only re- 
markable on account of a copy of the 
Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem contained 
in it, from which it gets its name. It 
is a fac-simile of the interior of the 
tomb, and it is recorded that the founder 
of the chapel, a burgomaster of Bruges, 
Pierre Adorner, who is buried here, 
with his wife, made 3 journeys to 
the Holy Land to perfect the resem- 
blance. 

There is an English nunnery here ; 
it was founded more than a cent, ago, 
for 40 nuns, natives of England and 
Ireland. The chapel is much admired. 
Strangers are admitted to hear the ser- 
vice, which is exquisitely chanted by 
the nuns. 



The Academy of Painting, 



in 



the 



Gothic building called Het Poorters 
Huis, originally the factory of the 
Biscayans, Academie Plaets, contains 
some fine old paintings. The most re- 
markable are, — by J. Van Eyck :■ — 1 . 
The Virgin and Child, with St. George 
and St. Donatus ; the donor on his 
knees, holding a pair of spectacles ; 
date 1436. " It has great character of 
nature, and is very minutely finished, 
though the painter was 66 years old 
when it was done." 2. A- portrait of 
his wife is painted in a very superior 
style, and deserves minute attention. 
3. A head of Christ, with the date 
1440. The second figure 4 has been 
partly erased, so as to look like 2, which 
has given rise to the erroneous assertion 
that this was the first picture painted 
by this artist with oil colours, (f 25.) 

Hans Hemling : — An altar-piece with 
folding-doors ; in the centre the Bap- 
tism of Christ ; on the wings portraits 
of the donor of the picture, his wife and 
family ; and on the outside the Virgin 
and Child. This is a beautiful painting, 
remarkable especially for the sweet ex- 
pression of some of the countenances, 
and their elaborate finish. It was 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 21. — BRUGES. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



125 



formerly in the Town-house. Another 
altar-piece hy the same master, but 
inferior to the preceding, represents St. 
Christopher with the infant Jesus on his 
shoulders. The portraits of the donors 
of this picture, and their family, are 
very fine. 3 or 4 other pictures shown 
here are attributed to Hemling, but 
their genuineness is doubted ; at all 
events, they are far below the others in 
excellence. Not undeserving of notice 
are 2 portraits of a burgess of Bruges 
and his wife (1554), and 2 Last Judg- 
ments, by Porbvs the elder ; and the 
Judgment of Cambyses, 2 subjects, by 
Ant. Claessens the elder. 

On one side of the The Grande Place 
stands Les Halles, a large building 
(date 1364), one wing of which was 
intended to be a cloth-hall ; the other 
is occupied as a flesh-market. The tower 
or belfry in its centre is an elegant 
Gothic structure, imposing from its 
height. The view from its top is, as 
may be supposed, extensive ; it com- 
mands the roofs of the city, and a sort 
of map-like panorama of the sur- 
rounding country. The Chimes (§ 26) 
from this tower are the finest in Eu- 
rope, and almost incessant : they are 
played 4 times an hour by machinery, 
which may be seen near the top of the 
tower. It consists of an enormous 
brass cylinder, acting like the barrel of 
an organ, and setting in motion the 
keys of the instrument ; but on Sun- 
days, from 11| to 12, the chimes are 
played by a musician. On the S. side 
of the square, at the corner of the Rue 
St. Amand, is the house inhabited by 
Charles II. during his exile from Eng- 
land. It bears the sign " Au Lion 
Beige." Even in his banishment he 
was not without a regal title, for the 
Burghers of Bruges elected him " King 
of the Company of Crossbowmen." 
(Roi des Arbaletriers.) 

An Estaminet, in the opposite corner 
of the Rue St. Amand, now occupies 
the site of the Craenenburg, historically 
remarkable as having been the prison 
of the Empr. Maximilian, 1487-8, 
when his unruly Flemish subjects, irri- 
tated at some infringement of their 
rights, rose up against him, seized his 
person, and shut him up in this building, 



which they had fortified, and converted 
into a prison by barring the windows. 
For several weeks he remained in close 
confinement, and the citizens kept watch 
and ward over him. The Pope menaced 
them with excommunication, and the 
armies of the Empire were put in march 
against them. Nevertheless, Maxi- 
milian was not released until he had 
sworn upon his knees, before an altar 
erected in the middle of this square, in 
presence of magistrates, corporation, 
and people, to resign his claims to the 
guardianship of his son, to respect the 
liberties of Bruges, and to grant a 
general amnesty for past offences against 
his person and government. He ratified 
this treaty by the most solemn oaths on 
the sacrament, the relics of St. Donatus, 
and a fragment of the true cross, in spite 
of which he broke it a few weeks after. 

The Prinssenhof — the ancient palace 
of the Counts of Flanders, in which 
the marriage of Charles the Bold with 
Margaret of York, sister of Edward 
IV., was celebrated in 1468, and where 
Philip le Bel, father of Charles V., was 
born — is reduced to a few fragments of 
ruined wall included in a private house, 
but retains the old name ; it is near the 
Rue Noordzand. 

The Hall of the Serge-makers' Guild 
(date 1383), with a bas-relief of St. 
George and the Dragon over the door ; 
the house of the English Merchants' Com- 
pany, in which Caxton is said to have 
resided while learning the art of print- 
ing ; the house of Count Egmont, a few 
paces from the H. du Commerce, are 
buildings interesting from age, archi- 
tecture, or associations. 

The Be'guinage, or Convent of Beguine 
Nuns, near the western extremity of 
the town, is inferior in extent to the one 
at Ghent ; but travellers ought to visit 
one or other of these interesting esta- 
blishments. 

The Archers' Guilds deserve notice ; 
in the hall of the Fraternity of St. Se- 
bastian or the cross-bowmen is a bust of 
our Charles II., and a portrait of his 
brother the D. of Gloucester. From 
the tower in the archery ground there 
is a good view of Bruges, 

Service is performed on Sundays in 
an English Protestant Church. 



126 



ROUTE 21. BRUGES TO GHENT. 



Sect, II. 



The Ramparts, extending all round 
the town, are an agreeable walk. 

The principal manufacture carried on 
in the town is that of lace ; but even it 
is much fallen of. 

In the three Latin lines already 
quoted, § 25, this town is said to be 
famed for pretty girls. Bruges has not 
lost its reputation in this respect ; and 
many a fair face and pair of black eyes 
will be met with peeping out from 
under the black hood of the mantle, 
called faille, which is generally worn by 
the females of the lower orders, or sur- 
rounded by the primly plaited frills of a 
lace cap. 

The invention of decimal arithmetic 
has been attributed to Simon Stevin, of 
Bruges. He was one of the best mathe- 
maticians of his age ; he recommended, 
but did not invent, decimal arithmetic. 
He is the inventor of what is now called 
Bramah's press. There is a heavy, ill- 
draped statue of him in the Place de 
Simon Stevin. 

The famous order of the Golden 
Fleece was established by Philip the 
Good, in 1430, at Bruges. In the 
symbol of this institution he paid a 
just compliment to the skill of the 
weavers of Flanders, who, by the per- 
fection to which they had brought the 
manufacture of wool, had mainly contri- 
buted to the rapid advancement in 
prosperity of this country during the 
middle ages. The fleece, therefore, was 
very appropriately chosen as an emblem 
of the power and splendour of the 
rulers of Flanders. During the discon- 
tents which broke out in Belgium in 
the 14th cent., Edward III. invited 
many Flemings to England, who 
brought over with them the art of 
manufacturing the finer woollen cloths, 
previously unknown, and by their as- 
sistance we soon surpassed those of 
Flanders in excellence. 

Six canals concentrate at Bruges, 
from Ghent, Sluis (Ecluse, the port of 
Bruges), Meuport, Fumes, Ypres, and 
Ostend. 

Damme, now a small village, about 
3 m. on the Sluis road, is said to have 
been the port of Bruges, flourishing 
chiefly about 1200; tales are told of 
basins holding 1000 sail, where now is 



a fertile plain. At Damme is a fine 
church, partly in ruins, built early in 
the 13th cent. ; the tombstones forming 
the pavement of the nave are beauti- 
fully carved. 

BRUGES TO GHENT. (45 kilom. = 

281 m.) 

Trains in 1 hr. The Railway Station 
at Bruges is on the Vrijdags Markt. 

The Grand Canal between Bruges 
and Ghent is bounded by high banks 
on each side, and for the greater part of 
the distance is lined with tall trees, en- 
livened by occasional villas and neat 
gardens. 

" Europe can boast no richer, goodlier scene, 
By fertile fields and fruitful gardens green." 

Dante {Infer, xv. 4-6) compares the 
embankment, which separated the River 
of Tears from the sandy desert, with 
that which the Flemings have thrown 
up between Ghent and Bruges against 
the assaults of the sea : — 

" Quale i Fiamminghi tra Guzzante e Bruggia, 
Temendo '1 fiotto che inver lor s'avventa, 
Fanno lo schermo, perche '1 mar si fuggia." 

The Railroad is carried a little to the 
S. of the canal. 

12 Bloemendael Stat. 
10 Aeltre Stat. 

7 Hansbeke Stat. 
3 Landeghem Stat. 

13 Ghent Stat., on the S.E. side 
of the town, which stands principally 
on the rising ground beyond the station. 
The trains leave the station by the same 
rails on which they enter it. On the 
high ground to the 1., on arriving, and 
on the other side of the Schelde, is 
the new Citadel; the church on the 
hill, with a dome, is St. Pierre. 

Ghent (French, Gand ; Flem. Gend ; 
Germ. Gent). — Inns: H. Royal; Poste — 
both on the Kauter or Place d'Annes ; 
H. de Flandre, clean and quiet. 2nd 
Class : Paradis ; Lion d'Or ; H. des 
Pays-Bas, Marche aivx Grains, very 
comfortable, but small. 

Ghent lies upon the rivers Schelde 
and Lys, whose numerous branches, 
traversing the town, form canals in all 
directions : it has 103,729 inhab. In 
the time of Charles Y. this was, per- 



Belgium, 



ROUTE 21. GHENT. 



127 



haps, the largest and most populous city 
of Europe. It contained 35,000 houses 
and 175,000 inliah. ; and that emperor 
used sportively to say that he could put 
all Paris into his glove (gant). The 
circumference of its walls at the present 
day measures between 7 and 8 m. In 
the 10th cent, it was the capital of 
Flanders, but in process of time the 
turbulent weavers, among whom a spirit 
of independence had early begun to 
work, rose up against their feudal su- 
periors, and threw oft* their yoke, or 
obtained from them concessions and 
immunities which formed the origin of 
popular rights in Europe. At length its 
burghers became so bold and warlike, 
that they were able to repulse from their 
walls "24,000 English, commanded by 
Edward I., in 1297 ; and contributed to 
beat the elite of the French chivalry at 
Courtray, in the " Battle of Spurs." 
Their allegiance, both to the Counts of 
Flanders and Dukes of Burgundy, seems 
to have been little more than nominal ; 
since, whenever these seigneurs at- 
tempted to impose a tax which was un- 
popular, the great bell sounded the 
alarm, the citizens flew to arms, and 
slew or expelled from the town the 
officers appointed by their sovereign. It 
did not take long to equip an armament 
of burghers and artisans, who had 
weapons always at hand, and who re- 
paired to the scene of action in their 
every-day or working dress, only dis- 
tinguished by a badge, such as a white 
sleeve worn over it, or a white hood. 
Thus it happened that popular tumults 
were as frequent in the 14th and 15th 
cent, in Ghent as they have been in 
Paris in the 10 th, and rather more 
difficult to quell. On the other hand, 
it not unfrcquently happened that the 
seigneur, aroused by some act of atro- 
city or insubordination, collected his 
forces together, and took signal and 
terrible vengeance. These courageous 
but undisciplined citizens then atoned 
for their a\idacity on the field of battle, 
being moved down in thousands. After- 
wards cnine the season of retribution 
and humiliation for the town: enor- 
mous subsidies were levied on it; its 
dearest privileges were confiscated ; and 
its most honoured citizens and magis- 



trates were condemned to march out of 
the gates in their shirts, with halters 
round their necks, and to kiss the dust 
before the feet of their imperious lord 
and conqueror. The city of Ghent was 
several times forced to make such an 
abject and ludicrous act of submission. 
The immediate cause of its decline and 
ruin may be traced to this spirit of re- 
volt. The citizens, " intoxicated with 
the extent of their riches and the ful- 
ness of their freedom," engaged in a 
contest with their sovereign, Philip the 
Good. It is no little proof of their vast 
resources that they were able to main- 
tain it from 1448 to 1453 ; but in the 
end they were compelled to submit, 
with abject humiliation, heavy fines, 
and loss of trade. 

In 1400 the city of Ghent is said to 
have contained 80,000 men capable of 
bearing arms. The number of weavers 
then amounted to 40,000, and they 
alone could furnish 18,000 fighting 
men out of their corporation. A cus- 
tom derived from that period still exists 
in the town : — a bell was rung at morn- 
ing, noon, and evening, to summon the 
weavers to their work and meals : while 
it tolled, the drawbridges over the 
canals could not be raised for the pas- 
sage of vessels ; and other persons were 
even enjoined not to go out into the 
streets, for fear of interrupting the vast 
stream of population ; while children 
were carefully kept within doors, lest 
thej'" should be trodden under foot by 
the passing multitude. 

Though fallen from its high estate, 
it does not display the same signs of 
decay and listlcssness as Bruges : it is 
still the Belgic Manchester. In 1804, 
while united to France, it was ranked 
by Napoleon as the third manufactiuing 
town in his dominions, — after Lyons 
and Rouen. The Revolution of 1830, 
however, inflicted another vital blow on 
its prosperity. Several considerable 
manufactures are, however, carried on 
here, especially that of cotton. In 
1801 a clever Fleming, named Lieven 
Baucns, brought over from Manchester 
English workmen and spinning jennies. 
The manufacture quickly took root, so 
as to employ in a few yean more than 
30,000 workmen. 00 steam-engines 



128 



ROUTE 21.— GHENT. BEFFROI. CATHEDEAL. Sect. II. 



were employed, not long ago, in the 
town and neighbourhood to set in mo- 
tion the machinery of the various cot- 
ton-mills. But since the Revolution 
many have ceased to work, and several 
proprietors have removed their esta- 
blishments to Holland. 

The picturesqueness of the houses 
of Ghent, the fantastic variety of gable 
ends rising stepwise, or ornamented 
with scrolls and carving, arrest the 
stranger's eye at every turn. (See § 25.) 
Among the chief buildings — 

The Beffroi — Belfry Tower — is one 
of the most ancient in the town, dating 
from 1183. One of the earliest privi- 
leges which the citizens obtained from 
their feudal lords was to be allowed to 
build a belfry, and they long regarded 
it as a kind of monument of their 
power and wealth. It originally served 
as a watch-tower, from which the ap- 
proach of an enemy might be descried, 
and it contained the tocsin-bell, by the 
tolling of which the citizens were called 
together to arms or to debate. One of 
the bells still bears this inscription : — 
" Mynen naem is Roelant, als ick clippe 
dan ist brandt ; als ick luyde, dan ist 
Storm im Vlaenderlandt." The Gilt 
Dragon on the top, which the Gantois 
carried off from Bruges in the wars of 
the 14th cent., as a trophy of their 
conquest of that town under the gene- 
ralship of Philip Van Artevelde, has been 



re-gilt 1851. 



It 



originallv decorated 



one of the Greek churches in Constan- 
tinople, and was brought from thence 
by the men of Bruges who went on the 
first crusade as soldiers of Baldwin 
Count of Flanders. The charters, title- 
deeds, and records of Ghent were ori- 
ginally deposited in the lower part of 
the building ; it now serves as a prison. 

The view from the top is certainly 
far more striking than that from the 
great tower at Bruges ; the watch- 
maker, through whose shop, at its base, 
the entrance lies, exacts 2 francs for 
admission. 

Charles V., when recommended by 
the cruel Alva to raze to the ground 
this town, whose rebellion had given 
him so much trouble, took him to the 
top of the Beffroi, and, showing him 
the vast city spread out beneath, asked, 



" Combien il fallait de peaux d'Espagne 
pour faire un gant de cette grandeur ?" 
— How many skins of Spanish leather 
would it take to make such a glove ? — 
thus rebuking the atrocious suggestion 
of his minister. 

It is, indeed, an interesting prospect ; 
the number of the squares, and width 
of the streets, admit the eye to range 
over something more than mere roofs 
of houses. Besides the towers and 
steeples of many churches, and the im- 
posing mass of the Town Hall close at 
hand, in the distance may be perceived 
the site and ruined walls of the Citadel, 
built by Charles V. to overawe the citi- 
zens. Beyond this, if we continue the 
survey, is the Great Beguinage, with 
its streets and squares ; and, following 
the line of ramparts, still further to the 
left, near the Promenade of the Coupure, 
the Maison de Force, a vast building, 
resembling a wheel in its ground plan, 
with the steeple of the prison church 
rising in the centre. 

The Cathedral of St. Bawm (Flem. St. 
Baefs), though somewhat heavy exter- 
nally, is one of the most handsome in 
its internal proportions and splendid 
in its decorations of all the churches in 
Belgium. It was founded in 944, the 
choir and crypt were rebuilt in 1228, 
and the whole was finished in the be- 
ginning of the 16th cent. The choir 
and transepts are lined with black mar- 
ble ; the balustrades are of white or 
variegated marble, a species of decora- 
tion which, though splendid, yet, being 
in the Grecian style, by no means befits 
a Gothic church : the gates of the cha- 
pels are of brass, and statues and paint- 
ings ornament every vacant space. Over 
the choir, at a considerable elevation, 
are affixed the arms of the knights of 
the Golden Fleece. The last (23rd) 
chapter of the order was held in this 
church by Philip II. of Spain, 1559. 
The pulpit was carved by Delveaux, an 
artist of Ghent. 

The high altar itself is a remarkable 
object, bearing the statue of St. Bavon, 
in his ducal dress, by Yerbruggen. In 
front of it are 4 tall copper candlesticks, 
remarkable as having belonged to King 
Charles I. It is supposed that they 
may have adorned the chapel of White- 



BeJijiam. 



ROUTE 21. — GHENT. CATHEDRAL. PICTURES. 



129 



hall, or St. Paul's church, and that they 
were sold and sent out of England in 
the Protectorate of Oliver Cromwell. 
They still hear the arms of England. 
On each side of the choir, near the 
altar, are handsome monuments, with 
statues of 4 bishops of Ghent. The 
finest is that of Bp. Van Triest, by 
Duquesnoy. 

The 24 chapels in the side aisles and 
round the choir contain pictures, which 
ore here enumerated in order, begin- 
ning with that on the rt. hand as you 
enter the west door ; those in the 5th, 
10th, 13th, and 14th chapels arc pro- 
ductions of first-rate excellence, which 
deserve attentive consideration. 

In the first chapel on the rt. is a 
painting by 67. de Grayer — The Behead- 
ing of St. John. 2. Paelinck — St. 
Colette receiving a Grant from the 
Magistrates of Ghent to establish a 
Convent. 3. Cancer — St. John baptiz- 
ing Christ. 4. Jangens — Our Saviour's 
Body in the Lap of the Virgin. 5. The 
first chapel in the upper church behind 
the choir : Francis JPorbus — Jesus in the 
midst of the Doctors : most of the faces 
are portraits; among them Charles V. 
and Philip II. may be distinguished : 
it is a beautiful painting, but in a bad 
light. 6. G. de Craijer — Martyrdom of 
St. Barbe. 7. Vander Meiren (a pupil 
of Van Eyck) — Christ between the Two 
Thieves. 8. Vander Heuvel — The 
Woman taken in Adultery. In the 
10th chapel or 6th beyond the transept 
is one of the finest works ever produced 
by the early Flemish school — the mas- 
terpiece of the brothers Hubert and 
John Van Eyck (date 1432), celebrated 
all over Europe. The subject is the 
Adoration of the spotless Lamb. In 
the centre is seen the Lamb as described 
in the Revelations, surrounded by an- 
gels, and approached by worshippers in 
4 groups : on the rt. (of the spectator), 
above, the holy virgins and female 
saints ; below, the apostles and saints of 
the New Testament : on the 1. above, 
the bishops and founders of monastic 
orders, while below appear the pat- 
riarchs and prophets of the Old Testa- 
ment (W.J.F.) ; while in the horizon 
rise the Towers of the New Jerusalem, 
copied from some old Flemish town. 



Two of the figures in the rt. hand 
corner of the picture represent the 
brothers Van Eyck. More than 300 
heads may be counted in this won- 
derful production, all finished with the 
most scrupulous minuteness. The 
upper part of the picture contains, 
in three compartments, the figures of 
God the Father, with John the Baptist 
on the one side, and the Virgin on the 
other. The beauty and grace of her 
countenance are only surpassed, pro- 
bably, by some of the Madonnas of 
Raphael. 

Considering the period when it was 
painted, this picture is remarkably free 
from the stiffness of the early school : 
the finish of the faces is most elaborate, 
and the strength and freshness of the 
colours in a painting 400 years old is 
truly wonderful. Sir Joshua says, 
" The figures arc painted in a hard 
manner, but there is great character of 
truth and nature in the heads, and the 
landscape is well coloured." 

Two pairs of shutters or folding doors 
below, and two above, painted within 
and without, also by the Van Eycks, 
originally formed part of this picture. 
The whole was taken to Paris by Na- 
poleon, but the centre portions alone 
have been restored. The 6 most im- 
portant of the wings are now in the 
Royal Museum at Berlin, having been 
originally bought by a picture-dealer 
for 6000 fir. (250/.), and afterwards 
sold for at least 10 times that sum to 
the King of Prussia. The 2 exterior 
lower wings are said to be still in the 
possession of the chapter, but are shut 
up from motives of false delicacy, be- 
cause they represent Adam and Eve in 
a state of nature. 

11. 67. Honikorst — The Descent from 
the Cross ; and, at the side, 67. Crayer % 
the Crucifixion. 12. N, Hvose— The 
Virgin, surrounded by Angels ; on the 
rt. is the monument of Bp. Van dor 
Noot, who is kneeling before the Virgin ; 
opposite is the monument of another 
bishop, who is represented meditating 
on the scourging of om* Lord. 18 
contains a masterpiece of Rubens, but 
not well preserved — St. Bavon renounc- 
ing the profession of a Soldier to enter 
the Convent of St. Amand as a Monk, 

g3 



130 



KOUTE 21. — GHENT. CHURCHES. UNIVERSITY, Sect. II. 



The figure of the saint is said to 
be a portrait of the artist himself. 
" This picture was formerly the orna- 
ment of the high altar of this cathedral, 
but was displaced to make room for an 
ordinary piece of sculpture." When 
Rubens was thus degraded, one may 
conclude his fame was then not estab- 
lished: he had not been dead long 
enough to be canonised, as he may be 
said to be at present. The saint is re- 
presented in the upper part of the pic- 
ture, in armour, kneeling, received by a 
priest at the door of a church : below is 
a man, who may be supposed to be his 
steward, giving money to the poor. 
Two women are standing by, dressed in 
the fashion of the times when Rubens 
lived : one of them appears to be pulling 
off a chain, which falls from her neck, 
as if she intended to follow the example 
before her. This picture, for composi- 
tion, colouring, richness of effect, and all 
those qualities in which Rubens more 
particularly excelled, claims a rank 
among his greatest and best works." — 
R. It was also carried to the Louvre. 
14. Otto Vennius — The Resurrection of 
Lazarus ; very good. 15. Seghers — 
Martyrdom of St. Lieven. 16. A copy 
from Rubens — The Martyrdom of St. 
Catherine. 17. Opposite this chapel is 
the monument of Bishop Van Eersel. 
18. M. Goexie — The Seven "Works of 
Mercy. Descending again into the lower 
church, we reach the 20th chapel. 
Here stands the brazen font at which 
Charles V. was baptized. 20. G. Grayer 
— Assumption of the Virgin. 21. G. 
Grayer — St. Macarius praying for those 
afflicted with the Plague, whilst he is 
himself struck by the Pestilence ; a good 
picture. 22. Huff el — St. Lambert car- 
rying coals on his Surplice to set fire to 
the Incense. 23. Rombouts —The De- 
scent from the Cross. 

Under the choir is a low subter- 
ranean chapel, in one corner of which 
lie buried Hubert Van Eyck and his 
sister, also a painter, who may be said 
to have been literally wedded to the 
art, since she rejected all offers of mar- 
riage in order to devote herself to it. 
This Crypt is reputed very ancient, 
but a large proportion of the low stumpy 
pillars are probably of the same age as 



the upper structure, and added as sup- 
ports to it. St. Bavon suffered material 
injury from the fanatic depredations of 
the iconoclasts in 1566 ; 400 of the 
lowest class of the people, entering the 
church by night, commenced by torch- 
light the work of demolition, dashing 
the images and painted glass to pieces 
with their pole-axes, effacing the rich 
sculpture, and cutting the pictures to 
shreds. Within 3 or 4 days every 
church in Ghent shared a like fate. 
Philip II.' s vengeance, thus aroused, 
brought upon Belgium the curse of 
the Inquisition and the scourge of an 
Alva: — confiscation, exile, or death, 
were the consequences. 

In the Church of St. Michael " is, or 
rather was, the celebrated Crucifixion of 
Vandyk, for it is almost destroyed by 
cleaning. It appears, by what remains, 
to have been one of his most capital 
works. Vandyk has here introduced 
a most beautiful horse in an attitude 
of the utmost grace and dignity. This 
is the same horse on which he drew 
Charles V., which is in the gallery at 
Florence ; the head of the emperor he 
copied from Titian." — R. The picture 
has been so much injured and repainted 
that its original merits can hardly be 
determined. It stands in the X. tran- 
sept, with a curtain before it. Next to 
it is a modern picture by a Belgian, 
representing the finding of the Cross by 
the Empress Helena, whose figure is a 
portrait of the Empress Josephine. 
There are numerous paintings by mo- 
dern Belgian artists in this church. 
The pulpit of carved mahogany, with a 
bas-relief of the Ascension, deserves 
notice. 

The most ancient church in the town 
is that of St. Nicholas, though much 
altered by repairs, conflagrations, &c. 
No other churches in Ghent are of equal 
interest with the foregoing, either in 
their architecture, or the pictures they 
contain. 

The University is a truly handsome 
modern edifice, with a noble Corinthian 
portico, copied from the Pantheon at 
Rome, built partly on the site of a 
college of Jesuits. It was founded by 
William I., King of Holland, in 1826. 
The entrance-hall, the staircase, and 



Belgium. route 21.— ghent. 11. de ville. MARKET. 

tin; amphitheatre, where academic 
meetings are held and the prizes are 
distributed, are very fine, exhibiting 
great taste, and reflecting the highest 
eredit on the architect, M. Roelandts. 
The Museum of natural history is of 
considerable extent, without any claim 
to great superiority for its collections. 
The library amounts to 60,000 volumes. 
The number of students is about 350. 
The entrance is behind, in the Rue 
Longuc des Marais. 

The Hotel de Ville, not far • from the 
Belfry, has two facades in totally dif- 
ferent styles of architecture : having 
been built at intervals between 1482 
and 1620, according to 3 or 4 different 
plans, by as many architects : — one 
is "a florid mixture of French flam- 
boyant and English Tudor Gothic : the 
flat pointed arches are quite in the 
English pattern." — F. S. The elegant 
turret or tribune at the corner, with the 
part adjoining, in the richest flamboy- 
ant Gothic, is by Eustace Polleyt, 
1527-1560; the other facade (1600-20), 
facing the Marche au Beurre, has 
columns of 3 different orders one above 
another. The Congress of Confederates, 
who assembled in 1576 to expel the 
Spaniards from Belgium, signed the 
treaty known in history as the Pacifi- 
cation, of Ghent in the Salle du Tronc. 
The interior of the building contains 
one or two modern paintings, but is not 
entitled to very great admiration. 

The Cabinet of M. von Saceghem con- 
tains some very superior old paintings. 

The Museum or Academy, Rue St. 
Marguerite (entrance at the side of 
the Augustine Church, admission at 
all hours with a fee), has" no good pic- 
tures. These are the best : Rubens — 
St. Francis receiving the Stigmata, or 
5 holy wounds ; formerly in the Church 
of Recollets, where Sir J. R. saw it. 
He says of the figure of St. Francis, 
that it is " without dignity, and more 
he ought surely to be represented with 
like a beggar; though his dress is mean, 
the dignity and simplicity of a saint. 
Upon the whole, Rubens woidd ap- 
pear to no great advantage in Ghent, 
if it was not for the pieture in St. 
Bavon."— 21. The Last Judgment. M. 
Coxie — The Emperor Charles V. land- 



131 



ing in Africa. — Francis I., made pri- 
soner at Pavia, yields up his sword 
to De Lannoy, a Flemish knight. — 
Rough sketches executed with great 
boldness, and made by Gaspar de Crayer 
to decorate the arch of triumph, erected 
on the occasion of the visit of the Infant 
Ferdinand to Ghent. /. Jordaeus — 
The Woman taken in Adultery. T. 
Duchatel — The Installation of the Em- 
peror Charles VI., 1668, as Count of 
Flanders, in the Marche au Vcndrcdi. 
A great number of figures in the manner 
of Teniers. A great part of the collec- 
tion consists of modern pictures. 

The Marche au Veiulredi (Vrijdags 
Markt) is a large square surrounded by 
ancient houses, named from the day on 
which the market is held in it. The 
ceremonies of the inauguration of the 
Counts of Flanders were celebrated on 
this spot w r ith a pomp and splendour 
hardly to be conceived at present. 
Here also was the rendezvous of the 
" Trades Unions" of the middle ages, 
whenever a real or supposed breach of 
the privileges of their guilds or corpo- 
rations on the parts of their rulers ex- 
cited these turbulent spirits, " ces tetes 
dures de Flandres," to rebellion. Here 
their standards were planted, around 
which they rallied in arms. On this 
spot, Jacques van Artevelde, descended 
from one of the noblest families of 
Flanders, but called the Brewer of 
Ghent, because he had enrolled himself 
in the corporation of brewers to flatter 
the popular vanity by ranking himself 
among the people, at the head of his 
partisans, chiefly weavers, encountered 
the opposite faction of fullers, in a civic 
broil, with such bloodthirsty fmy, that 
the presence of the host, which was 
brought out upon the spot to separate 
the combatants, w r as disregarded, and 
1500 corpses of citizens slain by fellow- 
citizens were left on the square. The 
day w T as afterwards marked in the 
annals of the town as Evil Monday. 
It was in this place, 40 years after, that 
Jacques's son, Philip van Artevelde, 
was saluted Ruwacrt or Protecter of 
Ghent, and received (1381) the oath 
of fidelity from his townsmen, when 
called upon to lead them against their 
oppressor, Louis de Male. The story 



132 



KOUTE 21. GHENT. VAN ARTEVELDE. 



Sect. II. 



of Van Artevelde is told in Henry 
Taylor's drama. 

In the Marche au Vendredi, also, at 
a later period, under the Duke of Alva, 
were lighted the fires of the Inquisi- 
tion. Many thousands perished during 
those religious persecutions, which dis- 
persed the best and most industrious 
citizens of Ghent over other lands, and 
struck a fatal blow at her commercial 
prosperity. — In a street close to the 
Marche, called the Mannekens Aert, is 
an enormous cannon, one of the largest 
in existence, being 18 ft. long and 10i 
in circumference, named De dulle Griete, 
or Mad Margery ; it is of hammered iron, 
was made in the days of Philip le Bon, 
and used by the Gantois at the siege of 
Oudenarde, 1382, and again in 1452. 

In the Place St. Pharailde, near the 
Marche . aux Poissons, still stands the 
old turreted gateway, called the Oucle- 
burg, or 's Gravenstcen, the Count's 
Stone (i. e. castle), a relic of the castle 
of the Counts of Flanders, built by 
Baldwin Bras de Fcr, 868. The small 
portion that remains of the building, 
consisting of an old archway and turret, 
is now incorporated in a cotton factory. 
The area within is occupied by houses 
of the meanest kind. It deserves to be 
visited, however, as one of the oldest 
existing buildings in Belgium, and the 
interior contains some curious vestiges 
of its ancient origin. In the years 
1338-9 it was the residence of Edward 
III. and his family ; and his Queen 
Philippa here gave birth to a son, who 
was called, from his birth-place, John 
of Gaunt. An intimate alliance ex- 
isted for many years between the men 
of Ghent, or Gaunt, and the English, 
particularly during the reigns of the 
Edwards. The Flemings were deeply 
interested in procming om wool for 
their cloths ; the English sovereigns, 
on the other hand, were glad to secure 
"the good towns" and weavers of 
Flanders as allies to assist them in 
their designs upon the crown of France, 
and threatened to prohibit the exporta- 
tion of wool when the men of Gaunt 
opposed their wishes, or refused to em- 
brace their cause. 

Jacques van Artevelde, the Brewer 
of Ghent, was a faithful ally of Edward 



III., who used familiarly to call him 
" his dear gossip ;" and the Queen 
Philippa stood godmother to his son 
Philip. It was at his suggestion that 
Edward assumed the title of King of 
France, and quartered the fleurs de lis 
with the arms of England, from which 
they were not removed till the end of 
the last cent. The English connection 
was in the end fatal to Jacques, and 
led to his being killed by the citizens 
whom he had so often led as easily 
as sheep, by his talents, courage, and 
eloquence. In 1344 Edward III. 
crossed over to Sluis at the invitation 
of Jacques, who, relying on his influ- 
ence with the citizens, had promised to 
make him lord and heritor of Flanders, 
But this proposal was distasteful to the 
men of Ghent, who were unwilling to 
disinherit their natural lord ; and, dur- 
ing Van Artevelde' s absence to confer 
with Edward, the popular discontent 
against him, increased by rumours that, 
during his administration of the affairs 
of Flanders, he had secretly sent large 
sums of money out of the country to 
England, was excited in a high degree, 
and " set them of Gaunt on &:Q. ,, " As 
he rode into the town about noon, they 
of the town knew of his coming, and 
many were assembled together in the 
street where he should pass, and when 
they saw him they began to murmur, 
and to run together their heads in one 
hood, and said, ' Behold yonder great 
master who will order all Flanders 
after his pleasure, the which is not to 
be suffered.' As he rode through the 
street he perceived that there was some 
new matter against him, for he saw 
such as were wont to make reverence 
to him as he came by turn their backs 
towards him and enter into their 
houses. Then he began to doubt, and 
as soon as he was alighted in his lodg- 
ing he closed fast his doors, gates, and 
windows. This was scant done but 
all the street was full of men, and espe- 
cially those of the small crafts, who 
assailed his house both behind and be- 
fore." Though stoutly resisted, their 
numbers prevailed. Artevelde in vain 
addressed them from an upper window ; 
the eloquent tongue was now little 
heeded in the frenzy of popular excite- 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 21.— GHENT. CHARLES V. 



133 



merit. " When Jacques saw that he 
could not appease them, he drew in his 
head and closed the window, and so 
thought to steal out on the backside 
into a church that joined his house, 
but it was so broken that 400 persons 
were entered in, and finally there he 
was taken and slain without mercy, and 
one Thomas Denys gave him his death 
stroke." — Froissart. A metal shield 
on the balcony of a house near the cor- 
ner of the Place du Calendre marks the 
scene of his murder. 

Van Artevelde's house was situated 
in the Padden Hoek (Toad's Corner). 
Many military and commercial treaties 
were made with the English by both 
the Arteveldes : they aided each other 
with troops on land and ships at sea ; 
and the connection between the two 
countries was not finally broken off 
until the time of Philip the Bold. 

The marriage of the Grand Duke 
Maximilian with Mary of Burgundy, 
heiress of Charles the Bold, was cele- 
brated at Ghent 1477. By this alliance 
the Low Countries were added to the 
Austrian dominions. A short time be- 
fore it took place the famous Oliver the 
Barber, called Le Diable, was despatched 
by his master, Louis XL, to obtain the 
hand of Mary for his son, or, failing in 
this, to stir up rebellion among the men 
of Ghent. His mission failed, his in- 
trigues were frustrated, and he was dis- 
missed with disgrace, after having im- 
prudently demanded a private audience 
with the princess, which her council of 
state refused, alleging the laws of eti- 
quette, and even of decency, forbade 
such an interview with " cette jeune 
demoiselle qui etoit a marier." 

The Empr. Charles V. was born at 
Ghent, in the palace now pulled down, 
but its site is marked by a street named 
after it, Cour des Princes. It is related 
that he first saw the light in a water- 
closet, which ignoble birth-place was 
afterwards handsomely furnished and 
transformed into a splendid apartment. 
The turbulence and sedition of his sub- 
jects and fellow-citizens of Ghent re- 
peatedly gave annoyance to Charles, till 
at length a more formidable insurrec- 
tion broke out, which, spreading through 
Flanders, threatened to sever the pro- 



vince from his dominions. It originated 
in the discontent caused by his demand 
of an enormous subsidy from the citizens 
to carry on the war against France, 
which was soon fomented into open 
rebellion. Having put the town into a 
state of defence, they secretly tendered 
their allegiance to Francis I, He, how- 
ever, not only declined the offer, but 
very treacherously disclosed the secret 
to the Emperor. Charles was in Spain, 
but no sooner did this intelligence reach 
his ears than he decided upon putting 
down the treason in person. To save 
time he daringly resolved to cross the 
dominions of his rival Francis (with 
whom he had recently been partially 
reconciled), trusting to his chivalrous 
generosity not to take advantage of this 
confidence. Great was the consterna- 
tion in Ghent when it was announced 
that Charles, who was supposed to be 
many hundred miles off, had suddenly 
arrived before the city, and had sur- 
rounded it with a large army. Mes- 
sengers were despatched to sue for his 
forgiveness, but, without granting con- 
ditions, he demanded instant admittance 
within the walls ; then posting guards 
at the gates, he proceeded to take mea- 
sures for chastising the inhabitants. It 
was while deliberating on the punish- 
ment to be inflicted that the infamous 
Duke of Alva suggested the annihilation 
of the whole city (p. 128). Charles, 
however, was satisfied with a cruel but 
less sweeping retribution ; 14 of the 
ringleaders were beheaded, others were 
banished, and their goods forfeited. 
The city was declared guilty of Uzc- 
majeste, and, in consequence, the ma- 
gistrates and principal citizens, the 
chiefs of the guilds and of the corpora- 
tion of weavers, were compelled to pre- 
sent themselves before Charles in black 
gowns, with bare heads and feet, and 
with halters round their necks, and to 
demand pardon on their knees. He ex- 
acted as a further penalty that the 
magistrates should never appear in 
public without the halter. This, which 
was intended as a badge of ignominy, 
was afterwards converted into a decora- 
tion. The rope, in the course of years, 
became a rich silken cord, and was 
worn round the neck as an ornament, 



134 



ROUTE 21. — GHENT. CITADEL. BEGUINAGE. Sect. II. 



tied with a true lover's knot in front. 
By the same sentence all the privileges 
of the city, together with the cannon 
and other arms of the commonalty 
(commune), of the trades, and of the 
weavers' guild, were confiscated ; and 
even the famous bell, called Roland, 
which was convicted of having played 
a very turbulent part with its tongue 
during the insurrection, was taken down 
from the Beffroi. 

As a further check to their turbu- 
lence, and for the entire restriction of 
their liberties, the Emperor soon after 
laid the first stone of the Citadel 
(chateau des Espagnols), situated on 
the E. side of the town, not far from 
the Porte d'Anvers ; to make room for 
it he removed 800 houses from the 
ancient quarter of St. Bavon. This 
fortress served afterwards as a prison to 
the Counts Egmont and Horn; and 
when the Flemings took up arms to 
throw off the Spanish yoke 1570, it was 
besieged by the townspeople under the 
Prince of Orange. It was long and 
vigorously defended by the Spaniards. 
At last 3000 men of Ghent, wearing 
white shirts over their clothes to dis- 
tinguish themselves, attempted to carry 
it by assault Nov. 10. The ladders, 
however, were too short, and they were 
compelled to retire with loss. The next 
morning, while they were preparing to 
renew the attack, the Spaniards sent to 
capitulate. When at length terms were 
granted the besiegers were not a little 
astonished to see the Senora Mondragon 
march out at the head of 150 men and 
a number of women and children, the 
sole remains of the garrison, whom she 
had headed and commanded during the 
whole siege, in the absence of her hus- 
band the governor, assisted by the other 
females. 

The Old Citadel was afterwards le- 
velled with the ground by a decree of 
the States General ; and the citizens, 
with their wives and children, working 
dike common labourers, assisted in de- 
molishing the stronghold of tyranny ; 
but some of the casemates and shat- 
tered walls remain, as well as parts of 
cloisters of the monastery of St. Bavon, 
and a small octagonal Chapel of St. 
Macarius, in the Romanesque style 



(date probably about 1067). It is not 
far from the Railway station to the E. 

The Btfguinage is one of the few nun- 
neries not suppressed by Joseph II., 
or swept away by the torrent of the 
French Revolution. It is of great ex- 
tent, with streets, squares, and gates 
surrounded by a wall and moat. It is 
certainly worthy a visit. At the hour 
of vespers strangers should repair to 
the chapel, where they will have an 
opportunity of seeing the whole sister- 
hood assembled. They amount to more 
than 600, and many are persons of 
wealth and rank. The sight of so large 
an assemblage, all in black robes and 
white veils (the ancient Flemish faille, 
which they still retain) , barely illumi- 
nated by the evening light and a few 
lamps, has a picturesque effect. The 
novices are distinguished by a different 
dress ; and those who have just taken 
the veil wear a chaplet round their 
heads. " The chanting of a small, but 
by no means select choir, in the music 
gallery, derives its interest and impres- 
siveness from the framework (so to say) 
of scenery and costume in which it is 
set. As a whole the service is very 
striking, and should on no account be 
missed." — H. F. C. The sisters live 
generally in separate houses. On the 
doors are inscribed the names, not of 
the tenant of the house, but of some 
saint who has been adopted as its pro- 
tectress. This is the principal esta- 
blishment of the order, which numbers 
in Belgium 6000 sisters. The Beguines 
are bound by no vow ; they may return 
into the world whenever they please : 
but it is their boast that no sister has 
ever been known to quit the order after 
having once entered it. They attend to 
the sick in the Beguinage, or go out as 
nurses into the town, and are constantly 
seen at the Hospital. 

There is an English Church appro- 
priated to the Episcopal Service on the 
Braband Dam. It is the only Pro- 
testant church in Ghent. 

The Byloque (a Flemish word sig- 
nifying enclosure) is the principal Hos- 
pital of Ghent: it was founded 1225, 
and is capable of holding 600 sick. 
Jacques van Arteyelde, it is believed, 
was buried in the church of the Bv- 



Belgium. route 21. — giient. 

* 
loquc, after having been assassinated in 
his own house. It was in the Byloque 
that he Avas proclaimed by his towns- 
men Ruwaert, or Protector of Flanders, 
and here he assembled the men of Ghent 
to plead in favom 1 of an alliance between 
them and Edward III. 

The Promenades at Ghent are the 
double avenue of trees by the side of 
the Con pure, or canal, cut in 1758, to 
unite the Lys and the Bruges canal 
together. Near it is the Penitentiary 
(Maison de Detention), an octagon 
building of vast extent, begun 1772, 
and finished 1824. A pi-ison truly is 
an object which an Englishman can see 
frequently enough in his own country, 
but this is particularly well managed ; 
it was held up as a pattern by Howard 
the philanthropist, and has served as 
a model for many others, not only in 
Europe, but in America. 

The New Cassino, a handsome build- 
ing by Roelands, stands also near the 
Coupure, and is well worth notice. It 
has a literary and scientific, as well as 
a social destination. Exhibitions of 
flowers take place in the lower apart- 
ments. 

The Kauter (a Flemish word signi- 
fying a field), or Place d'Armes, within 
the town, is a large square planted with 
trees, and surrounded by large build- 
ings, among them 3 Clubs — of the mili- 
tary, nobles, and merchants. A military 
band usually plays here on summer 
evenings. The Boulevards around the 
town, anciently the ramparts, are also 
agreeable walks. 

On the Q,uai aux Herbes stands the 
Maison des Bateliers, the oldest house, 
and perhaps the most picturesque, in 
Ghent, having the date 1513. The 
insignia of the watermen's craft (whose 
guild was held here) are carved on its 
gables (§ 25). 

Hubert Van Eyck, the painter, lived 
in a house at the corner of the Rue des 
Vaches and the Marche aux Oiseaux, 
near the Kauter : it has received a 
modern front. 

A splendid collection of enamelled stone 
ware (Gres dc Flandre), and of German 
and Venetian glass, belonging to the 
family Hwjvetter, is well worth a visit. 
Rue Haute Porte, near II. de Ville. 



PROMENADES. RAILROADS. 



135 



Several buildings recently erected by 
the town of Ghent would do credit to 
the first capitals of Europe. 

A New 'Theatre has been built in the 
corner of the Place d'Armes. Its sa- 
loon, concert and ball-rooms arc mag- 
nificent, and they are well worth a 
visit. The building cost the town of 
Ghent 2,500,000 fr. 

The Palais de Justice, another striking 
new building by Roelands, stands in the 
Rue du Theatre, a new and handsome 
street. The ground floor serves as the 
Exchange ; the upper chambers arc 
appropriated as courts of justice. 

The Jardin des Plantes, belonging to 
the University, said to be the finest in 
Belgium, is far from deserving the 
praise commonly given to it. 

The Post Office is in the Rue de 
l'Universite. Vigilantes, § 22. A. 

The modern Citadel, begun 1822, and 
finished 1830, is situated on Mont 
Blandin, which is the end of the high 
land on which the western part of the 
city stands. It is one of the chain of 
fortresses defending the Belgian frontier, 
and commands the course of the Schelde 
and Lys. 

Ghent communicates with the sea by 
a grand Canal which enters the Schelde 
at Temeusc. It gives the city all the 
advantages of a seaport ; vessels draw- 
ing 18 ft. water can unload in the 
basin under its walls. At Sas van 
Ghent, about 14 m. N"., are sluices, by 
means of which the whole country could 
be laid under water. 

Railroad. — Ghent to Courtrai and 
Lille (on the way to Paris). Rte. 15. 

Railroad, Ghent to Mechlin, 56 kilom. 

Trains in 1^ hr. On quitting Ghent 
the Railway crosses the Schelde, and is 
carried along the S. side of it, ap- 
proaching now and then one of its 
sweeping curves. 

7 Melle Stat. 

7 Wetteren Stat. 9000 inliab. 

6 Wichclcn Stat. 

7 Audeghem Stat. Alost is 3 m. 
from this Stat. : omnibuses ply thither, 
meeting the trains (see R. 19, p. 118). 

The river Dcnder is crossed on leav- 
ing the station. 

2 Dcndermonde Stat, (funs: Aigle; 



136 21 A. BRUGES TO COURTRAI. 22. GHENT TO ANTWERP. Sect. II. 



Demi-Lune.) Termonde, or Dender- 
monde, a name rendered familiar to 
English ears by "my Uncle Toby's" 
constant reference to the siege of 1706, 
is a primitive Brabant town of 8000 
inhab. and a strong fortress on the rt. 
bank of the Schelde, at its junction with 
the Dender. By means of sluices the 
surrounding country, which is marshy, 
can be laid under water. Louis XIV., 
who had been nearly drowned, along 
with his army, in attempting its siege 
in 1667, when told that Marlborough 
was about to besiege it, replied, " he 
must have an army of ducks to take it." 
Nevertheless, owing to the prevalence 
of a drought of 7 weeks, the garrison 
were quickly obliged to surrender un- 
conditionally to the English. The Ch. 
of Notre Dame, the oldest building, sur- 
mounted by an octagon tower, contains 
a Crucifixion and Adoration of the Shep- 
herds, by VcrnDyk; a Virgin and Saints by 
Grayer; and an ancient font sculptured 
in the style of that at Winchester, out 
of a square block. The house of Teniers 
is still pointed out. 

9 Malderen Stat. 

10 Capelle-aux-Bois Stat. The Brus- 
sels canal is crossed just after leaving 
this station. 

The Louvain canal is crossed shortly 
before the railway reaches 
8 Mechlin Stat. (See Rte. 23.) 



EOUTE 21 a. 

BRUGES TO COURTRAI. — RAILWAY. 

Bruges. (Rte. 21.) Station the same 
as that of the Ghent and Ostend Rail- 
way. Trains in 2 hrs. ; many stops. 

Thorout Stat. Thorout stands in a 
fertile country. A little coarse woollen 
cloth and much excellent lace are manu- 
factured here. Two annual fairs in 
June and July are held here. It is a 
very ancient town, and at the beginning 
of the eighth cent, is mentioned as a 
place of considerable traffic. It has a 
small Stadhuis and a large collegiate 
church, but neither remarkable. Near 
it is the Castle of Wynendale, once a 
hunting-seat of Robert the Frison, 10th 
Earl of Flanders (1090), and said to 



have been built by Odoacer V., Grand 
Forester of Flanders, in the early part 
of the 9th cent. Here the Bp. of 
Lincoln and his fellow-commissioner^ 
sent by Edward I. (1297), negotiated 
the marriages of Edward P. of "Wales 
and the daughter of Philip King of 
France, and of Edward himself and the 
sister of that monarch. 

Lichtervelde Stat. 

Roulers (Rousselaere, Flem.) Stat. 
This town is seated on a smaller stream, 
called the Mander, amidst very fine 
meadows. In ancient records it is called 
Rollarivm in pratis. The Stadhuis is 
a long ancient building in the market- 
place, in the middle of the town. It 
has a large square tower, apparently 
more ancient than the body of the 
building, at its S. end, and a slender but 
graceful miniature spire in its centre. 
The Ch. of St. Michael is a plain and 
rather small structure, with a very 
beautiful spire. It stands to the rear 
of the "W. side of the market-place ; its 
date must be about the beginning of 
the 16th cent. Some of the best lace 
in Flanders is manufactured at Roulers, 
and a smaH quantity of wooUen stuff. 

Iseghem Stat. The Lys is crossed. 

Courtrai Stat. (See Rte. 16.) 



ROUTE 22. 

GHENT TO ANTWERP. — RAILROAD. 

31 Eng. m., 2 hrs., including ferry. 

The road passes through the Pays d# 
Wdes, one of the most populous districts, 
the best cultivated, and the most pro- 
ductive for its extent in all Em-ope. 
At the time of the civil wars in Flanders 
it was nothing more than a bare and 
open heath. At present there is not an 
inch of ground which is not rendered 
productive in the highest degree : every 
field receives as much care and atten- 
tion as a garden, or" a bed of tulips ; and 
the natural soil, little better than barren 
sand, has been covered artificially with 
the richest mould. (See Holland, In- 
trod. § 17.) Though the country is flat, 
it is far from uninteresting, being varied 
with large villages and neat farms, co- 
vered with beautiful cattle, the richest 




Engraved bv J. & C .Walker. 



rim. 



ROUTE 22.— GHENT TO ANTWERP. 



137 



and closest fields of oora or orops of 
Max, and inhabited by a healthy popu- 
lation. The district of St. Nicholas, 
perhaps the most thickly peopled in 
Europe in proportion to its extent, 
numbers 5210 inhab. upon every square 
league. The mode of farming pursued 
in this district is worthy the attention 
of i very agriculturist. Such a pattern 
of laborious cultivation is not to be 
found in the whole of Europe. The 
land is singularly subdivided among a 
great number of small proprietors. In 
a distance of ;>0 kilometres, 705 plots, 
belonging to 500 different persons, are 
crossed. Each holding averages § of 
a hectare, and is surrounded by hedges 
and trees. 

The castle of Loochristy, not far to 
the N. of the road, is an interesting 
specimen of the domestic architecture 
of the Uith cent. It is surrounded by 
a wide moat, approached by a draw- 
bridge. It was once a hunting-seat of 
the Bishops of Ghent. 

Bienyelde Stat. 

Lokcren Stat, (//in, Quatre Sceaux), 
a town of 16,500 inhab. There arc 
nsive bleaching-grounds here. 

St. Nicholas Stat. (Inn, H. de Flan- 
dres), 20,500 inhab., said to have the 
largest market of flax in the world. Its 
great square is scarcely big enough to 
hold the crowd assembled on market- 
days. 

Beveren Stat. 

Beyond the neat village of Zwyn- 
drecht, the cathedral of Antwerp comes 
in sight. For A years the whole dis- 
trict, and even the high road, lay many 
feet under water, introduced by cutting 
the dykes above the Tetc de Flandi-e 
during the siege of Antwerp. 12 Dutch 
run-beats floated over the polders, or 
fields, which are many feet lower than 
the level of the river at high-water. 
The coming and receding tides covered 
the surface with sand; and the ground, 
saturated with salt water, and deprived 
of all vegetation, for a long time re- 
mained a barren morass, interspersed 
With pools. The industrious efforts of 
the owners have made some progress in 
reclaiming from the condition of an un- 
productive waste this territory, which, 
owing to its natural fertility and its 



vicinity to a large city, WU8 of v iy 

great value. 

Near Antwerp the Schelde makes so 
great a bend as to convert its 1. bank 
into a tongue of land. The only ap- 
proach to Antwerp on this side lies 
along the top of the dykes which inter- 
sect the low polders, and divide them 
from one another and from the Schelde. 
At the extremity of this tongue of land 
is situated the Fort called 

Tetc de Flandre (het Vlaemsche 
Iloofd), Terminus, on the 1. bank of 
the river, exactly opposite Antwerp, 
forming a principal outwork and tete 
du pont to that fortified town. It con- 
tains a few small houses within its ram- 
part. Napoleon considered its situation 
more advantageous than even that of 
Antwerp, and designed to found a new 
city here. See p. 149. 

The Ghent railway station is here ; 
the passengers and private carriages are 
embarked in a steam ferry-boat, which 
plies across the Schelde every £ hr. 
The best view of Antwerp is obtained 
from this point. The Schelde is nearly 
500 yards wide here, and is deep enough 
for a 74-gun ship. The " coupure," or 
cutting of the dyke, by which the 
Dutch laid the land on the 1. bank 
under water, was made a little way 
above the Tete de Flandre, opposite 
the citadel. The repairs of this breach 
cost 2 millions of francs. 

Antwerp (French, Anvers ; Flcm. 
Antwerpen ; Span. Amberes). mnsi 
H. du Grand Laboreur, Place de Meir, 
an old established house ; — II . St. An- 
toine, probably the best ; — II. du Pare, 
also good: these 2 hotels are on the 
Place Verte, near the cathedral ; both 
w r ell managed and much commended ; 
tables-d'hote at 2 and 4£ ; good, and 
respectably attended. 2nd class Inns: 
II. des Etrangers, on the Quaij II. 
d,' Angleterre ; II. des Pays-Bas. 

Antwerp is a strongly fortified city, 
with a citadel, on the rt. bank of the 
Schelde (I/Kseaut, Fr.), whit h is here 
navigable for vessels oi' large burden ; 
the tide rises 12 ft., and the water is 
brackish. The most probable and sim- 
ple derivation of the name is from the 
Flemish words " aen't werf,'* 01 the 
wharf, or i^uay. Antwerp contains 




References. 

(hthe.lrul E«- 

S?Jaajii&r _ Fr 

SfPaul f Dominicans) -Fd 

S'.Uuw^iin D<* 

S* Andre Dd ' 

$'. Antttini- (ChpudtUtSi ..Gf 

S? Ouuies (Jesuits/ F«; 

Must-tun Fe ' 

Hotel de ITUf . ... F.d 

Bourse Ec 

J'ost Office Ec 

Haee Verto Ed 

i'laee tie Meir Er" 

Batons du Hoi .Er' 

Rubens Mouse Er" 

Theatre F,f 



Published by John Munv& Albemarle Street tendon 1849. 



1 .; n ,,av..ll 1 y.'.^^ aJk '" r 



138 



ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP : ITS DECAY. 



Sect. II. 



90,000 inhab. In the height of its 
splendour and prosperity, that is to say, 
in the 16th cent., it is said to have 
numbered 200,000, but it was then the 
richest and most commercial city in 
Europe. Its merchants, indeed, were 
princes in wealth, and their houses 
splendid palaces. No city of Belgium 
presents grander streets and squares, the 
finest of which is the Place de Meir ; 
and its magnificent line of Quays along 
the Schelde are unrivalled in the coun- 
try. The cathedral, near the centre of 
the town, is surrounded by several open 
squares, but there is a want of a main 
street between it, the Place de Meir, 
and the Schelde, to pierce the inter- 
vening stacks of buildings intersected 
by an intricate labyrinth of narrow 
lanes, inhabited by the lower orders. 
An old author, describing the condition 
of Antwerp in the days of Charles V. , 
says that 2500 vessels were sometimes 
seen at one time lying in the river, laden 
with the productions of all quarters of 
the globe : 500 loaded waggons on an 
average entered its gates daily from the 
country. The money put into circula- 
tion annually exceeded 500,000,000 
guilders, and 5000 merchants met twice 
every day on the Exchange. 

The decay and fall of its prosperity 
is to be traced to the tyranny of the 
cruel Alva, under the directions of his 
bigoted master, Philip II. of Spain. 
The establishment of the Inquisition by 
him, and the persecutions occasioned by 
it, drove thousands of industrious in- 
habitants to seek an asylum elsewhere. 
To this persecution England is indebted 
for her silk manufactures, which were 
introduced by Flemish refugees from 
Antwerp, in the reign of Elizabeth. 
Another blow to its prosperity was the 
memorable siege of 14 months in 1585, 
which ended in its capture by the Duke 
of Parma, one of the most memorable 
exploits of modern warfare, whether 
we consider the strength of the place, 
the hearty resistance offered by the 
citizens, who yielded at last only when 
starved out by famine, or the political 
consequences resulting from it. (See 
p. 117.) Then came the loss of the 
navigation of the Schelde, which fell 
into the hands of the Dutch at the 



union of the Seven United Provinces ; 
and the subsequent closing of the river 
by the peace of "Westphalia, 1648, com- 
pleted its commercial ruin, from which 
it was only beginning to recover when 
the Revolution of 1830 broke out. In 
consequence of that event, the most 
profitable commerce which. Antwerp 
carried on with the Dutch colonies is 
annihilated ; the richest merchants have 
quitted it, repairing to Rotterdam or 
Amsterdam ; its manufactures are nearly 
ruined, its docks comparatively empty, 
and its streets deserted. "Within the 
last few years it has recovered a part of 
its former prosperity. 

Antwerp enjoys a high reputation 
from its encouragement of the arts, and 
the eminent artists it has produced. It 
would be sufficient to mention the great 
names of Eubens (who lived here, and 
whose parents were of Antwerp), and of 
Yandyck, without alluding to others 
also great in their way, as Teniers, Jor- 
daens, Quentin Matsys, &c, who were""* 
all natives of Antwerp or its neighbour- 
hood. Trade and commerce have, in- 
deed, deserted it, but their consequences, 
in a variety of instances, particularly in 
the great works of art produced here, 
still remain behind : the power and 
genius of Rubens especially, whose 
masterpieces still exist here, are no- 
where else to be equally understood and 
appreciated. The Academy or Corpo- 
ration of St. Luke, in this city, for the 
encouragement of painting, was one of 
the oldest societies of the kind in Eu- 
rope ; it was founded in 1454 by Philip 
the Good, and endowed by Philip IV. 
of Spain, and may be regarded as the 
cradle of the Flemish school. A colossal 
statue of Rubens, by Geefs, a native of 
Antwerp, has been erected on the Place 
Verte, in front of 

The Cathedral of Notre Dame, one of 
the largest churches and most beautiful 
specimens of Gothic architecture in the 
Netherlands. It is believed to have 
been commenced in the middle of the 
13th cent., and to have taken 84 years 
to finish. It was burnt in 1533, but 
the tower and choir were preserved. 
It was rebuilt the following year. The 
interior is simple and imposing : it is 
500 ft. long and 250 wide, and the 



ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP. CATHEDRAL. 



Belgium. 

effect of the vastness of its lofty choir 
and nave, with treble aisles on each 
side, is assisted by its being all finished 
on the same uniform plan, and left 
open. It was sacked by the fanatic 
iconoclasts in 1566, when its rich altars, 
ornaments, and sculptures, were either 
burned or carried off. In the choir a 
chapter of the Golden Fleece was held in 
1555 by Philip II. of Spain, at which 
nine kings and sovereign princes were 
present, and assisted as knights of the 
order. 

The great attraction in this church is 
the masterpiece of Rubens — the Descent 
from the Cross. It hangs in the S. 
transept, near the door leading out of 
the Place Vertc. On one of the lateral 
pieces or folding doors is represented 
the Salutation of the Virgin ; on the 
other the Presentation of the Infant 
Jesus in the Temple ; and on the back 
of them are a colossal figure of St. 
Christopher carrying the infant Saviour, 
and a hermit. 

•" This picture, of all the works of 
Rubens, is that which has the most 
reputation. I had consequently con- 
ceived the highest idea of its excellen- 
cies ; knowing the print, I had formed 
in my imagination what such a compo- 
sition would produce in the hands of 
such a painter. I confess I was disap- 
pointed. However, this disappointment 
did not proceed from any deficiency in 
the picture itself; had it been in the 
original state in which Rubens left it, 
it must have appeared very different; 
but it is mortifying to see to what de- 
gree it has suffered by cleaning and 
mending. That brilliant effect, which 
it undoubtedly once had, is lost in a 
mist of varnish, which appears to be 
( hilled or mildewed. The Christ is in 
many places retouched, so as to be 
visible at a distance; the St. John's 
head repainted ; and other parts, on a 
close inspection, appear to be chipping 
off, and ready to fall from the canvas. 
However, there is enough to be seen to 
satisfy any connoisseur that in its per- 
fect state it well deserved all its repu- 
tation. 

" The composition of this picture is 
said to be borrowed from an Italian 
print. The greatest peculiarity of this 



139 



composition is the contrivance of the 
white sheet on which the body of Jesus 
lies : this circumstance was probably 
what induced Rubens to adopt the com- 
position. He well knew what effect 
white linen, opposed to flesh, must 
have, with his powers of colouring, — 
a circumstance which was not likely to 
enter into the mind of an Italian 
painter,* who probably would have 
been afraid of the linen's hurting the 
colouring of the flesh, and have kept it 
down by a low tint. And the truth is, 
that none but great colourists can ven- 
ture to paint pure white linen near 
flesh ; but such know the advantage of 
it. I consider Rubens' s Christ as one 
of the finest figures that ever was in- 
vented ; it is most correctly drawn, and, 
I apprehend, in an attitude of the ut- 
most difficulty to execute. The hang- 
ing of the head on his shoulder, and the 
falling of the body on one side, give it 
such an appearance of the heaviness of 
death, that nothing can exceed it. 

" Of the three Maries, two of them 
have more beauty than ho generally be- 
stowed on female figures, but no great 
elegance of character. The St. Joseph 
of Arimathea is the same countenance 
which he so often introduced in his 
works — a smooth, fat face, — a very un- 
historical character. The principal light 
is formed by the body of Christ and the 
white sheet; there is no second light 
which bears any proportion to the prin- 
cipal. In this respect it has more the 
manner of Rembrandt's disposition of 
light than any other of Rubens' s works ; 
however, there are many detached lights 
distributed at some distance from the 
great mass, such as the head and 
shoulders of the Magdalen, the heads of 
the two Maries, the head of St. Joseph, 
and the back and arm of the figure 
leaning over the cross ; the whole sur- 
rounded with a dark sky, except a little 
light in the horizon and above the 
cross. 

" The historical anecdote relating to 

* Rubens probably obtained the idea of this 
picture from a celebrated one of the same sub- 
ject, in the chinch of the Trinita de* Monti at 
Rome, by Daniel ili Volterra, who was assisted 
In it by Michael An^elo ; there is considerable 
similarity in the two works. 



140 



ROUTE 22. ANTWERP. CATHEDRAL. 



Sect. II. 



this picture says that it was given in 
exchange for a piece of ground (belong- 
ing to the guild of Arquehusiers) on 
which Eubens built his house ; and that 
the agreement was only for a picture 
representing their patron, St. Christo- 
pher, with the infant Christ on his 
shoulders. Rubens, who wished to sur- 
prise them by his generosity, sent 5 
pictures instead of 1, — a piece of gal- 
lantry on the side of the painter which 
was undoubtedly well received by the 
Arquehusiers, since it was so much to 
their advantage, however expensive to 
the maker of it. It was undertaken 
1611, and set up 1612. All those pic- 
tures were intended to refer to the name 
of their patron Christopher. 

" In the first place, the body of 
Christ on the altar is borne by St. John, 
St. Joseph of Arimathea, Mary Magda- 
len, &c. On one side of the left door 
is the Salutation of Mary and Elizabeth. 
The Virgin here bears Christ before he 
is born." — R. 

The two doors when closed form a 
single picture, representing St. Christo- 
pher himself bearing the Infant on his 
shoulders, guided by the light of a 
hermit's lantern. " The hermit appears 
to be looking to the other side ; one 
hand holds the lantern, and the other 
is very naturally held up to prevent the 
light from coming upon his eyes. On 
the reverse of this door we have an- 
other Christopher, the priest Simeon 
bearing Christ high in his arms, and 
looking upwards. This picture, which 
has not suffered, is admirable indeed, 
the head of the priest more especially; 
which nothing can exceed ; the expres- 
sion, drawing, and colouring are beyond 
all description, and as fresh as if the 
piece were just painted. The colouring 
of the St. Christopher is too red and 
bricky, and the outline is not flowing. 
This figure was all that the company of 
the Arquehusiers expected ; but Eubens 
justly thought that such a figure would 
have made but a poor subject for an 
altar."— B. 

This picture was taken by the French 
to Paris, and while there underwent a 
very judicious reparation and cleaning ; 
so that it is probably in far better con- 
dition now than when seen by Sir 



Joshua. At any rate, it is the opinion 
of the best judges that his praise of this 
truly wonderful picture is on the whole 
too qualified. He has omitted to men- 
tion the well-known story of the share 
which Vandyck is said to have had in 
the painting. While the work was in 
progress, and dining the absence of 
Rubens, the picture was thrown down 
by accident or carelessness of his pupils, 
and received serious injury in the fall. 
Vandyck was selected as the most skilful 
hand among them to repair the damage, 
and succeeded so well, that Rubens, on 
his return, declared that he preferred 
his scholar's work to his own. Th 
parts restored by him were the cheek 
and chin of the Virgin, and the arm of 
the Magdalen. 

In the opposite or N. transept is the 
Elevation of the Cross, " the first public 
work which Eubens executed after he 
returned from Italy. In the centre is 
Christ nailed to the cross, with a num- 
ber of figures exerting themselves in 
different ways to raise it. One of the 
figures appears flushed, all the blood 
rising into his face from his violent 
efforts ; others in intricate attitudes, 
which, at the same time that they show 
the great energy with which the busi- 
ness is done, give that opportunity 
which painters desire, of encountering 
the difficulties of the art, in foreshort- 
ening and in representing momentary 
actions. This subject, which was pro- 
bably of his own choosing, gave him an 
admirable opportunity of exhibiting his 
various abilities to his countrymen ; 
and it is certainly one of his best and 
most animated compositions. 

" The bustle which is in every part 
of the picture makes a fine contrast to 
the character of resignation in the cru- 
cified Saviour. The sway of the body 
of Christ is extremely well imagined. 
The taste of the form in the Christ, as 
well as in the other figures, must be 
acknowledged to be a little inclinable to 
the heavy, but it has a noble, free, and 
flowing outline. The invention of 
throwing the cross obliquely from one 
corner of the picture to the other is 
finely conceived — something in the 
manner of Tintoret : it gives a new and 
uncommon air to his subject, and we, 



B 



<li inn. 



BOUTE 22. — ANTWERP. CATHEDRAL 



141 



may justly add that it is uncommonly 
Beautiful. The contrast of the body 
with the legs is admirable, and not 
overdone. 

" The doors are a continuation of the 

Subject. That on the right has a group 
of women and children, who appear to 

feel the greatest emotion and horror at 
the sight •• tin- Virgin and St. John, 
who are behind, appear very properly 
with more resignation. On the otlu r 
door are the officers on horseback at- 
tending ; behind them are the two 
thieves, whom the executioners are 
nailing to the cross. 

" It is difficult to imagine a subject 
better adapted for a painter to exhibit 
his art of composition than the present ; 
at least Rubens has had the skill to 
make it serve,_ in an eminent degree, 
for that purpose. In the naked figures 
of the Christ and of the executioners 
he had ample room to show his know- 
ledge of the anatomy of the human 
body in different characters. There are 
likewise women of different ages, which 
is always considered as a necessaiy part 
of every composition in order to pro- 
duce variety ; there are, besides, chil- 
dren and horsemen ; and, to have the 
whole range of variety, he has even 
added a dog, which he has introduced 
in an animated attitude, with his mouth 
open, as if panting ; admirably well 
painted. His animals are always to be 
admired ; the horses here are perfect in 
their kind, of a noble character, ani- 
mated to the highest degree. Rubens, 
Conscious of his powers in painting 
horses, introduced them in his pictures 
as often as he could. This part of the 
work, where the horses arc represented, 
is by far the best in regard to colouring ; 
it has a freshness which the other two 
pictures want ; but those appear to have 
Buffered by the sun. 

M The central picture, as well as that 
of the group of women, does not, for 
whatever reason, stand so high for co- 
lour as every other excellence. There 
is a dryness in the tint ; a yellow-ochrey 
colour predominates over the whole; it 
has too much the appearance of a yel- 
low chalk drawing, I mean only to 
compare Rubens with himself: they 
might be thought excellent, even iii 



this respect, were they the work of 
almost any other painter, The flesh, as 
well as the rest of the picture, seems to 
want grey tints, which is not a general 
defect of Rubens ; on the contrary, his 
mezzotints are often too grey. 

" The blue drapery about the middle 
of the figure at the bottom of the a 
and the grey colour of some armour, 
are nearly all the cold colours in the 
picture, which are certainly not enough 
to qualify so large a space of warm 
colours. The principal mass of light is 
on the Christ's body; but, in order to 
enlarge it and improve its shape, a 
strong light comes on the shoulder of 
the figure with a bald head : the form 
of this shoidder is somewhat defective ; 
it appears too round. 

" Upon the whole, this picture must 
be considered as one of Rubens' s prin- 
cipal works." — i?. It was executed in 
1610, and retouched in 1027 by the 
painter, who added the Newfoundland 
dog at that time. A commission was 
appointed in March, 1849, to superin- 
tend the restoration of these two works 
of Rubens — the Descent from the Cross 
and the Crucifixion. 

Over the high altar of the choir, 
which is very splendid, hangs a third 
of Rubens' s most famous pictures, The 
Assumption of the Virgin. " She is sur- 
rounded by a choir of angels ; below 
are the apostles and a great number of 
figures. This picture has not so rich 
an appearance in regard to colour as 
many other pictures of Rubens ; pro- 
ceeding, I imagine, from there being 
too much blue in the sky : however, 
the lower part of the picture has not 
that defect. It is said to have been 
painted in 16 days" — S. — for 1600 
florins ; Rubens's us\ial terms being at 
the rate of 100 florins a-dav. 

The Resurrection of our Saviour^ by 
Rubens (in a small chapel S. of the 
choir), painted by him to adorn the 
tomb of his friend Moretus the printer. 
u An admirable picture, about half the 
size of life; Christ coming out <A' the 
sepulchre in great splendour, the sol- 
diers terrified, and tumbling one over 
the other; the Christ is finely drawn, 
ami of a rich colour. The St. John 
the Baptist on the door is likewise in 



142 



ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP. CATHEDRAL. STEEPLE. Sect. II. 



his best manner, only his left leg is 
something too large. On the other door 
is St. Barbara ( ? St. Catherine) ; the 
figure without character, and the co- 
louring without brilliancy. The pre- 
dominant colour in her dress is purple, 
which has a heavy effect." — R. Some 
curious pictures by Otto Vennius, lately 
discovered within one of the pillars 
near the roof, now hang in the small 
chapels. 

The New Stalls in the choir, designed 
by Professor Geerts, of Louvain, and 
executed by Durlet, of exquisite Gothic 
tabernacle work, foliage, &c, inter- 
spersed with figures of saints, apostles, 
and scriptural groups, are remarkable 
for their elaborate execution. Only 
about ^ of them are fully completed; 
the figures occasionally betray rather a 
pedantic affectation of an archaic style, 
in long, lean forms, and stiff angular 
drapery. 

The Pulpit, carved in wood by Ver- 
bruggen, is a singular and tasteless piece 
of workmanship, representing Europe, 
Asia, Africa, and America; while the 
upper part consists of twining shrubs, 
and interlaced branches of trees, with 
various birds — mostly of species un- 
known in nature — mere fanciful inven- 
tions of the artist, perched upon them. 
Some of the confessionals are also by 
Verbruggen, as well as several tombs 
and statues of marble in the choir ; and 
the chapel of the Holy Sacrament con- 
tains an altar carved by him. 

In the chapel of St. Antoine is a 
painting by the younger Franck, of our 
Saviour disputing with the Doctors, 
among whom the painter has introduced 
portraits of Luther, Calvin, Erasmus, 
and other reformers. " There are some 
fine heads in this picture, particularly 
the three men that are looking on one 
book are admirable characters ; the 
figures are well drawn and well 
grouped ; the Christ is but a poor 
figure." — .K. 

The Steeple, one of the loftiest in the 
world, 403 English ft. 7 in. high, is of 
such beautiful and delicate Gothic 
workmanship as to have caused the 
Empr. Charles V. to say it deserved 
to be kept in a case ; while, from the 
minuteness of the carved work, Napo- 



leon compared it to Mechlin lace. It 
was begun by the architect Jan Ame- 
lius 1422, and completed by Appelmans, 
of Cologne, 1518. It is not, however, 
to be regarded as a structure solely of 
stone, but rather as a framework of iron 
bars, with bits of stone strung upon 
them like beads, held together by copper 
bolts, the gaps and interstices being 
filled up with plaster, and the joints 
partly covered with lead. The founda- 
tions of the tower descend many feet 
below the ground. It has been care- 
fully repaired and restored at great 
cost. According to the original design, 
it was intended to raise both towers to 
the same height. In the tower which 
is completed there is a very extensive 
set of chimes, composed of 99 bells and 
one very large bell, at the baptism of 
which the Empr. Charles V. stood god- 
father. It requires 16 men to ring it. 
The view from the upper gallery takes 
in the towers of Bergen-op - Zoom, 
Flushing, Breda, Mechlin, Brussels, and 
Ghent. It commands the course of the 
Schelde, the position of the citadel, 
Antwerp itself, and the surrounding 
fortifications, with the entire theatre of 
the military operations of the French 
and Dutch in 1832 and 1833. (See pp. 
137 and 149.) 

During the partial bombardment of 
the town from the citadel in 1830, Gen. 
Chasse's artillerymen knocked off one 
or two small pinnacles of the steeple, 
and several shells fell into the houses 
immediately around the cathedral, and 
are preserved to this day as memorials. 

The tower-keeper (concierge) receives 
75 c. for 1 person, 1 fr. for 2, and 1 fr. 
50 c. for 3 or more. 

Near the foot of the tower is an old 
draw-well, covered with an elegant 
Gothic canopy of iron, which deserves 
notice as the work of Quentia Matsys, 
the blacksmith of Antwerp, who, hav- 
ing fallen in love with the daughter of 
a painter, changed his profession to ob- 
tain her father's consent to their mar- 
riage, and succeeded even better with 
the palette and pencil than he had at. 
the forge and hammer, as his great work 
in the Museum here will testify. The 
figure which surmounts the graceful 
canopy of Gothic iron- work is a knight 



Bilgium. 



ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP. CHURCHES. 



143 



in armour, "with a glove in his hand, 
probably having reference to the glove- 
market, which was once hold on this 
spot. At the side of the W. door of 
the Cathedral is a tablet to his memory, 
with this Latin verse — 
Connubialis Amor de Muliebre fecit Apellem. 

" 'Twas love connubial taught the smith to 
paint."— L. F m. 

The original tablet has been removed 
to the Museum. His body, which was 
interred at his death in a church which 
the Spaniards pulled down to make way 
for the citadel, was re-interred in 1629, 
at the foot of the spire, on the 1. hand 
of the entrance. 

St. Jacques is a very handsome church, 
even more splendid than the cathedral 
in its internal decorations of marbles, 
painted glass, carved wood, and fine 
monuments. The principal families of 
the town had their burial vaults, private 
chapels, and altars in this church. The 
most remarkable is that which belonged 
to the family of Rubens, situated exactly 
behind the high altar. The tomb of the 
great painter is covered by a slab of 
white marble, bearing a long inscrip- 
tion, let into the pavement of the chapel. 
In 1 793, when every other tomb in the 
church was broken open and pillaged 
by the revolutionary French, this alone 
was spared. The altar-piece in this 
chapel was painted for it by Rubens, 
and is considered one of his best and 
most pleasing works. It is a Holy 
Family, in which he has introduced his 
own portrait as St. George, those of his 
two wives as Martha and Mary Mag- 
dalen, his father as St. Jerome, his aged 
grandfather as Time, and his son as an 
Angel ; one of the female heads is said 
to be the same as that called the Chapeau 
de Faille. Sir Joshua says of it, " For 
effect of colour this yields to none of 
Rubens' s works, and the characters have 
more beauty than is common with him. 
To the painter who wishes to become a 
colourist, or learn the art of producing a 
brilliant effect, this picture is as well 
worth studying as any in Antwerp. It 
is as bright as if the sun shone upon it." 
The white marble statue of the Virgin, 
above the picture, of beautiful work- 
manship, executed by Du Qucsnoy, was 



brought from Italy by Rubens himself. 

The entrance to St. Jacques is in the 
Longue Rue Neuve : the lust time for 
visiting it is between 12 and 44, when 
there is no service ; the presence of the 
Kostcr must be secured to unlock the 
chapel. 

In the S. transept is a very curious 
Raising of the Cross, carved in high 
relief, out of a single stone, by Yervoort. 
In the second chapel on the 1., as you 
enter the nave, is a good portrait (oval), 
by Vandyck, of Cornelius Landschot. 

On the outside of St. Paid, or the 
Dominican Church (entrance in the Rue 
des Soeurs JSToircs), is an object deserv- 
ing notice only as illustrative of the 
Romish religion. It is a representation 
of Calvary — an artificial eminence raised 
against the walls of the church, covered 
with slag or rock work, and planted 
with statues of saints, angels, prophets, 
and patriarchs. On the summit is the 
Crucifixion, and at the bottom is a 
grotto, copied or imitated, it is said, 
from the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. 
On entering it, the body of Christ is 
seen encircled with vestments of silk 
and muslin ; while to the face of the 
rock, near the entrance, are attached 
boards carved and painted to represent 
the glowing flames of Purgatory, in the 
midst of which appears a number of 
faces, bearing the expression of agony, 
and intended to remind the spectator of 
the suffering of the souls of the wicked 
in that place of torment. 

Within the church, as you enter from 
the side of the Calvary, on the 1. of 
the door, is a singular painting by 
Tenters the father, representing the 
Seven Acts of Mercy. There is also 
here an excellent and wonderful picture, 
the Scourging of Christ, by liubens. 
" This picture, though admirably 
painted, is disagreeable to look at ; the 
black and bloody stripes are marked with 
too much fidelity; and some of the 
figures are awkwardly Bcourging with 
their left hand."— E. The Adoration 
of the Shepherds is also attributed to 
him, " but there is nothing in the pic- 
ture by which his manner can be with 
certainty recognised ; there are parts 
which were certainly not painted by 
him, particularly the drapery of the 



144 



ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP. CHURCHES. 



Sect. II. 



Virgin." — R. A Crucifixion, by Jor- 
daens, "much in the manner of Rubens." 
— Christ bearing the Cross, an early 
picture by Vandyck. "It is in many 
parts like the works of Eubens, parti- 
cularly the figure with his back towards 
the spectator, which is well drawn." — 
R. The wood- work in this church is 
remarkably fine. There are 8 or 10 
finely ornamented confessionals. 

St. Andrew's Ch. contains a fine altar 
sculptured by Verbruggen, and one of 
the most beautiful as well as singular 
of the carved pulpits so common in the 
Netherlands ; it represents Andrew and 
Peter called from their boats and their 
nets by our Saviour, and was executed 
by Van Hool, the figures by Van Gheel. 
It is a work of high merit ; the figure 
of our Saviour displays a dignity not to 
be expected in this department of art. 
In the 1. transept is a picture of the 
Crucifixion of St. Andrew, by Otto 
Vennius, Rubens' s master; and against 
a pillar facing the right transept is a 
portrait of Mary Queen of Scots, 
attached to a monument erected to the 
memory of two English ladies named 
Curie, who served her as ladies in wait- 
ing. One of them received her last 
embrace previous to her execution. 

The Ch. of the Augustins contains an 
altar-piece by Rubens, representing the 
marriage of St. Catherine, with the 
Virgin and Child surrounded by many 
saints. " From the size of the picture, 
the great number of figures, and the 
skill with which the whole is conducted, 
it must be considered as one of the most 
considerable works of Rubens." " The 
Virgin and Infant Christ are represented 
at one distance, seated on high on a 
sort of pedestal, which has steps ascend- 
ing to it: behind the Virgin is St. 
Joseph ; on the right is St. Catherine, 
receiving the ring from Christ. St. 
Peter and St. Paul are in the back- 
ground ; and to the left, on the steps, 
St. John the Baptist, with the Lamb 
and Angels. Below are St. Sebastian, 
St. Augustin, St. Lawrence, Paul the 
Hermit, and St. George in armour 
(Rubens himself). By way of link to 
unite the upper and the lower part of 
the picture, are 4 female saints half- 
way up the steps. The subject of this 



picture, if that may be called a subject 
where no story is represented, has no 
means of interesting the spectator : its 
value, therefore, must arise from another 
source — from the excellence of ail, from 
the eloquence, as it may be called, of 
the artist. And in this the painter has 
shown the greatest skill, by disposing 
of more than 20 figures, without com- 
position, and without crowding. The 
whole appears as much animated, and 
in motion, as it is possible for a picture 
to be where nothing is doing ; and the 
management of the masses of light and 
shade in this picture is equal to the 
skill shown in the disposition of the 
figures." " I confess I was so over- 
powered with the brilliancy of this pic- 
ture of Rubens, whilst I was before it, 
and under its fascinating influence, that 

1 thought I had never before seen so 
great powers exerted in the art. It 
was not till I was removed from its 
influence, that I could acknowledge any 
inferiority in Rubens to any other 
painter whatever." — R. The head of 
St. Catherine is one of the most beau- 
tiful Rubens ever painted. 

In the same church is the Ecstasy of 
St. Augustin, by Vandyck ; it is, how- 
ever, by no means a faultless composi- 
tion, " This picture is of great fame, 
but in some measure disappointed my 
expectations ; at least, on just parting 
from the Rubens, the manner appeared 
hard and dry. The colouring is of a 
reddish kind, especially in the shadows, 
without transparency. The colours must 
have suffered some change, and are not 
now as Vandyck left them. This same 
defect of the red shadows I have ob- 
served in many of his pictures. The 
head of an elderly woman, said to be the 
saint's mother, is finely drawn, and is 
the best part of the picture ; and the 
angel sitting on a cloud is the best of 
that group. The boy with the sceptre 
is hard, and has no union with the blue 
sky. This picture has no effect, from 
the want of a large mass of light. The 

2 angels make 2 small masses of equal 
magnitude . ' ' — R. 

The Martyrdom of St. Appolina, by 
Jordaens. " There is not much to be 
admired in this picture, except the grey 
horse foreshortened, biting his knee, 



Belgium. BOUTS 22, — Antwerp, museum, rubexs. 



145 



which is indeed admiral >le. Jordaens' 
horse was little inferior to those of 
Rubens."— H. 

The Church of St. Anthony of PaJn<t y 
or of the Capuchins, is only remarkable 
for two paintings contained in it — a Dead 
Christ, by Vandyck ; a Virgin and Child 
a])] tearing to St. Francis, by Rubens. 
" The Virgin and Christ are in a "wretch- 
ed hard manner, and the characters are 
vulgar. There is, indeed, nothing ex- 
cellent in this picture but the head of 
St. Francis, and that is exquisite." — R. 
Church of St. Carlo Borromeo or of the 
Jesuits. The very elegant facade, erro- 
neously attributed to Kubens, was do- 
signed by a Jesuit, Fr. Aguillon, The 
interior was decorated with many fine 
pictures by Rubens, but it was destroyed 
by lightning, with its contents, 1718. 
It was used as an hospital for wounded 
English soldiers after the battle of 
"Waterloo. 

The Museum or Academy of Painting 
occupies the building of the suppressed, 
convent of Recollets, partly rebuilt and 
newly arranged for its reception. It is 
opened to strangers daily from 10 to 3. 
Catalogue, 1 fr. 30 c. Entrance, Rue 
des Fagots. 

It contains a great many pictures, 
brought from suppressed convents and 
churches in the town, wdiere they were 
seen and described by Sir Joshua Rey- 
nolds. The works of Rubens and Van- 
dyck give the highest celebrity to this 
collection. There are no less than 12 
or 14 finished works of the former, of 
the highest excellence, and 6 of Van- 
dyck. 

Here is appropriately preserved, under 
a glass case, the chair of Rubens, Presi- 
dent of the Academy of St. Luke — an 
interesting relic. 

Among the paintings of the older 
masters are, — Quentin Matsys — (136) 
The Descent from the Cross, with two 
wings or shutters, formerly in the ca- 
thedral, considered the masterpiece of 
the artist. It displays the science and 
talent which are evinced in the famous 
Misers at Windsor, and, in spite of the 
stiffness of the figures, is worthy of 
minute attention. " The middle part is 
what the Italians call a Pieta, a dead 
Christ on the knees of the Virgin, ac- 
[X. G.] 



companied by the usual figures." On 
the door on one side is the daughter of 
Herodias bringing in St. John's head at 
the banquet ; on the other St. John 
Evangelist in the caldron of boiling oil. 
In the Pieta the Christ appears as if starv- 
ed to death, in which manner it was the 
custom of the painters of that age always 
to represent a dead Christ ; but there 
are heads in this picture not exceeded by 
Raffaelle, and indeed not unlike his 
manner of painting portraits — hard and 
minutely finished. The head of Herod, 
and that of a fat man near Christ, are 
excellent. The painter's own. portrait 
is here introduced. In the banquet the 
daughter is rather beautiful, but too 
skinny and lean. She is presenting the 
head to her mother, who appeal's to be 
cutting it with a knife." 

Frans Floris (properly do Vriendt), 
called the Flemish Raphael (but with 
little real claim to that honour) — St. 
Luke at his Easel. The Descent of the 
Fallen Angels (132), painted 1524, has 
some good parts, but without masses, 
and dry. On the thigh of one of the 
figures he has painted a fly for the ad- 
miration of the vulgar. There is a 
foolish story of this fly being painted by 
Q. Matsys, and that it had the honour 
of deceiving Floris. (133) The Nativ- 
ity, " A large composition, and perhaps 
the best of his works. It is well com- 
posed, "drawn, and coloured. The heads 
are in general finely painted, more espe- 
cially St. Joseph and a woman in the 
foreground." 

The principal works of Rubexs are — 
(215) a Pieta, the dead body of Christ 
laid on a stone table, covered with straw, 
mourned over by the Virgin, " This is 
one of his most careful pictures, The 
characters are of a higher style of beauty 
than usual, particularly the Mary Mag- 
dalen, weeping, with her hand clenched. 
The colouring of the Christ and the 
Virgin is of a most beautiful and deli- 
cately pearly tint, opposed by the strong 
high colouring of St. Joseph. I have 
said in another place that Rubens does 
not appear to advantage but in large 
works. This picture may be consi- 
dered as an exception." — R. The Vir- 
gin holding tlu> infant Jesus, " who 
stands on a table. The infant appears 

H 



146 



ROUTE 22. ANTWERP. MUSEUM. RUBENS. 



Sect. II. 



to be attentively looking at something 
ont of the picture. The vacant stare of 
a child is very naturally represented ; but 
it is a mean ordinary -looking boy, and 
by no means a proper representation of 
the Son of God. The only picture of 
Christ in which Rubens succeeds is 
when he represents him dead : as a 
child, or as a man engaged in any act, 
there is no divinity; no grace or dig- 
nity of character appears." " St. John, 
finely coloured, but this character is 
likewise vulgar." (219) A Holy Family. 
" Far from being one of Rubens' s best 
pictures ; it is scarce worthy to be con- 
sidered a pattern for imitation, as its 
merit consists solely in being well 
coloured. And yet this is the picture 
which Rubens painted for the Corpora- 
tion of St. Luke, and it was hung up in 
their Hall of Meeting." At least the 
head of the Virgin is pleasing. (220) 
Our Saviour on the Cross, admirable. 
(212) " The famous Crucifixion of 
Christ between the two thieves. To 
give animation to this subject, Rubens 
has chosen the point of time when an 
executioner is piercing the side of Christ, 
while another with a bar of iron is 
breaking the limbs of one of the male- 
factors, who, in his convulsive agony, 
which his body admirably expresses, has 
torn one of his feet from the tree to 
which it was nailed. The expression in 
the action of this figure is wonderful. 
The attitude of the other is more com- 
posed, and he looks at the dying Christ 
with a countenance perfectly expressive 
of his penitence. This figure is like- 
wise admirable. The Virgin, St. John, 
and Mary the wife of Cleophas, are 
standing by with great expression of 
grief and resignation, whilst the Mag- 
dalen, who is at the feet of Christ, and 
may be supposed to have been kissing 
his feet, looks at the horseman with the 
spear with a countenance of great hor- 
ror ; as the expression carries with it no 
grimace or contortion of the features, 
the beauty is not destroyed. This is by 
far the most beautiful profile I ever saw 
of Rubens, or, I think, of any other 
painter ; the excellence of its colouring 
is beyond expression. To say that she 
may be supposed to have been kissing 
Christ's feet may be thought too refined 



a criticism; but Rubens certainly in- 
tended to convey that idea, as appears 
by the disposition of her hands, for they 
are stretched out towards the execu- 
tioner, and one of them is before and 
the other behind the Cross, which gives 
an idea of her hands having been round 
it ; and it must be remembered that she 
is generally represented kissing the feet 
of Christ— it is her place and employ- 
ment in those subjects. The good Cen- 
turion ought not to be forgotten, who is 
leaning forward, one hand on the other, 
resting on the mane of his horse, while 
he looks up to Christ with great earnest- 
ness." 

" The genius of Rubens nowhere ap-' 
pears to more advantage than here — it 
is the most carefully finished picture of 
all his works. The whole is conducted 
with the most consummate art. The 
composition is bold and uncommon, with 
circumstances which no other painter 
had ever before thought of, such as the 
breaking of the limbs and the expression 
of the Magdalen, to which we may add 
the disposition of the three crosses, which 
are placed perspectively in an uncommon 
picturesque manner : the nearest bears 
the thief whose limbs are breaking ; 
the next, the Christ, whose figure is 
straighter than ordinary, as a contrast 
to the others ; and the furthermost, the 
penitent thief. This produces a most 
picturesque effect, but it is what few 
but such a daring genius as Rubens 
would have attempted. It is here, and 
in such compositions, we properly see 
Rubens, and not in little pictures of 
Madonnas and Bambinos. 

" I have dwelt longer on this picture 
than any other, as it appears to me 
to deserve extraordinary attention. It 
is certainly one of the first pictures in 
the world, for composition, colouring, 
and what was not to be expected from 
Rubens, correctness of drawing." 

(214) St. Theresa interceding for the 
Souls in Purgatory. " The Christ is 
a better character, has more beauty and 
grace, than is usual with Rubens : the 
outline remarkably undulating, smooth, 
and flowing. The head of one of the 
women in purgatory is beautiful, in 
Rubens' s way : the whole has great 
harmony of colouring and freedom of 



Belgium. route 22. — ANTWERP, museum, vandyck. 



147 



pencil. Tt is in his best manner." ('2'21) 
The Trinity : Christ lying dead in the 
arms of God the Father. An unimpres- 
sive and irreverent representation of the 
Deity, under the figure of an old man. 
The Christ ia foreshortened Avith great 
skill in drawing." 

(213) The Adoration of the Magi. 
"A hi rue and magnificent composition 
of nearly 20 figures, in Rubens's best 
manner. Such subjects seem to be 
more peculiarly adapted to Rubens' s 
style and manner ; his excellence, his 
superiority, is not seen in small compo- 
sitions. One of the kings, who holds a 
cup in his hand, is loaded with drapery. 
His head appears too large, and upon 
the whole he makes but an ungraceful 
figure. The head of the ox is remark- 
ably well painted." — R. 

(222) A small sketch or copy of the 
Descent from the Cross, in the cathedral 
— good, though perhaps not by Rubens 
himself. 

(217) The Virgin instructed by St. 
Anne. " This picture is eminently well 
coloured, especiaUy the angels : the 
union of their colour with the sky is 
wonderfully managed. It is remarkable 
that one of the angels has Psyche's 
wings, which are like those of a butter- 
fly. This picture is improperly called 
St. Anne teaching the Virgin to read, 
who is represented about 14 or 15 years 
of age, too old to begin to learn to read. 
The white silk drapery of the Virgin is 
well painted, but not historical. The 
silk is too particularly distinguished, a 
fault of which Rubens is often guilty in 
his female drapery ; but by being of the 
same colour as the sky, it has a soft har- 
monious effect. The rest of the picture 
is of a mellow tint." 

(216) The Communion of St. Francis. 
He is accompanied by many of his order, 
and " appears more like a Lazar than a 
Saint. Though there are good heads in 
this picture, yet the principal figure is 
BO disgustful it does not deserve much 
commendation/' It was the design, 
however, of the painter to exhibit the 
Saint in (he act of receiving extreme 
unction immediately before his death, 
his body emaciated by disease and ab- 
stinence, so that, however disagreeable, 
the picture has at least truth. 



(21K) Christ showing his Mounds to 

St. Thomas. The expression in the face 
of the Saint is perfect. "The head of 
the Christ is rather a good character, 
but the body and arms are heavy. It 
has been much damaged. On the in- 
side of the 2 folding doors are portraits 
of the Burgomaster Nicholas Rokkox 
and his wife, half-lengths. His is a fine 
portrait ; the ear is remarkably well 
painted, and the anatomy of the fore- 
head is well understood. Her portrait 
has no merit but that of colour." — /.'. 

Vandtjck— (262) A Crucifixion : St. 
Catherine of Sienna (Sir Joshua calls 
her St. Rosaria) at the feet of Christ, 
and St. Dominick. " A sepulchral 
lamp and a flambeau reversed are here 
introduced to show that Christ is dead. 
Two little angels are represented on one 
side of the cross, and a larger angel be- 
low. The 2 little ones look like em- 
bryos, and have a bad effect, and the 
large angel is not painted with equal 
success to many other parts of the pic- 
ture. The shadows are too red, and the 
locks of the hair are all painted in a 
hard and heavy manner. For its de- 
fects ample amends are made in the 
Christ, which is admirably drawn and 
coloured, and a breadth of light pre- 
served over the body with the greatest 
skill, at the same time that all the parts 
are distinctly marked. The form and 
character are of a more elegant kind 
than those we see commonly of Rubens. 
The idea of St. Catherine closing her 
eyes is finely imagined, and gives an 
uncommon and delicate expression to the 
figure. The conduct of the light and sha- 
dow of this picture is likewise worth the 
attention of a painter. To preserve the 
principal mass of light, which is made 
by the body of Christ, of a beautiful 
shape, the head is kept in half shadow. 
The under garment of St. Dominick 
and the angel make the second mass, 
and the St. Catherine's head, handker- 
chief, and arm, the third." — R. 

(365) The dead Christ, with the Vir- 
gin supporting tin- body on her knees, 
in an attitude of the deep. -st agony; 

Mary Magdalen kneeling. " This has 
been one of the most chaste pictures, 
but the colouring Lb gone. The expres- 
sion of tin* Virgin is admirable ; it 

h2 



148 



ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP. MUSEUM. DOCKS. Sect. II. 



conveys an idea that she is petition- 
ing with an earnest agony of grief. 
The Virgin's drapery and the sky 
being exactly of the same colour has 
a had effect : the linen is remarkably 
well folded."— £. 

(246) Same subject, differently treated. 
The Virgin behind ; the Magdalen, and 
St. John. il The Virgin's head is ad- 
mirable for drawing and expression. 
The figure of Christ is likewise finely 
drawn, every part carefully determined ; 
but the colouring of this figure, and 
indeed of the picture in general, is a 
little too cold : there is likewise some- 
thing defective in one of the hands of 
the Virgin."— R. 

(267) Portraits of Caesar Seaglia, one 
of the Spanish negotiators at the Con- 
gress of Miinster, and of Malderus Bi- 
shop of Antwerp. 

Seghers — Marriage of the Virgin; 
" one of his best pictures." 

Sdiut — Martyrdom of St. George. 
"It is well composed and well drawn, 
and is one of his best pictures ; but 
the saint has too much of that cha- 
racter which painters have fixed for 
Christ. There is a want of bril- 
liancy, from its having too much har- 
mony : to produce force and strength 
a stronger opposition of colours is re- 
quired." — R. 

Ambrose Franck — "The Martyrdom 
of St. Crispin and Crispinius has some 
good heads, but in a dry manner." — R. 

Cornelius de Vos — St. Korbert and 
another Saint receiving the Sacrament. 
(240) The Family Snoeck presenting 
an offering to the Church of St. Michael. 
The portraits are extremely well painted. 
" De Vos was particularly excellent in 
portraits." — R. Of this there can be 
no better proof than is afforded by the 
portrait (237) of the keeper of the cor- 
poration of St. Luke, «. e. the Academy 
of Antwerp, covered with the medals 
and other decorations presented, along 
with the goblets on the table before 
him, to that institution by princes and 
potentates, all of which have long since 
disappeared. It is painted with won- 
derful force and truth. 

Titian — Pope Alexander VI. intro- 
ducing to St. Peter the admiral of his 
fleet against the Turks (a Bishop of 



Paphos) is an interesting picture, in 
the early style of this master. It once 
belonged to the collection of King 
Charles I. 

Tenters — (297) Boors smoking, a 
brilliant specimen of the artist, purchased 
from the collection of M. van Schamps 
for 14,600 francs. 

A modern work (382), the Death of 
Eubens, by Van Bree, President of the 
Academy, looks cold, raw, and feeble by 
the side of the pictures enumerated 
above, but it has the good fortune to be 
highly admired by the citizens. 

A collection of paintings, chiefly of 
the older schools of Flanders and Ger- 
many, has been bequeathed to the city 
by the burgomaster Van Ertborn. The 
very dear and slovenly catalogue con- 
tains no notice of them, though they 
have been in the Museum for many 
years, nor are they numbered. The 
following, which may be found from 
their descriptions, are most worthy of 
notice: — Giotto, 2 small pictures, one 
representing St. Paul, the other a Bishop 
and a Nun. Fra Angelico, an Emperor 
humbling himself before a Pope. Anton 
di Messina, a Crucifixion. A. Diirer, 
Mater Dolorosa. Holbein, Francis II. 
when Dauphin; Portrait of Erasmus; 
of Sir Thos. More. John van Eyck, Por- 
traits of a Magistrate and of two Monks ; 
Interior of a Gothic Church. Margaret 
v. Eyck, Flight into Egypt. Memling, 
Annunciation of the Virgin ; Adoration 
of the Shepherds ; the Virgin in a church 
and a Bishop praying ; Virgin and Child, 
white ; surrounded by Angels, red. 
Jean de Mabuse, Mount Calvary. Quentin 
Matsys, Head of Christ and of the Vir- 
gin. 

The Docks and Basins. — Napoleon 
laboured unceasingly to make Antwerp 
the first seaport and naval arsenal of 
the N., to render it the rival of London 
in its commerce, and of Portsmouth as a 
naval establishment. He well knew 
that the trade of London would to a 
certain extent be at the mercy of a hos- 
tile fleet stationed so near to the mouth 
of the Thames as Antwerp. The works 
carried into execution by him are said 
to have cost 2,000,000?. sterling. The 
English all along endeavoured to frus- 
trate so formidable a design ; and the 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP. CITADEL. SIEGE. 



149 



ill-fated expedition of 1809 to Wal- 
cheren was designed for the destruction 
of these works. Napoleon's estimate of 
their importance may be gathered from 
his own declaration to Las Casas at St. 
Helena : " The works hitherto erected 
were nothing to what I intended. The 
whole sandy plain which now stretches 
for miles behind the Tote de Flandres, 
on the left bank of the river, was to 
have been enclosed by fortifications and 
formed into a vast city. The imperial 
dockyards and basins, the arsenal and 
magazine, were to have been constructed 
there, and those on the right bank were 
to have been abandoned to private mer- 
chants. Antwerp was to rise a province 
in itself — France without the frontier of 
the Rhine and Antwerp is nothing." 
At the conclusion of the peace of Paris, 
in 1814, the dockyards were demolished 
in accordance with one of the articles of 
that treaty. 

The two basins were allowed to re- 
main for commercial purposes, and form 
a chief source of prosperity to the city. 
In 1843, 1560 vessels entered here. 
One of the basins is capable of contain- 
ing 34, the other 14 ships of the line. 
The entrance to them is difficult, 
owing to the strength of the cur- 
rent, which sometimes catches the 
stern of a vessel and drives it ashore. 
The docks in winter are of great service 
in protecting vessels, which, if allowed 
to remain in the open river, would be 
serioxisly injured by the floating ice. 
They are lined with capacious ware- 
houses (P Entrepot), and between the 
two stands a venerable edifice, originally 
the factory of the Hanseatic League 
(Domus Hansoe Tcutonicaa, Sacri Ro- 
mani Imperii, 1568), called the Ooster- 
lings. This building, a palace in extent, 
served as a warehouse and residence for 
the Consul or director of that celebrated 
association of merchants. At the head 
of the inner dock rises the handsome 
range of new Warehouses, 5 stories high, 
vaulted with stone, intended by the King 
of Holland for a custom-house and 
bonded warehouse. The centre is or- 
namented with a Doric portico, but is 
unfinished. 

The Citadel, remarkable for the siege 
which it endured in 1832, was erected 



by a celebrated engineer named Pac- 
ciotti, for the Duke of Alva, to keep in 
awe the citizens. It was long regarded 
as a model of a fortress, especially after 
the celebrated General Camot had 
strengthened greatly its works and ex- 
hausted all his science and skill as an 
engineer upon it. It withstood, under 
his command, a blockade of 4 months 
in 1814, and was at length yielded 
up to the British under General Gra- 
ham. 

The siege of 1832 began Nov. 29 and 
ended Jan. 23, when the garrison sur- 
rendered themselves prisoners of war. 
The whole French force in Belgium, 
under the command of Marshal Gerard, 
may be estimated at 66,400 men — the 
troops actually employed in the siege at 
55,000. Such a numerous army and 
tremendoiis train of artillery were pro- 
bably never before brought to the siege 
of a fortress of so small extent, and 
were far greater than necessary to re- 
duce such a place according to the usual 
practice of war. The troops in the 
trenches were commanded by the late 
Duke of Orleans, and the chief engineer 
was General Haxo. The Belgians were 
allowed to fire the first gun from Fort 
Montebello. The Lunette St. Laurent, 
the part nearest the town, was first at- 
tacked, and was taken on the 14th. On 
the 21st batteries began to breach the 
Bastion de Toledo. On the 23rd the 
breach was nearly practicable, when 
General Chasse sent a flag of truce and 
the garrison surrendered. The total 
loss sustained by the town on this oc- 
casion has been estimated at nearly 
4,000,000 guilders. 

The number of the Dutch garrison 
under the veteran Chasse amounted to 
4500 men, with 145 pieces of ordnance. 
The French had 223 guns — an over-' 
whelming weight of metal. The trenches 
dug by them measured between 8 and 
9 English m., and no less than 63,000 
projectiles were thrown by them, so 
that every wall or building within the 
fortress was all but razed to the 
ground ; even many of the casemates 
and other parts which had been con- 
sidered bomb-proof were shattered, 
and the subterraneous galleries, used 
as an hospital, threatened to full and 



150 



ROUTE 22. — ANTWERP. H. DE VILLE. 



Sect. II. 



crush the "wounded and dying deposited 
in them towards the end of the siege. 
In looking afterwards at the solid walls 
rent from top to : bottom and tottering, 
itmight have been supposed that nothing 
but an earthquake could have caused 
such total desolation. The whole in- 
terior space presented a mass of ruins, 
the very ground being furrowed and 
ploughed up by the shot and shells ; 
and, to use the words of an eye-witness, 
there was not a foot's space of ground 
or building that was not shattered or 
pierced. Of the little Gothic chapel 
which stood within the citadel scarcely 
any part remained whole. 

In a military point of view the in- 
juries done to the outer fortifications, 
excepting the breach, were not consi- 
derable. They have all been repaired, 
and a new demi-lune has been erected 
to strengthen the works. Admission to 
see the citadel may be obtained by ap- 
plication through a laquais de place at 
the Hotel de Ville. At present no 
traces of the siege remain, except in 
the absence of the houses, barracks, and 
church, which previously filled the in- 
terior. The only objects worth notice 
are — the confined casemate in the Bas- 
tion Duque, originally used as a prison 
for galley-slaves, in which General 
Chasse was lodged for a month, deprived 
of the light of day, and the temporary 
Hospital, erected by the Dutch, con- 
sisting of a bomb-proof roof of earth 8 
ft. thick, supported on planks by nu- 
merous trunks of trees 6 ft. high, with 
sloping beams of wood at the sides, in- 
stead of walls. 

There is a large Theatre, splendidly 
fitted up, but open only part of the 
year. 

The Hotel de Ville (1581), in the 
Grande Place, is not equal in splendour 
to those of Ghent, Brussels, or Louvain, 
but is still a handsome edifice, of 
Italian architecture, designed by Corn, 
de Vriendt (Floris), ornamented exter- 
nally with the 5 orders, one over the 
other. It contains, in the Passport 
Office, a painting of the Judgment of 
Solomon, by P. Floris; in the Salle 
des Manages, a richly carved chimney- 
piece, representing the Marriage at 
Cana ; in the Salle de Justice, another, 



an elegant work in the style of the Re- 
naissance ; and the town Library. 

The Bourse, built in 1531, is inte- 
resting, because it was " there where 
merchants most did congregate " in the 
times when the whole world's trade was 
carried on in it. Sir Thomas Gresham, 
who resided at Antwerp (1550) as 
British Agent, chose it as a model 
for the Royal Exchange in London. 
Round the inner court runs a species 
of cloister, supported by columns of 
florid Gothic, not without beauty. The 
English established a connection with 
Antwerp at an early period : they had 
an Exchange of their own here, which 
still exists, retaining the name Engelsclie 
Beurs. Edward III. visited the city in 
1338, and a son borne to him here by 
Queen Philippa was named Lionel of 
Antwerp in consequence. 

Other antique buildings worthy of 
notice are, the Maison du Geant, Rue 
des N&ttes, long occupied by the 
knights of the Teutonic Order ; in the 
same street, a chapel, of the 15th cent., 
in the house of M. van Cannaert ; 
the Vieilles Boucheries (1505), near St. 
Paul's church, now a corn warehouse. 
The Council Room of the Brewers' 
Company is remarkable as one of the 
few which have escaped modern changes. 
It retains its original fireplace and fur- 
niture, and is still hung with stamped 
and gilt leather, and lighted by chan- 
deliers, all dating from the end of the 
17th cent. A chef-d'oeuvre of Jor- 
daens is over the fireplace, which was 
painted for the place in which it now 
hangs^ 

There is a fine collection of paint- 
ings and antiquities belonging to Mdlle. 
Herry, Everdyk Street. 

The Post Office is in the Place Yerte, 
next door to the Hotel du Pare. Letters 
may now be posted at the branch offices 
(Bourse, &c), as at Brussels. 

The house in which Rubens resided 
and died was situated in the Rue de 
Rubens, No. 1450, not far from the 
Palais du Roi. The screen, of rich 
Italian architecture, with the archway 
leading into the garden, was designed 
by Rubens himself. In the garden 
stands the pavilion where he painted, 
and the stone table at which he s<*t, 



Btlgium. 



ROUTK 22A. — ANTWERP TO TURNHOUT. 



151 



The loyal Duke of Newcastle (the 
horseman), having quitted England in 
disgust after the battle of Marston 
.Moor, resided in this house, which he 
rented of Rubens's widow, and enter- 
tained here Charles II. and other re- 
fugee cavaliers. 

The Quai, extending hy the side of 
the Sehelde more than a mile, forms 
an agreeable promenade. At the en- 
trance of a street is a Triumphal Arch, 
erected (1624) in honour of Philip IV. 
of Spain, 

" Cui Tamils, ot Ganges, Rhenus cui servit et 
Indus." 

On the Porte de Malines is inscribed 
in large letters S. P. Q. A. (Senatus 
Populusque Antverpia;) — a poor conceit, 
but adopted by all the Belgian cities in 
their prosperous days. 

The Place de Meir should he seen on 
market-day (Friday), when it presents 
a most lively scene, crowded with 
country-women in the picturesque Fle- 
mish costume. 

English Service is performed twice 
every Sunday and Holidays, at a church 
in the Rue des Tanneurs, at -j to 11 a.m. 
and 3 p.m. 

Max Kornicker, a respectable book- 
seller, has a shop in the Hue des Tan- 
neurs, No. 1054, near the Place de Meir. 

" liaillie's Indian Warehouse is worth 
visiting ; the traveller will there sec 
the best specimens of the black silk 
for which Antwerp has always been 
celebrated, of which the mantillas arc 
made. It is sold by weight: the richest 
quality, about 1£ English yard wide, 
costs about 25 f. the Flemish ell. The 
colour docs not change even on the ap- 
plication of lemon juice. Mr. Baillie 
p obsesses a fine collection of paintings 
of the Dutch and Flemish schools." 

British and American (U.S.) Consuls 
reside at Antwerp. 

A Canal, capable of admitting vessels 
of 70 tons, runs from Antwerp, through 
the desolate district of heath and mo- 
rass ealled the Campine, to Herrenthals, 
a distance of 10 leagues. 

Ratltvaya ($ 22).— To Malines, Brus- 
sels, Liege: terminus outside the Porte 

BorgerhoXrt J omnibuses call at the 
hotels to convey passengers to anil fro 
(See lite. 2:5) ;— to Ghent : terminus 



beyond the Sehelde, at the Tete de 
Flandres. 

Steamers to Rotterdam daily in sum- 
mer, in 9 or 10 his. (lite. 18) ; to Lon- 
don, Sun., "Wed., and Thurs. 

\'i'/i/(intes (cabs) stand in the Place 
Verto and Place de Meir : fare ^ fr. 
for a drive within the walls : or by 
hour, li and 1 fr. (§ 22a.) 

ROUTE 22 a. 

ANTWERP TO TURNHOUT AND THE BEL- 
GIAN PAUPER COLONIES, AND ROUND 
TO LOUVA1X. 

Diligence daily to Turnhout. 

The road traverses a wide district of 
heath, much of which is \xnrcclaimcd, 
but at first it passes many pretty villas ; 
the waste begins about 8 m. from 
Antwerp. 

A little way short of Wcstmael is 
the convent of the monks of La Trappe, 
who have reclaimed an estate of 400 
acres from the barren heath. It is a 
plain building, somewhat like a work- 
house. The brothers, nearly 60 in 
number, observe the strict rule of the 
order, in preserving silence, passing the 
night in prayer, &c. The garden is 
also the burial-ground, and a grave lies 
always open to receive him who is next 
to drop. Cleanliness is little attended 
to. 

Wcstmael. About 7 m. N.E. of this 
is Wortel, a pauper colony established 
by the Dutch government in 1S22, and 
containing 460 inhab. It stands in the 
midst of a heath. " It was placed, at 
its foundation, under the direction of 
Capt. Van den Bosch, brother to the 
General, and the plan of operation was 
similar to that of Frederiksord. (See 
lite. 7.) The company at Wortel con- 
tracted to maintain 1000 paupers for 
35 florins each per ann. ; other paupers 
were afterwards taken. Another pauper 
settlement was undertaken by one per- 
son near Bruges, who also agreed with 

government to maintain 1000 paupexs 
tor 36 florins each per ann. ; but whether 
from the separation of Belgium from 

Holland, or whether the pauper colon- 
ists, chiefly idle vagrants sent from 
Brussels, being of an inferior cl 



152 



ROUTE 23. — ANTWERP TO BRUSSELS. 



Sect. II. 



certain, however, it is, that the pauper 
settlements in Belgium are far behind 
the colony of Frederiksord in prospe- 
rity." — Commerce Statistics. 4 m. be- 
yond is Merxplas, a colonie forcee, to 
which convicts are sent, and are com- 
pelled to work. 

Turnhout. Inn — Porte d'Or, clean, 
small, and cheap. 

12 m. S. of this, in the midst of the 
desolate tract of moor and heath called 
the Campine, is Gheel, a village of 
7500 inhab., a large part of whom are 
occupied in taking charge of lunatics 
sent hither from various parts of Bel- 
gium, amounting to 700 or 800. Some 
are sent hither by their friends — the 
paupers are supported by the govern- 
ment or their parish. The native pea- 
sants here have for generations devoted 
themselves to this charge. The mild 
system of treating lunacy has long pre- 
vailed here. St. Dympna, the patron 
saint of lunatics, was an Irishwoman, 
a daughter of a king of that island ; and 
she is said to have suffered martyrdom 
here by the hand of her father, from 
whom she had fled in order to devote 
herself to devotion and celibacy, in 
company with a Christian priest named 
Gerebernus. From the cures wrought 
upon pilgrims to her shrine Gheel be- 
came famous for the treatment of men- 
tal diseases. The Church, dedicated to 
her, contains her altar, at which is some 
curious and elaborate carving in stone 
and oak, representing the legends of the 
saint and a crucifixion. The altar-piece, 
surmounted by the Holy Bood, is in 
the style of some of the retabhs of the 
churches in Spain. A tabernacle con- 
tains some of her relics. Here is also 
a sculptured monument to a Count de 
Merode and his Countess, 1550, resem- 
bling that of Sir F. de Vere in "West- 
minster Abbey, being supported by 
marble figures at the corners. 

The road runs hence' S. about 8 m. 
to Vesterloo, where it crosses the river 
Keethe ; and about 10 m. farther, just 
after crossing the Demer, is the village 
of Aerschot. In the Church here is a 
rood-screen or Jub€, remarkable not only 
for its elaborate execution, but also for 
the excellent preservation of not only 
the tracery but even its numerous bas- 



reliefs and statuettes, all in a good style 
of art. The chandelier in front of the 
screen is a work of Quentin Matsys 7 
presented by him to the church as a 
memorial of his wife, to hang over her 
grave in the aisle in which she is buried. 
It is a frame of metal rods, set with 
flames or flowers of hammered metal. 
About 12 m. from Aersehot is Lou vain. 
(See Bte. 26.) 

BOUTE 23. 

ANTWERP TO BRUSSELS. — RAILWAY, BY 
MECHLIN. 

44 kilom. = 27 J Eng. m. Trains in 
40 min. to Mechlin, and in 35 thenee to 
Brussels. 

Bt. is the village of Berehem, the 
head-quarters of the French general, 
Marshal Gerard, during the siege. In 
the orchards and gardens on the rt. the 
French commenced the trenches by 
which the approach to the citadel was 
effected. 

Many pretty country seats and gar- 
dens of the merchants and citizens of 
Antwerp lie near the railroad. 

Yieux Dieu (Oude God) Stat. 

Contich Stat.— The village (3500 in- 
hab.) lies to the W. j not far from it ap- 
pears the Gothic castle of Ter Elst. 

Duffel Stat. — The town is on the 1. 
At Liere (13,500 inhab.), 1J m. distant 
(no inn, but a pot-house), the noble CA. 
of St. Gommaire contains an exquisite 
flamboyant rood-loft, restored in a credit- 
able manner. Observe — The Marriage 
of the Virgin, a fine work of Memling, 
a gift to the eh. from the Archduke 
Philip of Aiistria — some fine painted 
glass at the E. end of the ch. — and the 
shrine of St. Gomes. Beyond Duffel 
the river Neethe is crossed. 

rt. At the entrance of the village of 
Waelhem, about 2 m. on this side of 
Mechlin, the remains of a low rampart 
or fortification may be seen on either 
side of the road. This is a relie of the 
struggle between the Dutch and Bel- 
gians, 1830-31. The narrow wooden 
bridge was the scene of a sharp skir- 
mish, in which the insurgent Belgians 
succeeded in driving the retreating army 
of the Dutch from a strong position and 
compelled them to retire under the walls 
of Antwerp. 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 23. — MECHLIN. CATHEDRAL. 



1.53 



Mechlin Stat., where the trains 
stop for a few mm., is the point of de- 
parture from which 4 linos of railway 
ramify through Belgium. Those are 
called in the tilne-tahles, IAgne du Xord, 

which Leads to Antwerp ; Ligne deV Est, 
to Louvain, liege, Vervieraj Ligne 
de VOuest) to Ghent, Bruges, and Os- 
tend ; Ligne dn Midi, to Brussels, and 
thence to Mons, Charlcroi, and Naniur, 
or to Lille. There is almost invariably 
great confusion, and frequently delay 
here, from the meetings of the trains. 
Travellers should take care they arc not 
put into the wrong train, and that they 
are not run over in crossing the numer- 
ous lines of rails. Sheds, at least, 
ought to be constructed to protect pas- 
sengers and their'baggage from the rain. 
Mechlin is equi-distant from Antwerp, 
Brussels, and Louvain. A handsome 
approach has been made from the rail- 
way stat. into the town (5min. walk)- 

MECHLIN (Fr., Malines; Flem., Me- 
chclcn ; Genu., Mccheln). Inns : H. 
St. Jacques; La Grue, in the Grande 
Place. Mechlin is situated on the Dyle, 
and has 29,660 inhab. It is one of the 
most picturesque Flemish cities, from 
the quaint architecture of its houses 
and the multitude of signs over the 
shops, but presents now a deserted as- 
pect. The railway was planned to 
traverse the midst of the city, but the 
magistrates (gaudet Mechlinia stultis, 
§ 25), like the wise men of Northamp- 
ton, Oxford, and Maidstone, stoutly re- 
sisted this, and with success. Now 
few of the millions who pass this city 
annually enter it, and still fewer stop 
here. Mechlin is the see of the Belgian 
Primate. 

The Cathedral, dedicated to St. Rum- 
bold (the choir finished in 1451, the 
nave in 1437), deserves to be visited. 
The interior is large and lofty. It has 
a carved pulpit, representing the Con- 
version of St. Paul, with the fallen 
saint and his fallen horse below ; and an 
altar-piece in the N. transept, by Van- 
dyck, of the Crucifixion, painted after 
his return from Italy. " This, perhaps, 
is the most capital of all his works, in 
respect to the variety and extensiveness 
of the design, and the judicious disposi- 
tion of the whole. In the efforts which 



the thieves make to disengage them- 
selves from the CrOSS he has success- 
fully encountered the difficulty of the 
art, and the expression of grief and re- 
signation in the Virgin is admirable. 
Upon the whole, this maybe considered 
as one of the first pictures in the world, 
and gives the highest idea of Yandyck's 
powers : it shows that he had truly a 
genius for history painting, if it had 
not been taken off by portraits. The 
colouring of this picture is certainly not 
of the brightest kind, but it seems as 
well to correspond with the subject as 
if it had the freshness of Rubens. St. 
John is a mean character, the only weak 
part in the picture, unless we add an- 
other circumstance, though but a minute 
one — the hair of the Magdalen, at the 
foot of Christ, is too silky, and in- 
deed looks more like silk drapery than 
hair." — R. The picture was carefully 
cleaned in 1848, and seems to have been 
little retouched. In the side chapels, 
around the choir, are 25 paintings by 
Michel Coexie, or at least of his time, 
representing events in St. Rumbold's 
life — very curious. The organ possesses 
a rich and full body of tone. 

The massive though unfinished 
Tower, begun 1452, is 348 ft. high, that 
is, only 18 ft. lower than the cross of 
St. Paul's : had the steeple been com- 
pleted, it would have been 640 ft. high. 
A story is told of an alarm being given 
in the town that the tower was on fire ; 
but, when fire-engines were brought 
and the inhabitants had flocked together 
in haste to put out the conflagration, it 
was found to be nothing more than the 
light of the moon shining through the 
Gothic open work. This, which was 
probably only a malicious joke, has 
given rise to a sort of proverb, not at 
all relished by thoso to whom it is ap- 
plied — " The wise men of Mechlin tried 
to extingmsh the moon." 

This church was built with the money 
obtained by the sale of indulgences to 
pilgrims, who flocked hither in 14.V_>, to 
celebrate a Jubilee proclaimed by the 
Pope throughout Christendom, o\\ the 
occasion of the war against the Turks. 

In the Grande Place, in which the ca- 
thedral stands, are several ancient build- 
ings, — Les Holies, with a turret, date 

h3 



154 



ROUTE 23. — MECHLIN. CHURCHES, 



Sect. II. 



1340, and the Town Hall, called Beyard, a 
structure of the 1 5th cent. In the midst 
is a statue of Jeanne de Brabant, by 
Geefs, surrounded by elegant iron- work. 

In the Church of St. John is a very 
famous altar-piece with wings by Bu- 
bens, composed of the following pieces : 
The Adoration of the Magi. " A large 
and rich composition; but there is a 
want of force in the Virgin and Child 
— they appear of a more shadowy sub- 
stance than the rest of the picture, 
which has his usual solidity and rich- 
ness. One of the Kings holds an in- 
cense vase. This circumstance is men- 
tioned to distinguish this picture from 
the many others which Bubens has 
painted of this subject. On the inside 
of one of the doors is the Decollation of 
St. John the Baptist ; on the other, St. 
John the Evangelist in the caldron of 
boiling oil. The figures which are put- 
ting him into the caldron want energy, 
which is not a common defect of Bu- 
bens. The character of the head of the 
Saint is vulgar, which, indeed, in him 
is not an uncommon defect. The whole 
is of a meUow and rich colouring, On 
the outside of those doors are John bap- 
tizing Christ, and St. John the Evan- 
gelist in the Isle of Patmos writing the 
Apocalypse. Both of these are in his 
best manner. The Eagle of St. John is 
remarkably weB painted. The Baptism 
is much damaged." — -M. 

Sir Joshua mentions ;8 small paintings 
in panels under these, aU by Bubens, 
but showing little merit, except faciBty 
of hand. The subjects were the Cruci- 
fixion, the Nativity, and Besurrection. 
The first alone remains ; the others, it 
is believed, were not returned with 
the rest of the pictures from Prance. 
" Bubens was paid for these 8 pic- 
tures 1800 florins of Brabant, about 
1801. English, as appears by the receipt 
in his own handwriting, still preserved 
in the sacristy, and the whole was be- 
gun and finished in 18 days." — B. 

The elegant Gothic Ch, of Notre 
Dame, passed on the 1. hand in coming 
from the railway, contains behind the 
high altar the Miraculous Draught of 
Pishes, by Rubens, painted for the Guild 
of Fishmongers, and considered one of 
his most masterly works. His excel- 



lence of colour and rivalry of the "Vene- 
tian school are nowhere more conspicu- 
ous than in this picture. It ought not 
to be passed over unseen, On the 
wings or shutters are painted — The 
Tribute Money taken from the mouth of 
the fish ; Tobias and the Pish ; Peter, 
Andrew, James, and John,, the 4 dis- 
ciples who were fishermen. Beneath 
these were three smaB pictures which 
also disappeared with the French. Bu- 
bens painted these 8 subjects in 10 days 
for 1000 florins. 

There is another Church of Notre 
Dame here, caBed De Ranswyk. It 
owed its existence to a statue of the 
Virgin which floated up the river against 
the stream by miraculous agency tiB it 
stopped and remained fixed at the spot 
where the church, which was buflt in 
consequence, now stands ! This was 
not the only miracle performed by the 
image, for it obtained such a high re- 
putation for curing aB kinds of maladies 
that the weak and the devout made pil- 
grimages to it from far and near. The 
image exists no longer, having been de- 
stroyed by sacrBegious hands when the 
army of the Confederates, under OBver 
Temple, in 1580, took and piBaged the 
city, 

Mechlin was the seat of the Imperial 
Chamber, founded by Charles the Bold, 
1473, which continued to maintain the 
reputation of a most upright court of 
justice for many centuries. Charles V. 
andPhBip II. presided over it in person. 

Mechlin is the birthplace of Ernest 
Count Mansfeld, the celebrated leader 
in the 30 years' war ; of Michel Coexie 
(1497), the scholar and imitator of Ba- 
phael; and of Dodonaeus the botanist 
(d. 1585). 

The manufacture of Lace, which re- 
ceives its name from Mechlin, is much 
faBen off. Only 8 houses are now em- 
ployed in making it. It is a coarser 
and stouter variety than that made at 
Brussels, 

A group of 3 very picturesque old 
houses in the Kraaru Straat are a fit 
subject for the pencfl. " The Porte 
d'Egmont, and the pBe of buBdmgs 
caBed Begurnage, near the entrance of 
Mechlin, are curious relics of anti- 
quity."— P. H. 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 23. — V1LVORDE. BRUSSELS^ 



155 



The Railroad to Brussels, 20 kilo., on 
leaving Mechlin, crosses the canal lead- 
ing to Louvain. 

[The Chateau of Rubens at Stcen, of 
which place he was seigneur, still exists, 
though fast falling to decay, near the 
village of Elewyt, a little on the E. of 
the road between Malines and Vilvordc. 
It is surrounded by a moat. Teniers's 
house at Perck, 3 m. from Vilvorde and 
2 m. from Steen, is called, from its 3 
towers (none of which remain), De 
Brie Toren, and is marked by the ori- 
ginal gabled gate-house and the moat 
which surrounded it. A spread eagle 
on the folding-doors is said to be the 
work of the artist himself. In the vil- 
lage church is his wife's tomb, and a 
painting by him.] 

10 Vilvorde Stat. (2700 inhab.), a 
dull town, has an interesting Ch. con- 
taining fine carvings in wood. Tindal, 
translator of the Bible into English, 
suffered martyrdom here as a heretic, 
in 1536, being strangled at the stake, 
and then burnt outside the town, near 
the Penitentiary, a huge edifice, with 
loop-hole windows, on the 1., which 
stands on the site of his prison. 

On quitting Vilvordc many pretty 
country-seats are seen on the banks of 
the broad canal which goes to Brussels, 
and outside of Vilvorde the vast Peni- 
tentiary mentioned above. 

On approaching Brussels, the Palace 
of Laeken, belonging to the King of 
Belgium, appears at some distance on 
the rt. It is handsomely furnished, but 
there is nothing to distinguish it from 
other kingly residences, of which a tra- 
veller may see enough in a continental 
journey. It was originally built for the 
Austrian governor of the Netherlands 
before the French revolution, and was 
afterwards inhabited by Napoleon, who 
here planned his disastrous Russian 
campaign. The gardens and park arc 
very beautiful. It is 3 m. from Brus- 
sels. Madame Malibran is buried in 
the Cemetery of Laekcn. A statue of 
her in marble, by Geefs, has been set up 
in a so-called temple, as a monument, by 
her husband, who caused her body to be 
removed hither from Manchester. The 
statue, however, is placed too high to 
be seen to advantage. The Allee Verte, 



a long avenue of trees, extends nearly all 
the way to Brussels from Laeken. 

The railroad runs on the opposite 
side of the canal, and terminates [Jfr*ws- 
sels 8tat.~\ at the Porte de Cologne, near 
the botanic garden, opposite the Longue 
Rue Neuve. 

10 Brussels (Fr., Bruxelles ; Flem., 
Brussel ; Germ., Brusscl). — Inns : II. do 
Bellcvuo ; charges, 1 wax candle, 1 fr. ; 
tea, 1 fr. 50 c. ; breakfast, do. ; tablc- 
d'hote, 3 fr. ; bottle of ordinary wine, 3 
fr. 50 c. ; dinner in private, 4 to 5 fr. ; 
lodging, 2 fr. H. do Flandre ; very 
good, the table-d'hOte is celebrated. 
H. de 1' Europe ; good. These 3 in 
the Place Roy ale. H. de France, 
Rue Royale, corner of the Mont du 
Pare ; highly recommended, comfortable 
and moderate. H. Royal, new, in the 
lower town. H. de la Regence, near 
the Place Royale ; good, quiet, and mo- 
derate. H. de la Grande Bretagne, 
Place Royale. II. de rUnivcrs, Longue 
Rue Neuve. H. des Princes, Place do 
laMonnaie. H. de Saxe. II . des Quatre 
Saisons. 

The expense of living at one of the 
principal hotels ought not to exceed 12 
fr. a day, including a bottle of Bordeaux 
wine. 

2nd class Inn : H. de Hollande, where 
the expenses ought not to exceed 8 fr. 
daily. 

Hotel Garni. Hotel Kreuznach, in the 
Rue Royale. 

There are also several Boarding-houses, 
among which may be mentioned one in 
the new Quartier Louise, leading from 
the Boulevard de Waterloo, kept by Mrs. 
Hay don. 

Brussels, the capital of the kingdom 
of Belgium, and seat of government and 
of the Chambers, on the small river 
Senne, has 124,461 inhab., or, includ- 
ing the suburbs, 160,000. It is divided 
into the upper and lower towns, the 
upper being the newest as well as the 
most fashionable and healthy quarter, 
from its elevated site. It contains the 
King's palace, the Chambers, and the 
chief hotels. The foreign ambaassadors 
reside in the Rue Ducal.'. The Rue de 
la Loi is occupied by public offices. The 
lower town abounds in fine old pictur- 
esque buildings, the residences in for- 



156 



ROUTE 23. — BRUSSELS. PARK. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Sect. II. 



mor times of the Brabant noblesse, now 
occupied by merchants and tradespeople. 
The Grande Place, with its splendid 
Hotel de Ville, in this quarter, is be- 
yond doubt unrivalled as a specimen of 
Gothic splendour in civic edifices. The 
Quartier Leopold, containing some fine 
houses, is becoming the favourite part 
of the town. French is the prevailing 
language, though many among the lower 
orders, and the majority of the popula- 
tion in the lower town, speak only 
Flemish. 

Those who are acquainted with the 
French metropolis will find here many 
similarities, which give Brussels the 
character of Paris on a small scale. 
Besides the language, which is the same, 
and a certain affectation of French 
manners and habits perceptible in so- 
ciety here, the town of Brussels has its 
little opera, in imitation of that of 
Paris ; its cafes, in the manner of those 
of the Palais Royal; a palace-garden, 
which pretends to a similarity with 
that of the Tuileries ; and miniature 
Boulevards around the town. 

Brussels abounds in English in search 
of cheapness, which their presence has 
banished. From the long sojourn of so 
many of our countrymen, the English 
language is very generally spoken, from 
the landlord of the hotels down to the 
shoeblack in the streets. 

The Park is a considerable enclosure 
in the higher town, forming the interior 
of a large square, laid out with avenues 
of trees, shady walks, and verdant turf, 
and ornamented with statues ; serving 
as a promenade to the inhabitants, who 
are indebted to the Empress Maria 
Theresa for it. The most fashionable 
evening walk is on the 1, of the en- 
trance to the Place Royale, The park 
was the scene of the principal combat 
during the revolution of 1830. It was 
occupied by the Dutch troops, and the 
trees still bear marks of the wounds 
they then received, The H6tel de 
Bellevue, standing between the Place 
Eoyale, where the Belgian insurgents 
were posted, and the Park, was the centre 
of action, and was riddled with shot. 

Among the buildings which form 
the sides of this square, and which im- 
mediately overlook the Park, are — 



The King's Palace; it has nothing 
very remarkable without or within. It 
is furnished in a costly manner, as 
palaces usually are ; and those to whom 
suites of splendid apartments, and a 
few pictures of no great value, by 
David, &c, are an attraction, may ob- 
tain permission to see the interior when 
the royal family is absent, though with 
difficulty. 

Near to it is the Palace of the Prince 
of Orange (the late King of Holland), 
erected at the cost of the city of Brus- 
sels, and presented to the Prince. The 
building was finished and inhabited 
only one year before the revolution of 
1830 broke out. The fine collections 
of pictures and furniture have been re- 
moved and sold. 

The Chambers of Representatives, or 
Palais de la Nation, built by Maria 
Theresa for the meetings of the Council 
of Brabant, are situated Rue de la Loi, 
at the end of the Park, facing the Boyal 
Palace ; within theyresemble the French 
Chambers at Paris previous to 1848. 
There is nothing to particularise in 
them, except perhaps 3 pictures by 
modem artists — the commencement of 
the Belgian Trois Jours of 1830, by 
Wappers; the Battle of "Woeringen, by 
De Keyzer ; and the Battle of "Waterloo. 
Ladies, as well as gentlemen, are ad- 
mitted during the debates. The en- 
trance is behind, in the Rue de l'Oran- 
gerie. 

In the Place Royale stands a spirited 
bronze equestrian statue of Godfrey of 
Bouillon, by M. Simonis, erected in 
1848. It was cast at Paris by Soyer. 

In one of the last houses in the Rue 
Ragule, near the Porte de Schaerbeck, 
the Duchess of Richmond gave the 
grand ball to the Duke of "Wellington 
and his officers on the eve of Waterloo 
(June 15, 1815), which the Duke would 
not allow to be put off, although he had 
previously heard of the advance of Na- 
poleon. 

The Museum, in the Old Palace, for- 
merly the residence of the Spanish and 
Austrian Governors of the Low Coun- 
tries, and before that of the Dukes of 
Brabant, and now called Palais des 
Beaux Arts, contains — 1st. The Picture 
Gallery. Here are 7 works reputed to 



BRHTS8E1L 



H 




Refer ences 

1 King's Palace — - Dr 

2 Palace of Pr. or Orange Df 

3 Chamber of -Representf- Ff 

4 Place des Martyrs F d 

b Museum, Hd, 

6 Palais d Industrie ... D e 

7 Hotel deViOe . E t- 

8 JSroodhuis or Ma/son da Roi . E d 

9 Church of StCudjule F e. 

10 Church of Kotre Danie Dd 

11 Palais de Justice ~Dd 

12 Prison des Petits Cannes ... C e 

13 Palais d\Aremberg C e 

14 Place die Petit Sab Ion, C e 

15 Porte de Hal Ac 

16 University Ee 

17 Theatre Royal E d 

18 Tlieatre du Pare ..Ef 

19 Post Office F d q 



ood e -H 



J. &C Walker Sadp. 



Iklgium. route 23. — Brussels, museum. librarV. 



157 



be by Rubens, mostly inferior to those 
at Antwerp, and probably executed by 
his pupils. They are, however, not 

deficient in many traces of his trans* 
cendent power. Among them arc, The 
Martyrdom of St. Lieven — a Coronation 
of the Virgin — Adoration of the Magi — 
Christ falling under the Cross — a Dead 
Christ at the Sepulchre — Christ armed 
■with Thunder to destroy the World; an 
exMavnirant and unchristian allegory. 
" Christ, with Jupiter's thunder and 
lightning in his hand, denouncing ven- 
geance on s wicked world, represented 
by a glohe lying on the ground with 
the serpent twined round it : this globe 
St. Francis appears to he covering and 
defending with his mantle. The Virgin 
is holding Christ's hand, and showing 
her hreasts; implying, as I suppose, 
the right she has to intercede and have 
an interest with him whom she suokled. 
The Christ, which is ill drawn, in an 
attitude affectedly contrasted, is the 
most ungracious figure that can be 
imagined : the best part of the picture 
is the head of St. Francis."—^. The 
Assumption of the Virgin : — li The prin- 
cipal figure, the Virgin, is the worst 
in the composition, both in regard to 
the character of the countenance, the 
drawing of the figure, and even its 
colour; for she is dressed, not in what 
is the fixed dress of the Virgin, blue 
and red, but entirely in a colour be- 
tween blue and red, heightened with 
white ; and this coming on a white 
glory gives a deadness to that part of 
the picture. The Apostles and the two 
women are in Rubens' s best manner. 
The angels are beautifully coloured, 
and unite with the sky in perfect har- 
mony ; the masses of light and shade 
are conducted with the greatest judg- 
ment; and, excepting the upper part, 
where the Virgin is, it is one of Rubens's 
rich pictures."— A'. De Crai/er, St. 
Peter Fishing. P. Ncefs, Interior of 
Antwerp Cathedral. Ger. Dmm, a small 
candlelight piece, very capital. The 
number of pictures here exceeds 300 : 
the had preponderate much over the 
1 ; and the whole collection is far 
inferior to that at Antwerp ; but it is 
full of instruction, and contains the 
works of some early Flemish masters 



that can nowhere be found in equal 
excellence. Several v«ry fine paint- 
ings, purchased by flu; government at 
the Kiii»' of Holland's sale, have, 
however, recently been added to the 
collection. Bernard van Orley, The 
body of Christ, mourned over by his 
friends and by the women, one of his 
best works. " It has a great nature, 
but is hard, as the whole picture is 
in a dry Gothic style." — R. In the 
fatal bombardment of Brussels on the 
20th of August, 1G95, by the French 
under Marshal Villeroy, there were de- 
stroyed, in less than 48 hours, several 
thousand houses and 14 churches, the 
latter adorned with some of the finest 
works of Rubens, Vandyck, and other 
eminent painters, which thus perished 
is the flames, or were buried in the 
ruins. In the ante-rooms are speci- 
mens of the modem Belgian School of 
Art, very well worthy of attention, 
especially the works of Wappers, Gallait, 
de Keyzer, Verboekhoven — The Sheepcot 
in a Storm, Le Poitecen, de Caisne, &c. 

The collections of painting and na- 
tural history are open to the public 
Sun., Wed., ? and Thurs. A stranger 
will gain admittance at all times by 
feeing the porter. There is also a cu- 
rious collection of models of engines, 
sluice-gates, machinery, &e. 

2nd. The Bitrgundian Library, under 
the same roof as the gallery, contains 
18,000 MSS., &c, of great interest and 
value. They were collected at a very 
early period by the Dukes of Burgundy ; 
many are richly adornod with precious 
miniature paintings of the greatest 
beauty by the scholars of Van Eyck. 
The Chronicle of Ilainault, consisting 
of 17 folio volumes, illuminated, de- 
serves particular notice ; also the Missal 
of Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary, 
and the Psalter of Louis de Male. This 
collection has been twice carried off to 
Paris by the French as the spoil! of 
war. This library has been united to 
the Royal library, which was formed in 
1837 by the union of the libraries of 
the state and of the town of Iirussels 
with that of Van Hulteni, which Mas 
purchased for 315,000 francs. It con- 
tains 800,000 vols, of printed hooks. 
The library is open every day except 



L 




References 

I Kilty's Paliue 

- Palace of Pr. ot' O range ... 

3 Chamber ot' RcprcsctU? Ft' 

4 Place des Martyrs Fd 

:> Museum r>d 

6 Palais d lndushie J) t . 

- /!,■/<■/ da rdle ....... E c 

8 Broodlmis or Maison du Itoi E d 

!) Church of S'Cudide p 

10 Church of Noire- Dome Tid 

11 I'atais de Justice J},/ 

12 Prison das i'etits Carinas C e 

13 Palais d' Arctubcrg c t 

11 Place du I't-lit Sablon Q v 

1C> Porte de Hal \ c 

16 rutversity F. c 

17 Theatre Royal Fd 

18 Tlieatre du Pare Er' 

1!> Pusi Office F d n 

,2Q Place des H.urieades / 



Published In Join, Murray Albemarle Street London 1819 



X/tCWalktrSf 



158 



ROUTE 23. BRUSSELS. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



Sect. II. 



Sun. from 9 to 3. Nothing can exceed 
the comfort of the reading-room. 

3rd. The Museum of Natural History, 
on the lower story of the same build- 
ing, is probably the most complete in 
Belgium. The zoological department 
includes many specimens brought from 
the Dutch East Indian colonies. That 
of mineralogy is enriched by an in- 
teresting collection of Eussian minerals 
presented by the late Queen of Holland. 
The specimens of chromate of lead and 
malachite are fine. There is a very com- 
plete series of the volcanic products of Ve- 
suvius, and of the fossils of Maestricht. 

This building serves likewise as a 
College, and public lectures, instituted 
by government, are given daily, at par- 
ticular seasons, in various branches of 
science, literature, and art, to which all 
persons are admitted gratis. In the 
courtyard is preserved the inscription 
from the monument of Lipsius. 

The Palais d' Industrie, opposite the 
Ch. of St. Jacques Caudenberg, 1., in 
the corner, is appropriated to an exhi- 
bition, every 4 years, of the products 
of national arts and manufactares. It 
contains an incipient collection of an- 
tiques, some old armour, the cradle of 
Charles V., a font from Tirlemont (date 
1149), &c. 

The Hotel de Ville, in the Grande 
Place, is the grandest of those munici- 
pal palaces which are found in almost 
every city of the Netherlands, and no- 
where else of the same splendour. The 
part S.E. of the tower was begun 1401. 
The beautiful tower, of Gothic open 
work, 364 ft. high, was built by Jan 
van Ruysbrock, the architect of the 
first portion, in 1444. It originally 
stood at the end of the building: the 
wing to the N/VV. of the tower was 
added about the end of the cent. It 
differs in length and otherwise mate- 
rially from the older wing, but not so 
as to destroy the effect of the whole. 
The guilt copper figure of St. Michael 
on the top, which serves as a weather- 
cock, and turns with the wind, is 17 ft. 
high. The abdication of Charles V. 
(1555) took place in the Old Ducal 
Palace, which stood on the site of the 
Place Roy ale, burnt down in 1733, and 
not, as is often said, in this town-hall. 



That event is depicted on tapestries pre- 
served here, but, as the interior suffered 
sad spoliation and wanton destruction 
of its carvings and ornamental work 
during the first French revolution, it- 
contains little worth notice. 

The market-place, in front of it, is 
lined with picturesque old houses, most 
of which were the halls of various Cor- 
porations and Guilds. Here the Counts 
Egmont and Horn were beheaded, by 
order of the cruel Alva, in 1568. They 
passed the night preceding their deaths 
in the old Gothic house opposite, called 
the Broodhuis, or liaison du Roi (built 
1525), which once served the purpose 
of Hotel de Ville. Alva, it is said, 
looked on while the execution was going 
forward, from a window in the building. 

The Collegiate Ch. of St. Gudule, the 
finest in Brussels, is a handsome Gothic 
edifice, in which chapters of the order 
of the Golden Fleece were held by 
Philip the Good in 1435, and by 
Charles V. in 1516. The existing choir 
and transepts were finished in 1273, 
the nave in the 14th cent., and the 
towers in 1518. The outside was well 
restored in 1843. The proper dedica- 
tion is to the " Saints Michel et Gu- 
dule," but, as in many similar cases, 
the female saint has eclipsed the arch- 
angel. It is remarkable for the beauti- 
ful painted glass in its windows, especi- 
ally those by Roger van der Weyde in 
the great N. chapel of the St. Sacre- 
ment des Miracles, including portraits 
of sovereigns and princes of the 16th 
cent., by whom they were presented : 
2 are dated 1546, and 2 1547. The N. 
and S. windows of the transept are of 
1557, the W. window 1528. Within 
the choir are cenotaphs, erected in 1610 
to John II., Duke of Brabant (1512), 
and Margaret his wife, Duchess of 
York ; and one of the Archduke John 
(1596). A tablet of white marble covers 
the entrance to the vault of the royal 
family of Austria. In the chapel of the 
Virgin, S. aisle, is a statue, by Geefs, 
of a Count Merode, a hero or martyr 
of the revolution of 1830. He is re- 
presented in marble, wearing a blouse, 
the costume in which he was shot, 
wounded, and holding a pistol ! The 
statues of the 12 Apostles placed against 



Belgium, 



ROUTE 23. BRUSSELS. CHURCHES, ETC. 



159 



the pillars in the nave are partly by 
Duqucsnoy. The carved pulpit (called 

Chaire do la Verite) is generally con- 
Eddered the masterpiece of Verbrug- 
gcn. It represents Adam and Eve 
driven out of Paradise by the angel, 
who appear! on one side of the globe 
wielding the pagan thunderbolt of Ju- 
piter, while Death glides round with his 
dart from the opposite side. The pulpit 
itself is in the hollow of the globe, 
which is supported on the tree of know- 
ledge of good and evil, and the tree of 
life, teeming with fruit, and with vari- 
ous animals perched on their branches. 
At the side of Adam arc the ostrich and 
eagle, while in satirical vicinity to Eve 
appear the peacock, the ape, and the 
parrot. Above the canopy stands the 
Virgin holding the infant Saviour, whom 
she is assisting to thrust the extremity 
of the cross into the serpent's head. 
It was executed for the church of the 
Jesuits at Louvain : on the suppression 
of the order Maria Theresa gave it in 
1776 to this church. 

In the chapel, called St. Sacrement 
des Miracles, are deposited the Miracu- 
lous Wafers, said to have been stolen 
from the altar at the instigation of a 
sacrilegious Jew, and subjected to in- 
sults by himself and his brethren assem- 
bled in their synagogue. To add to 
the sacrilege, the day chosen for this 
outrage was Good Friday. When the 
scoffers proceeded so far as to stick their 
knives into the wafers, jets of blood 
burst forth from the woimds, and by a 
second miracle they were struck sense- 
less. They were then denounced by 
one of the pretended spectators, who 
had been converted to Christianity, and 
were seized and put to death by the 
most cruel torments, having their flesh 
torn off by hot irons before they were 
burnt at the stake. This took place 
about the end of the 14th cent., and it 
proves that the Jews at Brussels must 
then have been so numerous and wealthy 
as to have been worth plundering. The 
miracle is one of many similar tales in- 
vented by those who took advantage of 
the superstition of the age, and the 
general hatred of the race of Israel, to 
incite the populace to deeds of cruelty, 
Which enabled them to enrich them- 



selves with the confiscated goods of the 
unbelievers. This triumph of the faith, 
as it is called, is celebrated once a year, 
on the Sunday following the L5th of 
July, in the enlightened city of Iirussels, 
by a solemn procession of the clergy, 
and by the exhibition of the identical 
miraculous wafers. A little book con- 
taining an authorised version of the story 
may be purchased at the church ! A beau- 
tiful modern carved wood altar has been 
set up in the chapel. It cost 1000/. 

The Ch. of Notre Dame de la Chapel Ic, 
in the Rue Haute, which may be called 
a fine church in a city where there is 
little ecclesiastical architecture, con- 
tains a picture by Crayer, Jesus appear- 
ing to Mary Magdalen ; a singular 
pxilpit, representing Elijah comforted 
by an Angel, under a canopy of Palm 
Trees ; the tomb of the painter Breughel, 
and a small paltry tablet to his memory ; 
besides which, on the left of the high 
altar, there is the more pretending mo- 
nument of the family Spinola. 

In the Palais de Justice, formerly a 
monastery of the Jesuits, a poor build- 
ing in the Square du Grand Sablon, are 
2 fine works of the modern Belgian 
School, — the Abdication of Charles V., 
by Gallait, and the Signing of the Com- 
promise or Request, by JJiefce. 

The Prison des Petits Cannes, near 
the square called Petit Sablon, stands 
on the site of the Hotel de Cuylem- 
bourg, memorable as the place of meet- 
ing of the Protestant Confederates in 
the reign of Philip II., who were the 
means of delivering the United Pro- 
vinces from the yoke of Spain. On this 
spot (1566) they drew up the famous 
petition to the Vice-queen Margaret of 
Parma, caUed the " Bequest." At the 
moment when it was presented one of 
the courtiers was overheard to whisper 
in the ear of Margaret, who was rather 
abashed by the sudden appearance of 
the petitioners, " not to be annoyed by 
such a parcel of beggars" (hueux). 
The leaders of the confederates, hearing 
of this, and feeling that an epithet given 
to those who came forward in defence 
of their country and liberties, though 
meant as a reproach, became by its ap- 
plication a title of honour, determined 
at once to adopt it as their nom degmrr*. 



160 



ROUTE 23. — BRUSSELS. PUBLIC BUILDINGS, ETC. Sect. II. 



The same evening, when they met at 
supper, some of them appeared on the 
balcony of the hotel, with a beggar's 
wallet at their back and a porringer 
(jatte) in their hand, out of which they 
drank success to the Gueux! The 
spark thus lighted was soon blown into 
a flame, and this is commonly consi- 
dered one of the leading events of that 
revolution which, in a few years, dis- 
possessed the House of Spain of the 
dominion of the Low Countries. Alva 
wreaked his blind vengeance on the 
building where the meetings were held, 
by levelling it with the ground. 

The Palais d'Aremberg, 17, Place du 
Petit Sablon, furnished with great splen- 
dour, contains a small but choice gal- 
lery chiefly of Dutch and Flemish 
masters : among them an interior by 
de Hooghe ; Tobias' Cure, Rembrandt ; 
Marriage in Cana, Jan Steen ; and a 
beautiful Paul Potter ; a choice collec- 
tion of Etruscan antiquities, and much 
fine old furniture. In the library is an 
antique head, asserted to be that of the 
famous Laocoon, or at least of a statue 
similar to that in the Vatican. The 
Palace is shown in the absence of the 
family, and is well worth seeing ; so 
are the Gardens. The Picture Gallery of 
the Prince de Ligne is not readily shown. 

The Studios of Geefs, the sculptor, 
Rue du Palais, and of Verboekhoven, the 
painter, Eue Royale Exterieure, may 
be visited with pleasure. 

The Porte de Hal, a large and Gothic 
gateway now standing alone, the only 
relic of the old fortifications, erected 
1381, was Alva's Bastille during his 
bloody persecutions of the Protestants. 
It is now used as a Museum for a very 
interesting and well-arranged collection 
of ancient armour. It is in front of this 
building that criminals are guillotined. 

The University, Rue des Sols, was 
originally Cardinal Grandvella's Palace. 

The square called Place des Martyrs 
(Martelaers Plaets) contains a large 
monument erected over the grave of 
more than 300 of the " braves Beiges " 
who were killed in the last revolution, 
Sept. 1830. It consists of a marble 
statue of Liberty on a pedestal, with a 
kneeling Genius in each of the 4 cor- 
ners, by Geefs. Below and around it runs 



a sort of subterranean gallery or cata- 
comb, in which the slain are interred. 

Brussels is the birthplace of Vesalius, 
the anatomist, to whom a statue in 
bronze has been erected in the Place 
des Barricades ; of Van Helmont, the 
chemist ; of Margaret of Austria, Gou- 
vernante of the Low Countries, daughter 
of the Empr. Maximilian ; of the painters 
Bernard van Orley, Philip de Cham- 
pagne, and van der Meulen; of the 
sculptor Duquesnoy. 

The Theatre, in the Place de la Mon- 
naie, is generally well conducted ; the 
performances are good, and the edifice 
itself handsome. It is open every day : 
admission to 1st and 2nd loges, 5 fr. and 
4 fr. ; gallery and parquet, 3 fr. 50 c. ; 
parterre, 1 fr. 60 c. Theatre des JSou- 
veautes, on the Boulevard de Laeken ; 
Theatre du Vaudeville, Rue del'Eveque. 

There is also a smaller Theatre in the 
Parh, in which vaudevilles are per- 
formed Saturday and Sunday. 

Cafe's. — The best are— Cafe Suisse ; 
des Mille Colonnes, in the Place de la 
Monnaie ; and Des Trois Suisses. 

Restaurants ; Du Bos, Rue Fosse aux 
Loups ; reputed good, but dear. Dubos, 
Rue de la Putterie (No. 23) ; a very 
good dinner, a la carte, 2 fr. and 3 
fr. a head. Les Freres Provenceaux, 
Longue Rue de l'Ecuier, is much cele- 
brated. The best ice is to be had at 
Velloni's, in the Park, near the Theatre. 

Fiacres. — The fare is 2 fr. 1st hr. ; 
1| fr. after ; or 1± fr. for any distance 
within the town. Cabs ( Vigilantes) cost 
1J fr. the 1st hr., and 1 fr. for a drive. 

A valet de place expects 4 fr. per diem 
here and elsewhere in Belgium. 

Post Office in the Rue de la Montagne, 
not far from St. Gudule. Poste restante 
open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Letters unpaid 
may now be posted for England at any 
of the branch offices before 5 p.m. 

Passports are vise at the Ministere de 
Justice, Rue de la Regence, close to 
the Place Royale. The English Minister 
lives outside the Porte Leopold, and 
the Prussian Embassy is in the Rue des 
Petits Cannes, No. 39. The signatures 
of both must be obtained in order to 
enter Rhenish Prussia. The Prussian 
Minister will not viser a Belgian pass- 
port for a British subject. In order to 



Belgium. route 23. — Brussels, lace. promenades. 



161 



obtain his signature, a traveller who 
has provided himself with a Belgian 
passport on ([Hitting- London will have 
to exchange it for an English one at 
tlie British Embassy. 

Railroads. — Northern line (Antwerp, 
Ostend, Liege). Terminus, Station du 
Nord, at tlie end of Longue RuoNeuve. 

Southern line (Namur, Mons,Va- 

lenoiennes). Terminus, Station dti Midi, 
near the Church of N. D. do Bon Sccours. 

Omnibuses run from different parts of 
the town, calling at the chief hotels to 
convey passengers to the railroads. 

Diligences daily to Louvain. 

Booksellers. — Muquardt, 11, Place 
Royale, has a reading-room for English 
and foreign newspapers, and an English 
circulating library. N.B. — Belgian and 
French editions of English books are 
now absolutely prohibited at the British 
Custom-house. 

The best shops arc for the most part 
in the Rue Montagnc de la Cour and 
Rue de la Madeleine. 

The Gallerie St. Hubert, extending 
from the March e aux Herbes to the 
Rue de l'Eveque, is an extremely hand- 
some arcade, or street glazed over. 

The most remarkable manufacture 
at Brussels is that of Lace, celebrated 
all over the world. The peculiarity, in 
addition to the fineness, which distin- 
guishes it, is, that the patterns are 
Worked separately with the most mi- 
croscopic minuteness, and are afterwards 
sewed on. The flax employed in the 
manufacture grows near Hal ; the best 
comes from a place called Rebecque. 
The finest sort costs from 300 fr. to 400 
fr. per lb., and is worth its weight in 
g< ild ; everything depends on the tenuity 
of the fibre. % yard (English) of the 
finest and most expensive kind of lace 
costs 150 fr. ; but a very good sort is 
sold for 50 fr., and the prices of some 
arc as low as 10 fr. per aune. It is 
said that the persons who spin the 
thread for Brussels lace, and also for 
the French cambric (batiste) of St. 
Quentin, are obliged to work in con- 
fined dark rooms, into which light is 
admitted only partially by a small aper- 
ture ; and that, by being thus compelled 
to pay more constant and minute atten- 
tion to their work, they discipline the 



eye, and attain the (acuity of spinning 
the flax of that web-like fineness which 
constitutes the excellence of these 2 
fabrics. 

Very good carriages are made here, 
about two-thirds cheaper, though not 
equal in excellence to the English. M. 
Simon, in the Rue Royale, near the 
Gate of Schaerbeck, is recommended as 
the most eminent coachmaker. 

Money Changers. — Mcssel, 70, Rue dc 
la Madeleine. Yates, Mont, de la Cour. 

There are two Chapels in which the 
English Church service is performed every 
Sunday : one close to the Museum ; the 
other on the Boulevard de l'Observa- 
toire. Service at the Chapel Royale, 
Rue du Musee, at 9 a.m. and 2\ p.m. ; 
at the Chapel on the Boulevard dc 
rObservatoire, 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. 

The shortest way to England. — London 
may be reached via, Ostend and Dover 
in 12 hrs. The steamers now go daily 
from Ostend to Dover. See p. 119. 
To reach Calais by railway takes 8 or 
10 hrs. 

The principal Promenades, besides the 
Park, mentioned before, arc the Boule- 
vards, extending nearly round the 
town; the most fashionable and fre- 
quented being those de Waterloo, du 
Regent, and de l'Observatoire, between 
the gates of Schaerbeck and d' Anvers ; 
— an entirely New Quarter (Quartier 
Leopold) has sprung up between the 
Portes de Louvain and de Namur ; — the 
Botanic Garden, near the Porte de 
Schaerbeck, which is very prettily laid 
out, and is open to the public Tues., 
Thurs., Sat., from 10 to 3 ; — and the 
Alle'e Verte, a treble avenue of lime- 
trees by the side of the canal lead- 
ing to Mechlin, which were spared by 
Marshal Saxc, at the entreaty of the 
ladies of Brussels, when he besieged 
the town 1746. Excursions may bo 
made from Brussels to — 

Laeken (p. 155). A fiacre costs 5 fr. 
to go and return, provided it be not 
detained more than 2 hrs. Laeken is 
a railway station. From the fields near 
Laeken is the best view of Brussels. 

The Excursion to Waterloo (see Rte. 

24) will occupy about 8 hrs., allowing 

3 hrs. for the horses to rest and for 
surveying the field. A carriage with 



162 



ROUTE 24. BRUSSELS TO LIEGE. WATERLOO. Sect. II. 



2 horses (voiture de remise), to go and 
return, ought not to cost more than 
20 fr., driver and turnpikes included. 
A vigilante (cab) may be hired for 10 fr. 
It is necessary to stipulate that you 
shall be taken to Mont St. Jean and 
Hougoumont ; or, what is better, let the 
agreement be to convey you to any part 
of the field you please, otherwise you 
will be set down at the village of 
Waterloo, 2 m. short of the most in- 
teresting points in the field of battle, or 
be compelled to pay 2 or 3 fr. extra for 
going farther. The hire of a saddle- 
horse ought not to exceed 8 or 10 fr. 
The field of Waterloo is 12^ m. from 
Brussels, a drive of about 2 hrs. The 
high road to Namur and Liege (Bte. 24) 
runs through Waterloo, and across the 
field of battle. The Nivelles diligence 
traverses it daily to and fro ; those to 
Namur are given up. There is also a 
stage-coach daily from Brussels. Fare 
to Waterloo and back, 5 fr. 

EOUTE 24. 

BRUSSELS TO LIEGE, BY WATERLOO AND 

NAMUR. — DESCENT OF THE MEUSE, 
NAMUR TO MAESTRICHT. 

To Liege 16 posts == 78 Eng. m. 

The quickest way to Liege is by the 
Railroad through Louvain (Bte. 26), 
and to Namur by the railroad through 
Hal (B. 28) ; but the following road pos- 
sesses the recommendation of passing by 
Waterloo and the beautiful valley of 
the Meuse. 

Diligence to Nivelles daily. 

Near the village of Ixelles a good 
view of Brussels and of the country far 
and wide is obtained, on which account 
it is a crowded place of resort with the 
citizens upon Sundays. 

About 2 m. from Brussels the road 
enters or skirts the Forest of Soigne, or 
Soignies, now much curtailed and partly 
converted into cornfields. Byron, by a 
poetical licence, has identified it with 
the ancient Forest of Ardennes. The 
march of the British troops through it, 
on their way to the battle, is described 
by him in these beautiful lines : — 

" Ardennes waves above them her green leaves, 
Dewy with nature's tear-drops, as they pass, 
Grieving, if aught inanimate e'er grieves, 
Over the unreturning brave, — alas ! 



Ere evening to be trodden like the grass 
Which now beneath them, but above shall 

grow 
In its next verdure, when this fiery mass 
Of living valour, rolling on the foe, 
And burning with high hope, shall moulder 

cold and low." 

The forest is about 9 m. long and 
1\ broad. 

2 Waterloo. — Inn : H. de TAr- 
genteuil. This village, on the outskirts 
of the forest, about 10 m. from Brussels, 
was the head-quarters of the English 
army on the days before and following 
the battle to which it has given its 
name (June 17 and 19, 1815). The 
Duke's quarters were in the Post-house 
opposite the church. Here, after 16 
hrs. in the saddle, he dismounted from 
his faithful steed Copenhagen (long 
afterwards a pensioner in the paddocks 
of Stratfieldsaye), and the spirited ani- 
mal, conscious of the termination of 
his labours, is stated to have kicked out 
in a manner which had nearly proved 
fatal to his rider. 

The moment a traveller comes in 
sight of Waterloo he will be assailed 
by guides and relic-venders, claiming 
the honour of serving him in the capa- 
city of guide. The only mode of ap- 
peasing the clamours, and rescuing him- 
self from the annoyance, is to fix upon 
one or other, informing him at the same 
time what will be his remuneration. 
3 or 4 francs will be enough for his 
services over the whole field ; but if this 
be not settled beforehand, he will not 
hesitate to demand at least double. 
English travellers seeking a guide to the 
Field may safely resort to Serjt. Mun- 
day, late of the 7th Hussars, who lives 
half way between the village and the 
Field of Waterloo. He may also be 
heard of at the Waterloo Museum, formed 
by the late Serjt. Cotton opposite the 
H6tel de la Colonne, which contains 
some really interesting objects. The 
best Belg. guides are Martin Yiseur, 
Martin Pirson, Jean Jacques Pierson, 
and Jacques Deligne; the last and 
Viseur speak English. 

The little Church and churchyard of I 
Waterloo are crowded with melancholy | 
memorials of English officers : they con- 
tain nearly 30 tablets and monuments 
to those who fell. 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 24. — WATERLOO. 



163 



" Many a wounded Hriton there was Laid, 
With such poor help as time mi^ht then allow 
From the fresh carnage of the field convey'd ; 
And they whom human succours could not save 
Here in its precincts found a hasty grave. 
And here on marble tablets set on high, 
In English lines by foreign workmen trac'd, 
Are names familiar to an English eye ; 
Their brethren here the fit memorials plac'd, 
Whose unadorn'd inscriptions briefly tell 
Their gallant comrades' rank, and where they 
fell." Southey. 

Among the curiosities of Waterloo, 
to the examination of which the most 
strenuous persuasion is used to invite 
the passing stranger, is the grave of the 
Marquis of Anglesea's leg, and the house 
in which it was cut off, and where the 
hoot belonging to it is preserved ! The 
owner of the house to whose share this 
relic has fallen finds it a most lucrative 
source of revenue, and will, in spite of 
the absurdity of the thing, probably 
bequeath it to his children as a valuable 
property. He has interred the leg 
most decorously within a coffin, under 
a weeping willow, and has honoured it 
with a monument and an epitaph. 

Waterloo is now nearly joined to 
Mont St. Jean, a long straggling village 
(the Hotels are decent little Inns), 
though once almost a mile from it, and 
lying on the edge of the field of battle. 

Here the road divides : the branch on 
the rt. leads to Nivellcs ; the other, 
continuing straight on, is the high road 
to Gcnappe and Namur. Travellers not 
strong a-foot ought not to leave their 
carriage at Waterloo, or even at Mont 
St. Jean, as it is still a mile short of 
the centre of the field, and this mile 
will considerably increase the long walk 
which they must at any rate take in 
order to see the ground to advantage. 
It is more prudent to drive on to Hou- 
goumont, 1J m. If the traveller in- 
tend to proceed on to Namur, and not 
to return to Brussels, the carriage must 
stop at La Belle Alliance, which is a 
sorry kind of public-house. 

Leafing the village of Mont St. Jean, 
the road reaches an open country, almost 
entirely without trees; it ascends a 
gentle rise, and passes the large farm- 
house with offices called Ferme do Mont 
St. Jean, which during the battle was 
filled with wounded British, and served 
a§ a sort of hospital. The Mound sur- 



mounted by the Belgic Lion, by far the 
most conspicuous object in the field of 
Waterloo, now appears in sight. It 
marks the spot which may be consi- 
dered the centre of the conflict. 

The field had been examined by the 
Duke of Wellington in the previous 
year. In a " Memorandum on the de- 
fence of the frontier of the Netherlands," 
addressed to Lord Bathurst, 22nd Sept. 
1814, he says, "About Nivellc, and 
between that and Binch, there are many 
advantageous positions for an army, 
and the entrance to the foret do Soignies 
by the high road which leads to Brussels 
from Binch, Charleroi, and Namur, 
would, if worked upon, afford others." 
— Despatches, xii. 129. Though not a 
strong position, it was the best between 
Qnatre Bras and Brussels available for 
the protection of that capital. 

On arriving at the end of this ascent, 
the traveller finds himself on the brow 
of a hill or ridge extending on the rt. 
and 1. of the road, with a gentle hol- 
low or shallow valley before him, and 
another ascent and nearly correspond- 
ing ridge beyond it. Along the ridge 
on which he stands the British army 
was posted, while the position of the 
French was along the opposite heights. 

The road on which we are travelling 
intersected the 2 armies, or, so to speak, 
separated the 1. wing of the British and 
rt. wing of the French from the main 
bodies of their respective armies. To 
render the declivity more gradual, the 
road has been cut through the crest of 
the ridge several feet deep, so as to form 
a sort of hollow way. At this point 2 
Monuments have been erected close to 
the roadside ; that on the right ( 4 in the 
plan), a pillar to the memory of Col. 
Gordon, bearing a most touching epi- 
taph, well worth perusal ; that on the 
left ( 5 ), an obelisk in honour of the 
Hanoverian officers of the German 
Legion who fell on the spot. 

Hereabouts the high road is traversed 
nearly at right angles by a small 
country cross-road. During the first 
part of the action the Duke of Welling- 
ton stood in the angle formed by the 
crossing of these 2 roads, and on the 
rt. of the highway, at a little distance 
from a solitary elm (> in the plan), 



164 



ROUTE 24.— WATERLOO. 



Sect. n. 




Belgium. 

called the Wellington Tree, from an 
unfounded report that the Duke had 
placed himself beneath it during the 

action. The Duke knew bettor than 
to post himself and his staff elose to an 
object which must inevitably serve as a 
mark for the enemy to fire at. Upon 
the strength of this story, however, the 
elm, after being mutilated and stripped 
hy relic-hunters, was cut down and 
sold, some time after the battle, to an 
Englishman. 

About half-way down in the hollow 
which separated the 2 armies, and in 
which the most bloody combats took 
place, is the Farm of La Ilaye Sainte ( 6 ) 



ROUTE 24. — WATERLOO. 



165 



tinte (*) 
rt. It 



close to the roadside on the rt. It 
was occupied by the soldiers of the 
German Legion, and gallantly defended 
till their ammunition was exhausted, 
when they were literally cut to pieces : 
the French " got possession of it about 
2 o'clock, from a circumstance which is 
to be attributed to the neglect of the 
officer commanding on the spot, and 
were never removed from thence till I 
commenced the attack in the evening ; 
but they never advanced further on that 
side." — Despatches, xii. 610. A terrible 
carnage took place in the house and 
garden, and the building was riddled 
with shot. 

Close to this house a spot is shown 
as the grave of Shaw the valorous Life- 
guardsman, who killed 9 Frenchmen 
with his own hand in the battle. Not 
far off, on the opposite side of the road, 
a vast accumulation of bodies of men, 
intermixed with horses, were buried in 
one common grave. It was near this 
spot that the brave General Ficton was 
killed, and Colonel Ponsonby wounded. 
5 Scotch regiments were engaged in 
this part of the fight. 

If we now proceed across the valley 
and up the opposite slope, we reach the 
farm of La Belle Alliance, a solitary 
white house, on the 1. of the road ( 7 ), 
now a poor public-house. It was occu- 
pied by the French, whose lines were 
drawn up close behind it; though 
towards the end of the engagement 
Napoleon in person marshalled his im- 
perial guards in front of it for the final 
charge. Napoleon's place of observa- 
tion during a great part of the battle 



was nearly on a line with La Hello 
Alliance, at some distance on the rt. 
of the road. The Prussians have erected 
a cast-iron monument ( 9 ) at a short dis- 
tance on the left, in memory of their 
fellow-countrymen who fell here. Their 
loss in the battle amounted to nearly 
7000 ; it occurred chiefly in the vicinity 
of Planchenoit, a village on the 1. of 
the road, beyond La Belle Alliance, 
which was stormed and retaken 3 times. 

It has been erroneously stated that 
Bliicher met the Duke after the battle 
at La Belle Alliance; but the fact is, 
that he did not overtake the Duke till 
he was 2 m. beyond the field, at Maison 
Eouge, or Maison du Roi, on the road 
to Genappo. Here the Duke gave 
orders for the halt of his troops. In 
spite of the fatigues of the day, he had 
pursued the French in person till long 
after dark ; and when Colonel Harvey, 
who accompanied him, pointed out the 
danger he ran of being fired at by strag- 
glers from behind the hedges, he ex- 
claimed, "Let them fire away: the 
victory is gained, and my life is of no 
value now." 

A little way beyond La Belle Al- 
liance is the house of Coster ( 8 ), Na- 
poleon's guide (since dead) ; and near 
this spot a glimpse may be had of the 
farm of Hougournont, 1 m. off on the rt. 

Gros Caillou ( ,0 ), a farm-house in 
which Napoleon slept, was bmnt in 
consequence by the Prussians next day, 
to show their hati-ed of their enemy. 

The foregoing enumeration of the 
various localities of the field has been 
made in the order in which a traveller 
would pass them in following the high 
road from Brussels. If he intend to 
turn aside and examine the field more 
minutely, the following description may 
assist him : — 

The Mound of the Belijic Lion ( 8 ) is 
by far the best station for surveying 
the field. It is a vast tumulus, '2<>0 ft. 
high, beneath which the bones of friends 
and foes lie heaped indiscriminately 

together. A flight of Steps leads up to 

the top. The lion was cast by Cockeril] 

of Liege, and is intended to stand on 

the spot where the Prince of Orange 
was wounded. 

"The mound and the lion have 



166 



ROUTE 24. — WATERLOO. 



Sect. II. 



equally been the subject of ill-natured 
censures, but would appear appropriate 
enough, since they serve at once as a 
memorial, a trophy, and a tomb." — 
Family Tour. 

The present appearance of the field 
differs considerably from what it was at 
the time of the battle, owing to the exca- 
vation made along the front of the British 
position, to obtain earth for this arti- 
ficial mound. The ridge of Mont St. 
Jean has been considerably reduced in 
height ; and the spot where the Duke 
of Wellington stood is quite cut away ; 
the ground near being lowered several 
feet by the removal of the earth. 

From the top of the Mound it will 
be perceived that the ground is a per- 
fectly open and undulating plain. The 
British force was disposed in 2 lines 
along one of these undulations : the 
foremost line occupied the brow of the 
eminence, and was partly protected by 
a hedge, running from Mont St. Jean 
to Ohain, which gave the name to the 
farm of La Haye Sainte ( 6 ) ; the second 
stood a little way behind, on the re- 
verse of the slope, so as to be partly 
sheltered from the enemy's fire. The 
British were separated by the shallow 
valley above mentioned — varying from 
500 to 800 yards in breadth — from the 
French, who were posted on the oppo- 
site ridge. The situation of both armies 
was in many parts within point blank 
range of their opponents' artillery. 

The position of the British from rt. 
to 1. did not much exceed a mile and 
a half, — " small theatre for such a tra- 
gedy ;" yet on this limited front did its 
commander place and manoeuvre an 
army of 54,000 men, a remarkable in- 
stance of concentration of force. It 
was drawn up in a sort of curve, to suit 
the ground along the heights, and the 
rt. wing extended as far as Merbe 
Braine. The rt flank of the centre 
stood 400 yards behind the house of 
Hougoumont ( 3 ), which was very 
strongly occupied ; the 1. of the centre 
was posted at a considerable distance 
behind the farm-house of La Haye 
Sainte if), which stood nearly midway 
between the 2 armies, and was also 
occupied and fortified as well as its 
small size and the time would admit. 



The distance between the 2 farms of 
Hougoumont and La Haye Sainte is 
1 300 yards. The French columns could 
not pass between them without being- 
exposed to a flank fire, nor did Napo- 
leon think it prudent to leave 2 such 
posts in his rear in the possession of his 
enemy ; and his first efforts, previous to 
advancing against the English line, 
were to make himself master of them. 

The British army remained during 
the whole day firm in its position ; and, 
formed into squares, received on this 
ridge, in front, and on each side of the 
ground now occupied by the Mound, 
the furious charges of the French 
cavalry, who were on the plateau be- 
tween the 2 high roads nearly J hr., 
all firing having ceased on both sides. 
At the time of the appearance of the 
Prussians not a square had been broken 
or shaken ; the British had not swerved 
an inch backwards, but were rather in 
advance of their first position. The 
Duke says, writing to Lord Beresford, 
July 2, 1815, " Napoleon did not man- 
oeuvre at all. He just moved for- 
ward in the old style in columns, and 
was driven off in the old style. The 
only difference was, that he mixed 
cavalry with his infantry, and sup- 
ported both with an enormous quantity 
of artillery. I had the infantry for 
some time in squares, and we had the 
French cavalry walking about as if they 
had been our own. I never saw the 
British infantry behave so well." 

Far on the L, in the direction of 
Wavre, are seen the woods through 
which the Prussians first advanced to 
the battle. 

The Chateau of Hougoumont or Gou- 
mont ( 3 ), about 3^ m. from "Waterloo 
ch., 1^ m. from Mont St. Jean, 'and 
§ m. from La Haye Sainte, is decid- 
edly the most interesting spot in the 
field of Waterloo, not only for its 
importance in the history of the bat- 
tle, but because it still exhibits marks 
of the dreadful conflict. It formed, in 
fact, the key of the British position, 
and the possession of it would have 
enabled Napoleon to turn the English 
flank. It was on this account that he 
directed his utmost efforts towards it. 
At least 12,000 men, commanded by his 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 24. — WATERLOO. 



167 



brother Jerome, were brought at dif- 
ferent linns against it, and t Ho fierce 
attacks continue^ with hardly any in- 
termission during the whole of the day. 
It was an old-fashioned Flemish cha- 
teau, with walled gardens and farm 
offices attached to it. Had these build- 
ings been formed for a fortress to resist 
the kind of assault which they endured, 
they coidd scarcely have possessed 
greater advantages ; being surrounded 
on all sides by strong Walls, which the 
Duke himself caused to be further for- 
tified by breaking loopholes in them, 
through which the garrison, if it may 
be so called, directed the fire of their 
musketry. But, notwithstanding its 
strength, so furious were the attacks,, 
and so disproportionably great the num- 
ber of assailants, that it could not pos- 
sibly have held out, but for the bravery 
of the troops by whom it was main- 
tained. The wood, orchard, and kitchen- 
garden were several times in the pos- 
session of the French, but they never 
succeeded in forcing the walled enclo- 
sures which surrounded the house. 
This little citadel, though set on fire by 
the howitzers and almost gutted by the 
flames, was maintained to the last by 
the Coidstream Guards. 

At the beginning of the battle the 
house stood in the centre of a wood ; 
but the trees were so mutilated by can- 
non-shot during the action, that few 
remain. The old house set on fire by 
French shells has been entirely re- 
moved ; some of the outhouses, how- 
ever, still exhibit a shattered and 
patched-up appearance ; and the walls 
of the orchard retain the loopholes 
formed by the English ; whilst on the 
outside they present a broken surface 
crumbling to the touch, from the effect 
of the French musketry so long and 
vainly directed against them; the 
French, it is asserted, mistaking for 
some time the red brick wall for the 
English uniforms. " The Belgian yeo- 
man's garden wall was the safeguard of 
Europe, whose destinies hung on the 
possession of this house." In the little 
chape] is shown a crucifix, saved (as 
the peasants say) by miracle from the 
flames, which, alter destroying all about 
it, stopped on reaching the foot of 



the cross. The autographs of Byron, 
Southey, and Wordsworth, were once 
to be discovered among the names 
which cover the walls. 

Though it is not intended to give a 
history of the fight, the following addi- 
tional facts will not be inappropriately 
introduced here : — the force which Na- 
poleon brought into the field amounted, 
by his own confession, to nearly 75,000 
men : 54,000 men composed the whole 
of the Duke of Wellington's army ac- 
tually engaged ; of these only 32,000 
were British or of the German Legion. 
It has been often asserted, and is still 
believed by many, that the Duke of 
Wellington was taken by surprise at 
Waterloo, and that he first heard the 
news of the advance of the French in a 
ball-room. This is not the fact : the 
intelligence was brought to the Duke 
on June 15, by the Prince of Orange, 
who found him at within 100 yards of 
his quarters in the park at Brussels, 
about 3 o'clock ; and by 5 the same 
evening orders had been sent to all the 
divisions of the British army to break 
up their cantonments, and move on 
the 1. of Quatre Bras. A proposal was 
made to put off the ball intended to be 
given by the Duchess of Richmond that 
evening at Brussels ; but it was thought 
better to let it proceed, and thus to keep 
the inhabitants in ignorance of the 
course of events : the Duke therefore 
desired his principal officers to be pre- 
sent, but to take care to quit the ball- 
room as soon after 10 as possible: he 
himself stayed till 12, and set off for the 
army at 6 next morning. On the morn- 
ing of the 16th, the Duke, having 
finished the disposition of his forces, 
rode across the country to Bliicher, at 
Ligny, being unwilling to trust to any 
one the important point of concerting 
measures for the co-operation of the 
Prussians. Bliicher then promised to 
support him with 2 divisions of his 
army, in case Napoleon should direct 
his principal attack against the British. 
This fact is important, and not generally 
known. Another common error respect- 
ing this battle is, that the British were 
on the point of being defeated when the 
Prussians arrived : this is sufficiently 
refuted by the testimony of the Prussian 



163 



ROUTE 24. — WATERLOO TO NAMUR. 



Sect. II. 



general, Muffling, who expressly says 
that " the battle could have afforded no 
favourable result to the enemy, even if 
the Prussians had never come up." 
The Prussian army was expected to join 
the British at 2, but it appears from 
Blucher's despatch that it was half-past 
4 before a gun was fired by them, and 
that it was half-past 7 before they were 
in sufficient force to make any impres- 
sion on the French rt. At that hour 
Napoleon had exhausted his means of 
attack. He had no force in reserve 
but the 4 battalions of the Old Guard. 
These gave way on the advance of the 
British line. The story of the Duke's 
having thrown himself into the middle 
of a square of infantry during the 
charges of the French cavalry is also a 
pure fiction. 

The fertility of the ground on which 
the battle was fought increased greatly 
for several years after it took place. 
Nowhere were richer crops produced in 
the whole of Belgium, and the com is 
said to have waved thickest, and to 
have been of a darker colour, over those 
spots where the dead were interred, so 
that in spring it was possible to dis- 
cover them by this mark alone. 

" But when I stood beneath the fresh green 
tree, 
Which living waves where thou didst cease 

to live, 
And saw around me the wide fields revive 
With fruits and fertile promise, and the 

Spring 
Come forth her work of gladness to contrive, 
With all her reckless birds upon the wing, 
I turn'd from all she brought to those she 
could not bring." Byron. 

" Was it a soothing or a mournful thought, 
Amid this scene of slaughter as we stood, 
Where armies had with recent fury fought, 
To mark how gentle nature still pursued 
Her quiet course, as if she took no care 
For what her noblest work had suffer'd 
there?" South ey. 

The stranger arriving at Waterloo is 
commonly set upon by a numerous 
horde of relic-hunters, who bother him 
to buy buttons and bullets. The fur- 
rows of the plough during many suc- 
ceeding springs laid bare numberless 
melancholy memorials of the fight — 
half-consumed rags, bullets corroded 
and shattered, fragments of accoutre- 
ments, bones and skulls ; but when the 
real articles failed, the vendors were at 



no loss to invent others ; so that there 
is little fear of the supply being ex- 
hausted. Beggars, too, a most perse- 
vering class of tormentors, beset every 
path, in many instances apparently 
Without the pretext of poverty. 

In 1705 the Duke of Marlborough 
was within an inch of fighting the 
French nearly on the same ground as 
Wellington. His head-quarters were 
at Frischermont, and the French were 
posted across the Brussels road. He 
was thwarted, however, by the pig- 
headed obstinacy or cowardice of the 
Dutch commissioners who accompanied 
his army. 

Waterloo to Namur. 

The part of Belgium through which 
our route lies has been called the 
"Cockpit" of Europe, and has been 
for ages the ground upon which the 
powers of Europe have decided their 
quarrels. Besides the fields of Water- 
loo and Quatre Bras, through which the 
road passes, Wavre, Fleurus, Ligny, 
and the little village of Bamillies, where 
Marlborough gained one of his most fa- 
mous victories over the French and Bava- 
rians, He within the province of Brabant, 
or only a short distance off our road. 

1^ Genappe. — Inn : Hotel Martineau, 
indifferent, 17 m. from Brussels : 1800 
inhab, It was on the road, a little way 
out of the town, that the Prussians 
captured the carriage of Napoleon, and 
nearly took him prisoner in it, on the 
night after the battle. 

[rt. A road leads to Nivelles, 11 m. 
distant (Inn : Couronne), a town of 
7844 inhab. The Ch. of St. Gertrude, 
consecrated 1048, is a very noble edifice 
of Bomanesque architecture. It pos- 
sesses the relics of St. Gertrude, daugh- 
ter of Pepin, Maire du Palais, in an 
elaborate shrine in the form of a church, 
with all the most minute Gothic details, 
of metal gilt. It is placed over the 
high altar. Also two pulpits carved by 
Delvaux ; one, of wood, represents 
Elijah in the Desert; the other, of 
marble, the Good Samaritan. Under 
the massive tower is a fine crypt of 
Bomanesque style, much resorted to by 
pilgrims to St. Gertrude's shrine, who 
squeeze themselves through between 



Jtelgium. route 24. — quatre bras, fleurus. liuny. 



169 



one of the pillars and the wall, as a 
cure for illness. This practice arises 
from a legend that St. Gertrude, when 
pursued by a prince, who sought her in 
marriage, escaped from his impor- 
tunities through a gap in a wall, in 
order to preserve her vow of perpetual 
virginity. The smaller tower of the 
church contains the chimes : the hours 
are struck by a colossal figure of an 
armed knight known as Jean de Ni- 
velles. The cloister adjoining the 
church formerly belonged to an abbey 
founded by the Saint, and of which she 
became the head. The chapter con- 
sisted of 36 canons and 42 canonesses ; 
but the whole community was under 
the rule of the abbess. The qualifica- 
tion for election depended on a descent 
which could show arms with 16 quar- 
terings : the Dukes of Brabant soon 
encroached on their authority and pri- 
vileges. The cloister appears from its 
style to be of the 11th or 12th cent., 
not unlike what in England is called 
transition Norman.] 

Between Quatre Bras and Nivellcs 
is the estate presented by the King of 
the Netherlands to the Duke of Wel- 
lington, in gratitude for his great 
services. 

3 m. E. of Genappe is the extensive 
Abbey of Villers in ruins, of Romanesque 
architecture. The church was dedi- 
cated 1272. About l^m. from Genappe 
is the village of Boisy, where Godfrey 
of Bouillon, the lead<y of the first cru- 
sade, was born, 1129. 

Tilly, 6 m. from Genappe, is the 
birthplace (1559) of the general of the 
30 years' war, the opponent of Gustavus 
Adolphus, Count Tzerclas de Tilly. 

Nearly 3 m. from Genappe our road 
passes Quatre Bras, so called because 
4 roads, from Brussels, Charlcroi, Ni- 
vellcs, and Namur, meet at this spot. 
An ingenious innkeeper of the place 
has discovered a different meaning for 
Quatre Bras, and kindly translates it, for 
the benefit of the English, by the words 
" Three Legs !" Here was fought that 
memorable engagement in which the 
brave Duke of Brunswick fell, at the 
head of his devoted black band (June 
16, 1815). This position was con- 
sidered highly important by the Duke 

|N. G.J 



of Wellington, as being the key of all 
the roads in the neighbourhood, lie 
commanded in person during the en- 
gagement, and repulsed Marshal Ney, 
securing the retreat of the British upon 
Waterloo, which had been rendered 
necessary by Blucher's defeat at Ligny, 
in the face of the superior cavalry of 
Napoleon. The Duke was at one mo- 
ment surrounded and nearly made pri- 
soner in the farm-house which stands 
in the N.E. angle of the 4 roads, by an 
unexpected charge of French cavalry, 
who dispersed 2 regiments of the allies, 
but were in their turn driven back by 
the English infantry, and none of the 
foremost of the pursuers were allowed 
to escape. 

The road which continues to the S. 
leads through Gosselies to Charleroi, 
2~ posts from Genappe : that which 
bears to the S.E. leads to 

2 Sombreffe. [4 m. S.W. of Som- 
breffe lies the village of Fleurus, which 
gives a name to the victory gained here 
by the French over the Austrians in 
1794. The same fields were witness 
to the repulse of the Prussians, under 
Bliicher, by Buonaparte, who drove 
them, after an obstinate resistance, from 
their position at Ligny, a village 2 m. 
farther on the 1. of the road to Som- 
breffe : this occurred 2 days before 
the battle of Waterloo, June 16, 1815. 
The Duke of Wellington visited Blii- 
cher a short while before the com- 
mencement of the action, and here con- 
certed with him measures of future 
co-operation on the 18th. The Duke's 
practised eye perceived at once the 
faulty disposition of the Prussian army, 
and he foretold the defeat which 
speedily followed. The Prussians were 
drawn up on the 1. of our road, near 
St. Amand and Ligny ; Bliicher stood 
near the Mill of Bussy. After the 
French had broken through the Prus- 
sian line he headed a charge of cavalry 
in person ; but, his horse having been 
shot under him, he was thrown to the 
ground, and 2 French regiments rode 
over him. In spite of his defeat, how- 
ever, he maintained his cominuniea- 
tions with the English, and made good 
his retreat to Wavre : no beaten army 
ever rallied quicker. Two other hat* 

I 



170 



EOUTE 24. — NAMUE. 



Sect. II. 



ties had been fought on nearly the same 
ground in 1622 and 1690.] 

The road is uninteresting until, after 
crossing a small stream, it reaches the 
height overhanging Namur, which com- 
mands a fine view of its rock-built 
citadel and the valley of the Meuse. 

2\ Namur (Inns : H. de Hollande, 
very good; H. de Harscamp), capital 
of the Atuatici. Csesar (B. G. 2, 29) 
well describes its situation, and its 
capture by him. It is now the ca- 
pital of the province of Namur, and 
a strong fortress with 22,200 inhab., 
built at the junction of the Sambre and 
Meuse. Owing to its numerous sieges 
and bombardments, it possesses few old 
buildings, and it has scarcely any ob- 
jects of interest, unless perhaps the tra- 
veller, calling to mind "my uncle 
Toby," be induced, on his account, to 
pay a visit to Porte St. Nicholas. Namur 
was taken by Louis XIV. in 1692. 
Racine has written an account of the 
siege, and Boileau celebrated its cap- 
ture in a worthless ode ; it was retaken 
by the English under "William III. 
from the French, after a siege of 10 
weeks, in 1695. It was in this me- 
morable siege that "my uncle Toby" 
was supposed to be engaged. 

The Cathedral of St. Aubin, one of 
the handsomest modern churches in 
Belgium, with a Corinthian facade, 
was finished in 1766. It contains the 
mausoleum of Don John of Austria, 
the conqueror at Lepanto, who died in 
the camp at Bouge, a mile from Namur, 
in 1578, not without suspicion of poi- 
son from the jealousy of his brother 
Philip II. On the rt. of the altar is 
a monument to Bishop Pisani, by a 
sculptor of Ghent, 1829. A new pulpit, 
erected in 1848, from the designs of 
M. Geerts, of Louvain, deserves notice. 
The figures cut in oak, life-size, are 
fine. Beneath the pulpit is a group 
representing the Virgin guarding the 
City of Namur from the Demon of 
Pestilence. Namur is allegorically re- 
presented by a female. 

The Ch. of St. Loup, built by the 
Jesuits, is highly enriched internally 
with marble. It has a roof elaborately 
carved in stone by a brother of the order. 

The situation of Namur is most 



continent, but is greatly in- 
The mines of coal, iron, and 



beautiful, and the best view is from the 
heights occupied by the commanding 
Citadel, which itself is well worthy of 
a visit as a work of art : — an order of 
admission must be obtained from the 
commandant in the town. Namur and 
Huy are among the number of for- 
tresses greatly strengthened after the 
war, under the inspection of the Duke 
of "Wellington, and partly at the ex- 
pense of Great Britain. They form 
part of the great barrier on the side of 
France ; the work of centuries to erect, 
at the cost of vast sums of money, and 
as vast an expenditure of blood. 

Namur is the Belgian Shefiield ; — 
its cutlery is celebrated, and is largely 
manufactured. It is said to approach 
nearer to the English than any made 
on the 
ferior. 

marble, situated in the neighbourhood, 
give employment to an industrious 
population. The crawfish of the Meuse 
are celebrated, and the trout of the 
Sambre not to be despised. 

A dam of masonry is thrown across 
the Sambre at Namur, with the view 
of rendering it navigable. 

Namur has a bridge over the Sambre, 
and one over the Meuse. From the 
rt. bank of the river the view of 
Namur, and its lofty citadel standing on 
a high promontory, at whose foot the 
2 rivers unite, is very picturesque, and 
the scenery continues of a most inter- 
esting character lor many miles. 

3 m. from Namur is the Eremi- 
tage de la Montague, cut in the rock 
by Carmelite monks. The valley of 
the Meuse above Namur, towards Di- 
nant (Rte. 30), is even more picturesque 
than 'below the town. From Dinant 
an excursion may be made to the 
cavern of Hans on the Lesse. (Bte. 31.) 

A Diligence in 20 hrs. to Lxixemburg. 
(Rte. 29.) 

Railroad to Charleroi. (Btes. 28 and 
30.) 

Railroad to Liege, opened 1850. It 
has cost about 1,200,000?., chiefly of 
British capital. It is a fine work ; the 
engineer is G. Eennie, Esq. It runs 
close to the river nearly the whole 
way, and on the 1. bank. The length 
is 61 kilom., or 88$ Eng. m. The Na- 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 24. — THE MEUSE. HUY. 



171 



mur station is outside the Porte de 
Fer. 

Steamers ply on the Mouse, when 
there is water enough, between Namur 
and Liege. In going to Liege the 
voyage of about 45 m. is performed in 
4 hrs. ; from Liege to Namur takes 6 
or 7 hrs. During the summer 2 steamers 
a day leave Namur for Liege, — one at 
6 a.m., the other at 3 p.m. 

The banks of the Meuse between Na- 
mur and Lifye are hardly surpassed in 
beauty by any river scenery in N. 
Europe : rock, wood, and water have 
done their utmost, yet the scenery is not 
properly mountainous. The Mouse has 
been compared to the "Wye ; but is even 
more romantic than the English river. 
'• What lovelier home could gentle fancy 

choose ? 
Is this the stream whose cities, heights, and 

plains, 
War's favourite playground, are with crimson 

stains 
Familiar as the morn with pearly dews ? 
The morn, that now, along the silver Meuse, 
Spreading her peaceful ensigns, calls the swains 
To tend their silent boats and ringing wains, 
Or strip the bough whose mellow fruit bestrews 
The ripening corn beneath it. As mine eyes 
Turn from the fortified and threatening hill, 
How sweet the prospect of yon watery glade, 
With its grey locks clustering in pensive shade, 
That, shaped like old monastic turrets, rise 
From the smooth meadow-ground, serene and 

still!" Wordsworth. 

The Mouse* affords a pleasing mix- 
ture of cultivation and wildness, of ac- 
tive industry and qiuct nature, smoking 
stoam-cngincs and. naked and abrupt 
cliffs of limestone, ruined castles and 
nourishing villages, with huge many- 
windowod mills and factories, which 
give an agreeable variety to the road. 
The district swarms with population 
all the way to Liege, and the soil is in 
the highest state of culture ; the lower 
grounds occupied by the richest corn- 
fields and hop- grounds, or the most 
verdant meadows. These, with the 
winding river flowing between them, 
form the features of a most beautiful 
landscape. The numerous quarries in 
the limestone cliff along the river banks 
afford a very excellent marble, which 
is cut into blocks, and sent down the 
river to Holland, where it is \ised for 

* Mr. Dudley Costello's " Valley of the 
Meuse" contains full details respecting Routes 
24 and 30. 



flag-stoncs, and even for finer purposes. 
On the banks are seen the red stains 
of the earth which furnishes alum to 
numerous works. (The 1. and rt. refer 
to the left and right banks of the river : 
the distances between the several sta- 
tions are given in kilometres.) 

Not far from Namur the chateau of 
Brumagul is passed, and (/.) beneath 
some precipitous cliffs, — 

I. S~ Marchc les Dames Stat., the 
mansion of the Due d'Arembcrg, close 
to some iron- works. It occupies the 
site of an abbey founded, in 1101, by 
139 noble ladies, whose husbands had 
gone to the crusade along with Godfrey 
of Bouillon. 

I. 2f Nambche Stat., a pretty village, 
shrouded by orchards. 

rt. Schlayen. — The neighbourhood 
abounds in coal-mines. 

I. Scillos, a straggling village, with 
marble quarries and limekilns. 

rt. 7 5 Andenne Stat., a manufac- 
turing place, having potteries. Clay 
for tobacco-pipes is exported hence to 
Holland. 

I. 6f Basse Oha Stat., a restored 
castle. The culture of the vine begins 
here, but it produces a poor wine. 

rt. On the heights are the ruins of 
Beaufort Castle. Before reaching the 
next station, at Huy, the railway is 
carried through a tunnel, in order to 
avoid a bend of the river : the fine 
scenery is thtis shut out of view. 

rt. 3f Huy (pronounced We) Station. 
Inn : Poste, at the water-side. This 
town and fortress, with 8000 inhab., is 
romantically situated on the Mouse, 
which divides it into 2 parts, and is 
traversed by an ancient stone bridge. 
Here the Meuse is joined by the little 
river Hoyoux, the scenery of which, 
for many miles above the junction, is 
very picturesque. Near Huy is the cul- 
minating point of the beauties of the 
scenery of the Meuse. The Citadel, 
repaired and strengthened on the most 
approved plans of modern fortification, 
under the direction of skilfnl English 
engineers, since 1815, commands the 
passage up and down the valley of the 
Meuse. The works are partly excavated 
in the solid rock, and high Avails of 
most massive masonry have been added 

12 



172 



ROUTE 24. NEUFMOUSTIER. SERAING. 



Sect. II. 



to the natural precipices on which it 
stands. Strangers are allowed to see 
the fortifications. 

The Collegiate Ch. of Notre Dame, 
founded by St. Maternus, situated under 
the citadel, is approached on one side by 
a gateway, surmounted with sculptures 
in relief, from the Life of the Virgin ; 
the date of the present building is 1311 ; 
the interior is of a graceful style of 
Gothic, and is certainly worthy of being 
examined. 

In one of the suburbs stood the abbey 
of Neufmoustier (i. e. Novum Monas- 
terium), founded by Peter the Hermit, 
the preacher of the first Crusade (d. 
1115), who was himself buried in it. 
His remains and monument were re- 
moved to Rome in 1634 : part of the 
cloisters remain; the church is gone. 
The site is in the property of the Baron 
de Cattus, who allows strangers to see 
the Hermit's burial-place — a cruciform 
vault in the present garden. Neuf- 
moustier was one of the 17 convents 
which existed here, together with 14 
parish churches, while the town was 
under the dominion of the Prince 
JBishop of Liege, though the total popu- 
lation at the time did not exceed 5000 ! 

Huy contains many curious relics of 
its ancient religious houses, now turned 
into workshops, &c. 

At Huy the post-road changes from 
the rt. to the 1. bank of the river. The 
hills are less lofty and precipitous than 
above Huy. Zinc and calamine works 
of considerable magnitude may be seen 
in full activity (1.) at Ampsin, near 
Huy, and at other places along the 
valley of the Meuse, particularly on the 
Liege side of Huy. They are marked 
by the red stains of the refuse along the 
banks. 

I. Corphalie, an extensive zinc ma- 
nufactory ; there are mines of calamine 
near this. 

rt. Chateau de Neufville, in the old 
French style, with 2 turrets. 

8£ Amay Stat. 

I. The stately old abbey of Flone, a 
red brick building, now the residence 
of a lawyer. At 

Engis Stat., close to the railroad, 
there are alum-works. 

I. On an elevated and precipitous 



rock rises the Chateau of Chokier, an old 
building, faced with a modern front, of 
Italian architecture, surmounted by a 
red tower. It is the cradle of the 
family Surlet de Choquier, one of whom 
was Regent of Belgium before the 
election of King Leopold. It was once 
taken and burnt by the Huitois. The 
scarped rock is skirted by the railway. 
Hereabouts the Meuse passes from the 
limestone into the coal formation — into 
a region of steam-engines, smoking 
chimneys, and furnaces. 

11 Flemalle Stat. At this station a 
branch turns off which joins the Mech- 
lin and Aix-la-Chapelle railroad on the 
1. bank. The main line of railway, 
which runs into Liege, crosses the 
Meuse on a bridge of 5 arches, 82 ft. 
span : opposite, rt., is Val St. Lambert, 
where are the largest glass-works on 
the Continent. \\ m. lower down is 

rt. 4~ Seraing Station, a populous 
village, stretching nearly a mile along 
the bank of the Meuse, and occupied 
by workmen, connected by a handsome 
suspension bridge thrown over the 
Meuse with (1.) Jemeppe. This co- 
lossal establishment was formed by the 
enterprising manufacturer the late John 
Cockerill, 1816. It is perhaps the 
largest manufactory of machinery in the 
world ; and occupies the former Palace 
of the Prince Bishops of Liege, which 
now serves but as the facade or vestibule 
of the other vast constructions since 
added to fit it for its present purpose, 
extending f m. back from the river, 
over the space once the Episcopal gar- 
dens, now blackened with coal and 
piled up with iron. Amidst the smoke 
and flames issuing from its 40 or 50 
tall chimneys, its palatial and ecclesi- 
astical character have alike nearly dis- 
appeared. The vast pile of building 
forms a little town of itself ; iron and 
coal are extracted from mines within 
its walls, which also enclose a canal and 
railroad leading down to the river, 4 
blast furnaces, 15 puddling furnaces, 
rolling-mills, and forges, where iron is 
wrought into articles of all sorts from 
penknives up to steam-engines and 
locomotives, inferior only to those made 
in England. A locomotive costs 37,500 
fr. The Lion, on the field of "Waterloo, 



Belgium, 



ROUTE 24. — LIEGE. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



173 



was cast here. 3000 to 4000 workmen 
arc employed at Seraing, in addition to 
15 steam-engines, equivalent to 700- 
horse power. Mr. Cockerill was ori- 
ginally in partnership with the late 
King of Holland ; hut after his expul- 
sion from Belgium, in 1830, Mr. C. 
purchased his share. Mr. C. died at 
Warsaw in 1840, and Seraing has since 
been disposed of to a company, styled 
" La John Cockerill Societe," by whom 
it is now worked. The place is not 
shown, except to persons bearing letters 
of introduction, which may be obtained 
in the office at Liege. 

2 Ougree Stat. 

6j Li€ge Station. (Longdoz Stat.) 

[The branch which turns off at Fle- 
malle, along the 1. bank, is 11 kilom. = 
6 m. 7 furlongs, in length. The sta- 
tions are, 

3£ kilom. Jemeppe Stat., opposite to 
Seraing. 

2 Tilleur Stat. 

5£ Guillemins Stat, on the main line 
of railroad to Aix-la-Chapelle, and on 
the 1. bank of the river above Liege.] 

Li£ge ( Flemish, Luik ; German, 
Luttich.) — Inns: H. de Bellevue, op- 
posite the Pont de la Boverie, good; 
room, I5 fr. and upwards; breakfast, 
1 fr. ; table-d'hote at 1, 2£ fr. ; H. 
d'Angleterre, good ; H. de Suede ; 
Aigle Noir ; H. de 1' Europe, clean ; 
le Sauvage, opposite the Cathedral; 
H. de France ; H. de Londres, good 
and moderate ; H. de l'Univers, close 
to the Railway, good. 

Liege is finely situated at the junc- 
tion of the Ourthe with the Meuse, in 
a fertile valley most productive in vege- 
tables; it has 76,379 inhab., and no 
other Belgian town appears to be so 
thriving. The clouds of smoke usually 
seen from a distance hanging over it 
proclaim the manufacturing city, — the 
Birmingham of the Low Countries; 
and the dirty houses, murky atmosphere, 
and coal-stained streets, are the natural 
consequence of the branch of industry 
in which its inhabitants are engaged. 
The staple manufacture is that of fire- 
arms ; Liege is, in fact, one great ar- 
moury, and produces a better article, it 
is said, at a low price, than can be 
made for the same sum in England. 



The saddlery is also very good here, 
and a particular kind of coarse cloth 
is manufactured in large quantities. 
There is a Royal Cannon Foundry in 
the suburb of St. Leonhard, and Mr., 
Cockerill' s establishment manufactures 
spinning machineiy and steam-engines 
to rival the English. The cause of this 
commercial prosperity is, as might be 
conjectured, the presence of coal in 
great abundance close at hand. The 
mines are worked upon very scientific 
principles : some of them are situated 
so near to the town that their galleries 
are carried under the streets, so that 
many of the houses, and even the bed 
of the river, are in some places under- 
mined. Previous to the Revolution 
Holland was supplied with coal from 
Belgium ; but the home consumption 
has since increased to such an extent, 
from the numerous manufactories which 
have sprung up on all sides, that the 
Belgian mines are now inadequate to 
supply the demand, and a law has been 
passed permitting the importation of 
coals from Newcastle. 

Liege once contained 40 religious 
houses, 32 parish churches, and 7 col- 
legiate churches, besides the cathedral. 
21 churches remain. The buildings 
best worth notice in Liege are, the 
Church of St. Jacques, and the court of 
the Palais de Justice, formerly palace of 
the Prince Bishop, built by the Cardl. 
Bishop Erard de la Marck, 1583. The 
stunted pillars of the colonnade which 
surrounds it bear a resemblance to 
those of the ducal palace at Venice, and 
have a striking effect. Each pillar is 
carved with a different pattern. Tho 
front of the palace is modern, but in 
the rear remains much good Gothic 
of the 16th cent. A tower of brick 
rising over the roof, now a prison, was 
originally the Bishop's watch-tower. 

In the square in front of tho Bishop's 
palace stood the cathedral of St. Lam- 
bert. It was utterly destroyed by the 
French revolutionists, and no traces of 
it now remain. 

The present Cathedral, formerly the 
collegiate ch. of St. Paul, was founded, 
in 967, by Bp, Heraclius, It is a fine 
building, 82 ft. high, of good propor- 
tions, surmounted by a black spire, 



174 



ROUTE 24. — LIEGE. CHURCHES. UNIVERSITY. Sect. II. 



with turrets at the angles (the choir of 
the 13th cent., the nave 1557) ; and 
its new cedar-wood pulpit, carved hy 
Geefs, with 5 marble statues beneath 
it (of Eeligion, with SS. Peter, Paul, 
Lambert, and Hubert, also by Geefs), 
is an example of the perfection to which 
this art is brought in Belgium. It also 
contains a picture by Lairesse. No one 
is ever buried here ; why, is not known. 

St. Jacques (date 1513-28), lately 
repaired by the government, is the finest 
of the existing churches : the arches 
are elegantly fringed ; it possesses wide 
windows (filled with painted glass), 
elegantly mullioned ; net- work screens ; 
reeded pillars, branching into rich tra- 
cery, spreading over the roof, studded 
with embossed ornaments, containing 
within them gay arabescoes, medallions 
of saints, sovereigns, and prelates innu- 
merable, all most gorgeously, yet har- 
moniously,* painted and gilt. — Hope. 
The painted glass in the choir (date, 
early in the 16th cent.) ranks among 
the most perfect productions of the art 
in Europe. 

This church may be visited on the 
way to or from the railroad. 

Liege contains many churches of great 
antiquity. St. Bartholomew 's Church, 
a Basilica, built about 1000, is finely 
carved in front, and possesses a beau- 
tiful brass font, a masterpiece of Gothic 
art in the beginning of the 13th cent. 
St. Denis was consecrated in 990; it 
is chiefly Romanesque ; the choir is 
Gothic. St. Croix is very ancient, with 
a tower in a Moorish style. 

There is a good view from the tower 
of St. Martin's. 

The University is a handsome build- 
ing, erected by the late King of Hol- 
land in 1817. It contains a Museum, 
which, though not very complete or 
well arranged, possesses some objects of 
interest, as illustrating the natural his- 
tory of this part of Belgium ; such as 
the collection of fossil bones from this 
and the neighbouring provinces. " Near 
Liege there are numerous caverns, 
which have acquired celebrity from the 
abundant and remarkable animal re- 

* The painting of the roof is nearly the 
same as that of St. Anastasio, Verona, as given 
in Gruner's great work on Art in Italy. 



mains they have afforded, and the in- 
terest attached to them is heightened 
by the discovery of human bones and 
skulls in the same cave with bones of 
bears, hyaenas, the elephant, and rhi- 
noceros. It would appear, however, 
that the remains of man were intro- 
duced at a later period than those of 
the animals. The principal caves are 
those of Engis, Chokier, Bamioul, 
Engihoul, Huy, Fond de Foret, Gof- 
fontaine." (T. T.) The library con- 
tains, besides books, many curious MSS. 
collected from suppressed monasteries. 
A Botanic Garden, well stored with 
plants, and beautifully kept, is attached 
to the University. There are 17 pro- 
fessors, who lecture to about 500 stu- 
dents in the various faculties. 

Post Office, Bue de la Begence. 

Vigilantes, § 22 A. 

There are 3 bridges over the Meuse : 
the Pont des Arches, the oldest, and 
lowest down the stream — the steamers 
bring- to near it ; the Pont de la Boverie, 
of 4 arches ; and the Pont du Val Benoit, 
for the passage of the railroad ; and one 
over the Meurthe, a truly handsome 
recent structure. 

The Casino in the outskirts of Liege, 
in the midst of some ornamental grounds, 
is worth a visit (§ 40). English 
strangers are admitted to the balls 
given here. 

Outside the walls, in the convent of 
St. Julian, Sir John Mandeville, the 
English traveller, who died here 1372, 
was buried. The chapel exists, and a 
number of indiscriminate bones, but 
there is nothing to mark his grave. 

Gretry, the composer, was born here, 
in a house marked by an inscribed 
tablet on the front, in the Bue des 
Becollets, on the rt. bank of the Meuse. 
A statue of him, in bronze, 13 ft. high, 
by Geefs, is set up in the Square facing 
the University, which is called after 
him Place Gretry. 

The florist should visit Makois' gar- 
den near Liege, one of the most cele- 
brated in Belgium : from it there is a 
fine view of the town. 

Liege, in mediaeval Latin, was 
called Leodium, and is the capital of 
the Walloons, who spread from this to 
Longwy in France and to Mons, and 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 24. — LIEGE. QUENTIN DURWARD. 



175 



are very anxious not to be supposed 
Flemish, claiming a descent from the 
Eburones. The "Walloon language, 
spoken by the lower orders, is a dialect, 
or rather idiom, of the French (see 
p. 95), and resembles the old French 
of the 13th cent., but contains many 
Celtic and some Teutonic words unknown 
to French of any age. The Walloons, 
like the Swiss, served in former times 
in the armies of Spain, Austria, and 
France; they were generally enrolled 
into cavalry regiments : a regiment of 
700 men composed the standing army 
or body-guard of the Ecclesiastical 
Princes of Liege. 

The German Emperors, as early as 
the 10th cent., raised the Bishops of 
Liege to the rank of sovereign and 
independent princes, and bestowed ter- 
ritory upon them, which they held as a 
fief of the empire. At the time of the 
visit of Pope Innocent II. with St. Ber- 
nard, in 1131, the chapter of St. Lam- 
bert was the noblest known : of its 60 
canons, 9 were sons of kings, 14 sons 
of dukes, 29 counts, and 7 barons ; one 
only was not of noble birth. The Pope 
sang mass before the Emperor Lothaire 
and the Empress, and crowned them in 
the cathedral. The government of the 
bishops was never strong, and the his- 
tory of Liege is little better than a 
narrative of a succession of bloody re- 
volutions, in which a discontented 
populace struggled for freedom and 
power and licence with a despotic and 
often incompetent ruler. Liege, never- 
theless, remained under the dominion 
of its bishops down to the time of the 
French invasion, 1794. It is recorded 
that one of them had the audacity to 
declare war against Louis XIV. ; for 
which temerity he was chastised by 
having the town bombarded about his 
cars for 5 days, by Marshal Boufflers, in 
1691. 

A visit to Liege, and the ancient 
Bishop's palace, will call to the mind 
of an Englishman the vivid scenes and 
descriptions of Quentin Durward. lie 
will, however, in vain endeavour to 
identify many of the places there spoken 
of with the spot. The Bishop's " Castle 
of Schonwaldt, situated about 10 m. 
from the town," cannot bo Seraing, as 



it was not built till a much later period 
Sir "Walter Scott never visited Liego 
himself, so that his localities are purely 
imaginary ; yet from the vividness of 
his description of the town, and the 
perfect consistency of all his topogra- 
phical details, few readers would doubt 
that he was personally acquainted with 
it. He has also made a slight variation 
in the romance from the real facts of 
history, as far as relates to Liege : and 
as the events on which he founded the 
novel are of the highest interest, and 
serve to illustrate the story of this 
ancient " imperial free city," it may 
not be amiss shortly to relate them. 
The citizens of Liege, puffed up, as 
Philip de Comines says, by pride and 
riches, gave constant proofs of their 
boldness and independence by acts of 
insubordination, and even of open re- 
bellion, against their liege lord, Charles 
the Bold of Burgundy, and against the 
bishops, who were his allies or sup- 
ported by him. He had inflicted severe 
chastisement upon the Liegeois after 
his victory at St. Trond (when many 
thousands of them were left dead on the 
field), by abridging their privileges and 
taking away their banners ; and when 
they submissively brought him the keys 
of the town, he refused to enter by the 
gates, but compelled them to batter 
down the city wall for a distance of 
20 fathoms, and fill up the ditch. He 
then entered by the breach, with his 
visor down, his lance in rest, at the 
head of his armed bands, as a con- 
queror ; and further, to disable the bold 
burghers from mutiny, ordered all their 
fortifications to be demolished. This 
punishment was inflicted in 1467 ; but 
it was so little regarded, that the very 
next year they again broke out into 
open revolt, at the instigation of secret 
emissaries of Louis XI., seized upon 
the person of their bishop in his castle 
at Tongrcs, and brought him prisoner 
to Liege. 

They were headed by one John de 
Vilde, or Ville, called by the French 
Le Sauvagc : it is not improbable that 
he was an Englishman, whose real name 
was Wild, and that he was one of those 
lawless soldiers who at that time served 
wherever: they got best pay, changing 



176 ROUTE 24. — LIEGE. BESIEGED BY CHARLES THE BOLD. Sect. II. 



sides whenever it suited them. The 
Liegeois, under this Vilde, committed 
many acts of cruelty, cutting in pieces, 
before the bishop's eyes, one of his 
attendants, and murdering 16 others, 
who were canons of the church, on the 
road to Liege. In Sir Walter Scott's 
romance "William de la Marck plays 
nearly the same part as "Wild ; but in 
reality this bishop succeeded soon after 
in making his escape. 

In 1482, 14 years after the events 
narrated in the novel, and long after 
the death of Charles the Bold, William 
de la Marck, The Wild Boar of Ardennes, 
wishing to obtain the mitre for his son, 
murdered the Bishop of Liege, Louis 
de Bourbon, whom Charles the Bold 
had supported. 

When tidings of the proceedings of 
the men of Liege were brought to 
Charles the Bold at Peronne, he im- 
mediately laid Louis under arrest, 
exactly as described in the novel, and 
compelled him to march against the 
rebels, at the head of his soldiers, while 
he led on his own Burgundians. Louis 
showed little hesitation to comply with 
the proposal, though the citizens were 
his allies, and he had in fact fomented 
the rebellion. Nothing, however, ap- 
pears to have damped the courage of 
the Liegeois : they made 3 separate 
sallies out of their breaches and over 
their ruined walls. They were led on 
by the same Vilde, who in one of these 
attacks was slain, but not before he had 
laid low many of the bravest among the 
Burgundian guards. Their last sally was 
planned at a moment when the invad- 
ing forces, tired out with long watch- 
ing, had taken off their armour and 
retired to rest, previous to the grand 
assault on the town, which Charles and 
Louis had arranged for the following 
morning. The foremost in this enter- 
prise were 600 men from a town called 
Franchimont, on the road between 
Liege and Spa, firm allies of the citi- 
zens, and considered their bravest sol- 
diers. Like the Spartans and Komans 
of old, these 600 devoted themselves to 
the enterprise of seizing or slaying the 
2 princes, as they lay in their quarters 
before the town, or agreed to perish 
in the attempt. About midnight the 



Scotch archers and Burgundian guards 
attached to the persons of the 2 sove- 
reigns were roused by a terrible alarm 
of the enemy, who had penetrated al- 
most up to the 2 houses in which the 
princes were lodged, without discovery. 
The attack was so sudden, and the con- 
fusion which ensued so much aug- 
mented by the jealousy which subsisted 
between the Duke and the King, each 
believing the other to be concerned in 
the plot, that the enterprise had nearly 
succeeded. But having recovered from 
the surprise, and hastily put on their 
armour, they succeeded at last, with 
the aid of their guards, in driving back 
the assailants, and the brave men of 
Franchimont were for the most part cut 
to pieces. 

The next day the city was stormed, 
as intended; but the invaders found 
less resistance than was expected. It 
appeared that the citizens had supposed 
themselves secure on that day, because 
it was Sunday, and were taking some 
rest after the exertions of the preceding 
night. So unsuspicious were they in- 
deed, that the besiegers found the cloth 
laid in almost every house which they 
entered, as it happened to be dinner- 
time. Many were slaughtered at once, 
to appease the vengeance of Charles ; a 
great number fled to the woods, only 
to perish there of cold. The city was 
condemned by him to destruction ; and 
no sooner had he qiutted it than it 
was set on fire in three places, and all 
the buildings, except churches or con- 
vents, burnt to the ground. 

These events took place in 1468 ; 
before that time the number of inhabit- 
ants exceeded 120,000. 

Much interesting matter, relating to 
the town and its environs, may be read 
in "Promenades Historiques dans le 
Pays le Liege, par le Docteur B — y." 

Environs. — A very extensive pros- 
pect may be obtained from the heights 
above the town, especially from the old 
Citadel on Mont St. Walburg, on the 1. 
bank of the Meuse. Another good 
poistxjfview is the Fort Chartreuse, 
an eminence on the opposite side of the 
valley. The junction of the 3 valleys 
of the Meuse, Ourthe, and Yesdre, close 
to Liege, with the outline of the Ar- 



Belgium, 



ROUTE 25. — LIKGE TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 



177 



dcnnes in the distance, forms a land- 
scape of no ordinary beauty. 

At Rohermont, a height above the 
Chartreuse, the Austrians, under the 
Prince of Coburg, suffered a defeat 
(1794) from the French under Jour- 
dain, which wrested the Pays-Bas for 
ever from the house of Austria. 

Herstal, see below. 

Excursions to Spa and Chaud Fon- 
taine, described lite. 25, and to the 
caves of Maestricht, which will occupy 
6 or 8 hrs. by steamer. 

In order to gain admittance to see 
the Iron Works at Seraing, a written 
order must be obtained from the Cocke- 
rill Society's office in Liege. An omni- 
bus goes thither every hour. 

Steamers ply, when there is water 
enough, daily to and from Namur ; 
daily to Rotterdam, stopping for the 
night at Yenloo. 



Lie'ge to Maestricht. — Steamers twice 
a-day, in 2£ hrs., returning in 4 h. 
Baggage is searched at the custom- 
houses. The landing-place of the 
steamers is close to the Pont des 
Arches. The river Meuse has been 
canalised between Liege and Maes- 
tricht, and the canal furnished with 
locks, so as to maintain a passage for 
vessels at all seasons. The first objects 
to remark are — 

1. The Mont de Piete, of red brick 
with stone quoins, and the Royal Can- 
non Foundry, backed by the hill of the 
citadel. 

1. A round tower; the stump of a 
burnt windmill. 

rt. Jupille, peeping from among the 
trees, with its ch., was the favourite 
resort of King Pepin, who died here 
714. 

rt. Souverain Wandre. 

1. About 3 m. from Liege is Herstal, 
birthplace of Pepin le Gros, Maire du 
Palais to the last Merovingian Kings 
of France. There are some fragments 
of a Frankish (?) Palaoe with 2 turrets 
near the Town-house. The village 
has stretched itself nearly 3 m. along 
the shore towards Liege, and is nearly 
united to it. Its inhabitants are chiefly 
workpeople. 

rt. Chateau of Argenteau: belongs 



to the wealthy Count Mercy. Argen- 
teau is finely placed on the summit of 
a rocky height. The court is con- 
nected by a bridge with another rock 
occupied by gardens. 

rt. Vise, once a fortress, was the 
head-quarters of Louis XIV. in 1673, 
during the siege of Maestricht. The 
fortifications were razed by the inhabit- 
ants, 1775. 

1. Lixhe : Belgian custom-house. 

rt. Eysden : Dutch custom-house. 

The summit of the Pietersberg is 
crowned by the Chateau Caster, be- 
longing to M. de Brouckerc. The 
ruins of a Roman fort, called Lichten- 
berg, are also visible, and near it the 
entrance to the cavern. On the N. 
slope of the hill run the walls of the 
citadel. 

1. Maestricht (R. 27, p. 186). The 
Inns are a good way from the water- 
side, but the guide to the quarries of 
the Pietersberg (Courtens) lives a little 
way within the gate, near the Arsenal. 

ROUTE 25. 

LIEGE TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE, BY VER- 
VIERS, RAILWAY. — VISIT TO SPA. 

55 kilom. = 34| m. 

This Railway was finished in 1843- 
44. Trains, in 1\ hrs., exclusive of a 
stoppage of 1 hr. at the custom-house 
of Venders. Travellers bent on a pe- 
destrian excursion would be well repaid 
by ascending the valley of the Vesdre 
on foot as far as Dolhain. 

The country between Liege and Aix- 
la-Chapelle presented serious obstacles 
to the formation of a railway, which 
have been overcome only by the utmost 
skill and arduous exertions of the en- 
gineer. The cost exceeded 25,000,000 
francs ; there are no less than 1 9 tunnels 
in the Belgian part of the line alone, 
so that it has been compared to a needle 
run through a corkscrew. It is con- 
ducted across the Meuse by a fine 
bridge {Pont du Val St. Benoit) of 
7 arches, 469 ft. long, a little way above 
Liege. It afterwards follows nearly 
the same line as the high road as far as 
Limburg, crossing the Vesdre by 17 
bridges, and repeatedly piercing the 
rock. 

13 



178 



ROUTE 25. — CHAUDFONTAINE. FRANCHIMONT. Sect. II. 



The river Ourthe is crossed by a 
bridge of 3 arches at 

4 Chenee Stat. — a place of manufac- 
ture at the junction of the Ourthe with 
the Yesdre (the s is pronounced in this 
word) : the railway ascends the agree- 
able valley of the Vesdre, one of the 
most charming in Belgium, crossing the 
windings of the stream all the way to 
Limburg. The scenery is enlivened by 
neat villas and gardens interspersed 
with orchards and green pastures, alter- 
nating with large manufactories, prin- 
cipally of cloth, giving to it an English 
character. 

3 Chaudfontaine Stat. — Inns : H. 
des Bains, a large bathing establish- 
ment. H. de Liege was not open 
(1849) as an hotel. The hot spring, 
which supplies the baths, rises in an 
island in the midst of the Vesdre. The 
water is pumped up by a large wheel 
turned by the stream. 

This little village is a favourite Sun- 
day resort of the Liegeois : its situation 
is charming ; the scenery around bears 
some resemblance to that of Matlock, 
and the wooded heights which enclose 
it abound in shady walks leading to 
points of extensive view when the 
summit is reached. The Vesdre was a 
good fishing stream, but it is said that 
the grayling have been destroyed in 
this part by the erection of some zinc- 
works about a mile higher up. 

4 Trooz Stat. 

4 Nessonvaux Stat. 

5 Pepinstre Stat, 

rt. is a modern Gothic castle of the 
Vicomte de Viollay, a manufacturer of 
Venders, said to occupy the site of King 
Pepin's hunting lodge. 

rt. Here the road to Spa (8 m.) turns 
off. Coaches and omnibuses run thither 
in 1^ hr. Fares, 1^ fr. in the coupe, 
1 fr. in the omnibus : 6 or 7 frs., and 
even 12, at the hotels at Spa, are charged 
for a 2-horse carriage for 5 or 6 persons. 
Post-horses may be had at Pepinstre. 



Excursion to Spa, 2J posts. 

*#* Travellers pressed for time, and 
wishing to make the best use of it, will 
hardly be rewarded in turning out of 
their road to visit Spa : as a watering- 



place it is much fallen off, and its 
scenery is inferior to that of the Rhine. 
At the village of Pepinstre a road 
on the rt. turns off to Spa, along the 
valley of the Hoegne, equally pleasing 
with that of the Vesdre, clothed with 
meadows of the brighest verdure, and 
enlivened by many country-houses, be- 
longing principally to the manufac- 
turers of Verviers. Long lines of cloth 
hung out in the sun proclaim the staple 
manufacture of the district. A little 
beyond the village of Theux, famous 
for its quarries of black marble, are 
seen 

" The Towers of Franchimont, 
Which, like an eagle's nest in air, 
Hang o'er the stream and hamlet fair. 
Deep in their vaults, the peasants say, 
A mighty treasure buried lay, 
Amass'd through rapine and through wrong 
By the last lord of Franchimont. 
The iron chest is bolted hard, 
A huntsman sits, its constant guard ; 
Around his neck his horn is hung, 
His hanger in his belt is slung ; 
Before his feet his bloodhounds lie : 
An 'twere not for his gloomy eye, 
Whose withering glance no art can brook, 
As true a huntsman doth he look 
As bugle ere in brake did sound, 
Or ever halloo'd to a hound. 

" To chase the fiend, and win the prize 
In that same dungeon, ever tries 
An aged necromantic priest ; 
It is an hundred years at least 
Since 'twixt them first the strife begun, 
And neither yet has lost or won. 
And oft the conjuror's words will make 
The stubborn demon groan and quake, 
And oft the bands of iron break, 
Or bursts one lock that still amain 
Fast as 'tis open'd shuts again. 
Thus magic strife within the tomb 
May last until the day of doom, 
Unless the adept shall learn to tell 
The very word that clench'd the spell, 
When Franchimont lock'd the treasure cell. 
An hundred years are pass'd and gone, 
And scarce three letters has he won." 

Walter Scott. 

During the siege of Liege by Charles 
the Bold and Louis XL, 600 inhabit- 
ants of Franchimont banded themselves 
together with the design of seizing the 
persons of these two monarchs as they 
lay encamped before the walls. They 
failed in their bold attempt, as has been 
already related, and paid for their 
heroism with their lives. An inscrip- 
tion on the face of the rock, by the road • 
side, still keeps alive the recollection of 
the deed. (See p. 176.) 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 25. SPA. THE POUHON. 



179 



At the end of an avenue of lime-trees, 
a mile long, lies 

2^ Spa. — Intra : II. de Flandres ; has 
a good table-d'hote, and is a fair house 
in other respects. — H. de York ; table - 
d'hote 3 frs. — H. de Bellevue at one end 
of the town, in an airy situation ; civil 
and moderate in charges. — II. d' Orange, 
excellent. — H. de Flandres. — H. des 
Pays- Bas, cheap; table-d'hote 2 fr. a 
head, very good. Charges, 2 to 5 fr. a 
day for a room ; table-d'hote, 3 fr. ; 
breakfast, 25 sous ; dinner in private, 
3 fr. ; a bottle of Bordeaux wine, 3 fr. 
Servants arc fed at 3 fr. a day. When 
the party exceeds 2 or 3, or where per- 
sons take up their residence for some 
time, an abatement is made in the 
charges. A person about to make some 
stay may bargain beforehand to be 
boarded and lodged for 5 fr. a day, and 
at the Bellevue for 3^ and 4 frs. a day 
during the winter. 

A good furnished house with sta- 
bling may be had for about 607. a year. 

The small mutton of the Ardennes 
enjoys so high a reputation, even in 
other countries, that instances have oc- 
curred of the larger portion of a sheep 
being conveyed in the Belgian minister's 
despatch bag to some of the aristocratic 
dinner-tables of London. 

Spa is almost made up of inns and 
lodging-houses, many of which are shut 
up in winter. The number of perma- 
nent inhab. is about 4000. 

It is very prettily situated in a sort 
of semi-basin, in the midst of mountains 
forming part of the Ardennes Chain ; 
the heights overhanging it arc covered 
with shrubberies, and intersected by 
healthful and airy walks, with pleasing 
prospects at intervals. A large part of 
the town is built close under the rocks, 
which, so far from holding out any en- 
couragement to this near approxima- 
tion, have on several occasions given 
the inhabitants a warning to keep at a 
respectful distance, by overwhelming 
their dwellings with vast masses of stone 
detached from above. Several houses 
near the Promenade do Sept Ilcures 
remain either wholly or partly buried 
amidst heaps of debris occasioned by a 
slide of part of the mountain. The hint 
has not altogether been attended to ; 



the roofs shattered by the falling of 
rocks have been repaired, and the houses 
again tenanted, though exposed con- 
stantly to a recurrence of the danger. 
A. new Bath House is built near the 
Promenade de Sept Heures. 

The principal spring, called the 
Pouhon (pouher, in Walloon, is the same 
as puiser, to draw), is situated in the 
centre of the town, under a colonnade 
built by the King of the Netherlands 
in honour of Peter the Great. The 
building contains a pump-room, in 
which a band plays from 7 to 9 a.m. 
and the newspapers of different coun- 
tries are to be seen. From this spring 
comes the Spa water, which is sent to 
the ends of the earth for the benefit of 
invalids. It is an admirable tonic, good 
for nervous and bilious disorders. It 
owes its medical properties to the iron 
with which it is impregnated in greater 
quantity than any other spring known, 
mingled with a considerable proportion 
of salts; while the superabundance of 
carbonic acid in it renders it agreeable to 
drink, capable of being transported to 
great distances, and of being preserved in 
bottles for a long period without injury. 
Not many yards from this spring is the 
Redoute, a handsome building, which 
includes, under one roof, a cafe, a theatre, 
ball-room, and gambling-rooms, where 
rouge et noir, roulette, and similar 
games are carried on nearly from morn- 
ing to night. On Saturday a ball is 
given here during the season. 

In former times the gaming-houses 
belonged to the Bishop of Liege, who 
was a partner in the concern, and de- 
rived a considerable revenue from his 
share in the ill-gotten gains of the 
manager of the establishment, and no 
gambling tables could be set up with- 
out his permission. The handsome 
edifice called Vauxhall, built as a 
second Redoute, and much frequented 
in former times, though now aban- 
doned, has been used as a church, 
where the English service is performed 
on Sundays; but an English chapel is 
about to bo erected behind the 
Pouhon. 

A bookseller near the Pouhon has 
a reading-room, where "The Times" 
and one or two other English papers 



180 



ROUTE 25. — SPA. MODE OF LIVING. 



Sect. II. 



are taken in. A list is published from 
time to time of all the arrivals in Spa ; 
a large proportion of the names are 
English. Spa has, however, of late 
much fallen off in the number as well 
as rank of its visitors. It is, in fact, 
out of fashion. Since 1834 the Eng- 
lish have deserted it for the Brunnen 
of Nassau, which far surpass Spa in 
their situation, and have another ad- 
vantage in their near proximity to the 
beauties of the Rhine, in a district 
which offers excursions almost without 
end. During the time when Spa was 
the first watering-place in Europe, 
monarchs were as plentiful as weavers 
from Venders now are at the springs ; 
and more than once a congress of 
crowned heads has met here for sani- 
tary, not for political purposes. Charles 
II. visited the spot while in exile ; and 
Peter the Great repaired hither repeat- 
edly. 

The Baths are in a building sepa- 
rated from the spring ; they belong to 
the town. A bath costs 2 francs. 

Two English physicians are estab- 
lished at Spa, with the licence of the 
Belgian government, — Dr. Cutler and 
Dr. Dennis. 

The other mineral springs besides 
the Pouhon are 5. in number, and are 
at a distance of between 2 and 3 m. 
from the town. The principal are — 
1. The Geronstere ; it is very beautifully 
situated. 2. The Sauveniere, on the 
road to Malmedi, in a little plantation 
of trees, about lj m. from Spa. Near it, 
in the shrubbery, is a monument set up 
(1787) by the D. de Chartres (L. Philippe) 
and his 3 sisters in remembrance of their 
mother having received her cure from the 
use of these waters. The inauguration 
of it is described by Mad. de Genlis in 
her memoirs. It was destroyed by re- 
publican soldiers, 1792, and has been 
recently restored. 3. The Groesbeck, 
not far from the Sauveniere. 4. The 
Tonnelets, so called because the water 
was first collected in little tubs. There 
are baths attached to this spring. 5. 
The Barrasart. 

The daily routine at Spa is nearly as 
follows: — People begin the day with 
a preparatory glass at the Pouhon, to 
which they repair en deshabille, in their 



dressing- growns, about 6 or 7 o'clock; 
after which they proceed, generally on 
horseback or in carriages, to the springs 
out of the town. Attached to almost 
all of them is a building corresponding 
to a pump-room, and they are sur- 
rounded with pleasure grounds and 
walks, where a band of music is sta- 
tioned, while the drinkers make their 
promenade to and fro till about 9 
o'clock. At that hour the company 
return home, dress, and breakfast. As 
early as 11 in the morning the fatal 
Redoute opens, but there are the more 
healthy pleasures of exploring the 
walks and rides of the neighbourhood 
for such as do not patronise the gaming- 
table. It is the custom here for every- 
body to ride on horseback. There are 
a great many ponies for hire ; when a 
visitor finds out a tolerable one, he had 
better engage it for the whole period of 
his stay. 

The hire of a pony for the whole 
day is 5 or 6 fr., and 2 or 3 fr. are paid 
to go and return from the springs in 
the morning. A carriage for making 
the tour of the springs costs 8 fr. ; chars- 
a-banc and open omnibuses take per- 
sons round the springs at £ fr. a-head. 
The dinner hour at the table-d'hote is 
2 or 3 o'clock. 

There are 2 packs of English hounds 
kept at Spa. There is much game in 
the neighbourhood, and good trout and 
grayling fishing. There are Races in 
August. 

Spa is famous for a peculiar manu- 
factory of Wooden Toys, somewhat like 
the Tunbridge ware. The wood of 
which they are formed is stained by 
being steeped in the mineral waters, 
and receives a dark grey or brown tint 
from the iron. A considerable number 
of hands, and some artists of no mean 
skill, are employed in decorating them 
with paintings of flowers, &c. 

There are two walks in the town, 
called the Promenades de Quatre ffeures 
and de Sept Heures, from the time of 
the day when they are frequented. Less 
monotonous are the winding paths up 
the heights overlooking the town. 

The Cascade de Coo, about 9 m. S. of 
Spa, 3 m. from Stavelot, is one of the 
customary excursions of the visitors at 



ROUTE 25. — REMOUCHAMPS. VERVIERS. 



Belgium, 

Spa. The road thither passes the 
Gheronstere and the villages R\i and 
Roanne. The river Ambleve forms the 
cascade, descending 30 or 40 ft. 

The limestone mountains which com- 
pose the chain of Ardennes abound in 
natural caverns. One of these lies 
about 9 m. W. of Spa, at a place called 
Ji'cmouchamps. It contains some fine 
stalactites ; but the views and descrip- 
tions published of it arc on the whole 
exaggerated. The way to it is over 
a very stony cross-road, difficult to find 
without the aid of a guide. It passes 
the village of La Reid, up several steep 
hills, and across a wild heath, and 
thence descends into a rugged ravine, 
in which lie the cave and village of 
Remouchamps. At the little Inn the 
visitor is provided with a blouse to 
keep his dress clean, with candles, and a 
guide. The entrance is closed by a 
door, the keys of which are kept in the 
village, and it is shown for the benefit 
of the commune. The path is wet and 
slippery. The grotto is traversed by a 
stream which is supposed to be the same 
as that which buries itself in the ground 
near Adseaux, and which must pursue 
a subterranean course of some miles 
before it arrives at Remouchamps. 
This cave is situated in the rock called 
by geologists the mountain limestone. 
It alternates with clay slate. 

Nearly opposite the cave stands Mont- 
jardin, an old castle on the top of an 
escarped rock, still inhabited, and sur- 
rounded by gardens. 

3 m. W. of Remouchamps is the 
little village of Ambleve; and over- 
hanging it the scanty ruins of another 
old castle, called by country people 
les Quatre Fils Aymon (after these preux 
chevaliers of the nursery story-book) : 
though reduced to a few broken walls, 
the recollection of the old romance 
gives an interest to it. It is likewise 
interesting as the residence of William 
de la Marck, the Boar of Ardennes, 
so called from the ferocity of his dispo- 
sition, which has, however, been some- 
what exaggerated by Sir Walter Scott, 
in the novel of Quentin Durward. He 
indeed slew the archbishop, but not in 
cold blood and at his own table, but in 
open fight, with arms in his hands, 



181 



before the gates of Liege, in 1482. 
Some subterranean apartments, cut in 
the rock beneath the castle, are curious. 
A different road may be taken in re- 
turning to Spa, by Adseux, near which 
a river precipitates itself into a natural 
arch or cavern, and thence to Haute 
Beaumont (or Hodebomont) . According 
to the notions of the peasantry, this and 
other caves of the country are haunted 
by spirits ; they call them Trous des 
Sotais. 

The traveller may proceed at once 
from Spa to the Rhine by way of 
Malmedi (Rte. 43) and Treves, and 
thence descend the Moselle to Coblenz 
by steam ; or he may post from Mal- 
medi to Prtim, and there turning aside 
explore Eifel and its extinct volcanoes 
(Rte. 45), and descend upon the most 
beautiful part of the Moselle, near the 
baths of Bertrich. By the first route it 
would take about 6 days to reach Cob- 
lenz, and by the second about 4 days. 
In travelling post it is easy to reach Mal- 
medi from Liege in one day, and 
Treves in a second day. The borders of 
the Moselle abound in objects of in- 
terest, combining picturesque scenery, 
wonderful geological phenomena, and 
remarkable Roman remains. 

In going from Spa to Vervicrs we are 
compelled to retrace our steps as far as 
Pepvnstre. 

From Lie'ge to Aix, continued. 

The valley presents a succession of 
large cloth factories, alternating with 
the neat and handsome country houses 
and gardens of their proprietors. The 
railway passes through 

3 Ensival Stat. 

2 Verviers Stat. The baggage of 
travellers entering Belgium from Prus- 
sia is examined here, a tedious process, 
detaining the train an hour or more, 
and the carriages are changed. The 
Inns near the station are so bad that it 
is preferable to repair to those in the 
town, although 1 m. off. There is a 
" Restauration " at the station. 

Verviers (Inns : II. dc Flandres ; 
H. des Pays-Bas ; II. do France), on 
the Vesdre : its population already ex- 
ceeds 27,000 ; an instance of recent 
and rapid growth, chiefly owing to the 



182 



ROUTE 26. — BRUSSELS TO LIEGE. 



Sect. II. 



flourishing state of its cloth, manufac- 
tories, which are said to produce se- 
cond-rate fabrics cheaper and better 
than those of England and France. 
They employ in and around Verviers 
40,000 hands ; the cloth is exported to 
Italy and Ameriea, and formerly was 
consumed in large quantities by Hol- 
land. The Belgian army is clothed 
from the looms of Verviers. The 
water of the Vesdre is said to possess 
properties which fit it admirably for 
dyeing. 

8 Dolhain Stat. Here passengers are 
sometimes made to alight in order that 
it may be seen that the carriages contain 
no small luggage. 

Dolhain, once a suburb of Limburg, 
is now the town. On an eminence to 
the rt. above it a church tower and 
some crumbling walls are seen : this is 
Limburg, formerly capital of the duchy 
of Limburg, now united to the province 
of Liege. The town, once flourishing 
and strongly fortified, is reduced nearly 
to ruin. Its outworks were blown up 
by the French in the time of Louis XIV. 
(1675), and various calamities of war 
and fire have made it little better than 
a heap of ruins. Even so late as 
1833-4, a fire consumed 40 houses and 
a church. The Ch. of St. George, 
gutted by fire not many years ago, plain 
within, contains an elegant Gothic ta- 
bernacle (date 1520), and a monument 
to a princess of Baden (1672). The 
view into the valley is pleasing, but 
there is nothing here worth stopping 
for. There are mines of zinc and coal 
in the neighbourhood, and much cheese 
is made in the district. 

The railway on leaving Dolhain 
quits the valley of the Vesdre. 

The first Prussian station is 

7 Herbesthal Stat., where passports 
are called for and taken away, and, if 
not vised and returned at once, they 
must be reclaimed at the Bureau des 
Passeports, at the Aix-la-Chapelle sta- 
tion ; the baggage is examined at Aix 
or Cologne. The railroad is carried on 
a bridge of 17 arches, 120 ft. high in 
the centre, over the Valley of the 
Greule; passes through 2 tunnels, the 
second of which is 2220 ft. long, pierced 
through a sand-hill, and finally reaches 



Aix-la-Chapelle down an inclined plane, 
up which carriages are drawn by a 
stationary engine in coming from Aix. 

15 Aix-la-Chapelle Terminus. — 
Close to (rt.) Borcette— (Rte. 36.) 

ROUTE 26. 

MECHLIN OR BRUSSELS TO LIEGE, BY 
LOUVAIN. — RAILWAY. 

Brussels to Liege 114 kilom. = 71£ 
m. The journey to Liege requires 4 h. 

In order to reach Louvain from 
Brussels by railway it is necessary to 
go round by Mechlin. Brussels to 
Mechlin 20 kilom. = 12^ m. See Ete. 
23. Mechlin to Liege 94 kilom. = 
58f m. 

Stations from Mechlin to Louvain. 

11 Haecht Stat. 

2 Wespelaer Stat. Near this is a 
park and pleasure ground, laid out by 
a brewer's widow of Louvain, in the 
French style, which is the delight of 
the cockneys of Brussels. The railway 
crosses the Dyle, and runs not far 
from the Antwerp canal, which is lined 
with a treble row of trees, before reach- 
ing 

11 The Louvain stat., p. 183. 



There are 2 post-roads from Brussels 
to Louvain, both the same length, viz. 
3| posts, = 15f m. : a. By Cortenberg, 
passing the village of St. Josse te noode 
(St. Joseph in need), a saint invoked by 
ladies who wish to have a family ; near 
which is the old castle of the Dukes of 
Ursel, once a residence of the Cardinal 
Granvilla, now a farm-house; and a 
little inn or guinguette called het 
Schapraatje, from which there is a fine 
view of Brussels. About 6 m. from 
Brussels the spire of the village church 
of Saventhem is seen on the 1. of the 
road, from which it is a mile distant. 
An admirable painting by Vandyck, to 
which the following story is attached, 
was restored to the church from the 
Louvre in 1817. — Vandyck, having 
made great progress under his master, 
Rubens, was advised by him to go to 
Italy, and partly furnished by him with 
means to complete his studies there. 
He set out with the best intentions of 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 26.— LOUVAIN. HOTEL DE VILLE. 



183 



devoting himself entirely to his art, on a 
white horse given him by Rubens ; but 
had proceeded only thus far on his 
journey when he unlueikly fell in love 
with a young girl of Saventhem, and 
there foolishly lost his time and money 
in pursuit of his passion. To show his 
devotion to her, and to comply with her 
request, he painted 2 pictures for the 
parish church — one, a Holy Family, in 
which he introduced portraits of his 
mistress and her parents ; the other, in 
which he has represented himself as St. 
Martin, riding on the white horse given 
him by Rubens. Tidings of the truant 
at length reached the ears of his master, 
who sought him out, represented to him 
the folly of sacrificing his future pros- 
pects of fame and success to an obscure 
amour, and with some difficulty per- 
suaded him to tear himself away. The 
villagers have twice risen up to prevent 
the removal of these cherished works of 
art ; first by a Dutch picture-dealer to 
whom they had been clandestinely sold 
by the priest, and again by the French : 
they are both still preserved to the 
church. 

If Cortenberg. 

1\ Louvain. 

Rte. b. — The other roadpasses through , 

1 i Tervueren (Inns : Le Renard and 
L' Empereur) . Post-horses are no longer 
kept here, the railroad having rendered 
them unnecessary. Here there is a 
summer Palace of the late King of Hol- 
land. It was the gift of the nation to 
him when Prince of Orange, in gratitude 
for the bravery which he had displayed 
in the battle of Waterloo. Its extent 
is not great, and there are no paintings 
of note in it, but it is very elegantly 
fitted up, with gardens in the Italian 
style around it. The Church contains 
some tombs of the Dukes of Brabant. 



Outside the walls of Louvain took 
place the memorable engagement of 
August, 1831, between the Dutch and 
the Belgians, in which the latter, com- 
manded by Leopold in person, ran away 
and abandoned their king, who narrowly 
escaped falling into the hands of the 
Prince of Orange. 

Louvain Stat, is outside the town — 
omnibuses and vigilantes. (§ 22 A.) 



The H. de Ville is only \ h. walk from 
it through the Rue de Diest. 

If Louvain. (Flem. Lovex ; Germ. 
Lowen). — 'Inns : H. de Suede, Place du 
Peuple, near to the stat. ; good and 
moderate : dinner in private, 3 fr., and 
other charges in proportion. Cour de 
Mons. Sauvage, near the town-hall. 
Louvain,on the Dyle, with 24,000 inhab., 
is a city of very ancient origin. Some 
have attributed its foundation to Julius 
Caesar ; and the old Castle, of which a 
small fragment remains outside the 
Mechlin gate, still goes by the name of 
Chateau de Cesar, though it did not ex- 
ist till 890, when the Empr. Arnold 
caused it to be built as a barrier against 
the invasion of the Normans. A high 
earthen rampart encloses the town on 
one side, and is cut through by the 
roads to Brussels and Mechlin. It has 
a deep dry fosse on the outside, and is 
from 80 to 100 ft. high. The ruined 
bastions and casemates are probably the 
works of the Spaniards. The ground- 
plan of Louvain is nearly circular. 

It is recorded that Edward III. of 
England lived for one year in the castle, 
and that the Empr. Charles V. was 
brought up in it. The citizens used to 
assert that their town had never been 
taken, though often besieged. General 
Klcber, however, at the head of the re- 
volutionary forces of France, put an 
end to the boast, by making himself 
master of the place in 1792. 

The Hdtel de Ville is one of the rich- 
est and most beautiful Gothic buildings 
in the world. Evciy part of the ex- 
terior is elaborately decorated by the 
chisel. It was begun 1448, and finished 
1469, " probably by M. de Layens, 
master mason of Louvain," and has re- 
cently been repaired at the joint ex- 
pense of the town and government. 
The delicate and rich masonry of the 
exterior, which had suffered from time 
and the weather, has been renovated 
entirely. The decayed stones were re- 
moved one by one and replaced by 
others, carefully copied and restored by 
the sculptor Goycrs in a style consistent 
with the original design, and at least 
equal to the ancient workmanship. The 
subjects of the sculptured groups are, 
for the most part, taken from the Old 






184 



ROUTE 26. — LOUVAItf. CATHEDRAL. UNIVERSITY. Sect. II. 



Testament. The common council has 
decided that statues (in number about 
250) shall be placed in the niches of the 
3 facades and the towers. ' The niches 
on the ground floor will be reserved for 
celebrated persons born at Louvain, or 
who have been domiciled there, and 
likewise for persons who have rendered 
eminent services to the town. On the 
1st story will be placed figures emble- 
matical of the ancient institutions of the 
commune ; the Counts of Louvain, the 
Dukes of Brabant, and the sovereigns 
of the kingdom are to fill the niches of 
the upper story. All these statues will 
be the size of life, and are to be exe- 
cuted in a style in harmony with that 
of the building. 

The pictures within the Town Hall 
are generally of little consequence. A 
few are curious from their antiquity. 

The Cathedral of St. Peter, near to 
the Town Hall, is also well worth see- 
ing. It was founded in 1040 ; but hav- 
ing been twice destroyed by fire, the 
existing building is not older than 1358. 
" What is stated to be an original draw- 
ing of the W. front is preserved in the 
Town Hall, together with a very ela- 
borate model of the same in stone as it 
was executed, with a singularly lofty 
tower and spire in the centre, and an- 
other on either side of it. The centre 
spire, which was to have been above 
500 ft. high (an extraordinary eleva- 
tion, .exceeding, by 100 ft., that of 
Salisbury Cathedral), was, it is said, 
destroyed in 1606 by a storm, and in its 
fall ruined the side towers." — G. God- 
win. But there are doubts whether the 
tower, as here planned, was ever exe- 
cuted. A highly ornamented Rood- 
loft, between the choir and nave, is in 
the richest flamboyant Gothic of the 
latter part of the 15th cent. Under 
the arch which separates the choir from 
its side aisle, on the N. side of the 
grand altar, is an elaborate Tabernacle 
of sculptured stone to contain the host. 
It is a hexagon in plan, tapering up- 
wards to a point, and is about 30 ft. 
high. Here are, among several name- 
less pictures of the old Flemish school, 
2 altar-pieces by Hemling — the Martyr- 
dom of St. Erasmus, a horrible subject, 
but treated with great propriety by the 



painter, and the Last Supper, a work of 
high merit. A Holy Family, by Quen- 
tin Matsys, in a side chapel at the back 
of the high altar, is considered the great 
ornament of the church. It was carried 
to Paris during the Revolution. On 
the shutters are painted the Death of 
St. Anne, a beautiful composition, and 
the Expulsion of Joachim from the 
Temple. Another picture (artist un- 
known) represents a cook with his apron 
on, chosen bishop in consequence of 
the miraculous descent of a dove upon 
his head. In the foreground he ap- 
pears to refuse the mitre, but behind 
preparations are making for his installa- 
tion. Sir Joshua Reynolds says of it — 
" It is a composition of near a hundred 
figures, many in good attitudes, natural 
and well invented. It is much more 
interesting to look at the works of these 
old masters than slight commonplace 
pictures of many modern painters." The 
Pulpit of wood is an admirable speci- 
men of carving, representing St. Peter 
on a rock and the Conversion of St. 
Paul, surmounted by palm-trees. The 
stricken horse and fallen rider are ex- 
quisitely executed. The form and ex- 
pression of both are perfect. The carved 
woodwork of the main portals in the 
inside is remarkable as a work of art. 
" The font, situated at the "W. end of 
the nave, has an elaborate Gothic crane 
of iron attached to the wall near it, for 
the purpose of supporting the cover, 
now removed. One of the chapels in 
the N. aisle of the nave has a low screen 
of coloured marbles, exquisitely sculp- 
tured in the style of Louis XIV."— G. G. 
The chapels containing the pictures by 
Hemling and Matsys are locked ; to see 
them, apply to the custode. 

The University, suppressed by the 
French, was re-established by the King 
of Holland in 1817. Since 1836 it has 
once more become the nursing mother 
of Romish priests for Belgium. There 
are about 600 students. In the 16th 
cent, it was considered the first uni- 
versity in Europe, and, being especially 
distinguished as a school of Roman 
Catholic theology, it was then frequented 
by 6000 students. There were formerly 
43 colleges, variously endowed by pious 
founders, dependent upon the "Cniver- 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 26. — LOUVAIN. TIRLEMONT. 



185 



sity : of these only about 20 now re- 
main, and their funds have been much 
reduced. The Colleges du Pape, des 
Philosophcs, du St. Esprit, du Faucon, 
&c, are sumptuous edifices. 

The Guildhall ', or Halle, of the weav- 
ers, erected in 1317, was appropriated 
to the service of the University, after its 
first owners were banished for their re- 
fractory conduct. It still exhibits traces 
of the opulence of its founders, being 
decorated with carvings in wood, but is 
scarcely worth entering if the traveller 
be pressed for time. Far more inter- 
esting is 

The Cabinet of Paintings, belonging 
to M. Vandenschrieck, Rue de Paris, 
No. 86, one of the most select now 
in the Netherlands as regards native 
masters. It contains good specimens 
of Cuyp, Vandyck, v. der Hcyden, the 
Ostades, Rembrandt, Rubens, Ruys- 
dael, Teniers, the Van de Veldes, "Wou- 
vermans, and of other leaders of the 
Dutch and Flemish schools; besides 
some good works by modem artists. 

The carved wooden stalls in St. Ger- 
trude's Church, which was originally the 
chapel of the Dukes of Brabant, are re- 
puted the finest in Belgium ; they are 
of oak, in flamboyant style, with de- 
tached groups and statues, and beauti- 
ful bas-reliefs. They have been re- 
stored by Goyers. The modern paint- 
ings by the Belgian artists "Wappers, 
Matthieu, and de Keyscr, in St. Mi- 
chael's, also deserve mention. 

The Tower of Jansenius, in which 
that celebrated theological writer com- 
posed the works which gave rise to 
those doctrines of grace and free-will, 
named after their author Jansenism, 
exists no longer. 

Louvain may easily be seen in a day ; 
and there is no inducement to remain 
longer, as the city has a deserted aspect, 
the more striking when contrasted with 
its ancient prosperity and swarming 
population. Its walls, now in part 
turned into boulevards, measured 7 m. 
in circumference ; and in the 14th cent., 
when it was the capital of Brabant 
and residence of its princes, its inhab. 
amounted to 100,000. Nearly half of 
them lived by the woollen manufac- 
tures established here. The weavers 



here, however, as elsewhere, were a 
turbulent race ; and their rulers, being 
tyrannical and impolitic, banished, in 
1382, a large number of them from the 
town, in consequence of a tumult in 
which they had taken part, and during 
which they had thrown 17 of the ma- 
gistrates out of the windows of the 
Town-house. Many of the exiles took 
refuge in England, bringing with them 
their industry and independence ; and, 
very much to the advantage of our 
country, established in it those woollen 
manufactures which have left all others 
in the world far behind. 

Louvain is famed at present for 
brewing the best Beer in all Belgium. 
200,000 casks are made here annually : 
a great deal is exported. It may be 
tasted at the Maison des Brasseurs, the 
Brewers' Guild, a fine mansion, in the 
Elizabethan style, opposite the H. de 
Ville. 

The Railroad from Louvain leaves 
on the rt. the Abbey of Pare, still 
inhabited by monks, and furnished with 
3 fish-ponds. 

11 Vertryk Stat. 

7 Tirlemont Stat. (Flem. Thienen.) 
— Inn : Le Plat d'Etain ; tolerable. A 
town of 8500 inhab. : formerly much 
more considerable. The space included 
within its walls 8. of the railway in- 
cludes, at present, very few houses : 
the gates are old. In the centre of it 
is a very extensive square. The Ch. of 
St. Germain, on a height visible from 
the railway, is one of the oldest in Bel- 
gium, built in the 9th cent. It con- 
tains an altar-piece by Wappers. The 
massive tower is of the 1 2th cent. The 
Jesuit J. Bollandus, author of the Acta 
Sanctorum, was born here. Outside 
the gate leading to Maestricht are 3 
large barrows, supposed to be the graves 
of some barbarian people in very re- 
mote times. They are visible from the 
railway, — to the 1. 

The railroad, after leaving the 
station, overlooks the town from an 
embankment. 

rt. The Lion on the Field of Water- 
loo, and the Prussian Monument, are 
visible at a great distance. 

6 Esemael Stat. 

On approaching Landen the rail- 



186 



ROUTE 27. BRUSSELS TO AIX, BY MAESTRICHT. Sect. II. 



way traverses the plain, of Neerwinden, 
celebrated for 2 great battles : in 1693, 
when the English under William III. 
were beaten by Marshal Luxemburg 
and the French ; and in 1793, when the 
Austrians defeated the Revolutionary 
army, and drove it out of Belgium. 

[I. Leau, between Tirlemont and St. 
Trond, 5 m. to the N. of the railroad, 
was in the middle ages a fortified 
town, and part of the wall still remains. 
The Church of St. Leonard contains 
several Gothic altars, a luminaire (can- 
dlestick) of brass, 15 ft. high, orna- 
mented with figures of Saints, and a 
Tabernacle, sculptured in the style of 
the Renaissance (Elizabethan), erected 
at the cost of the Seigneur Martin van 
Wilre, 1558. He is buried in the tomb 
opposite it.] 

7 Landen Stat. A branch railway 
runs hence to St. Trond and Hasselt, 
27 kilom. == 16£m. 

3 Gingelom Stat, 

5 Rosoux Stat. 

6 Waremme Stat. (8 m. from Ton- 
gres, Rte. 27.) Waremme was capital 
of the district called Hesbaie, lying on 
the 1. of the Meuse. The old Roman 
road from Bavay to Tongres is crossed ; 
it is in good preservation, and is called 
by the people of the country the road 
of Brunehaut (Brunehilde). 

11 Eexhe Stat. 

8 Ans Stat, is 450 ft. above the 
level of the Meuse, and the trains de- 
scend by 2 inclined planes, about 2^ 
m. long, in 15 min., being drawn up by 
ropes attached to stationary engines, in 
12 min. The view, looking down upon 
Liege, is most striking. 

6 Liege Terminus is on the 1. bank 
of the Meuse, close to the Quai d' Avroy. 
The railway crosses the Meuse by the 
bridge of Val St. Benoit, of 7 arches. 
(Rte. 24.) 

ROUTE 27. 

BRUSSELS TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE, BY 
LOUVAIN AND MAESTRICHT. 

As far as Landen the road is de- 
scribed in Rte. 26. 

Landen to St. Trond railway, 10 
kilom. = 6£m. 

5 Velm Stat. 

5 St. Trond Stat. (Inns : L'Europe ; 



Le Sauvage, tolerable), a town of 
9100 inhab., receiving its name from 
St. Trudon, who founded a monastery 
here, and gained great fame by the 
working of miracles. At Brustem, 
near this, a great battle was fought, 
in 1467, between Charles the Bold 
and his rebellious subjects of Liege. 
3000 of them, who had posted them- 
selves in the town, were compelled to 
surrender it to Charles, to destroy the 
gates and ramparts, and to deliver up 
to him 10 of their number, whom he 
cruelly caused to be beheaded. 

This railway is carried on to Hasselt, 
17 kilom. = lOg m. 
7 Cortenbosch Stat. 
5 Aiken Stat. 
5 Hasselt Stat., 64 m. from Brussels. 



St. Trond to Aix-la-Chapelle, 5 posts 
and 4J Germ. m. = about 44 Eng. m. 

2^ Tongres (Inn : Paon), a very an- 
cient city of 6000 inhab. The prin- 
cipal Church was the first dedicated to 
the Virgin on this side of the Alps. 
The existing Gothic edifice dates from 
1240, but the convent behind was built 
in the 10th or 11th cent., and is the 
oldest of the kind in the country. The 
Waremme Station on the railway is 8 
m. from this. (Rte. 26.) 

Near the town, on the estate of 
Betho, there exists a mineral spring, 
mentioned by Pliny in these words : — 
" Tungri, civitas Gallia?, fontem habet 
insignem, pluribus bullis stillantem, 
ferruginei saporis quod ipsum non 
nisi in fine potus intelligitur. Purgat 
hie corpora, tertianas febres discutit, 
caleulorumque vitia. Eadem aqua, igne 
admoto, turbida fit, ac postea rubescit." 
It still retains its ancient properties, 
answering exactly to the description, 
and is known as the fontaine de Pline or 
de St. Gilles. The Tungri, according to 
Tacitus, were the first German tribe who, 
crossing the Rhine, expelled the Gauls, 
and settled themselves in their country. 

Beyond Tongres the road is bad. 

2 J Maestricht. — Inns : Levrier 
(Greyhound') ; most comfortable. H. 
du Casque (Helmet) ; good. Hof von 
Holland. 

Maestricht, the capital of the Dutch 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 27. — MAESTRICHT. QUARRIES. 



187 



portion of the province of Limburg, 
has 22,000 inhab. It lies on the Maas, 
and is united by a bridge of 9 arches to 
the suburb called Wyck. It is one of 
the strongest fortresses in Europe ; its 
works are very extensive, and partly 
lindermined, with capabilities for lay- 
ing under water great part of the land 
around, by opening the sluices. To- 
gether with Venloo and Roermonde, it 
still belongs to the King of Holland, 
having been ceded to him by Jthe treaty 
of 1831 : it is numerously garrisoned 
by Dutch troops. It was called by the 
Romans Trajectum superius (the upper 
ford), or Trajectum ad Mosam. 

The great strength of this town has 
subjected its inhabitants to the misery 
of numerous sieges. Among the most 
memorable was that of 1579, when the 
Spaniards, under the Duke of Parma, 
took it by assault, at the end of 4 
months, after having been repulsed in 
9 separate attacks by the garrison, 
which included a few English and 
Scotch soldiers : they were all put to 
the sword, and nearly 8000 of the 
townspeople massacred to satisfy Spa- 
nish vengeance. It was taken by Louis 
XIV. ; but William III. of England 
failed before it. Maestricht was pre- 
served to Holland by its brave garrison 
Sept. 1830, and was the only place 
which resisted effectually the insurgent 
Belgians. There is an arsenal and a 
military magazine in the town. 

The Stadhuis, in the centre of the 
great market-place, is handsome, in 
a modern style of architecture (date 
1662). The Ch. of St. Servais is a fine 
Romanesque edifice, ornamented with 
5 towers, and dating probably from the 
10th cent. It has a splendid portal, 
with statues of kings (10th or 11th 
cent.), a cloister of the 15th cent., and 
it contains a Descent from the Cross by 
Vandyk (?). The Ch. of Notre Dame 
rises from Roman substructions. The 
square called Vrijhof, in which St. 
Servais stands, was the place where 
"William de la Marck, nicknamed "le 
Sanglier des Ardennes," was beheaded, 
1485. Some pretty Public Gardens were 
laid out in 1838. 

The most remarkable thing about 
Maestricht are the Subterranean Quar- 



ries under the hill called the Pietersberg, 
on which the Citadel or Fort St. Pierre 
stands. The entrance is not quite 3 m. 
from the Inns, outside St. Peter's gate : 
the hire of a carriage is 6 fr. ; the fee 
of a sworn guide 4 fr. Some of the 
passages are wide enough to admit 
horses and carts. They cover a space 
of 4 leagues by 2 : the number of pas- 
sages amounts to 16,000, 20 to 50 ft. 
high and 12 broad, and a large part are 
now rarely explored. They are sup- 
posed to have been first worked by the 
Romans. The galleries, running gene- 
rally at right angles, and lined by many 
thousand massive pillars, 40 ft. square, 
left by the excavators to supportthe roof, 
cross and intersect each other so as to 
render it exceedingly difficult to find 
the way out ; and it is dangerous to 
enter this singular labyrinth without a 
guide. Many lives have been lost from 
the want of this precaution; among 
others, 4 Recollet monks perished in 
1640, in attempting to penetrate to a 
remote spot, where they were desirous 
of forming a hermitage. They had 
provided themselves with a clue, which 
they fastened near the entrance, but the 
thread on which they depended broke. 
They died of hunger, and their bodies, 
though they were diligently sought for, 
were not found till 7 days after. The 
only persons competent to conduct 
strangers through the maze are a few 
experienced labourers who have spent 
a large portion of their lives in these 
caverns, and who assist their memory 
by marks made on the pillars and sides. 
In time of war the peasantry of the 
surrounding country have frequently 
sought refuge in the caves, along with 
their flocks and herds. The rock is a 
soft yellowish stone, not unlike chalk, 
and of the same geological age. It is 
used for building, but is ill adapted for 
the purpose, being much affected by 
the atmosphere ; it does not make good 
lime, but when reduced to sand is very 
serviceable as manure for the fields. It 
abounds in marine fossil remains. Be- 
sides shells and crabs, large turtles are 
found in it, together with the bones of 
a gigantic lizard-like reptile, more than 
20 ft. long, called the fossil Monitor. 
Some of these relics of animals which 



188 



ROUTE 28. — BRUSSELS TO NAMUR. 



Sect. II. 



do not now exist on the earth may be 
seen at Maestricht. The caverns are 
very cold, but are remarkably free from 
all moisture, and hence their tempe- 
rature scarcely ever varies. In one of 
them are a number of grotesque figures 
drawn with charcoal on the surface of 
the rock, and meant to represent the 
Last Judgment, The walk through 
the caverns need not take up more 
than an hour. The view from the 
summit of the Pietersberg is fine. 

Steamers daily to Liege, in 4 hrs., 
returning in 2£ hrs. (R. 24) : — to 
Rotterdam, stopping for the night at 
Venloo. 

A Schnellpost daily, in 3£ hrs., to Aix- 
la-Chapelle. 

A stone bridge across the Meuse 
leads from Maestricht to the suburb of 
"Wyck. The road then passes several 
inconsiderable places to 

2£ Wittem, the frontier of Prussia, 
about a mile beyond BochoLz (§46,47). 

2 Atx-la-Chapelle (Rte. 36). 

ROUTE 28. 

BRUSSELS TO NAMUR BY CHARLEROI. — 
RAILWAY. 

109 kilom. = 68$ Eng. m. Time 4 h. 
In Rte. 32 this railway is described as 
far as 

30 Braine le Comte Stat. Here the 
line to Namur branches off E. from 
that to Mons (R. 32), and travellers 
going to Namur change carriages. 

6 Ecaussines Stat. Here are very 
fine blue limestone quarries. 

9 Manage Stat. A branch railway 
connects this station with Mons, in a 
direct line. (See Rte. 32.) The canal is 
crossed. There are coal-mines near this. 

On the 1. lies Seneffe, where the 
Prince of Orange ("William III.), scarce 
24, ventured to measure his strength 
(1674) with the veteran Conde. It 
ended in a drawn battle, with 27,000 
dead left on the field ! 

7 Gouy-lez-Pieton Stat. 

3 Pont-a-Celles Stat. 
2 Luttre Stat. 

5 Gosseries Stat., a picturesque town 
(1.) on a height. 

The railway cuts through several 
beds of coal. 



3 Roux Stat. Coalpits and tramways. 
The most interesting portion of the 
route lies between 

3 Marchiennes-au-Pont (Stat.) and 
Charleroi; the country being pictu- 
resque, and enlivened by manufactories, 
chimneys, iron-works, coal-mines, and 
villages. 

The Brussels and Charleroi canal 
suns parallel with the railway, and 
enters the Sambre, which it joins to the 
Schelde, % m. above Charleroi. 

The railway crosses the Sambre 16 
times before reaching Namur. 

4 Charleroi Stat. Inns: Pays- 
Bas; small, but good; — Grand Mo- 
narque ; — 1' "drivers . Charleroi is a 
fortress on the Sambre, originally 
founded by Charles II. of Spain, and 
named after him ; its works were razed 
1795, and restored 1816, under the di- 
rection of the Duke of "Wellington. It 
is also a manufacturing town, and has 
6150 inhab. About 6000 nail-makers 
ply their trade in and about the town, 
and there are said to be 70 high fur- 
naces, 50 iron foundries, ' and 90 coal- 
pits in the vicinity. There are exten- 
sive iron furnaces at Couriers, near this. 
The surrounding district abounds in 
coal; 8345 miners and 118 steam-en- 
gines are employed in the collieries. 
The Sambre and Meuse Railway branches 
S. from Charleroi. (Rte. 28 a.) 

, From Charleroi 
7 Chaterineau Stat. 

Ironworks. 
3 Farciennes Stat. 

5 Tamines Stat. 
2 Auvelais Stat. 



6 Moustier Stat. 

5 Floreffe Stat. 
inhab., stands 



to Namur the 
railway descends 
the beautiful val- 
ley of the Sam- 
bre, through a 
very picturesque 
1 country. 
The village, of 1500 
on the rt. bank of the 
Sambre. On a commanding height 
above rises the picturesque Abbey of 
Floreffe, founded by Godfrey Count of 
Namur, 1121. It is now a seminary 
for priests. The cloisters and hall of 
the Counts of Namur are worth notice. 
On the 1., in a woody gorge, lies the 
Abbey of Malonne, and further on the 
1. the new ch. of Beausse. 

9 Namur Stat, outside the Porte de 
Fer, which leads to Louvain (Rte. 24). 



Belgium, route 29. — namuk to Luxemburg and Treves. 



189 



ROUTE 28 a. 

CHARLEROI TO MORIALME — SAMBRE 
AND MEUSE RAILWAY. 

This railway turns off from the Brus- 
sels and Namur Railway between Char- 
leroi and Marchiennes-au-Pont. It 
passes through the richest mineral dis- 
trict in Belgium, and has a great traffic 
in cole, coke, iron, and zinc ore. When 
completed it will connect the valley of 
the Sambre at Charleroi with that of 
the Meuse a few miles above Givet, 
and also at Charleville and Mezieres. 
From Charleroi to Morialme (34| kilom. 
= 21f Eng. m.), with a branch to 
Laneffe, was opened 1848. 

2| La Sambre Stat. (Marchiennes.) 

1~ Bomeree Stat. 

13f Hameau Stat. 

18£ Berzee Stat. (Here a branch 
railway turns off by 2 Thy-le-Chateau 
Stat, to 4j Laneffe Stat.) 

21| Walcourt Stat. 

29§ Fraire Stat., on the high road 
between Charleroi and Philippeville. A 
diligence runs twice a day between this 
station and Philippeville, in connection 
with the trains. 

34f Morialme Sta. 

ROUTE 29. 

NAMUR TO LUXEMBURG AND TREVES. 

23| posts and 2 Prussian m. = 121| 
Eng. m. Diligence daily, in 20 hrs. 

An excellent road, completed by the 
Dutch only 2 years before the Revolu- 
tion of 1830. 

If Vivier l'Agneau. 

If Emptinnes. 

2 5 La Marche. — Inn, Cloche d'Or; 
intolerable. A pretty town, capital of 
the Famenne, a fertile corn district, 
named after its ancient inhab. the Phoe- 
manni, mentioned by Caesar; 8 m. 
S. W. is Rochefort (p. 193), once a 
strong fortress, where Lafayette was 
made prisoner by the Austrians, 1792. 

[ (rt.) The road from Marche to St. 
Hubert presents very fine forest scenery. 
—See Rte. 31.] 

The first stage out of La Marche, 
passing through the forest of St. Hu- 
bert, is very pretty indeed. This is 
Shakspeare's "Forest of Arden;" and 



so well does the reality agree with his 
description of its woodland scenery, that 
the traveller might almost expect to 
meet the " banished duke " holding his 
sylvan court under the greenwood tree, 
or to surprise the pensive Jaques me- 
ditating by the side of the running 
brook. 

2§- Champion, a solitary post-house. 
A few miles beyond Champion the in- 
fant Ourthe is crossed. 

3 Bastogne has no regular .inn. 
There is a curious old church here. 
2058 inhab. There is a road hence to 
St. Hubert (p. 193), through Orten- 
ville, where is a comfortable auberge ; 
and another to Liege through Houffa- 
lize (Haut Falaise) on the edge of steep 
cliffs overhanging the Ourthe, sur- 
mounted by a ruined castle destroyed 
by Marshal Boufflers. {Inn : H. des 
Ardennes.) 

2f Martelange. 

2^ Arlon {Inn: H. du Nord; clean 
and comfortable sleeping quarters) — a 
rapidly increasing town, of 5000 inhab. : 
supposed to be the Roman Orolanum. 
By the partition of the Duchy of Lux- 
emburg, in conformity with the Treaty 
of 1831, two-thirds of it have fallen 
to the share of King Leopold, and Ar- 
lon is become the capital of the Belgian 
part of the province. 

A Diligence from Arlon down the 
picturesque valley of the Semoi to Flo- 
renville. {Inn : H. du Commerce.) 
Diligence to Metz daily. {Handbook for 
France.) 

The Dutch frontier commences at 
Steinfurth. From Arlon to the fron- 
tier German is the language of the in- 
habitants. 

3| Luxemburg. — Inn : H. de Co- 
logne the best, but not clean. The 
situation of Luxemburg is very singu- 
lar ; and the extent and extraordinary 
character of its fortifications combine to 
make it highly picturesque. The tra- 
veller from the side of Brussels comes 
upon it unawares, so completely is it 
wedged in between high escarped rocks. 
The upper town occupies a table-land 
joined to the neighbouring country only 
on the W. On the other 3 sides it 
descends in a precipice 200 ft. deep. 
Similar lofty and precipitous rocks rise 



190 



ROUTE 29. — LUXEMBURG. ROUTE 30. — THE MEUSE. Sect. II. 



opposite to these, enclosing a deep val- 
ley watered by the stream of Peters - 
burn and Alzette, in whose depths the 
industrious lower town (with mills and 
dye-works) nestles ; it is divided into 2 
quarters by a jutting rock, le Bouc. 
The vale of the Alzette forms, as it 
were, a natural fosse, crossed in various 
directions by picturesque fortifications. 
On entering from the German side it is 
difficult to comprehend how these are to 
be surmounted, or the drawbridges 
reached, which appear to hang sus- 
pended in the air. The communication 
between the upper and lower towns is 
by nights of steps, and by streets carried 
up in zigzags, so as to be passable for a 
carriage. The defences, partly exca- 
vated in the solid rock, have been in- 
creased and improved by the successive 
possessors of Luxemburg, by the Spa- 
niards (1697), Austrians (1713), French 
(1684 and 1795), and Dutch, rendering 
it, in the words of Carnot, " la plus 
forte place de 1' Europe apres Gibraltar : 
— le seul point d'appui pourattaquer la 
France du cote de la Moselle." It is 
now one of the fortresses of the Ger- 
man Confederation, and is garrisoned 
by 6000 Prussians. Under the direc- 
tion of the German Diet, it has been 
entirely repaired and greatly strength- 
ened since 1830, and a new fort has 
been built outside the gate to Treves. 
The most remarkable part of the forti- 
fications is that called Le Bouc, a pro- 
jecting headland of rock, hollowed out 
from top to bottom, and commanding 
with its loopholes and embrasures, ob- 
servable in every part, the valley up 
and down ; its casemates, entirely ex- 
cavated in the solid rock, are capable of 
holding 4000 men, and resemble those 
of Gibraltar. The commandant will 
sometimes give strangers admission. 

The Grand Duchy, of which Luxem- 
burg is the chief town, was given to the 
King of Holland, at the Treaty of Vi- 
enna (1815), in consideration of his 
abandoning his claim upon Nassau. 
The House of Luxemburg is highly 
distinguished in history ; it gave 5 em- 
perors to Germany, kings to Bohemia, 
Poland, and Hungary, several queens 
to France, and numerous exalted pre- 
lates to the church. John the Blind, 



King of Bohemia, killed by the English 
at the battle of Cressy, from whom our 
Prince of Wales gains his motto (Ich 
dien), was buried here ; but his body 
was removed at the Bevolution to Mett- 
lach, in Prussia. Luxemburg contains 
12,000 inhab. 

In the lower town is a Gateway, sole 
relic of the palace of the Spanish Stadt- 
holder, Count Peter Ernest of Mansfeldt 
(1 545-1 604) . A walk through the val- 
ley will well repay the traveller. 

Diligences daily to Remich and Metz, 
and to Treves in 6 hrs. The post- 
master at Luxemburg charges 35 sous 
for each horse per post, and has the 
right of attaching a third horse; the 
first stage is hilly ; the road good. 

Meder-Anweiler. 

3§ Grevenmachern. The road here 
reaches the Moselle ; it proceeds along 
its 1. bank through charming scenery 
to Treves. 

Wasserbillig. The Prussian frontier 
is crossed at the bridge over the Sure, 
close to which is the custom-house. 

(§ 47.) 

6 m. above Treves the road passes 
the very remarkable Roman monument 
of Igel, described in Ete. 41. The 
village stands opposite to the junction 
of the Saar (Savarus) with the Moselle. 
Conz, a village' near its mouth, derives 
its name from the Emperor Constantine, 
who had a summer palace here, traces 
of which still exist in the foundations of 
brick walls, towers, &c. The Roman 
bridge over the Saar was blown up by 
the French, 1675. 

2 Treves (Rte. 41). 

ROUTE 30. 

THE MEUSE. 
NAMUR TO DIN ANT AND GIVET. 

5f posts === 2 7| English m. Diligences 
daily ; a good post-road. Steamers twice 
a day in summer, from Dinant to Na- 
mur, in 2^ hrs., returning in 4 hrs. 
Diligence daily to Givet. 

The Meuse above Namur is not less 
interesting, though less visited, than 
below it. For a considerable distance 
the river is hemmed in by magnificent 
escarpments of limestone, resembling in 
height and form the banks of the Avon 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 30. — THE MEUSE. DINANT. 



191 



at Clifton, and the vales of Derbyshire. 
The cultivation of the graceful hop 
here supplants that of the vine. The 
road ascends the 1. bank as far as Di- 
nant, where it crosses the river by a 
stone bridge. About 4 m. below Dinant, 
at Yvoir, on the rt. bank, is an inter- 
mittent spring rising and sinking regu- 
larly every 7 min. Several villas and 
pretty chateaux are passed. 

(rt.) Between 2 and 3 m. below Di- 
nant rises the Castle of Poilvache, once 
" la terreur des Dinantois," now in 
ruins, of great extent, and finely situ- 
ated. It was taken and destroyed by 
Bp. Jean de Heynsberg, 1429. 

1. Upon the top of a rock, \ m. be- 
low Dinant, stands the ruined castle of 
Bouvignes. During the siege of this 
place by the French under the Due de 
Nevers (1554) 3 beautiful women re- 
tired with their husbands into the tower 
of Crevecoeur, hoping to assist and en- 
courage the garrison by their presence. 
The defence was obstinate, but at last 
all were slain but the 3 heroines, 
who, unwilling to submit to the bru- 
tality of the conquerors, threw them- 
selves from the top of the tower, in sight 
of the French, and were dashed to 
pieces on the rocks. 

rt. 2>\ Dinant {Inns : Post, best ; 
Tete d'Or), a town of 5650 inhab., ro- 
mantically situated at the base of lime- 
stone cliffs, to which the fortifications 
and the chapel on their summit add in- 
terest. " There are caverns in the con- 
torted convolutions of the limestone 
strata. Winding stairs, cut in the rock, 
render the summit of the cliffs above 
the town accessible to its inhabitants, 
but there is little or no view from the 
heights. Permission to enter the citadel 
is no longer given. The Church is dis- 
tinguished by a singular bulb-shaped 
steeple, its interior is interesting, and 
part of the building is very ancient. 
The door of the baptistery, and another 
which is blocked up, are of the 10th or 
11th cent."— T. 

The inhabitants of Bouvigne were 
rivals of those of Dinant in the manu- 
facture of copper kettles (called from 
the place dinanderies), and the animosity 
thus created led to bloody and long- 
continued feuds between them. In de- 



fiance of their neighbours, the men of 
Bouvigne built the castle of Crevecoeur, 
and those of Dinant, to annoy them in 
return, erected that of Montorgueil, 
which they were afterwards compelled 
to destroy. 

Philip the Good, irritated by some act 
of aggression, besieged Dinant with an 
army of 30,000 men. The inhabitants, 
when summoned to surrender, replied 
by hanging the messengers sent with 
the proposals. The Duke, enraged at this 
outrage, was preparing to take the town 
by assault, when it surrendered. He 
gave it up to pillage for 3 days, and 
then set fire to it ; and while the flames 
were still raging, ordered 800 of the 
inhabitants, bound, two and two, to be 
thrown into the Meuse. Though weak 
from illness, he was carried in a litter 
to a spot whence he could feast his eyes 
on the conflagration and horrible exe- 
cution ; and, not satisfied with this act 
of vengeance, he sent workmen to pull 
down the ruined walls remaining after 
the fire, that not a vestige of Dinant 
might survive. His son, Charles the 
Bold, who succeeded 3 years after, 
allowed the town to be rebuilt ; but it 
was again sacked, burnt, and demolished, 
in 1554, by the French under the Due 
de Nevers, — a misfortune occasioned 
principally by the insolence of the 
townspeople in replying to the summons 
to surrender by a message to the effect 
that, if the Duke and the King of France 
fell into their hands, they would roast 
their hearts and livers for breakfast. 

Excursions from Dinant may be 
made to the grotto of Hans sur Lesse, 
described in Ete. .31 — to the ruined 
Castle of Montaigle, beautifully situ- 
ated in a rocky valley (5 m.) — to the 
Chateau de "Walzius, upon the edge of a 
precipice above the Lesse — to Chaleux, 
a group of hovels, where some extra- 
ordinary rocks rise above the Lesse, 
projecting like spires, and one, LaChan- 
delle, like a pillar from the face of the 
rock. 

About % m. above Dinant the road 
goes through a kind of natural portal, 
formed by the abrupt termination of a 
long narrow ridge or wall of rock, pro- 
jecting from the precipitous cliffs on 
the 1., and on the rt. by a pointed and 



192 



ROUTE 31. THE ARDENNES, 



Sect. II. 



bold isolated mass of rock, called the 
Roche a Bayard. The cleft was widened 
by order of Louis XIV., to facilitate 
the passage of the road up the valley. 
Near this are quarries of black marble. 
Immediately above lies Anseremme, a 
pretty town -with overhanging cliffs. 
Here the Lesse falls into the Meuse ; 
its rocky valley is very picturesque and 
well deserves to be explored. The 
Lesse descends, 400 ft. from the Trou de 
Han, in a series of falls called Battes. 

The road to Givet begins to ascend. 

" The finest point on the route is 
about 3 m. above Dinant, at the Cha- 
teau of Freyr, a country seat belonging 
to the Duchesse de Beaufort, on the 1. 
bank of the river, at the base of cliffs 
and richly- wooded hills, which are fur- 
rowed by ravines. "Within the grounds 
is a natural grotto, abounding in stalac- 
tites, and singularly lighted by an 
aperture in the rock. Opposite to Freyr 
the cliffs of limestone rise directly from 
the Meuse, much subdivided and broken 
up, presenting striking forms and out- 
lines ; sometimes jutting out in ledges 
more or less connected with the mass 
of the cliff, at other times separated 
into isolated fragments ; and occasion- 
ally the upper part of the range projects 
beyond the perpendicular, so as com- 
pletely to overhang the .river. The 
banks present lofty cliffs and romantic 
scenery as far as Flamignoul. At Heer 
a quarry of red marble is passed. The 
view of Givet from the top of the hill, 
surmounted by the road in approaching 
it, is very picturesque ; the fortifica- 
tions and windings of the river appear 
to great advantage.'' — T. T. 

2| Givet. — Inns: Le Cygne ; le 
Mont d'Or; good beer. — Givet and 
Charlemont may be regarded as parts 
of one town, prettily situated on oppo- 
site banks of the Meuse, but connected 
by a bridge. They belong to France, 
lying just within the frontier : the po- 
pulation is 4000 : the fortifications 
were constructed by Yauban. The for- 
tress of Charlemont (on the 1. bank) 
is placed on a high and commanding 
rock of limestone, which is sometimes 
of so fine a texture as to be quarried for 
marble. (See Handbook for France.) 

The Castle of Bouillon may be visited 



from Givet, travelling over rough cross 
roads, by Beauraing, — the distance 
30 m. 

ROUTE 31. 

THE ARDENNES. — DINANT TO HANS SUR 
LESSE, ST. HUBERT, AND BOUILLON. 

The Ardennes present some interest- 
ing though not first-rate scenery, espe- 
cially in the forests about St. Hubert, 
between it and Bochefort and Marche, 
and along the banks of the Semoi. 

Bouillon, upon that river, is a very 
striking and romantic castle, and the 
course of the Semoi (little known to 
travellers) invites explorers. The course 
of the Lesse presents many striking 
rocky scenes, singularly contorted stra- 
tification. 

Castles (as Villars sur Lesse). 

" The characteristic feature of the 
Ardennes is wildness ; heathy and rocky 
bills, with dark rapid streams winding 
round them ; vast forests of oak stretch- 
ing over the plains and crowning the 
hills, peopled with deer, wild boars, and 
wolves ; villages at long intervals, 
dirty and poor; cottages thinly scat- 
tered among the valleys, and castles 
frowning from rocky heights, em- 
bosomed in woods." — C. One may live 
well on the fine mutton fed on the 
heathery hills, on wild boar and tame 
pig fed on acorns of the forest. Veni- 
son, hare, and other game are common 
fare. The rivers afford small trout and 
grayling, on which the angler may ex- 
ercise his skill, and crawfish : nowhere 
is richer milk or more delicious honey. 

A very good road, traversed thrice a 
week by a diligence, but not as yet pro- 
vided with post-horses, though horses 
may be obtained by writing on before- 
hand, has been formed from Dinant to 
Neufchateau, passing through the midst 
of the Ardennes forest, and within 5 or. 
6 m. of the Trou de Han. 

" The Inns are wretched, mere vil- 
lage cabarets ; the country, for the most 
part, open, wild, and uncultivated, 
with some good wood scenery. The 
line is carried through Celles, Ardenne, 
a villa (or hunting -seat) of King Leo- 
pold, situated on the slope of a charm- 
ing valley, the natural beauties of which 



Belgium. 



ROUTE 31. — TROU DE HAN. ST. HUBERT. 



193 



have been enhanced by the taste of its 
royal owners." — C. Beyond Almars, 
at Avenaye, travellers turn aside if 
they intend to visit the Trou de Han ; 
thence the vile cross-road touches Lom- 
pretz and Nicupont (Madame Randol- 
let's inn), about 16 m. from Dinant; 
the river Lesse abounds with trout and 
grayling between Sechery and Nieu- 
pont. Through Neufchateau the road 
reaches Arlon. 

The cavern called Trou de Han is 
about 20 m. (8 post leagues) S.E. from 
Dinant. The valley of the Lesse is 
stopped up by a rocky barrier stretching 
across it, but the river precipitates itself 
into the cavern at the foot of this rock, 
called le Gotiffre de Belvaux, and forces 
a passage through it. The cavern is 
accessible through the natural arch out 
of which the Lesse issues, in a boat kept 
by a man residing hard by, who serves as 
a guide, and provides torches . ' ' The cave 
is entered in a boat at the spot where the 
river issues from it. It is a wild scene 
as the boatman lights wisps of straw, 
and as each bums down flings the lighted 
end into the stream." — B. It consists 
of a series of chambers opening into one 
another — some high, others low, some 
shaped like a syphon upright or inverted ; 
in places it contains some fine stalac- 
tites. The first hall or chamber is 
lighted by the reflection cast from the 
surface of the water up to the roof. 
The effect is very brilliant at 8 or 9 
o'clock in the morning, when the sun is 
opposite to the entrance. "After you 
leave the boat there is a good deal of 
really tough scrambling to get through, 
and dirty work it is. You should bor- 
row one of the blouses of the country 
before you attempt it, as the chances 
are you emerge covered with mud." 
— B. It takes about 2 hrs. to explore 
the cave : there is a poor cabaret near 
it. 

From Nieupont the distance is about 
12 m., by a cross road, through ^Hans 
sur Lesse, to Rochefort (Inn, l'Etoile, 
a neat homely inn, and good cuisine ; 
charges for bed, dinner, and supper, 
only 3 fr.), on the Homme, surmounted 
by an old castle, commanding a fine 
view. The scenery of the valley of 
I Homme above this is very fine, es- 

[n. g.] 



pecially near Grupont, where the castle 
of Mirwart, one of the best preserved 
feudal strongholds in Belgium, which 
belonged once to the de la Marcks, is a 
striking object. Mirwart is about 6 m. 
from St. Hubert. 

A cross-road leads from Hans sur L., 
by "Wavrulle, Grupont, and Bure, a dis- 
tance of 12 or 15 m., to 

St. Hubert (Inn, H. des Pays-Bas), 
a miserable little town of 1842 inhab., 
occupying a clearance in the midst of 
the grand forest of St. Hubert, which 
has a circumference of 40 m. The Abbey 
Church is a fine Gothic edifice, inter- 
nally adorned with precious marbles, 
and contrasting strangely with the 
humble buildings about it. The W. 
front with the 2 towers are Italian. 
Its founder, St. Hubert, the patron of 
hunters and sportsmen, was originally 
a dissolute prince, who, among other 
profane acts, was guilty of that of 
hunting on Sundays. He even did not 
hold sacred the holy festival of Good 
Friday ; but, while engaged in his fa- 
vourite diversion on that day, a stag 
suddenly presented itself to him, bear- 
ing a cross growing between its horns. 
The apparition, which he believed to be 
miraculous, and to be sent from heaven, 
recalled him from his evil mode of life. 
Renouncing equally his vices and his 
pleasures, he passed the rest of his days 
in penance and prayer; and, devoting 
his fortune to the church, acquired such 
a degree of sanctity as to work miracles, 
not merely by his hands, but by his 
garments ; so that even a shred of his 
mantle possessed virtue enough to cure 
hydrophobia, if placed on the patient's 
head ! The body of St. Hubert was 
deposited in the abbey, 825, but is sup- 
posed to have been burnt in the confla- 
gration caused by the French Calvinists, 
who set fire to both church and monas- 
tery, 1568. A handsome shrine has 
lately been erected to the Saint. In 
ancient times the abbot of St. Hubert 
paid an annual tribute of 3 couple of 
hounds to the King of France, to be 
allowed to collect contributions for the 
monastery in his kingdom. 

There are cross-roads from St. Hu- 
bert to Champion and Marche ; post 
stations on the high road from Namur 

K 



194 



ROUTE 32.— BRUSSELS TO MONS. HAL. 



Sect. II. 



to Luxemburg (Rte. 29), to Bouillon, 
and by Neufchateau to Arlon, on the 
way to Luxemburg. 

A good road has been constructed 
from Dinant to Beauraing, and is about 
to be continued (it is said) to Bouillon : 
the entire distance is calculated at 8 
posts, about 40 m. 

Bouillon [Inn, H. du Nord, homely 
and small, but comfortable; commands 
a fine view) is a very interesting and 
picturesque town of 2500 inhab. ; it 
is beautifully situated at the bottom 
of a long valley washed by the Semoi, 
which winds round a rocky promontory 
crowned by the extensive Castle of Bouil- 
lon, repaired and restored since 1827, 
and converted into a military prison ; 
it is elevated high above the town, and 
washed by the river Semoi. It will well 
repay a visit. The dungeons are hewn 
out of the rock. The walks in the woods 
around the town are very pleasing. 

Bouillon, once capital of the duchy of 
the same name, was pawned by Godfrey 
of Bouillon to the Bishop of Liege, to 
raise funds for the first Crusade. In 
after times the bishops refused to allow 
it to be redeemed, which gave rise to 
a long series of feuds and fights be- 
tween them and Godfrey's descendants, 
so that the territory of Bouillon became 
truly debateable ground. At length 
Louis XIV. directed Marechal Crequi 
to take possession of the town, " not," 
says his published declaration, " for the 
purpose of predjudicing the Bishops of 
Liege, but for the protection of France, 
which is not sufficiently fortified in that 
quarter." Louis, having thus realised 
the fable of the Oyster, protested, be- 
fore the Congress of Nimwegen, that he 
was prepared to resign the province as 
soon as the umpires had decided to 
which of the contending parties it ought 
to belong. The dispute, however, was 
never settled, and the House of La 
Tour d'Auvergne assumed the sove- 
reignty and title of Dukes of Bouillon, 
with the consent of Louis (1696). The 
town was ceded to the Netherlands by 
the Treaty of Yienna. 

Passports are asked for here. 



ROUTE 32. 

BRUSSELS TO MONS AND VALENCIENNES 
BY HAL — ON THE WAY TO PARIS — 
RAILWAY. 

93 kilom. = 58| m. 

Terminus at Brussels, Station du 
Midi, near the S. Boulevard. 

On quitting the station the Boule- 
vard is crossed, the Port de Hal is 
seen on the 1., and the river Senne is 
passed near Foret. Good view of 
Bruxelles. 

6. Ruysbroeck Stat. 

The railway runs side by side with 
the Canal de Charleroi, whose bed is 
in some places higher than it. There 
are many cuttings on this line. 

3 Loth Stat. 

5 Hal Stat. (Inn : H. des Pays-Bas.) 
Hal is a town of 5000 inhab. on the 
Senne and the Canal de Charleroi. 
The Church of St. Mary (formerly of St. 
Martin), a pure Gothic edifice, contains 
a chapel resorted to by pilgrims on 
account of a miracle- workfn g image of 
the Virgin, of wood, 2 ft. high, which 
has acquired enormous wealth from the 
offerings of pious devotees, including 
gold plate given by Charles V., Maxi- 
milian I., Pope Julius II., &c. In a 
side chapel, near one of the doors, railed 
off, are 33 cannon-balls, which, having 
been aimed at the church during the 
bombardment, were caught by the 
Virgin in her robe spread over the town 
to protect it ! The High Altar of this 
church (made in 1533) is unequalled in 
the Netherlands. It is of marble, in 
the best style of the renaissance, sculp- 
tured apparently by Italian artists. 
Below is the depository for the Host : 
on the next stage is St. Martin dividing 
his cloak : the 2 lower rows of bas- 
reliefs represent the 7 Sacraments, ad- 
mirable as works of art ; the whole is 
surmounted by the pelican. 

In the octagon baptistery attached 
to the ch. is the gorgeous font of brass, 
covered by a spire studded with sta- 
tuettes and groups in high-relief, of 
the Baptism of Christ, St. Martin, &c. 
It was cast at Tournay, 1467, by an 
artist named Lefebvre. 

5 Tubise Stat. A tunnel precedes 

11 Braine le Comte Stat. — a town 



Belgium, 



ROUTE 32. — MONS. 



195 



of 4400 inhab., named after Count 
Baldwin, who bought it from the monks 
of St. Waudru, at Mons, 1158. 

The district around furnishes some 
of the finest flax which is anywhere 
produced : it is employed in the manu- 
facture of Brussels lace. A few miles 
to the N.W. is Steenkerke, where Wil- 
liam III. was defeated by the Duke of 
Luxemburg, in 1692, with a loss of 
7000 men. 

A railway is carried hence to Char- 
leroi and Namur, 38| m. (Rte. 28.) 

6 Soignies Stat. This town of 6500 
inhab. has a Ch. of St. Vincent, and a 
convent (perhaps the oldest in Bel- 
gium) founded in the 7th cent. There 
are tombstones of the 13th and 14th 
cent, in its churchyard. Soignies has 
given its name to the vast forest which 
reaches to "Waterloo. The railway 
makes an abrupt bend W. to reach 

13 Jurbize Stat. About 5 m. W. lies 
Beloeil. (Rte. 15.) Here a railway 
branches off to Ath and Tournay. (See 
Rte. 15.) To reach the 

Mons Station, the fortifications are 
cut through to admit the passage of the 
railway. 

12 Mons. (Bergen in Germ, and 
Flemish.) — Inns: Couronne,best; Aigle 
Noir, good. Mons, the capital of the 
province of Hainault (German, Hen- 
negau ; Flemish, Hennegouw), is a 
fortified town of 24,500 inhab., owing 
its origin to a castle built here by 
Julius Csesar during his campaign 
against the Gauls. After the siege in 
1680, the King of Spain, to whom the 
town belonged, rewarded the citizens 
for their courageous resistance, by con- 
ferring a peerage on every member of 
the corporation. The fortifications were 
razed by the Empr. Joseph II., but 
have been renewed and strengthened 
since 1818. The facilities for laying 
the country round the town completely 
under water, by admitting the river 
Trouille, add greatly to its defensive 
capabilities. The E. side is protected 
by 2 large ponds or lakes. 

Mons derives great advantages from 
the numerous and productive Coal- 
mines by which it is surrounded; a 
great many steam-engines are employed 
to pump up the water and extract the 



coal, which is imported in large quan- 
tities to Paris by the long line of inland 
navigation connecting these mines with 
the French metropolis. In 1840, 26,000 
persons were employed in 376 coalpits 
of the coalfield of Mons. There are 
also in the neighbourhood extensive 
bleaching grounds. The principal build- 
ing is the Church of St. Waudru (Wal- 
trudis), a handsome Gothic edifice, 
begun in 1460, but not completed till 
1580, on your 1. hand as you enter 
Mons from the railway. The interior is 
well worth notice ; the elegant and 
lofty reeded piers without capitals send 
forth a network of ribs over the roof. 
The high altar is decorated with curious 
marble bas-reliefs from the New Testa- 
ment, cut by an Italian artist, 1556, 
which were sadly mutilated at the 
French revolution. Here is also a cu- 
rious Tabernacle. 

On the highest ground in the city, 
not far from St. Waudru, is a tower or 
beffroi, built in 1662 on the site of 
Caesar's Castrum, as is reported. The 
castle to which it belongs is now a 
lunatic asylum. The Gothic Town Hall 
was begun in 1458 ; the tower is a 
later addition, and the whole ranks far 
below other municipal edifices of Bel- 
gium. 

Mons was the native place of Or- 
lando Lassus, the celebrated musician 
of the 16th cent. A communication 
is opened between Mons and the 
Schelde by the Canal de Conde'; a new 
branch, called Canal d'Antoing, has 
been cut to avoid the French territory 
altogether, . and to enter the Schelde 
lower down, at a point where both 
banks of that river belong to Belgium. 
About 10 m. S. from Mons, within the 
French frontier, was fought the bloody 
battle of Malplaquet, 1709, where the 
Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eu- 
gene beat the French, though with a 
loss of 20,000 men. 



A branch Railway between Mons 
and Manage opens a direct communica- 
tion from Paris to Charleroi, Namur, 
and Cologne, avoiding the detour to 
Braine le Comte. Its length is 24f 
kilom.=15J Eng. m. The stations are 

9f Havre Stat. 

K 2 



196 



ROUTE 32. JEMAPPES. ST. GHISLAIN. 



Sect. II. 



9j La Louviere Stat. Here a branch 
turns off on the rt. to Bascoup (5 Eng. 

5i Manage Stat. (See Rte. 28.) 
Tne Railway, on quitting Mons, 
crosses the river Trouille, and runs not 
very far from the Canal de Conde and 
the sluices of St. Ghislain, by means of 
which the whole country around might 
be inundated. 

4 Jemappes Stat. This village is 
celebrated for the victory gained by the 
French, under Gen. Dumouriez and 
the Duke de Chartres, late King Louis- 
Philippe, 6th Nov. 1792, over the Aus- 
trians. Three coalpits were filled with 
dead bodies of men and horses after the 
battle. The result of this victory was 
to make the French masters of Bel- 
gium. A stone has been set up close 
to the post-road to mark the scene of 
the battle. 

5 Saint Ghislain Stat. Near this is 
a populous and increasing colony, al- 
ready numbering 3750 inhab., though 
of recent origin, having been estab- 



lished by the late M. Legrand. It 
is composed principally of miners and 
iron-forgers, who are maintained by 
the mines of coal and iron here. Steam- 
engines are manufactured to a con- 
siderable extent here. The village is 
built with straight streets on a uniform 
plan, the houses being of the same 
height. This country resembles much 
the neighbourhood of Manchester and 
Bolton : the roads are black with coal- 
dust, which in windy weather begrimes 
the face and garments of the traveller, 
and the dwellings partake of the same 
hue. Every cottage seems as populous 
as a hive. 

2 Boussu Stat. 

4 Thulin Stat. 

4 Quievrain is the station of the 
Belgian custom-house. About £ m. 
farther on, the small river Aunelle 
marks the boundary of France. 

Blanc Misseron Stat. 

1^ Valenciennes (Rte. 15). For 
the Railway hence to Paris, see Hand- 
book for Travellers in France. 
From Brussels to Paris takes 11 hrs. 



Germany. 28. passports and police regulations. 197 




SECTION III. 
GERMANY. 

28. Passports, — 29. Inns and Expenses. — 30. Beds. — 31. Valets-de-Place. — 
32. Custom-house League, Zollverein. — 33. Distances, Travelling Maps. — 
34. Modes of Travelling, Posting, Laufzettel. — 35. Diligences, or Eiludgen. — 
36. Voiturier,or Lohnkutscher. — 37. Railroads. — 38. Baggage. — 39. Succinct 
Account of Germany. — 40. Some Peculiarities of German Manners, Titles, Saluta- 
tions, Recreations, Public Gardens, Kirmes, The Tumpikemen, Travelling Journey- 
men. — 41. Music. — 42. German Watering-places. — 43. German Towns, Fire- 
watch. Woodcutters. — 44. Clubs. — 45. Burial-grounds. 



[N.B. — The information contained in this Section is of a general character and 
applicable to the whole of Germany. The details peculiar to different states 
of Germany will be found respectively under the heads — Prussia, Saxony, 
Bavaria, Austria, &c] 

28. PASSPORTS AND POLICE REGULATIONS. 

* No one can travel in Germany without a passport, properly countersigned. 
(See § 46, 76, 86.) 

On entering a frontier town of Prussia, or any other state of Germany, and in 
most of the large towns of Austria and Bavaria, the traveller is requested at the 
gate to produce his passport. If it be a town of some importance, and he intend 
to sleep there, in all probability the passport must be forwarded to the Police- 
bureau to be examined and countersigned (visirt), in which case he will receive 
in exchange a ticket or receipt (schein), enabling him to get his passport back: 
in minor towns this proceeding may not be necessary, and the passport is merely 
detained 2 or 3 minutes, till the name be registered, and is then returned to 
the owner. It generally happens, however, that the traveller is requested to 
name the inn at which he proposes to take up his residence, in order that the 
passport may be sent after him : he is glad to avoid unnecessary delay, and the 
gatekeeper to have an opportunity of receiving a gratuity for his trouble in 
taking the passport to the inn. As matters of this sort are totally foreign to 
English habits, and it is to travellers of this nation that the Handbook is 
addressed, we shall dwell on a few particulars, which may be new to them, and 
useful to know. 

" All innkeepers are compelled to submit to the inspection of the police the 
daily arrivals and departures of their guests ; and not merely the name, surname, 
and country, but frequently the age, condition, whether married or single, pro- 
fession, religion, motives for travelling, and other particulars, are required. A 
book (called das Fremden Buch, Stranger's Book), ruled into columns, and 
methodically classed, is presented to the traveller for him to fill up." — S. 

Before he has remained 2 days in the place (the period of time is different in 
different countries), he is required, under penalty of a fine, to send, or take in 
person, to- the Police Office (Polizei Direction) the ticket which he received at 



198 29. inns. Sect. III. 

the gate ; and, if he intends remaining any time on the spot, he will, upon 
showing it, receive a permission of residence (Aufenthaltsschein — permission de 
sejour) for a certain period, at the expiration of which it will he renewed, if 
required. 

"When he has made up his mind to quit the place, his passport will he 
returned to him. It must then he vise : first, hy the police ; next, hy his own 
minister (if there he any resident English minister) ; and lastly, hy the ambassa- 
dors of the countries to which he is going, and through which he may pass. The 
arrangement of the passport should be attended to a day or two before the tra- 
veller's departure, as the necessary signatures are often not to be got in a single day. 

As a general rule, never pass out of one state into another without having the 
signature of the minister of the state you are about to enter upon your passport. 
On leaving a great capital to pass through the dominions of several sovereigns, 
the passport should be signed by the ministers of all these sovereigns resident at 
the capital. 

*#* Attention to the passport is particularly necessary when the traveller 
intends to enter Italy, or any part of the Austrian dominions. It cannot be 
too often repeated, to impress it on the traveller's mind, that without the 

SIGNATURE OF SOME AUSTRIAN AMBASSADOR, OR MINISTER, NO ONE IS EVER 
ALLOWED, ON ANY CONDITION, TO CROSS THE AUSTRIAN FRONTIER. The instances 

of delay, vexation, and trouble which annually occur to persons who, from igno- 
rance of this, proceed to the frontier, and are there stopped, are innumerable. 

29. inns. 

Great care has been taken in this work to furnish the traveller with the names 
of the best inns throughout Germany and the North of Europe, derived princi- 
pally from personal experience, or that of friends, and trusting as little as possible 
to the usual recommendations of Guide Books, unless they were ascertained to 
be well founded. As it is the first information which a traveller requires on 
reaching a place, the names of the inns in all instances stand first. 

German Innkeepers are, on the whole, of a higher class, and hold a superior 
position in their respective towns, to that occupied by persons of a similar 
calling in England. In N. Germany they are often men of considerable wealth 
and well connected. They usually preside at their own tables-d'hote, entering 
familiarly into conversation with their guests. It is rarely necessary to make a 
bargain beforehand with a German landlord, a precaution almost indispensable 
in Holland, Italy, and Switzerland. 

When, however, a traveller intends to take up his residence for several weeks, 
or even 6 or 8 days, in a hotel, it is a good plan, as well as customary, to come 
to an agreement with the landlord, who, under these circumstances, is usually 
willing to make an abatement of one-third from his usual charges. It is also a 
common practice to purchase a dozen or twenty tickets for the table-d'hote, which, 
when taken in such a number, are charged at a lower rate. The apartments are 
classed, as to price, according to the stories on which they are situated, the size, and 
the look-out — the highest and those turned to the back being least expensive. 

Average charges of inns in Northern Germany : — 

In Prussia. Frankfort, 

Dollars. Silver gros* Nassau, Baden, &c. 

Bed-rooms, varying ] 

according to size > from 1 to 10 or 12 = from 1 f. 12 kr. to 36 kr.. 

and situation - - j 

Dinner at table-d'hote - - - 15 to 20 = If. to 1 f. 48 kr. 

in private room from 1 to 1 10 = 1 f. 24 kr. to 2 f. 20 kr. 

Tea or coffee, a portion for one 5 or 6 = 24 kr. to 30 kr. 

Breakfast a la fourchette - - - -15= 36 kr. to 48 kr. 

Half a bottle of wine ----- 5= 18 kr. 



Germany. 29. expenses at inns; tables-d'hote. 199 

These prices do not apply to Austria and Southern Germany. For those 
countries refer to Handbook for South Germany. 

Average expenses of living for a party of 6, not including wine, in Nassau, 
"Wurtemberg, and Baden : — 

Breakfast not less than ---- 4 florins 

Dinner at table-d'hote rarely less than 1 fl. ; often 1 R 

1 fl. 15 kr. or 1 fl. 20 kr. J ° " \ 19 florins. 

Tea or coifee ------------ 3 „ 

Beds -------------- 6 „ 

This is a very moderate calculation, and the sum will be exceeded if the tra- 
vellers indulge in a private saloon. 

" Persons who travel for pleasure must expect to pay liberally, and any 
attempt on their part to make close bargains will generally fail ; there is a sort 
of ordinary charge, which the traveller soon finds out, and, with common tact 
and judgment, he may manage to visit most parts of the Continent without being 
entangled in annoying squabbles ; but should a bill contain items of an unreason- 
ably high price, instead of pointing them out to the waiter, and clamorously 
insisting on an immediate reduction, he should go himself to the master's room, 
and speak to him when no servants are by : a remonstrance founded on reason, 
and politely made, will then generally have its effect : this mode cannot be too 
strongly recommended." — S. Travellers intending to set out early in the morning 
should cause their bills to be made out and delivered to them over night, that they 
may examine the items at leisure ; but they should not pay them until the 
moment of starting. It is indispensable, to prevent fraud, to examine inn-bills, 
and to understand them before paying them ; he who neglects this offers a pre- 
mium to dishonesty, and will scarcely escape being cheated. 

Servants in German inns can exact no fee ; the head waiter (Oberkellner) usually 
receives 5 silver groschen, or 18 kr., per diem; the boots (Hausknecht), 2~ silver 
groschen. The English have introduced this custom of feeing servants into conti- 
nental inns, and something more is expected of them, especially as they often 
give much more trouble to the servants than the natives. 

" The English are often accused of meanness to the servants at hotels. This 
frequently arises, not from want of generosity on their part, but from the rascality 
of couriers, or of the servants themselves, in appropriating the fees meant for the 
establishment. The best way to obviate this would be for the innkeepers to make 
a specific charge ; or, failing in this, the traveller should write down on the bill 
the sum which he allots for the servants." See p. 231. 

Tables-d'hote. — The usual hour for dining is 1 o'clock; in the North of 
Germany it is as late as 2 or 3 ; in the South it is even as early as 12. The 
table-d'hote is frequented by both ladies and gentlemen, and, especially at the 
watering-places, by persons of the highest ranks, from Grand Dukes and Princes 
downwards. The stranger will find much more general urbanity than in a simi- 
larly mixed assemblage in England ; the topics and news of the day are discussed 
without restraint ; and if the traveller be anxious to gain general or local infor- 
mation, he will frequently succeed at the table-d'hote ; and should his visit to a 
town or place be somewhat rapid, perhaps he will have no other source to go 
to. Added to this, the best dinner is always to be had at the table-d'hote. It 
answers the landlord's purpose to provide sumptuously, en gros, for a large com- 
pany, and he therefore discourages dining in private. They who prefer taking 
their meals alone at a later hour of the day will probably dine on the refuse of 
the table-d'hote, and pay double price for an inferior dinner and a bottle of the 
same wine which at the public table passed for vin ordinaire. In fact, it discon- 
certs the system of a German household (and in Germany everything is done 
systematically) to dress a dinner, or even a mutton-chop, out of the usual hours ; 
and when masters and waiters put themselves out of the way to comply with the 



200 30. GERMAN BEDS. — 31. VALETS DE PLACE. Sect. III. 

foreign habits of English travellers, an extra price is regarded by many as hardly 
a sufficient compensation. 

German innkeepers, however, are beginning to be better accustomed to 
Englishmen's habits of dining late ; and in the hotels of many of the larger 
towns, such as Frankfurt, Coblenz, Baden, Wiesbaden, &c, there is a second 
table-d'hote at 4 or 5 o'clock, to accommodate the English : but not many years 
ago (and even at the present in the remoter parts of Germany), if a traveller hap- 
pened to reach an inn after the hour of table-d'hote, he stood a very poor chance 
of getting anything to eat at all. 

Those who intend to dine at the table-d'hote in a frequented inn at a full 
season should desire the waiter to keep their places. The guests are usually 
seated according to priority of arrival, the last comers being placed at the foot of 
the table. 

Supper, which, owing to the early hour of dinner, is a usiial meal in Germany, 
is ordered from the Carte (Speise-Carte). 

Travellers on the Rhine during May should inquire for Maitrink, a spiced 
wine, or cup flavoured with some aromatic herb, peculiar to this part of the 
country ; it sheds its flowers at the end of May. It used to be said to be best 
made at the small inn at Eolandseck. 

Few German inns afford what in England would be termed sitting-rooms ; 
even the best apartments, on the lower floor, though furnished elegantly as a 
parlour, serve as bed-rooms, and contain one or more beds. The price of a room 
depends upon the number of beds in it, but the double-bedded rooms are inva- 
riably superior to those with only one bed. The partitions dividing the rooms 
of German inns are often very thin, and the rooms usually open into each other ; 
the tenant should, therefore, remember that what he says and does is liable to be 
overheard. 

30. GERM AX BEDS. 

One of the first complaints of an Englishman on arriving in Germany will be 
directed against the beds. It is therefore as well to make him aware before- 
hand of the full extent of misery to which he will be subjected on this score. A 
German bed is made only for one ; it may be compared to an open wooden box, 
often hardly wide enough to turn in, and rarely long enough for any man of 
moderate stature to lie down in. The pillows encroach nearly half-way down, 
and form such an angle with the bed that it is scarcely possible to lie at full 
length, or assume any other than a half-sitting posture. Curtains are almost 
always wanting. The place of blankets is sometimes supplied by a light puffy 
feather-bed, which is likely to be kicked off, and forsake in his utmost need the 
sl eeper , who, on awaking in cold weather, finds himself frozen : should it remain 
in its position in warm weather, the opposite alternative is that of suffocation 
beneath, it. Mr. Coleridge has recorded his abhorrence of a German bed, 
declaring " he would rather carry his blanket about him, like a wild Indian, than 
submit to this abominable custom." The Germans themselves say that they use 
the feather-bed merely to cover their feet in cold weather. 

The stranger who appreciates this nuisance to its full extent is recommended 
to ask the chambermaid for a counterpane (bett-decke), instead of the usual 
federbett. 

31 . VALETS-DE-PLACE ; OR, LOHNBEDIENTER. 

It has been the custom of many travellers who have published tours to speak 
very contemptuously of the class of guides who go by the name of valets-de- 
place, though it may fairly be suspected that they owe much of the best part of 
their books to that despised caste. The fact is, that when a traveller arrives for 
the first time at a spot which he is desirous of seeing thoroughly, and at the 



Germany* 32. German custom-house league. 201 

same time does not intend to remain long in it, a valet-de-place is indispensable, 
unless he has friends who will perform the part of ciceroni for him. There are 
always a certain number of persons experienced in the duties of a guide attached 
to every inn ; and if the traveller, instead of engaging a person nominated by the 
landlord, for the sake of sparing a franc or two, put his trust in the boys who 
may accost him in the streets, he rims the risk of falling into bad hands, or of 
finding himself in situations in which it will be neither agreeable nor creditable 
to be placed. 

The utility of a valet-de-place consists in his knowledge of the hours at which 
each church, picture-gallery, palace, or other sight, is open, or visible ; how to 
procure tickets of admission, and where to find the keepers of them, which spares 
the traveller much time in running about in search of them, and, if he have a 
spare hour, furnishes the means of spending it advantageously. The valet-de- 
place will also know the residences of all the ambassadors, and the mode of 
obtaining passports, and will undertake to have them properly vise. Nothing 
is so annoying as to have to traverse the streets of a large town in search of 
ministers and consuls, and, on arriving, perhaps to find you have come at the 
wrong time, or at least to be compelled to dance attendance for hours. It is far 
preferable to promise your valet-de-place a franc or two, if he secure the proper 
signatures within a fixed time. 

At the same time, it is necessary to put the traveller on his guard against the 
tricks of a valet-de-place. For his own advantage, and the interest of the inn- 
keeper his patron, he will often endeavour to detain the traveller by framing- 
excuses — that collections are not open — that the passport office is closed, or — 
the minister out of town. It is better to state beforehand to the man what 
objects you desire to see, and how much time you can devote to seeing them ; to 
ascertain from him at once at what hours different sights are thrown open to the' 
public, and to make him arrange the order of proceeding accordingly. "With 
respect to passports, it may be borne in mind that the hours of attendance at 
police offices are, with very few exceptions, so regulated as never to detain per- 
sons who are anxious to proceed ; and if the valet-de-place maintains there is any 
impediment, the best way to settle the matter is by calling in the landlord, or, if 
that will not do, by going in person to the police-office. 

The fee paid to a valet-de-place varies in different parts of Germany ; and it 
will be found particularised in the description of almost all the great cities. It is 
not always necessary to engage him for the whole day : he may be hired by the 
hour, and paid accordingly. 

Travellers are warned on no account to take a valet-de-place with them into a 
shop where they wish to make purchases, since it is an acknowledged practice of 
the valet-de-place to demand of the tradesman a fee of 5 per cent, on the sum laid 
out by the stranger whom he conducts, and this is, of course, added to the price 
paid by the purchaser. Another practice, in towns where palaces or churches are 
exhibited by fixed attendants, is for the valet-de-place to name a larger sum 
than is necessary as the fee to be paid to the attendant, part of which he receives 
back himself : unless the traveller ascertains that the fee named is fixed by tariff 
or usage, it is usually advisable to disregard altogether the sum mentioned by 
him. 

32. GERMAN CUSTOM-HOUSE LEAGUE, ZOLLVEREIN. — COINAGE. 

Down to 1833 almost every state in Germany had its own tariff and system of 
duties, and the traveller was subjected to the inconvenience of custom-house 
visitations on the frontier of each state, however insignificant ; while the vexa- 
tious impediments thrown in the way of trade were enormous. Some states, 
situated in the interior of the Continent, were compelled to pay 10 or 12 different 
transit duties for every article they imported or exported. 

K 3 



202 33. DISTANCES. — TRAVELLING MAPS. Sect. III. 

An Association, called Zoll-Verein (Toll Union), headed by Prussia, is now 
formed for the furtherance of trade by consolidating the different states of Ger- 
many, and uniting them under one system of customs. The members of this 
league have agreed to adopt the same scale of duties, to abolish all intermediate 
custom-houses, and to divide the profits among the states of the union propor- 
tionately to the population of each. In consequence of this, many of the 
restraints which impeded the communication from one part of Germany to the 
other have been removed. The conforming states are — Prussia (the head of the 
league), Bavaria, Saxony, Wiirtemberg, Baden, Brunswick, Hesse-Darmstadt, 
Cassel, Nassau, Frankfurt, the Duchies of Saxony, and Principalities of Anhalt. 
Those which have, up to the present time, held back from this commercial con- 
federation are — Hanover, Oldenburg, Mecklenburg, Holstein, and the Hanse 
Towns, which have formed a minor league of their own. Thus the traveller who 
has crossed the outer line is freed from the vexations of the Douanier in every part 
of Central Germany, and may proceed without interruption from Belgium to the 
frontier of Russia, and from Tyrol to the Baltic, a distance of 700 or 800 m. : 
and a small transit duty enables goods to pass all the states of the Union. Austria 
still follows the ancient regulations in all the states belonging to her. 

This Confederation made the first step towards producing a political nation- 
ality in Germany. Another object effected by the League is, unity in the currency. 
A money convention was entered into by the States forming the Union in 1837, 
who agreed on a new basis of valuation under the term Sad Deutsche Wdhrung 
(S. D. W.), at the rate of 24f gulden to the marc of fine silver, the marc of fine 
silver weighing 233 f^ grammes. 

The term " Vier-und-zwanzig- gulden- Fuss " implies that the marc of fine 
silver is coined into 24 gulden or florins. The florins coined by the Customs 
Union are nearly of this rate, differing only 2 per cent. ; 1 fl.=19|c?., making 
the par of exchange with London 120f fl. S. D. W. = 10Z. According to the 
24 gulden Fuss, 118 fl.=10Z. 

1 marc of fine silver=14 Pruss. dollars=24|- fl. of S. Germany=20 fl. of Aus- 
tria=60 lire Austriache. Thaler=lf fl. Florin=^ thaler. 

Bavaria, Wurtemberg, Baden, Frankfurt, and Saxony have issued coins at this 
rate : piece of 2 thalers=3j florins, or ) of the marc. It bears on one side the 
head of the sovereign, on the other the words " Vereins Mimze." 

1 centner of the ZoHverein=50 French kilogrammes=110j lbs. avoirdupois. 

The ton of 4 scheffels=6 imp. bushels, nearly 1 per cent. more. 

33. DISTANCES. — TRAVELLING MAPS. 

1 German m.=4| Eng. m. (say 5 Eng. m. on an average), or about 1 French 
post. 15 Germ, m., or 14*77 Prussian, make a degree. 1 Germ. m. = 22,803 
Rhenish feet. 

2 Germ, m., or 4 stunden (hours), make one post = 9£ Eng. m. The German 
post stunde is not quite 1\ Eng. m. ; the Stunde zu Fuss (hour walking) is about 
3 m., or as much as a man can walk in an hour without much exertion. In 
Rhenish Prussia the mile is divided into 100 parts, which are marked by small 
stones set up at the roadside. These stones are therefore 82 yards Eng. apart, 
and 21 1 of these hundredths make an English mile, nearly. This subdivision of 
the German mile is used to express distances on the railroads. 

German post miles compared with English. -£ no Q er# jjn<*. 
1 Prussian, Bavarian, Hanoverian, New Saxon, Hessian = 43 or 5 = 23 

1 Austrian = 4f — 5 = 23f 

1 Old Saxon = 5|§ — 5 = 284, 

1 French Poste = 4i — 5 = 24 

1 French Myriametre - - • --- - - - - - = 6i — 5 = 31 

L. R. G. 



Germany* 34. modes of travelling, posting. 203 

The most clear, accurate, and portable Travelling Maps of Germany are, 1 . 
Hendschel's Post Map (published by Jugel, Frankfurt) for the roads ; 2. Wieland's 
Zollvercin Karte for the Custom-houses; 3. Bernhard's Sprachkarte for the Dia- 
lects, 4. Hendschel's Eisenbahn — Atlas for the Railways, and " Illustrations 
to the Handbook," being a series of separate maps of the Routes contained in 
this book, published at the suggestion of the Editor — will be found useful. 5., 
Hendschel's Rhein-Panorama. 

There is a very good travelling map of Germany, with separate maps of the 
several railways, by Diez, published by Justus Perthes : Gotha, 1848. It costs, 
when mounted on linen and in a case, 3 thalers = 9s. 

34. MODES OF TRAVELLING. — POSTING, OR EXTRA POST. — LAUFZETTEL. 

Posting throughout Germany has been placed on a much improved footing, 
though still inferior to what it is in England, in the quickness of travelling, 
speed of changing, and goodness of the horses. 

On all the great roads, with hardly one exception, the postmasters will provide 
carriages (usually open caleches) for persons who have none of their own, but 
they are often dirty, and generally very uncomfortable. 

In the large towns of Germany the traveller who requires post-horses must 
forward his passport beforehand to the postmaster. At least an hour's previous 
notice is required. The horses should not be brought to the door a moment 
before they are wanted, as an extra charge is made for every half-hour they are 
kept in waiting. 

The postmasters, in great towns, and where the king and court reside, &c, are 
entitled to make an extra charge of \ or § post for horses, on the first stage into 
or out of the town, which is called a royal post (or poste de faveur). In Germany 
the traveller pays only for the actual number of horses he uses. 

On hilly stages the postmaster is empowered to compel travellers to take 
leaders (vorspann) to drag their carriage up the ascents. He receives a docu- 
ment, officially signed by the postmaster-general, to entitle him to make this de- 
mand, and must produce the paper if travellers require to see it. With these 
two exceptions, a traveller is obliged to take on, from every post station, as many 
horses as brought his carriage to it. This may sometimes be avoided by paying 
a postmaster, at the beginning of the journey, for the additional horses he is 
entitled to put on, without attaching them, or having them mentioned or included 
in the ticket. Be always on your guard against any concession in regard to extra 
horses, for if once on there is no getting them off again. Whenever an extra 
horse is taken, either from necessity, on account of heavy roads, or in order to 
push on, take care to have this stated distinctly on the posting ticket. These 
posting tickets, or receipts, serve as a check against overcharges, and should always 
be demanded. 

German postilions are proverbial for their slowness, and, excepting in parts of 
Prussia, in Baden, in the countries where the post is managed by the Prince of 
Thurn and Taxis, and in some parts of Austria, 1 Germ. m. an hour, including 
stoppages, is as much as can be calculated on. 

Postilion's Trinkgeld (drink-money). The best general rule is to pay him as a 
horse, or double the tariff, if the traveller is satisfied with the postilion. He is 
never restricted to the sum which he can legally demand, except when he has not 
given satisfaction. 

The wealthy Germans themselves pay a postilion in Prussia, &c. — 
For 2 or 3 horses 1 mile from 10 to 12 silver groschen. 
— 4 — — 18 to 20 •— 

In Baden and South Germany — 

For 2 horses 1 post 1 fl. to 1 fl. 12 kr. 

— 4 — — 1 fl. 30 kr. to 2 fl. 

■ When' 2 carriages drawn by post-horses meet at or near the middle of a 



204 



34. POSTING. LAUFZETTEL, 



Sect. Ill, 



stage, the postilions generally expect to be allowed to stop and transfer them- 
selves and their horses, so that each may return home at once. In N. Germany 
this cannot he done without the traveller's permission. No variation is made in 
consequence in the sum paid to the postilion who drives to the end of the stage. 
It is not wise to resist this, except under peculiar circumstances : the men usually 
drive, and the horses go, better homeward ; besides, a relay is thus sometimes- 
secured on stages where horses are scarce. 

The German postboy is sometimes familiarly addressed by the term Schwager 
(brother-in-law) : the reason of this singular title is not satisfactorily explained. 

At every posthouse a book is kept in which the traveller can enter all com- 
plaints which he has to make against the postmaster. These, of course, cannot 
be redressed unless the name and address of the complainant be affixed. " In all 
cases of serious dispute with a postmaster or innkeeper, reference should be 
made to the magistrate of the district, not to the village officer, who is not likely 
to do justice to a stranger against a fellow townsman. The mere threat of this 
will often settle a dispute, by diminishing the probability of imposition being 
connived at." L. M. r. 

A post-caleche costs about as much as a third horse. 

The Wagenmeister (coachmaster), a kind of superior ostler, who superintends 
the postboys, is sometimes entitled to a small fee on putting the horses to. 

Schmiergeld (grease-money). On driving up to the posthouse, the traveller 
is often addressed with the words, " Wollen sie schmieren lassen? " (Will you 
have the wheels greased ?) Whether this is done or not, in some countries the fee 
is exacted ; but more frequently it is only paid when the grease is actually applied. 

There is a regulation in some parts of Germany which compels travellers who 
have arrived with post-horses, at any place where there is a post-station, to con- 
tinue their journey with post-horses, or else to remain 24 or even 48 hours on the 
spot, before they can avail themselves of any other mode of conveyance. This 
rule is not always enforced. 

Number of Horses. — An open carriage (caleche or britzka), not very heavy, 
and without an imperial, is very often drawn by 2 horses only, even with 3 
persons ; while a close chariot always requires 3 horses, even though there be 
only one person inside. 

Where 3 horses are necessary for a carriage, the third horse is not harnessed 
abreast, as in France and Belgium, but before the other 2, at the end of the pole. 

In many parts of Germany, if the carriage be not provided with a box in front, 
from which the postilion can drive, a thud (or extra) horse must be taken for 
him to ride on. 



Comparative expense (exclusive 
of turnpikes) of Posting per 
English mile ----- 





2 Horses. 


Postilion. 




S. d. 


d. 


In Austria 


5 


2f 


Bavaria 


5i 


21 


Prussia 


6* 


2f 


Belgium 


6£ 


H 


England 


1 6 


3 



Total. 



s. d. 
7f 
8i 
9i 

lOf 

1 9 



L. S. 

Fuller details of charges for posting in the different countries of Germany will 
be found in the introductory information prefixed to the routes through each of 
those countries. 

Laufzettel. — Travellers pressed for time, and desirous of avoiding all delay 
at post-houses, may bespeak relays of horses along the road they are about to 
travel, on application at the Poste aux Chevaux or the post-office of the town 



Germany. 35. diligences. 205 

from which they set out. They must apply at least 12 hours before the time 
they intend to start, must state in writing when they intend to depart, the route 
they propose to follow, and the number of horses they require ; and the post- 
master will send on beforehand and make arrangements accordingly. This 
order is called a Laufzettel, and may be obtained at a trifling expense. " It is 
in use, I believe, throughout Germany, certainly in Prussia, Saxony, Bavaria, 
and Hesse Cassel. I found, indeed, that wherever a diligence or schnellpost 
travelled you might have a laufzettel. The value of this in short days, and 
when you wish to get rapidly over an uninteresting country, is very great ; and 
in the harvest, when post-horses and postilions are constantly employed in the 
fields, you will sometimes find it difficult to get through 70 or 80 English miles 
in 2 days without a laufzettel. I always found my horses, on all routes, ready 
harnessed, and put to the carriage almost as quickly as is done at Hounslow, 
when I had taken the precaution of bespeaking them in this manner." — D. J. 

" In Austria, Prussia, and other parts of Germany, travellers have the power 
of taking- the post-horses ' en courier ' (courier-massig) ; the charge is about 
one-half more ; but the postilion is bound to drive 2 German m. in 1 hour, 
and to change in 5 minutes by day and 10 by night. 3 ' courier horses ' will 
not cost more than 4 ' extra post-horses,' and will travel a great deal quicker." — 
Dr. R. The rate of ordinary posting is, at least in Prussia, 2 Germ. m. in 
1 h. 20 min. 

Tolls. — The practice of including the tolls in the charge for the horses is 
extending in Germany, much to the convenience of the traveller. 

35. DILIGENCES 

(called in Prussia Schnellposten, in Austria Eilvcagen). 

The post-office and public conveyances belong to the Government, and are 
managed by its officers, with very few exceptions, in all the German states. The 
Schnellpost, or Eilwagen, is placed under the care of a guard, called Conducteur, 
or Schirrmeister. In most cases the seats are numbered, and passengers are 
placed in the order in which their places are engaged. The first numbers are 
affixed to the corner seats, which of course are more desirable than those in the 
middle, especially for night travelling. On this account, it will be perceived how 
advantageous it is to engage the place as long as possible before the time of 
starting. The fare must be paid beforehand, and a receipt is always given for 
it, and for baggage, whether the passenger takes it with him or sends it by the 
waggon. The greatest care is taken of the baggage of travellers all over the 
Continent : instances of loss are very rare. Every package must be distinctly 
addressed, with the name and destination of the person to whom it belongs ; 
otherwise the post-office will not be responsible for it if lost. 

In Prussia, Austria, and many other parts of Germany, when all the places in 
the main diligence (Hauptwagen) are booked, additional carriages (bei-chaisen) 
are prepared for extra passengers — a very great accommodation. On some 
occasions, for instance during the Leipzig fair, as many as 20 or 30 additional 
carriages are attached, and set out and travel in company. Passengers cannot be 
called for at their own houses, but must meet the diligence at the coach-office, 
and must send their luggage at least an hour before. Every article is weighed 
and entered in a book. A certain weight is allowed to each passenger ; all above 
that must be paid for : large trunks must be sent by a baggage-waggon. 

The Conducteur is usually a superior person to the English guard ; and, besides 
his duties, has the charge of paying postilions, and is responsible for the baggage 
of his passengers. He is not entitled to any remuneration from them ; indeed, in 
many cases he is forbidden to acccept any. 

Rate of Fares per Germ. m. 8 to 10 S. gr. = 28 to 36 kr. = 9$<Z. to llftf. 



206 36. GERMAN VOITURIER LOHNKUTSCHER. Sect. III. 

Rate of travelling. — In Prussia, on the best roads, 8 English m. an hour ; in 
other parts, and in Austria, 6 m. ; but sometimes only 1 Germ. m. per hour. 

Postwaggons. — Besides the Eilwagen, there is another species of public con- 
veyance of an inferior kind, not so well appointed, and much slower, called Fahr- 
post, or Postwagen. It is so tedious, usually on account of the long stoppages 
which it makes at every stage, that the traveller might get to his journey's end 
nearly as soon on foot. On those roads where there are eilwagen, the postwagen 
should be decidedly avoided, as these are commonly crowded by inferior persons ; 
but there are other roads which are only traversed by a postwagen. 

For ladies, or for a family, a diligence is by no means a desirable conveyance, 
and is not nearly so economical as a Lohnkutscher's carriage. In many cases, 
where a party amounts to 3 or 4, it will be less expensive to buy a carriage and 
travel post than with the diligence. 

36. THE GERMAN VOITURIER — LOHNKUTSCHER. 

In all the large towns of Germany, coachmen (called Lohnkutscher or Land- 
kutscher), similar to the Italian Vetturini, abound, ready at all times to convey 
travellers in every direction. They are usually to be met with in the principal 
streets, in front of the great inns, where their carriages are stationed, and where 
they hang up boards, bearing the names of the places to which they are bound, 
and they are not backward in giving the same information verbally, as they 
usually address every one who passes with the question, " Suchen Sie Gelegenheit, 
mein Herr ?" (Are you in search of an opportunity [i. e. of travelling], sir ?) 

The advantages of Vetturino travelling consist, first, in its being cheaper than 
posting, or even than the Schnellpost, when 4 persons join in taking a carriage ; 
secondly, it is more independent than the diligence, as it allows the traveller to 
stop on the road, by having a previous understanding with the driver'; thirdly, as 
there are many roads on which German schnellposts and eilwagen do not travel 
every day of the week, it is often the only mode of proceeding unless the traveller 
take post-horses ; fourthly, it is almost the only available mode of travelling upon 
cross or side roads which are not post roads ; fifthly, it allows the traveller an 
opportunity of resting at night. At the same time it must be remembered that, 
as the Lohnkutscher travels with the same pair of horses, it is not an expeditious 
mode of conveyance ; 40 or 50 m. being the utmost extent of a day's journey ; and 
1 or 2 halts of an hour or two's duration are necessary to refresh the horses 
each day. It will therefore not answer for the traveller who is pressed for time. 

The usual Vetturino carriage is a light sort of caleche, capable of being shut in 
with leather curtains or glass windows, and of accommodating 4 or 5 persons, and 
1 on the box. The coachman undertakes the care and transport of baggage 
without any additional charge. Attached to the footboard behind is a large 
wicker basket for holding luggage, which is secured in its place by a chain. 

The usual cost per diem for the entire use of a caleche, drawn by 2 horses, is 
from 6 to 7 dollars in Prussia and the N. of Germany, and 8 or 10 florins in the 
S. near the Rhine ; and along much traversed roads the rate is sometimes even 
higher. The driver, if he behave well, receives a trinkgeld of 12 groschen, or a 
zwanziger, per diem. In this is included every charge for tolls, barriers, ferries, 
&c, and the driver provides for himself and horses. When forage is dear or tolls 
heavy, some little difference may be made ; but the above may be considered an 
average of the charges. As a further scale by which to calculate a Lohnkutscher's 
charge it may be mentioned that the hire of a carriage for 4 persons should not 
exceed § or § the fare of 4 for the same distance in the eilwagen. 

Upon much frequented roads the German Lohnkutscher has no right to claim 
back fare, as he hardly fails to pick up passengers on his return ; and indeed he 
will not hesitate to go to the most distant corner of Europe if he meets with a 
good offer. 



Germany. 37. railways. 207 

Before hiring a carriage expressly for a journey, it is advisable to ascertain 
whether there be no return carriages (retour chaisen) about to take the same 
route, as such may be engaged at a very reduced rate. 

A single individual has no occasion to take a whole coach to himself ; he may 
secure a single place, paying proportionately ; but then he must take his chance 
of the company he may have to encounter as fellow-passengers. He should 
make his bargain and secure his place over night ; if he wait till the morning, he 
will probably find that all the Lohnkutschers have departed before he was up, as 
they set out betimes, and he will either be compelled to remain on the spot till 
the following day, or to hire a carriage expressly for himself. 

When the journey will last for several days, it will be well not to engage the 
coachman at once for the whole distance, but, if satisfied, to take him on day by 
day. It is better not to employ a driver upon a road which he has not travelled 
before, but to seek out one who will serve as a guide, and be able to giv$ some 
information about the inns and country through which he has to pass. 

In Germany it is not customary or necessary to draw up a written agreement 
with the driver, as in Italy ; but it is sometimes the practice for him to deposit 
in the hands of the person who has engaged him a small sum of money (hand- or 
darauf-geld ; in Italy, la caparra) as a surety that he will not fail in his engage- 
ment, and run off, in case he can make a better bargain elsewhere. The receipt 
of this money is also binding on the part of the employer, who cannot afterwards 
put off the driver without paying him a consideration. 

Before engaging the whole carriage a verbal stipulation should be made with the 
driver, that he is to take up no person by the way without his employer's con- 
sent ; that he is to stop when and where he is bid ; and, though it is an under- 
stood thing that he is to pay all tolls, &c, a foreigner had better mention this 
also. The time of starting and the length of the day's journey should also be fixed. 

The German Voiturier does not engage to provide you ^with meals, as the 
Italian ; but he expects to be allowed to stop at inns of his own choosing — a 
condition to which travellers are not compelled to agree, though they rarely ob- 
ject. He never fails to regulate his daily journey so as to make his mid-day halt 
at some place where there is a good dinner just ready to be served up. This 
mid- day halt of 2 or 3 hours' duration will often suffice to enable the traveller 
to see as much as he can desire of many places where he would have no inclina- 
tion to spend a whole day, and which he would merely drive hurriedly through 
in the public diligences. 

These directions will probably be found to be as ample as are necessary ; of 
course, the traveller must not always expect that matters will go smoothly. If 
he be totally unacquainted with the German language, he will obviously be ex- 
posed to numberless inconveniences, and, if he be prudent, will bear them quietly ; 
in vetturino travelling, he must expect to start at break of day in all weathers, 
and at a pace seldom exceeding a good ordinary walk ; at mid-day to rest for 
3 or 4 hours, possibly at a place of not the slightest interest ; and to go to bed 
at the setting of the sun. When it has been said above that a single indi- 
vidual may secure a place, paying proportionately, it may often happen to a tra- 
veller, especially an Englishman, from ignorance, mismanagement, and other 
causes, to find that his share will be 2 or 3 times greater than that of any of 
his fellow-passengers. Attempts, too, to limit the number of passengers below 
the usual complement frequently terminate in the traveller's being both cheated 
and laughed at. 

37. RAILWAYS. 

Kailroads have extended rapidly in Germany within the last few years. The 
map, and the following routes, will show what lines are now open, or about to 
open. 

Many of the German rules and regulations are in the highest degree cumbrous, 



208 38. baggage. Sect. III. 

frivolous, vexatious, and useless ; none more so than those relating to overweight 
(iibergewicht) of baggage. No more than 40 lbs. are generally allowed free ; if you 
have 41 lbs. you pay as for 100. Travellers should be at the station, if they have 
luggage, some time before the train starts, as the weighing, ticketing, and paying 
for the luggage is a very tedious process. 

Numbered tickets are affixed to every article, and a corresponding receipt is 
given to the owner, which he must produce at the end of his journey in order to 
reclaim his property. There is a sort of German Bradshaw, " Eiseribahn Tele- 
graph," -published by Jugel of Frankfort, giving Time Tables of the German lines, 
which is very serviceable. 

38. BAGGAGE. 

The Romans showed they fully appreciated the nature of baggage in de- 
signating it by the appropriate word " impedimenta," and truly the traveller will 
find it an impediment at every step. It is a source of much anxiety, trouble, and 
expense ; and he alone can be called independent who can carry all his chattels 
On his back. Ladies should be cautioned not to encumber themselves with 
supernumerary cap and band boxes ; even if they travel post in their own 
carriage, it will be less trouble and expense to buy such articles in the great 
towns, than to have to take an extra horse in consideration of the number of 
packages. 

A person about to travel, not in his own carriage, but in public conveyances, if 
he require much baggage, should distribute it into small packages ; and, instead 
of taking one large box or trunk of wood (koffer), had better provide himself with 
two portmanteaus (felleisen) of leather, or with a carpet-bag. 

Throughout Germany, passengers by the schnellpost or eilw'agen are very 
strictly limited as to the quantity of baggage ; in general, one is allowed no more 
than 30 lbs. free of expense — all above that is called over- weight (iibergewicht), 
and must be paid for. But even payment will not enable the passenger to take 
his baggage with him if it weigh more than 50 lbs., in case the eilw'agen happen 
to be full. Where there is room it is commonly received, but, if not, the di- 
rector of the post-office cannot be compelled to take it, should it exceed by a few 
pounds the prescribed limits. It must, in that case, be sent by a separate con- 
veyance, a baggage waggon (packwagen), which, being a much heavier and 
slower vehicle, usually sets out some time before the schnellpost or eilw'agen, 
and arrives after it. A traveller loaded with heavy trunks, and ignorant of this 
regulation, may be subjected to great inconvenience by being separated for 
several days from them ; while he that is aware of it will deposit the articles 
immediately wanted in a light bag or valise, and send off his heavy baggage 
beforehand, some days before he starts himself. A receipt is given for every 
article forwarded in this manner, on presenting which at the post-office at 
the place to which the traveller is bound, the luggage is delivered to him as soon 
as it arrives. 

When about to plunge into a mountainous country, where there are no car- 
riage roads, it is indispensable to diminish the baggage to the utmost. Trunks, 
boxes, and parcels may be safely forwarded by the government or private eil- 
wagen from one capital to another, or even across a frontier into the territory 
of another sovereign. In the latter case they should be addressed to the owner 
at the custom-house (Haupt Mauth, or Zollamt) of the place to which he wishes 
them sent, where they will be taken care of, and kept till called for. At the 
same time a letter of specification (frachtbrief) should be despatched by post, bear- 
ing the same address as the parcel, and stating the nature and value of the con- 
tents, so as to identify them when the owner arrives. When he comes to claim 
them, he will be required to show his passport, and to open the packages in the 
ordinary manner in the presence of a custom-house officer. 
When a parcel is not sent beyond a frontier, but is merely forwarded from one 



Germany. 39. succinct account of Germany. 209 

town to another, if the traveller have no friend or agent in the town to whose 
care he can consign it, all that is required is, that he should address it paste 
restante, and it will be kept at the post-office till called for. 

39. SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF GERMANY,* 

It will heighten the interest of a tour, and spread a more general acquaintance 
with the German people, whose character, manners, and language nearly ap- 
proach our own, to give a short outline of the geography and history of their 
country. 

A. Geography and Statistics, &c. &c. — Germany, situated in the centre of 
Europe, reaching from the Adriatic to the Baltic and North Sea, borders towards 
the S. upon Switzerland and Italy, towards the N. upon Denmark, on the E. 
upon Hungary, Poland, and Bussia, on the W. upon France and the Netherlands ; 
and contains 11,556 German square miles. 

Physical Geography. The central group of mountains, which may be termed 
the heart of Germany, is the Fichtelgebirge. From this branch out, crosswise, 
4 principal chains of mountains, which influence the rivers, climate, and popu- 
lation. They stretch diagonally ; the Thuringerwald to the N.W., the Erzge- 
birge to the N.E., the Bohmerwald to the S.E., and the Bauhalp to the S.W. 
Each has its branches and prolongations, and, singularly enough, each quarter 
of lower country comprehended between the chains above mentioned has a sepa- 
rate group of mountains in it except the southern. In the North the Harz 
stands out alone, in the East the Biesengebirge, in the West the mountains of 
"Westphalia and the Bhine. The Schwarzwald, running from N. to S., is excep- 
tional. 

The population, chiefly spread in small towns, there being but 4 of more 
than 100,000 inhabitants (Vienna, Berlin, Prague, and Hamburg), amounts to 
42 millions. By race and language, 35 millions are of the Germanic, and, with the 
exception of 320,000 French and Italians and 380,000 Jews, the remainder of 
the Slavonic race. By religion, there are 22 millions Catholics, most of them in 
the S. ; and about 19t§ millions of the Lutheran and Calvinist (now in Prussia 
and almost everywhere united) or Protestant persuasion, mostly in the N. 

The language, not beautiful in sound, but very rich, manly, and expressive, 
well suited to poetry and all other styles of writing, is the mother tongue of Hol- 
land, England, Switzerland, Denmark, and Sweden. It so nearly resembles 
English that the bulk of our most necessary words for eating, drinking, for the 
limbs, colours, elements — in fact, words indispensable to a first state of society — 
are even now nearly the same. The best German is spoken by the higher classes 
in Saxony and Hanover. 

The climate is temperate, and, the weather being steady, it is in summer often 
very warm ; in winter severe, but then with a clear sky. The great rivers, 
Bhine, Danube, &c, are very often frozen over from November to March. The 
most fertile parts are the great valleys of the Danube and the Bhine. 

" So many leave England for climate, and expect to find an improvement as 
soon as they cross the Channel, that a few words on the climate of Germany may 
be useful. The N.W. is the dampest quarter, the S.W. the mildest, the S.E. 
the driest, the N.E. the coldest. In general the whole basin of the Bhine enjoys 
a better climate, winter and summer, than the rest of Germany. The alterna- 
tions are almost as frequent as in England, except in very cold winters, and they 
are more sudden, and range between higher and lower extremes, daily and yearly. 
The neighbourhood of Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, and Freiburg, is perhaps the best 
climate in Germany." — F. 8. 

Living is about as cheap again in the S. as in the N. A thaler in the N. 
will not procure more than a gulden there. The common necessaries of life 

* Furnished to the Editor of the Handbook by a very intellgent friend. 



210 39. SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF GERMANY. Sect. III. 

are one-third cheaper than in England ; and in many other things, education, 
doctors, law, &c, the difference is much greater. 

Agriculture flourishes : in the N. there are yet many large estates ; not so 
many in the S., where a free peasantry till their own soil. Although the too 
numerous subdivisions are felt as an evil, this is preferred to the opposite ex- 
treme of overgrown estates, cultivated by mere labourers. 

Produce for exportation is — corn, wool, iron and other metals, timber, wine, 
and mineral waters. 

The Manufactures, vigorously reviving since the peace, and only surpassed by 
the genius, capital, and machinery of England, supply — linen, cloth, cotton goods, 
silts, paper, leather, hardware, china, glass, toys, beer, &c. 

Importations: chiefly colonial produce and articles of British manufacture. 
Germany takes more of the last than any country in the world except the United 
States, — to the amount of 4 million pounds sterling yearly. 

The principal Seaport, almost the first of the Continent, is Hamburg ; the 
second is Trieste. 

The chief Fairs are held at Leipsig and Frankfurt-on-the-Maine. 

The golden era of German Commerce, when, along with that of Venice and 
Genoa, it became the most flourishing of Europe, was in 1364, at the time of 
the Hanseatic League, which comprised 60 towns on the Rhine, the German 
Ocean, and Baltic Sea. They were so powerful as to equip, on one occasion, a 
fleet of 248 ships, with 12,000 troops. They conquered Denmark and Sweden, 
forced France to stop its trade with England, and made England purchase peace 
at the price of a tribute. 

After the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope and America, and in conse- 
quence of the ravages of the 30 years' war, German commerce died away ; and 
it is but just beginning to assume greater importance. 

Down to the time of the French Revolution, the German Empire consisted 
of more than 300 distinct states, greater or smaller, which were divided into 
Ten Circles : — 1. Austria. 2. Burgundy (including Belgium, Luxemburg, 
Limburg, &c, belonging to Austria). 3. Westphalia. 4. Electoral Rhine, 
including the ecclesiastical principalities of Mayence, Treves, and Cologne, and 
the Palatinate. 5. Upper Rhine, chiefly the territory of the Landgrave of 
Hesse Cassel. 6. Swabia, the larger part made up of the domains of the 
Duke of Wiirtemberg and the Margrave of Baden. 7. Bavaria. 8. Fran- 
conia, including the bishoprics of Bamberg and WUrzburg, the principalities 
of Baireuth and Ansbach, the free city of Nuremburg, &c. 9. Lower Saxony, 
including Magdeburg, Brunswick, Mecklenburg, Holstein, &c. 10. Upper 
Saxony, or Pomerania, Brandenburg, Anhalt, Saxony (Electoral and Ducal), &c. 

The German Confederation now comprises 38 independent states : — One 
Empire — Austria, with a population of 12 millions (but 37 millions if we 
include the provinces which are not German). Five Kingdoms — Prussia, 
with 11 J millions (and 3f millions not Germans) ; Bavaria, with 4^ millions ; 
Saxony, Hanover, "Wiirtemberg, each If million. Seventeen Duchies and Grand 
Duchies — Baden, 2 Hessen, Holstein, Luxemburg, 4 Saxon Duchies, Bruns- 
wick, 2 Mecklenburgs, Oldenburg, Naussau, 3 Anhalts. Eleven Principalities — 
2 Schwarzburgs, 2 Hohenzollern, Liechtenstein, 2 Reuss, 2 Lippe, Waldeck, 
Homburg. Four Free Towns — Frankfurt-on-the-Maine, Liibeck, Bremen, and 
Hamburg. 

The Army of the Confederation is, in peace, about 300,000 men ; of whom 
40,000 are cavalry. 

The finest forests are in the centre : in Franconia, Hesse, Westphalia ; near 
the Rhine they are rarer. Enclosed countries are chiefly in the N., as in Hol- 
stein, Mecklenburg, &c, and near the Alps. Gentlemen's country seats are 
confined to a few districts, of which the favourite ones seem to be — the Rhein- 
gau — the environs of Constance — Holstein — Mecklenburg and Pomerania — 



Germany. 39. succinct account of Germany. 211 

Silesia, western part — and, of course, the neighbourhood of some of the towns. 
Among the finest are — Muskau, Lusatia ; Pommersfelden, Franconia (Count 
Schonbom) ; Johannisberg, Nassau ; Konigswart, Bohemia (Prince Metternich) ; 
Heiligenberg, Baden (Prince Furstenberg) ; Eisgrub, Moravia (Prince Liechten- 
stein) ; Waldleiningen, Osenwald (Prince Leiningen) ; Heubach, on the Maine 
(Prince Lowenstein). 

B. History.— The German nations were never conquered by the Eomans : 
at the grand migration they, on the contrary, broke down the Roman empire, 
and prevailed in Italy, Spain, France, and England. 

The Germanic Empire, founded by Charlemagne, a.d. 800, was dissolved under 
Francis II., who, in 1806, exchanged the title of Emperor of Germany for that 
of Emperor of Austria, confining himself to his hereditary dominions — Austria, 
Bohemia, Hungary, &c. 

In the olden time the Germanic Empire was a league of barons, counts, and 
dukes. Seven of the most powerful (nine in later times) bore the titles of Electors, 
from their privilege to elect the Emperor. The Electors were — the Archbishops 
of Mayence (the Archbishop and Archchancellor of the Empire), Treves, and 
Cologne ; the Palatine of the Rhine, Arch-steward of the Empire ; the Margrave 
of Brandenburg, Arch- chamberlain ; the Duke of Saxony, Arch-marshal ; and 
the King of Bohemia, Arch-cupbearer : to these were afterwards added Bavaria 
(1623) and Hanover (1692). At first those nobles held their dominions 
merely as vassals of the Empire ; in course of time they kept them by inheritance. 
Nearly the same occurred with the title and office of Emperor (although the form 
of election was observed to the last) ; and it continued, almost uninterruptedly, in 
the Habsburg family, longer than in any other, from 1273 to 1806. 

After the extinction of the line of Charlemagne the Emperors were chosen 
from the Saxons (in 919, Henry I. and Otho I.) ; from the Franks or Salians 
(in 1039, Henry III.) ; from the Suabians or Hohenstaufen (in 1152, Frederick 
I. and II.) ; from the Austrians or Habsburgs (in 1273, Rudolph L, Maximilian 
I., Charles V., and Joseph II.) ; of whom, those named are the most distin- 
guished. The long line of 50 Emperors exhibits not one tyrant, nor did any one 
of them fall by the fury of the people. The Empire was by far the most powerful 
state in Europe, extending its sway over the Netherlands, over a great part of 
the eastern provinces of France, over Bohemia, Hungary, and Italy. This 
mighty state, which had existed paramount in Europe longer than any in ancient 
or modern times, in spite of the dangerous system of elected instead of hereditary 
Emperors, received its death-blow from the discord which followed the Reforma- 
tion. It sickened, undermined through foreign jealousy*; till, divided as it had 
been, it was dissolved under the influence of Napoleon. 

The more powerful princes, who, at the dissolution of the Empire, had with the 
titles of dukes and kings become independent sovereigns, afterwards coalesced 
together to the number of 38, Austria and Prussia at their head, 4 free towns 
at their tail, under the name of the German Confederation. This took place on 
the 8th of June 1815 ; and the princes had, by their ambassadors, a permanent 
Congress or Diet, at present at Frankfurt-on-the-Maine, in order to concert 
measures for the welfare or defence of their joint Fatherland. Germany, with 
the dependencies of Austria and Prussia, presenting the mass of 60 millions of 
people, in the heart of the Continent, might, if well united, always command the 
first position in the affairs of Europe. 

The Constitution of Germany of 1815 may be called an Act of Confederation, 
by which the princes pledged themselves to maintain each other in independence : 
and by the 13th article they promised their people to re-establish, or to consti- 
tute, legislative chambers ! 

Law. — By the most ancient Germanic law, there existed a kind of parliament 
(" the Mayfelder"), trial by jury, and a public administration of justice. The 
Roman law has supplanted the Germanic, and is now the basis of the administra- 



212 39. SUCCINCT ACCOUNT OF GERMANY. Sect. III. 

tion of justice ^-in Prussia, with important improvements by Frederick II. In 
the Rhenish provinces of Prussia, Hesse, Bavaria, on the left bank of the Rhine, 
the Code Napoleon, with open courts and trial by jury, is still in force, and rooted 
in the attachment of the people. The same Code has partly been adopted by 
some of the southern states. 

Education. — The Germans natter themselves that scientific education is more 
universally diffused amongst them than anywhere elre. They possess 23 Uni- 
versities ; scarcely a town of some odd thousand inhabitants is without a lycseum, 
where, besides the ancient, the modern languages, history, geography, mathe- 
matics, &c, are taught. The people are actually obliged to send their children to 
school up to a certain age. The national education and medical affairs are not 
left to chance or free trade, but are everywhere placed under the care of an 
especial minister of state. Prussia here takes the lead again. 

The system of the German Universities is radically bad. The professors are 
not placed in a state of independence, and must court popularity by advocating 
political opinions which may make them popular among their pupils. They too 
often become bad politicians, and few of them possess even the groundwork for 
the career of men of the world — common sense. Their pupils take advantage of 
their release from home-influence to commit all sorts of childish extravagances. 
Oxford and Cambridge have many detractors — at least the members of our uni- 
versities, on the whole, are gentlemen, and will well support (with all the faults 
that can be alleged against them) a comparison with German students. They 
delight neither in swilling beer, wearing jack boots and goat's beard, nor in 
taking part with the mob in revolutionary riots, bad imitatations of the Faubourg 
St. Antoine — excesses which would be properly coerced by the exercise of the 
ferule. 

Character of the Germans. — Tacitus, even in his time, praises them for their 
bravery, good, faith, good nature, and chastity. Their bonhomie has been 
ridiculed by the French, perhaps from their too great simplicity or modesty of 
deportment, and the negligence they are apt to show to externals. The Southern 
Germans are perhaps more guilty of this than the Northern, but then they pos- 
sess more cheerfulness, and hilarity too, than the latter. They are sober, 
religious without austerity or show, moral and generous, and of persevering 
industry and steadiness. "With them the most rigid economy must be and is 
observed, as, by the old Germanic law of inheritance, property is equally dis- 
tributed amongst the children. 

The translator of Schiller's " Song of the Bell," a beautiful picture of German 
life, lays particular stress upon — " The serious character of a people who begin 
the common business of every-day life with prayer, who attach importance 
as well to the manner of performing an action as to the action itself, — the 
custom of travelling, either in their own or in foreign countries, in the interval 
between the completion of their education and their settlement in life, — the 
household manners, where great attention is paid to the minutiae of domestic 
economy." 

Society is very pleasant, the Germans being frank and sociable, and as, from 
the constant divisions of property, there are not such vast differences between 
man and man as elsewhere, most have a little, few too much. Their general 
information, the resources drawn from their passion for reading (about 8000 
books are annually published), their love of music, furnish ample materials for 
rational entertainment. Perhaps an additional charm of domestic life is the 
kindly apostrophe of Du (thou), amongst the members of a family, old friends, 
and schoolfellows ; which endearing term marks the more intimate circle of 
society. 

We conclude with some of the great names in literature and the fine arts. 
Philosophers : Leibnitz, Puffendorf, Kant, Mendelssohn, Jacobi, Herder, 
Fichte, Schelling, Hegel. Astronomers: Copernicus, Kepler, Herschel, 



Germany. 40. peculiarities of German manners. 213 

Olbers, Gauss, Schotter, Littrow. Mathematicians : Euler, Lambert, Vega. 
Historians and Critics: Johannes von Miillcr, Niebuhr, Hecren, Banke, 
Baumer; (in art), Winckelmann, Kugler, Waagen, Hotho, Kinkel. Natu- 
ralists: Haller, C. Gessner, Werner, Klaproth, Blumenbach, Gmelin, Hum- 
boldt, Oken, Mitcherlich, Liebig, Fraunhofer. Lawyers : Hugo, Thibault, 
Savigny. Humanists : F. A. "Wolf, Heyne, Ernesti, Bunkenius, Wytten- 
bach, Hermann, Bockh, Muller, Weleker, Forchammer. Theologians : 
Schleiermacher, Lucke, Nitsch, Olshausen, Neander, Umbreit, Ewald. 

Poetry and Works of Fiction : — 

Klopstock (1748), Lessing, Gessner, Wieland, Gleim, Gellert, Voss, Burger, 
Uz, Holty, Stolberg, Gothe, Schiller, J. P. Eichter, Schlegel, Zschokke, 
Heine, Tieck, Tiedge, Hoffman, Korner, Uhland, Eiickert. 

In Painting, Germany maintains a very respectable position with the following 
name s — 

laicas Kranach (1472), Schoreel, A. Diirer, Holbein, Hemling, Eubens, 
Lingelbach, Ostade, Kraft, Mengs ; and the living artists, Overbeck, Eott- 
man, Cornelius, Hess (two), Schnorr, Kriiger, Bendemann, Lessing, Hilde- 
brand, Kaulbach, Steinle, Magnus. 

Sculptors are — 

P. Vischer (1500), Dannecker, Eauch, Tieck, Schaller, Schwanthaler, and 

Kiss. 

As for Music, Germany claims the palm for — 

the family Bach, Handel, Gluck, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Winter, the 
Eombergs, Fesca, Weigl, Weber, Hummel, Eies, Mendelssohn, Meyerbeer, 
Spohr, Marschner, Lindpaintner, Mayseder, Strauss. 

German Inventions are — 
Gunpowder, by Berthold Schwartz at Freiburg, 1348. 
Watches by Heele, at Nurnberg, 1510. 
The air-pump, by Guericke at Magdeburg, 1650. 
Lithography, by Senefelder, at Munich, 1800. 
Steam-press, by Konig, 1812. 

The two greatest blessings Germany conferred upon the rest of Europe are— 
The Art of Printing, by Gutemberg, at Mentz, 1436 ; 
The Reformation, by Luther, at Wittenberg, 1517. — A. J. n. 

For a history of the countries upon the Ehine under the Eomans, and during 
the middle ages, see Vogt, Eheinische Geschichten und Sagen, 3 vols. 8vo. 
Frankfurt-a-M. 1817. 



40. SOME PECULIARITIES OF GERMAN MANNERS. 

A fondness for titles, orders, and high-sounding forms of address, which was 
ever the characteristic of the Germans, though perhaps less intense than formerly, 
has by no means yet disappeared. The German is scarcely happy until he can 
hang a little bit of striped riband from his button-hole, and every effort of in- 
terest and exertion is made to increase the number of them, and of the crosses 
and stars which dangle from them. This is the eagerly coveted object of every 
placeman. " There are two things," says the Eckensteher, " that a Beamte cannot 
avoid — Death, and the third class of the Red Eagle." 

At one of the diplomatic meetings during the Congress at Vienna, when all 
the members were assembled in the hall of conference, a foreign envoy ap- 
proached Prince Metternich, and begged him to point out Lord Castlereagh. 



214 40. PECULIAEITIES OF GERMAN" MANNERS. Sect. III. 

The Prince indicated to him the English minister, who wore neither star nor 
uniform. "Comment?" said the doubting diplomatic; "iln'a pas de decora- 
tion?" — " Ma foi," replied Prince Metternich, " c'est bien distingue." 

One habit of German society, which cannot fail sometimes to occasion a smile 
to an Englishman, though it costs him some trouble to acquire it, is the necessity 
of addressing everybody, whether male or female, not by their own name, but 
by the titles of the office which they hold. 

To accost a gentleman, as is usxial in England, with Sir (Mein Herr), if 
not considered among the Germans themselves as an actual insult, is at least not 
complimentary ; it is requisite to find out his office or profession. Madame and 
Mademoiselle, addressed to German ladies, are equally terms of inferiority. The 
commonest title to which everybody aspires is that of Councillor (Rath), which 
is modified and extended by various affixes and prefixes : there is a rath for every 
profession : an architect is a Baurath ; an advocate a Justizrath, &c. &c. ; and a 
person with no profession at all contrives to be made a Hofrath (court councillor), 
a very unmeaning title, which is generally borne by persons who were never in 
a situation to give advice to the court. The dignity of Staatsrath (privy 
councillor) is given to members of the adm i nistration ; some real dignity is at- 
tached to it, and the persons bearing it are further addressed by the title of 
excellency. The title Professor is much abused, as it is certainly appropriated 
by many persons who have no real claim to it by their learning or office. It is 
better, in conversing with a German, to give a person a rank greater than he is 
entitled to than to fall beneath the mark. Geheimrath, for example, is higher 
than Professor. It is upon this principle that an Englishman is sometimes ad- 
dressed by the common people, to his great surprise, as Herr Graf (Mr. Count), 
and often as Euer Gnaden (Your Grace). 

" Every man who holds any public office, should it be merely that of an under 
clerk, with a paltry salary of 40Z. a year, must be gratified by hearing his title, 
not his name. Even absent persons, when spoken of, are generally designated 
by their official titles, however humble and unmeaning they may be. The ladies 
are not behind in asserting their claims to honorary appellations. All over Ger- 
many a wife insists upon taking the title of her husband, with a feminine termi- 
nation. There is Madame general-ess, Madame privy councillor-ess, Madame 
daybook-keeper-ess, and a hundred others." — Russel. 

Read and see Kotzebue's amusing ridicule of this, in his Comedy called Die 
Deutschen Kleinstadter. 

These titles sometimes extend to an almost unpronounceable length; only 
think, for instance, of addressing a lady as Frau Oberconsistorialdirectorin (Mrs. 
Directress of the TJpper Consistory Court) . This may be avoided, however, by 
substituting the words Gnadige Erau (Gracious Madame) in addressing a lady. 
It must at the same time be observed, that this fondness for titles, and especially 
for the prefix von (of, equivalent to the French de, and originally denoting the pos- 
sessor of an estate), is, to a certain extent, a vulgarity from which the upper classes 
of German society are free. The rulers of Germany take advantage of the 
national vanity, and lay those upon whom they confer the rank under obligation ; 
while they, at the same time, levy a tax upon the dignity proportionate to its eleva- 
tion ; thus a mere Hofrath pays from 30 to 40 dollars annually, and the higher 
dignities a more considerable sum. If, however, the title is acquired by merit, no 
tax is paid, but merely a contribution to a fund for the widows and children of 
the class. 

Certain forms and titles are also prefixed on the address of a letter : thus a 
Count of the high nobility and ancient empire must be addressed Erlaucht (Illus- 
trious) ; a Count of the lesser noblesse, Hochgeborener Herr (High-bom Sir) ; 
a baron and a minister, even though not of a noble birth, is called Hochwohl- 
geboren ; a merchant or roturier must content himself with being termed "Wohl- 
(well)geboren ; while Hochedel (high noble) is ironically applied to tradesmen. 



Germany. 40. peculiarities of German manners. 215 

" In one respect, in Germany, I think politeness is carried too far — I mean in 
the perpetual act of pulling off the hat. Speaking ludicrously of it, it really be- 
comes expensive, for, with a man who has a large acquaintance in any public 
place, his hat is never two minutes at rest." — Nimrod's Letters from Holstein. 

A curious instance of the extent to which this practice of bowing is carried 
occurred to the writer in a small provincial town in the S. of Germany. At 
the entrance of the public promenade in the Grande Place he observed notices 
painted on boards, which at first he imagined to contain some police regulations, 
or important order of the magistracy of the town ; upon perusal, however, it 
proved to be an ordonnance to this effect : — " For the convenience of promenaders, 
it is particularly requested that the troublesome custom of saluting by taking off 
the hat should here be dispensed with." It is not to friends alone that it is 
necessary to doff the hat, for, if the friend with whom you are walking meets an 
acquaintance to whom he takes off his hat, you must do the same, even though 
you never saw him before. 

German civility, however, does not consist in outward forms alone, and a tra- 
veller will do well to conform, as soon as possible, to the manners of the country, 
even down to the mode of salutation, troublesome as it is. If he continue unbend- 
ing, he will be guilty of rudeness : and on entering any public office, even the 
office of the schnellposts, the underlings of the place, down to the book-keeper, 
will require him to take off his hat, if he does it not of his own accord. An Eng- 
lish traveller repaired to the police-office at Berlin to have his passport signed, 
and, having waited half an hour, said to the secretary to whom he had delivered 
it, " Sir, I think you have forgotten my passport." " Sir," replied the man of 
office, " I think you have forgotten your hat !" 

In thus recommending to travellers the imitation of certain German customs, it 
is not meant, be it observed, to insist on the practice prevalent among the German 
men of saluting their male friends with a kiss on each side of the cheek. It is not 
a little amusing to observe this, with us feminine, mode of greeting, exchanged 
between two whiskered and mustachioed giants of the age of 50 or 60. 

" Smoking is a most important branch of the business of life of almost every 
German of every condition ; and to say the truth, I am rather inclined to think it 
a good thing for the common people. If they did not smoke, they would probably 
drink more." — Lord Dudley. Universal as is the practice of smoking throughout 
Germany, it is entirely prohibited by the police in the streets of the great capitals ;. 
and persons ignorant of this regulation, or wilfully infringing it, are often 
stopped by the sentinels on duty, and compelled to remove the pipe or cigar from 
their mouths. 

Public Gardens and Taverns. — The outskirts of every German town abound in 
gardens and houses of public recreation, whither the inhabitants, not merely 
of the lower orders, but of the most respectable classes also, repair on summer 
afternoons, and especially on Sunday, to breathe the fresh air and forget the 
cares of business in the enjoyment of coffee, ices, beer, and the never-absent 
pipe. A band of excellent music is not wanting ; indeed it forms the great 
attraction, and is usually advertised in the papers for a day or two beforehand ; 
it performs for the entertainment of high and low, and the exciting tones of 
the waltz seldom fail to originate a dance, in which the citizens' wives and 
daughters, with their husbands and sweethearts, whirl round for hours in the 
dizzy maze. 

It is true the time when these places are most frequented, and when the music 
and dancing are kept up with the greatest spirit, is the Sunday afternoon, which 
may, perhaps, shock the feelings of an English or Scotch man, accustomed to the 
rigorous Sabbath-keeping of his own country. A dispassionate examination, 
however, of the two systems, and of the effects produced by each, will probably 
induce him to pause before he gives unqualified approbation and preference to 
that of his own country. 



216 40. PECULIARITIES OF GERMAN MANNERS. Sect. III. 

These places of amusement do not open till after the hours of morning service 
in the churches, and most of the persons who resort to them have previously 
attended a church. A large portion are tradesmen who have been shut up in their 
shops, and artisans who have been working hard, all the week. They come in 
their best clothes, and accompanied by wives and children, who, be it observed, 
are always made parties in these amusements ; they content themselves with 
coffee, beer, or wine, in moderate quantities ; spirits are never seen, and instances 
of noisy turbulence and drunkenness are almost unknown on these occasions. 
Such recreation, even with the mirthful exercise of dancing superadded, is surely 
harmless in comparison with the solitary orgies of the pot-house and gin-shop, to 
which the same class of persons but too often devote their Sundays in our country, 
squandering in loathsome intemperance the earnings of the week, which ought to 
be devoted to the wants of the starving and neglected wife and family, who are 
left behind in their close and miserable home. 

A certain intercourse and intermixture, also, is kept up between the upper and 
lower classes at these meetings, which cannot fail to have an advantageous influ- 
ence in the relation between the different members of German society. The 
artisan does not jostle his superiors, or strive to imitate their dress and appear- 
ance, nor is he looked down upon as an intruder by them. All classes, high and 
low, mix together on an equal footing, and without restraint. The fact is, in 
Germany, perhaps more than in any other country, not only the privileges of 
nobility, but of- all grades, are so clearly understood and kept distinct, that all 
parties, however intimate they may seem to be in public, know the exact bound- 
aries of their position [in society, and act accordingly ; hence the noble feels at 
ease, and is conscious that his urbanity will not be abused ; and the rest are 
influenced by a similar feeling. 

Kirmes. — " The Germans are not ashamed of being pleased with trifles, nor of 
being pleased in very humble company ; they think only whether they enjoy ; and 
if their enjoyment costs little money and little trouble so much the better. They 
love their old customs and traditional festivals much better than we do, and keep 
to them more faithfully. Formerly, in England, many days were days not only 
of religious observance, but of festivity for the people ; and each had its appro- 
priate shows and pastimes : but these are nearly all forgotten ; and the few which 
are remembered are turned into days of importunate begging, or coarse riot ; and 
the pleasures are such as people of refinement and taste can take no share in, nor 
love to witness : and thus they sink lower and lower, and the chasm between 
rich and poor grows wider and wider, for want of some common enjoyment to 
which the high might give order and refinement, and the low cordiality and sim- 
plicity : and such an enjoyment is Kirmes." 

"A yearly festival is held in every village, when the poor people, who work 
hard all the year, meet together as on a Sunday, go to church together in their 
gayest clothes, and then make merry and enjoy themselves. It was, originally, 
the anniversary of the day on which the village church was consecrated ; — [in 
some parts of Germany it is called Kirchweihe, the dedication of the church ;] 
— but as it was found that these anniversaries often fell at inconvenient times for 
the country people, they are, by common consent, held in autumn, just after the 
vintage. At this joyous season the country people are in high spirits, and have 
more leisure and rather fuller purses than usual, and are well disposed to rejoice 
together in the blessing of their harvest. Every morning gay parties walk about 
on those beautiful hills, and those who can afford it dine at the inns, at eveiy one 
of which is an excellent table-d'hote at 1 o'clock; and after a merry dinner and 
a cup of coffee they adjourn to the ball-room. The "Kirmes at considerable vil- 
lages draws people from all the towns and villages for miles and miles round ; 
the tables- d'hote, as well as the balls, are of several degrees, so that even the 
poorest peasants may sit down to a good and social dinner adapted to their humble 
means. In the small villages there is most likely only one inn, and consequently only 



Germany. 40. peculiarities of German manners. 217 

one table-d'hote ; but almost all have more than one ball-room, even though the 
village consists but of a few poor cottages. This ball-room is often a large shed 
without windows, but always with an excellent floor, and a little orchestra at one 
end : and this, when lighted up, and filled with happy faces, and with such a 
company of musicians as many a fashionable assembly in England cannot boast, 
is no despicable scene of festivity." 

*.* * * * * * * 

" I have nothing to tell you about the beauty and grace [of the rustic dancers], 
except that they had none ; they had, however, cheerfulness and perfect absence 
of affectation, which are always agreeable, The kind and familiar deportment 
of their superiors inspires them with such confidence that they never seem to 
conceive that their innocent pleasures can excite disgust or ridicule ; and you 
may be sure they take care not to do anything which may drive away those who 
share in their amusements. * * * The scene of the ball-room was 
one of hearty enjoyment ; but I saw not the slightest approach to rudeness, 
indecorum, or drunkenness ; it was the merriment of people who feel that others 
have a good opinion of them, and an interest in their comfort," — A Letter from 
Bonn. 

The Turnpikeman, — A characteristic feature of the German character is the love 
of warmth in their clothes and habitations, and an unwillingness to expose them- 
selves to the air. This effeminacy prevails even among the lower orders, who 
seem to breathe with reluctance when removed from the favourite atmosphere of 
their stoves, their tobacco-smoke, and the fumes of their beer, It is shown in 
the great unwillingness which an Englishman experiences, on the part of his 
fellow-passengers in the cabins of steamers, and in public coaches, to allow a 
window to be open, even in warm weather ; but it is most characteristically 
exhibited in an ingenious contrivance by which the turnpike-keeper avoids the 
necessity of leaving his chimney-corner, or exposing more than the extremity of 
his nose to the cold. A scene like the following occurs at the barriere in some 
parts of Germany : — " On the horses stopping, which they seemed most loyally 
to do of their own accord, the person whose office it was to collect this road- 
money, or chaussee-geld, in process of time appeared at a window with a heavy 
pipe hanging in his mouth, and in his hand an immense long stick, to the end of 
which there was affixed a small box containing a ticket, in exchange for which 
I silently dropped my money into this till. Not a word was spoken, but, with 
the gravity of an angler, the man having drawn in his rod, a whiff of tobacco was 
vomited from his mouth, and then the window, like the transaction — closed." — 
Bubbles from the Brunnen. 

Travelling Journeymen or ffandwerks-Burschen. — No one can travel along any 
of the great roads in Germany without meeting, almost at every mile, a number 
of young men journeying on foot. The characteristics of the class are, a pipe in 
the mouth without fail, and generally a stick in the hand, with an enormous 
knapsack on the back, from the sides of which a pair of boots are usually seen to 
project. They are often respectably dressed, wearing a blouse (smockfrock), and 
having their hats carefully covered with an oil-skin, so that the traveller is sur- 
prised when, as his carriage comes in sight, they take off their hats, and com- 
mence begging for alms. These are wandering journeymen; they are often not 
undeserving objects of charity; and a German will generally put a few kreutzers 
or groschen in the cap which is held out, to help the owner on his way. 

By an ancient regulation prevailing very generally throughout Germany and 
Switzerland, no apprentice can obtain his freedom and become a master until he 
has passed a certain number of years in travelling, and in exercising his calling 
in foreign parts. The intention of this is, that he should gain experience in his 

[n. g.] l 



218 41. GERMAN WATERING-PLACES. Sect. III. 

craft, and learn the methods practised in other countries besides his own, as well 
as some knowledge of the world. 

When he first sets out he receives from the corporation or trade to which he 
belongs a book in which he keeps a diary of his wanderings (wanderbuch), and 
in which those from whom he may receive employment also write certificates of 
good and bad conduct. As soon as the novice reaches a place where he proposes 
to stop, he applies to the members of his own trade, and shows his credentials. 
If work is to be had, he takes up his residence till it is finished ; if not, he is pro- 
vided with clean straw and a roof to shelter him, with now and then the scanty 
pittance of a kreutzer or two from the funds of the guild, and next morning must 
trudge forward on his way to some other place where his services may be wanted. 
It will easily be understood that if work is scarce, and the apprentice have nothing 
of his own, he must often be reduced to great straits, and compelled to have 
recourse to the charity of the more wealthy : fechten, literally to fight, struggle, 
is with the journeymen the slang phrase for begging. (See Gothe's Wilhelm 
Meister.) 

Though there are many inducements to idleness in this system, it is not sur- 
prising that it produces an intelligent set of tradesmen. The writer of this has 
frequently conversed with common shoemakers and bakers, speaking 3 or 4 dif- 
ferent languages, well informed as to the state of most of the countries of Europe, 
and possessing a general fund of knowledge far superior to what is found in per- 
sons of the same class in England. 

When the period of their wanderings (wanderschaft) is expired, the apprentice 
returns home, produces a specimen of his skill, and, if it is approved of, receives 
his freedom, and is allowed to set up for himself. 

41. GERMAN WATERING-PLACES. 

With the Germans an excursion to a watering-place in the summer is essential 
to existence, and the necessity of such a visit is confined to no one class in par- 
ticular, but pervades all, from emperors and princes down to tradesmen and citi- 
zens' wives. The number of bathing-places and mineral springs in Germany 
alone now amounts to several hundred : and every year adds to the list names 
which, though seldom heard in England, are not without their little sets and 
coteries. The royal and imperial guests repair to them not merely to get rid of 
the trammels and pomp of sovereignty, though it is universally the case that they 
move about with no more show than private individuals, but they also seek such 
occasions for holding private congresses, for forming secret treaties, alliances, 
&c. ; family arrangements and matrimonial connections are also not unfrequently 
there concocted. The minister repairs thither to refresh himself from the toils of 
office, but usually brings his portfolio in his travelling carriage, nor does he 
altogether even here bid adieu to intrigue and politics. The invalid comes to 
recruit his strength — the debauchee to wash himself inside and out, and string 
his nerves for a fresh campaign of dissipation — the shopkeeper and the merchant 
come to spend their money and gaze on their betters — and the sharper and black- 
leg, who swarm at all the baths, to enrich themselves at the gaming-tables at the 
expense of their fellow guests. 

The watering-places in Germany seem naturally grouped according to the vol- 
canic soil or other peculiarities of the mountain chains near which most of them 
are situate. The principal groups are the following : — 

A. The Cis-Bhenane Baths, round the Eifel, and its cognate hills the Ardennes, 
viz. — 1. Aix-la-Chapelle, or Aachen; 2. Burtscheid, or Borcette; 3. Bertrich, 
near the Moselle ; 4. Kreutznach, on the Nahe. 

Spa, the German Spa par excellence, is hardly to be counted, as it is now no 
longer in Germany. 



Germany. 41. German watering-places. 219 

B. The Baths of the Taunus, round which they circle in Nassau and 
Hesse, viz. — 5. Ems; 6. Schwalbach; 7. Schlangenbad ; 8. Wiesbaden; 9. 
Weilbach; 10. Soden ; 11. Selters Fachingen (waters); 12. Homburg; 13. 
Nauheim; 14. "Wilhelmsbad. 

C. The Baths of Franconia, at the foot of the Rhongebirge, viz. — 15. Briick- 
enau; 16. Kissingen; 17. Booklet. 

D. The Baths of the Black Forest, viz.— 18. Baden-Baden; 19. Wildbad; 20. 
Rippoldsau; 21. Cannstadt. 

E. The Baths of Bohemia, viz. — 22. Carlsbad; 23. Marienbad, — Liebewerda ; 
24. Franzensbad, or Eger ; 25. Teplitz. 

F. The Baths of Silesia, viz. — 26. Charlottenbrunn ; 27. Warnbrunn ; 28. 
Landeck, county of Glatz ; 29. Beinerz, county of Glatz. (Grafenberg-Wasser- 
kur ? Austrian Silesia.) 

G. The Baths of the Alps, viz. — 30. Gastein; 31. Ischl; 32. Baden, near 
Vienna ; 33. Heilbrunn, Bavaria ; 34. Kreuth, Bavaria. 

H. The Baths of Westphalia and Central Germany, viz. — 35. Driburg ; 36. 
Pyrmont; 37. Eilsen ; 38. Hof-Geismar; 39. Neundorf; 40. Rehburg ; 41. 
Alexisbad. 

I. Sea Baths, viz. — 42. Norderney, Wangeroog, and Heligoland; 43. Dobbe- 
ran ; 44. Travemiinde ; 45. Putbus ; 46. Swinemunde. 

Carlsbad, Teplitz, and Briickenau are the resort of emperors and kings ; Baden 
and Ems of grand dukes, princes, and high nobility. Wiesbaden is a sort of 
Margate, whither the overflowing population of Frankfurt repairs on Sunday 
afternoon ; whilst other baths, like Schlangenbad, Kissingen, are frequented by 
those whose business is to be cured, and who are strenuously endeavouring, by 
a few weeks of abstinence and exercise, to relieve themselves from the effects of 
over eating and drinking. 

About the end of May the annual migration begins ; in June the whole re- 
spectable population of Germany may be said to be in motion ; July is usually 
the height of the season ; the baths are then crammed, and it is necessary to be- 
speak accommodation beforehand. There is but little fluctuation till the end of 
August ; then the tide of visitors begins to ebb ; but if September be fine, many 
linger behind ; and a few remain till the end of October, unless a succession of 
rainy weather put them to flight earlier. 

" The effect of this natural passion for periodical bathing is, that throughout 
Germany the Kurzeit (curing-time — season) of the baths, about three months in 
the summer, forms that sort of general break up, to use a familar phrase, in the 
system of town life, which the rising of Parliament and the pursuit of partridges 
and pheasants effects in the season of the British capital. The capitals of the 
princes are deserted — court entertainments cease — the ambassadors and general 
officers obtain leave of absence from their posts — ' the weary statesman ' quits his 
bureau, and the merchant his counting-house— and the cumbrous retinue of the 
princes and their courts are put in motion about the month of July for some favour- 
ite scene of picturesque beauty — where nature has placed her fountains of health 
amidst the wildest and most beautiful features of landscape — as if to mark out the 
spot at once for the solace and invigoration of the sick and debilitated, and the 
recreation and indulgence of the sons of pleasure and of toil. During three 
months all that is distinguished in Germany is busied in the pursuit of health and 
dissipation at Teplitz, Carlsbad, Baden, Pyrmont, Wiesbaden, Ems, Schwal- 
bach, and Aix-la-Chapelle. Festivity and forgetfulness of care are the general 
order of the day. State and ceremony, and titled hauteur, are in a great degree 
thrown aside in the easy intercourse of the bathing-place ; all ranks meet at the 
balls, the concerts, the saloons, and the wells. The prince and the tradesman lay 
down their stakes side by side at the Bouge-et-Noir table. A princess does not 
disdain a donkey-ride on the mountains, and a sovereign duke may be seen at the 

L 2 



220 41. GERMAN WATERING-PLACES. Sect. III. 

tablc-d'hote side by side with a merchant or subaltern officer. All the machinery 
of amusement is to be found here — all the artists and artificers that contribute to 
the enjoyments and the follies of indulgence — actors from Vienna — gaming-table 
keepers and cooks from Paris — money-lenders from Frankfurt — singers from Ber- 
lin — shopkeepers, voituriers, pastry-cooks, mountebanks, dancing-masters, donkey- 
lenders, blacklegs, mistresses, lacqueys — all bustling and contriving in their seve- 
ral vocations to reap the short harvest of profit which the season affords. The 
scene of bustling and vivacity, occasioned by the concentration of several thou- 
sands of gay strangers, the greater part of some style and consideration, with all 
the proportionate cortege of accessories and dependents, in a little village of 
500 inhabitants, may be easily imagined — the arrivals, the equipages, the 
varied costumes and physiognomies of different nations — the uniforms, the deco- 
rations, the crowded promenades, the tables, the balls, the fetes champetres, the 
theatres, the concerts, and the effect of all this revelling and exuberant dissipa- 
tion, infinitely heightened by the scene being laid in some deep sylvan valley, 
where the silence and serene beauty of nature contrast strongly with the artificial 
enjoyments and agitating pursuits of the busy denizens. Perhaps you will think 
that the mere circumstance of nature having so lavishly bestowed on the Ger- 
mans these Hygeian fountains, with their picturesque scenes, is of itself a suffi- 
cient cause to account for the fondness with which they are frequented. But 
other causes will be probably found. The pleasures of a country life are as yet 
almost unknown in Germany ; those mingled pleasures of enjoyment of scenery 
and rural beauties, domestic tranquillity and fire-side comforts, which so many of 
our own poets have enthusiastically described, and which every Englishman 
relishes. With the exception of the chateaux of a few nobles, and the villas near 
a few mercantile towns, a gentleman's country house is hardly to be seen in Ger- 
many. The picturesque scenes, which are so abundant, never appear habited or 
habitable. Nature has here always a character of wildness and loneliness. The 
Germans likewise have no one great capital, possessing all those attractions 
which a metropolis affords. The provincial townsman has no Paris or London 
to fly to for amusement or change of scene. The summer season at the baths is 
thus the great object of desire, the rendezvous of friends, the indulgence to the 
young, and the relaxation of the busy and the care-worn. 

" Gaiety has a more decided character at a German watering-place — pleasure 
is more the avowed business of everybody ; and if ennui may be the motive of as 
many visits to Aix-la-Chapelle as to similar places in Great Britain, the remedy 
here appears more succesful ; for you can rarely read in a single countenance, as 
you often may in the libraries of Brighton or Cheltenham, the inveterate disease 
of which persons come to be cured. The system of the day commences with a 
bath taken before breakfast. Afterwards follow excursions in the environs, walks 
in the gardens, visits to the cafe's and billiard-rooms, and, above all, the pleasures 
of the Bedoubt, or Grand Saloon, which occupy the gay world till dinner, 2 or 3. 
This last-mentioned place of rendezvous is the greatest centre of attraction ; and, 
with the exception of much more gaiety, more avowed vice, and the absence of all 
pretence at rational resources, acts the part of the library at an English watering- 
place. The Bedoubt is a large handsome building, the ground-floor open, with a 
colonnade in front, appropriated to prints, toy-shops, &c. After depositing your 
hat and stick with the gendarmes at the door, you enter the grand saloon — in- 
variably a splendid room. On one side a crowd of motley but well-dressed and 
gay -looking persons (I regret to say of both sexes) are pressing over each other's 
heads, round large banks of Bouge et Noir. An anxious silence reigns, only 
interrupted by the rattling of the roulette, the jingling of the Napoleons and 
francs, and the titters and jokes of the few whose speculations are a matter 
of mere frolic. The play is frequently very high, but the bank does not refuse 
the stake of a solitary franc. Pretty interesting women were putting down their 
Napoleons, and seeing them swept away, or drawing them in doubled, with a sang 



Germany. 41. watering-places, gaming-houses. 221 

frold which proved that they were no novices in that employment." — Autumn 
near the Rhine. 

These German assemhly-rooms are usually the property of the sovereign of the 
state in whose territory the watering-place is situated, and the gaming-houses are 
tolerated by him, upon the principle that, as it is almost impossible to prevent the 
scandal altogether, it is better to control it by taking such establishments under 
his own surveillance, and to render them beneficial to the country by levying a 
high tax on them, than to prohibit them entirely. The Licensed Gaming-houses 
at the German watering-places are a disgrace and shame to the minor princes, 
who not only tolerate them, but derive revenue from granting the permis- 
sion, to the destruction of morality and honesty among their own subjects, as well 
as among thousands of strangers. The Austrian and Prussian governments are a 
noble exception, prohibiting all gaming within their dominions. English travel- 
lers should be placed especially on their guard against the sharpers who haunt 
the continental watering-places. The chances of being robbed are much greater 
than was formerly the case in Paris, as none of the precautionary measures are 
taken to prevent cheating in Germany. The princes who tolerate such a system 
must be content to bear the reproach of avarice and cupidity. In 1834 one com- 
pany, consisting principally of Frenchmen ejected from Paris since the suppression 
of public gaming there, had taken upon speculation, for a term of years, the Be- 
doutes and rooms at "Wiesbaden, Ems, and Baden-Baden, furnishing and manag- 
ing at the same time restaurants, theatres, and ball-rooms, and providing music 
upon the public walks. The gaming-tables were understood to be their principal 
source of profit. 

The evening's entertainment concludes with a ball once or twice a week. A 
gentleman may ask any lady to dance, without the formality of being presented to 
her ; but this kind of introduction does not entitle him to approach her as an 
acquaintance on future occasions when he may meet her. 

To be properly enjoyed, a German, like an English watering-place, should be 
visited in company with friends, -and there is little society to be found out of 
your own circle ; so that a solitary traveller, after having gazed about him for 
a day or two, will commonly not hesitate to take flight, in order to escape 
from ennui. 

This work does not pretend to describe the medical properties and sanitary 
powers of the various mineral springs ; those who repair to them with a view of 
taking the waters or the baths should consult their own physician before leaving 
home. It is also prudent and customary to ask the advice of the physician resi- 
dent at the baths as well before commencing a course of waters. 

Physicians' Fees. — " If a patient is attended at a watering-place during the 
whole 4 or 5 weeks of which the ' course ' of bathing and drinking com- 
monly consists, 10 thalers is a sufficient fee for the whole attendance, and is 
usually paid at parting. If the doctor is consulted only once or twice, 1^ to 2 
thalers is the proper fee for each visit." — IT. T. 20 s. gros. is the highest sum 
allowed by the Prussian tariff as a medical fee. 

The mode and extent of using the waters, whether internally or externally, can 
only be regulated by a medical man acquainted with the case and constitution of 
each person ; but there are a few general rules mentioned by Dr. Granville, which 
it will be useful to insert, from their universal application ; the water should be 
drunk on an empty stomach, and a short walk should be taken between each 
draught, but violent exercise is to be avoided. The baths also should never be 
taken after eating, and during bathing a strict attention to diet is advisable. Tea, 
pastry, acids, vegetables, fruit, and cheese should be avoided, and but little should 
be eaten at each meal. Wine, if light, may be sparingly used ; but the beer of 
the country, and Seltzer- water, are preferable beverages. 

Those who travel in a party with the intention of repairing to any fashionable 
watering-place, in the height of the season, should not omit to write beforehand 



222 42. music. Sect. III. 

either to the keeper of some hotel, the bad-meister, or the physician, to secure 
rooms for them, if they wish to avoid the inconvenience of finding, on their 
arrival, that every bed and room in the place are engaged, an occurrence by no 
means unfrequent. 

42. MUSIC. 

" Music naturally makes too large a figure in the expectations of many pleasure- 
travellers to be passed over here ; the more so because what they will find, and 
where they will find it, have not been stated with any completeness, fair com- 
parison, or adequate knowledge of the subject, since the days of Burney ; and he 
wrote at a period when German music had hardly taken its peculiar form and 
colour. 

" The tourist will find an Opera in almost every town ; its prices of admission 
moderate, and its performances on the average very good as regards orchestra 
and chorus. The musical establishments of Berlin, Dresden, Hamburg, Bruns- 
wick, Frankfort, Cassel, and Hanover, are the most eminent among those within 
the range of this volume. Most of the above theatres are court dependencies, 
presided over by composers of some note, and implying life-appointments for the 
principal artists engaged. Hence very mature vocalists are a phenomenon more 
common than engaging. Further, the preference of the general public for 
translated Italian or French musical dramas, and the limited number of classical 
German operas which keep the stage (a dozen at most), — add to this the admitted 
disregard of many among the classical composers for the refinements of vocal 
science, — have destroyed the possibility of a school of singing being formed ; and 
kept that branch of art at a level, the lowness and unrefinement of which will 
strike ears used to Italian and French execution. One or two of the master- 
works of Gluck, Beethoven, Weber, Mozart, and Spohr, however, in most cases, 
form a nominal part of every theatrical repertory. The summer and autumn are 
generally ' the flat seasons ' of Opera in the large towns, — save in cases like the 
Frankfort and Leipzig fairs, where the managers endeavour to secure some 
great attraction to entertain the concourse of guests expected. The traveller, 
however, has always the chance Of encountering some favourite singer or actor on 
1 a starring ' excursion ; or, as they phrase it in Germany, playing gastrollen. It 
was not thought strange in recent years for the fanatico who longed to hear any 
particular opera in the theatrical repertory of a given town to advertise his wishes 
in the local newspaper, — of course in a complimentary fashion, — with a fair 
chance of their being acceded to within a few days. 

" In orchestral music the Germans are generally far in advance of all other 
people. This pleasure too is more easily accessible than in any other country ; — 
it is best to be enjoyed in the late autumn and winter, when the world of artists and 
audiences has come home ' from the baths.' The Symphonic Concerts of Berlin, 
and the subscription concerts at the Gewand Haus of Leipzig, will give the tra- 
veller the ' true reading ' of the works of the great German symphonists, and 
afford him also a chance of hearing the best solo players, home and foreign. They 
are also of a wise brevity, as compared with our more cumbrous and costly enter- 
tainments. The ' high places ' of chamber-music were recently Berlin, Leipzig, 
and Brunswick, each of which towns possessed a resident quartett of stringed 
instrumentalists, possessing very high renown. But all periodical music is more 
or less interrupted by the fine weather, which tempts the world from home. 

" From June till September the tourist has the chance of falling in with some 
celebration or festival, akin to our own provincial ' music meetings,' but different, 
inasmuch as the chorus mainly consists of amateurs. These meetings are, on 
the average, interesting in the music selected, excellent as regards execution from 
the heartiness, zeal, and patience in co-operation which pervade it, and most 
pleasantly social. It is the fault of bad English manners, if any Englishman, 
having claims on the good society of his own country, finds himself ' a stranger 



Germany. 43. German towns, fire-watch. 223 

amongst strangers' on these occasions— a very slight introduction (and of course 
some power of communication) securing him a good-natured welcome. . Those 
who winter in Berlin will of course make an effort to attend the meetings of the 
Sing Academic. This may be called the best and most renowned amateur vocal 
society in Europe, and its members occasionally, for purposes of charity, give 
public performances on a grand scale. Gentlemen, too, will do well to gain 
access to such meetings of the Lieder-tafel societies as may fall in their way. 
These are singing parties of gentlemen only, who execute the part-music of 
German composers with great spirit and energy ; both the music and the exe- 
cution calculated, by their difference of style, especially to interest those who care 
for glees and madrigals at home. 

" The best orchestral mass, probably, now to be heard in Europe, is that 
performed in the cathedral at Cologne. The organs in Dresden, in the Sophien 
Kirche, the Catholic Church, and one or two others, built by the Silbermanns, 
are well worth an effort to hear. 

" Lastly, for those who search less scientifically than the traveller to whom 
the above hints are addressed, most attractive cheap music abounds in Germany. 
Almost every town has its Casino or private subscription club; its pleasure 
garden, and other public resorts, to which every one is admitted, where a good 
band, often of wind-instruments alone, may be heard to play good music to good 
company for a very small price of entrance. , And these unpretending concerts 
(the very absence of pretension of which is an evidence of popular taste, as dis- 
tinct from fashion) are sometimes diversified by very fair quartett singing. For 
the characteristic of German musical execution is, that generally every one 
occupied in its production takes pains in its production because he likes it. In 
most of the above matters the traveller has better chance of gaining available and 
precise information from the landlord of his hotel than in the place where he 
would naturally seek it — at the music-shop. The want of accuracy and back- 
wardness as regards the amusements of the day, to be complained of on the part 
of those managing the latter establishments, will often puzzle and inconvenience 
a prompt and impatient Englishman." — H. F. G. 

43. GERMAN TOWNS. 

Fire-watch. — The highest tower or steeple of a German town is usually 
occupied by sentinels, who are continually on the look-out, night and day, to 
discover and give the alarm of fire as soon as it breaks out in any quarter. 
These guardians of the public safety are called the Fire-watch ; and this police 
regulation prevails almost all over Germany, where, from the general use of 
wood as a building material, fires are both more frequent and more destructive 
than in England; where, however, some such provision is highly desirable. 
The destruction of a whole town or village by conflagration is no uncommon 
occurrence in Germany ; witness the fearful conflagration of Hamburg in 1842. 
In 1334 the town of "Wiener-Neustadt was totally consumed; out of 400 
houses, 14 alone escaped being reduced to ashes. The intelligence of a fire is 
conveyed to the town by the filing of cannon, and the quarter is indicated by 
holding out a flag by day, or a lantern at night, in the direction in which it has 
been seen. The following account of the proceedings on the occasion of a fire 
breaking out in a German town (Salzburg) is extracted from the note-book of a 
traveller. 

" After dinner, as we were sitting quietly in our room, T writing his 

journal, I listening to the thunder, which, with the rain that accompanied it, 
had had the effect of detaining us within doors, when on a sudden we were 
startled by the louder and nearer report of 2 cannon-shots, the signal of a fire in 
the suburbs, beyond the river. We seized our hats and rushed out ; the smoke 
had hardly curled off from the cannon (those invariable ornaments of almost 



224 44. CLUBS AND reading-roons. Sect. III. 

every Austrian town) in the Grand Place, where our hotel stands ; ' yet we found 
every one already in motion, scampering- to and fro, in the house and out of the 
house : some were getting out the engine, others were dragging towards it a 
pair of horses which had been ready harnessed for a vetturino's carriage, and 
those not so employed, both male and female, were hurrying forward to the spot. 
Some bore leather buckets, others carried little tubs fastened to the end of a 
pole, so as to form a kind of ladle on a large scale, in their hands, in compliance 
with the regulations of the police, which compels all the townspeople, high and 
low, to render assistance on such occasions, either personally, or, in the case of 
the rich, by sending their servants and horses. We joined the throng of shop- 
keepers and labourers, who, having quitted their various occupations, were 
hastening to the scene of the conflagration : it was about 2 miles off, and the 
streets leading to it were so narrow that a wheelbarrow would almost suffice to 
block them up. Every now and then the clattering of hoofs and rattling of 
wheels announced the approach of an engine, and sent the crowd flying right 
and left : those who were not so fortunate as to squeeze themselves into some 
hole or corner ran the risk at least of having their toes run over. Several 
officers also passed us at full gallop, showing their zeal by hastening to the spot 
without their cloaks, in spite of the rain ; and one or two companies of infantry 
and cavalry followed them as fast as their horses or their feet could carry them. 
After them came the commandant of the town himself, who, though a general 
officer of high rank, directed the operations with the minuteness of an officer of 
police." 

Besides the precaution of the fire-guardian posted on the steeple, Hie streets 
are constantly perambulated at night by a watchman, who chants in a doleful 
tone a few admonitory couplets of doggrel, addressed to all fathers of families, 
whether sleeping or waking, recommending them to be on their guard 
against fire, and ending with a caution to look sharp after their wives and 
daughters. 

The Woodcutters. — "In walking the streets of a German town a provoking 
circumstance is, that frequently a third part, or even a half of the street, is ren- 
dered useless by heaps of wood, the fuel of the inhabitants. The wood is brought 
into the city in large pieces, from 3 to 4 feet long. A waggon-load of these logs 
is laid down in the street, at the door of the purchaser, to be sawn and split into 
smaller pieces before being deposited in his cellar. When this occurs, as it often 
does, at every third or fourth door, the street just loses so much of its breadth. 
Nothing remains but the centre, and that is constantly swarming with carriages, 
and carts, and barrows. The pedestrian must either wind himself through among 
their wheels, or clamber over successive piles of wood, or patiently wait till the 
centre of the street becomes passable for a few yards. To think of doubling the 
wooden promontory without this precaution is far from being safe. You have 
scarcely, by a sudden spring, saved your shoulders from the pole of a carriage, 
when a wheelbarrow makes a similar attack on your legs. You make spring 
the second, and, in all probability, your head comes in contact with the uplifted 
hatchet of a woodcutter. The wheelbarrows seem to be the best off. They fill 
such a middle rank between bipeds and quadrupeds, that they lay claim to the 
privileges of both, and hold on their way rejoicing, commanding respect equally 
from men and horses." — Russei/s Tour, 

44. CLUBS AND READING-ROOMS. 

In all the principal German towns Societies corresponding nearly with a 
London club, and known by such names as the Casino, Museum, Harmonie, or 
the like, are to be found. u They are very rational establishments, fitted up 
with a commodious elegance, which make their resources doubly attractive. 
The reading-rooms are stocked with a profusion of journals, reviews, and pam- 



Germany. 45. German burial-grounds. 225 

phlets, literary and political, from all parts of Germany ; besides the French, 
and sometimes English and Italian newspapers. There is often a libraiy of 
books of reference, and a conversation-room, where talkative quidnuncs may be 
relieved from the silence prescribed in the reading-rooms, besides billiard-tables 
and card-rooms, and sometimes a good table-d'hote provided by a restaurateur 
of the establishment. The assembly-rooms, which form part of the edifice, are 
only open on occasions of balls, concerts, and evening societies : to these ladies 
are admitted, and they are kept sacred from the fumes of tobacco, which fre- 
quently perfume and tinge the other handsome apartments. The casinos are 
supported by subscriptions, — noblesse and bourgeoisie, including common trades- 
men, being alike members. A foreign traveller obtains easy access to them by 
means of his banker, and very often through the landlord of his hotel, and finds 
much sociable respectability, as well as convenience and resources, in them." — 
Autumn near the Rhine. 

45. GERMAN BURIAL-GROUNDS. 

One of the peculiarities which distinguish Germany from England is the 
different light in which the abodes of the dead are regarded by the living. 
Before a traveller completes his survey of a German town, it will not be unpro- 
fitable or uninteresting to visit the public burial-ground — the " court of peace," 
or " God's Acre," to give the German names literally translated. In England 
the churchyard is generally a small space in the precincts of the church, which 
is regarded as little else than a passage leading to it ; or where it is separated, 
as it happens in many of our populous cities, it is a large enclosure overgrown 
with weeds and rank grass, which would indicate that it was "by the world 
forgot," except for the high walls, which serve the double purpose of keeping 
out nightly depredators (almost the only class who take an interest in its con- 
tents), and of screening the hateful object from the sight of the rest of the 
world. The French appear to introduce the national frivolity even into their 
burial-grounds, and have given to Pere-la-Chaise the air of a cimetiere omee 
which is hardly befitting the silent city of the dead. In Germany the public 
cemetery is a spot in which the community seems to take much interest. It is 
a place of public resort at all hours, — its gates stand always .open. It is planted 
with a few trees, so that its aspect may not be altogether cheerless ; but it is 
more thickly planted with crosses, gravestones, and monuments, congregated 
together, thick as a forest, slowly advancing foot by foot, year after year, to 
occupy all the vacant space. The inventions of the mason and carpenter in 
fashioning a tombstone rarely go beyond a cross or an urn, a broken pillar or 
stone sarcophagus ; the grave of the soldier is sometimes marked by a sword or 
helmet ; but there are other tokens of honour and respect which show a con- 
tinuance of attention on the part of the living. Gravestones of various shapes, 
with lengthy epitaphs, are common among us : here, however, the more touching 
and trustworthy symptoms of continued recollection are everywhere observed in 
the fresh chaplet or nosegay, the little border of flowers newly dug, the basin of 
holy water, all placed by the side of the funereal hillock. 

At one end of the enclosure is usually a cloister or arcade, under which repose, 
beneath more sumptuous monuments, the rich and the noble. Communicating 
with it also is generally a building where the bodies of the dead are placed, in 
conformity with a police regulation adopted in most German towns, within 12 
horns after death. At the appointed time the dead-cart calls at the door of high 
or low ; and the only distinction made is, that the former repose in an apartment 
better fitted, hung with black, and lighted, by a dismal lamp. 

In this gloomy chamber, the dead bodies, deposited in their coffins, await the 
time appointed for interment. In many places, particularly at Frankfurt, a 

L 3 



226 46. GERMAN burial-grounds. Sect. III. 

peculiar precaution is adopted to guard against the accident of burial in cases 
of suspended animation. The fingers of the prostrate corpse are placed in 
the loops of a string or bell-rope attached to an alarm clock, which is fixed 
in the apartment of an attendant appointed to be on the watch. The least 
pulsation in the body would give the alarm, and medical aid would instantly 
be called in. 

It is melancholy, but impressive, to walk round the Friedhof until you come 
to the spot where the ground has been fresh turned up ; for every inch is disposed 
of systematically, and the vacant space is encroached on only as it is needed. 
Here may be seen the fresh-painted, newly-gilt monument ; then the grave on 
which the turf has been replaced, and has not united ; beyond it the heap of bare 
mould, the grave of yesterday ; and last of all, the open chasm with boards at 
its sides, gaping in readiness for those who are lying stiff hard by. 



Prussia. 



46. TASSPORTS. 



22? 






SECTION IV. 



PRUSSIA— NORTHERN GERMANY— THE RHINE, &c. 



INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 

46. Passports. — 47. Custom - houses. — 48. Prussian Money. — 49. Travel- 
ling in Prussia; Posting or Extra Post; Roads; Tolls. — 50. Schnellposts. — 
51. Inns. 

ROUTES. 

(The names of places are printed in italics only in those Routes where they 
are described.) 



ROUTE 

34. The 



PAGE 



Ehine (B) Nijmegen 
(Nimwegen) or Arnhem to 
Cologne by Diisseldorf - 232 
Nijmegen to Cologne by land, 

through Geldern or Xanten 235 
Aix-la-Chapelle to Cologne — 
Railroad- - - 237 

36 a. Aix-la-Chapelle to Diissel- 
dorf - - - 253 



35 



36. 



37. The Rhine 

Coblenz 

38. The Rhine 

Mayence 

39. The Ahr Valley — Remagen 

to Ahrweiler and Altenahr - 



(C) Cologne to 

(D) Coblenz to 



- 254 



274 



294 



ROUTE PAGE 

40. The Lower Eifel — Excursion 
to the Lake ofLaach, May en, 
and Liitzerath 
Coblenz to Treves, Bertrich - 
The Moselle — Treves to Co- 
blenz - 

43. Aix-la-Chapelle to Treves 

44. Spa to Coblenz 
The Upper Eifel — Priini to 

G-erolstein, Daun 7 and Liit- 
zerath - 
Bingen to Treves 
47. Cologne to Frankfurt, by 

Siegburg and Limburg - 316 



41. 
42. 



45 



46 



296 
298 

305 
311 
313 



314 
316 



46. PASSPORTS. 

The Prussian minister in London rarely gives passports to any but Prussian 
subjects ; but he will countersign a Dutch or Belgian passport, and there is no 
difficulty in procuring one from the Prussian consul for 7s. (see Introduction, 
d. Passports). 

Passports are seldom demanded in the Prussian dominions except on the 
frontier, where travellers' names, &c, are entered in a book kept for the purpose 
at the police office. The arrangements of the passport department are such 
that, at whatever hour of day or night the traveller may arrive, his papers can 
be countersigned at once, without delaying him on his journey. Should the 
traveller take with him from London any other than a Prussian passport, he 
should at least secure, there or elsewhere, the signature of a Prussian minister 
or consul. On the whole, the police regulations are by no means troublesomely 
strict. The stranger is not stopped and questioned at the gate of every town 
he enters, but gives his passport to the landlord of his inn to forward to the 
authorities. 



228 47. custom-houses, 48. Prussian money. Sect. IV. 

47. CUSTOM-HOUSES. 

The one-headed black eagle, and the alternate black and white stripe on 
toll-bars, doors, and sentry-boxes, invariably announce the Prussian frontier, and 
the vicinity of the douane (Zollhaus). 

The Prussian custom-house system (§ 32) now prevails in the greater part 
of Germany, and is sometimes administered by Prussian officials, even in the 
states of other princes. The examination is strict without being vexatious. 
The Prussian douanier (often an old soldier invalided) is above taking a bribe, 
or rather, government regulates matters so as to prevent his taking one. The 
person offering a bribe is even liable to punishment by law. Strangers are treated 
with invariable civility, provided they conduct themselves becomingly. 

The Hanse Towns (excepting Frankfurt), Hanover, and Mecklenburg, have not 
acceded to the Prussian tariff. 

48. PRUSSIAN MONEY. 

The Prussian Silver Coins in use are — 

The Dollar (Thaler), containing 30 silver groschen (S. gr.), or 24 gute (good) 
groschen, = about 3s. English. (In Brunswick and Hanover accounts are still 
kept in good groschen). — The Double Dollar. 

The Dollar is divided into pieces of 

Marked containing English value. 

|d, 3 einen thaler - 10 silver groschen - = Is. 

|th, 6 - - 5 - - = 6d. 

^th, 12 - - 2i - - - = 3d. 

&th, 24 - = lid. 



th, ein silber groschen. 



Copper Money : — 

12 Pfenninge - - - 1 S. gr. 

Pieces of 4, 3, 2, and 1 Pfenninge are coined. 

Paper Money (Kassen Anweisungen or Scheme) is issued in notes of the value 
of 1 thaler, 5 thalers, 50 thalers, and upwards, which are very convenient for 
carrying, though sometimes dirty. As they are often called in, travellers should 
not retain them in their possession, as they might do, for another journey, as 
there is no chance of obtaining value for them afterwards. 

Accounts must now be kept in Silver Groschen (S. gr.) ; but sometimes, in 
private transactions, the old division of the dollar into 24 good (gute) groschen 
is made use of, especially in shops. Care should be taken not to pay in gute 
groschen an account which may have been made up in silver gr. 
Prussian Gold Coins are — 

Marked 
Double Friedrichs d'or 10 thaler = 11 dol. 10 S. gr. = 1/. 13s. 7*d 
Single Friedrichs d'or 5 =5 dol. 20 S. gr. = 16s. 9M. 

Half Friedrichs d'or 2£ =2 dol. 25 S. gr. = 8s. Ad. 

The Silver Dollars of Prussia go through all the states of the Zollverein 
(§ 32) ; also the paper currency, but not the gold, nor the subdivisions of the 
dollar. 

Some of the states of the Union, especially those of S. Germany, have 
retained the gulden or florin as the unit ; 7 gulden = 4 thalers ; but the gulden 
are not so easily passed in N. Germany. 

The Kassen Scheine of other states do not pass readily in Prussia. 

" It may be useful to warn English travellers that the values marked on 
German coins are sometimes not the value at which the coin passes. Thus the 



Prussia. 49. travelling, posting. 229 

double Friedriehs d'or (not of Prussian coinage), though current at 11 dollars 
10 S. gr., are marked X thaler; and the silver pieces marked 10 and 20 kreut- 
zcrs, and which arc current at that value in Austria, are worth 12 and 24 in 
Bavaria, Baden, WUrtemberg, Frankfurt, and wherever the currency consists of 
gulden of the value of 20<1 English. 

Value of Foreign Coins in Prussian dollars and S. gros. : — 







Doll. 


S.gr 


An English sovereign 


= 


6 


25 


shilling 


- = 





10 


French Louis d'or 


- — - 


6 


10 


Napoleon 


- = 


5 


10 


piece of 5 francs 


- = 


1 


10 


1 franc 


— 





8 


Dutch Willem = 10 guilders 


- — 


5 


20 


ducat 


- — 


3 


5 


guilder 


- = 





17 


German Kronthaler (crown) 


- = 


1 


16 


Conventions thaler 


- == 


1 


11 


Bavarian or Rhenish gulden 


- = 





17 


Zwanziger, or piece of 24 krs. 


- = 





8 



49. TRAVELLING IN PRUSSIA — POSTING OR EXTRA-POST. — ROADS. — TOLLS. 

Posting or Extra Post. — A copy of the printed Posting Regulations for Prussia 
may be obtained at every post-office. The traveller will find them very much in 
his favour, and in no country is he better protected against imposition. 

The posting establishments of Prussia are managed by the government, and 
are very well conducted. The postmasters are a respectable class of men, often 
retired officers : in any disputes with postilions, &c, the traveller may generally 
refer to them with safety. Travellers have seldom to wait at the station for 
horses, even on the less frequented roads. At every stage the postmaster must 
present (without its being asked for) a printed receipt (quittung), including the 
charge for horses according to the number, for greasing wheels (schmiergeld), 
ostler (wagenmeister), and tolls (Chaussee, Danim, and Brucke-geld), which 
must be paid in advance before setting out. 

Every horse costs 121 S. gr. per Germ. m. in the provinces bordering on 
the Rhine, and in Westphalia, which is the same rate as in France, but the 
Prussian horses are better. In other parts of Prussia the charge is only 10 S. gr. 
per horse. 

By the Prussian posting regulations of 1838, the number of horses to be attached 
depends on the character of the road (whether macadamised or not), on the kind 
of carriage, and the weight of the carriage and the baggage it contains. In case 
of any dispute about the weight, the traveller may demand that the packages 
be weighed (gratuitously) in his presence. In computing the weight, the pas- 
sengers are included in the ratio of 50 lbs. for a child from 5 to 12 years old, 
100 lbs. for a young person under 16, and 150 lbs. for all above that age. As 
a general rule, a light caleche, open barouche, or britzka, holding 4 or 5 persons, 
with little baggage, requires only 3 horses ; with fewer than 4 persons, 2 horses 
will suffice. Fewer than 3 horses are never attached to a close carriage, landau, 
or berline. 1 postilion is allowed to drive 5 horses, but, if the traveller require 
it, he may have 2 : with 6 horses 2 postilions are indispensable. When the car- 
riage is drawn by only 2 horses, if the postilion cannot drive from the box, a third 
horse must be taken for him to ride on. The postilion is allowed 40 min. for 
driving each Germ. m. (nearly 5 Eng. m.) on good roads. 



230 50. schhellposts, Sect. IV. 

Postilions' Trinkgeld. — The postilion is entitled by the tariff to receive, for 2 
horses, 5 S. gr. ; for 3 or -4 horses, 7^ S. gr. ; and for 5 or more horses, ~\ S. gr. 
for each postilion per Germ. m. The postilion is not allowed to ask for anything 
above the tariff, bnt he expects something extra. In the Rhenish provinces 
they are usually paid at the rate of 1 horse ; in Old Prussia they get from 8 to 10 
S. gr. per Germ. m. 

Post CaUches. — Travellers not having a carriage of their own can be accommo- 
dated with a caleche (equivalent to our post-chaise), but open, and not equally good 
at every post station. The charge for such a carriage per stage varies from 7 s to 
10 S. gr. 

Down to 1814 the only good road was that from Berlin to Magdeburg. In no 
country in Europe, probably, were worse roads to be found than in Prussia 30 
years ago. In that space of time an immense improvement has been effected ; 
all the main roads have been macadamised, and are almost equal to the best in 
England. 

Travellers desirous of getting over their ground expeditiously should without fail 
have recourse to the Laufzettel (§ 34). 

Tolls. — In posting, all charges for roads and barriers are included in the post- 
master's ticket, and paid to him — a great convenience. 

50. SCHXELLPOSTS. 

The Prussian mail-coaches are called Schnellposten (§ 35) ; they are generally 
well managed, being under the direction of the government, and the coach-ofhce 
and post-office are usually in the same building ; they go at the rate of about 6 
m. an hour on an average, and are on the whole roomy and comfortable vehicles. 
The usual cost of travelling by them is 9 or 10 S. gr. per Germ, m., including 
postilions and everything else. It is entirely optional to give anything to the 
conducteur. The passport, properly signed, must be shown before a place can be 
taken, and the fare must be paid beforehand : a receipt is given in acknowledg- 
ment of it. 

The Prussian coaches have no outside places ; and no difference is made in the 
price of the front or back part of the carriage, as is done in France. The places 
are all numbered, and those who apply first have the corner seats. In most 
cases, when all the places in the coach are taken, a traveller will be forwarded 
in a bye- chaise, which starts at the same time, even if there be only one 
person to be conveyed in it. Smoking is not allowed, unless the passengers 
themselves permit it. 

The allowance of luggage is very small — indeed, too small ; usually only 30 
lbs. may be taken free of expense, and 20lbs. more by paying for it. The regula- 
tions respecting over-vxight (§ 38) are very strictly enforced at the Prussian post- 
offices. Every article is weighed before it is placed on the coach, and a heavy 
charge is made for extra weight. Large wooden boxes are generally rejected, 
and must be sent by the packwagen. The luggage must be conveyed to the 
office one hour before the coach starts, in order to be weighed and packed. Each 
package must bear the name and address of the owner. Great care is taken of the 
luggage the moment it has been consigned to the post-office, and the porters be- 
longing to the establishment will convey it to and from the owner's lodgings at 
a charge fixed by government, and never exceeding 5 S. gr. (6c?.) 

Throughout the Prussian dominions, at every inn or post-house where the 
Schnellpost stops, a room, called Passagier Stube, is provided for the reception of 
passengers, where they can obtain such refreshments as bread and butter (butter- 
brod), a sandwich, and a cup of coffee. A tariff fixing the prices of refreshment 
is hung up in the traveller's room, and a control-book is kept for entering com- 
plaints should it be found necessary. 



Prussia. 51. inns. 231 

61. INNS. 

Travellers in Prussia are protected by a regulation of the police from the impo- 
sitions of innkeepers, who are compelled to hang up in every apartment, or at least 
in the public room, a tariff, or list of charges for lodging, food, fuel, servants, 
valets-dc-place, &c. This is inspected periodically by a proper officer, who regu- 
lates the price of each article, and ascertains that none of the charges are exor- 
bitant. The rule of hanging up the tariff is generally infringed on the Rhine, but 
the traveller may insist on seeing it if necessary. 

The usual charges are — for a room on the first floor, 15-20 S. gr. ; 2nd or 3rd 
floor, 10-12 S. gr. ; table d'hote, 24 S. gr. with wine; breakfast, coffee or tea, 
with bread and butter, 8 S. gr. (beefsteak or eggs, 6 S. gr.) ; tea, 8 S. gr. ; valet- 
de-place, 15-20 S. gr., or 1 florin, per diem. A good custom prevails (or rather 
did prevail) in the inns at Berlin and elsewhere, of sending in your bill every 
morning for the previous day. This prevents any error arising from lapse of 
time, and it is by no means meant that the stranger should pay his bill every day 
unless he wishes it. Some English people have taken offence at this custom, not 
perceiving that it is intended to prevent disputes and fraud. In a great many of 
the best hotels of the principal towns in Germany the custom has been introduced 
of inserting in the bill a regular charge per day for the servants. It is a custom 
which relieves the traveller from much perplexity and annoyance. This 
charge ought not to exceed 8 S. groschen, or \ a florin, or 1 franc a day for each 
person. 



232 



ROUTE 34. — NUMEGEN TO COLOGNE. 



Sect. IV. 



ROUTES in Rhenish Prussia. 



EOUTE 34. 

THE RHINE (b) : ARNHEM OR NIJMEGEN 
(nimwegen) TO COLOGNE.* 

* * * For general informationrespect- 
ing the Rhine below Cologne, read Rte. 
11., pp. 80-85. ' 

The steamer sets off on the ascent of 
the Rhine early in the morning, and 
reaches Cologne in about 18 hrs. As 
there is nothing to see in the lower 
part of the Rhine, it is best to proceed 
as far as Arnhem by rail. A steamer 
leaves Arnhem every day at 6 a.m., 
and reaches Cologne at 11 p.m., but 
arrives opposite Duisburg in time for 
the train which reaches Cologne at 6 
P.M. The railway from Duisburg to Co- 
logne occupies 2 hrs. (The steamer 
which leaves Cologne at 7 a.m. reaches 
Arnhem in time for the last train to 
Amsterdam.) About 8 m. above Nij- 
megen, and about the same distance 
above Arnhem, the 2 branches of the 
Rhine — the "Waal, and the Lower Rhine, 
or Lek — unite. Before entering the un- 
divided stream, it is worth while to 
give some little attention to the hydrau- 
lic works erected on the apex of the 
delta. They consist of dams, dykes, 
and jetties, constructed of earth, and 
faced with wicker-work, which are 
thrown up, along the shore or into the 
Rhine, to regulate its course and the 
direction of its waters, the object in 
view being so to distribute its current 
that in all states of its flood, both when 
high and when low, § of the water 
which it brings down may be conveyed 

* POST-ROAD — NIJMEGEN TO BUSSELDORF, BY 
THE RIGHT BANK OF THE RHINE. 

8 Dutch posts, and 13} Prussian m. = 78£ 

English m. 
A diligence daily. This road is very bad ; very 

little of it is chaussee. 
Dutch Posts. 

H Arnhem (R. 5). 

The Prussian territory is entered before 

reaching 
1-J Elten, a village with an old abbey — a 

pretty view — a bad inn. — M. 
(rt.) Post-road continued : 
Prussian miles. 



into the "Waal, and only \ into the Lek. 
It is the duty, therefore, of the water- 
engineers to watch every variation of the 
current and level of the Rhine, and to 
guard against changes, and preserve 
the equilibrium, by constantly throwing 
out new works. These constructions 
are of the highest importance, since, in 
point of fact, the physical existence of 
Holland in a great degree depends on 
them : and had not the necessary pre- 
cautions been taken to strengthen them 
in 1774, the country would, in all 
probability, have been overwhelmed 
by the inundations which occurred in 
1784. 

At a place called Aart a dam is drawn 
across an ancient arm of the Rhine, 
strengthened by the Dutch with thick 
plantations of willows. It is intended 
that this abandoned channel should 
serve as a safety-valve in case of very 
great increase in the waters of the Rhine ; 
and by a convention with the Prussian 
government it is settled that, when the 
river attains a certain height at the 
gauge at Arnhem, it shall be allowed 
an outlet through this dam. This is by 
no means an impossible contingency ; 
and were it to happen, the dam would 
be washed away in 5 minutes after 
the water had begun to flow over it, 
and a new passage would be opened for 
the Rhine to the sea. 

The frontier of Holland and Prussia 
is marked by the situation of 

rt. Lobith, the station of the Dutch 
custom-house. The steamer, in descend- 
ing the river, brings-to here for an hour 
or more, and is boarded by the officers. 
Opposite Lobith stood Schenkenschanze, 
once a strong fortress, and considered 
the key of the Netherlands, taken by 
Frederick Henry Prince of Orange 
1636, and by Turenne 1672. It owed 
its importance to its position on the 
tongue of land formed by the forking of 
the Rhine, but the river has completely 
changed its bed in the coiu'se of centu- 
ries, and the separation of the Rhine and 
"Waal now takes place considerably be- 



Rhenish Prussia, route 34. — nijmegen to cologne. 



233 



low the fortress, which has fallen to de- 
cay, and is now scarcely discernible. 

1. The spires and towers of Cleves 
(Etc. 35) maybe seen near this, at a little 
distance from the river. It takes 4 hrs. 
steam to reach 

rt. Emmerich.* Inn: II. des Pays- 
Bas, best. This is the first Prussian 
town ; it is fortified, and has a garrison 
and 5000 inhab., and considerable ma- 
nufactures. It has a Dutch character 
of cleanliness. At its upper end rise 
the stunted Gothic towers of St. Alde- 
gund's Ch. ; at the lower appears the 
Minster, the oldest ch. on the rt. bank 
of the Rhine. The steamer is here 
boarded by the custom-house officers, 
who, however, are contented with a 
very slight inspection of the baggage 
of a traveller, and passports are vise by 
the police (§ 46, 47), which usually 
causes a stoppage of 1 or 2 hours. 

rt. Eees.f A small town with high 
walls. 

1. Xanten, distinguished by its double- 
spired church (see p. 236), lies at a 
short distance from the Ehine, which 
appears to have flowed close to it in 
former times. The ancient bed is dis- 
tinctly traceable. 

rt. "Wesel.J Inn: Dornbusch's, best. 
This is a fortress of the first class, 
forming the bulwark of Prussia on her 
N.W. frontier ; it lies at the junction of 
the Lippe with the Ehine, and has 
13,200 inhab. including the garrison. 
The citadel is situated S. of the town. 

The Rathhaus is a handsome build- 
ing. The town carries on a considerable 
trade with Holland, and its commerce 
has increased since the Lippe was made 
navigable. Much wood and salt are 
transported out of Westphalia by that 
river. The Ehine is here divided into 
2 branches by the island of Buderich, 
also fortified by block-houses, and is 
crossed by a bridge of boats. 

A monument has been erected near 
"Wesel to the Prussian officers engaged 
in S chill's revolt at Stralsund, who 
were mercilessly shot here by the French, 
1809. Rapin here wrote his History of 
England. He resided 17 years and died 
here. 

* 1 Emmerich. f 2± Rees. Inn, Krone. 
% 3$ Wesel. 2 Dinslaken. 



1. Immediately opposite Wcsel lies 
Fort Blucher, formerly called Fort Na- 
poleon, while it belonged to the French. 
A small town was swept away to make 
room for it, and. has since been rebuilt 
about 3 m. off. 

1. Orsoy. 

rt: Euhrort (Hacks Inn), at the open- 
ing of the Euhr into the Ehine, serves 
as the depot for the coals brought down 
the Euhr from the coalfield on its banks. 
Nearly 3,000,000 tons are, it is said, 
extracted annually. The consumption 
of coals is enormously increased since 
the Belgian Eevolution, as Holland now 
obtains from this quarter part of the 
supply which she previously derived 
from Liege. There are very large boat- 
builders' yards here. Near the lower 
(E.) end of the town is a considerable 
Castle. 

rt. Duisburg. Inns : Post ; Ehei- 
nischer Hof. (Drusiburgum of the Bo- 
mans . ) A manufacturing town of 7 
inhab., near the Euhr, which falls into 
the Ehine 3 m. below the town. St. 
Salvator's (1415), 1 \ m. distant from the 
Ehine, is a fine ch. The University, 
founded here 1655, was suppressed 1802. 
The Minden and Cologne Railway con- 
nects this town with Cologne ; trains 
take 2 hrs. (Ete. 66.) Travellers bound 
for Cologne or Berlin will gain some 
time by quitting the steamer here and 
taking to the railway. 

The Valley of the Ruhr is distinguished 
not only for its active industry, its coal- 
mines, &c, but also for its very pictu- 
resque scenery. It deserves exploring ; 
the most interesting points being Ho- 
hensiegburg, Blankenstein, Werden, 
Kettwig, and Muhlheim. 

1. Uerdingen, marked by the poplars 
round it. At Eichelskamp, near this, 
the French revolutionary army under 
Lefebvre, 25,000 strong, first crossed the 
Ehine, 1795, and, by violating the neu- 
trality of the Prussian territory on the 
opposite bank, turned the position of 
the Austrians. 

rt. Kaiserswerth, originally, as its 
name implies, an island, was long the 
residence of the German Emperors. 
Pepin d'Heristal built here a castle, 
now in ruins ; from which the Emperor 
Henry IV., when a child 12 years of 



234 



ROUTE 34. — DUSSELDORF. ARTISTS. 



Sect. IV. 



age, was secretly carried off from his 
mother Agnes, by Hanno Archbp. of 
Cologne. There still exist remains of 
a more recent Castle, built by the Emp. 
Frederick I. The Church (13th cent.) 
contains the shrine of St. Suibert, an 
English monk, who is said to have 
preached Christianity here in the 8th 
cent. 

rt. DUsseldorf. (Stat.) Inns: 
Breidenbacher Hof, good. Hotel Dom- 
hardt. Drei Reichskronen (3 Imp. 
Crowns), very comfortable. Hotel de 
deux Ponts, or Zweibnicker Hof. These 
are in the town. Europaischer Hof and 
Prinz von Preussen close to the Rail- 
way station. 

Diisseldorf, capital of the duchy of 
Berg, is situated on the rt. bank of 
the Rhine, here about 1200 ft. broad, 
and traversed by a bridge of boats, at 
the junction of the small river Diissel, 
which gives its name to the town. It 
has 31,000 inhab., and was a fortified 
town down to the peace of Luneville ; 
but at present is surrounded by gardens 
and pleasant walks in the place of ram- 
parts. It is the residence of Prince 
Frederick of Prussia, cousin of the 
King, and is the seat of the Provincial 
Estates, or Parliament of the Ehenish 
Provinces. It is divided into 3 quar- 
ters — the Altstadt, with narrow and 
dirty streets ; the Karlstadt, and the 
Neustadt, which are the finest quarters. 

Diisseldorf, though a neat town, con- 
tains nothing remarkable at present 
except its school of living artists, who 
occupy the Palace near the Rhine, 
built by the Elector John William, 
whose bronze statue stands in the mar- 
ket-place on horseback. The main edi- 
fice, with many other buildings, was 
destroyed by the bombardment of the 
French, 1794, save one wing, and has 
only recently been rebuilt. It con- 
tained, down to 1805, the famous col- 
lection of pictures now at Munich. 
One large painting of inferior excel- 
lence, the Ascension of the Virgin, by 
Rubens, was left behind. The old 
pictures which now fill the gallery are 
not good for much. Tasso and the 2 
Leonoras by Carl Sohn is a charming 
modern work. 

There is a very remarkable Collection 



of Drawings by the old masters, 14,280 
in number, including several by Ra- 
phael, A. Mantegna, Giulio Romano 
(designs for the Palazzo del T.), Do- 
menichino, M. Angelo, Titian, &c. Also 
300 drawings in water-colours, copies 
of the most remarkable works of 
Italian painters of all schools from the 
4th cent, by Ramboux. Below the gal- 
lery is the public Library. 

The Diisseldorf school of painting, 
which, curiously enough, has had its 
rise since the removal of the picture 
gallery, was founded in 1828, under the 
direction of Cornelius (a native of the 
town), in whose studio many clever 
artists have formed themselves. In the 
historical branch of art it is particularly 
strong. Every summer, usually in 
July and August, there is an exhibition 
of paintings here by native and living 
artists, which continues open till the 
month of September, after which the 
pictures are dispersed. The studios of 
the artists in a wing of the Palace are 
shown from 12 to 2. 

The Ch. of St. Andrew (Hofkirche) 
contains some pictures by Diisseldorf 
artists : in it and the Ch. of St. Lambert 
are several monuments of former princes. 
In the ch. of the Jesuits is a good spe- 
cimen of Deger's painting. It is over 
the altar in the S. aisle, and represents 
the Virgin standing on clouds, support- 
ing the infant Saviour. 

The Hofgarten is one of the finest 
public gardens in Germany, much va- 
ried in surface, having groves and 
water, and commanding a good view 
of the Rhine ; it is a very agreeable 
promenade. There is a Theatre here, 
and music is very much cultivated. 

Diisseldorf derives its chief import- 
ance and prosperity from its situation 
on the Rhine ; it serves as a port for 
the merchandise sent from the indus- 
trious manufacturing districts of the 
Duchy of Berg. Cottons and cloths 
are brought down hither from Elber- 
feld, iron-ware from Sohlingen, and 
limestone from Ratingen, to be shipped 
and exported. 

Fempelfort, in the vicinity of the 
town on the E., was the residence of 
the philosopher Frederick Jacobi, and 
the resort of Gothe, "Wieland, Herder, 



Rhenish Prussia, route 35. — nijmegen to cologne, cleves. 235 



Stolberg, and a host of distinguished 
literary men of the last cent. 

The mansion of Count Spee, at 
Helldorf, about 12 m. from Dusseldorf, 
near the Calcum stat., on the railroad 
to Duisburg, contains Frescoes by 
modern German artists of great excel- 
lence : — 1 . The interview of Pope 
Alexander III. and the Emperor, in St. 
Mark's, Venice, by Cornelius; 2. Hen- 
ry the Lion, the head of the Guelphic 
party, submitting to the Emp. Bar- 
barossa ; 3. The Humiliation of the 
Milanese to Barbarossa — both by Miicke ; 
and, 4. Barbarossa seizing with his 
own hand the Saracen standard, by 
Lessing ; two other designs by Miicke 
and Lessing. 

Diisselthal, 3 m. from Dusseldorf, is 
a sequestrated Abbey, converted into 
an asylum for destitute children by the 
benevolent exertions of Count von der 
Recke, who with his family resides on 
the spot, and devotes his time and 
attention to the institution. About 140 
children of both sexes receive a plain, 
useful education, and are taught some 
trade by which they may maintain 
themselves respectably. 

Railroads — from Dusseldorf to Co- 
logne; trains in 1 h. (Rte. 66) — to 
Elberfeld, Minden, Hanover, Magde- 
burg, and Berlin (in 9 h.) (Rte. 67) 

The Steamer takes 5 h. in ascend- 
ing, 2£ in descending the Rhine between 
Dusseldorf and Cologne. The Rhine 
winds so much as to render the distance 
by water about one-fourth greater than 
that by land. 

1. Soon after quitting Dusseldorf 
the steeple of Neuss (p. 236) is visible. 
Drusus is said to have thrown a bridge 
over the Rhine here : at present there 
is a flying bridge at Hetdorf. 

rt. Benrath Stat., a handsome cha- 
teau, built by the Electors of Cleves and 
Berg, and inhabited by Murat while 
grand duke, is seen at a distance. 

rt. Muhlheim Stat. Close to it is 
Stammheim, the seat of Count Fiirsten- 
berg, with its new Gothic chapel. 

1. Cologne Station. (Rte. 36). 

In descending the Rhine from Cologne 
to Rotterdam, a steamer reaches Nijme- 
gen in 12 or 14 h. From Nijmegen 
to Rotterdam, 8 h. Some steamers 



take the Lek branch of the river by 
Amhem (p. 83), which is reached in 
12 h. from Cologne. Railway thence 
to Amsterdam. (Rte. 5.) 

ROUTE 35. 

NIJMEGEN TO COLOGNE, BY CLEVES, AND 
GELDERN OR XANTEN. 

17 Pruss. m.=82 Eng. m. ; Schnell- 
post daily by Xanten and Geldern in 
14 h. 

About 6 m. from Nijmegen the Dutch 
frontier is passed, and the Prussian 
custom-house (§ 43) is reached at 

If Kranenburg. Before entering 
Cleves the road passes through the 
beautiful park called the Thiergarten. 

1~ Cleves (Germ. Kleve, French 
Cleves). Inns: Prinz Mauritz von Nas- 
sau, very good, fine view ; Hotel zum 
Thiergarten, good and reasonable ; Ko- 
nig von Preussen. Cleves is about 2£ m. 
from the Rhine, but is connected with it 
by a canal ; it has 7500 inhab., and is 
capital of the duchy of Cleves, an ancient 
possession of the house of Prussia. It 
is built upon 3 gentle hills, and perhaps 
received its name from the Latin word 
clivum, a slope. The country around 
is charming from its beauty and fer- 
tility, and the pleasing variety of hills 
and valleys clothed with wood and 
verdure. 

The old castle called the Schwanen- 
burg, formerly the residence of the 
Dukes of Cleves, in which the ill-fated 
Anne was born, whom Henry VIII. 
termed a " Flanders mare," is now 
converted into public offices. The 
oldest part of it is a massive and pic- 
turesque Tower, 180 ft. high, built 1439, 
on the top of a rock, and overlooking 
the country far and wide. There is a 
very extensive view from it. It de- 
rives its name of " the Swan's Tower'' 
from a traditional story of a strange 
knight who appeared to a Duchess of 
Cleves in a vessel drawn by a swan ; 
she fell in love with him, and married 
him, but after 10 years the swan re- 
turned and bore him away from his 
wife, who never saw him more. The 
tale forms the subject of one of Mr. 
Southey's poems. The Church contains 



236 



ROUTE 35. — CREFELD. NEUSS. ZANTEN. 



Sect. IV. 



several monuments of the Counts of 
Cleves. The Prinzeriliof is a handsome 
"building, erected by John Maurice 
Prince of Nassau- Siegen, 1663, now 
occupied by the Count von der Lippe : 
and at Berg und Thai, 2 m. off, on the 
road to Xanten, within a grove of 
trees, is the prince's iron tomb. The 
Thiergarten is an agreeable pleasure- 
ground, containing a mineral spring, 
and commanding a fine view. There is 
a fine panoramic view from Clevesberg, 
which is near the Hotel zum Thier- 
garten, and only a pleasant walk from 
the Hotel Prinz Mauritz. 

Cleves is about 4^ m. from Emmerich. 
Eilwagen daily to Nijmegen in 3 h. 

If Goch. A had road to Crefeld. 



Inn: Schwarzer Adler, 



If Kevelaer. 

lj Geldern. 
3600 inhah. 

1J Aldekerk. 

2£ Crefeld (Inns: "Wilder Mann; 
Goldner Anker), a flourishing town 
of 25,897 inhah., with spacious streets 
and handsome houses, which, hy their 
neatness, give to this place all the 
appearance of a Dutch town. It owes 
its prosperity to the manufactures of 
silk and velvet, which employ 6000 
persons. Part of the silk goods intro- 
duced into England as French are in 
fact manufactured here, and are equal 
in quality to the French. The annual 
produce of the looms amounts to 
4,000,000 dollars. 

2^ Neuss. Inns: Eomischer Kai- 
ser ; Pheinischer Hof. It is supposed 
to he the Novesium of the Pomans, 
and to have heen built hy Drusus, who 
threw a hridge over the Phine here. 
The Cologne gate, still called the Drusus 
Thor, is Poman in the lower part, the 
upper heing of the 14th cent. : some 
cannon-balls from the siege of Charles 
the Bold have been built into it. The 
town is mentioned hy Tacitus ; in his 
time it lay close to the Phine, which 
at present flows 1 J m. from it. It has 
7000 inhah. 

The Ch. of St. Quirinus, a splendid 
edifice, appears, from an inscription in 
the wall on the S. side of the interior, 
to have heen huilt in 1208. It, espe- 
cially the W. end and tower, is one of 
the most remarkable specimens of the 



transition from the round to the pointed 
style. Observe in the highly orna- 
mented "W. end the beginning of 
that fulness of ornament which was 
developed in the pointed style : also 
the trefoil and quatrefoil patterns tak- 
ing the place of the plain panelling of 
the round style. The 4 pinnacles at 
the angles of the W. tower are evi- 
dently later additions. Inside, although 
most of the side arches are pointed, the 
vaulting of the nave is round. Observe 
the oblong cupola, and the peculiar 
form of the windows in the nave, aisles, 
transepts, and cupola. This form seems 
to have been adopted in order to give 
more light where there was not suf- 
ficient space for a large circular win- 
dow. The cupola is ornamented with 
some early paintings hy Cornelius,, in 
chiaro oscuro. 

Leaving Neuss, the road traverses 
the abandoned bed of the Phine. 

2 Dormagen. 

2f Cologne, in Pte. 36. 



Between Cleves and Neuss the tra- 
veller has the choice of another post- 
road, which is better than the preced- 
ing, hut is also longer. It passes 

If Calcar. In the Ch. (14th cent.) 
are fine altar-pieces hy John V. Calcar. 

2 Xanten (Inn, Nieder- Pheinischer 
Hof), a town of 3400 inhab., the Castra 
Vetera of the Pomans. Julius Caesar 
is said to have built a fort here, and the 
Praetorian camp of Varus, from which 
he led the Poman legions across the 
Phine, was on the neighbouring hill 
called Furstenberg. According to one 
version of the legend, the Emp. Max- 
imian, about 290 A.D., caused St. Ge- 
reon and the Theban legion, amounting 
to 6000 men, to be executed here be- 
cause they had become Christians. 
The scene of this legend is also placed 
at Agaunum, now St. Maurice, in the 
Canton Valais, Switzerland; but of 
course this version is not received at 
Cologne, where the traveller may see 
the bones of the legion in St. Gereon's 
Church. The Church of St. Victor is 
a very ancient and beautiful structure, 
well worth notice, in the pointed style 
of architecture (date 1383), except the 
W. front, probably built 1128. The 



Menish Prussia, route 36.— aix-la-chapelle to cologne. 



237 



altar-piece is the best work of Barth. 
de Bruyn, a Cologne painter, 1534. 
The country around affords abundant 
traces of its ancient masters, in the va- 
riety of Roman antiquities every day 
brought to light. There is a very ex- 
tensive collection of them here, belong- 
ing to Mr. Houben, a notary. At 
Xanten stood the castle of the Niebe- 
lungen, the heroes of the old German 
epic, and here Siegfried, the slayer of 
the dragon, was born, according to it. 
Beyond Xanten the road is heavy sand 
and gravel; it passes by the scarcely 
distinguishable site of a Roman amphi- 
theatre. 

If Griinthal. 

1 Rheinburg, formerly a strong for- 
tress, had the honour to be captured by 
Louis XIV. in person, 1672. 

1-| Meurs. 

1J Uerdingen. There is a direct 
road from this to JSTeuss, leaving Crefeld 
on one side, to 

3 Neuss. Hence to Cologne 4f 
Germ, m., as above. 

ROUTE 36. 

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO COLOGNE. — 
RAILROAD. 

9^ Prussian m.=43i Eng. m. 

Aix-la-Chapelle (Germ. Aachen). 
Inns : Grand Monarque, chez Dremel ; 
first-rate to those who travel in first- 
rate style, and not bad for others ; 
table-d'hote at 2 and 5; — Nuellen's 
Hotel is recommended as capital, in a 
good situation, close to the Fountain ; 
— H. d'Empereur; — Grand Hotel, 
good and moderate, close to the Baths ; 
— Bellevue, good and well situated; 
— 'Couronne Imperiale, very good and 
quiet ; — H. des Quatrc Saisons, good ; 
— Dragon d' Or, good; — H. de la Rose 
(or Aigle Noir), good. 

The passports of travellers who have 
just entered Prussia from the Belgian 
frontier are sometimes examined here, 
and' vised by the authorities. The 
passports taken from travellers by the 
Railway remain 2 days at the station 
— if not reclaimed thence within that 
time, they are forwarded to the H. de 
Ville. Passports of travellers not stop- 
ping here are returned immediately. 



Aix-la-Chapelle, a town of 47,518 
inhab. (1973 Protestants), was known 
to the Romans under the name of Aquis 
Granum. The warm springs were a 
sufficient inducement to fix that bath- 
loving people on the spot, and remains 
of their baths are constantly found in 
digging. It is to Charlemagne, how- 
ever, that the city owes its eminence. 
He was born here, as some conjecture, 
and without doubt died here, 814. He 
raised it to the rank of second city in 
his empire, and made it capital of his 
dominions N. of the Alps, appointing it 
the place of coronation for the German 
emperors, his successors, 37 of whom, 
and 11 empresses, were crowned here 
between 814 and 1531. 

In the middle ages it flourished with 
the privileges of a Free Imperial City, 
and attained great eminence in its ma- 
nufactures, especially in that of cloth, 
for which it is celebrated even to the 
present day. 

It was the scene of many Diets of 
the Empire, and of several councils of 
the Church ; and in later times it has 
been distinguished by the Congresses 
held here : — 1. In 1668, when a treaty 
of peace was concluded between France 
and Spain ; — 2. In 1748, when a gene- 
ral peace was signed by the sovereigns 
of Europe; and — 3. In 1818, at which 
the Emperors of Austria and Russia, 
and King of Prussia, were present in 
person, and Ambassadors were sent 
from George IV. and Louis XVIII. , to 
decide on the evacuation of France by 
the Allied armies. 

After the Peace of Paris Aix was 
separated from France, to which it had 
been united by Napoleon, and added to 
the dominions of the King of Prussia. 
The handsome new streets and fine 
buildings erected since that event, as 
well as the increase of population, show 
a return to its ancient prosperity. In- 
deed it has rapidly risen into import- 
ance as a manufacturing town. The 
huge chimneys starting up on all sides, 
and the clouds of smoke, are evidence of 
this. Since the days of the Romans 
and Charlemagne it has been celebrated 
as a watering-place, and is annually 
frequented by many thousand visitors. 

The Hotel de Ville (Rathhaus), in the 



238 



ROUTE 36. — AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. CATHEDEAL. Sect. IV. 



market-place, is a large and somewhat 
imposing building, erected 1353, on the 
site of the Palace of the Frankish Kings, 
in which Charlemagne was born. The 
Tower of Granus, at the E. end (where 
the Passport and Police Office is), said 
erroneously to be of Roman origin, was 
built 1215. The semicircular tower on 
the"W. side belonged to the Carlovingian 
Palace. The Rathhaus is remarkable 
as the place of meeting of the two Con- 
gresses of 1748 and 1818. In the grand 
saloon (Kaisersaal), on the 3rd floor, 
where the conferences were held, are 
some modern frescoes, — scenes from the 
Life of Charlemagne, by Bethel ; and 
in a small room on the lower floor, 
some bad pictures of the members of 
the Congresses collectively, and some 
equally bad portraits of the ministers 
and sovereigns who assisted at them ; 
among them, that of Lord Sandwich, 
the English minister, is conspicuous ; 
also Napoleon's portrait, presented by 
himself to the town. A smaller room 
was occupied by Sir Thomas Lawrence 
as a painting-room, in 1818, while tak- 
ing the portraits of the sovereigns and 
other eminent persons then assembled, 
for the gallery at "Windsor. 

In the centre of the square is a foun- 
tain surmounted by the bronze statue 
of the Empr. Charlemagne, erected 1620. 
A turreted house opposite the Rath- 
haus, and the Old Prison, having a good 
front with statues, are remarkable. 

The Miinster or Bomkirche [Cathedral) 
consists of 2 parts, erected at different 
times, in different styles. The nave, an 
octagon within, but having externally 
16 sides, with round arches, stands on 
the spot where Charlemagne had erected 
(796-804) "the chapel," after which the 
city was named. He designed it to be a 
burial-place for himself, causing it to be 
constructed in the form of the Church 
of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. 
It was consecrated by Pope Leo III., 
" with a ceremony worthy of its splen- 
dour; 365 archbishops and bishops 
were to be present at the solemnity, but, 
unluckily, 2 were missing ; and there 
is no knowing what might have re- 
sulted if 2 reverend prelates of Tongres, 
quietly reposing in their graves at Maes- 
tricht, had not been so kind as to walk 



out and supply the vacant seats at the 
ceremony. So says the tradition of the 
place." The original church was de- 
stroyed by the Normans, and rebuilt in 
its present form by the Empr. Otho III. 
in 983, no doubt partly in conformity 
with the ancient plan, and perhaps with 
the old materials ; it is decidedly one 
of the oldest buildings in Germany. 
On the rt.-hand side of the great 
door is the figure of a she-bear which 
has puzzled antiquarians. The brass 
doors and rails of the church are very 
ancient. 

The position of the Tomb, in which 
once reposed the mortal remains of 
Charlemagne, is marked by a large 
slab of marble under the centre of the 
dome, inscribed with the words " Ca- 
ROLO Magno." A massive brazen chan- 
delier (the candlesticks are modern) 
hangs above it, the gift of the Emp. 
Frederic Barbarossa. The vault below, 
now empty, was opened by him in 
1165. It had already been opened, 
a.d. 997, by Otho III., after Pope 
Paschal III. had made Charlemagne 
a saint. He found the body of Charle- 
magne not reclining in his coffin, as is 
the usual fashion of the dead, but seated 
in his throne as one alive, clothed in 
the imperial robes, bearing the sceptre 
in his hand, and on his knees a copy of 
the Gospels. On his fleshless brow was 
the crown, the imperial mantle covered 
his shoulders, the sword Joyeuse was 
by his side, and the pilgrim's pouch, 
which he had borne always while liv- 
ing, was still fastened to his girdle. All 
these venerable relics were removed, 
and used in the coronation ceremonies 
of succeeding Emperors of Germany. 
They are now deposited at Vienna. 
The throne, in which the body of Char- 
lemagne was seated, alone remains 
here : it is placed in the gallery (Hoch 
Miinster) running round the octagon, 
facing the choir. It is an arm-chair, 
in shape somewhat like that of Edward 
the Confessor in Westminster Abbey, 
but made of slabs of white marble, 
which, dming the coronation, were 
covered with plates of gold. It is pro- 
tected by wooden boards, which the 
sacristan will remove to satisfy a 
stranger's cimosity. The arches of 



Rhenish Prussia, route 36. — aix-la-chapelle. relics. 



239 



the gallery are now once more adorned 
with some of the 32 pillars of granite 
and porphyry brought by Charlemagne 
from the Exarch's Palace at Ravenna, 
and partly from the East. These were 
somewhat wantonly removed by the 
French : a part of them only were re- 
turned from Paris, the rest have been 
replaced by modern pillars given by 
the King of Prussia. In the side chapel 
of St. Nicholas stands an antique Sarco- 
phagus of Parian marble, the work of 
Roman or Greek artists, ornamented 
with a fine bas-relief of the Rape of 
Proserpine : the feet of the dead Charle- 
magne originally rested in it, within 
his tomb. 

The Choir, a more modern addition, 
begun in 1353, finished 1413, "is of 
prodigious height (114 ft.) and light- 
ness, having the appearance of a stu- 
pendous lantern all of glass." It con- 
tains a pulpit, covered with plates of 
silver gilt, richly ornamented with 
carvings in ivory and precious stones : 
this is concealed by a wooden case, 
which the sacristan will remove. Mary 
Queen of Scots presented the image of 
the Virgin over the altar with a crown 
of gold, which was stolen in 1843, and 
all traces of it are lost. The Emp. 
Otho III. is buried beneath the high 
altar. Pull musical mass every Sun- 
day, at 10 a.m. 

The only paintings worth notice in the 
Dom are an ancient piece in an upper 
chapel by William Kalb, and a fine 
altar-piece, in compartments, said to be 
by Albert BiXrer (?), in the sacristy. 

The Treasury or Sacristy of the 
church is very rich in relics. These 
are divided into the Lesser and the 
Greater relics. Among the former are 
the skull of Charlemagne, enclosed in 
a silver case, something like a barber's 
block, and his arm-bone, both taken, it 
is said, from his grave. It is recorded 
of Charlemagne that he was of tall 
stature, and this is believed to be con- 
firmed by the immense length and 
thickness of this arm-bone; unluckily 
it has been discovered by one whose 
knowledge of anatomy leaves no room 
for doubting the fact, that the bone is 
no arm at all, but a leg-bone, or tibia ! 
The case for the arm was the gift of 



Louis XL of France, who had it made 
148 1 . The rest of the bones of Charle- 
magne were discovered here, in 1847, 
in a chest, put away in a dark closet. 
Besides these are the hunting-horn of 
Charlemagne, formed of an elephant's 
tusk ; also a locket of the Virgin's hair, 
and a piece of the true cross, 2 relics 
which he wore round his neck, in his 
grave, as well as while alive. The 
leathern girdle of Christ (on which 
may still be seen the impression of 
Constantine's seal), the cord which 
bound the rod which smote him, a 
nail of the Cross, the sponge which 
was filled with vinegar, that arm of 
Simeon on which he bore the infant 
Jesus, some of the blood and bones 
of St. Stephen, some manna from the 
Wilderness, and some bits of Aaron's 
rod, are still preserved here ! It was 
upon these relics that the Emperor of 
Germany swore at his coronation. 

The Grandes Reliques are shown only 
once in 7 years, from the 15th to the 
27th of July. The next exhibition will 
take place in 1853. So sacred was thia 
ceremony held, and so high was the pri- 
vilege esteemed of obtaining a glimpse 
of them, that in former times no fewer 
than 150,000 pilgrims resorted to the 
spot from all parts on this occasion ; 
and in 1846, the last exhibition, the 
number exceed 180,000. These relics 
were presented to Charlemagne by the 
Patriarch of Jerusalem, and by Haroun- 
al-Raschid. They are deposited in a 
rich shrine of silver gilt, the work of 
artists of the 9th cent., and consist of 
— 1. The robe worn by the Virgin at 
the Nativity ; it is of cotton, 5 ft. long. 
— 2. The swaddling-clothes in which 
Jesus was wrapped ; they are of cloth, 
as coarse as sacking, of a yellow colour. 
— 3. The cloth on which the head of 
John the Baptist was laid. — 4. The 
scarf worn by our Saviour at the Cruci- 
fixion, bearing stains of blood. Inter- 
mixed with these religious relics are 
many curious antiqxie gems, some Ba- 
bylonian cylinders, and the like, which 
serve as jewels to ornament the saintly 
treasury. The church plate and articles 
of goldsmith's work, shrines, ampuls, 
reliquaries, crosses, chalices, &c, pre- 
served in this sacristy, render it a per- 



240 



ROUTE 36. — AIX. SPRINGS. BATHS. 



Sect. IV. 



feet museum, and a real treasure of the 
best period of Gothic art, deserving at- 
tention for the inventive skill shown 
in the designs, and the excellent execu- 
tion of the ornaments. Those who de- 
spise the relics will at least be gratified 
by the sight of the cases in which they 
are enshrined. "It is perhaps the 
richest collection of the kind remain- 
ing, and gives a vast idea of the 
wealth of the church in former days. 
The most remarkable pieces are 2 large 
shrines of silver gilt enamelled, with 
figures and inscriptions, said to be gifts 
of Otho III. and Frederick II. ; the 
golden plates that covered the throne 
of Charlemagne, impressed with figures 
in the Byzantine style; a fine ivory 
cup ; 2 pure Gothic reliquaries of gold, 
of the most beautiful workmanship, 
gifts of the Emp. Charles V. and Philip 
II. of Spain, but evidently of much 
earlier date. All these well deserve the 
attention of the architectural student." 
— F. S. 

The plate and the lesser relics are 
shown by the treasurer for a fee of 1 
dollar or 4 fr. ; and the throne, sarco- 
phagus, and pulpit, by the verger, who 
expects \ a dollar from a party. 

The other churches are scarcely 
worth notice. The Kornhaus is a curi- 
ous building of the 12th cent., near the 
Dom, having statues of the 7 Electors 
in front. 

A very handsome wide street leads 
from the Eailway to the Theatre, and 
to the Fountain of Elisa (Elisenbrunnen), 
a fine building with a Doric colonnade ; 
it serves the purpose of a pump-room, 
and has a cafe attached to it, elegantly 
fitted up. The guests, or visitors, re- 
pair hither early in the morning to 
drink the water, which, though con- 
ducted in pipes direct from the Em- 
peror's spring, retains a temperature of 
43° Eeaumur. A band of excellent 
music plays at the spot until the middle 
of Sept., from 6 to 8 a.m., which is 
considered the end of the season ; and 
breakfasts or dinners are provided in 
the apartments adjoining the spring. 
The building is named after the Q,. of 
Prussia. 

The Mineral Springs of Aix rise in 
the centre of the town ; they are of 



2 classes : the upper, which are the 
strongest and hottest ; the lower, which 
are weaker and cooler. In the first 
class the principal spring is the Source 
de l' Empereur ; it contains a larger 
quantity of sulphur than any other 
known in Europe ; and when the va- 
pour arising from it is confined, and 
not allowed to escape, it deposits crys- 
tals of sulphur. It has a temperature 
of 143° Fahr., and owes its disagree- 
able taste to the presence of supersul- 
phuretted hydrogen gas. 

This and the 2 contiguous sources 
supply — 1. The Bain de V Ernpereur, 
situated in the street called the Buchel, 
and containing 20 baths. — 2. The Bain 
Neuf, comfortable, and better lighted 
than ISTo. 1. The charge for the sul- 
phureous bath is 1| fr. ; for the vapour 
bath 4 fr. — 3. Bain de la Reine d'Hongrie. 
— 4. Bain St. Quirin, having only 38° 
Eeaumur. So great is the heat of these 
springs that the waste water allowed to 
escape through the sewers of the town 
is employed by the common people to 
wash their linen; and not only saves 
them the expense of fuel, but also of 
soap, since the natron or alkaline salt 
contained in it supplies its place. It 
may be observed that linen washed in 
the water acquires so disagreeable an 
odour, that strangers will repent if they 
allow theh clothes to be subjected to it. 

The baths supplied by the lower 
spring, situated in the street called 
Comphausbad, are — 1. Le Bain de la 
Hose. — 2. Bain St. Comeille. — 3. Bain 
St. Charles. — 4. Comphausbad, appro- 
priated to the use of the poor. 

Besides the warm spring there are 
also sources of chalybeate water, to re- 
ceive which a Bath-house and Hotel 
are erected in the Neue Strasse. 

The bath-houses are the property of 
the town, and are let to tenants : they 
contain lodgings, and are pretty much 
on a par. 

The Redoute, or Gaming-hoii.se, in the 
Comphausbad-Strasse, corresponds with 
what in other watering-places is called 
the Kursaal. The lower story is occu- 
pied by print and music shops, by a 
restaurant, and a reading-room, where 
the principal European newspapers are 
to be found. In the grand suite of 



Rhenish Prussia, 



ROUTE 36. — AIX. BORCETTE. 



241 



apartments balls are given once or twice 
a-week during the season, but they 
are principally devoted to gambling. — 
Games of hazard, rouge-et-noir, rou- 
lette, &c, are carried on in them, not only 
by night but by day, from 11| in the 
morning till 1|, from 4| to 6|, and from 
9£ in the evening till 11 1. The tables 
are open to all comers except the in- 
habitants of the town and officers in the 
Prussian army, who are expressly for- 
bidden by a police order to play at the 
tables, and a police officer is stationed 
in each room to prevent the infringe- 
ment of this law ; but it is evaded 
nevertheless. The rooms are princi- 
pally frequented at noon, and after the 
theatre is over. Before 10 p.m. the 
lowest stake allowed is a thaler. Public 
gaming-tables are tolerated in no other 
spot in the Prussian dominions ; and 
are only suffered here in consideration 
of the benefit which the town derives 
from the number of strangers whom 
they annually attract, and who would 
resort elsewhere if gaming were pro- 
hibited. The tables are let out to a 
company, who are compelled to apply a 
large portion of their gains to the im- 
provement of the town and the walks 
in the neighbourhood. 

The Manufacture of Cloth, the most 
important in Aix-la-Chapelle, employs 
3000 persons in the town ; and more 
than 12,000 in it and its immediate 
neighbourhood are occupied in prepar- 
ing the wool. There are about 2000 
needlemakers in the town, and it con- 
tains a large manufactory of spinning 
machinery. Nearly 50 large factories 
are in activity at Aix and Burtscheid. 

At Mayer's Library a book is kept in 
which the addresses of English visiters 
to Aix are entered. Here are to be 
found English newspapers. H. Benrath 
has a well-furnished library and music- 
shop. He keeps the subscription book 
for the English Church. 

The Boulevard, above alluded to, is 
a pleasant promenade, occupying the 
place of the levelled ditch and walls of 
the town, prettily laid out, shaded by 
fine trees. The Environs of Aix abound 
in beautiful walks. A pleasant walk of 
f m. from the gates of Aix leads by an 
avenue of trees to 

[n. g.] 



Borcette (Germ. Burtscheid), a small 
town of 5000 inhab. and a watering- 
place. On the way the noble viaduct 
is passed, which carries the Cologne 
railway (p. 242) over the valley of 
Burtscheid. Persons intending to take 
the waters, and desiring retirement, 
will find this a less expensive place of 
residenoe than Aix. Inns : Bain de la 
Bose (Rosenbad), tolerable ; baths and 
a table-d'hdte ; — H. St, Charles, good ; 
— Bain de l'Epee, an old castle converted 
into an hotel ; board and lodging less 
than 5 fr. per day. 

The principal source, called Fontaine 
bouillante, Kochbrunnen, is hotter than 
any at Aix (179° Fahrenheit) ; it re- 
sembles the Aix waters in its contents, 
but, while they are nauseous from the 
taste of sulphur, this is almost tasteless : 
all that can be detected is a slightly 
saline flavour, by no means disagree- 
able. It rises in the open air in the 
middle of the principal street. Burt- 
scheid also contains springs of saline 
water not unlike that of "Wiesbaden. 
The hot springs are so copious that the 
rivulet formed by the union of them 
runs warm ; — das Warme Bach. 

About half a mile N. of Aix, on the 
opposite side to Borcette, beyond the 
Sandkaul Thor, is the hill called the 
Louisberg, or Lousberg, 200 ft. high, 
surmounted by a pyramid or obelisk, 
raised for trigonometrical purposes, near 
which a beautiful view is obtained of Aix, 
of the line of the Bailway, and along 
the rich valley (Suersthal) strewn with 
country houses. The white pilgrimage 
church on the Salvatorsberg is a con- 
spicuous object. The summit of the 
Louisberg may be reached in \ hr. by 
an easy carriage-road, and between 4 
and 5 crowds of people flock thither. 
On the lower slope stands a handsome 
Restaurant and Cafe, the Belvedere, 
with a saloon commanding a noble 
prospect. 

About 3 m. off is a very pretty 
garden, called Kaisersruhe. On the way 
thither is Tivoli, an agreeable pleasure- 
ground. About 2^ m. from Aix, on 
the road to Treves (Rte. 43), is Schloss 
Schonforst, one of the finest ruins in the 
vicinity of Aix. A pleasant walk, by 
the side of the Wurm rivulet, is to tho 

M 



242 



EOUTE 36. — RAILWAY TO COLOGNE. 



Sect. IV. 



Frankenburg, described below, 1 m. dis- 
tant from the Adalbertsthor. 

About 2 m. out of Aix, on the rt. of 
the post-road to Cologne, is the chateau 
of Kalkofen, in which General Eliott, 
the brave defender of Gibraltar, died, 
having killed himself, it is said, by an 
excessive use of the waters. 

Carriages for hire are expensive at Aix; 
between 4 and 6 dollars are asked per 
diem. 2 \ fr, an hour, with pour boire 
to driver. There are droskies and omni- 
buses at the railway, § 20 A. 

Schnellposts (§ 50) to Diisseldorf, 
Maestricht, and Treves (Bte. 43), and 
Crefeld. • 

Railroads — to Cologne, trains 4 times 
a-day in 2| hrs. ; to Liege 4 times a- 
day ; to Brussels and Antwerp 3 times, 
and to Ostend twice a-day, in 12 hrs. 
To Maestricht begun; one direct to 
Diisseldorf is about to be constructed. 

Railroad to Cologne, 9~33 G. m. = 71 
kilometres, or 43§ Eng. m. 

The terminus stands midway between 
Aix-la-Chapelle and Borcette. A noble 
Viaduct, 8:92 ft. long and 70 ft. high in 
the centre, consisting of 2 tiers of 15 
small and 20 large brick arches, carries 
the railway from the station across the 
narrow valley of the Wurmbach, in 
which Borcette is built. A good view 
is obtained, a little beyond it, of Aix- 
la - Chapelle, and the Lousberg be- 
hind. 

(1.) Close by the side of the railway, 
1 m. from Aix, stands the Castle of 
Frankenburg ■, an ivy-clad and ruined 
tower of considerable antiquity, to 
which a more modern edifice (date 
1642) is attached. Charlemagne is 
said to have founded and inhabited a 
castle on this spot ; and here, accord- 
ing to the legend, died his beloved 
queen Fastrada. He caused her body 
to be enclosed in a coffin of glass, 
and never quitted it day or night, 
neglecting the concerns of his empire, 
and abandoning himself wholly to grief, 
until Turpin the Wise, watching one 
day until he slept, opened the coffin, 
took off the golden wedding ring from 
the dead queen's finger, threw it into 
the castle moat, and thus released the 
emperor from the spell of sorrow. 

(1.) The village Nirm is seen just 



before we enter the cutting leading to 
the Nirmer Tunnel, a costly work, 
though only 327 yards long, which 
carries the railway through the basin of 
hills which surrounds Aix. Traversing 
a beautiful wood called Beichswald, we 
reach 

1*35 rt. Stolberg Stat. (Hissels and 
"Welties Inns.) Stolberg, a manufac- 
turing town of 3000 inhab., lies about 
3 m. S. of this, up a valley studded 
with mills, forges, and country seats. 
The town is surmounted by a pic- 
turesque old castle on the top of the 
hill. The principal manufacture is that 
of brass, and the conversion of it into 
wire, &c. Zinc is obtained from mines 
in the vicinity. 

The district traversed by the railway, 
and in which Stolberg lies, is a pro- 
ductive coalfield, supplying numerous 
manufactories of iron and glass, &c. 
It is scattered over with houses, steam- 
engines, and chimneys. 

1. and rt. The village Pumpe, which 
includes extensive iron- works, is inha- 
bited chiefly by coal-miners, and re- 
ceives its name from the steam-engines 
used to pump water out of the coalmine 
near to which the railroad passes. Ex- 
cellent coal is furnished hence, and is 
much used by the steamboats on the 
Rhine. Some of the shafts are more 
than 1000 ft. deep. 

After crossing the Inde, the small 
stream flowing out of the vale of Stol- 
berg, a second tunnel of no great length, 
driven through the rock of the Ichen- 
berg in a curve, brings the railroad to 

"43 1. Eschweiler stat. Inn: Post. 
This is an industrious town of 3600 
inhab., on the Inde, having manufac- 
tures of silk, iron, wire, &c, and an old 
picturesque castle close to the railway, 
on the L, restored in the ancient style, 
and rendered habitable by a private 
gentleman. 

The fortress of Julich (p. 253) is 
about 9 m. from this stat. 

We next pass 1. the old Castle of 
Nothberg, flanked by 4 round towers. 
From the top of a high embankment a 
good view is obtained of the pleasing 
vale of the Inde, which is finally con- 
cealed by the sides of the deep cutting 
leading to 



Rhenish Prussia, route 36. — duren. cologne. 



243 



1*05 Langerwehe Stat. A viaduct of 
7 arches conveys the railroad over the 
vale of the "VVehe beyond this stat. On 
the rt., after coming out of the cutting 
beyond this, He the village and castle 
Merode, with 4 towers at the angles, 
2 high and 2 low, capped with irregu- 
larly shaped spires. This is the cradle 
of a family still existing in Belgium, 
one of whose ancestors, in the 30 years' 
war, was leader of a free corps in the 
Imperial army, distinguished above all 
others for its insubordination, habits of 
plunder, and brutality. The name 
" Merodeurer" became a by- word for 
a plunderer, and a name of terror so 
widely understood, that it has been 
adopted even in our own language in 
the word " marauder," properly applied 
to undisciplined soldiers, who desert 
their corps to steal. 

The railway is carried through the 
midst of the village Dhorn, and a little 
to the 1. of Gurzenich, before it crosses, 
by a bridge of 6 arches, the Ruhr, a 
river well known in strategic history, 
especially in the revolutionary French 
campaign of 1792-3, 

Less than 1 m. beyond the Ruhr 
lies 

1-25 Diiren Stat — Ims : Post 
(Pfalzer Hof), good.; Bellevue; Es- 
ser's, near the railroad, new and best. 
Diiren is a town of 8000 inhab,, devoted 
to manufactures, the chief of which are 
of cloth and paper. The Ch. of St. Anne, 
with a high tower, possesses the head 
of that saint enclosed in a strong box. 
A Protestant church has been recently 
built. Charles W, was nearly killed by 
a shot fired from the walls by a towns- 
man, as he was besieging Diiren, which 
he took and destroyed, after an ob- 
stinate resistance, with a force amount- 
ing to 61,800 men, in the year 1543. 
Diiren owes its origin and name to the 
Roman station Marcodurum, mentioned 
by Tacitus, There is nothing very 
remarkable in the town. [A pleasant 
excursion may be made up the valley 
of the Ruhr to the picturesque village 
Niedeggen, 8 m. S. of Diiren, seated 
on the summit of a lofty rock, com- 
manding an extensive view, including 
the battle-field of Ziilpich (Tolbiacum), 
where Clovis defeated the Alemanni, 



a.d. 496, and, becoming a convert to 
Christianity, was baptized, it is said, in 
the font still preserved in the venerable 
crypt under the parish church, Ziilpich 
is about 10 m, S, E. of Diiren,] 

A cutting nearly 3 m, long carries 
the railway through the high ground 
which separates the basin of the Meuso 
from that of the Rhine, It terminates 
a little way short of 

1-25 BuirStat, 

The railroad is carried by a high 
embankment over the lowlands of the 
valley of the Erft, which river is crossed 
on 3 bridges a little before reaching 

1'5 Horrem Stat. 

1. Beyond the village rises the Castle 
of Frenz, whose ancient owners were 
descended from one of the 15 noble 
families of Cologne who traced their 
descent from colonists established in 
that city by the Emperor Trajan, a.d. 
1081 

The railway passes from the valley 
of the Erft into that of the Rhine by 
the Konigsdorfer Tunnel, 1 m. long, 
carried through a hill of sand 136 ft. 
below the summit, and lined with 
brick. 

•67. Konigsdorf Stat, 

Close beyond this th« high road from 
Cologne to Jiilich is crossed. 

The low range of hills under which 
we have just passed is called Ville, a 
name derived, it is said, from the Roman 
inhabitants of Cologne, who built their 
villas on these genial slopes above the 
Rheinthal. 

•88. Mungersdorf Stat, 

A fine view is presented of Cologne, 
with its many towers and steeples ; 
conspicuous among which rises the oc- 
tagon of St,' Gereon. Just where the 
railroad arrives abreast of the walls, it 
passes (rt.) one of the detached forts, 
half-buried towers, a la Montalambcrt, 
each capable of mounting 100 guns, 
forming part of the defences of the city, 
and a second, on the 1., shortly before 
reaching the 

•95. Cologne Terminus, which is on 
the 1. bank of the Rhine, below the 
city, and 3 m. distant from the stat, of 
the Bonn Railway. Omnibuses convey 
travellers to the several hotels. Cabs, 
called Droskies, Germ. Droschken, 

M 2 



244 



ROUTE 36. — COLOGNE. HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS. Sect. IV. 



stand for hire. After passing along the 
winter harbour, a dock to protect vessels 
from the ice, Cologne ia entered by the 
Eigelsteins Thor, an old fortified gate- 
way which is inconveniently narrow. 

Cologne (Germ. Kbln, Dutch Keu- 
len) . Inns : On the Ehine Quay, close 
to the steamers, are — Bheinischer Hof, 
clean and well conducted, though dear ; 
Grand Hotel Eoyal, very good; Hol- 
landischer Hof; Hotel de Cologne. In 
the middle of the town are — the H6tel 
Disch, Briicken Strasse, recommended ; 
Kaiserlicher Hof, near the post-office ; 
Mainzer Hof, near the diligence office. 
Inns in Deutz, on the opposite side of 
the Ehine : Hotel de Bellevue, excel- 
lent, commanding from its front win- 
dows a fine view of Cologne, and not 
far from the station of the Minden, Han- 
over, and Berlin Eailway ; Prinz Karl. 
These two inns have gardens overlooking 
the river, in which there is commonly 
music every evening in summer. 

Droskies (cabs) 15-20 S. gr. the 
hour ; a drive of 15-20 min., with 
1 or 2 persons, 5 S. gr. ; with 3 or 4, 
10 S. gr. 

Cologne is a fortified town on the 
1. bank of the Ehine. Pop. 85,000 
(7000 Protestants), including Deutz, 
its suburb, and Tete de Pont, on the 
rt. bank, with which it is connected by 
a boat bridge 1400 ft. long. It is the 
largest and wealthiest city on the 
Ehine, and a free port. 

Cologne owes its existence to a camp 
pitched here by the Eomans, under 
Marcus Agrippa, which was afterwards 
enlarged and rendered permanent by 
the removal, under Tiberius, of a native 
tribe, called the Ubii, from the rt. bank 
of the Ehine (Tacitus, Ann. I. 36), and 
their settlement at the spot now occu- 
pied by Cologne. This first city was 
called Civitas Ubiorum. More than 80 
years after, Agrippina, mother of Nero, 
sent hither a colony of Eoman veterans, 
and gave to it her own name, calling it 
Colonia Agrippina. A part of its ancient 
appellation is still retained in the modern 
name of Cologne. 

Cologne abounds in historical asso- 
ciations. Traces of the possession of 
this city by the Eomans remain, not 
only in various fragments of walls, 



originally part of the outer defences, 
though now far within the city, and in 
the numerous altars, inscriptions, coins, 
&c, which come to light almost wher- 
ever the ground is turned up, but even 
in the features and complexions of its 
inhabitants, who are said to betray 
their hereditary blood, and to differ 
considerably from their German neigh- 
bours. The inhabitants were so proud 
of their Eoman origin, that up to the 
time of the French revolution the 
higher citizens styled themselves patri- 
cians — the 2 burgomasters wore the 
consular toga, and were attended by 
lictors — while the town banners bore 
the pompous inscription S. P. Q. C. 
The foundations of the Eoman walls 
may be traced in the very heart of the 
present city through the street Auf der 
Burgmauer, by the Zeughaus — by the 
Klarenthurm, a tower of brick in opus 
reticulatum, called Eoman, though really 
a work of the Franks, but standing on 
the Eoman wall ; thence through nu- 
merous gardens past the Apostles' church 
to the Lach, where is another so-called 
Eoman tower, and the Marsilstein; 
thence eastward to St. Mary's Church, 
where the capitol stood; thence past 
the Eathhaus, which occupies the site 
of the Eoman Prsetorium, to the 
Dom. 

The existing outer walls of Cologne 
present one of the most perfect exam- 
ples of the fortifications of the middle 
ages, with picturesque flanking towers 
and gate-houses. They were built be- 
tween the 12th and 15th cent. The 
greater part is probably of about the 
year 1185. The extent of Cologne along 
the bank of the Ehine, from the tower 
at the upper end called the Bayen- 
thurm, down to the small tower at the 
lower end called the Thtirruchen, is 
about 2^ Eng. m., and the extent round 
the wall on the land side between these 
same towers is about 4^ Eng. m. 

Agrippina, mother of Nero, was born 
here, in the camp of her father Ger- 
manicus ; Trajan here received the 
summons to assume the Imperial pur- 
ple ; Vitellius and Sylvanus were pro- 
claimed Emperors of Eome on the spot, 
and the latter was murdered in the 
Capitol. At a later period, 508, Clovis 



1 Cathedra 

2 St Peters 

3 S. TTrsulc 

4 Jesuits i 

5 & Maria 

6 Apostles 

7 Sf Gereon 



8 S* Marti i 

9 S*Cu»m 

10 srjhm 

11 Minorite) 

12 S? George 

13 StSeverv 

15 St Andrea 



18 ElnidskijrJie 

19 £ Cecilia 

20S.ALban, 

21 Museum. 

EatJiaus 



, Gereoiis Th.or 



H 

23 Kuifltaus D 4 

24 Zeugluuis ■._ F 3 

25 Arrest Juzus G 3 

Ha am, Eimierthumv... F 2 

27 amlach D 2 

28 Bonn Hallway 
B 2 



29 ^za- -Za - Chapelle 
Railway Station H G> 

30 Cologne & Minden 
EaUwav}' Station. F 7 

31 Jiilichs Mate E 4 

32 Landing place of the 
DusseJdorf Steamers D 5 

33 J) ? of tiw Cologne. 



Steamers D 6 

34 Post Office. E 3 

[35 Police- Office, E 3 

36 Post horse Establ t E 3 




3 «reaThoi 



■• 



1 Cttthfilral 

2 Stjb&rs 

3 .s.rivii/ii 

4 Jrsuit.r Ck ■ 

5 S-Mtiria ui (tipitol 

6 AftosHcn' Ch . 

7 Sf&non 



8 s.' Martin 
!' S' ('tmilxrf 

10 S? Tantalum 

11 Minorites Ov. 

12 SfCanye 
L'i StSevain 
W SfMauriee 

IB S'.A,„hr» 




ft * \23 Kmflutus 
D3 ^4Z<»(,/„„„ 
- E 4 25 Arrrst luau 
1 4 3fi am lliiinrrthru-m 
K & 27 tunLarh 

28A.W, Itailmiy 

Station jj 2 



12 



29 J/> /„ ChufMlr 

Baikeap Station U ff 
.K) Cologne. &lBndai 

Jiai/n-qv Station F 7 

31 JiilichiMabt E 4 
3J Landing place of the 

Duaeeldarf Steamen D 5 
,<! V? of the Cologne 

Steammv a i\ 

34 But (>&.*■ e a 

X. n.lin- tWnv li 3 

:«', Buthena Esutbl ' £ .') 




Rhenish Prussia. ROUTE 36.— cologne, commerce. 



245 



was declared king of the Franks at 
Cologne. From the middle of the 12th 
nearly to the end of the 15th cent., 
Cologne was the most flourishing city 
of Northern Europe, one of the chief 
emporiums of the Hanseatic League, 
concentrating the trade of the East, 
and keeping up a direct and constant 
communication with Italy. From this 
connection, not only the productions, 
hut also the arts of the East, were at 
once transferred to the then remote 
West of Europe. The architecture of 
many of the oldest churches is identical 
with that of Italv, and there is some 
similarity between the paintings of the 
early Italian and Rhenish schools ; it is 
even probable that the Southern school 
of art was indebted to the artists of the 
North for some portion of its excellence. 
" In the middle ages, from its wealth, 
power, and the considerable ecclesiasti- 
cal foundations of its bishops, it was 
often called the Rome of the North." — 
Hope, Another relic of the ancient al- 
liance with Italy is the Carnival, which 
is celebrated here, and nowhere else 
in the N. of Europe, in the same 
manner, and almost with as much spirit 
and pomp of masquerading, &c, as in 
Rome or Venice. The procession of 
masks is tolerated even in the streets 
here, and in one or two other towns of 
the Rhenish provinces, as an ancient 
custom. Another amusement common 
in Italy, but found nowhere in Ger- 
many but at Cologne, is the Puppet 
Theatre (Puppen Theater — Hfflfmes- 
chen), Blind - Gasse, near the Hay- 
market, where droll farces are per- 
formed by dolls ; and the dialogue, 
spoken in the patois of the country, 
and full of satirical local allusions, is 
carried on by persons concealed behind 
the scenes. 

Cologne has an interest for the Eng- 
lishman, inasmuch as "William Caxton 
settled here, 1470, and here learned the 
art of printing, which he speedily trans- 
ferred to his own country. 

In 1259 Cologne obtained the staple 
right by which all vessels were com- 
pelled to unload here, and ship their 
cargoes in Cologne bottoms. The Co- 
logne merchants enjoyed important pri- 
vileges in England ; Henry VI. granted 



them the exclusive use of the Guildhall 
in London. After its period of pros- 
perity and splendour, during which the 
city could send forth 30,000 fighting 
men, came the season of decay. Com- 
merce took a new route across the con- 
tinent of Europe, and Cologne fell under 
the blighting domination of priests. 
The uncontrolled sway of bigoted ec- 
clesiastical rulers, on 3 occasions, 
marred its prosperity, and finally com- 
pleted its downfall. The first injurious 
act of intolerance was the persecution 
and expulsion of the Jews, 1425 ; the 
second, the banishment of the weavers ; 
and the third, the expatriation of the 
Protestants, 1618. The injury done to 
the city by these arbitrary acts is best 
proved by the desolate condition to 
which they reduced it, contrasted with 
the increasing prosperity of Aix-la- 
Chapelle, Verviers, Elberfeld, Dussel- 
dorf, Muhlheim, Solingen, and other 
cities, in which the exiles, victims of 
these persecutions, who were almost 
invariably the most industrious and 
useful citizens, settled themselves. 
During this period the number of 
churches and convents multiplied enor- 
mously. Cologne is said to have had 
as many steeples as there were days in 
the year ; there are still 20 churches 
here. Before the French revolution, 
the number of buildings devoted to re- 
ligious uses was 200 ; she is now con- 
tent with 29, but many of the buildings 
remain, applied to the secular purposes 
to which the French first turned them. 
2500 of the inhab. were ecclesiastics ; 
and, as a natural consequence, more 
than twice that number were beggars, 
who subsisted principally on the monks. 
The French revolution nowhere created 
a greater change than here ; the rich 
foundations were all plundered, the 
convents secularised, the churches 
stripped, and converted into warehouses 
and stables. 

The transport of corn and Rhenish 
wine down the Rhine, and into the 
neighbouring countries of Holland, 
Belgium, and Westphalia, employs a 
great many vessels and persons. There 
are considerable sugar refineries here. 

Of late years trade has greatly re- 
vived ; improvements have followed in- 



246 



ROUTE 36. — COLOGNE. CATHEDRAL. 



Sect, IV. 



creasing prosperity, and- under the Prus- 
sian government the town is throwing 
off the dirty and gloomy appearance for 
which it was notorious, Many of the 
streets have heen widened and pared, 
new streets and houses built, and old 
ones repaired;: and some of the tho- 
roughfares boast of traffic and crowds 
like those of London. A large portion 
of the space enclosed within the walls, 
formerly the fields and gardens of con- 
ventual houses, is rapidly becoming 
covered with buildings. 

One of the leading causes of the de- 
cline of the prosperity of Cologne in the 
16th cent., was the closing of the na- 
vigation of the Rhine by the Dutch. 
This restriction was removed in 1837, 
pursuant to treaty, and Cologne now 
trades directly with the countries be- 
yond sea. Seagoing vessels are con- 
structed here. A new quay with bonded 
warehouses has been constructed just 
below the bridge. Seagoing vessels lie 
alongside. The yearly increasing pros- 
perity, fostered by the continuance of 
peace, and augmented by the conver- 
gence to this point of the Railroads 
from Paris, Antwerp, and Berlin, have 
caused Cologne again to raise her head 
high among the chief cities of Europe. 
This huge carcase of ruined buildings 
and vacant enclosures, revived by in- 
creasing wealth,, is swelling out into its 
former proportions, and flomishing both 
in population and industry.. 

The objects of interest in Cologne 
being spread over a wide space, the fol- 
lowing plan for seeing them in succes- 
sion, without retracing his steps, may 
be useful to the stranger : — 

Begin with the Cathedral : close to it 
is the Museum ; thence by the Jesuits' 
Church (a gorgeous combination of 
Gothic and Italian architecture) to St. 
Ursula (the curious in architecture 
should visit St. Cunibert's) ; from St. 
Ursula to St. Gereon ; pass the Roman (?) 
Tower to the Apostles' Church ; to St. 
Peter's, St. Mary's in the Capitol, the 
Giirzenich, and the Rathhaus, which 
completes the circuit. 

The Cathedral (Domkirche), though 
begun in 1248, by Archbp. Conrad of 
Hochsteden, has remained up to the 
present time a fragment, and had very 



nearly become a ruin.. The choir was- 
consecrated in 1322 : but in 1509 a stop 
was put to its further progress. Had 
the original plan been completed (views- 
of the intended edifice are to be pro- 
cured), it would have been the St. 
Peter's of Gothie architecture. Even 
in its : present state, it is one of the finest 
and purest Gothic monuments in Eu- 
rope. It is to be regretted that the 
name of the great architect who de- 
signed so splendid a structure has been 
lost : one Master Gerhard, who was 
living 1252, is the- builder earliest 
named, but nothing is known of him- 
The 2 principal towers, according to 
the original designs, were to have been, 
raised to the height of 500 ft. That 
which is most finished at present is not 
above one-third of the height. On its 
top still remains the crane employed by 
the masons to raise the stones for the 
building. And it has stood for cen- 
turies. It was once taken down ; but a 
tremendous thunder-storm, which oc- 
curred soon after, was attributed to its 
removal by the superstitious citizens, 
and it was therefore instantly replaced, 
or a similar one set up in its stead. 
Its permanent presence there may have 
indicated that the idea of completing 
this noble structure was not abandoned ;. 
and until recently (1849), its comple- 
tion appeared probable even in the 
present generation. 

From 1824 to 1842, 215,000 thalers 
had been laid out on the building by the 
late aCd present Kings of Prussia. AH 
this, however, was expended merely in 
repairs rendered indispensable by long 
ages of neglect. This restoration has 
been conducted in a masterly manner, 
the faulty stone from the Drachenfels, 
on the exterior, replaced by another of 
a sounder texture, and the workman- 
ship in the new sculpture and masonry 
is at least equal to the old. The stone 
used is no longer that of the Drachen- 
fels, but is brought from Andernach and 
Treves, and is of volcanic origin. 

A fresh impulse was given to the 
works on the accession of the present 
King, who contributed more largely to 
its funds, and on 4th Sept. 1842 laid 
the foundation stone of the transept, 
An Association also, called pom^bnu 



Rhenish Prussia, route 36. — cologne, cathedral. 



247 



Verein, has been established, with 
branches in all parts of Europe, to col- 
lect subscriptions for completing the 
edifice according to the original design. 
The architect, Zwirner, estimates the 
cost of finishing it at 2,000,000 dollars 
for the nave, transepts, &c, and 
3,000,000 doll, for the towers and fa- 
cade; in all 750,000Z. In Sept. 1848, 
the nave, aisles, and transepts were 
thrown open ; a temporary wooden 
roof covering in the nave and transept 
just above the triforium.. The ends of 
the transepts are nearly completed, 
and the 2 portals, especially that on the 
S. side, are very fine. The piers which 
are to support the real roof are making 
progress. It is possible, therefore, now 
to judge of the full extent of the interior. 
The late King of Bavaria presented 
5 painted windows, which have been 
placed in the S. aisle of the nave. The 
5 painted windows in the N. aisle were 
executed in 1508 : the 4th from the W. 
entrance is the best- 

The entire length of the body of the 
church will be 511 ft., equal to the 
height of the Towers when finished; 
the breadth, 231 ft., corresponds with 
the height of the gable at the "W. end. 

" The Choir is the only part finished; 
161 ft. high, and internally, from its 
size, height, and disposition of pillars, 
arches, chapels, and beautifully coloured 
windows, resembling a splendid vision. 
Externally, its double range of stupen- 
dous flying buttresses, and intervening 
piers, bristling with a forest of purfled 
pinnacles, strike the beholder with awe 
and astonishment. If completed, this 
would be at once the most regular and 
most stupendous Gothic monument 
existing." — Hope. The fine stained 
windows of" the choir (14th cent.) have 
been thoroughly cleaned and repaired : 
and some concealed frescoes brought to 
light on the walls have caused them 
to be decorated afresh by Steinle and 
artists of the Dusseldorf school. Round 
the choir, against the columns, stand 14 
colossal statues of the 12 Apostles, the 
Virgin, and Saviour, gaudily coloured 
and gilt, sculptured in the beginning of 
the 14th cent. Of the same date are 
the finely carved stalls and seats of the 
choir. 



In a small chapel immediately behind 
the high altar is the celebrated Shrine 
of the Three Kings of Cologne, or Magi, 
who came from the East with presents 
for the infant Saviour. Their bones 
were carried off from S. Eustorgio at 
Milan by the Emp. Frederic Barbarossa, 
when he took that city by storm (1162), 
and were presented by him to Rainaldo 
Archbp. of Cologne, who had accom- 
panied him on his warlike expedition. — 
N. Italy Hdbk. 166. The case in which 
they are deposited is of plates of silver 
gilt, and curiously wrought, surrounded 
by small arcades, supported on pillars, 
enclosing figures of the Apostles and 
Prophets. The vast treasures which 
once decorated it were sadly diminished 
at the time of the French revolution, 
when the shrine and its contents were 
transported for safety by the chapter to 
Arnsberg, in Westphalia. Many of the 
jewels were sold to maintain the persons 
who accompanied it, and have been re- 
placed by paste or glass imitations ; but 
the precious stones, the gems, cameos, 
and rich enamels which still remain, 
will give a fair notion of its riches and 
magnificence in its original state. The 
skulls of the three kings, inscribed with 
their names — Gasper, Melchior, and 
Balthazer — written in rubies, are ex- 
hibited to view through an opening in 
the shrine, crowned with diadems (a 
ghastly contrast), which were of gold, 
and studded with real jewels, but are 
now only silver gilt. Among the an- 
tiques still remaining are 2, of Leda, 
and Cupid and Psyche, very beautiful. 
On the front of the shrine are these 2 
monkish leonine lines, asserting the 
possession of the entire royal remains, 
against all rival proprietors of relics : — 

Corpora sanctorum reeubant hie tenia Mago- 

rum, 
Ex his sublatum nihil est, alibive loeatum. 

Those who show the tomb assert that 
its treasures are still worth 6 millions 
of francs == 240,000?. : this is an exag- 
geration, no doubt. 

This shrine is opened to the public 
gaze on Sundays and festivals; but 
those who desire to see it at other times, 
or to have a nearer and more minute view 
of it, must apply to the sacristan, and 



248 



ROUTE 36,— COLOGNE. ST. PETER'S. 



Sect. IV, 



pay a fee of 1^ th., which admits a 
party to see it and the sacristy. Tickets 
at 15 S. gr. each are taken from the 
verger to see the choir, Dombild, and 
altars : 20 S. gr. are paid for ascending 
to the roof. 

Under a slab in the pavement, be- 
tween the high altar and the shrine of 
the three kings, the heart of Mary of 
Medicis is buried. In the adjoining 
side chapels around the choir are se- 
veral monuments of Archbishops of 
Cologne ; the most remarkable are those 
of Conrad of Hochsteden (its founder), 
of bronze (1261), and that of Philip of 
Heinsberg (1191), surrounded by a 
mural parapet, to signify that he built 
the walls of Cologne. 

In the side chapel of St. Agnes, on 
the right of the Magi, is a very ancient 
painting, in distemper, called the Dom- 
bild (the Cathedral picture), bearing the 
date 1410. It represents the Patron 
Saints of the city of Cologne, viz. — in 
the centre, the Adoration of the Magi, 
or the Three Kings ; on the one side, 
St. Ursula and the 11,000 Virgins ; on 
the other, St. Gereon with the Theban 
Legion. It is a masterly production 
for so early a period. The artist is not 
known, but is conjectured to be Stephen 
of Cologne, a pupil of Master William 
of Cologne, mentioned in the Limburg 
Chronicle as the best painter in Ger- 
many. 

In the Sacristy are many relics of 
Saints, including a bone of St. Mat- 
thew ; St. Engelbert's shrine of silver, 
ornamented with reliefs of good work- 
manship, date 1635; some church plate, 
and the like curiosities — among them the 
Sword of Justice, with a finely chased 
scabbard, borne by the Electors of 
Cologne at the coronation of the 
Emperor ; 10 elaborate carvings in 
ivory ; the State Cross of the Arch- 
bishop, 7 ft. high, ornamented with 
enamel ; and a Pax of solid gold, 5 in. 
by 4. 

It is well worth while to climb up 
to the triforium gallery to appreciate 
the grandeur of the edifice, and to 
examine the painted glass ; or even to 
mount to the roof for the sake of the 
view of the town, and of the exterior 
of the edifice. No one should omit like- 



wise to visit the workshops (Bauhiitteri), 
to inspect the sculptured capitals, 
bosses, &c. prepared for the new build* 
ings : 20 S. gr. entrance. 

The best description of the Dom is 
that by Binzer. There is an excellent 
view of the Dom as intended to be com- 
pleted, from Zwirner's design, pub- 
lished by Elsen. 

The Church of St. Peter contains the 
famous altar-piece of the Crucifixion of 
that Saint, with his head downwards, 
by Rubens, who presented it to this 
church, in which he was baptized. The 
picture usually exposed to view is a 
copy made when the original was car- 
ried to Paris ; but for a fee of 15 S. gr. 
(for a party), the sacristan will turn 
the picture round, and display the ori- 
ginal at the back of the copy. On 
Sundays and festivals the original is 
turned outwards. " It was painted a 
little time before Eubens's death. The 
body and head of the Saint are the only 
good parts in this picture, which is 
finely coloured (broad light and shade), 
and well drawn ; but the figure bends 
too suddenly from the thighs, which 
are ill drawn, or rather in a bad taste 
of drawing ; as is likewise his arm, 
which has a short interrupted outline. 
The action of the malefactors (execu- 
tioners) has not that energy which he 
usually gave to his figures. Rubens, 
in his letters to Gildorp, expresses his 
own approbation of this picture, which 
he says was the best he ever painted : 
he likewise expresses his content and 
happiness in the subject, as being pic- 
turesque ; this is likewise natural to 
such a mind as that of Rubens, who 
was, perhaps, too much looking about 
him for the picturesque or something 
uncommon. A man with his head 
downwards is certainly a more extra- 
ordinary object than in its natural 
place. Many parts of this picture are 
so feebly drawn, and with so tame a 
pencil, that I cannot help suspecting 
that Rubens died before he had com- 
pleted it, and that it was finished by 
some of his scholars."— ■&> J. Reynolds. 
" The composition is the best part of 
this picture : the bringing of the figures 
together is most original and skilful, 
and presents the difficulty of a bad sub- 



Rhenish Prussia, r. 36. — st. Ursula. Jesuits, santa maria. 249 



ject overcome. Still the painting, ex- 
cept in the left shoulder and hreast of 
the Saint, is below the usual run of 
this great master ; though done indeed 
with great power, yet in the drawing 
of the figures the indication of anatomy 
is far from good." — Wilkie. The 3 
painted E. windows are fine, repre- 
senting — 1. Christ bearing his Cross; 
2. Crucifixion; 3. Descent from the 
Cross. They were executed 1528- 
1530. 

The brazen font in which Rubens 
was baptized still exists in this church. 

The Ch. of St. Ursula, and of the 
1 1,000 Virgins (built partly in the 12th, 
partly in the 14th and 15th cent.), 
is too singular a sight not to be visited. 
It is situated just within the walls, and 
is not remarkable in its architecture, 
but is filled with the bones of St. Ur- 
sula's companions. That saintly lady 
(according to the legend, a princess of 
Brittany or Armorica) set sail with her 
virgin train from Brittany for Rome, 
and sailed up the Rhine to Bale, whence 
she proceeded to Rome, on her return 
from which place the whole party was 
slaughtered at Cologne by the barbarian 
Huns, because they refused to break 
their vows of chastity. (See p. 123, 
and the Cologne version of the story, 
for there are many versions, in Mrs. 
Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art, 
vol. ii. p. 115.) On entering the church 
these hideous relics meet the eye, 
beneath, above, around : they are built 
into the walls, buried under the pave- 
ment, and displayed in gaunt array in 
glass cases about the choir. The Saint 
herself reposes in a coffin behind the 
altar, while the skulls of a select few 
of her associates are admitted to the 
Golden Chamber, encased in silver, along 
with a number of other relics, such as 
one of the stone vessels which held the 
water that was turned into wine at the 
Marriage in Cana, &c. A bad picture 
in the church represents the landing of 
this female army of Saints at Cologne. 
Some, who have been staggered at the 
number of Ursula's maiden train, have 
supposed that the legend arose from 
confounding the name of one of her 
attendants, Undecimilla, with the num- 
ber undccim millia (11,000). But it is 



hardly worth while to try to reduce the 
childish tales of the monks to the limits 
of probability, more especially as in the 
cyclical revolution of opinions they 
have again found admirers. The church 
contains a curious series of old German 
pictures of the Apostles painted on slate, 
1224. 

The Church of the Jesuits (Maria 
Himmelfahrt) dates from 1636, and, like 
others erected by the order, is over- 
loaded with gorgeous decorations of 
marble, sculpture, &c. It contains the 
crozier of St. Francis Xavier, and the 
rosary of St. Ignatius Loyola. Its 
bells were cast out of the cannon taken 
at Magdeburg by Tilly, and presented 
by him to this church. 

Travellers interested in architecture 
will find in Cologne many excellent 
examples of the round style, with some 
specimens of the transition style from 
the round to the pointed. Romanesque 
has been adopted as a general term to 
denote the round style ; Lombard, Nor- 
man, and Saxon, when speaking of it 
as varied in the countries to which 
those names refer. " The east ends of 
these [Romanesque] churches look like 
those of the Greeks, or the mosques of 
Constantinople." — Hope. The archi- 
tects who designed these earliest 
churches at Cologne, and many similar 
along the Rhine, had evidently studied 
the Lombard churches of Pavia, which 
became familiar to the inhabitants of 
the banks of the Rhine by the residence 
of the Carlovingian Emperors in that 
capital of their Italian dominions (Hbk. 
for N. Italy, p. 208; Gaily Knight, 
Eccles. Archit. of Italy, vol. i. ; Bois- 
seree, Denkmale der Baukunst am 
Nieder-Rhein). The architectural tra- 
veller will visit Sta. Maria in Capitolio, 
the Ch. of the Apostles, St. Gereon, 
St. Martin, St. Cunibert, and St. Pan- 
taleon. 

Santa Maria in Capitolio, so called 
from its occupying the site of the capitol 
of the Roman city, stands on a height 
surmounted by a flight of steps. The 
Frankish kings had a palace here, to 
which, in 696, Plectrudis, the wife of 
Pepin of Heristal, retired, having sepa- 
rated from her husband on account of 
his attachment to Alpais, the mother of 

M 3 



250 FvOurE 36.— -cologne, the apostles', st. geeeon's. Sect. IV. 



Charles Martel. She, in 700, removed 
the capitol, and built a church and a 
nunnery on its site. It has been con- 
tended that the existing church is nearly 
entirely of that period. It is more pro- 
bable that the greater part at least was 
built about 1000. Observe the upper 
circuit of the choir, both inside and 
outside. Inside, the coupled columns, 
with their rich arabesque capitals, are 
in -the style of the 11th or 12th cent. ; 
outside, the wall is crowned by a 
row of arches on small pillars. The 
transepts are in an older and plainer 
style. The lower windows of the choir 
have been filled with tracery of the 
latest period of the pointed style. The 
pointed vaulting of the nave is appa- 
rently a restoration of the latter part of 
the 14th cent. " Externally, in the 
same style with the Gh. of the Apostles ; 
internally resembling a Greek church 
still more, and, in fact, a counterpart 
of one existing among the ruins of 
Seleucia, since round its semicircular 
absides and east end run internally 
semicircrdar rows of columns support- 
ing round arches.''' — Hope. The effigy 
of Plectrudis, a very early work (10th 
cent.), is let into the wall outside of the 
choir. The doors of the M, transept, 
carved with scriptural subjects in relief, 
executed at the end of the 12th cent, at 
the latest, are very curious (compare 
the doors at Hildesheim);.. The walls 
of the Hardenrath chapel are covered 
with paintings by an old German master 
(1466) ; and the windows have some 
good stained glass. That of the Schwarz 
family, with groined vaulting, contains 
the brass font (1594), surmounted by a 
figure of St. Martin on horseback. A 
picture attributed to Albert Diirer is 
shown here,, but is. certainly not by him. 
The wajls of the crypt,, now a salt 
depot, are covered with ancient paint- 
ings nearly effaced. The. tower was 
built after 1637, when the old one fell. 
The convent has disappeared. A clois- 
ter of the 10th cent, remains and has 
been restored. 

The Apostles' Church, in the Neu- 
markt, was begun in 1020, and finished 
in 1035, It suffered from fire in 1098 
and 1199, and was partly rebuilt in 
the beginning of the 13th cent. It has 



a double transept.. To the earlier build- 
ing belong the choir, the eastern tran- 
sept and octagonal cupola, the 2 small 
towers, the lower part of the nave, 
and the great tower. The western 
transept and upper part of the nave are 
the parts rebuilt in the 13th cent. The 
vaulting of the nave, which had become 
ruinous, has been lately restored in 
wood, after the old pattern. This 
church has " 3 absides, or ^ circular 
cupolas, with slim octagonal steeples 
between them, rising undimdnished to 
the top, from the transepts and the 
choir. Their common centre is crowned 
by an octagonal cupola, which, as well 
as the 3 absides, is belted, imme- 
diately under the cornice, by galleries 
of small arches, on small columns, 
coupled in the depth of the arch, rest- 
ing on a panelled balustrade^ such as is 
displayed by all the other churches here 
and on the Rhine of the- same period, 
and covered with a low ribbed roof of 
lead, so as to present a striking resem- 
blance to some of the oldest Greek 
churches in some of the remotest parts 
of Asia Minor ; and at the same time in 
its proportions as airy and elegant, and 
calculated to magnify its. apparent size, 
as the heavy, clumsy, English- Saxon 
roof often does the contrary." — Hope. 

St.. G-ereoris Kirche., another ossuary, 
since it is lined with the bones of the 
Theban Legion of 6000 martyrs, slain, 
according to the legend told here, either 
on this spot or at Xanten (see p. 236), 
during the persecution of Diocletian, is 
one of the finest and most ancient 
churches in Cologne. The decagonal 
portion dates from 1212 ; the rest of the 
church, including the choir and the 
crypt, was built 1066-69. The earlier 
building is in the round style, except 
where some repairs were executed, as 
is thought, after a storm in 1434 ; the 
latter shows a preponderating mixture 
of the pointed. "By a singular and 
theatrical arrangement, arising out of 
these various increments, its body pre- 
sents a vast decagonal shell and cupola, 
the pillars of whose internal angles are 
prolonged in ribs, which, centering in 
a summit, meet in one point, and lead 
by a high and wide flight of steps, ris- 
ing opposite the entrance, to an altar 



Rhenish Prussia. route 36.' — churches., the museum. 



251 



and oblong choir behind it; whence 
other steps again ascend to the area 
between the 2 high square towers, and 
to the ^ circular east end, belted as well 
as the cupola by galleries with small 
arches and pillars, on a panelled balus- 
trade, in the style of the Ch. of the 
Apostles. The entrance-door, with 
square lintel, low pediment, and pointed 
arch, is elegant ; and the crypts (well 
worth visiting) show some remains of 
handsome mosaics." — Hope. The bap- 
tistery is a very elegant building, in the 
transition style of the decagonal church. 
It contains a font of porphyry, said to 
be a gift of Charlemagne. The sacristy, 
in the pointed style, is apparently of 
the 14th cent. It contains some painted 
glass. 

St. Martin. In 977 Archbp. Wa- 
rinus entirely rebuilt this church ; that 
founded by Pepin d'Heristal having 
fallen into decay. Of this building, the 
choir, the transepts, the central tower, 
and the aisles, remain. The tower was 
not, however, completed until the next 
cent., and the 2 small towers on the 
E. side of it were added in 1072. The 
upper part of the nave and the vestibule 
are in the oldest pointed style, having 
been built by the Abbot Gotschalk 
about 1172. The interior was modern- 
ised in 1790. In the church is an oc- 
tagonal font of white marble, a Roman 
work of the time of the Empire, and 
having apparently been a labrum of a 
bath. "St. Martin likewise shows, inter- 
nally, the Greek distribution." — Hope., 

Near St.. Gereon's is the Arresthaus, 
or new prison, built on the radiating 
panopticon plan. 

St.. Cunibert, finished in 1248, the 
year the Dom was begun, but in a 
style totally different from it, is a re-> 
markable instance of the adherence to 
the older style after the pointed style 
had become prevalent and perfect. The 
largest tower was burnt in 137&, and 
rebuilt in 1388, in the pointed style. 
It fell down in 1830, while undergoing 
repairs, and destroyed the vaulting of 
the adjoining parts of the nave and 
transepts : these have been restored. It 
contains the oldest painted glass in the 
country, of most glowing hues, and has 
an elegant portal. 



St. Pantaleon is in part, perhaps, the 
oldest Christian structure in Cologne, 
since the lower part of the great tower, 
and the walls connected with it, are 
probably not later than 980. It was 
built by Archbishop Bruno, with the 
materials of the Roman bridge and 
Castle of Deutz. The greater part of 
the present ch. is of the year 1622. It 
is now the Evangelic Garrison church, 
and its tower supports a telegraph.. 

In the Ch. of the Minorites (13th 
cent.) is the tomb of Duns Scotus, and a 
fine organ. 

St.. George, 1060-74. The vaulting 
is later : the choir is higher than the 
nave : there is a crypt, and a baptistery 
of 1200. 

The Museum (Trankgasse, No. 7, close 
to the cathedral; admittance fee 10 S. gr.. 
each person ; on Sundays and holidays 
it is open free from 10 to 12^) is chiefly 
occupied with works of art bequeathed 
by Prof. Wallraff to his native city, 
consisting of early specimens of the 
School of Cologne*, which, however, 
are unnamed and uncatalogued. Among 
the more remarkable are — the Last 
Judgment, by Master Stephan (1410) 
(the angels are painted of the brightest 
ultra-marine by this master and others 
of the same school) ;. the Death of the 
Virgin, by Schoreel; and a Descent from 
the Cross, by Israel von Mechencn 
(1488) ; also a Virgin and Child, and 
several others, by Master William of 
Cologne (1380). 

These pictures deserve attention as 
monuments of a school whose very 
existence was almost unknown till 
the present cent. We are now aware 
that, nearly simultaneously with the 
revival of painting in Italy, there sprang 
up a race of artists on the banks of the 
Rhine, and in the Netherlands, who 
succeeded in raising art from the de- 
gradation into which it had fallen in the 
hands of the Byzantine painters, to a 
comparative state of excellence ; and 
maintained that peculiar style which is 
seen in the greatest perfection in the 
works of Van Eyck, Hemling, and 
Schoreel.. In order to appreciate tho- 
roughly the works of the early German 

*• See Kvtgler's Handbook of Painting, $ xi. 



252 



ROUTE 36. — EAU DE COLOGNE. DEUTZ. 



Sect. IV. 



painters, it is necessary to see the 
Boisseree Collection, now in the Mu- 
nich Gallery, which was itself formed 
at Cologne. 

Among the pictures by modern 
artists, observe the Captive Jews at 
Babylon, by Bendemann, " no less re- 
markable for the simple beauty of the 
composition, than for the depth and 
earnestness' of feeling it expresses ;" the 
Convent Court, in a snow-storm, by 
Lessing, is also good. 

In the lower story are many Roman 
antiquities, some of which are curious 
as having been found in or near Co- 
logne ; besides these are several busts 
and statues, and one specimen of sculp- 
ture, distinguished as a work of Grecian 
art, of great beauty and value — it is 
the Head of Medusa, resembling the 
famous " Medusa Rondinini," in the 
Glyptothek at Munich, but larger, and 
it is said to be even finer. 

Those who take interest in Art will 
find many private collections of pictures 
here ; the most interesting being those 
of Messrs. Kerp (Johannes Strasse), 
Merlo (Unter Fettenhennen), Bau- 
meister, F. Zanoli, &c. &c. ; they are, 
however, for the most part, limited to 
works of the Old German masters. 

The Rathhaus (Town-hall) is a cu- 
rious building, erected at different pe- 
riods ; the Gothic tower, containing the 
Archives, in 1414 ; the marble portal, 
or double arcade, in the Italian style, 
in 1571 ; the ground-floor in the 13th 
cent. The interior contains nothing 
remarkable, but in the Gothic Hansa 
Saal, now closed, were held the meet- 
ings of that mercantile confederation 
which at one time carried on the com- 
merce of the world. 

In the ancient Kaufhaus or Giirze- 
nich (so called from the person who 
gave the ground on which it stands), 
finished in 1474, several Diets of the 
Empire were held, and many German 
Emperors entertained at the hospitable 
board of the patrician magistrates, in 
the huge hall which occupies the 1st 
floor : here the carnival balls are given, 
and the Art-Union exhibition takes 
place in July. It has a remarkably 
fine Gothic fireplace. The House of 
the Templars, in the Rheingasse, No. 8, 



supposed to be of the 12th or 13th 
cent., has lately been repaired, and now 
serves as the Exchange and Chamber of 
Commerce. The Casino is a handsome 
new building, near the theatre, provided 
with ball and reading rooms, where 
newspapers are taken in. The Regier- 
ungs Gebaude is also a handsome edifice. 

Maria de' Medici died, 1642, in the 
house, No. 10, Sternengasse ; her re- 
mains, except the heart, were carried 
to France. Rubens was born in the 
same house, 1577. 

Eau de Cologne, so renowned all over 
the world, is an article of considerable 
commerce for the city. There are 24 
manufacturers, and several who bear 
the same name ; but the original Jean 
Marie Farina, the rightful heir of the 
inventor (1670-1680), the best fabri- 
cator of Eau de Cologne, is to be 
found opposite the Julichs Platz. Za- 
noli, Hochstrasse, also may be recom- 
mended. A box (6 bottles) costs 2 th. 
10 S. gr. The value of this manufac- 
ture cannot fail to be appreciated on the 
spot. One of the peculiarities of Co- 
logne, its filthiness, will not long escape 
the attention, or the nose, of the 
stranger ; it occasioned the following 
verses of Coleridge : — 

Ye nymphs, who reign o'er sewers and sinks, 

The river Rhine, it is well known, 

Doth wash your city of Cologne : — 

But tell me, nymphs, what power divine 

Shall henceforth wash the river Rhine ? 

Baedeker, Hochstrasse 134 A, has a 
good store of guide books, &c. 

Physician. Dr. Feist ; who speaks 
English. 

rt. Deutz (Hotel Bellevue, surpasses 
in excellence all its rivals on the 1. 
bank), on the rt. bank of the Rhine, 
connected.by the bridge of boats, nearly 
1400 ft. long, with Cologne,and strongly 
fortified as a tete de pont, is a favourite 
place of resort in summer evenings. It 
has capital inns and many guinguettes, 
which afford the amusements of music, 
dancing, and beer-drinking to the citi- 
zens. A large barrack has been con- 
structed here with magazines of artil- 
lery. Deutz is said to owe its rise to 
a castle built here by Constantine the 
Great. From the extremity of the 
Bridge, the finest view of Cologne and 



Rhenish Prussia, it. 36 a. — aix-la-chafelle to dusseldorf. 



253 



its ranges of buildings, extending for 
3 m. along the opposite bank, is ob- 
tained. Plans bave been prepared for a 
new tubular suspension bridge over the 
Ebine between Cologne and Deutz. It 
is to replace the bridge of boats, and to 
rest on piers sunk in the bed of the river, 
so strong as to resist the floods and ice 
of winter. 

[An exceedingly interesting excursion 
may be made from Cologne to the Cis- 
tercian Abbey of Altenberg, 14 m. dis- 
tant, 2% hours' drive, off the post-road 
to Minden. The Abbey lies about a 
mile from the post-house at Strasserhof, 
to the S. of the road, in the midst of 
beech forests, buried in the pretty re- 
tired valley of the Dhiin, and close to 
the rushing stream. There is no car- 
riage road to it, but a pathway turns 
off from the road, a little short of Stras- 
serhof, through a glen. The distance is 
a very long mile, and parts of the way 
are ankle deep in very wet weather. 
The church is a most beautiful specimen 
of Gothic, the choir finished in 1265, 
the rest in 1379 ; it is 84 ft. high, and 
of graceful proportions. The windows 
contain some beautiful painted glass ; 
and remains of frescoes may be traced 
on its walls. The high altar, richly 
ornamented with carvings, the pulpit, 
and numerous curious monuments of 
abbots and monks, knights and noble 
ladies, are in a tolerably perfect state. 
Among them are several of the Counts 
of Altena, and the Counts and Dukes of 
Berg, an ancient family allied to the 
reigning house of Brandenburg. It 
has been supposed that this church was 
designed by the architect of Cologne 
cathedral ; but the simplicity and so- 
lidity of the columns seem to indicate 
an artist of an earlier style. Observe 
the free and natural foliage of the capi- 
tals ; it is well executed, and with great 
taste. The choir windows are narrow, 
and tall out of all proportion ; hidden 
on the outside by the projecting but- 
tresses, and rather poor when seen 
within. The conventual buildings, from 
which the monks were turned out only 
about 50 years ago, were built about 
1214 : they were converted into a ma- 
nufactory of Prussian blue, and were 
destroyed in 1815 by a fire which be- 



gan in them, and reduced part of the 
church to a state of impending ruin. 
In 1836 the King of Prussia (then 
Crown Prince) undertook its restora- 
tion. This exquisite relic of Gothic 
architecture has thus been saved, though 
at a great cost, from the destruction 
which was imminent. A dinner, with 
trout from the Dhum, may be had at 
the Inn (the Post) at Strasserhof.] 

Droskies (one-horse carriages) ply 
for hire in different parts of the town. 
The fare is fixed by a tariff hung up 
inside the vehicle, and the driver is 
bound to give a receipt for the money 
paid him, as a check to surcharge (see 
p. 244). 

Railroads — to Aix-la-Chapelle (Rte. 
36) ;— to Bonn (Bte. 37) ;— to Diissel- 
dorf (Rte. 66). 

Steamers several times a-day, up the 
Rhine to Coblenz (Rte. 37), and down 
to jSTijmegen and Arnhem (Rte. 34), and 
thence to Rotterdam (Rte. 12). 

Schnellposts (§ 50) morning and even- 
ing to Coblenz (Rte. 37) ; to Cassel (2) ; 
to Siegen (Rte. 45 a) ; to Priim and 
Treves ; to Cleves, in 13 h. ; and Nij- 
megen (Rte. 35). 

ROUTE 36 a. 

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO DUSSELDORF. 

The road from Aix-la-Chapelle to 
Dusseldorf is good. Schnellposts in 8 
hrs. 

3 2 Juliers (Germ. Jiilich). Inn: 
Drei Konigen — civil people, and clean 
beds. A melancholy-looking fortress, 
with 3000 inhab.,in the midst of a plain, 
surrounded by marshes and stagnant 
ditches, which render it very unhealthy. 
The surrounding district, however, is so 
fertile that it has received the name of 
the Granary (Kornkammer) of the 
Rhineland. 

3| Feurth : a posthouse by the road- 
side. 

"About 1£ Germ. m. from Neuss, 
on this road, a by-road of 2 Eng. m. 
conducts to the ancient Schloss Dyck, 
residence of the family of Salm-Dyck, 
which once bore the title Altgraf ; the 
principality was mediatised in the late 
war. The Castle is modernised, and 
offers little for observation, but the 



254 



ROUTE 37. — THE RHINE (c). 



Sect. IV. 



gardens are famous for a curious and 
rare collection of succulent plants." — 
F.8. 

2Neuss (p. 236). The Rhine is 
crossed by a flying bridge. 

1£ Dusseldorf.. (Route 34, p. 234.) 



ROUTE 37. 

THE RHINE (c)., 
FROM COLOGNE TO COBLENZ. 

rt. denotes the right, 1. the left bank 
of the Rhine, according as they would 
lie on the right or left of a person 
looking down the stream. 

Delkescamp's pictorial Panoramas 
of the Rhine and Moselle are useful 
and ingenious helps to tourists ; also 
Hendschel's excellent " Topographi- 
sches Rhein-Panorama," published by 
Jugel, Frankfurt a. M. 

The Rhine. 

" On the banks of the majestic Rhine,. 

There Harold gazes on a work divine, 

A blending of all beauties; streams and 
dells, 

Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, cornfield, moun- 
tain, vine, 

And chiefless castles breathing stern fare- 
wells 
From grey but leafy walls, where Ruin greenly 
dwells, 

" And there they stand,, as stands a lofty mind, 
Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd, 
All tenantless,. save to the crannying wind, 
Or holding dark communion with the cloud. 
There was a day when they were young and 

proud,. 
Banners on high, and battles pass'd below ; 
. But they who fought are in a bloody shroud,. 
And those which wav'd are shredless dust 
ere- now, 
And the bleak battlements shall bear no fu- 
ture- blow. 

" Beneath these battlements, within those 

walls, 
Power dwelt amidst her passions ; in proud 

state 
Each robber chief upheld his armed halls, 
Doing his evil will, nor less elate 
Than mightier heroes of a longer date. 
What want these outlaws conquerors should 

have 
But History's purchas'd page to call them 

great, 
A wider space and ornamented grave ? 
Their hopes were not less warm, their souls 

were full as brave. 



" In their baronial feuds and single fields, 
What deeds of prowess unrecorded died ! 
And Love, which lent a blazon to their 

shields, 
With emblems well devis'd by amorous 

pride, 
Through all the mail of iron hearts would 

glide ; 
But still their flame was fierceness, and drew 

on 
Keen contest and destruction near allied, 
And many a tower for some fair mischief 

won 
Saw the discolour'd Rhine beneath its ruin 

run. 

" But Thou, exulting and abounding river! 
Making thy waves a blessing as they flow 
Through banks whose beauty would endure 

for ever, 
Could man but leave thy bright creation so, 
Nor its fair promise from the surface mow 
With the sharp scythe of conflict, — then to 

see 
Thy valley of sweet waters, were to know 
Earth pav'd like Heaven ; and to seem such 

to me^ 
Even now what wants thy stream^? — that it 

should Lethe be. 

" A thousand battles have assail'd thy hanks, 

But these and half their fame have pass'd 
away, 

And Slaughter heap'd on high his weltering 
ranks ; 

Their very graves are gone, and what are 
they? 

Thy tide wash'd down the blood of yester- 
day, 

And all was stainless, and on thy clear stream 

Glanc'd with its dancing light the sunny ray ; 

But o'er the blacken'd memory's blighting 
dream 
Thy waves, would vainly roll, all sweeping as 
they seem. 

" Adieu to thee, fair Rhine 1 How long de- 
lighted 
The stranger fain would linger on his way ! 
Thine is a scene alike where souls united 
Or lonely contemplation thus- might s f ray ; 
And could the ceaseless vultures cease to 

prey 

On self-condemning bosoms, it were here, 

Where Nature,, nor too sombre nor too gay, 

Wild but not rude, a\vful yet not austere, 

Is to the mellow earth as Autumn to the year. 

" Adieu to thee again !: a vain adieu ! 
There can be no farewell to scene like thine : 
The mind is coloured by thy every hue ; 
And if reluctantly the eyes resign 
Their cherish'd gaze upon thee, lovelv 

Rhine !. 
"Pis with the thankful glance of parting 

praise : 
More mighty spots, may rise — more glaring 

shine, 
But none unite in one attaching maze 
The brilliant, fair^ and soft, — the glories of old 

davs» 



Men. Prussia, route 37.— the rhine (c). rafts. 



255 



" The negligently grand, the fruiiful bloom 
Of coming ripeness, the white city's sheen, 
The rolling stream, the precipice's gloom, 
Tiie forest's growth, and Gothic walls be- 

tweea 
The wild rocks shap'd as they had turrets 

been 
In mockery of man's art ; and these withal 
A race of faces happy as the scene, 
Whose fertile bounties here extend to all, 
Still springing o'er thy banks, though Empires 

near them fall." Byron, 

To the above accurate description 
of the poet is added another in prose, 
from the pen of a German, because it 
serves to illustrate the feelings of pride 
and almost veneration with which the 
Ehine is regarded in Germany ; it is in- 
deed looked upon as the national river. 

"There are rivers whose course is 
longer, and whose volume of water is 
greater, but none which unites almost 
everything that can render an earthly 
object magnificent and charming in the 
same degree as the Ehine. As it flows 
down from the distant ridges of the 
Alps, through fertile regions, into the 
open sea, so it comes down from remote 
antiquity, associated in every age with 
momentous events in the history of the 
neighbouring nations. A river which 
presents so many historical recollections 
of Eoman conquests and defeats, of the 
chivalric exploits in the feudal periods, 
of the wars and negotiations of modern 
times, of the coronations of emperors, 
whose bones repose by its side ; on 
whose borders stand the two grandest 
monuments of the noble architecture of 
the middle ages ; whose banks present 
every variety of wild and picturesque 
rocks, thick forests, fertile plains ; vine- 
yards, sometimes gently sloping, some- 
times perched among lofty crags, where 
industry has won a domain among the 
fortresses of nature ; whose banks; are 
ornamented with populous cities, 
flourishing towns and villages, castles 
and ruins, with which a thousand 
legends are connected, with beautiful 
and romantic roads, and salutary 
mineral springs ; a river whose waters 
offer choice fish, as its banks offer the 
choicest wines ; which, in its course of 
900 miles, affords 630 miles of uninter- 
rupted navigation, from Basle to the 
sea, and enables the inhabitants of its 
banks to exchange the rich and various 



products of its shores ; whose cities, 
famous for commerce, science, and 
works of strength, which furnish pro- 
tection to Germany, are also famous as 
the seats of Eoman colonies and of 
ecclesiastical councils, and are associ- 
ated with many of the most important 
events recorded in the history of man- 
kind ; — such a river it is not surprising 
that the Germans regard with a kind 
of reverence, and frequently call in 
poetry Father or King Ehine." — Dr. 

LlEBER. 

Eafts on the Ehine. — Every tra- 
veller on the Ehine should have his 
attention called to the vast floating 
islands of timber which he will con- 
stantly meet with on that river. They 
are the produce of the forests which 
cover the remote hills and mountains 
traversed by the Ehine and its tribu- 
taries, — the Neckar, the Murg, the 
Main, the Moselle, &c. &c. They are 
first hurled down, in single logs, from 
the almost inaccessible heights where 
they have grown,, and, having been 
felled, are committed to some rushing 
mountain rivulet, whenever its waters, 
swelled by rain or melting snow, suffice 
to float them.^ If the tree escape un- 
shattered from the rocks against which 
it is dashed by the stream, it is caught, 
bound together with other logs, and 
again set afloat, till it is conveyed by 
the tributary rivulet into the recipient 
river, and reaches other stations on its 
banks, where it is again enlarged, and 
intrusted to the care of boatmen to 
navigate.. It may thus bear the same 
motto as the snowball, vires acquirit 
eundo, until, on reaching the lower part 
of the Ehine, it is carefully built into 
one prodigious fabric, which is then 
navigated to Bortrecht, and sold. These 
constructions have the appearance of a 
floating village, composed of 8 or 10 
little wooden huts, on a large platform 
of oak and deal timber. The rowers 
and workmen sometimes amount to 
400 or 500, superintended by pilots, 
and a proprietor, whose habitation is 
superior in size and elegance to the 
rest. The captain places himself upon 
a raised platform or stage, from which 
he can survey the float from end to end, 
and direct, by words and signs, its 



256 ROUTE 37.' — THE RHINE (c), RAFTS, STEAMERS, Sect. IV. 



movements. It is steered by means of 
anchors and the immense oars or sweeps 
of a quadruple row of rowers, placed 
fore and aft. The vast fabric bends 
and twists like a snake, when passing 
near dangerous eddies and narrow 
straits, such as are met with in the 
Rhine under the Lurlei and the 
Bingen Loch. The raft is composed 
of several layers of trees, placed one on 
the other, and strongly fastened to- 
gether by chains and rivets, planked 
over with rough deals so as to form a 
deck, which is sunk nearly to the level 
of the water. Several smaller rafts are 
attached to it by way of protection, 
besides a string of boats loaded with 
anchors and cables, and used for the 
purpose of sounding the river and going 
on shore. The domestic economy of 
an East-Indiaman, or an English man- 
of-war, is hardly more complete. The 
boatmen are often accompanied by 
their wives and families, and spinning, 
knitting, tailoring, dressmaking, are 
carried on ; poultry, pigs, and other 
animals are to be found on board — 
and several butchers are attached to the 
suite. A well-supplied boiler is at 
work night and day in the kitchen; 
the dinner-hour is announced by a 
basket stuck on a pole, at which signal 
the pilot gives the word of command, 
and the workmen run from all quarters 
to receive their messes. The con- 
sumption of provisions in the voyage is 
almost incredible. It has been stated 
to be, from the time the construction of 
the raft commences until it is sold at 
Dort, 45,000 lbs. of bread, 30,000 lbs. 
of fresh and dried meat, 15,000 lbs. of 
butter, 10,000 lbs. of cheese, 50 sacks 
of dried vegetables, 500 tuns of beer, 8 
butts of wine, and several other articles 
in proportion. The expenses are so 
great that a large capital is necessary 
to undertake a raft. Their navigation 
is a matter of considerable skill, owing 
to the abrupt windings, the rocks and 
shallows of the river ; and some years 
ago the secret was thought to be mo- 
nopolised by a boatman of Riidesheim 
and his sons. 

At present the rafts are not so large 
as formerly; instead of 900 feet in 
length, they are now commonly not 



more than 600 or 700 ; they never ex- 
ceed 250 in breadth, and are subjected 
to be measured at Caub, to ascertain 
that they do not exceed this width ; if 
larger they could not pass through the 
narrow channel between the rocks at 
Oberwesel. They do not draw more 
than 2 or 3 ft. of water. The smaller 
rafts, which still often require 400 men 
to navigate them, are both more easily 
managed, and can also set out from a 
higher point up the river than the 
larger floats. A single float is com- 
monly the property of a great number 
of shareholders. The timber is sold at 
the end of the voyage, and sometimes 
produces from 300,000 to 350,000 
florins (25,000/. or 30,000/.). During 
the years 1839, 1840, and 1841, the 
average quantity of timber imported 
into Holland by the Rhine amounted 
annually to 110,500 tons Eng. weight, 
consisting principally of wood suited 
for ship and house building, wainscot 
logs, spars, weals, staves, and firewood ; 
the whole of which is consumed in 
Holland, with the exception of some 
trifling quantity sent to the colonies. 
The value of the Rhenish timber con- 
sumed annually in Holland amounts 
to about 170,000/. The voyage from 
Bingen to Dort may be performed, 
under favourable circumstances, in 8 
days ; but it sometimes takes up 6 
weeks. It is curious to find that the 
boatmen who navigate the Rhine still 
call the 1. bank of the river Frank- 
enland, and designate the rt. Hessen- 
land, — though these names no longer 
apply to the present possessors of either 
bank. 

Steam-Boats ox the Rhine. — 
(See Rte. 11.) 1. Cologne Company, 
plies between Cologne and Strasburg ; 
2. Diisseldorf Company, between Rot- 
terdam and Mannheim ; 3. the Nether- 
landish or Dutch Company, between 
Rotterdam and Mannheim. At the rate 
of 10 or 12 m. against the stream, and 
of 1 5 m. with it. 

Steamers daily in 1851. 

Strasburg to Mannheim ... 1 
Mannheim to Mayence . 2 or 3 
Mayence to Cologne . .• 4 to 6 
Cologne to Rotterdam, several. 



Rhen. Prussia, route 37. — THE RHINE (c). scenery. 



257 



As the hours of departure and arrival 
are constantly changing, the traveller 
is referred to the Companies' printed 
hills, which he may obtain at their 
offices, and find in every inn or steam- 
boat he enters ; or to the numerous 
little books, with time-tables, fares, 
distances, &c, published in France, 
Belgium, and Germany. The best are 
those compiled by Hendschcl, and pub- 
lished by Jugel, at Frankfurt a. M. 

Carriages are embarked and landed 
free of charge. 

The steam-boats are divided into 3 
cabins: — 1. The pavilion. 2. The 
chief cabin. 3. The after- cabin, for 
servants and inferior persons. The pa- 
vilion differs from the second cabin only 
in being more expensive ; and unless a 
person wishes to be very exclusive, he 
has no occasion to take any other place 
than the second cabin. 

Meals are provided on board, at 
prices fixed by a printed tariff hung up 
in the cabin. Dinner at the table- 
d'hote, at 1 o'clock, 17 S. gr. ; at other 
times, apart, 1 dollar ; half a bottle of 
wine, 6 S. gros. ; tea or coffee, with 
bread and butter, 7 S. gr. 

Caution. — " Places are booked at 
all parts of the Rhine and at Frankfurt 
direct for London, daily, but the tickets 
so issued are available only for one set 
of steamers plying between Rotterdam 
and London. One of the Rhenish com- 
panies corresponds with the Batavier, 
which sails only once a week ; conse- 
quently the unwary traveller may be 
detained 7 days at Rotterdam, unless 
he choose to sacrifice the money which 
he has paid, and take a passage in one 
of the other companies' steamers." — 
P. F. Even upon the Rhine it is 
scarcely worth while, for the sake of a 
small saving, to bind oneself down to 
go by the boats of a particular com- 
pany. If the hour of departure happen 
not to suit the traveller, or he arrive 
too late for the boat to which he is en- 
gaged, he must either forfeit his money, 
or wait till the next day. If he pay 
the money in advance, he has probably 
only one chance in a day ; if he is free, 
he has three or four up and down the 
river. 



In 1827, when the Cologne company 
commenced, 18,000 passengers were 
conveyed up and down, between Cologne 
and Mayence; the number increased 
to a million yearly in 1847, and is now 
probably greater. 

The traveller who confines himself to 
the Rhine, and the routes contigu- 
ous to and branching off from it, 
will find that, with very few excep- 
tions, he may make his way very well 
without knowing any other language 
than French, which is generally spoken 
in the inns, passport and coach offices, 
and public conveyances, from Cologne 
to Mayence and Frankfurt, and thence 
to Baden. 

The money current upon the Rhine is, 
in Prussia, Dollars and Groschen (§ 48) ; 
higher up, in Nassau, Frankfurt, and 
Baden, Florins and Kreutzers. (Sec- 
tion VII.) 

Scenery of the Rhine. — The glo- 
ries of the Rhine commence about 20 
m. above Cologne with the beautiful 
cluster of mountains called the Sieben- 
gebirge ; and the banks of the river 
afford, nearly up to Mayence, a succes- 
sion of scenes of equal beauty and 
variety. English travellers are often 
under the erroneous impression that 
they have seen the Rhine in passing up 
and down in a steam- vessel, and they 
hurry onwards to something beyond the 
Rhine. It may be said of them, in the 
words of a homely phrase, that they 
" go farther and fare worse." The 
views in many places, looking down 
upon the Rhine from its lofty banks, far 
surpass those from the river itself; and 
the small valleys, which pour in their 
tributary streams on the rt. hand and 1., 
have beauties to unfold of which the 
steam-driven tourist has no conception, 
which are entirely lost to him. At the 
same time, to avoid disappointment at 
first, he shoidd remember that below 
Bonn or Godesberg he will find no- 
thing to admire in the scenery of 
the river. In order thoroughly to ex- 
plore and appreciate the Rhine, it 
is necessary every now and then to 
make a halt, and the following places 
appear the most appropriate stations 
to remain at: — Bonn, or Godesberg; 



258 



ROUTE 37. — THE RHINE (c). COLOGNE TO BONN. Sect. IV. 



Coblenz ; St. Goar ; Bingen ; or JRiides- 
heirn.* 

Railroad — Cologne to Bonn.. 3 - 9 
Germ. m. =18 Eng. m. Trains in 
about 1 hr. Terminus at Cologne, 
near St. Pantaleon's Gate. Distance by 
the Bhine 22 Eng.. m. The steamers 
take 2^ or 3 hrs. 

The line runs through a plain of corn- 
fields, at some distance from the Khine, 
and near a chain of hills called Vorge- 
birge. 

1. Kalscheuren Stat. 

•5. Briihl Stat., in front of the Cha- 
teau built by the Episcopal Elector, 
Clement Augustus^ 1728 ; , now belong- 
ing to the Prussian Government.. The 
King of Prussia received Q. Victoria* 
here in 1845, during the Beethoven fes- 
tival at Bonn. It contains some por- 
traits of Electors and old German princes, 
and has a garden and an old-fashioned 
park attached to it. 

The ancient Franciscan convent is 
now a seminary for schoolmasters. 
Briihl contains about 2000 inhab. 

1. The hunting-seat of Falkenlust, 
united to Briihl by avenues of trees, 
also belonged to the Electors. 

•7. Sechtem.. 

At "Waldorf are remains of a Eoman 
aqueduct, which, extending up to the 
course of the Erft, conveyed its waters 
to the Bhine. 

•8. Boisdorf Stat. Here are mineral 
springs resembling the Seltzer water. 
The outline of the Seven Mountains be- 
yond the Bhine are a pleasing feature 
in the view. 

The Kreuzberg (p. 260), with its ch., 
and the village of Poppelsdorf, are seen 
rt. before reaching 

•9. Bonn.-~ Terminus situated on one 
side of the horse-chestnut avenue lead- 
ing to Poppelsdorf. 



Several steamers start every morning 
from Cologne to Coblenz, making the 

* Post-road. — Bonn to Coblenz. 
8 Pruss. in. = 38 Eng. m. along the bank of 
the Rhine. 

Schnsllpost every morning and evening, in 
5^ hours. It takes rather longer to post. 

Pruss. m. 

Remagen 2| 

Andernach 2£ 

Coblenz ,,.,...,... 2i 



voyage in 8 hrs., descending in 5. 
You may reach Mayence in 14 hrs. 
from Cologne, and, in 2 more, Frank- 
furt. 

At the upper end of Cologne, at the \ 
margin of the river r . rises the Bayen- 
thurm, a stately and picturesque Gothic 
tower of the 14th cent. From its- 
position, projecting into the river, it 
serves in winter to stave off the ice- 
shocks from the city below. 

From Cologne to Bonn the banks of 
the Bhine are as fiat and uninteresting 
as in Holland, and the villages which 
lie on them do not require any notice. 
On nearing Bonn, the picturesque out- 
line of the Siebengebirge (7 mountains) 
on the rt.. bank,, rivets the attention. 

rt. The castle of Siegburg, rising con- 
spicuously on an eminence above the 
Sieg, about 3 m. E. of the Bhine, is 
now a lunatic asylum. 

rt. Mouth of the river Sieg. The 
Sicambri (Sieg - ambri), an ancient 
people, lived upon its banks. 

rt. At Schwarz-Bheindorf, opposite 
Bonn, about J m. below the bridge of 
boats, there is a curious architectural 
monument — a church of 2 stories. It 
was erected by Arnold von Weld, Arch- 
bishop of Cologne, in 1151, yet it is en- 
tirely in the Bomanesque style, showing 
no traces of the pointed Gothic. The 
upper church, now restored for divine 
worship, is^surrounded by an open gal- 
lery or arcade, supported by more than 
100 little pillars, whose bases and capi- 
tals exhibit a prolific variety of orna- 
ment. It will interest none but archi- 
tects and antiquaries. 

1. Bonn. Inns: Der Stem (the Star), 
good and comfortable ; Trierischer Hof 
(Cour de Treves), also good and mode- 
rate — both in the market-place ; Colni- 
scher Hof (Cour de Cologne) ; Bellevue ; 
Koniglicher Hof (Boyal Hotel) — both 
in the new part of the town, outside the 
Coblenz gate — both have gardens down 
to the water side - r Bheineck, on the 
Bhine, 2nd rate. The red wines called 
Walportzheimer and Ahrbleichart, pro- 
duced in the neighbouring valley of the 
Ahr, are veiy good here. The Boisdorf 
mineral water is used as a substitute for 
the Seltzer water. 

Bonn, a town of 15,500 inhab., on 



Ehen. Prussia, route 37. — the rhine (c). bonn. 



259 



the 1. bank of the Ehine, is chiefly re- 
markable for its University, established 
by the King of Prussia in 1818, which 
has attained a high reputation on the 
Continent, owing to the improved dis- 
cipline maintained among the students 
and to the discernment exercised by the 
government in the appointment of profes- 
sors. Prince Albert was a student here. 
Among those who have already filled 
chairs here, the most distinguished are 
Niebuhr and Aug. W. Schlegel, both 
dead. 

The Electors of Cologne formerly re- 
sided here, having removed their court 
hither from Cologne in 1268. Their 
huge palace, built 1730, nearly | m. 
long, now serves to contain the Univer- 
sity ; and includes the Lecture -rooms, 
Library of about 150,000 vols., and the 
Academical Hall, decorated with, modern 
frescoes, painted under the direction of 
Cornelius by his pupils. The subjects 
are the four faculties, Philosophy, Juris- 
prudence, Medicine, in which Cuvier 
and Linnseus are conspicuous, and 
Theology, where Luther, Calvin, Wick- 
liffe, St. Jerome and the Fathers, 
Ignatius Loyola, and other divines, 
both Catholic and Protestant, are intro- 
duced. 

The same building contains the Mu- 
seum of Rhenish Antiquities, a very large 
and interesting assemblage of local re- 
mains discovered on the banks of the 
Ehine, and relics of Roman settlements 
in this part of Germany. It is much to 
be lamented that the collection is, as 
yet, neither named nor catalogued. The 
following seem to be the most remark- 
able objects : — A Roman altar, dedicated 
to Yictory, which formerly stood in the 
square called Romerplatz, and is sup- 
posed by some to be the identical Ara 
Ubiomm mentioned by Tacitus (Annal. 
I. 39). A bronze vase, bearing figures 
of Hercules, Mars, and Venus, in a pure 
style of art, found at Ziilpich. Nume- 
rous weapons, trinkets, vases, glass ves- 
sels, a winged head of Mercury, found 
at Haddernheim ; the gravestone of one 
M. Cselius, who fell in the great battle 
of Varus (bello Variano) against Ar- 
minius, very interesting from the event 
it commemorates, as well as for its re- 
presentation of Roman military cos- 



tume ; Jupiter's wig and a thunderbolt 
of bronze, from the Hundsriick ; tiles 
stamped with the numbers of several 
Roman legions (xxi. xxii.) stationed in 
these parts ; a Roman millstone of Men- 
dig tufa, and an ancient German shield 
of wood, dug up at Isenburg, in Westpha- 
lia, besides 200 bronzes. The Univer- 
setatspedell shows the hall — fee 5 S. gr., 
for the Museum 8 S. gr. The collec- 
tions are opened to the public Wed. and 
Sat., 12-1 ; the library on the same 
days, 2-4. 

An Avenue of chestnuts, about £ m. 
long, forming an agreeable walk, con- 
ducts to the Chateau of Poppelsdorf, con- 
taining the Museum of Natural History. 
The collection of minerals and fossils is 
extensive and good, and especially in-. 
teresting, as illustrating the geology of 
the Rhine, and of the volcanic deposits 
of the Siebengebirge and Eifel, arranged 
by Prof. Golclfuss. Among the fossil 
remains may be seen a complete series 
from the brown coal formation of Fries- 
dorf, near Bonn. A set of fossil frogs, 
from the most perfect state down to that 
of a tadpole, discovered in the shale 
called paper-coal, deserves notice. At- 
tached to the Chateau is the Botanic 
Garden, very spacious, very rich, beau- 
tifully situated, and admirably kept. 
5 hour's walk brings you from this 
garden to the church on the Kreutz- 
berg. 

The Minster, a fine building exter- 
nally, surmounted by 5 towers, was 
founded, it is said, by Helena, mother 
of Constantine the Great, and contains 
a bronze statue of her, in the style and 
of the age of Louis XIV. The dates of 
the building of the different parts of 
this ch. are not accurately known. Per- 
haps the high crypt, on which is ele- 
vated the choir, belongs to the eh. of 
Helena. The circuit of the choir and 
its 2 towers were apparently built in 
the 10th cent. : the rest, including the 
middle tower, abotitthe year 1177. The 
more remarkable parts are the central 
tower and the windows of the nave 
formed of 5 small pointed arches. The 
interior is very plain. 

The English Ch. Service is performed 
on Sunday by an English clergyman. 

There is a very good club (§ 40) here, 



260 



EOUTE 37. — THE RHINE (c). BONN. 



Sect. IV. 



called Lese- and Erholungs- Gesell- 
schaft. 

Beethoven, the composer, was born 
(1770, d. 1827) in the house No. 934, 
Rheingasse. A bronze statue by Hanel 
was erected to him in 1845, in the 
Miinster-platz. In the Churchyard, out- 
side the Sternen Thor, Niebuhr the his- 
torian is buried. His monument is by 
Eauch. Also A. W. Schlegel. Here 
also are the graves of several students 
killed in duels. 

The most notable events in the annals 
of Bonn are its capture after a long 
siege, in 1584, by Archbp. Ernest of 
Bavaria, from Gebhard Truchsess, who 
had been deposed from the see because 
he had become a Protestant; and its 
surrender to the English and Dutch 
army under Marlborough, in 1703, after 
a siege, the operations of which were 
conducted by the celebrated Coehorn. 
In the course of it a great part of the 
town was burnt. Bonn is mentioned 
by Tacitus as Castra Bonnensia, and 
was the spot where Claudius Civilis, the 
rebel leader of the Batavi, was defeated 
by the Romans, a. d, 70, (Hist. iv. 
20.) 

At Bonn the beauties of the Bhine 
may be said to have already commenced. 
There are several most agreeable excur- 
sions round about it, and the view of 
the Seven Mountains on the -opposite 
side of the river is strikingly grand. 
They are seen to great advantage from 
the Bastion, or terrace, called Alte Zoll, 
overlooking the Rhine, 

Finer still is the view from the 
church, on the summit of the Kreuzberg, 
one of the hills behind Poppelsdorf, 1J 
m. from Bonn. It was formerly at- 
tached to a convent of Servites. It was 
built 1627. In a chapel behind the 
altar are shown the Sacred Stairs which 
led up to Pilate's Judgment Hall, still 
bearing stains of the blood which fell 
from the wounds caused on the Saviour's 
brow by the Crown of Thorns ! They 
were built of Italian marble by the 
Elector Clement Augustus (1725), in 
imitation of the staircase at Rome called 
the Scala Santa ; and no one is allowed 
to ascend them except on his knees. A 
trapdoor in the pavement leads into the 
vaults raider the church, remarkable for 



having preserved, in an undecayed state, 
the bodies of the monks buried in them. 
These lie in 25 open coffins, with cowl 
and cassock on. The flesh in some is 
preserved, though shrivelled up to the J> 
consistence of a dried stockfish — they are 
in fact natural mummies, and their 
preservation is attributed to the dryness 
of the sandy soil. They have been in- 
terred here at various times, from 1400 
to 1 7 1 3 . The church is annually visited 
by numerous pilgrims, chiefly the rude 
peasants of the Eifel. 

The other agreeable expeditions which 
may be made from Bonn are to — 1. 
Godesberg, on the road to Coblenz, and 
the Alum Works at Friesdorf ; 2. The 
Drachenfels and Siebengebirge, with 
the ruins of Heisterbach on the oppo- 
site side of the Rhine, described further 
on-, 3. The Lower Eifel (Rte. 40) ; 4. 
The valley of the Ahr (Rte. 39). A 
direct carriage-road leads over the 
hills to Altenahr, 18 m. The last two 
highly interesting and seldom explored. 

Steamer, Bonn to Coblenz, 4-^ hrs. 



(1.) After leaving Bonn about 3 m., 
the road * passes a Gothic Cross called 
Hochkreuz, erected by an Archbishop of 
Cologne, 1331. About 1 m. from this, 
to the rt of the road, are the brown- 
coal mines and alum-works of Friesdorf. 
The stratum here worked is, in fact, a 
forest, buried in an early period of the 
world's existence, and now converted 
into lignite or brown coal. The trunks 
of trees are intermixed with clays and 
sands, and exhibit all the stages from 
fossil wood, in which the vegetable 
fibre and texture are quite discernible, 
down to bituminous earthy coal fit for 
burning as fuel. Many fossil fishes and 
freshwater shells are found in these beds. 
Associated with the coal is a stratum 
furnishing the ingredients for extensive 
alum- works. " The alum of commerce 
is a compound of sulphuric acid, potash, 
and aluminous earth, and all these sub- 
stances are obtained on the spot, from 
materials found in contact with the 
alum clay. The sulphuric acid is formed 
by the action of air and moisture upon 
iron pyrites (sulphuret of iron), previ- 

* The Post-road quits Bonn through an 
archway under the Electoral Palace. 



Men. Prussia. it. 37.— -THE RHINE (c). godesberg 



261 



ously gently roasted, and the potash 
from the ashes of the brown coal used 
as fuel in evaporating and crystallising 
the alum salt." — II. " The same mine 
furnishes a fine potter's clay, which is 
used in making the conical moulds em- 
ployed in refining beet -root sugar, 
which is extensively manufactured here- 
abouts."— P. 

At Putzburg, near Fricsdorf, gigantic 
trunks of trees, sometimes 10 or 12 ft. 
in diameter, occur embedded in the 
strata. The earthy brown coal worked 
here affords the valuable pigment known 
by the name of burnt umber, or Co- 
logne earth. 

1. Plittersdorf village. Here the 
steamer stops for passengers to or from 
Godesberg, 1 m. distant - from the 
Rhine, and 5 from Bonn. Here is a 
ferry to Meder-Dollendorf (fare, 1 S. 

g r 0- 

Godesberg. Inns: Blinzler's Hotel 

— Hotel Bellevue ; both very good. 
" The Bellevue was built as a Kursaal 
by the last Elector of Cologne, who 
projected making Godesberg a watering- 
place, but was prevented by the French 
Bevolution. Table-d'hote, 15 S. gr., 
in private 1 th. ; table wine (Ober- 
Mosler), 15 S. gr. ; breakfast and tea, 
10 S. gr. ; bed, 15 S. gr."— P. Visitors 
may board at 5 frs. a day, exclusive of 
wine. Donkeys jAy near the hotel, to 
convey persons up to the castle, or 
for other excursions in the neighbour- 
hood. 

Godesberg, a village of 1000 inhab., 
on the high road, is, on account of its 
situation, one of the most agreeable 
summer residences on the Rhine. Near 
it is a mineral spring, called Draitscher 
Brunnen, where there are baths, 10 S. 
gr. each. Shaded paths wind round 
the hill to the ancient Castle Keep on its 
top. It was built by the warlike Arch- 
bishops of Cologne, 1212, on the site of 
a Roman fort, and served them long as 
a stronghold, till the Bavarians took it 
and blew it up, 1583, because it held 
out for the Protestant Archbp. Gebhard 
Truchscss. The cylindrical Donjon 
tower (100 ft. high, built 1340) com- 
mands one of the most beautiful pros- 
pects on the Rhine. The key is kept 
at the well below. The interior of 



the castle is now the village church- 
yard. 

Godesberg, li m. distant from the 
Rhine, is a convenient point for making 
excursions to — 1. The volcanic hill of 
Roderberg. 2. The Seven Mountains. 
The nearest way to them is to cross the 
Rhine by the ferry-boat to Konigswin- 
ter, at the foot of the Drachenfels. This 
excursion may be lengthened profitably, 
by ascending the 1. bank of the Rhine 
as far as Rolandseck (p. 263), and, after 
exploring its ruined castle, crossing in 
a boat to Nbnnenwerth and then drop- 
ping down the river to Konigswinter. 
The excursion will not take up more 
than a day, and is decidedly a very in- 
teresting one. 3. The short tour up the 
valley of the Ahr (Rte. 39). 4. "A 
visit to the abbey of Heisterbach may 
be combined with the tour of the Seven 
Mountains, but is better made sepa- 
rately, crossing the Rhine by the ferry 
from Plittersdorf (1.) to Nieder-Dollen- 
dorf. About 2 m. inland S.E. from this 
lie the ruins of the Cistercian Abbey of 
Heisterbach. A carriage-road leads to 
it. The pedestrian, after passing Ober- 
Dollendorf, will proceed by a wooded 
path into the Petersthal, a secluded 
valley at the base of the Petersberg, 
one of the Seven Mountains, in which 
the Abbey lies. A fragment — the apse 
of the choir — alone remains to attest its 
ancient magnificence. It is a beautiful 
specimen of the finest style of the tran- 
sition from the round to the pointed 
styles— begun in 1202, finished 1233. 
The building was sold for the mere 
value of the materials by the French in 
1806, and the greater part was pulled 
down and removed to form the fortifica- 
tions of "Wesel. The beautiful frag- 
ment which still exists is carefully pre- 
served from further decay by the 
Count zur Lippe-Biesterfeld, its present 
owner, and well deserves the stranger's 
attention. 

rt. Konigswinter (Inns : H. de 1' Eu- 
rope, comfortable — Hotel de Berlin ; 
both overlooking the Rhine), a village 
of 1500 inhab., at the foot of the Dra- 
chenfels, which is most conveniently 
ascended from this in 30 min. Asses 
for the ascent of the mountain cost 10 
S. gr. ; to Heisterbach, 2± m., 20 S. gr. 



262 



ROUTE 37. THE RHINE (c). SEVEN MOUNTAINS. Sect. IV. 



Boats to Nonnenwerth and back, 20 S. 
gr. ; to Bonn, 15 S. gr. 

rt The Seven Mountains (Sieben- 
gebirge). This group of hills, in reality 
more than 7 in number, forms a grand 
commencement to the beautiful scenery 
of the Ehine. They are the highest 
and wildest on its banks, entirely of 
volcanic origin, and consist of lava, 
trachyte, and basalt, ejected through 
the rocks, which form the basement of 
the surrounding country, by subterra- 
neous eruptions which took place pre- 
vious to the existence of any human re- 
cord or tradition. The names and 
heights of the 7 principal summits 
(for there are many minor heights) are 
as follows: — Stromberg, 1053 ft, ; Nie- 
derstromberg, 1066 ft. ; Oelberg, 1453 
ft. (the highest) ; Wolkenberg, 1055 ft. ; 
Drachenfels, 1056 ft. ; Lowenberg, 1414 
ft. (commanding a view considered by 
some superior to that from the Drachen- 
fels) ; and Hemmerich. They are al- 
most all crowned with a chapel or the 
ruin of some ancient tower or hermit's 
cell, which adds much to their pictur- 
esque features. 

The trachyte rock of the "Wolkenberg 
is quarried to a considerable extent as 
building stone. It abounds in the mi- 
neral called glassy felspar. 

The most interesting of the whole 
group, from its shape and position, but 
more than all from the verses of Byron, 
is the famed Drachenfels (Dragon 
Bock), whose precipices rise abruptly 
from the river side, crowned with a 
ruin. 

" The castled crag of Drachenfels 

Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine, 
Whose breast of waters broadly swells 
Between the banks which bear the vine; 
And hills all rich with blossom'd trees, 
And fields which promise corn and wine, 
And scatter'd cities crowning these, 
Whose far white walls along them shine, 
Have strew'd a seene which I should see 
With double joy wert thou with me. 

" And peasant girls with deep blue eyes, 
And hands which offer early flowers., 
Walk smiling o'er this paradise ; 
Above, the frequent feudal towers 
Through green leaves lift their walls of gray, 
And many a rock which steeply lowers, 
And noble arch in proud decay, 
Look o'er this vale of vintage-bowers; 
But one thing want these banks of Rhine, — 
Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine ! 



" The river nobly foams and flows, 
The charm of this enchanted ground, 
And all its thousand turns disclose 
Some fresher beauty varying round : 
The haughtiest breast its wish might bound 
Through life to dwell delighted here ; 
Nor could on earth a spot be found 
To nature and to me so dear, 
Could thy dear eyes in following mine 
Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine !" 

Byrox. 

The summit of the Drachenfels com- 
mands a noble view, and it may be 
reached in about half an hour from 
Konigswinter. In ascending it the tra- 
veller is shown the quarry from which 
the stones were taken to build the ca- 
thedral of Cologne, called, in conse- 
quence, Dombruch, and the cave of the 
Dragon (from which the mountain was 
named) killed, as it is reported, by the 
horned Siegfried, the hero of the Nie- 
belungen Lay. Near the top is a toler- 
able inn, where parties may dine, and 
those who wish to enjoy the sunrise 
from the summit find sleeping accom- 
modation. The ruined fragment on the 
top is of remote origin, and was once 
the seat of a noble race, long since ex- 
tinct, named after the mountain on 
which they dwelt. They were depen- 
dent upon the Archbp. of Cologne as feu- 
dal superior, and seem to have chosen 
this situation for their castle from the 
facilities it afforded them for spying at 
a distance the merchant's laden boat or 
labouring waggon, and for sallying do^Ti 
to pillage or exact tribute. 

The View hence extends down the 
river as far as Cologne, 20 m. off; up- 
wards, the Bhine is shut in by rocks, 
which, however, are very grand, while 
Bonn and its University, with old 
castles, villages, and farm-houses almost 
beyond number, fill up the foreground 
of the landscape. The principal objects 
are the summits of the 7 mountains, 
Bemagen and Apollinarisberg, the vol- 
canic chain of the Eifel behind, Ober- 
winter and the island JSonncnwerth, 
the ruined arch of Bolandseck, the ex- 
tinct crater of Boderberg, and the don- 
jon of Godesberg. 

The ruins on several other summits 
of the Seven Mountains are remains of 
castles of the Archbishops of Cologne. 
In that which crowned the Z&izmberg 
the reformers Melancthon and Bueer 



Rhen. Prussia. r. 37. — the rhine (c). rolandseck. 



263 



passed some time with the Archbp. Her- 
man von "Wied, who afterwards adopted 
the reformed faith ; and his successor, 
the Protestant Archbp. Gebhard Truch- 
sess, took refuge here, with his beauti- 
ful wife, Agnes von Mansfeldt, 1585. 
The view from this summit extends 
back over part of the Westerwald and 
of Westphalia. 

1. In the neighbourhood of Mehlem 
is the Eoderberg, one of the most inter- 
esting extinct volcanoes on the Rhine. 
Its crater is circular, nearly £ m. in 
diameter, and 100 ft. deep. It is now 
covered with fields of corn. The sides 
are composed in many places of tufa 
and scoriae, exactly similar to those 
found on Vesuvius. From this crater 
you may walk through the gorge called 
Eliasschlucht to the ridge on which 
stand the ruined arch and turrets of (1.) 
the Castle of Rolandseck, an admirable 
point of view for surveying the Rhine. 
This ruin receives its name from a tra- 
dition that the famous nephew of Char- 
lemagne chose this spot because it com- 
manded a view of the Convent of Non- 
nenwerth, within whose walls his be- 
trothed bride had taken the veil upon 
hearing a false report of his having 
fallen at Roncesvalles. He lived here 
a lonely hermit for many years, accord- 
ing to the story, which has furnished 
the subject of one of Schiller's most 
beautiful ballads, " The Knight of Tog- 
genburg." The scene, however, has 
been transferred by Schiller from the 
Rhine to Switzerland, and the tale to 
the time of the Crusades. The castle 
is called, in the oldest records where it 
is mentioned, Rulcheseck, and the con- 
vent Rulcheswerth. The former was, 
at one time, a nest of robbers, whose 
depredations rendered them the terror 
of the vicinity. 

The bold and precipitous rock of 
Rolandseck, composed of prismatic 
basalt, with its scanty and mouldering 
baronial fortress and desolate arch, is a 
very striking object from the river, and, 
taken together with the Drachenfels on 
the opposite bank, serves as a fit portal 
to the grand scenery which lies above 
it. It projects so far forward, that the 
high road has barely room to pass be- 
tween its foot and the brink of the 



Rhine. There are 2 inns near the foot 
of the rock of Rolandseck. Exactly 
opposite, and in the middle of the 
stream, is the island of Nonnenwerth 
(Nun's island), so called from the large 
building upon it, embowered in trees, 
an Ursuline nunnery, built 1673, on 
the site of that which was once the 
asylum of the bride of the unfortunate 
Roland. The amiable intercession of 
Josephine with Napoleon, on behalf of 
the nuns, is said to have preserved to 
them the possession of their ancient 
retreat, at the time when the other re- 
ligious establishments on the Rhine 
were secularised by the French. It 
was for some time converted into an 
inn, but still remains in the condition 
in which it was left by its former 
inmates, and was about to be again 
converted into a nunnery, when the 
teoubles of 1 848 interrupted the plan. 

1. Oberwinter, a village through 
which the road passes. 

The greater part of the road from 
Rolandseck to Remagen may be said 
to be literally quarried in the rock. It 
was begun by the Bavarians, continued 
by the French, and completed by the 
Prussians, The Romans, however, 
have the credit of laying the founda- 
tions of this noble highway, as was 
proved by remains turned up by the 
modern road-makers, such as coffins, 
coins, and a Roman milestone, the in- 
scription of which proved, that under 
Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus, 
a.d. 161-180, a road had been already 
formed here. 

1. Opposite the village of Unkel is 
the Unkelstein, a hill composed of ba- 
saltic columns, resembling those of the 
Giant's Causeway. They are found 
both in a horizontal and vertical posi- 
tion, and extend far into the bed of the 
Rhine, where they formed an obstacle 
to the passage of timber-rafts, until the 
rock was blown up by the French. As 
it is, the current of the Rhine sweeps 
with great force past the Unkelstein. 
The basalt affords the best material for 
roads and pavements, on which account 
it is extensively quarried. In 1846 a 
landslip in the basalt lifted up the high- 
road 40 ft. above its former level. 

1. Apollinarisberg, a wooded height 



264 ROUTE 37 ♦ — THE RHINE (c), REMAGEN". LINZ. Sect. IV. 



named after a Saint, whose head is pre- 
served here. It is surmounted by a 
beautiful Gothic Church, built from de- 
signs of Zwirner (the restorer of the 
Dom of Cologne), by Baron Fiirsten- 
berg of Stammheim ; it is lighted, ex- 
cept in the choir, by circular windows, 
and decorated internally with frescoes. 
These, as some of the latest and most 
lauded of the works of the German 
fresco-painters, are well worth the tra- 
veller's attention, and especially of all 
English artists. The subjects and 
artists are as follows : — Entering by 
the "W. door : on the 1. are scenes from 
the life of Christ, by Deger. In the 
N. transept, St. Apollinaris destroying, 
through prayer, the statue of Jupiter 
in the presence of the Roman Empr., 
by A. Mutter. Figures of Saints, by 
Ittenbach. The Crucifixion, and, be- 
neath, the Passion of Christ, by Deger. 
Justice, Prudence, Fortitude, and Tem- 
perance, by Ittenbach. Martyrdom of 
St. Apollinaris, by A. Mutter. In the 
choir : on the 1. the Resurrection of 
Christ, by Deger. Noli me tangere, 
and Delivery of the Keys to Peter, by 
Ittenbach. On the arch of the apse, the 
Adoration of the Lamb, and the Sacra- 
ments, by C. Mutter. In the apse, 
Christ among the Saints of the old and 
new Covenant, by Deger. On the rt. 
of the choir, the Coronation of the 
Virgin, by C. Mutter. In the S. 
transept, the episcopal ordination of St. 
Apollinaris, by A. Mutter. SS. Theo- 
dore, Sophia, Francis of Assisi, and V. 
Paula, patrons of the founder and his 
family, by Ittenbach. Annunciation, 
Marriage, and Visitation of the Virgin 
(close to the window), by C. Mutter. 
Faith, Love, Hope, and Humility, by 
Ittenbach. St. Apollinaris raises the 
daughter of the Governor of Ravenna, 
by A. Mutter. On the rt. on entering 
by the "W. door, Scenes from the Le- 
gends of the Virgin, by Ittenbach. There 
is a very good distant view of the 7 
mountains from the Apollinarisberg. 
At the foot of the hill lies 

1. 2| Remagen (Inns : Konig von 
Preussen ; Preussischer Hof, the best 
between Andernach and Bonn), the 
Rigomagus of the Romans, a town 
of 1400 inhab- it has nothing to in- 



terest the traveller, except the Ro- 
manesque Gateway, part of the Palace 
of the Frankish kings, now leading to 
the Pfarrhof, close to the church, on 
which are sculptured the signs of the 
zodiac, executed probably at the end of 
the 11th cent, (these signs are seen on 
the portals of the Lombard churches in 
Italy) : it may be seen while the horses 
are changing. During the construc- 
tion of the high road many Roman 
antiquities were dug up here. A most 
interesting excursion may be made 
hence by the Ahr valley (Rte. 39). 
Landing here from the steamer, hire a 
carriage with post-horses at the post, 
sleep at Altenahr, and return next 
morning with the same horses. The 
cost is about 7| thalers for carriage 
and 3 horses, including driver, with an 
extra charge for horse-keep of 1 thaler 
at Altenahr. 

rt. A little beyond Remagen, on the 
opposite bank, rise the basaltic preci- 
pices, 700 ft. high, called Erpeler lei. 
The ingenuity of man has converted 
these barren rocks, which are almost 
inaccessible, into a productive vine- 
yard. The vines are planted in baskets 
filled with mould, and inserted in cre- 
vices of the basalt. By this means alone 
can the earth be preserved from being 
washed away by every shower. 

rt. The blackened walls of the ruined 
castle of Ockenfels. And a little further 
on is 

rt. Linz (Inns : ISTassauer Hof; 
Rheinischer Hof, on the bank of the 
river), an ancient fortified town, partly 
surrounded by walls of basalt ; it has 
2200 inhab. An Archbp. of Cologne, 
in 1365, built the tower, still standing, 
near the Rhine gate, to enforce the pay- 
ment of tolls on the river, and to defend 
the place from the Burghers of Ander- 
nach, who were engaged in almost per- 
petual feuds with him and the towns- 
people of Linz. The Pfarrkirche, on 
the height behind, commands a fine 
view ; it contains some curious monu- 
ments of the noble families of the 
neighbourhood, and 2 ancient pictures, 
each of 7 compartments, probably of 
the school of Cologne, bearing the date 
1463 ; unfortunately almost destroyed. 
A cross 40 ft. high has been placed on 



Bhen. Prussia, route 37. — the rhine (c). sinzig. broiil. 265 



the top of the Hummelsberg, a hill he- 
hind Linz, as a memorial of the Battle 
of Leipzig. 

1. The river Ahr issues into the 
Rhine opposite Linz. As its mouth is 
passed, the black conical summit of the 
Landskrone is seen up the Ahr valley. 

1. 1J Sinzig (Inns: Stern; Krone), 
about 1| m. from the Rhine, but tra- 
versed by the high road, was the Sentia- 
cum of the Romans. The Parish Church 
is an interesting building, of the time 
of the transition from the round to the 
pointed style, dating probably from the 
beginning of the 1 3th cent. The deco- 
ration of the "W. front, and of the ends 
of the transepts, resemble, on a smaller 
scale, those of the ch. at Neuss. The 
transition style is seen in the polygonal 
form of the choir, with a gable over each 
side. The interior resembles the ch. 
at Andernach, in having both pointed 
and circular arches, and over each aisle 
a gallery, called here the Mcmnhaus. 
According to an obscure tradition, 
near this spot the Cross appeared in 
the sky to Constantine, on his march 
to attack Maxentius. There is a rude 
painting representing this event in the 
church ; and in an adjoining chapel a 
natural mummy, called the Holy Vogt, 
carried to Paris by the French. 

rt. The gable-fronted chateau of Ar- 
genfels or Ahrenfels, the Stammhaus, 
or cradle of the family von der Ley en, 
is seen in the distance behind the an- 
cient village of Honningen. 

1. The village of Niederbreisig, and, 
further from the river, Oberbreisig, with 
a curious ch. of the 14th cent. 

1. The Castle of Bheineck, consisting 
of an ancient watch-tower and a mo- 
dern castellated residence adjoining, 
built, at a lavish expense, by Lassaulx, 
for Profr. Bethman-Hollweg, of Bonn. 
The architectural taste displayed in 
this edifice is very questionable ; but it 
contains some modern pictures, and in 
its chapel are frescoes of the Beatitudes 
by Steinle. It is shown to strangers 
when the owner is absent. Its garden 
commands a fine view. 

1. Brohl, a small village (Nonn's 

Inn, tolerable), at the mouth of the 

stream and valley of the Brohl. It 

possesses a paper-mill, in which is a 

[n. g.] 



collection of Dutch pictures, and several 
others moved by the streams of the 
Brohl-Bach for grinding tuff-stone into 
trass (Dutch tiras — i. e. cement) ; and 
there are very singular cave-like quar- 
ries of tuff-stone about a mile up the 
stream. From the resemblance of this 
rock to the tufa formed at the present 
day by Etna, Vesuvius, and other ac- 
tive volcanoes, geologists conjecture 
that the tufa of Brohl has been formed 
either by a torrent of volcanic mud 
discharged from some extinct crater 
into the valley, or by showers of pu- 
mice and ashes, thrown up by one of 
the volcanoes of the Eifel, falling into 
a lake, mixing with the mud at the 
bottom of it, and now consolidated into 
a soft stone. This, when quarried and 
ground into powder, is called trass, and 
from its possessing the valuable pro- 
perty of hardening under water is in 
great request as a cement. Large 
quantities are exported from this to 
distant countries, especially into Hol- 
land, where it is employed in the con- 
struction of the dykes ; it resembles 
the puzzolana of Naples, and the imi- 
tation of it, Roman cement. The an- 
cients made use of this kind of stone 
for coffins; and from its property of 
absorbing the moisture of the dead 
body, gave them the name of sarcophagi, 
i. e. flesh consumers. Votive tablets, 
bearing Roman inscriptions, have ac- 
tually been discovered in the quarries, 
proving at how early a period they 
were worked. Trunks of trees reduced 
to the condition of charcoal, and even 
land-rshells of various species, are em- 
bedded in the substance of the rock. 

The mineral spring called Tonnis- 
stein lies 4§ m. up the valley. (See 
R. 40, p. 296). 

[The pleasant excursion to the Lake 
of Laach, described in Rte. 40, may be 
made from Brohl. The travelling car- 
riage should be sent on to Andernach, 
and there rejoined. This excursion may 
be made in one long day.] 

rt. On the summit of a bold, black, 
precipitous rock, opposite to an island 
in the river, stand the broken walls 
of Hammerstein castle, built in the 
10th cent., the refuge in 1105 of the 
Emperor Henry IV., when persecuted 

N 



266 



ROUTE 37. THE RHINE (c). ANDERNACH. Sect. IV. 



by his son. It was besieged by the 
Swedes in the 30 years' war, and de- 
stroyed by the Archbp. of Cologne in 
1660. The small old church within it 
is interesting. 

1. Namedy has a pretty church. 

2"f (1.) Andernach {Inn : Zur Lilie, 
The Lily, good), — one of the oldest 
cities on the Rhine, 3000 inhab. It 
was called by the Romans Antonacum, 
and originated in one of Drusus' camps 
pitched on the spot. Most of the pre- 
sent fortifications date from 1577-83. 
The picturesque telescope Watch-tower, 
at the lower end of the town, by the 
water-side, round below, and eight- 
sided above (date 1520), and the Crane, 
a little lower down the stream, built 
1554, add to its air of picturesque an- 
tiquity. 

There are 2 articles of traffic pe- 
culiar to this spot : millstones obtained 
from very singular quarries near JNieder- 
Mendig, and exported to England, 
Russia, the East and "West Indies, and 
to other remote parts of the world. 
They were used by the Romans, and 
have been found among Roman ruins 
in England, and are spoken of as Rhe- 
nish millstones by Latin authors. The 
stone is a species of basaltic lava which 
separates into columns, and is used as 
door-posts, window-sills, and side-posts 
at the corners of the streets, &c. (Rte. 
40.) Another volcanic production is 
the trass, or cement, brought from the 
neighbouring quarries of Brohl and 
Kraft. A species of pumice called 
Oven-stone, because, from its resisting 
heat, it is used for lining ovens, is also 
obtained from 14 quarries at Bell near 
Nieder-Mendig (p. 297). 

The Parish Ch. or Dom has 4 towers ; 
those at the W. end tall and much or- 
namented ; the greater part of it was 
built in the beginning of the 13th cent., 
but the choir, the tower on its N. side, 
and the lower part of that on its S. 
side, belong probably to a preceding 
church of the 10th, which so far es- 
caped the destruction of Andernach 
by Philip of Hohenstaufen about 1200. 
A bas-relief over the S. door, the carv- 
ings of the capitals which support it, 
and the ornaments on the W. facade, 
are interesting specimens of sculpture. 



The interior is supported upon 2 
tiers of arches of nearly equal height ; 
behind the upper tier runs a spacious 
gallery, intended for the male part of 
the congregation, and called the man- 
nerchor, or mannshaus ; the women sate 
below. It contains some curious carv- 
ings, and a Roman tomb, erroneously 
said to be of Valentinian II. The pul- 
pit once belonged to the abbey ch. at 
Laach. The Franciscan ch. 1414-63, 
now a stable, has only 2 aisles. 

Beneath the Rathhaus is a Jevjs' 
Bath, of considerable antiquity (per- 
haps Roman). It has not been used 
since the Jews were expelled from the 
town, 1596 ; they have never since 
been allowed to settle here. 

The Coblenz Gate is an elegant Go- 
thic portal, not a Roman work, as is 
commonly reported. Adjoining it, on 
the rt. of the road, are the extensive 
ruins of the castellated Palace of the 
Archbishops of Cologne, built about 
the end of the 15th cent. The Palace 
of the Austrasian kings stood either on 
this spot or close to the river, near an 
old gateway, which is possibly of Ro- 
man origin. 

A short distance off, on the rt of 
the road, are the noble ruins of the 
Abbey of St. Thomas, a convent for 
ladies of rank, which was burnt in 1795. 
It is now turned into a very extensive 
tannery, and partly into an asylum for 
incurable lunatics. The architecture 
of St. Michael's chapel, attached to it, 
is interesting : it was built in 1129. 

The excursion to the lake and abbey 
of Laach (Rte. 40) may be made in a 
carriage from hence, as a tolerable 
road leads thither through Wassenach 
(6 m.) 

At Andernach the mountains on 
both sides of the Rhine again approach 
the river, and form a majestic defile. 

rt. At the water's edge stands the 
ruined castle of Friedriclisstein, or the 
Teufelshaus, i. e. Devil's House; so 
called probably by the peasants, or 
serfs, who were compelled to build it 
by forced labour. It was begun in the 
17th cent, by a prince of Neuwied, but 
never finished. 

rt. Just above the village of Irrlich 
the small river "Wied issues out into 



Ehen. Prussia, route 37. — neuwied. weissenthurm. 



267 



the Rhine. A long avenue, partly of 
tall poplars, joins Irrlich with, the 
town of 

rt. Neuwicd (Iyins : Rheinischer Hof ; 
Anker ; Wilder Mann, 2nd class ; 
Caesar's Hotel, good), a neat and uni- 
form town of straight streets, cross- 
ing each other at right angles (5200 
inhab.), the capital of the principal- 
ity of Wied, now mediatized, and 
attached to Prussia. It was founded 
only as far hack as 1737 by a prince 
who invited colonists of all persua- 
sions, from all parts, to come and 
settle, with a promise of perfect tolera- 
tion. The wisdom of such liberality 
has been proved by the flourishing con- 
dition of the industrious manufacturing 
town which has sprung up in conse- 
quence, and by the harmony in which 
Jews, Catholics, Protestants, and Herrn- 
huters live all together. 

The Palace (Residenz Schloss) of 
the prince, overlooking the Rhine, pos- 
sesses a collection of Eoman antiquities, 
discovered in this neighbourhood, and 
principally derived from the buried 
city of Victoria, near the village of 
Niederbiber, 2 m. IS", of Neuwied. 
The objects brought to light comprise 
a bronze genius nearly 2 ft. high, ar- 
mour, helmets, weapons, a plough- 
share, locks and keys, tools of various 
trades, a sacrificial knife, pottery 
and coins in great abundance, tiles, 
hand-mills ; bones of deer, pigs, dogs, 
and a large quantity of oyster- shells ; 
proving that the garrison of a remote 
colony in the 3rd cent, sent all the 
way to the sea for the luxuries of the 
table. Many tiles have been found 
stamped with the names and numbers 
of the legions quartered here. No 
coins have come to light of a later 
date than the time of Valentinian the 
elder, who died A.d. 375, which fixes 
the date of the destruction of Victoria 
with an approach to precision. The 
remains of the city from which these 
curiosities were derived have long 
since been covered up, and crops of 
corn and grass again wave above its 
site. 

In the building called the Phea- 
santry (Fasanerie Gebaude) is the Mu- 
seum of Natural History, principally 



remarkable for the collections made 
by Prince Maximilian of Neuwied dur- 
ing his travels in Brazil and North 
America. 

The Colony of Moravian Brothers 
exceeds 400, who occupy a distinct 
quarter of Neuwied : their establish- 
ment, church, schools, and workshops 
are worth seeing. 

The park and gardens of the chateau 
of Monrepos, situated between the Wied 
and the Rhine, 6 m. N.N.E. from Neu- 
wied, form a pleasant excursion, and 
afford beautiful prospects. 

There is a flying bridge over the 
Rhine at Neuwied. 

From Andernach to Coblenz the 
banks of the Rhine are flat. 

(1.) Weissenthurm (White Tower), 
so called from the square watch-tower 
built by the electors of Treves to mark 
the frontier of their domain, is a small 
village (whose new church is decorated 
with modern frescoes), through which 
the road passes, a little above Neuwied, 
on the opposite bank. It is remark- 
able as the spot where the French 
crossed the Rhine in spite of the oppo- 
sition of the Austrians in 1797. On 
an eminence behind, to the rt. of the 
road, stands an Obelisk, erected to the 
memory of the French general Hoche, 
who achieved that memorable exploit 
by throwing a bridge across to the 
island in the middle of the river. The 
monument bears the simple inscription, 
" L'Armee de Sambre et Meuse a son 
General Hoche." Byron says of it, 
"This is all, and as it should be; Hoche 
was esteemed among the first of France's 
earlier generals, until Napoleon mono- 
polised her triumphs. He was the 
destined commander of the invading 
army of Ireland." Caesar, when lead- 
ing his army against the Sicambri, 17 
centuries before, crossed the Rhine at 
the same spot, and has described the 
very curious bridge which he con- 
structed for the passage. 

(1.) Beyond Weissenthurm the road 
quits the side of the Rhine, and con- 
tinues out of sight of it till near to 
Coblenz. 

(rt.) Engers, a small village, with an 
old-fashioned Chateau, built 1758 by 
the Elector of Treves, facing the river ; 

n2 



268 



ROUTE 37. — THE RHINE (c). MARCEAU. Sect. IV. 



a short way above this the remains of 
a Roman bridge, huilt B.C. 38, are dis- 
coverable in the bed of the river. 

(rt.) Miihlhofen, a village at the 
mouth of the river Sayn. [A good road 
strikes up the valley behind the village 
of Bendorf, and leads, in 3 m. from En- 
gers, and about 8 m, from Coblenz, 
to the village and modern Chateau of 
Sayn, belonging to the Count Boos, 
overlooked by the picturesque ruins of 
the old castle of Sayn, destroyed in the 
30 years' war, above which rises the 
romantic Renneberg, Not far off are 
the Boyal Cannon Foundry and Iron 
Works (Sayner Hiitte), equal in extent 
to some of the most considerable iron- 
works in England : very pretty cast- 
iron ornaments, similar to the black 
ware of Berlin, are made here. At the 
village of Sayn is a suppressed Prae- 
monstrant abbey, founded 1202, with a 
church in the transition style, having 
a pointed arch, cupola, and a choir 
formed by 6 sides of an octagon, built 
1400. At the upper extremity of the 
Valley is the castle of the Counts of 
Isenburg, whence they used to sally 
forth and plunder the merchants upon 
the Rhine. The whole valley is beau- 
tiful ; the stream of the Sayn gives it 
verdure ; its woody sides afford a cool 
shelter even in summer, and are inter- 
sected with walks, and provided with 
seats and summer-houses. It is a 
favourite excursion of the people of 
Coblenz. N. of the valley, about 1| m. 
N. of Sayn, and as far N.E. of Engers, 
on the slope of a hill, stands the 
noble abbey Rommersdorf. The church 
was consecrated in 1210 : the chapter- 
house and cloister were built between 
1214-1236. The mouldings of the 
doors and arches, the quatrefoil opem- 
ings and pointed arches of the cloister, 
show the approach of the pointed style. 
The abbey has become the property of 
a private individual, and is well pre- 
served.] 

(rt.) The walls and buildings of the 
Castle of Mrenbreitstein (p. 271), on the 
top of its massive and commanding 
rock pedestal, are visible long before 
Coblenz appears behind the green 
slopes of the 1. bank. 

1. Neuendorf: here the compara- 



tively small timber-rafts from the upper 
Rhine and its tributaries, and from the 
Moselle, are formed into the large rafts 
which descend to Holland (see p. 255). 

(1.) Near Kesselheim are remains of 
the chateau of Schonbornlust, originally 
a palace of the Elector of Treves, and 
only remarkable because it was the 
residence of the Bourbon princes and 
their supporters who were exiled from 
France during the first revolution. It 
became the head-quarters of the army 
of the refugees and their allies, and 
their plans of invading France were 
here concocted. The part of the build- 
ing now • standing serves as an inn. 
The plain between Andernach and 
Coblenz becomes every 3 years the 
scene of very extensive military re- 
views of the Prussian army ; 25,000 
men are manoeuvred on these occasions, 
usually in August or September, for 
the space of one month. 

(1.) Near the junction of the Mo- 
selle and Rhine stands the " Monument 
of the young and lamented General 
Marceau, killed at the battle of Alten- 
kirchen, in attempting to check the 
retreat of Jourdan, on the last day of 
the 4th year of the French republic." 
(Sept. 21, 1796.) 

" By Coblentz, on a rise of gentle ground, 
There is a small and simple pyramid, 
Crowning the summit of the verdant mound ; 
Beneath its base are heroes' ashes hid, 
Our enemy's — but let not that forbid 
Honour to Marceau! o'er whose early tomb 
Tears, big tears, gush'd from the rough sol- 
dier's lid, 
Lamenting and yet envying such a doom, 
Falling for France, whose rights he battled to 
resume. 

" Brief, brave, and glorious was his young 

career, — 
His mourners were two hosts, his friends 

and foes ; 
And fitly may the stranger lingering here 
Pray for his gallant spirit's bright repose ; 
For he was Freedom's champion, one of 

those, 
The few in number, who had not o'erstept 
The charter to chastise which she bestows 
On such as wield her weapons ; he had kept 
The whiteness of his soul, and thus men o'er 

him wept." Byron. 

Byron adds : " The inscriptions on 
his monument are rather too long, and 
not required : his name was enough. 
France adored, and her enemies ad- 



Ehen. Prussia, route 37. — the rhine (c). coblenz. 



269 



mired ; both wept over him. His 
funeral was attended by the generals 
and detachments from both armies." 
It was in allusion to the last circum- 
stance that the words of the Imperial 
captain, in whose arms Bayard breathed 
his last under nearly similar circum- 
stances, were inscribed on the monu- 
ment: " Je voudrais qu'il ni'eut coute 
le quart de mon sang, et vous tinse 
en sante, mon prisonnier ! quoique je 
sais que l'Empercur mon maitre n'eut 
en scs guerres plus rude ni facheux 
ennemi." — Me'moires de Bayard. On 
another side of the monument were 
inscribed the words, " Qui que tu sois, 
ami ou ennemi, de ce jeune heros 
respecte les cendres." 

This injunction has not been exactly 
complied with. The monument ori- 
ginally stood where the fort Empr. 
Francis now stands, but was pulled 
down in 1817 to make room for it. 
Hoche was buried in the grave with 
Marceau, though his monument is at 
Weissenthurm. Whether the bodies 
were removed or not is not clearly as- 
certained ; but some time after the tomb 
was rebuilt at the command of the late 
King of Prussia, in a field to the rt. of 
the road from Cologne to Coblenz. 

1. After passing under the works of 
the Fort Empr. Francis, which the 
French commenced and called Fort 
Marceau, ;the road crosses the Moselle 
by a handsome stone bridge a short 
distance above its confluence with the 
Rhine, and enters Coblenz. 

The breaking up of the frost is some- 
times attended with danger to the town 
of Coblenz. In the spring of 1830 the 
ice on the Moselle came down while the 
Rhine was still frozen over ; and being- 
forced on by the current, while there 
was no outlet for its discharge, was 
raised into vast heaps near the junction 
of the river, so as to overtop the stone 
bridge across the Moselle, and the quays 
along its banks. Indeed, but for these 
quays, then recently built, it is pro- 
bable some of the houses in the lower 
town would have been injured, as the 
icebergs were piled up against them to 
a height of 10 ft., and the boats moored 
in front of them were crushed by the 
weight. The water of the Moselle rose 



so high as to break over the tongue of 
land on its 1. bank, threatening de- 
struction to the village of Neuendorf, 
whose inhabitants took to flight ; and it 
even floated up the Rhine on the top of 
the ice as far as Boppart / The fields 
between the 2 rivers were covered with 
ice, and all communication by the road 
cut off. 

The vast Palace of the Electors of 
Treves (now the King's) (p. 270), ex- 
tending along the bank of the Rhine, is 
conspicuous as the steamer reaches her 
moorings off 

2± 1. Coblenz. — Inns : the 3 follow- 
ing face the Rhine; the Giant (Riese), 
nearest to the landing - place of the 
steamers, is good and moderate, but 
complaints are made of the beds. — C. 
Charges : table-d'hote, with wine, 24 
S. gr. ; tea 10 S. gr. ; breakfast 12 S. 
gr, ; beds 15 S. gr. to 21 S. gr. H. 
Bellevue, and, next door to it, the Trois 
Suisses ; Trierischer Hof (Poste), in 
the great Square. Those who do not 
mind crossing the bridge to Ehren- 
brcitstein will find the "White Horse 
(Zum "Weissem Ross — Cheval Blanc) one 
of the best managed hotels on the Rhine. 
The landlord is a ci-devant major in 
the Wtirtemberg army. 

Coblenz is a strongly fortified town, 
on the 1. bank of the Rhine, and rt. of 
the Moselle (Germ. Mosel). The 
Romans called it Confluentes, mo- 
dernised into Coblenz, from its situa- 
tion at the confluence of these 2 rivers. 
It is the capital of the Rhenish provinces 
of Prussia, and its population, includ- 
ing that of Ehrenbreitstein and 4000 
men in garrison, is 26,000. 

The extensive fortifications, which 
occupied nearly 20 years to complete, 
connect the works on the 1. bank of 
the Rhine with the citadel of Ehren- 
breitstein on the rt. bank, and render 
Coblenz the bulwark of Germany and 
Prussia on the side of France. These 
vast ■ defences form a fortified camp, 
capable of containing 100,000 men, and 
are unique in their way, combining the 
2 systems of fortification of Carnot and 
Montalcmbert. 

The works round the town, external 
and detached, are the Fort Kaiser 
Franz below it, on the 1. bank of the 



270 



ROUTE 37. THE RHINE (c). COBLENZ. Sect. IV. 

of Bavaria, who installed him in front 
of this church Vicar of the Empire, in 
order that he might secure the succour 
of the Crown-vassals on the 1. hank of 
the Rhine, to aid him in his designs 
against France. 

In the square in front of this church 
stands a Monument, erected hy the 
French in 1812. It is a, Fountain, hear- 
ing an inscription to commemorate the 
Invasion of Russia hy the French, 
affixed to it hy the French Prefet of 
the Departement, at the time of Na- 
poleon's expedition. This inscription 
had not stood many months before the 
Russians, pursuing the army of Na- 
poleon, arrived here on their way to 
Paris. Their commander, St. Priest, 
instead of erasing the obnoxious words, 
contented himself with the following 
sarcastic addition, which remains to the 
present time : " Vu et approuve par 
nous, Commandant Russe de la Yille de 
Coblence, Janvier l er , 1814." 

The Liebfrauenkirche is very curious, 
with early pointed arches and scalloped 
windows in the style of Cologne. It 
was originally built in 1259 ; the choir 
1404-1431; the vaulting about 1500; 
the upper parts of the towers after the 
siege of 1688. The Protestant Church 
contains fine painted glass, very early, 
in the style of that in the Jerusalem 
Chamber at Westminster, brought from 
Nassau. The person who keeps the 
keys lives in one of the oldest houses in 
Europe, close to the Ch.— F. S. 

The Moselle Bridge (b. 1344) com- 
mands a pleasing view up and down 
the river, and along the picturesque 
old buildings which line the quay. 
Below it, on the rt., rise the ancient 
Town Hall, and the original Castle of 
the Electors of Treves, built 1280, now 
a manufactory of Japan ware. One of 
the first buildings on the 1. hand, after 
passing through the archway from the 
bridge, is the " Stammhaus" (family 
house) of Prince Metternich, the late 
Austrian Prime Minister, who was born 
in it. There are many other seats of 
the ancient nobility of the empire, as 
that of the Princes von der Leyen, 
Counts Bassenheim, Elz, &c. The Hos- 
pital is under the exemplary manage- 
ment of the " Scem-s de la Charite." 



Moselle, which commands the approach 
from Cologne and Treves ; the forts 
Alexander and Constantino, above the 
town, on the site of the convent of the 
Chartreuse, command the roads to May-< 
ence and that oyer the Hundsriick 
mountains ; and lastly, the many- 
mouthed batteries of Ehrenbreitstein, 
with some important works on neigh- 
bouring heights, sweep the stream of 
the Rhine and the road to Nassau. 

The presence of the military and 
civil government, and of an extensive 
garrison ; the situation of the town in 
the centre of the great highway up and 
down the Rhine, nearly equi-distant 
from Cologne and Mayence, at the 
point of junction of the roads to Frank- 
furt and by Treves to Paris ; its vici- 
nity to the fashionable watering-place 
Ems ; and the number of persons daily 
arriving and departing by coaches, car- 
riages, and steamboats, render Coblenz 
a lively and bustling place, especially 
in summer. 

The objects worth notice in the Old 
Town are — 

The Ch. of St. Castor, at the very 
confluence of the 2 rivers, distinguished 
by its 4 towers, and remarkable for its 
very great antiquity, having been 
" built chiefly at the expense, and con- 
secrated in the presence, of Louis the 
Pious (in 836), and is the earliest in- 
stance of the appearance' of the Lom- 
bard style in the Rhenish provinces." — 
G. K. It was the place where the 
grandsons of Charlemagne met (843) 
to divide his "vast empire into Germany, 
France, and Italy. The oldest parts 
are the interior of the choir, and the 
lower walls of the western towers. In 
the 11th cent, it suffered from fire; 
the exterior of the choir dates from 
1157 and 1201 ; the nave and transept 
from 1208; the vaulting from 1498. 
In 1830 the church was restored under 
the direction of Lassaulx. On the 1. 
of the chancel stands the beautiful tomb 
of Cuno of Falkenstein, Archbp. of 
Treves (d. 1388) ; it is of the 14th cent., 
and is ornamented with a painting of 
the Crucifixion, attributed to the old 
German master, William of Cologne. 

In 1338 King Edward III. repaired 
to Coblenz to meet the Emp. Lewis 



Rhen. Prussia, route 37. — the rhine (c). ehrenbreitstein. 271 



The principal building in the New 
2hwn is the Palace of the King, who 
has caused it to he fitted up for his 
summer residence. Its long and hand- 
some facade extends along the Rhine, 
above the Bridge of Boats ; its prin- 
cipal front is turned towards the Great 
Square, near which the parade is held 
between 12 and 1 o'clock, when the 
band plays. It was built by the last 
Elector of Treves, Clement Wences- 
laus, Prince of Poland, Duke of Saxony, 
and uncle of Louis XVI., 1778-1788. 
The building was degraded by the 
French into barracks. It contains 
nothing worth notice. 

The Service of the Church of England is 
performed in the beautiful Palace Chapel 
by an English clergyman twice every 
Sunday. On the top of the palace 
stands a telegraph, the first of a line 
which communicates a message to Ber- 
lin in about half an hour. 

The new Palace of Justice contains 
the Law Courts, which are open to the 
public. Justice is administered by 
judges in gowns, but without wigs, 
and by trial by jury. The assizes are 
held every 3 months. 

The Casino, or town club, is of chaste 
architecture ; it has an elegant ball- 
room, good reading-rooms, and gardens. 

Close at hand is an ancient Convent 
of Jesuits, now the grammar-school. 
The Cellars beneath it well deserve to 
be visited from their vast extent ; they 
are so lofty and wide that a stage-coach 
loaded might easily drive round them. 
They belong to Messrs. Deinhard and 
Jordan, bankers and wine-merchants 
here, and contain about 300 vats of 
Rhine and Moselle wines, each equal to 
7 ohms, or all together to about 400,000 
bottles. 

A very agreeable sparkling wine is 
made from the grapes of the Rhine 
and Moselle; and the vines which 
grow under the very guns of Ehren- 
breitstein furnish, under skilful ma- 
nagement, a highly flavoured wine, 
which is no bad substitute for Cham- 
pagne. 

Coblenz is a free port, and carries on 
an active commerce up and down the 
3 rivers, Rhine, Moselle, and Lahn, 
supplying the country around with 



colonial produce. From its vicinity 
to the wine districts it forms the na- 
tural staple place of the Rhine and 
Moselle wines, going down the river 
to Great Britain, Holland, and other 
parts of the world. About a million 
jars of Seltzers and other mineral 
waters from the duchy of Nassau are 
shipped annually from hence. Corn 
and the excellent iron of the neigh- 
bourhood are exported up the Moselle 
into France. The volcanic produc- 
tions of this country form very peculiar 
articles of trade ; such are the lava 
itself, in the shape of millstones, and 
the ashes, or pumice-stone, ground to 
form Dutch tiras : these, as well as 
potter's clay from the Moselle, bark 
from the forests of the Eifel and Huns- 
driick, and stoneware from the Sauer- 
land, a mountainous and poor district 
of Westphalia, N. of the Duchy of 
Nassau, are much in request in Hol- 
land. 

Neuendorf, a little below Coblenz, is 
the rendezvous for the great timber- 
rafts. 

No town on the Rhine surpasses 
Coblenz in the beauty of its situation : 
from whatever side you approach, by 
land or water, it presents a beautiful 
picture. The views from the centre of 
the bridge of boats, from the heights 
of Ehrenbreitstein, of Pfaffendorf, o» 
of the Chartreuse, are all fine. 

The most interesting object in the 
vicinity, on account of its towering and 
majestic appearance, for the glorioxis 
view of the junction of the Rhine and 
Moselle, and of the course of the Rhine 
from Stolzenfels down to Anclernach, 
which it commands, and for the vast 
extent of its fortifications, is the rock 
and fortress of 

(rt.) Ehrenbreitstein (honour's 
broad stone), the Gibraltar of the Rhine, 
connected with Coblenz by a bridge of 
boats. An order to sec it must be ob- 
tained from the commandant in Coblenz 
(Regierungsgebaude), which a valet- 
de-place will easily procure on present- 
ing the passport. 

This fortress, originally a Roman 
Castrum, was, during the middle ages, 
the refuge and stronghold of the Elec- 
tors of Treves, who, in later times, 



272 ROUTE 37. THE RHINE (c). EHRENBREITSTEIN. Sect. IV. 

occupied the Palace (now a flour -ware- 
house) at the foot of the rock, hefore 
the erection of their more princely re- 
sidence on the opposite side of the 
Rhine. It was in vain hesieged by the 
French in 1688, under Marshal Bouf- 
flers, notwitstanding the celebrated 
Vauban directed the works against it, 
and although Louis XIV. repaired 
hither in order to be the eye-witness of 
•its surrender. But it fell into their 
hands in 1799, after a siege, in which 
the garrison was reduced to such ex- 
tremities from want of food, that a cat 
sold for 1\ florin, and horse-flesh rose 
to 30 kreutzers per pound. It was 
blown up by the French when they 
evacuated it after the peace of Lune- 
ville. 



" Here Ehrenbreitstein, with her shatter'd 

wall 
Black with the miner's blast upon her height, 
Yet shows of what she was, when shell and 

ball 
Rebounding idly on her strength did light 
A tower of victory ! from whence the llight 
Of baffled foes was watch'd along the plain ; 
But Peace destroy'd what War could never 

blight, 
And laid those proud roofs bare to Summer's 

rain — 
On which the iron shower for years had pour'd 

in vain." — Byron. 

It is now no longer a ruin. Since 
1814 the Prussians have spared no 
pains or cost in restoring it, and add- 
ing new works, which have been only 
recently brought to a conclusion, and 
it is considered to be stronger than 
ever. Prussia devoted to the re-con- 
struction of this fortress her share of 
the contribution which France was 
compelled to pay the Allies after the 
war : but more than 4 times that sum 
has probably been expended on it by 
the Prussian government. The entire 
cost of the works on both sides of the 
Rhine at Coblenz is estimated to have 
exceeded 5 millions of dollars ; and al- 
though they may be converted into a 
fortified camp holding 100,000 men, 
yet a garrison of 5000 is enough to 
defend them. The magazines are ca- 
pable of containing provisions for 8000 
men for 10 years. 

Ehrenbreitstein is defended by about 
400 pieces of cannon. The escarped 
rocks, or steep slopes, on 3 sides, would 



bid defiance to almost buj assault : its 
weak point is on the N.\V~. Here, 
however, art has done its utmost to 
repair a natural defect, and 3 lines of 
defences present themselves, one within 
another, which would require to be 
taken in succession before the enemy 
could enter in this direction. The 
great platform on the top of the rock, 
serving as a parade, covers vast arched 
cisterns, capable of holding a supply of 
water for 3 years, furnished by springs 
without the walls. There is, besides, 
a well, sunk 400 ft. deep in the rock, 
communicating with the Shine : the 
Rhine water, however, is very un- 
wholesome from the quantity of vege- 
table matter decomposed in it. 

Those who reach Coblenz too late to 
get an order to see Ehrenbreitstein 
may content themselves with the view 
from the Pfaffendorfer Hohe (a hill on 
the same side of the Rhine), which 
is nearly as fine. 

(1.) Hill of the Chartreuse. — The 
view from Ehrenbreitstein is, perhaps, 
even surpassed by that from the heights 
of the Karthauserberg, on the 1. bank 
of the Rhine, about J m. above Coblenz. 
It receives its names from an old con- 
vent, now removed to make way for 
Forts Alexander and Constantine. It 
is nearly as high as Ehrenbreitstein, 
and that stupendous rock and citadel 
form the grandest feature of the view 
from this point : while, by approaching 
the verge of the hill, on one side the 
Rhine is seen, with the fortified heights 
of Pfaffendorf beyond it, and on the 
other side the Moselle flows at the 
gazer's feet. 

There are so many interesting spots 
near Coblenz, to which Excursions may 
be made, that it deserves to be chosen 
as a halting-place for some days, (a.) 
To the Castle of Stolzenfels, 3 m. up, on 
the 1. bank of the Rhine, on the road to 
Mayence, p. 274 ; vehicles (einspanner, 
with one horse) may be found near the 
Mainzer Thor to take you there and 
back for one thaler — with 2 horses 
1 th. 10 S. gr. : (6.) to the top of the 
Kuhkopf, the highest hill near Coblenz : 
(c.) to Lahnstein, on the rt. bank of the 
Rhine, p. 275 : (d.) to Sayn, and the 
Abbey of Rommersdorf, p. 268. Tours 



liken. Prussia, route 37. the khine (c). coblenz. 



273 



of a day may be made to the Abbey and 
Lake of Laach (Rte. 40) ; to the Castle 
of Elz (Etc. 41) ; to Neuxried, below 
Engcrs, p. 267 ; to the Castle of Marks- 
burg, p. 275 ; which may be thus ar- 
ranged : — Hire a carriage to Nieder- 
spay, opposite Braubach (2 dollars), 
stopping to see Stolzcnfels and Kbnigs- 
stuhl. Cross the ferry at Niederspay, 
ascend to the Marksburg (2 hours re- 
quired to see it). Descend the Rhine 
in a boat, which costs 20 S. gr., to Me- 
derlahnstein and Coblenz. 

To Ems and Nassau (Rte. 95). 

A pleasant excursion of 2 days may 
be made to the Baths of Bertrich, re- 
turning by the Moselle, and in this 
short space the traveller may enjoy 
some of the most beautiful scenery that 
river presents. (See Rte. 42.) 

The numerous forests around abound 
in game — roes, stags, wild boar, and 
even wolves. The preserves of the 
Duke of Nassau and Prince of Wied are 
richly stocked, and they are known to 
be liberal in admitting foreigners to 
their shooting parties, so that Coblenz 
is good sporting quarters in autumn 
and winter. 

Hints for making the Tour of the 
Rhine, above Coblenz. — The direct road 
to the Brunnen of Nassau (Rte. 95) 
strikes away from the Rhine at Cob- 
lenz ; but as a great part of it is unin- 
teresting, and as some of the finest 
scenery of the Rhine lies between Cob- 
lenz and Bingen, those who wish to 
explore its beauties will find it far pre- 
ferable to adhere to the post-road run- 
ning along the 1. bank as far as Bingen, 
and there, crossing the river into the 
Rheingau, turn off to Wiesbaden. In 
this case it is advisable to make an 
Excursion from Coblenz to Ems, and the 
Castle of Nassau, 6 m. beyond it. (See 
Rte. 95.) A carriage may be hired for 
4-^ dollars to Ems. 

Those who have a week to spare 
may make from Coblenz the tour of 
the beautiful Moselle to Treves (Rte. 
41), returning by the river in the 
steamer (Rte. 42). They who cannot 
spare time to go all the way to Treves 
will find it worth their while to devote 
l£ or 2 days to an excursion to Miin- 
ster-Maifeld, the castle of Elz, and 



the village of Alf, situated on the 
Moselle, at a spot where its scenery is 
most beautiful, and to the Baths of 
Bertrich. (Rte. 42.) 

A good summer's day's excursion 
may be made by hiring a carriage from 
Coblenz to go by the Treves post-road 
through Metternich to Lonnig, where 
are the remains of a fine old Roman- 
esque church, with semicircular apsis, 
colonnade, &c, then to Miinster-Mai- 
feld, p. 309, and so on to the hill 
above Elz, where leave the carriage to 
go to Gondorf, and cross the Moselle 
to Mederfell by the ferry and refresh. 
Meanwhile the traveller can see Elz, 
walk to Moselkern or to Hatzenport, 
there take boat and fall down the river 
to Gondorf or Cobern; after seeing 
which he can from either recross the 
river to his carriage at or near Meder- 
fell, and back to Coblenz by the rt. 
bank, by a new, but bad, carnage -road, 
p. 321. A long day and an early start 
are desirable, as it will be too late to 
return to Coblenz by the down boat, 
and the road is not to be recommended 
in the dark, 

The young peasant girls in the coun- 
try around Coblenz wear before mar- 
riage a very elegant cap richly em- 
broidered, with a silver-gilt arrow or 
stiletto stuck through their hair. 

¥xr st-rate physicians are Dr.Ulrich, Dr. 
Soest, and Dr. Baermann, who under- 
stand English. (For Fees see § 41.) 
The pharmacy of Mr. Mohr is excellent. 

Baedeker, a very intelligent book- 
seller in the Rhein Strasse, 452, leading 
from the bridge, at the corner of the 
square, keeps a good assortment of 
English, French, and German books, 
guide-books, prints, maps, &c, and is 
the publisher of one of the best Tra- 
vellers' Manuals of Conversation. He 
has also translated and printed a Ger- 
man edition of the Handbooks, and is 
personally acquainted with all parts of 
his own country. 

Steamers several times a-day up to 
Mayence and down to Cologne ; up 
the Moselle daily to Treves, in 1^ day, 
returning in 10 hrs. (Rte. 41.) 

Schnellposts (§ 50) to Cologne twice 
a-day : daily to Mayence ; to Treves ; 
to Cassel, by Wetzlar and Giessen, in 

N 3 



274 



R. 38. — -THE RHINE (d). stolzenfels. Sect. IV. 



26 hrs. ; and to Frankfort by Ems, 
Schwalbach, and Wiesbaden. 

Omnibus to Ems several times a-day. 
Droskies (cabs) are much cheaper than 
those hired at the hotels. 

ROUTE 38. 

THE RHINE (d). COBLENZ TO MAYENCE. 

The post-road along the 1. bank of 
the Rhine is 12 Pruss. m. = 56 Eng. 
m. Steamers (5 or 6 daily) upwards in 
8 hrs. ; down in 5 hrs. Schnellpost 
daily in 9 hrs. to Mayence ; in 7£ hrs. 
to Kreuznach by Bingen. 

Immediately above Coblenz the 
mountains close in upon the Rhine, 
which flows through a contracted gorge 
extending as far as Bingen. The dark 
shadows of the mountains, the nume- 
rous feudal castles in ruins, and walled 
and turretecl towns, are the prominent 
features of its unrivalled scenery, the 
effect of which is heightened by his- 
torical associations and the charms of 
romance and chivalry. 

On quitting Coblenz we pass (1.) 
Forts Alexander and Constantine ; and 
on the rt. bank another fort, crowning 
the heights of Pfaffendorf, above a 
village of that name. They have been 
fortified with as much care and expense 
as the citadel itself. 

(rt.) Horchheim is the last Prussian 
village : it is opposite to the island 
Oberwerth, upon which stands the 
country-house of Count Pfaffenhofen, 
formerly a nunnery. 

(1.) Stolzenfels, a castle, finely placed 
on a jutting rock overlooking the Rhine 
and the little village of Kapellen, and 
nearly opposite the confluence of the 
Lahn, 3 m. above Coblenz. Its pic- 
turesque outline and commanding posi- 
tion seem to justify its name of the 
Proud Bock, and render it one of the 
most imposing feudal castles on the 
Rhine. It is one of the numerous for- 
tresses built by the Archbishops of 
Treves, and was a favourite residence 
of several of those princely Prelates. 
The Princess Isabella, sister of Henry 
III. of England, and bride of the Emp. 
Frederick II., was lodged here with a 
splendid retinue in 1235. It was de- 
stroyed by the French in 1688, and 



had been abandoned to decay, until it 
was presented by the town of Coblenz 
to the present King of Prussia, while 
Crown Prince, by whom it has been 
restored. Unfortunately the repairs 
have been executed in very bad taste, 
recalling to mind the carpenter's Gothic 
of Strawberry Hill. A fine carriage 
road has been formed, partly by bridg- 
ing a ravine up to the castle, and is 
carried thence in zigzags to the top of 
the neighbouring bill. Pretty planta- 
tions and walks have been laid out 
around it. One apartment (the Ritter- 
saal) is painted by Stilhe with frescoes, 
representing the knightly virtues and 
accomplishments of Courage, Fidelity, 
Justice, Perseverance, Love, and Music, 
by scenes from history. 1. Courage : 
the death of the blind King John of 
Bohemia at the battle of Crecy, 27th 
Aug. 1346, after having fastened his 
horse to those of two knights. 2. 
Fidelity : Herman von Siebeneichen 
saves the Emp. Fred. Barbarossa, by 
exposing himself to the Guelph assas- 
sins, having compelled the Emperor to 
fly. 3. Love : the Empr. Fred. II. 
receives his bride Isabella Plantagenet, 
sister of Henry III. 4. Music : Philip 
of Swabia and his wife Irene sailing 
down the Rhine, surrounded by the 
most famous minstrels of their day. 
5. Justice : Rudolph of Habsburg re- 
establishes general peace. 6. Persever- 
ance : Godfrey of Bouillon hangs up his 
arms in the Church of the Holy Sepul- 
chre. On the window side are St. 
Gereon, St. George, St. Maurice, and St. 
Reinhold. In another room is an ar- 
moury, where are preserved the swords 
of Tilly, Bliicher, Napoleon, Murat, &c. 
The castle is often resorted to by the 
Coblenzers on account of its fine view. 
An hotel has been built at the foot of 
the rock, and donkeys swarm to convey 
the strangers up it. Not long ago 
Stolzenfels was offered for sale at 70 
dollars (11/.) without finding a pur- 
chaser. The King of Prussia received 
Queen Victoria here in 1845. 

Both banks of the Lahn and the rt. 
bank of the Rhine, nearly all the way 
hence to Mayence, belong to Nassau. 

(rt.) Below the mouth of the Lahn 
stands the Church of St. John, built 



Rlien. Prussia. R. 38. — rhine (d). rhense. braubach. 275 



about 1100, but reduced to a ruin 
through a lawsuit about the liability 
of the titheowner to repair it, which 
lasted 40 years. The choir is square 
outside, but curved within: the sa- 
cristy has elliptical vaulting : a tower is 
raised very boldly upon columns : the 
great tower is the oldest. Beyond it 
is the village of Nieder-Lahnstein, on 
the rt. bank of the Lahn. Here the 
Russians, under St. Priest, crossed the 
Rhine in 1814. Douquet's Inn, at 
Lahnstein, is a good dining place, and 
its small court-yard commands fine 
views. There is a ferry over the Rhine 
from Stolzenfels to Lahnstein, and an- 
other over the Lahn at its mouth, and 
a good carriage -road leads up its rt. 
bank to Ems. It is proposed to render 
the Lahn navigable up to Weilburg, a 
difficult scheme, but of vast importance 
to Nassau, by opening an outlet for 
the produce of its mines, and for that 
of the agriculture of Wetteravia and 
Upper Hesse. 

(rt.) Above the mouth of the Lahn, 
on the top of a rock, are the ruins of 
the Castle of Lahneck, which gave rise 
to Gothe's verses " Geister Gruss." 
Oberlahnstein, an old unaltered walled 
town, whose most conspicuous edifice 
is the red Castle of the Electors of 
Mayence, on the margin of the Rhine. 
Just without its walls a little white 
chapel is visible among the trees; it 
is memorable as the spot where the 
Electors met to pronounce the depo- 
sition of the weak and indolent Em- 
peror Wenceslaus, and to elect Rupert 
emperor in his stead (1400). 

(1.) Rhense (Inn, Zum Konigs- 
stuhl), one of the least altered towns 
on the Rhine ; its timber houses, few 
of which are newer than the 16th 
cent., and some even of the 14th cent., 
retain entirely the mediaeval ' German 
aspect. The road passes through it. 
A little below it is the Konigsstuhl 
(King's Seat), where the Electors used 
to meet to deliberate on affairs of the 
Empire. It is an open vaulted hall 
with 7 arches and 9 pillars, 1 being in 
the middle, and with 7 stone seats round 
the side for the 7 Electors. Here 
many treaties of peace were concluded, 
emperors dethroned and elected, and 



here the Emperor Maximilian appeared 
in person to take the oaths. It was 
allowed to go to ruin under the French 
government, and was pulled down 1807, 
but has been rebuilt in its original 
shape, and partly out of the old ma- 
terials (1843). This situation was 
selected from its vicinity to the ter- 
ritories of the 4 Rhenish Electors. 
The town of Rhense belonged to the 
Elector of Cologne, Lahnstein to Mainz, 
Capellen and Stolzenfels to Treves, 
and Braubach to the Palatinate. Thus 
each could repair to this spot, or retire 
from it into his own dominions, in a 
few minutes' time. 

(rt.) Braubach, a small town, with a 
Chateau, at the water-side (now turned 
into an Inn, zur Phillipsburg), stands 
at the foot of a high and almost conical 
rock, surmounted by the imposing 
Castle of Marksburg, an unaltered speci- 
men of a stronghold of the middle ages, 
and on this account deserving of a visit. 
It is sometimes used as a prison, and is 
garrisoned by a corps of invalids. It is 
indeed the beau-ideal of the old Ritter- 
schloss, with mysterious narrow pas- 
sages, winding stairs, vaults hewn in 
the living rock, which served in former 
days as dungeons ; among them the 
horrible pit called Hundloch (Doghole), 
into which prisoners were let down, as 
a bucket into a well, by a windlass ; and 
above all, a chamber of torture (Folter- 
kammer), whence the rack has been 
only lately removed. Here is shown 
the cell in which the Emp. Henry IV. 
was confined. A secret passage is said 
to pass down through the rock to a 
tower on the borders of the river. The 
view from the top of the Donjon keep 
(called Wimpcl) will please the lover 
of the picturesque. Braubach is about 
7 m. from Ems. A tolerable road 
connects the two places (Rte. 95) . Just 
out of the town, at the roadside, is a 
delicious spring of mineral water, re- 
sembling that of Selters. 

In order to visit Marksburg from the 
1. bank of the Rhine cross the river at 
Nierderspay, where there is a ferry to 
Braubach. 

(1.) Three small villages close toge- 
ther, called Mittelspay, Peterspay, and 
Oberspay, The Rhine here makes a 



276 



route 38. — the rhine (d). boppart. Sect. IV. 



very great bend, and does not recover 
its former direction till Boppart is passed, 
(rt.) 2 m. above Braubach, nearly- 
opposite Oberspay, is a mineral spring 
called Dinkholder Brunnen. 

(rt.) Above the little village of Os- 
terspay rises the Castle of Liebeneck, 
with white walls. 

(1.) Boppart* {Inns: Post; Bhein- 
ischer Hof, new ; Spiegel), a very an- 
cient walled town, with 3500 inhab. 
and dark narrow streets, no better than 
lanes. It was the Boman Baudobriga, 
and, like many other places upon the 
Rhine, it owed its origin to a castle 
built by Drusus, and the walls of this 
Castrum, an oblong square of Boman 
masonry, still exist in the heart of the 
town : the outer walls date from the 
middle ages. Boppart was made an 
Imperial city, and many Diets of the 
Empire were held in it. The Haupt- 
kirche, built about 1200, and distin- 
guished by its twin pointed spires 
united by a gallery like a bridge, "is 
remarkable for the various shapes of the 
arches in its front sides and semi-octa- 
gonal apsis ; some of the latter being 
pointed, but evidently of the same age 
with the round-headed : small gallery 
under the roof of the apsis : inside gal- 
leries [over the aisles, mannerchore] 
with small round-headed arches, sup- 
ported on twin columns, and enclosed 
in larger ones : wall-plates with arches, 
some round, some pointed, some in 
slips : a rosette in the pediment." — 
Hope. A remarkable door on the 1. of 
the apse, at the E. end, surmounted by 
3 concentric arches of peculiar arrange- 
ment, is well worth the architect's 
notice. — F. 8. The Carmeliterkirche 
contains a curious monument of the 
family von Elz, — rich specimens of 
sculpture of the 16th cent., but mu- 
tilated. Within the picturesque streets, 
the antiquary, architect, and artist will 
find much to interest them. The 
Bayerhaus present some peculiarities of 
architecture. It was the house of 
the family of Bayer von Boppart, the 
ally of Budolph of Habsburg in the 
destruction of the robber-nests on the 
Bhine. The Tempelhof preserves the 
recollection of the Knights Templars of 
* 3 Germ. m. Boppart, relay. 



Boppart, who first mounted the breach 
at the storming of Ptolemais in the 3rd 
Crusade. 

The large Convent of Marienburg, 
built 1738, behind Boppart, once a 
cotton-mill, afterwards a girls' school, 
is now converted into a medical board- 
ing-house for the Water-cure. The 
Muhlbad near the river is another es- 
tablishment of the same sort. 

Before reaching Salzig (1.), famed 
for its cherry orchards, the mountains 
recede somewhat from the banks of the 
river, and give place to corn-fields and 
meadows. 

(rt.) A little higher up than the vil- 
lage of Kamp, immediately above the 
ancient Convent of Bornhofen (where 
is a 2-aisled ch. exhibiting some bold 
construction) , and opposite Salzig, rise 
the mouldering towers of the t'xin 
castles of Sternberg and Liebensteia, 
crowning the double summit of a lofty 
rock, covered with vines. They go by 
the name of the Brothers, and are inte- 
resting from their pictures queness and 
the tale of their owners, two brothers, 
who, having fallen in love with the same 
fair maid, became foes, settled their 
rivalry by the sword, and fell by each 
other's hands. The castles belonged to 
the Electors of Treves. 

(rt.) Ehrenthal, where are silver, lead, 
and copper works, producing 100,000 
florins annually : a little above this is 
Wehnich, a small village at the foot of a 
mountain, surmounted by the ruined 
castle of Thumberg or Kunoberg, built 
by Kuno v. Falkenstein, the Archbp. 
of Treves (1363), called " the Mouse," 
in contrast to " the Cat," another castle 
above St. Goarshausen. The Mouse, 
however was generally the stronger of 
the two, so that the Cat trembled be- 
fore it. It is one of the most perfect 
castles on the Bhine; the wood- work 
alone is wanting ; the walls are entire. 
Fine view. 

(1.) Close above the town of St. Goar 
rises the vast Fortress of Bheinfels, the 
most extensive ruin on the Bhine. The 
original castle was built by a Count 
Diether of Katzenelnbogen (1245), as 
a stronghold where he could reside, and 
also exact toll, or, as we should say at 
present, levy transit duties, upon all 



Rheu. Prussia, route 38. — the rhine (d). st. goar. 



277 



merchandize passing up or down the 
Rhine. An attempt, however, on his 
part to increase these duties roused the 
indignation of his neighbours, and his 
castle was besieged in vain for 15 
months by the burghers of the adjacent 
towns. This unsuccessful attempt was 
productive of more important conse- 
quences ; it was one of the circum- 
stances which gave rise to the extensive 
confederacy of the German and Rhenish 
cities, to the number of 60, whose more 
numerous and formidable armies re- 
duced and dismantled not only the castle 
of Rheinfels, but also most of the other 
strongholds, or robber-nests, upon the 
Rhine. This event took place in the 
latter part of the 13th cent. The cas- 
tle afterwards came into the possession 
of the Landgrave of Hesse, who, at a 
very considerable expense, converted it 
into a modern fortress, with bastions and 
casemates. It was besieged in 1692 by 
an army of 24,000 French, under Mar- 
shal Tallard, who had promised the 
fortress as a new year's gift to his master, 
Louis XIV. ; but, through the brave 
defence of the Hessian general Gortz, 
was compelled to break his word and 
draw off his forces. His example was 
not followed in 1794, when, though its 
works had been greatly strengthened, it 
was basely abandoned by the Hessian 
garrison, without firing a shot, on the 
first appearance of the revolutionary 
French army, by whom it was blown 
up, and rendered useless. Below Rhein- 
fels lies the post-town of 

*(1.) St. Goar.— Inn, Zur Lilie (the 
Lily), good, but often over-crowded. 
St. Goar lies in the midst of the finest 
scenes of the Rhine ; it is, therefore, 
well placed for a day's halt. The views 
in its vicinity are among the most 
picturesque in the whole course of the 
river, and the rocks which hem it in 
are peculiarly wild and precipitous. 
The castle of Rheinfels, magnificent in 
appearance, and interesting from its 
history, rewards the trouble of the 
ascent by the view which it commands. 

Another very pleasing view is to be 
obtained from the summit of the heights 
above St. Goar, which rise immediately 






* I) Germ. m. St. Goar. 



in face of the Lurleiberg. The spot is 
approached by a footpath, leading out 
of the high road to Bingen, 100 yds. 
before you come to the Trumpeter's 
Grotto, by the side of the bed of a 
winter torrent ; the way is not difficult 
to find. Another agreeable expedition 
is to the Muhlenthal, between "Werlau 
and Karbach. 

The Protestant Ch., near the centre 
of the town, of pleasing architecture, 
stands over the crypt of the old Ch. of 
St. Goar (built 1465). In the Catholic 
Ch. of St. Goar is the rude image of 
that holy hermit, who in the 7th cent, 
settled here to preach Christianity to 
the rude inhabitants, and who after- 
wards gave his name to the town. It 
is recorded that once, to prove his sanc- 
tity, he hung up his cloak on a sunbeam, 
a miracle which was imitated by St. 
Elizabeth at Marburg, who hung out 
her washing to dry on a sunbeam. His 
shrine, after his death, in 647, became a 
place of pilgrimage, and is still famed 
for working miracles, and his help is 
supposed to have rescued many a poor 
boatman who prayed to him from the 
perils of the Gewirr (a whirlpool in this 
part of the river), and the enchant- 
ments of the Nymph of the Lurlei. 

(rt.) The Nassau bank of the Rhine 
hereabouts also affords pleasant excur- 
sions and points of view. Boats are 
always ready at St. Goar to transport 
visitors across the river to 

rt. Goarshaitsen (Inn, Adler — Aigle ; 
the steamers will set you down here). 
Here mules may be hired to explore 
the pretty Schweitzer Thai (Swiss 
Valley), traversed by a limpid stream 
descending in numberless small cascades 
between precipitous walls of rock, and 
turning many water-mills. At the en- 
trance of this valley, above the walled 
village of St. Goarshausen, rises the very 
picturesque Castle of the Cat (a contrac- 
tion of Katzenelnbogen, Cat's Elbow, 
the name of its original possessors). The 
view from it is not inferior to that from 
the 1. bank. Those who feel an ardour 
to climb still higher may reach the 
brow of the Lurlei, and gaze upon the 
Rhine from the brink of this lofty pre- 
cipice. 

Another agreeable excursion from 



278 route 38. — the rhine (d). lurlei. oberwesel. Sect. IV. 

Goarshausen will occupy a morning. 
Ascend the Forstbach, or Schweitzer- 
thal, to the ruined Castle of Beichenberg, 



one of the most interesting in the vi- 
cinity of the Rhine, built 1284, ruined 
in 1302, but shortly after restored by 
Baldwin of Treves in an Asiastic style, 
traces of which may be observed in the 
gateway. It was destroyed by Tilly in 
the 30 years' war. Return by the village 
of Patersberg, whence by far the finest 
view of the Rheinfels is to be obtained. 

(rt.) A short way above St. Goar, 
but on the rt. bank, rises abruptly from 
the water's edge the bare, black, and 
perpendicular precipice called the Lur- 
lei. (1.) At the side of the high 
road, opposite this colossal cliff, is a 
grotto occupied by a man whose em- 
ployment it is to awaken by pistol or 
bugle, for the gratification of travellers, 
the remarkable Echo of the Lurlei, 
which is said to repeat sounds 15 times. 
The aspect of the Lurlei from this 
point is very grand. The German stu- 
dents amuse themselves by asking the 
echo, " Who is the Burgomaster of 
Oberwesel?" Answer — " Esel " (the 
German for Ass) : a joke of which the 
burgomaster highly disapproves. There 
is a fishery of salmon in this part of 
the river. 

At the bend of the Rhine between 
St. Goar and the Lurlei rock is the 
whirlpool (Wirbel) called the Gewirr, 
and above it a rapid called the Bank, 
formed by the stream dashing over a 
number of sunken rocks, increased by 
the sudden bend which the river here 
makes. The passage of the large rafts 
which navigate the Rhine over this spot 
is difficult and dangerous ; the forepart 
is often dragged 5 or 6 feet under the 
surface, the crews plunged up to their 
necks in water, and men have been 
washed overboard by the tumultuous 
waves dashing over the slippery plank. 
The perils of tbis spot, taken in con- 
nection with the mysterious echo, no 
doubt gave birth to the superstition that 
the Lurlei was haunted by a beauteous 
but wicked nymph or Syren, who dis- 
tracted and beguiled the passing boat- 
man with her magical voice only to 
overwhelm and drown him in the waves 
of the whii-pool. Above this, in the 



middle of the river, and visible when 
the water is low, are the rocks called 
the 7 Sisters (see next page). 

1. Oberwesel. — Inns: Rheinischer 
Hof ; — Trierischer Hof ; — Goldener 
Pfropfenzieher (Golden Corkscrew — 
the sign painted by one of the Diis- 
seldorf artists, Schrodter). Oberwesel 
(the Vesalia of the Romans), a small 
town of 2300 inhab., one of the most 
charming spots on the Rhine, is highly 
picturesque from its lofty round tower 
(Ochsenthurrri) at the water- side, its 
many-turreted walls, and Gothic build- 
ings. Among the latter is the Ch. of 
our Lady (Liebfrauenkirche) , outside 
the town at its upper end, one of the 
most highly decorated as well as taste- 
ful examples of Gothic architecture 
upon the Rhine. It was consecrated in 
1331. Its porches are richly sculptured, 
and the vaulting of the cloisters is sin- 
gular. The rood-loft (Lettner) is a 
rich specimen of Gothic. The choir is 
80 ft. high. The altar-piece of carved 
wood, richly gilt, consisting of a series of 
niches, filled with the figures of prophets, 
patriarchs, and saints, is of the same 
age as the church, and is the perfection 
of elegance and delicacy. In a side 
chapel are many monuments of the 
Schomberg family, bearing rudely- 
carved effigies of knights in armour, 
ladies in stomachers and ruffs, and 
babies in swaddling clothes, like mum- 
mies or the larvae of insects. 

The older Ch. of St. Martin, with a 
large square tower and octagonal lan- 
tern, is also interesting from its ar- 
chitecture. In it is a Deposition from 
the Cross by Biepenbeck. 

In some period of the dark ages a 
boy named Werner is said to have been 
most impiously crucified and put to 
death by the Jews in this place. A 
similar story is told in many other 
parts of the world ; even in England, 
at Gloucester and Lincoln (vide Chau- 
cer). It is probable that the whole 
was a fabrication, to serve as a pretext 
for persecuting the Jews and extorting 
money from them. A little Chapel, 
erected to the memoiy of this Werner, 
stands upon the walls of the town, close 
to the Rhine. 

(1.) Schonberg. This ruined castle 



Bhen. Prussia. it. 38. — the rhine (d). gutenfels. pfalz. 279 



on the rock was the cradle of an illus- 
trious family of the same name. The 
English Schombergs are a branch of it, 
and the hero of the Boyne, Marshal 
Schomberg, sprang from the same 
stock. It receives its name (Beautiful 
Hill), as the story goes, from 7 beau- 
teous daughters of the house, who by 
their charms turned the heads of half 
the young knights far and near ; but 
were, at the same time, so hard-hearted 
that they would listen to the suits of 
none of them, and were therefore 
changed into 7 rocks, which are seen 
even to this day projecting out of the 
bed of the Rhine below Oberwesel, when 
the water is low. 

(rt.) Gutenfels, a ruined castle above 
the town of Caub, traditionally (?) said 
to be named after a fair lady called 
Guda, who was beloved of Richard of 
Cornwall, Empr. of Germany, and bro- 
ther of our Henry III. In the 30 
years' war Gustavus Adolphus directed 
an attack upon the Spaniards, posted 
on the opposite bank, from its battle- 
ments, but, after 6 days of unceasing 
hostilities, was unable to effect a pas- 
sage in the face of the wary General 
Spinola. The castle remained in habi- 
table condition down to 1807, when, 
owing to the expense of keeping it up, 
the roofs and wood- work were sold by 
auction, and the building converted 
into a ruin. 

(rt.) Caub (Jnns ; Nassauer Hof ; 
Griinewald) has slate-quarries under- 
ground, and is principally remarkable 
as the spot where Blucher's army crossed 
the Rhine on New Year's Night, 1814. 
It was from the heights above that the 
view of the Rhine first burst upon the 
Prussians, and drew forth one simul- 
taneous and exulting cry of triumph. 
" To the Germans of every age this 
great river has been the object of an 
affection and reverence scarcely inferior 
to that with which an Egyptian con- 
templates the Nile, or the Indian his 
Ganges. When these brave bands, 
having achieved the rescue of their 
native soil, came in sight of this its 
ancient landmark, the burden of a 
hundred songs, they knelt and shouted 
The Shine ! the Rhine I as with the heart 
and voice of one man. They that were 



behind rushed on, hearing the cry, in 
expectation of another battle." — /. G.L. 

A toll is here paid, by all vessels na- 
vigating the Rhine, to the Duke of 
Nassau, the only chieftain remaining 
on the river who stiR exercises this 
feudal previlege. In the middle ages 
no less than 32 different tolls were es- 
tablished on the Rhine. 

In the middle of the river, opposite 
Caub, rises the quaint castle called the 
Pfalz, built by the Empr. Lewis 
the Bavarian, previous to 1326, as a 
convenient toU-house ; it now belongs 
to the Duke of Nassau. To this little 
island Louis le Debonnaire retired to die, 
worn out with the cares of empire, 840, 
" desiring that a thatched lodge or leafy 
hut, such as had served him while hunt- 
ing in the forest, should be prepared." 
Here, " lying on his couch, lulled by 
the soothing music of the gurgling 
waters," he breathed his last.* — 8. Ac- 
cording to a popular tradition the 
Pfalz served in former times as a place 
of refuge and security whither the 
Countesses Palatine repaired previous 
to their accouchements, which, were it 
true, would be a proof of the insecure 
life led by princes as well as peasants 
in the turbulent times of the middle 
ages. Such an occurence may have 
actuaUy taken place in a single instance, 
but it is very unlikely that a rude toU- 
house should repeatedly have served as 
a princely abode. There are dungeons 
under it below the level of the river, in 
which state-prisoners of rank were once 
confined. The castle is accessible by 
means of a ladder, and the only entrance 
is closed by a portcullis (FaUthur). The 
weU which supplies it with water is 
filled from a source far deeper than the 
bed of the Rhine. 

f(l.) Bacharach {Inn, Post) is en- 
circled by antique waUs, and defended 
by 12 towers, of strength in former days, 
of picturesque and ornamental appear- 
ance in the present. They are singular 
in their construction, having only 3 
walls, the side towards the town being 

* See Palgrave's eloquent History of Nor- 
mandy, 1851 — a work abounding with interest- 
ing local anecdotes collected by the author on 
his travels. 

f If Germ. m. Eaeharach. 



280 ROUTE 38. — THE RHINE (d). bacharach. lorch. Sect. IV 



open, probably to prevent their com- 
manding the town in the event of an 
enemy gaining possession of them. The 
name, Bacharach, is only a slight al- 
teration of the words Bacchi ara, the 
altar of Bacchus ; a name conferred 
upon a rock in the bed of the river, ad- 
joining the island a little below the 
town, usually covered with water, but 
in very dry seasons appearing above the 
surface. The sight of it is hailed with 
joy by the owner of the vineyard, who 
regards this as a sure sign of a fine 
vintage. As a proof of the goodness 
of the wine of this neighbourhood, we 
are told that Pope Pius II. (JEneas 
Silvius) used to import a tun of it to 
Rome every year ; and that the city of 
Nuremberg obtained its freedom in 
return for 4 casks of it, which her 
citizens presented annually to the 
Empr. "Wenzel. Down to the 16th 
cent. Bacharach was, jointly with Co- 
logne, the staple place for the wines of 
the Rhine. 

(1.) The trimcated walls of the old 
castle of Stahleck, till 1253 the seat of 
the Electors Palatine, now the pro- 
perty of the Queen of Prussia, their de- 
scendant, crown the high hill behind 
Bacharach. Between them and the 
town stand the ruins of St. Werner's 
Ch., ah exquisite fragment of the florid 
Gothic style, built of hard red sand- 
stone in 1428. "It was demolished by 
the Swedes in the Thirty Years' War, 
but still shows in its E. end a lantern, 
rising on a rock suspended over the 
river, lake a fairy fabric, the remains of 
the highest and most elegant lancet 
style existing." — Hope. The lofty 
pointed windows still retain in a per- 
fect condition the most delicate tracery 
work. 

The body of the child Werner, having 
been thrown by the Jews, bis mur- 
derers, into the Rhine at Oberwesel (see 
p. 278), instead of descending with the 
current, as all other bodies would have 
done, is reported to have ascended the 
stream as far as Bacharach, where it was 
taken up, interred, and afterwards ca- 
nonized. To do honour to his relics, this 
beautiful chapel was built over them. 

An hour or two should be devoted 
by every traveller to Bacharach, to 



enable him to enjoy the view from the 
castle of Stahleck, and to visit St. 
"Werner's chapel, and St. Peter's Ch., 
just below St. "Werner's, and close to 
the road. It was " formerly a Templar 
ch., and one of the most curious, 
and perhaps the earliest example of 
mixed Bound and Gothic style on the 
Bhine, resembling the churches of Lim- 
burg and Neuss. It deserves to be 
drawn in detail before it goes to utter 
ruin."— .P. S. 

(rt.) Lorchhausen. Two stone gal- 
lows near this formerly marked the 
boundary line which divided the an- 
cient territory of Mainz from the Pa- 
latinate. A little higher up the river 
is the ruined castle of Nollingen. 

(1.) The round Keep-tower and 
shattered walls of Fiirstenburg rise 
above the village of Rheindiebaeh. The 
castle was reduced to a ruin by the 
French in the war of the Orleans suc- 
cession, 1689. 

(rt.) Lorch (Inn, Schwan) is one of 
the oldest towns on the Rhine (Lau- 
reacum ?), and is situated at the mouth 
of the picuresque valley of the Wis- 
per, on the rt. bank of which rises the 
rocky height called the Devil's Ladder, 
whose top is occupied by the ruins 
of the castle of Nollingen. It was an- 
ciently inhabited by a knot of noble 
(knightly) families, many of whose 
castellated mansions remain. Among 
them is the Hurghaus of John Hilgen 
of Lorch, a contemporary of Franz 
of Sickengen, who fought against the 
Turks, date (1548). He is buried in 
the Ch., a handsome edifice of the 
12th Cent, (with more recent addi- 
tions), containing an elaborate altar- 
piece of carved wood. Before the 
ch. stands a carved stone cross 
(date 1491). 

Here commences the district called 
the Rhcingau (district of the Rhine), 
which extends upwards along the rt. 
bank as far as "Walluf, and is remark- 
able as including all the most famous 
vineyards in which the best Rhenish 
wines are produced. 

1. The ruins of the castle of Heim- 
burg appear above the top of the hoiiscs 
of Nieder-Heimbach village, close on 
the shore. Higher up is the very pie- 



Ehen. Prussia, route 38. — the rhine (d). castles. 



281 



turesque turreted ruin, of Sonneck; it 
was originally a robber-castle, and de- 
stroyed as such by the Emperor Ru- 
dolph, 1282. It is now restored. 

The river, on approaching Bingen 
and Assmanshausen, is truly " the cas- 
tellated Rhine." 1. The castle of 
Reichenstein or Falkenburg stands on 
the summit of a rocky spur of the hill, 
and a little farther up on the same 
bank is that of Rheinstein, on a pro- 
jecting crag which rises almost perpen- 
dicularly from the bank of the river. 
Not far beyond Falkenburg, and be- 
tween the high road and the river, is the 
interesting Gothic Ch. of St. Clement, 
admirably restored from a state of ruin 
by the Prince Frederick of Prussia. 
Most of these residences of knightly 
highwaymen fell before the strong arm 
of the law in 1282, having been con- 
demned as robber strongholds. The 
forces of the League of the Rhine exe- 
cuted the sentence of the Diet of the 
Empire by storming and demolishing 
them, and thus put an end to the 
arbitrary exactions and predatory war- 
fare of their owners. 

The system of pillage which pre- 
vailed throughout Germany among the 
rulers of these almost inaccessible for- 
tresses, until the vigorous opposition of 
the towns on the borders of the Rhine 
put an end to it, is well illustrated by 
the following anecdote. An archbishop 
of Cologne, having built a castle, ap- 
pointed a seneschal to the command of 
it. The governor, previous to entering 
upon his office, applied to the bishop 
to know how and whence he was to 
maintain himself, no revenue having 
been assigned to him for that purpose. 
The prelate, by way of answer, merely 
desired him to observe that his castle 
stood close to the junction of 4 roads. 
A practice very similar to the arbitrary 
mode of levying tolls and custom duties 
adopted by these feudal tyrants pre- 
vailed up to the last century in our own 
country, in the black-mail exacted by 
the Highland chiefs and nobles from 
merchants on their way to and from the 
fairs or markets of the north. 

1. The Castle of Rheinstein, one of 
these ruins, has been restored as far as 
possible to its original condition, but 



only to serve the peaceful purpose of a 
summer residence for Prince Frederick 
of Prussia, cousin to the present King. 
The interior has been fitted up in imi- 
tation of a knightly dwelling of the 
days of chivalry ; the walls hung with 
armour, the windows filled with painted 
glass, and the furniture either collected 
from ancient castles or convents, or 
made conformably to the fashions of 
former days. It is liberally shown to 
strangers, who are conducted round 
the castle by a domestic, who bears the 
ancient title of Schlossvogt. At the 
narrow pass below Rheinstein, which 
even now, after having been widened 
by French and Prussian engineers, 
leaves barely room for the road between 
the rock and the river, there existed 
till very recent times a Jew's Toll, 
where certain fixed dues were levied 
upon all the Hebrews who passed. It 
is said that the contractors kept little 
dogs, who were trained to single out 
and seize the Jews from among the 
passing crowds ! 

Wines and Vineyards of the Rhine. 

Opposite to Rheinstein is the village 
(rt.) of Assmannshausen {Inn, Hotel 
de l'Ancre), which has a warm mineral 
spring, and. is about to be added to 
the number of the Brunnen of Nassau 
by the construction of baths and ho- 
tels : it gives its name to a red wine 
of high reputation and price. The hills 
behind and around the hamlet which 
produce it are so very steep that it is 
only by artificial means, often by plant- 
ing the vines in baskets, that any soil 
can be retained around their roots. The 
vineyards are nothing more than a 
succession of terraces or steps, extend- 
ing from the top to the bottom of the 
hills, some of which must be nearly 
1000 ft. high. In some places more 
than 20 terraces may be counted, rising 
one above the other. They are sup- 
ported by walls of masonry from 5 to 
10 ft. high, and the breadth of some of 
the ledges on which the vines grow is 
not more than twice the height of the 
walls. To reach many of these narrow 
plots, the vine -dressers, female as well 
as male, must scale the precipices, and 
hang as it were from the face of the 



282 



ROUTE 38. THE RHINE (d). RHINE WINES. Sect. IV. 



rocks, while a great deal of the soil 
itself and every particle of manure 
must he carried up on their shoulders. 
This will give some idea of the labours 
and expense of such cultivation, and 
of the great value of every inch of 
ground in these narrow strips to re- 
pay it. 

The life of the Rheinland vine- 
dresser indeed presents a rare example 
of industry and perseverance. Though 
by no means rich, they are generally 
the proprietors of the vineyards which 
they cultivate ; and though their ap- 
pearance does not altogether verify that 
which painters draw and poets describe, 
they at least exhibit an aspect of cheer- 
fulness and intelligence. 

Independently of the hardness of the 
labour of cultivating the vine, which 
is not confined to any one season, 
but must be carried on perseveringly 
through the whole year, and is most 
severe during the heat of summer, the 
vine is a delicate plant, — frost, rain, or 
hail may in a few hours annihilate the 
produce upon which the cultivator de- 
pends solely for subsistence. One or 
two successive seasons of failure will 
ruin even an opulent family ; but when 
the vintage is good, few of the small 
proprietors are rich enough to be able 
to wait until they can obtain a favour- 
able market, but must part with the 
wine soon after it is made to the rich 
speculators, who buy up the whole pro- 
duce of a district, and take the chance 
of its turning out good or bad. 

Beyond the point on which Ass- 
manshausen stands, the Rhine, whose 
course has hitherto been from S.E. 
to N.W., changes materially its di- 
rection, and flows from E. to "W., 
pursuing this direction from Mayence 
hither. 

From the advantageous exposure 
produced by this bend in the river 
arises the excellence of the wines of 
the district of the Bheingau, as the 
rays of the midday sun, instead of 
being received obliquely, fall full butt 
upon the vineyards situated on the rt. 
bank of the river, and all the best wines 
are confined to that side. The slaty 
soil of the hills seems peculiarly fa- 
vourable for retaining the intense heat 



of the sun's rays, so necessary for bring- 
ing the grape to perfect maturity ; and, 
in addition, this favoured portion of 
the valley of the Rhine is sheltered 
from JS\ and E. winds to a great ex- 
tent by the intervening barrier of 
mountains. 

The Rheingau is divided into the 
Upper and Lower Cantons (Gemar- 
kung), relatively to the position of the 
vineyards near the summits of the hills, 
or on the margin of the river : the 
high grounds produce the strongest 
wine, while that of the lower ground 
has an earthy taste ; that which grows 
at a moderate height between the two 
extremes is considered the most whole- 
some and the best ; though much de- 
pends on the season, which is some- 
times favourable to the produce of the 
heights, sometimes to that of the in- 
ferior slopes. 

Among the Rhine wines (improperly 
called Hock in England), the Johan- 
nisberg and Steinberg rank first, and on 
an equal footing, for their exquisite 
flavour and evanescent bouquet. Next 
follow Riidesheim (Berg), Markobrun- 
ner, and Rotherberg, which possess 
much body and aroma. Hochheim 
(which grows on the banks of the 
Maine, not in the Rheingau) ranks 
with the best of these second-class 
wines. Of the inferior wines, those of 
Erbach and Hattenheim are the best. 
The lighter wines, however, are apt to 
be hard and rather acid, as table wines. 
The Laubenheim and Nierstein, from 
the Palatinate above Mayence, and the 
delicately-flavoured Moselles, are much 
preferred to them as table wines in 
Germany. The best red Rhine wine 
is the Assmannshausen, produced from 
vines originally brought from Bur- 
gundy. The vine chiefly cultivated 
on the Rhine is called Riesling ; it 
yields a wine of fine flavour ; the Or- 
leans grape produces a strong-bodied 
wine. 

The vintage on the Rhine used to 
take place in the middle of October ; 
but, by the present system, it is de- 
layed, in the best vineyards, till No- 
vember : in fact, it is put off to the 
last moment the grapes "will hang on the 
bunches. To make the best wines, 



JRhen. Prussia. R. 38. — the rhlne (d). bingen loch. 



283 



the grapes are sorted, and those only 
of the best quality employed. The 
riper hunches are first selected, and 
the rest left to hang for days or weeks 
longer. 

The culture of the vine was intro- 
duced on the Rhine and Moselle by the 
Emperor Probus. 

The Rossel (rt.), a little tower stand- 
ing on the brink of the heights above 
Assmannshausen, and just discernible 
from the river below, is situated within 
the verge of the Forest of Niederwald, 
and commands one of the most magni- 
ficent views upon the whole course of 
the Rhine. Assmannshausen is a good 
point from which to commence the as- 
cent of the Niederwald, though Bingen 
or Riidesheim, where the inns are bet- 
ter, should be made the head-quarters. 

We have now reached the upper 
limit of the gorge of the Rhine, com- 
mencing near Boppart, and affording 
so much grand scenery. Between Bin- 
gen and Boppart the Rhine cuts across 
a chain of mountains running nearly 
at right angles to the course of its 
stream. There are good grounds for 
supposing that at one time (before hu- 
man record) this range entirely stopped 
its further progress, damming up the 
waters behind them into a lake which 
extended as far as Basle, and whose 
existence is further proved by numerous 
freshwater deposits, shells, &c, to be 
found in the valley of the Rhine, above 
Mayence. Some vast convulsions, such 
as an earthquake, or perhaps even the 
force of the accumulated waters alone, 
must have burst through this moun- 
tain-wall, and made for the river the 
gorge or ravine by which it now obtains 
a free passage to the ocean. 

A species of dyke or wall of rock, 
running obliquely across the river at 
this spot, is perhaps a remnant of this 
colossal barrier. It is passable for ves- 
sels only at one spot, where a channel 
called Bingen Loch (Hole of Bingen) 
has been cut through it by artificial 
means. The impediments occasioned 
by it in the navigation of the river have 
been reduced from time to time : but 
the greatest improvement was effected 
in 1830-32, by the Prussian govern- 



ment, under whose direction the passage 
has been widened from 20 to 210 ft. 
by blasting the sunken rocks in the 
bed of the Rhine. 

1. In commemoration of this im- 
provement, a small monument has been 
set up by the road-side ; the pedestal 
of the obelisk is formed of the stones 
extracted from the bed of the river. 

rt. This navigable channel, 3 ft. 
deep, lies near the rt. bank, under the 
shattered walls of the castle of Ehren- 
fels, an ancient stronghold of the Arch- 
bishops of Mayence, built in 1210, to 
which they retired with their treasures 
in time of war and peril. It was 
stormed by Bernard of Saxe Weimar 
in the 30 years' war, but was destroyed 
by the French, 1689. 

Sometimes when the river is low in 
autumn, a strong team of horses stands 
ready on the rt. bank to assist in drag- 
ging the steamer up the rapid by the 
aid of a tow-rope. 

Near to the 1. bank, surrounded by 
the river, and not far from the spot 
where the waters of the Nahe unite 
with those of the Rhine, rises the little 
square Mouse Tower, renowned for 

The Tradition of Bishop Hatto. 

The summer and autumn had been so wet, 
That in winter the corn was growing yet ; 
'T was a piteous sight to see all around 
The grain lie rotting on the ground. 

Every day the starving poor 
Crowded around Bishop Hatto's door, 
For he had a plentiful last year's store ; 
And all the neighbourhood could tell 
His granaries were furnish'd well. 

At last Bishop Hatto appointed a day 
To quiet the poor without delay : 
He iiade them to his great barn repair, 
And they should have food for the winter 
there. 

Rejoic'd at such tidings good to hear, 
The poor folk flock'd from far and near ; 
The great barn was full as it could hold 
Of women and children, and young and old. 

Then when he saw it could hold no more, 
Bishop Hatto he made fast the door ; 
And while for mercy on Christ they call, 
He set fire to the barn, and burnt them all. 

" I' faith 'tis an excellent bonfire !" quoth he, 
" Andtlie country is greatly oblig'd to me, 
For ridding it, in these times forlorn, 
Of rats that only consume the corn." 



284 



ROUrE 38. THE RHIN T E (d). BINGES. 



Sect. IV. 



So then to his palace returned lie, 

And he sat down to supper merrily, 

And he slept that night like an innocent man ; 

But Bishop Hatto never slept again. 

In the morning, as he enter'd the hall 
Where his picture hung against the wall, 
A sweat like death all o'er him came, 
For the rats had eaten it out of the frame. 

As he look'd there came a man from his farm ; 
He had a countenance white with alarm. 
" My Lord, I open'd your granaries this morn, 
And the rats had eaten all your corn." 

Another came running presently, 

And he was pale as pale could be : 

" Fly ! my lord bishop, fly," quoth he ; 

" Ten thousand rats are coming this way ; 

The Lord forgive you for yesterday 1" 

" I'll go to my tower on the Rhine," replied 

he, 
" 'Tis the safest place in Germany ; 
The walls are high, and the shores are steep, 
And the stream is strong, and the water 

deep !" 

Bishop Hatto fearfully hasten'd away, 
And he cross'd the Rhine without delay, 
And reach 'd his tower, and barr'd with care 
All the windows, doors, and loopholes there. 

He laid him down, and clos'd his eyes ; 
But soon a scream made him arise. 
He started, and saw two eyes of flame 
On frs pillow, from whence the screaming 
came. 

He listen'd and look'd : it was only the cat : 
But the bishop he grew more fearful for that ; 
For she sat screaming, mad with fear 
At the army of rats that were drawing near. 

For they have swum over the river so deep, 
And they have climb'dthe shores so steep, 
And now by thousands up they crawl 
To the holes and windows in the wall. 

Down on his knees the bishop fell, 

And faster and faster his beads did he tell, 

As louder and louder, drawing near, 

The saw of their teeth without he could hear. 

And in at the windows, and in at the door, 
And through the walls by thousands they pour, 
And down through the ceiling and up through 

the floor, 
From the right and the left, from behind and 

before, 
From within and without, from above and 

below ; 
And all at once to the bishop they go. 

They have whetted their teeth against the 

stones, 
And now they pick the bishop's bones ; 
They gnaw'd the flesh from every limb, 
For they were sent to do judgment on him. 

Southey. 

Having given the romantic tradition, 
it is proper to add the prosaic history 
of the little tower. It appears to have 
been built in the 13th cent, by a Bishop 



Siegfried (full 200 years after the death 
of Bishop Hatto), along with the oppo- 
site castle of Ehrenfels, as a wateh- 
tower and toll-house for collecting the 
duties upon all goods which passed the 
spot. The word rnaus is probably only 
an older form of mauth, duty or toll : and 
this name, together with the very un- 
popular object for which the tower was 
erected, perhaps gave rise to the do- 
lorous story of Bishop Hatto and the 
rats. The tale, too, may have been 
fixed on Bp. Hatto (originally Abbot 
of Fulda), because, though one of 
the most distinguished statesmen of 
his time, and the constant friend and 
councillor of the Empr. Otho the 
Great, he must have been remembered 
for his cruel perfidy. (See Hdbk. S. 
Germany, Route 170.) He died 970. 

1. The confluence of the Nahe and 
the Rhine. — Tacitus mentions the 
bridge of Drusus over the Nahe : the 
existing structure, erected 1011, and 
many times renewed, perhaps rests on 
Roman foundations. The JSTahe di- 
vides the territory of Prussia from that 
of Hesse-Darmstadt. The pedestrian 
may save at least a mile by crossing the 
Nahe by the ferry, instead of going- 
round by the bridge. 

2. 1. Bingen. — Inns : Victoria, close 
to the Rhine, good and reasonable ; — 
Post, not so well situated, but good in 
other respects;— Weisses Ross (White 
Horse), facing the river; old Rhine- 
wine in the cellar. The very interest- 
ing scenery in this neighbourhood is 
entirely lost to those who merely pass 
up and down the river in a steamboat. 

Bingen has 5000 inhab., and con- 
siderable trade in wine. It was raised 
to great prosperity in the 14th cent, by 
certain Italian families of merchants, 
from Asti : the Ottini, Montesia, Brog- 
lio, Pomario, &c, who settled here. In 
the town itself there is not much to 
be seen. The ruin called Klopp, or 
Drusus' Castle, above it, though not 
itself Roman, probably occupies the 
site of one of the forts built by Drusus. 
The ruins, now enclosed within a pri- 
vate garden, command a very interest- 
ing view. 

From Bingen the traveller may ex- 
plore the Rochusberg, Rheinstein, and 



Rhen. Prussia, r. 38. — the rhine (d). niederwald. 



285 



the Niederwald, in one day. A very 
pleasant excursion may be made up 
the Naho to Kreuznach and Oberstein 
(Etc. 100). Eilvcagen and omnibus 
(12 S. gr.) to Kreuznach twice a day in 
2 hrs. : a coach thither and back, with 

2 horses, costs 7 fl. ; 5 fl. with 1. 

1. The white Chapel of St. Roch 
(Rochus Capelle) occupies the summit 
of the hill above Bingen, opposite 
Riidesheim. The ascent to it takes 
half an hour — it may be made in a 
light carriage. There is a pleasant 
walk from Bingen, at first along the 
new road on 1. bank of Nahe, and 
through woods whose shade is highly 
refreshing to one ascending a stiff hill 
on a hot day, to the summit of a knoll 
called Scharlachkopf, which commands 
an interesting view of the valley and 
windings of the lovely Nahe ; the ho- 
rizon is bounded by the Hundsriick 
mountains and the Mont Tonnerre 
(Donnersberg), while immediately under 
the spectator lie the bridge and town of 
Bingen. The slopes at the back of the 
hill have nearly the same exposure as 
the vineyards of the Rheingau, and 
produce a wine, the Scharlachberger, 
not much inferior to them. The chapel 
of St. Roch is easily reached from the 
Kopf. The terrace behind the chapel 
almost overhangs the Rhine and com- 
mands a prospect not only up, but down 
the river. The 16th of August is St. 
Roch's day, when many thousand pil- 
grims assemble from all parts to pay 
their vows and offer their prayers to 
the saint, who is regarded as the averter 
of plague and pestilence. Gbthe has 
written a very pleasing description of 
one of these festivals. He presented to 
the chapel the altar-piece which deco- 
rates its interior. You may descend by 
a different road, overlooking the Rhine. 
l£ hour will suffice for this walk, 
which, instead of a single view, pre- 
sents a complete panorama of the sur- 
rounding country. 

The favourite excursion, however, 
from Bingen is to the heights above 
Riidesheim and Assmannshausen, called 
the Niederwald, which may be made in 

3 or 4 hours, but which well deserves 
to have half a day devoted to it. The 
following plan of the excursion, having 



been already tried, may be considered 
worth adopting by others. 

Take a boat from Bingen, and de- 
scend the Rhine in 20 min. to the 
castle of Rheinstein (p. 281). If you 
go on foot you will save a mile by 
crossing the Nahe at the ferry under 
the church, instead of going round by 
the stone bridge. After seeing the 
castle, cross the Rhine to Assmanns- 
hausen. This wine-producing village 
supports a troop of donkeys for the 
express purpose of transporting visitors 
to the top of the heights of the Nieder- 
wald. The charge for a donkey to 
Riidesheim is 1 fl. 15 kr. Those who 
prefer walking may experience some 
difficulty in finding their way among 
the numerous paths through the woods 
without a guide. 

After ascending the gully behind the 
village for about a mile, as far up as 
the vine grows, a path will be found to 
the right, which leads to the Jagd- 
Schloss, hunting seat of the Count 
Bassenheim, the proprietor of the 
Niederwald, where refreshments may 
be had. This may be reached in f hr. 
from Assmanshausen ; 1 min. more 
will bring you to the Bezauberte Hohle 
(magic cave). Whithin the space of a 
few feet, three vistas, cut through the 
trees, disclose three beautiful land- 
scapes of the Rhine, each different from 
the other, and having all the effect of a 
diorama. 

At no great distance from the cave 
is the Rossel, an artificial ruin, perched 
on the very verge of the precipice, 
which at a great height overlooks the 
black pools and turbulent eddies of the 
Bingerloch. The ruin of Ehrenfels 
appears half way down, hanging as it 
were to the face of the rock. The 
view is not surpassed by any in the 
whole course of the Rhine. " One of 
the most remarkable features in it is the 
distinction in the stream of the river 
below of the waters of the Rhine in the 
centre (clear green), the Nahe, near the 
1. bank (dirty brown), and the Maine, 
near the rt. bank (dirty red). The 
Maine joins the Rhine about 20 m. 
above Bingen, yet the three rivers do 
not mix, it is said, until they reach the 
deep pool of the Lurlei."— P. From 



286 



ROUTE 38. — RHINE (d). RUDESHEIM. 



Sect. IV. 



this point the path again dives into the 
wood, and at the end of about a mile 
emerges at 

rt. The Temple, a circular building 
supported on pillars, planted on the 
brow of the hill, which commands 
another and quite different prospect, 
extending up the Ehine and across to the 
hills of the Bergstrasse and Odenwald. 
The author of Pelham calls this " one of 
the noblest landscapes on earth." 

The agreeable shade of the beech 
and oak trees composing the forest of 
the Niederwald completely excludes the 
sun, and renders this excursion doubly 
pleasant in summer time. 

To descend to Rudesheim from the 
Temple will not take more than half 
an hour by the path leading through 
the vineyards which produce the fa- 
mous Rudesheim wine. Late in the 
autumn, when the grapes begin to 
ripen, the direct path is closed up, and 
a slight detour of an additional quarter 
of an hour must be made. 

ASCENT OF THE RHINE CONTINUED. 

rt. Rudesheim. Inns: Darmstadter 
Hof ; Krone ; Rheinstein. 

The excursion to the Niederwald, 
which is not more than a mile distant, 
may be made from hence quite as well 
as from Assmannshausen. The traveller 
will generally find donkeys or mules 
ready saddled to convey him. Paths 
strike off from the Temple rt. to the 
Jagd Schloss, and 1. to the Eossel. 

At the upper end of the town rises a 
picturesque round tower, and at the 
lower extremity, close to the water's 
edge, stands the Bromserburg, a singu- 
lar massive quadrangular castle of the 
year 1100, consisting of three vaulted 
stories, supported on walls varying be- 
tween 8 and 14 ft. in thickness. Though 
a ruin, it is carefully preserved from 
further decay, and several rooms have 
been neatly fitted up in it by its present 
owner, Count Ingelheim. The tall 
square tower adjoining it is called 
Boosenburg. Another castle, the Brom- 
serhof, near the middle of the town, 
was the family residence of the knightly 
race of Bromser, long since extinct. 
" Tradition says that one of these 
knights, Bromser of Rudesheim, on 



repairing to Palestine, signalised him- 
self by destroying a dragon, which was 
the terror of the Christian army. No 
sooner had he accomplished it than he 
was taken prisoner by the Saracens ; 
and while languishing in captivity he 
made a vow, that, if ever he returned to 
his castle of Rudesheim, he would de- 
vote his only daughter Gisela to the 
church. He arrived at length, a pil- 
grim, at his castle, and was met by his 
daughter, now grown into a lovely 
woman. Gisela loved, and was beloved 
by, a young knight from a neighbouring 
castle ; and she heard with consterna- 
tion her father's vow. Her tears and 
entreaties could not change his pur- 
pose. He threatened her with his 
curse if she did not obey : and, in the 
midst of a violent storm, she precipi- 
tated herself from the tower of the 
castle into the Rhine below. A fisher- 
man found her corpse the next day in 
the river by the tower of Hatto : and 
the boatmen and vintagers at this day 
fancy they sometimes see the pale form of 
Gisela hovering about the ruined tower, 
and hear her voice mingling its lamenta- 
tions with the moiunful whistlings of 
the wind." — Autumn near the Rhine. 

The Bromserhof is now turned into 
common dwelling-houses, and the anti- 
quities it contained are partly removed 
to Johannisberg. They consisted of old 
furniture, family pictures, &c, together 
with the chain which bound the knight 
Johann Bromser while a prisoner in 
Palestine. 

The best quality of the famed Rudes- 
heim Wine grows upon the terraces over- 
hanging the Rhine, close to Ehrenfels. 
There is a tradition that Charlemagne, 
remarking from his residence at Ingel- 
heim that the snow disappeared sooner 
from these heights than elsewhere, and 
perceiving how favourable such a situa- 
tion would prove for vineyards, ordered 
vines to be brought hither from Bur- 
gundy and Orleans. The grapes are 
stilled called Orleans. Close behind the 
houses of Riidesheim grows a very good 
wine, called, from the position of the 
vineyard, Hinterhauser. 

There is a ferry over the Rhine be- 
tween Kempten and Rudesheim. Car- 
riages may be hired here to proceed on 



Rhen. Prussia, r. 38. — rhine (d). geisenheim. johannisberg. 287 



to Mainz or Wiesbaden, as well as job- 
horses. There are no post-horses be- 
tween Budesheim and Mayence on the 
rt. bank of the Rhine. Diligences daily 
from Eiidesheim to Wiesbaden. A 
Railway is projected. 

The shortest road, which is also the 
post-road, from Bingen to Mayence is 
by Ingelheim (Bte. 98), keeping on the 
1. side of the Bhine. Those who wish 
to visit the Brunnen of Nassau on their 
way cross over by the ferry above Bin- 
gen to Eiidesheim and take the more 
interesting road along the rt. bank of the 
Bhine. They should stop at Eiides- 
heim to see the Niederwald (if they 
have not visited it before) ; at Johannis- 
berg to see the chateau and vineyard ; 
at Hattenheirn (where they may dine) 
to see the old convent of Eberbach, 2 
m. out of the road : and they had better 
stipulate with the driver, before setting 
out, to make these halts. If they are 
bound to Schlangenbad (Bte. 95), they 
may turn to the 1., away from the 
Rhine, at Walluf ; if they are going to 
Wiesbaden they proceed on to Bieberich 
before they quit it ; and if they wish to 
reach Castel and Mayence they continue 
by its side. The distance from Eiides- 
heim to Castel (opposite Mayence) is 
about 14 m. There is a schnellpost daily 
to Wiesbaden, but no post-horses. 

Above the Niederwald and the Eo- 
chusberg the mountains subside into 
gentle slopes, and the taller ridges of 
Taunus recede to a distance from the 
river. Although the succeeding dis- 
trict appears tame in comparison with 
that already passed, when viewed from 
the river, yet, when seen from any of 
the heights which command the Bhein- 
gau, it will be found to possess beauties 
of a softer kind, combined with a rich- 
ness and cheerfulness which are well 
calculated to draw forth admiration. 

(rt.) Geisenheim (Inns : Schone Aus- 
sicht ; Stadt Frankfurt), a town of 2400 
inhab., distinguished by the twin Gothic 
towers and spires of open work (b. 1 839) 
of its old Church — in which is a monu- 
ment to the Elector John Philip von 
Schonborn, 1675. There is another 
famous vineyard near this, upon the 
hill called the Eothenberg, which is 
much frequented on account of its fine 
view. The country seat of Baron 



Zwierlein contains a fine collection of 
stained glass from the commencement 
of the art to the present time. 

rt. The very conspicuous white man- 
sion on the heights, at some little dis- 
tance from the river, is the Chateau of 
Johannisberg, the property of Prince 
Metternich, standing in the midst of 
the vineyards which produce the most 
famous of the Bhine wines. The 
house, built 1716, though seldom in- 
habited, has been enlarged by its present 
owner. It is not remarkable, but the 
view from the balcony and terrace is very 
fine. In the Schlosskirche is a marble 
monument to P. Metternich' s tutor, Mc. 
Voght. It is difficult to obtain admit- 
tance to the cellars : they are very ex- 
tensive. The first owners of the vineyard 
of Johannisberg were the monks : it was 
originally attached to the abbey and 
convent of St. John, afterwards secu- 
larised. It is still known by the name 
of Bischofsberg. In the beginning of 
the present cent, it belonged to the 
Prince of Orange ; but before it had 
been in his possession 3 years Napo- 
leon made over the vineyard as a gift 
to Marshal KeUermann. At the close 
of the war it again changed hands, and 
in 1816 was presented by the Empr. of 
Austria to Prince Metternich, who holds 
it as an imperial fief. The ground 
around is too precious as a vineyard to 
be laid out in gardens : no trees are 
allowed, as they would deprive the vines 
of the sun's rays ; but on the N. side of 
the house there is a sort of wilderness 
planted with trees. The best wine grows 
close under the chateau, and indeed 
partly over the cellars. The species of 
vine cultivated here is the Biesling. 
The management of it at all seasons re- 
quires the most careful attention. The 
grapes are allowed to remain on the 
vines as long as they can hold together, 
and the vintage usually begins a fort- 
night later than anywhere else. The 
vine-grower is not satisfied with ripe- 
ness, the grape must verge to rotten- 
ness before it suits its purpose ; and al- 
though much is lost in quantity by this 
delay in gathering, it is considered that 
the wine gains thereby in strength and 
body. So precious are the grapes that 
those which fall are picked off the ground 
with a kind of fork made for the pur- 



288 



ROUTE 38. THE RHINE (d). ERBACH. 



Sect. IV 



pose. The extent of the vineyard is 
ahout 70 acres, and it is divided into 
small compartments, the produce of each 
of which is put into separate casks : even 
in the hest years there is considerahle 
difference in the value of different casks. 
Its produce amounts in good years to 
about 40 butts (called stucks), each of 
7£ ohms, and has been valued at 80,000 
fl. A cask of 1350 bottles has been 
valued as high as 2200 florins : the 
highest price ever paid was 18,000 fl. 
for 1350 bottles, or rather more than 
11. 2s. a bottle. The purchasers were, 
in moieties, George TV. and the King of 
Prussia. The wine is deposited in the 
cellars of the chateau in cask, but al- 
ways delivered in bottle, with the 
prince's signet. In bad years the juice 
of the grape never goes into the cellars 
at all, but is forthwith sold off for what 
it may fetch. 

The Rhine here attains its greatest 
breadth, 2000 ft., spreading itself out to 
about double the width which it has 
below Rudesheirn ; at Cologne it is only 
1300 ft. broad, and at Wesel only 1500 
ft. In the middle of its channel are 
numerous small islands extending all the 
way up to Mayence. 

rt. Winkel (Vini Cella, so called be- 
cause Charlemagne's wine-cellar was 
situated here) and Oestrich, 2 unim- 
portant villages. At Mittelheim, near 
Winkel, is a curious church, date 1140, 
with a nave and 2 aisles all under one 
roof, and with a portal built of white 
and grey stone, in a mixed style of 
Moorish and middle-Italian. 

rt. Count Schonborn's chateau, Rei- 
chartshausen, a short distance below the 
village of Hattenheim (1000 inhab.), 
contains an interesting collection of 
paintings, chiefly modern. Among 
them are a capital work of our own 
Wilkie, called " Guess my name ;" a 
Holy Family, by Overbeck, in the cha- 
pel ; Telemachus and Eucharis, by 
David; the Dying Robbers, by L. Robert ; 
Italian Peasants, P. Hess ; Raphael and 
'the Fornarina, Picot ; &c. 

rt. A little higher up the river, upon 
the hill of Strahlcnberg, grows the 
famous Markobrunner wine, so named 
from a small spring or fountain close to 
the high road, which here runs on the 
borders of the river. 



The nobles of the Rheingau, once so 
numerous, rich, and powerful, are greatly 
diminished in number and wealth. The 
chief of those ancient families still re- 
siding on its banks are the Counts Bas- 
senheim, Ingelheim, and Schonbom ; 
these, with Prince Metternich and the 
Duke of Nassau, possess the best vine- 
yards on the Rhine. 

(rt.) Erbach {Inn, Traube), a small 
village. An excursion may be made 
either from Hattenheim (2^ m.) or 
from Erbach to the Cistercian Convent 
of Eberbach, once the most considerable 
monastic establishment on the Rhine. 
It is prettily situated at the foot of the 
hills, in a sheltered nook, nearly sur- 
rounded by woods, which, sweeping- 
down the slopes, spread themselves like 
a mantle around it. It was founded by 
St. Bernard de Clairvaux in 1131. It 
is now the property of the Duke of 
Nassau, and is converted into a prison 
and asylum for maniacs, for which it is 
well calculated by its vast extent. These 
establishments are exceedingly well 
managed, but they are not readily shown 
to strangers. More accessible and in- 
teresting to those who take pleasure in 
architecture are the Churches, very piu-e 
specimens of the Romanesque style, de- 
rived doubtless from Cologne. The 
oldest of these, a small building, sup- 
ported by 2 rows of slender columns, is 
probably part of the first foundation of 
St. Bernard, erected 1131. It is now 
occupied by wine-presses, and some of 
the best Rhine wines are made in it. 
The larger Church, a spacious edifice, 
was built 1186 : it is of severe architec- 
ture. There are many curious monu- 
ments, especially of the Katzenelnbo- 
gen and von Stein (de Lapide) ; one of 
a knight, " amicus fidelis hujus monast," 
MCCC. ; also of Abbots and Archbishops 
of Mayence, Gerlach (1371), and Adolph 
II. von Nassau (1474). The long dor- 
mitory, in the pointed Gothic of the 14th 
cent, imposed on round work, and the 
Chapter-house of the 15th, also merit 
notice. 

The vaults under these buildings are 
used by the Duke of Nassau as cellai-s, 
to contain what he calls his Cabinet of 
Wines, comprising a collection of the 
choicest productions of the vineyards of 
the Rheingau. 



R. Prussia, r. 38. — the rhine (d). Steinberg, elfeld. 



289 



The celebrated Steinberg vineyard, 
once the property of the monks of Eber- 
bach, now of the Duke of Nassau, lies 
upon the slope of the hill, close to the 
convent. The wine produced from it 
is esteemed quite as much as Johannis- 
berg ; and the culture of it is managed 
with even greater care and cost than 
that vineyard. It consists of about 100 
valuable acres, enclosed within a ring 
fence : the high wall is passed in going 
to Hattenheim or Erbach. In the 
spring of 1836 half of the finest wines 
in the Duke's cellars were sold by pub- 
lic auction. The cask which was con- 
sidered the best, the flower, or, as the 
Germans call it, the Bride (Braut) of 
the cellar, being cabinet Steinberger of 
1822, was purchased for the enormous 
sum of 6100 fl. = about 500/., by Prince 
Emile of Hesse. It contained 3£ ohms, 
about 600 bottles ; and the price 
was therefore equivalent to 16s»4d a 
bottle. 

From the Moss-house on the Boss, a 
neighbouring height, a view is obtained 
which the author of the Bubbles calls 
" the finest he had witnessed in this 
country." 

1. In the distance, on the top of the 
hill, nearly opposite, or on a line with 
Hattenheim, may be discerned Ingel- 
heim, the favourite residence of Char- 
lemagne, now a poor village. (Rte. 98.) 

Charlemagne used to resort to the 
low islands in the middle of the Rhine 
from Ingelheim to fish. His unfortu- 
nate son Lewis, pursued by his own im- 
pious sons, ended his days (840) on one 
of them, a fugitive. 

rt. The large building between Er- 
bach and Elfield is the Draiser Hof, once 
an appendage to the convent of Eber- 
bach. 

rt. Elfeld or EUville (Alta villa) — 
Inns: Hirsch (Stag); Engel— is the 
only town of the Rheingau. It has 
2000 inhab., is conspicuous from its 
situation, and picturesque from its 
Gothic towers. The lofty vcatch-tower 
surmounted by 4 turrets, at the upper 
end of the town, is part of the castle 
built in the 14th cent. Here Gunther 
of Schwarzburg, beseiged by his rival 
Charles IV., resigned the crown, 1349, 
and died, probably of poison. Around 
[N.G.] 



the town are many handsome villas and 
country seats of the German noblesse. 
In that of Graf von Elz are some good 
pictures — a fine Domenichino, Susanna 
in the Bath. In the pretty valley be- 
hind Eltville lies the village of Kidrich, 
with a beautiful Gothic Chapel of St. 
Michael, built 1440, conspicuous for its 
turret open-work. In the Ch. is curi- 
ous woodwork and original galleries 
coeval with the building. The tower 
of Scharfenstein, once the residence of 
the bishops of Mayence, rises above 
Kidrich. The Grafenberg wine is pro- 
duced here. Schlangenbad is reached 
from this by a bridle-path through the 
woods, 6 m. long.. 

rt. Nieder-Walluff. At the end of 
the Walldaffthal, about 4 m.. N.W., lies 
Bauenthal, famous for its wine. 

rt. Schierstein is a village with more 
than 1300 inhab. The Picture Gallery 
of M. Habel contains many works by 
the old masters. Here ends the Bhein- 
gau, " the Bacchanalian Paradise," 
which, bounded by the Taunus hills on 
one side, and by the Rhine on the other, 
extends along the rt. bank of the river 
as far down as Lorch. It was given to 
the Archbishops of Mainz by a Carlo- 
vingian king, and was protected by a 
wall and ditch, some portion of which 
may still be seen near Biberich. A road 
turns off here to Schlangenbad, 8 m. 
(Rte. 95.) 

rt. About 4 m. behind Schierstein 
is the village of Frauenstein, with a 
ruined castle and an enormous lime- 
tree. 

rt. Biberich {Inns : H. Bellevue ; 
Rheinischer Hof) r the Chateau of the 
Duke of Nassau, of stucco, ornamented 
with red sandstone, with a circular 
building in the centre, is one of the 
handsomest palaces on the Rhine, though 
now somewhat dilapidated. The in- 
terior is remarkable only for the splen- 
dour and taste with which it is fitted 
up, and for the exquisite prospects up 
and down the Rhine. The gardens be- 
hind are of great extent and very pretty, 
and are liberally thrown open to the 
public. They are famous for their 
white andred chesnuts, and contain some 
fine ornamental timber. In the minia- 
ture castle of Mosbach, within their 



290 



ROUTE 38. THE RHINE (d). MAYENCE DOM. Sect. IV. 



circuit, on the bank of a small artificial 
lake, a number of Eoman antiquities 
are preserved. 

Biebrich stands on the limits of the 
Duchy of Nassau. Above this, the rt. 
as well as the 1. bank of the Rhine be- 
longs to Hesse-Darmstadt. The Bail- 
way from Wiesbaden to Frankfurt by 
Castel passes by Biberich, where there 
is a station. Passengers bound for Frank- 
furt or Wiesbaden may disembark here, 
and take the train to Wiesbaden in 10 



min., and to Frankfurt in 1| hr., 



sav- 



ing thereby half an hour's detour and 
detention at Mayence, Tariff- for por- 
terage from steamer to railway station, 
and vice versa at Biberich : — For trunks 
and large and heavy parcels, 6 kreut- 
zers each; for small do., 3 kr. each, 
The train is drawn by horses along a 
short branch from Biberich to the main 
line. (Rte. 95.) 

The red towers of Mayence (1.) now 
appear in sight, surrounded by fortifica- 
tions, connected by a bridge of boats 
over the Rhine with 

rt. The fortified suburb of Castel 
(Bahrdt's Inn, large and good, close to 
the railway), which forms the tete de 
pont. 

1. Mentz (Fr. Mayence ; Germ. 
Mainz). Inns: Rheinjscher Hof, best; 
Europaischer Hof ; Hessischer Hof, 
good and quiet ; Hollandischer Hof, 
good ; H. d' Angleterre, pretty good — all 
on the Quay close to the Rhine ; Drei 
Reichs-Kronen (Three Crowns) ; at Cas- 
tel, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, near 
the Railway Station, Bahrdt's Hotel. 
The landing-places of the steamers of 
the Upper and Lower Rhine are nearly 
a mile apart from each other. Porter- 
age is very exorbitant, Florins and 
kreutzers here come into use (Sect. 
VIII.) ; but Prussian dollars are also 
Current, 

Mayence, the Moguntiacum of the Ro- 
mans, belongs to the Grand Duke of 
Hesse-Darmstadt, and is the most con- 
siderable and important town in his 
dominions ; but, as the chief and strong- 
est fortress of the German Confedera- 
tion, it is garrisoned by Prussian and 
Austrian troops in nearly equal num- 
bers, and is commanded by a governor 
.elected alternately from either nation 



for a period of five years. It lies on the 
1. bank of the Rhine, nearly opposite 
the junction of the Main. It has 36,600 
inhab., and 8000 men garrison. 

Upon the Quai, where the steamer 
stops, are 3 large red buildings — the 
Kurfiirstliche Schloss, or ancient Palace 
of the Electors of Mayence, now con- 
verted into a Museum ; the Grossherzog- 
liche Schloss, originally Deutsches Haus 
(Teutonic House). It served as a resi- 
dence for Napoleon, and has now become 
the palace of the governor of the fortress, 
and the Arsenal, 

The most remarkable objects in Mainz 
are — the Cathedral, a vast building of 
red sandstone, blocked up on all sides 
but the E. by mean houses, less inter- 
esting for any beauty of architecture (as 
it is built in the massive round-arched 
style) than for its great antiquity, hav- 
ing been begun in the 10th and finished 
in the 1 1 th cent. ; but the date of the 
oldest parts now remaining, viz. the E. 
choir, transept, and nave, may be re- 
ferred to the period intervening between 
978 and 1137. The building, however, 
has suffered so much at different times 
from conflagrations, from the Prussian 
bombardment of 1793, and afterwards 
(1813) from having been converted into 
a barrack and magazine by the French, 
that the only portion of the original 
structure remaining in a tolerably per- 
fect state is that behind the altar at the 
E. end (978—1009). The octagonal 
tower (Pfarrthurm) at the E. end has 
been surmounted with a cupola of cast- 
iron 70 ft. high, designed by Moller. 
This ch., as well as those of Worms, 
Treves, and Spire, has a double choir 
and high altars both at the E. and W. 
ends, and 2 transepts. The W. choir 
elates from 1200— 1239 : the side chapels 
on the N. side were added 1291, those 
on the S. 1332. The most beautiful of 
them, that of All Saints, containing a 
very fine window, was built 1317. The 
double chapel of St. Gothard, adjoining 
the N.W. transept, is a particularly in- 
teresting specimen of Gothic, on ac- 
count of the period at which it was 
built (1136). It is therefore to be re- 
gretted that, for the sake of a few paltry 
dollars' rent, it should be let as a leather 
warehouse. The interior of the cathe- 



Rhen. Prussia, route 38. — the rhine (d). mentz. 



291 



dral is filled with. Monuments of Episco- 
pal Electors of Mainz ; the greater num- 
ber, placed upright against the piers and 
walls, are interesting illustrations of 
the progress and decay of the temporal 
power of the German church. The Arch- 
bishops of Mainz had the right of plac- 
ing the crown on the head of the Ger- 
man Emperors, and are sometimes re- 
presented on their tombs in that act. 
That of Archbp. Peter von Asfeldt (1305 
— 1320) bears, in addition to his own 
effigy rudely carved, those of the Em- 
perors Henry VII., Louis the Bavarian, 
and John King of Bohemia, all of 
whom he had crowned ; but, while his 
figure is on a scale as large as life, theirs 
are only half the size, and appear like 
children beside him. The Egyptians in 
their sculpture resorted to the same 
method of giving importance to their 
chief personages, and Sesostris appears 
a giant among pigmies. 

The monuments best worth notice in 
point of art are the following, executed 
at the end of the 1 5th or beginning of 
the 16th cent. : Prince Albert of Saxony, 
1 484 ; Canon Bernhard von Breidenbach, 
1497, executed with great truth of ex- 
pression and most delicate finish; Archb. 
Berthold von Henneberg, 1504, still 
more pure in style ; Archb. Jacob of 
Liebenstein (1508), and Uriel von 
Gemmingen. Among those of later 
date we may mention that of Baron 
Dalberg (1606), the oldest baron in 
Germany. Three other monuments de- 
serve mention on account of the persons 
whose memories they record. One is 
that of Fastrada, third wife of Charle- 
magne (794), by the side of the Beauti- 
ful Doorway leading into the cloisters, 
(date 1397-1412), lately restored. She 
was not buried here, but in a church 
now destroyed, from which the monu- 
ment was removed. Another is the 
tomb of the Minstrel or Minnesanger 
Frauenlob, "Praise the Ladies," so 
called from the complimentary charac- 
ter of his verse. His real name was 
Hcinrich von Meissen. He was a ca- 
non of Mainz cathedral, and so great a 
favourite of the fair sex, that his bier was 
supported to the grave by 8 ladies, who 
poured over it libations of wine at the 
same time that they bathed it with their 



tears. His monument, a plain red 
tombstone, stands against the wall of the 
cloisters. It bears his portrait in low 
relief, copied (1783) from the original, 
which was destroyed by the carelessness 
of some workmen. A more worthy monu- 
ment from Schwanthaler' s chisel was 
erected in 1843 to the " Ladies' Min- 
strel," by the ladies of May once. On 
the 1. side of the nave is a red sand- 
stone monument, erected 1357, to St.. 
Boniface, the apostle of Germany, and 
first Archbp. of Mayence. He was 
an Englishman named Winfried, born 
at Crediton, in Devonshire, of noble and 
wealthy parents ; and became a monk 
in the Benedictine Abbey of Nutsall, 
near Winchester, in which, in the be- 
ginning of the 8th cent., he taught 
poetry, history, rhetoric, and the Holy 
Scriptures. He left his country, with, 
11 other monks, to preach the gospel to 
the barbarous nations of Germany ; in 
the course of his mission he converted 
more than 100,000 heathens ; his mis- 
sionary labours, interrupted only by 3 
short visits to Eome, lasted more than 
30 years, and extended from the Elbe 
to the Rhine, and from the Alps to the 
ocean. He was created a bishop, but 
without a diocese, by Pope Gregory 
II. ; archbp. and Primate of all Ger- 
many by Gregory III. ; and by Pope 
Zachary, Archbp. of Mentz, then first 
constituted the metropolis of the Ger- 
man churches. 

The attention of travellers should 
also be directed to the pulpit, a modern 
restoration ; the figures of the apostles 
are copied from those by Peter Vischer 
at Nuremberg. An ancient font of lead, 
formerly gilt (1328), behind the eastern 
altar, and the brazen doors opening into 
the Market-place (called Speise Markt), 
on the N. side of the cathedral, also de- 
serve notice ; they were brought from 
the ruined Liebfrauenkirche, and are as 
old as the 10th cent. In 1135 Bp. 
Adalbert I. caused to be engraved on 
the upper valves of the doors an edict, 
by which he conferred various import- 
ant privileges upon the town in consi- 
deration of the aid which the citizens, 
his subjects, had afforded him, in res- 
cuing him out of the hands of the Em- 
peror. They procured his release from 

o 2 



292 



ROUTE 38. THE RHINE (d). MENTZ. MUSEUM. Sect. IV. 



prison by seizing on the person of the 
Emperor, and detaining him as a host- 
age until their own sovereign was de- 
livered up. 

In the sacristy are preserved two very 
ancient chalices, probably of the 10th 
cent. ; one, the gift of Archbp. Willigis, 
is a curious sample of Byzantine art. 

The Elector of Mentz, who was also 
Archbishop, was premier prince of the 
German empire ; he presided at Diets, 
and at the election of Emperor, where 
he exercised very powerful influence ; 
so that one Primate, Werner, on pro- 
posing a candidate, is reported to have 
added, " I have others in my pocket." 
His dominions comprehended 146 Grer- 
man square miles, with a population of 
400,000 souls, and a revenue of If mil- 
lion of florins. He maintained a body- 
guard of 2000 men and a squadron of 
hussars. 

The canons of the Cathedral, sup- 
ported by its enormous revenues, lived 
a jovial life, as may be gathered from 
the answer they returned to the Pope, 
who had reproved them for their worldly 
and luxurious habits : " We have more 
wine than is needed for the mass, and 
not enough to turn our mills with.*' 

St. Stephen's Ch. (in the S.W. part of 
the town), built 1317, has a nave and 2 
aisles of nearly equal height : the clois- 
ter is of the 15th cent. It contains 
some old paintings on gold grounds and 
numerous monuments. 

Museum, in the ancient Kurfiirstliche 
Schloss (close to the Rhine, and at the 
end of the long street called Die grosse 
Bleiche) . The collections consist of, 1 . 
Paintings, of no great excellence. The 
best works are, 1. Christ and the Four 
Penitents, David, the Magdalen, the 
Prodigal Son, and the Penitent Thief, 
by Otto Vennius ; 2. A Carmelite Monk 
receiving the dress of his order from 
the-Virgin, A. Caracci. 3. St. Francis 
receiving the Stigmata (five wounds), 
Guercino; 16. Virgin and Child, Lo- 
renzo da Credi, the gem of the collec- 
tion ; 17. St. Apollonia, Domenichino ; 
18. St. Andrew and St. Ursula, by Lu- 
eas van Leyden, or some old German 
master. 20-28. The Life of the 
Virgin, by M. Griinewald, are curious : 
also Adam and Eve, by Albert Diirer, but 



so much injured and painted over as to 
show few traces of the master. 2. An- 
tiquities, curious, because for the most 
part found in the neighbourhood, such 
as Roman altars, votive tablets, and 
inscriptions in which the names of the 
legions stationed on this spot are com- 
memorated. There are also several 
capitals of columns from the palace of 
Charlemagne at Ingelheim, in the style 
of Roman architecture, being, in fact, 
the plunder of ancient buildings in Italy ; 
some fragments of sculpture from the 
venerable Kaufhaus, pulled down with- 
out cause in 1805 ; and a model of the 
double stone bridge which Napoleon 
proposed to throw over the Rhine here. 
The Town Library is a very respectable 
collection, where are preserved some 
interesting specimens of the earliest 
printing. 

The Theatre is a handsome building 
designed by Moller, after the classical 
model of the theatres of the ancients, in 
which the outer form bears some relation 
to the interior. 

The Public Gardens (die neue Anlage) 
outside the fortifications, on the S., be- 
yond the Neue Thor, and nearly oppo- 
site the mouth of the Main, are highly 
deserving of a visit, on account of the 
beautiful view they command of the 
junction of the Main and Ehine, of the 
town of Mayence, the Rheingau, and the 
distant range of the Taunus. To add 
to the attractions of this spot, the ex- 
cellent military bands of the Austrian 
and Prussian regiments play here once 
a-week, Friday, between 4 and 8 p.m. 
There is a cafe at one extremity of the 
garden, forming the favourite evening 
resort of the inhabitants in summer. 

Another good view may be had from 
the top of the Tower of Drusus, an an- 
cient Roman structure, believed by some 
to be the tomb of Drusus, son-in-law of 
Augustus, the founder of Mayence, 
whose body was brought hither after 
his death. From mutilation or decay, 
its base is now reduced to smaller di- 
mensions than the upper part, which 
may have produced in it a fanciful re- 
semblance to an acom, and perhaps 
have given rise to the name Eichel stein, 
acorn, by which it is vulgarly known. 
All the external and well-fitted ma- 



Rhen.Prm. route 3 8. — therhine(d). mentz. English church. 293 



sonry has long sinco been stripped off, 
and the passage for the staircase lead- 
ing to the top was drilled through the 
solid mass in 1689. It stands within the 
Citadel, but is readily shown by one of 
the soldiers. Excavations made in form- 
ing new fortifications have laid bare the 
foundations of the original Roman Castel- 
lum Mbguntianum of Drusus, and show 
that it was an oblong square, with flank- 
ing towers, planted on the eminence 
overlooking the confluence of the Main. 

The music of the Austrian and Prus- 
sian military bands, which may be 
heard on parade almost every day in 
the week during summer, is remarkably 
good. 

Mayence has been from very early 
times a frontier fortress. It owes its 
existence to the camp which Drusus 
pitched here, which he immediately 
afterwards converted into a permanent 
bulwark against the Germans, It soon 
became the most important of that 
chain of fortresses which he built along 
the Rhine, and which were the germs 
of most of the large towns now existing 
on that river. Though reduced from its 
former wealth and splendour by the 
fortunes of war, and still showing, in its 
irregular streets and shattered and trun- 
cated buildings, the effects of sieges 
and bombardments, it ought not to be 
regarded merely as a dull garrison 
town. Europe is indebted to this city 
for two things which have had the 
greatest influence in effecting human 
improvement — the liberation of trade 
from the exactions of the feudal aristo- 
cracy, and the Printing Press. It was 
a citizen of Mayence, Arnold von Wal- 
boten, who first suggested the plan of 
freeing commerce from the oppression 
of the knightly highwaymen, with 
whose strongholds the whole Continent 
was overspread at the beginning of 
the 13th cent., by a confederation of 
cities which led to the formation of 
the Rhenish League, 1247. This same 
"Walboten deserves to be held in 
grateful remembrance by every Rhine 
tourist; since many of the ruined 
castles which line its banks were re- 
duced to their present picturesque con- 
dition at his instigation, and under the 
energetic rule of the Emperor Rudolph 



of Habsburg, as being the haunts and 
strongholds of tyranny and rapine. 

Mainz was the cradle of the art of 
Printing, and the birthplace and resi- 
dence of John Gensfleisch, called Gut- 
enberg or Gutemberg, the discoverer 
or inventor of moveable types. In 
1837 a bronze statue of Gutemberg, 
modelled by Thorwaldsen r a Dane, 
and cast at Paris by a Frenchman, 
was erected in the open space op- 
posite the Theatre. The expenses 
(26,000 fl.) were defrayed by sub- 
scriptions from all parts of Europe. 
Gutemberg' s house no longer exists; 
but upon its site stands the Civil Casino, 
a club or reading-room at the end of 
the Schuster Gasse, the members of 
which have erected a small statue of 
him. Gensfleisch (literally, goose-flesh) 
was born between 1393 and 1400, in 
the corner house between the Emmeran 
St. and the Pfandhaus St. which still 
exists, and his first printing-office, from 
1443 to 1450, is the house called Hof 
zum Jungen, or Fdrberhof. He was 
buried in the ch. of St. Francis, now 
pulled down : it stood opposite to the Hof 
zumHumbrecht, and the new houses of 
the Schuster Gasse now occupy its site. 

The English Church service is performed 
every Sunday by a clergyman licensed 
by the Bishop of London, in the Lycee, 
formerly Jesuits' College. 

Near the village ofZahlbach, about a 
mile beyond the Gauthor, are consider- 
able remains of a Soman aqueduct nearly 
3000 ft. long, which conveyed water to 
supply the garrison ; 62 pillars remain, 
but it is said to have originally con- 
sisted of 500. The reservoir which it 
fed is hardly to be detected at present, 
in a small pond near the Gauthor, called 
the Duck-puddle (Entenpfuhl) . 

Excellent Hochheimer and Rhine wine 
may be procured at the house of Hoff- 
man. Von Zabem, bookseller, has a 
good collection of guide-books, maps, 
and prints. 

A bridge of boats, 1666 ft. long, over 
the Rhine, unites Mainz to Cassel, or 
Castel (Castellum Drusi), a busy and 
flourishing faubourg, strongly fortified 
as a tete de pont. At the extremity of 
the bridge a bomb-proof block-house 
serves in time of peace as a barrack ; 



294 



ROUTE 39. — THE AHR VALLEY. AHRWEILER. 



Sect. IV. 



but in case of war the roof can be re- 
moved, and tbe tipper platform mounted 
with cannon. There is a heavy toll for 
carriages passing the bridge. 

Railway to Frankfurt in 1 hr. ; — to 
Wiesbaden by Biebrich in 16 min. — 
Trains 6 times a-day. (Ete. 99.) 

Eilwagen daily to Darmstadt ; to 
Coblenz ; to "Worms ; to Saarbruck, 
Metz, and Paris. (Rte. 101 .) 

The excursions to be made from Ma- 
yence are, — to Frankfurt by railway ; 
to Wiesbaden ditto (6 m.), visiting the 
Chateau and Garden of Biebrich on the 
way. (Rte. 99.) 

Steam-boats go from Mayence several 
times a day to Coblenz and Cologne, 
twice a day to Mannheim during summer, 
and daily to Strasburg (see Rte. 102). 

ROUTE 39. 

THE AHR, VALLEY. — REMAGEN TO AHR- 
WEILER AND ALTENAHR. 

From Remagen to Altenahr, 4 Germ, 
m. = 19 Eng. m. There is a good car- 
riage-road from Bonn to Altenahr, over 
the hill direct, 3| Germ, m = 17± Eng. 
m. ; going this road and returning to 
Bonn by Remagen, the excursion will 
occupy a long day of 8 or 10 hrs. 

Schnellpost daily from Bonn to Alten- 
ahr in 4 nrs., and to Treves in 18 hrs. 

The scenery of the Ahr valley is by 
many esteemed equal in beauty to that 
of the Rhine. By means of excellent 
roads it may be explored with the ut- 
most ease and convenience. 

A carriage may be hired at the Preus- 
sischer Hof in Remagen, with 1 horse, 
to Altenahr and back, for 3 thai. Pas- 
sengers by the steamer may land at 
Linz, and, crossing the Rhine to Kripp, 
engage a carriage there, or start from 
Sinzig. 

The pedestrian may cross the hills 
from Bonn to Altenahr, by the Kreuz- 
berg, Ippendorf, Rottgen, and Mecken- 
heim, or, landing from the steamer at 
Remagen, after seeing the church on 
the Apollinarisberg may walk over the 
shoulder of the hill, and join the car- 
riage road at Heppingen. The road on 
the 1. bank of the Rhine as far as Re- 
magen is described p. 264. 

Between Remagen and Sinzig the 



Ahr in summer often dries up to a 
mere thread, but, swelling in winter to 
a furious torrent, enters the Rhine. A. 
carriage road, turning off abruptly at 
the bridge of Sinzig, ascends the valley 
along the 1. bank of the stream, passing 
through Bodendorf and Lorsdorf ; and 
under the basalt-capped hill of Lands- 
krone. The ruined walls on its sum- 
mit are those of a castle, built 1205 
by Philip of Hohenstaufen dining 
the war between him and Otho of 
Brunswick for the Imperial crown, 
1198-1208. Hence, during these 
wars of Guelph and Ghibeline, his 
troops attacked the Archb. of Cologne, 
and laid waste the neighbouring towns. 
It was destroyed by the French 1689 ; 
only its chapel escaped, partially built 
over a cave fined with basaltic columns, 
which serves as sacristy. There is a 
good view from this hill of the winding 
of the Ahr. Close by the road-side, at 
Heppingen, there is a mineral spring. 
Below Ahrweiler the valley is tame and 
open, though rich and well cultivated. 

2 j Ahrweiler (12 m. from Remagen 
by the carriage road, 9~ by the road 
over the hill. Inns : Kreuzberg ; the 
host has capital Ahrbleichart ; — Kai- 
serlicher Hof; — Stern, good), a town 
of 2500 inhab., whose chief occupation 
and wealth are derived from their vine- 
yards, which cover the slopes of the 
valley. Arhweiler is the centre of the 
wine trade of the valley : the average 
annual produce is 1 9,000 ohms=about 
74,000 English gallons. The situation 
of the town is pretty; it is still sur- 
rounded by walls, and is approached by 
4 gates. The church is a beautiful 
Gothic edifice, with a treble choir (date 
1245-74). The town was burnt by 
the soldiers of Turenne, 1646, and suf- 
fered again from the French in 1688. 
The picturesque Calvarienberg, on the 
opposite side of the Ahr, is crowned 
with a Franciscan convent, which has 
been converted into an Ursuline nun- 
nery, and occupied by sisters from 
Montjoie, who keep a ladies' school. 
The gate tower at the entrance of the 
town from Walporzheim is an interest- 
ing object, well preserved externally. 

At Walporzheim, the first village 
traversed by the road after leaving 



Rhenish Prussia, route 39. — the ahr valley, altenahr. 295 



Arhweiler, the- Burgundy grape is cul- 
tivated, and produces a strong red wine, 
which is highly prized. — Ahrbleichart 
(%. e. Bleich-roth, pale-red). Here the 
valley contracts, and is hemmed in by 
rocky cliffs, and the wild and beautiful 
sceneiy , which has obtained for the val- 
ley the name of " Kleine Schweitz," 
begins. At Marienthal, to the rt. of 
the road, are the ruins of a convent. 
Above the road rise singularly formed, 
jagged precipices, 200 feet high, from 
which an isolated block, called die 
bunte Kuh, projects over the road. A 
footpath leads over the hills from be- 
hind the village of Dernau to Alten- 
ahr; "the carriage road, now conti- 
nued uninterruptedly along the 1. bank 
of the Ahr, passes in sight of the pic- 
turesque village of Rech, and under a 
rock crowned by the ruined castle of 
Saffenburg, to Maischoss. The patient 
toil exerted in cultivating the vine on 
every accessible shelf of rock up the 
declivities of the hills around is not 
surpassed in the most valuable vine- 
yards on the Rhine. Here and at 
Lochmuhle is the principal fishery of 
Rumpchen (minnows), the Gyprinus 
phoxinus of naturalists, which are taken 
in baskets (like eel pouts) placed in 
weirs or dams of the river. They should 
not exceed an inch in length, and, hav- 
ing been cooked in cider and water, are 
packed in baskets made of willow bark, 
which imparts to them the bitter flavour 
for which they are esteemed." The Ahr 
is also celebrated for its crawfish and 
trout, which, however, arc taken chiefly 
in its tributary streams. " The rocks 
at Lochmuhle are low and narrow, and 
a passage has been cut through them 
by which the road passes without fol- 
lowing the windings of the river round 
the projecting hill, but rejoins it on 
the other side of the cutting. The road 
then makes a nearly semicircular sweep 
along the river-side, being supported on 
a wall washed by it." — T. H. Before 
reaching Altenahr a most striking 
scene opens out : precipices of slate 
rock rise round to a height of 350 ft., 
partly wooded, partly covered with 
vines, and on their highest peak are 
perched the ruins of the Castle of Alt- 



enahr, the finest object in the whole 
valley. A footpath strikes off to the 
rt. above Reimerzhofen, and leads to 
the Gross, the best point of view in the 
valley, whence the castle is well seen. 
A path on the opposite side leads up to 
the castle, or down into Altenahr. The 
traveller should send on his carriage 
from this to Altenahr, and walk up to 
the cross. The precipitous rock, crowned 
by the castle, seems to deny all passage 
up the valley ; the river sweeps round 
its base, and forms so complete a curve, 
that, after a course of a mile and a half, 
it almost returns to the same point. A 
tunnel 192 ft. long has been cut through 
the rock to allow the passage of the road. 

1~ Altenahr (Inns: TJMch's, at the 
entrance of the town, and Caspari's are 
good and clean) is a village of 400 
inhab. Ascend to the ruined Castle of 
Altenahr, above the town ; the view will 
richly reward the trouble of the ascent. 
The traveller should then ascend the 
hill on the W. side of the valley, be- 
yond the bridge of Altenahr, in order 
to command a full prospect of the wind- 
ing course of the Ahr ; the path, how- 
ever, is steep. 

Travellers having come to Altenahr 
in a carriage, or being unable to walk, 
will of course retrace their steps to the 
Rhine. A moderately good walker may 
cross the hills by a bridle-road, which, 
by the directions given below, he can 
easily find without a guide, provided he 
can speak a little German, from the vale 
of the Ahr to the abbey of Laach (7 
stunden = 20 miles) (Rte. 40), whence 
he should return to the Rhine through 
the pretty valley of Brohl, which ought 
not to be missed. 

The carriage road from Altenahr up 
the valley proceeds by way of Alten- 
burg, situated under a singular isolated 
rock, formerly crowned by a castle of 
the lords of the Ahr. The castle of 
Kreuzberg, with the village of the 
same name, presents a striking point of 
view, and the church of Piitzfeld, 
perched up in the rocks, with a singu- 
larly high steeple, is also very pictur- 
esque. The road continues through 
Briick and Honningen to Dumpelfeld, 
where the Adenau falls into the Ahr, 



296 



ROUTE 40. — THE LOWER EIFEL. LAKE OF LAACH. Sect. IV, 



and the traveller proceeding to Treves 
quits that river. The carriage road 
ceases at 

2 1 Adenau, a town of 1200 inhab., 
on one of the tributaries of the Ahr, 
under the mountain called Hohe Acht, 
2434 ft. above the sea, and from which 
there is a fine view. Adenau itself 
contains nothing worth notice ; but not 
far distant are the ruins of the castle of 
Niirberg, the finest and most extensive 
feudal stronghold in the Eifel. From 
hence the traveller may find his way to 
Mayen (p. 298), passing another old 
castle, Virneburg, whose lords in ancient 
days, besides other possessions, were 
the proprietors of 23 villages. 

The traveller proceeding on foot to 
the Abbey of Laach from Altenahr 
should proceed up the valley on the 
road to Adenau by Altenburg and Putz- 
feld to Briick, and there turn to the 
eastward along the Hurein brook or 
Kesselingerthal. He need not go along 
the road as far as Briick ; but may, if 
he pleases, cross the shoulder of the hill 
above Piitzfeld into the Kesseling val- 
ley. Proceed up this valley through 
Kesseling (2 hrs. from Altenahr) and 
Staffel; a little beyond which latter 
place, where a brook comes down a 
valley and falls into the Hurein, turn 
to the right, i. e. the S., and, skirt- 
ing along the side of the hill to the E. 
of the brook, proceed to Nieder-Hecken- 
bach. At the sign-post in this village 
turn to the left to Ober-Heckenbach, 
and so on to Hannebach. In passing 
over the high ground between these 
two places there is a fine view of the 
seven mountains ; and just after leaving 
Hannebach, the castle of Olbruck is 
seen standing out boldly on the left. 
From Hannebach proceed over the ridge 
to Engeln, thence over the high land in a 
S.E. direction to two crosses, or rather 
a broken cross, where the rt.-hand road 
leads to Mayen, and that on the left to 
Laach. About § hr. further on, a sign- 
post at the entrance of a beech wood, 
points with one of its arms to Laach ; 
plunge boldly into the wood, and after 
a short walk the lake and abbey burst 
upon you. 



EOUTE 40. 

THE LOWER EIFEL. BROHL TO THE 
LAKE OE LAACH, MAYEN, AND LiJT- 
ZERATH. 

The traveller may leave the Rhine 
at Brohl or Andernach (see p. 265). 
Suppose he starts for Brohl (where 
Nunn's inn is good), a cross-road, but 
calculated for light carriages, ascends 
the beautiful valley of Brohl, passing 
in succession Nippes, a hamlet named 
from the Dutch Nieuwe Huis, the paper- 
mill and trim garden of M. Fuchs, the 
Trass mills and quarries, the Castle of 
Schweppenburg, once belonging to the 
counts of Metternich, beneath which 
are many spacious halls and cavernous 
chambers hollowed out of the rocks. 
Some way higher up the valley issues 
forth the spring of Tonnis&ein (l^ 
stunde), whose agreeable mineral water 
resembles those of Selters, but is more 
effervescent. Mixed with Rhenish wine 
and sugar it is very palatable. Near 
the spring stood an ancient Carmelite 
convent, almost concealed beneath cliffs 
of tuff-stone and slate : it was demo- 
lished, and the materials sold for their 
value, in 1829. 

Numerous jets of carbonic gas issue 
out of the rocks in this neighbourhood, 
some of which have been ingeniously 
collected by the owner of a chemical 
manufactory, and are employed in his 
works. Our path here turns out of the 
Brohlthal, diverging to the 1. into a 
side valley. The scenery of the pretty 
winding valley is very pleasing as far 
as | Wassenach, a small village (6 m. 
from Brohl), lying at the foot of the 
hills, whose interior includes the lake 
of Laach, and having an humble inn, 
Laacher Hof, where pike from the lake 
may generally be had. A continued 
ascent of about 1 m. from the village 
leads to the margin of the Laacher See, 
a very singular lake, of a nearly circular 
form, supposed to occupy the crater of 
an extinct volcano, and nearly resem- 
bling the crater lake of Bolsena, in 
Italy. It lies 666 ft. above the Rhine, 
is about If m. long, and about If 
broad, its area being 1300 aeres. The 
depth is great, increasing towards the 



Rhenish Prussia. route 40. — the lower eifel. laach. 



297 



centre, where a plumb-line sinks to 214 
ft. There is a popular notion similar 
to that attached to the lake Avernus, 
in Italy, that no bird can fly over the 
Laacher See, in consequence of the poi- 
sonous vapours arising from it. This 
belief seems to have originated from 
the circumstance that a jet of carbonic 
acid gas issues from a scarcely percept- 
ible opening on the N. E. side of the 
lake. It is the only remaining symp- 
tom of the volcanic action once so 
powerful in this district. Bodies of 
birds, squirrels, bats, toads, &c, have 
been found in a pit near this jet, killed 
by the noxious vapours, which resemble 
those of the Grotto del Cane, in Italy. 
The Laacher See is fed by numerous 
springs below the surface, which keep 
its basin constantly filled. It has no 
natural outlet ; but the superfluous 
waters are carried off through a subter- 
raneous canal or emissary, nearly 1 m. 
long, cut by the monks in the 12th 
century, after an inundation which 
threatened to overwhelm the abbey. 
A new tunnel is projected by the pro- 
prietor, to lay dry a portion of the 
lake bed. 

The appearance of the deep blue lake, 
hemmed in on all sides by a ridge of 
hills completely covered with luxuriant 
wood down to the water's edge, is ex- 
ceedingly imposing as well as singular. 
On a near examination its banks will 
be found to be scattered over with 
masses of scoriae, cinders, ashes, and 
pumice, and other volcanic products. 
At the opposite extremity, in a quiet 
secluded nook, shut out as it were from 
the whole world, lies the deserted (1 
stunde) Abbey of Laach, a picturesque 
object, with its 5 towers. It was ori- 
ginally a very wealthy Benedictine 
Convent with more than 200 chambers. 
There were 52 monks at the time of 
its suppression by the French. Its 
revenue having been sequestrated at 
the time of the French Revolution, it 
was sold a few years ago, together with 
the lake and woods adjoining, for only 
40,000 thalers. It is the property of 
the Prasidentinn von Delius, by whose 
family it is inhabited during the sum- 
mer, and seems to be kept in perfect 
repair. A great portion of the building 



is now, however, used for farming pur- 
poses, and its once hospitable halls 
occupied by cow-stalls. The Church, 
containing several old family monu- 
ments, has been purchased and re- 
stored at the expense of the K. of 
Prussia. The colouring in the church 
and cloisters is the same as that which 
was discovered under the whitewash to 
have originally decorated the archi- 
tecture. It is perhaps the most perfect 
and complete example known of an edi- 
fice in the round-arched style. It was 
built between 1093 and 1156. It is 
entered at the "W. end through a cloister, 
The tomb of the founder, Pfalzgraf 
Henry II., stands within the ch. at 
the W. end, surmounted by his effigy 
in wood. He is represented in his 
princely mantle and hat, and bearing 
in his hand the model of the ch. 
There is an old chapel at a short dis- 
tance from the oonvent, in the same 
style as the abbey ch., and appa- 
rently of the same date, which is now 
used as a granary. There is a small 
Inn in the abbey close, which will fur- 
nish refreshments, and provide 2 or 3 
bed-rooms. 

There is a picturesque view of the 
abbey and lake from the hill about j 
mile on the road to Mayen on the first 
ascent from the shore of the lake. 

The traveller may return to the Rhine 
byway ofWassenach to Andernach along 
a tolerably good carriage road, a drive 
of about 2~ h. ; but if he has time, 
from Kloster Laach he should visit the 
great Millstone quarries of Nieder-Men- 
dig, 2 m. S. E. of the abbey, which have 
been worked, it is supposed, for 2000 
years. The hard porous lava, which 
was probably a stream from one of the 
neighbouring volcanoes, extending near- 
ly 5 m. in length by 3 in breadth, has 
here been hollowed out by the quarriers 
into funnel-shaped pits, from the bottom 
of which spacious subterraneous caverns 
ramify, deserving by all means to be 
explored. The lava separates into 
gigantic columns from 15 to 40 ft. 
high, by natural seams or fissures, and 
some of them are left to support the roof. 
The small additional expense of torches 
to light up these caverns will be well 
repaid. Their temperature is icy cold. 

03 



298 



ROUTE 41, — COBLENZ TO TREVES. MTJNSTER. 



Sect. IV. 



- From Mendig (where there is no 
good inn) the traveller may return to 
the banks of the Bhine at Andernach 
(6 m.) by a bad road. There are, 
however, many other objects of interest, 
both for the lover of the picturesque 
and for the geologist, in this district. 
About 2 m. S. W. of Laach are the 
cave-like excavations of Bell, whence 
oven-stone (pierre au four) is obtained. 
The direct road from Mendig to Cob- 
lenz (14 m.) passes the Ch. of St. 
Genovefa. 

A tolerable road leads from Mendig 
to Mayen, along the banks of the Nette, 
passing the interesting and well-pre- 
served castle of Burresheim, under the 
Hoch Simmer, a volcanic mountain. 
There are many other fine old ruined 
castles in the Eifel, as Virneburg, 01- 
briick, a noble ancient fortress : its 
donjon measures 45 ft. by 30 at its base, 
and it has a tower 170 feet high. "Wer- 
nerseck and Manderscheid (p. 315) are 
two more remarkable castles. 

Mayen (Inns : Post ; — Stern, com- 
fortable) is a picturesque and ancient 
town, 6 m. from Laach, through Bell 
and Ettringen, with a castle surrounded 
by walls and gardens. There are many 
millstone quarries near it. Schnellpost 
daily to Coblenz. 

From Mayen the traveller has the 
choice of the following routes : — 1. By 
Polch to Miinster-Maifeld, Schloss Elz, 
Treis, and Carden, where he will find 
himself in the most beautiful spot on 
the Moselle, and may ascend that river 
to Treves, or descend to Coblenz. 
Starting from Mayen very early in the 
morning, and proceeding through Collig 
to Pillig and Schloss Pyrmont in a car- 
riage, the traveller may, after inspect- 
ing Schloss Pyrmont, walk across the 
country to Schloss Elz, see that, and, 
descending the valley of the Elz, reach 
Moselkern in time for the steamer de- 
scending to Coblenz. 2. The high post- 
road to Treves and Coblenz (Bte. 41). 
3. If he take an interest in geology, he 
may proceed by a rough cross-road to 
the mountain called " Hohe Acht," near 
Kaleborn, 2200 feet above the sea, com- 
manding from its summit a most exten- 
sive view. He will find a road leading 
thence to Liitzerath and Bertrich (p. 



299), to Ahrweiler (p. 294), and to the 
Upper Eifel (p. 314). 

EOUTE 41. 

COBLENZ TO TREVES — BERTRICH. 

15f Pruss. m. = 71 Eng. m. 

Schnellpost daily in 16 hours ; with 
extra post the distance may be travelled 
easily in 12. The road, though very 
hilly, is good, and the country (especi- 
ally in the neighbourhood of Liitzerath) 
not unpicturesque. Within a short dis-, 
tance, between the road and the Moselle, 
there are some charming scenes. As 
there is no post-road along the banks of 
the Moselle, the best way to explore its 
beauties is to ascend or descend it in 
the steamer (p. 305). 

Upon the first stage from Coblenz to 
Treves lie many unimportant villages ; 
but the first of them, Metternich, gives 
its name to a family now known all 
over Europe. 

[Twice a week the schnellpost, in- 
stead of passing through Polch, makes 
a slight detour by the little town of 
Mayen, 3£ G. m. (Kte. 40) to Kaiser- 
sesch, If m.] 

3i Polch. 

[The small town of Miinster-Maifeld 
(Inn : Bey Canaris) lies on the left of 
the road, about 5 m. off, in a beautiful 
situation. By some it is said to have 
been the birthplace of Caligula (?) 
The Ch. of St. Martin, standing on a 
Boman foundation, " is handsome in the 
interior, though plain. It contains a 
marble group, nearly life-size, of the 
Deposition, and 2 fine sculptured Tryp- 
tychs, or folding altar-pieces, painted. 
The W. end is quite castellated." — ■ 
F. S. About 3 m. distant, in the midst 
of one of the most picturesque of all the 
tributary valleys of the Moselle, stands 
the very interesting old castle of Elz, 
described in Bte. 42. The castle is 
about 3 m. distant from the Moselle. 
About 3 m. higher up the valley is 
another castle, Pyrmont, in ruins, having 
been burnt by the Swedes in 161-1 ; 
near it is a cascade.] 

Halfway between Kehrig and Dun- 
genheim the road crosses the picturesque 
valley of the Elz. 

The traveller coming from Treves, 



Rhenish Prussia. 



ROUTE 41. — BERTRICH. 



299 



and wishing to explore the Lower Eifel 
(Rte. 40), would turn off to the left 
at Kehrig, towards Mayen, instead of 
proceeding- at once to Coblenz. 

2£ Kaisersesch. Cross the picturesque 
Martenthal. 

2| Liitzerath. Inn : Post ; not good. 
A public carriage goes daily from 
Liitzerath to Alf on the Moselle : it 
belongs to the postmaster, who is also 
postmaster at Alf. He runs another 
carriage to Dreis. See Rte. 44. 

This is the best starting-point for an 
excursion to the volcanoes of the Upper 
Eifel. (Rte. 45.) 

[An excellent road leads through most 
interesting scenery from Liitzerath to 
Alf on the Moselle, about 10 m., pass- 
ing the very retired Baths of Bertrich, 
nearly half-way. They lie in the depths 
of the narrow valley of the Ues, or 
Issbach, distinguished for its sinuosities, 
which present a succession of scenes, 
varying every few yards, and for the 
umbrageous foliage of the woods, which 
clothe its sides from top to bottom. 
Just before the road descends into the 
valley, it passes near the Falkenlei, a 
conical hill cut in two as it were, crested 
with basalt, in the crannies of which the 
falcons nestle. It was probably a vol- 
canic crater, from which a stream of 
basalt, occupying the lower part of the 
valley above the slate rocks which form 
its sides, may have issued, though the 
lava current has not been absolutely 
traced to this source. Its gloomy cre- 
vices and grottoes, glazed with black, 
are well worth exploring. A mile farther, 
at the junction of a little rivulet with 
the Iss, another basaltic current enters 
the valley. It appears to have been cut 
through by the stream, which, falling in 
a small cascade, has laid open a singular 
grotto, the sides, roof, and floor of 
which consist of small basaltic columns, 
worn away at the joints, so as to re- 
semble cheeses. This has obtained for 
the cave its common name of cheese 
cellar (Kasekeller). The junction of 
the clay-slate and lava is very distinctly 
seen in the bed of the rivulet. The 
Baths of Bertrich consist of an assem- 
blage of inns and boarding-houses 
(among which 'Werling's Inn, the Kur- 
haus, is very good), in a romantic and 



retired spot, shut in by hills, and al- 
most canopied by woods, intersected by 
agreeable walks. The waters are warm 
(90 c> Fahr.) and sulphurous. The sea- 
son lasts till August ; but Bertrich is a 
quiet rather than fashionable water- 
ing place, and its accommodations are 
homely compared with Baden or "Wies- 
baden, It is well situated as head- 
quarters for travellers intending to ex- 
plore the Moselle. The steamboat from 
Coblenz to Treves touches daily at Alf, 
a village at the junction of the Issbach 
and Moselle 5 m. below the Baths 
(Rte. 42). A capital road leads thither. 
From Bertrich to Treves, a rough but 
picturesque road, over the mountains, 
falls into the high road at Wittlich 
(8 m.) ; see below.] 

About 2 m. out of Liitzerath the road 
crosses what is called the Liitzerather 
Kehr (from kehren, to turn), one of the 
valleys peculiarly characteristic of the 
Eifel district, and remarkable for their 
wonderful windings and contortions. 
Every projection on the one side of it 
corresponds with a bay or recess on the 
other, so that the stream of the Ues or 
Issbach, which flows through it, driven 
from one side to the other by these ad- 
vancing and retreating buttresses, is 
seen at one time in 7 different bends or 
turns, taking at every bend which it 
makes an exactly opposite direction to 
that in which it had previously flowed. 
It is altogether a singular scene. 

2| Wittlich (Inn ; Post ; good), a 
town of 2200 inhab, An extremely bad 
cross-road leads hence to Bertrich baths 
(8 m.). The descent into the glen on 
this side is very fine, 

2 Hetserath. 

Beyond Schweich the Moselle is 
crossed by a ferry, and the road pro- 
ceeds by the rt, bank to Treves, passing, 
near the entrance of the town, the Porta 
Nigra, or Black Gate (p. 302). 

2f Treves (French, Treves ; German, 
Trier). — Inns; Trierischer Hof; Das 
Rothe Haus (the red house), comfortable 
and well situated ; Luxemburger Hof, 

This very ancient city stands on the 
rt. bank of the Moselle, in a valley of 
exuberant richness, surrounded by low, 
vine-clad hills; it has 16,000 inhab. 
An inscription on the wall of the Rothen 



300 ROUTE 41. — TREVES. ROMAN REMAINS. CATHEDRAL. Sect. IV. 



Haus (formerly the Town-hall) asserts 
that Treves was built before Rome — 
" Ante Romam Treviris stetit annis 
MCCC." Without giving credit to 
this, it may fairly be considered the 
oldest city in Germany. Julius Caesar, 
when he first led the Roman armies into 
this part of Europe, found Treves (b. c. 
58) the flourishing capital of a power- 
ful nation, the Treviri, who, as allies of 
the Romans, rendered them great as- 
sistance in conquering the neighbouring 
tribes. The Empr. Augustus esta- 
blished here a Roman colony, under the 
name of Augusta Trevirorum, and be- 
stowed on it the privileges of having a 
senate and magistrates of its own. It 
became the capital of First Belgic Gaul 
(which, it must be remembered, com- 
prised not only Gaul, properly so 
called, but the whole of Spain and 
Britain) ; and in later times it was the 
residence of the emperors Constantius, 
Constantine the Great, Julian, Valen- 
tinian, Valens, Gratian, and Theodosius, 
and became so eminent in commerce, 
manufactures, wealth, and extent, and 
withal so advanced in learning and the 
arts, that Ausonius the poet, who lived 
here, calls it the second metropolis of 
the empire. It was indeed the capital 
of the Roman empire IS", of the Alps. 
Although almost annihilated during the 
invasion of the Goths, Huns, and Van- 
dals, it arose to a height of splendour 
nearly equalling its former state, under 
the rule of the Archbishops of Treves, 
who were Princes and Electors of the 
empire. Many of them seem to have 
aimed more at temporal than spiritual 
sway. They maintained large armies, 
which, after the fashion of the times, 
they did not scruple to lead in person, 
clad in armour. The ambition and 
talents of many of these episcopal rulers 
increased their dominions so much as to 
obtain for them considerable political 
influence in Germany. Treves was 
taken by the English under Marlborough 
in the War of the Succession, 1702-4; 
and at the French Revolution suffered 
the usual fortune of having its churches 
and convents stripped of their wealth, 
and the buildings turned into stables or 
warehouses. Before that event Treves 
boasted of possessing more ecclesiastical 



buildings than any other city of the 
same size. 

Treves is at present a decayed town, 
owing the chief interest it possesses for 
the traveller to the Soman remains still 
existing in and about it. No other city 
of Germany or northern Europe pos- 
sesses such extensive relicts of the mas- 
ters of the world. They are not, it is 
true, in the best style of art, and are 
remarkable rather for vastness than 
beauty ; and in this respect bear no 
comparison with the Roman remains in 
the S. of France or in. Italy. They 
have likewise suffered severely, not only 
from the Vandalism of the Vandals 
themselves, but from the prejudices of 
the early Christians, who believed they 
were doing good service to their reli- 
gion by effacing all traces of Paganism 
from the earth. Many of the buildings 
have been demolished, to furnish ma- 
terials for modern constructions. 

In the market-place stands a 'pillar 
of granite, surmounted by a cross, raised 
to commemorate the appearance of a 
fiery cross in the sky, seen, according 
to an obscure tradition, in 958. 

The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. 
Helen is an irregular building, chiefly 
in the earliest Romanesque style. The 
semicircular terminations both of the 
E. and W. ends are full of Roman 
bricks. Indeed the nucleus of the 
building is supposed to have been of 
Roman construction, and to have been 
built by the Empress Helena, mother of 
Constantine the Great, who deposited, 
in it the supposed relic, our Saviour's^ 
Coat icithout seam ; which, after an in- 
terval of 34 years, was exhibited for 8 
weeks in 1844 to 1,100,000 pilgrims ! 
The first historical mention of it is in 
1190; a full accoimt has been pub- 
lished by Prof. Marx, of Treves. The 
original building of Helena is supposed 
to have consisted of 9 arches supported 
in the centre by 4 colossal pillars of 
granite ; 3 of these still exist in their 
place ; indeed, all the 4 Corinthian ca- 
pitals are visible in the interior of the 
church. The fotuth gave way, and, to 
prevent the total destruction of the 
building, its place was supplied by a 
square pier of masonry, and the others 
were walled up by Archbp. Poppo, who 



Rlien. Prus, r. 41. — liebfrauenkirche. palace, baths. 



301 



repaired the church in the 11th cent. 
This fractured column lies at present 
on the outside of the church ; it must 
have heen brought from a distance, — 
perhaps from the Odenwald. The E. 
choir was added in the latter half of the 
12th cent., and is an instance of the 
latest and lightest Romanesque. The 
church was roofed and altered about 
1200, at which time additions in the 
pointed style were introduced. Within 
the church are numerous monuments 
of Electors of Treves, including that of 
the warlike prelate Richard von Greif- 
enklau, who defended the city in person 
against Franz of Sickingen. ' ' A marble 
bas-relief, on the tomb of Archbp. Hu- 
go, of the Adoration of the Magi, is 
worthy of observation." — D. J. The 
carving of the marble pulpit is good, as 
far as the mutilations caused by the 
French leave the means of judging. 
The seats of the choir are singularly 
inlaid with ivory and wooden mosaic 
(Marqueterie) . A portion of the large 
funds derived from the exhibition of the 
Holy Coat are being applied to the 
restoration of the Cathedral, which is 
carried into effect by painting over the 
marble and wood carving, and white- 
washing the stonework. The cloisters 
date from a very early period. 

Adjoining the cathedral stands the 
far more graceful Church of our Lady 
{Liebfrauenkirche), built in the most 
elegant Pointed style, between 1227 
and 1243 ; and being one of the earliest 
specimens of pure Gothic, to be com- 
pared with the similar and contempo- 
raneous churches of Marburg in Hesse, 
Altenberg near Cologne, and the ca- 
thedrals of Amiens, Salisbury, and Co- 
logne. The semicircular portal is richly 
ornamented with sculpture, and the in- 
terior, in the shape of a Greek cross, is 
supported by 12 pillars, each bearing 
the picture of an apostle. A little black 
stone in the pavement near the door is 
the only spot whence all these can be 
seen at once. The monument of Archbp. 
Jacob von Sirk is a fine work of an un- 
known sculptor. A doorway in the N". 
transept also is well worth attention. 
The portal of the Jesuits' Church is very 
good. 

The Palace of the Electors and Bishops, 



a very handsome and extensive build- 
ing, is now a barrack. The principal 
staircase displays much rich and elabo- 
rate carving. This palace stands partly 
upon the site of an enormous Roman 
edifice, only a fragment of which re- 
mains ; the larger portion having been 
demolished to make way for the episco- 
pal edifice, erected in 1614. This co- 
lossal fragment has been included in the 
palace, and goes with the vulgar by the 
name of the Heathens' Tower {Heiden- 
thurm). It was probably the Basilica 
or imperial hall attached to the Palace, 
the semicircular termination or apse at 
the E. end having been the tribunal ; 
and the whole perhaps at one time 
turned into a church ; as was the case 
with similar halls in Rome. Be this 
as it may, the gigantic proportions of 
this Roman edifice, whose walls are 
more than 90 ft. high, and 10 ft. 
thick, give a very good idea of the vast 
dimensions of the whole when entire. 
It is at the same time a masterpiece of 
architecture ; as the bricks and tiles of 
which it is wholly composed remain to 
this day perfectly smooth on the surface, 
solid, and compact, and the walls, after 
the lapse of ages, are without a crack or 
seam; but the King of Prussia has 
caused it to be cleared out and restored 
in its original condition, and to its 
former use as a ch. Additional in- 
terest attaches to these old walls, if we 
consider them as the favourite residence 
of Constantine, and that out of them 
issued the decrees which governed at the 
same time Rome, Constantinople, and 
Britain. 

In front of this building extends an 
open space of ground, now used for 
drilling troops ; at its further extremity 
stand the shattered remains of the Baths, 
Thermae (Bader-Palast). Until within 
a few years they were included in the 
S. E. angle of the fortifications of the 
town,- and were half buried in the 
earth ; so that the windows on the first 
story, being on a level with the ground, 
served as an entrauce into the town, 
and were barbarously broken away at 
the sides, in order to admit the market- 
carts of the peasantry : from this the 
building got the name of the White 
Gate. Under the direction of the Prus- 



302 ROUTE 41. TREVES. AMPHITHEATRE. BLACK GATE. Sect. IV. 



sian government these ruins have 
been laid bare. They resemble, on a 
small scale, the Thermae of Caracalla 
and Domitian at Eome. Vaulted rooms, 
reservoirs, remains of a hypocaust, 
earthen pipes, and channels for the pas- 
sage of hot as well as cold water, have 
been brought to light, and seem to ex- 
plain the original destination of the 
building. The massiveness of the well- 
turned arches, and the thickness of the 
walls, will excite admiration at the skill 
of the builders who raised them, and 
surprise at the violence which has re- 
duced them to so utter a state of dila- 
pidation. 

About | m. to the E. of the baths, 
outside the walls, on the road to Ole- 
wig, is the Roman Amphitheatre. It 
comes unexpectedly into sight, being 
scooped out of the side of the Marsberg, 
a hiU covered with vineyards, which 
but a few years ago extended over the 
arena itself. The late King of Prussia 
purchased the ground, and cleared away 
the earth which covered it to the depth 
of 20 ft. It is interesting in an his- 
torical as well as an antiquarian point 
of view, as it was upon this spot that 
Constantine entertained his subjects 
with a spectacle which he called Frank- 
ish sports (Ludi Francici), and which 
consisted in exposing many thousand 
unarmed Frankish prisoners to be torn 
in pieces by wild beasts. He twice 
exhibited these diversions (a. d. 306 
and 313), and the fawning chroniclers 
of the time have not scrupled to call it 
a magnificent sight, " magnificum spec- 
taculum, — famosa supplicia." So great 
was the number of victims, that the 
savage beasts desisted of their own ac- 
cord from their work of destruction, 
and left many alive, fatigued with 
slaughtering. Those who survived were 
made to fight as gladiators against one 
another; but they are said to have 
spoilt the amusement of the hard-hearted 
spectators, by voluntarily falling on 
each other's swords, instead of contend- 
ing for life. The arena itself, excavated 
out of the solid rock, and carefully le- 
velled, is 234 ft. long, and 155 broad: 
deep channels for water run round and 
through the centre : they were supplied 
by an aqueduct from the stream of the 



Euwer. Horns, tusks, and bones of 
various wild animals have been dis- 
covered in digging, and one or two cave- 
like vaults in the side walls were, it is 
supposed, the dens in which they were 
confined previously to exhibition. This 
Amphitheatre, capable of holding about 
6000 persons, was of humble pretensions 
in comparison with those of JSTismes, 
Verona, or the Coliseum, as, instead of 
being surrounded by several ranges of 
vaulted arcades of masonry, the sloping 
banks of earth, thrown up in excavating 
the arena, served to support the seats for 
the spectators. All traces of these have 
disappeared. The stones were probably 
used for building houses, as the amphi- 
theatre was long regarded no otherwise 
than as a quarry. Archways of solid 
masonry flanked by towers (no part of 
which now remain) formed the main 
entrances to the arena at the N. and 
S. E. extremity ; in addition to which, 
2 vaulted passages (vomitoria), bored 
through the hill, led into the arena 
from the side of Treves, and still remain 
in tolerable preservation. One of them 
has been converted into a cellar, and 
contains the wine which grows imme- 
diately over it. It is commonly called the 
Kaiserkeller (Caesar's cellar), because it 
is supposed to have led to the Eoman 
Emperor's private box. The other is 
not yet cleared out. The Roman Aque- 
duct, which conveyed water to Treves 
from the Euwer, still exists in those 
places where it passed under ground ; 
it was 3 or 4 ft. broad, and nearly 6 ft. 
high. The part which was supported 
upon pillars across the valleys had en- 
tirely disappeared. 

The Black Gate, Porta Nigra 
(Schwarzes Thor), called also Porta 
Martis, is the most interesting monu- 
ment of antiquity in Treves ; and has 
all the massive simplicity of the Eoman 
style. Neither its age nor use has been 
satisfactorily ascertained, but it is re- 
puted (with much probability) to have 
been built in the days of Constantine 
the Great, between 314 and 322. Kug- 
ler, indeed, regards it as a work of the 
Franks, dating not from classic times, 
but from the middle ages. Its front is 
decorated with rows of Tuscan columns, 
its lower story is very massive, and it 



Rhenish Prussia, koute 41. — Treves, bridge, abbeys. 



303 



may have originally been the entrance 
gate on the N. line of the city wall. 

Some have fixed the date of the 
building prior to the arrival of the Ro- 
mans, and have called it the Forum, 
Capitol, or Council-house, of the Bel- 
gee ; but the style of architecture favours 
the belief that it was a work of the 
Lower Empire. 

In the 11th cent, an anchorite named 
Simeon of Syracuse, who had been a 
monk in the convent of Mount Sinai, 
on his return from the Holy Land 
posted himself on the top of the build- 
ing, in imitation of his namesake 
Simeon the Sty lite. His ascetic and 
eccentric life gained for him the repu- 
tation of sanctity ; and in consequence 
he was enrolled in the calendar. Not 
long after his death the building was 
consecrated and dedicated to St. Simeon 
by Archbp. Poppo. To fit it for the 
service of religion, he added a semi- 
circular apsis to one end, which still 
remains a curious specimen of architec- 
ture, and formed 3 churches in it, one 
above the tother, in which service was 
regularly performed down to the begin- 
ning of the present century. Like most 
ancient structures, the lower part of it, 
as far as the tops of the gateways, had 
become buried beneath earth and rub- 
bish, so that the entrance to it was by 
a long flight of steps, leading to the 
first floor. In this state Napoleon found 
it on his arrival at Treves. It is in- 
sinuated that a want of ammunition, as 
much as a taste for art, induced him to 
free the building from its incumbrances, 
as he went no further than tearing off 
the thick lead from the roof, which he 
melted into bullets. The work of im- 
provement has been executed by the 
Prussian government ; the building has 
been divested of its ecclesiastical cha- 
racter, and restored, as far as possible, 
to its original condition, the earth 
having been cleared from its base. It 
exhibits various marks of the dilapida- 
tions of barbarous ages and people. 
The masonry, of vast blocks of sand- 
stone, averaging 4 or 5 ft., but in some 
instances 8 or 9 ft. long, rough on the 
outside, was originally so neatly fitted 
together, without the aid of cement, 
that the joints of the stones could 



scarcely be discerned ; but they have 
been chipped and mutilated at their 
angles, in order to extract the metal 
clamps which united them, and now 
seem to hang together by their corners. 
The interior serves to hold a few shat- 
tered fragments of antiquity, of no 
great interest, dug up in the neighbour- 
hood : the most curious pieces are, a 
bas-relief of gladiators found in the 
amphitheatre, a mermaid with 2 tails, 
several earthenware pipes from the 
baths, and 2 Roman milestones from 
Bitburg. 

Besides the Roman remains already 
enumerated, there is within the town 
(in the Dietrichs Strasse, not far from 
the Rothe Haus) , a Tower or Propug- 
naculum, in an excellent state of pre- 
servation. 

The Bridge over the Moselle is most 
probably the oldest Roman monument 
in Treves, and founded in the time of 
Augustus ; it is mentioned by Tacitus, 
and the date of its construction has 
been fixed by a learned antiquary 
about 28 years B.C. It originally stood 
near the middle of the town, which 
has gradually dwindled away till it 
has left the bridge at one extremity. 
Having resisted the storms of barbaric 
invasion, and the wild times of the 
middle ages, it was blown up by the 
French during the wars of Louis XIV. ! 
In consequence, the only ancient parts 
remaining are the piers of large stones, 
brought from the lava quarries at Men- 
dig, near the lake of Laach. Many 
single blocks are from 6 to 9 ft. long, 
3 broad and 3 thick. 

There were anciently 4 abbeys at 
Treves, celebrated for their riches and 
extent all over Germany ; but of their 
wealth nothing now remains, and even 
the original edifices, destroyed by fires 
and violence, are replaced by modern 
structures. They are — St. Matthias, 
about a mile above the town, now con- 
verted into a school. The ch. (partly 
ancient) is actually visited by many 
thousand pilgrims. St. Maximin, at one 
time perhaps the richest Benedictine 
monastery in Germany, is now used 
as a barrack ; it occupies the site of a 
palace of*Constantine, but possesses no 
other interest. St. Martin's on the 



304 



ROUTE 41. — TREVES. TOWN LIBRARY. IGEL. Sect. IV. 



Moselle is a china manufactory. St. 
Mary of the Four Martyrs, below the 
town, stands where the residence of the 
Roman Prefect stood, and where 4 
soldiers of the Theban legion suffered 
martyrdom, according to the tradition. 

In the Gymnasiums Gebdude (formerly 
a University, now removed) is the 
Town Library of 94,000 vols., contain- 
ing many literary curiosities, the chief 
of them being the famous Codex Aureus, 
a MS. of the four Gospels written in 
golden letters, formerly in the abbey of 
St. Maximin, to which it was given by 
Ada, sister of Charlemagne. It is 
bound in plates of silver gilt, on which 
are embossed figures in high relief, 
interspersed with precious stones ; and 
in the centre is a splendid cameo, said 
to represent Augustus and his family. 
There is also here Archbishop Egbert's 
copy of the Gospels, as well as other 
MSS., and many printed books of great 
value ; among them Gutemberg's first 
Bible. There is also a large collection 
of ancient coins and medals, and Roman 
remains, principally found at Treves. 

The Fathers of the Church, St. Am- 
brose was born here, and St. Jerome 
studied here. 

The Environs abound in debghtful 
points of excursion, fine views, &c. 
Pallien, a village on the 1. bank of 
the Moselle, at the mouth of a ravine 
up which the road to Aix-la-Chapelle is 
carried, is worth visiting on account of 
the picturesque character of the rocky 
dell, of the water-mills enclosed be- 
tween its cliffs, and of its brick bridge 
of a single arch thrown over the ravine 
by Napoleon. (Rte. 43.) On the 
height above Pallien stands a pretty 
villa, called the White House : it com- 
mands a good general view of the 
valley of the Moselle and of the town 
of Treves. 

Igel, a small village, with an inn, 
about 6 m. from Treves, on the high 
road to Luxemburg, and upon the an- 
cient Roman highway, is particularly 
deserving of a visit from all who take 
an interest in remains of antiquity, on 
account of the Igel Sdule (monument of 
Igel), a beautiful Roman structure, 
standing in the midst of it, clt>sc to the 
road. It is a four-sided obelisk of sand- 



stone, more than 70 ft. high, bearing 
carvings, inscriptions, and bas-reliefs, 
but so mutilated in parts, that neither 
its age nor destination has yet been 
precisely ascertained. 4 or 5 different 
explanations have been given of it, 
and at least as many readings of the 
inscriptions by the antiquaries. One 
states it to have been raised to com- 
memorate the marriage of Constantine 
and Helena ; another, that it records 
the birth of Caligula., tracing some re- 
semblance between his name and that 
of the place, Igel. A third considers 
it to allude to the apotheosis of some 
person of imperial rank. The plain 
matter of fact seems to be, that it was 
set up by two brothers named Secundi- 
nus ; partly as a funeral monument to 
their deceased relatives ; partly to cele- 
brate their sister's marriage, which is 
represented on one of the bas-reliefs by 
the figures of a man and woman joining 
hands. The Secundini were a rich and 
powerful family, who, it appears from 
the inscription, in addition to other 
offices, held those of postmaster and 
chief of the commissariat, and supplied 
the Roman army with food, accoutre- 
ments, and carriages, which is further 
denoted by the figure of a chariot, filled 
with armotvr, &c, the subject of ano- 
ther bas-relief. Prom the style of the 
architecture and carvings, the monu- 
ment has been referred to the time of 
the Antonines : some imagine it to be- 
long to the era of Constantme. Malte 
Brim says, " the end of the 4th cen- 
tury." (l It has great excellence as a 
work of art, and as a successful example 
of the combination of monumental 
architecture with sculptural decoration ; 
as a whole, its preservation is also re- 
markable."— £. C. L. 

Schnellposts daily from Treves to 
Coblenz in 14 hours, to Luxemburg in 
6 hours, to Metz in 15 : — to Bingen 
(Rte. 46); and to Aix-la-Chapelle in 
19 hrs. (Rte. 43.) 

Steamboats on the Upper Moselle 
between Treves, Thionville, and Metz 
during the summer. See Handbook 
for France. Dailv between Treves 
and Coblenz. (Rte.* 42.) 



Rhenish Prussia. 



ROUTE 42. — THE MOSELLE. 



305 



ROUTE 42. 

THE MOSELLE. — FK"OM TREVES TO 
COBLENZ. 

Distance, about 150 Eng. m. : — more 
than double that of the land journey, 
owing to the windings of the river. 
"Well-appointed steamers daily : — up 
to Treves in 1 3 day, starting from Co- 
blenz at 6 a. m. for Berncastel, and 
proceeding on the following day to 
Treves; down in 12 hrs., starting 
from Treves at 5 a.m. They take car- 
riages. Row-boats may be hired at 
every village to cross or drop down the 
river for short distances. 

Becker's " Map of the Course of the 
Moselle," and Delkescamp's "Pano- 
rama," may be useful. 

The voyage up or down the Moselle 
is a most interesting excursion ; 3 or 4 
days may be very agreeably spent on 
its banks. This river offers a new and 
pleasing route to travellers visiting the 
Rhine, who have hitherto been content 
to go and return by Cologne, thus re- 
tracing their steps over ground they 
have seen before. The route by the 
Moselle is equally accessible ; by taking 
it, they will add variety to their jour- 



ney, 



and make a better use of their 



time. An agreeable way of seeing the 
lower part of the Moselle in detail in 
one day is to take the steamer from 
Coblenz up the river to any given spot 
of interest where it stops, just far 
enough to allow the traveller to visit the 
glens and ruins on each side, making 
use of a boat occasionally, and work- 
ing downwards, taking care to stop at 
some village where the down steamer 
will put in to take up passengers. 
Thus he may go up to Carden, Aiken, 
take a walk to Ehrenburg, cross to 
Gondorf, go up to Cobern, cross back to 
Niederfell in time for the evening boat, 
and so return to Coblenz. 

The Prussian government has devoted 
a considerable sum to the improvement 
of the bed of the Moselle between Co- 
blenz and Treves. 

In order fully to appreciate the 
beauties of the Moselle, it is necessary 
to land at certain points indicated in the 
following route, and view it from its 
high banks. 



The Pedestrian alone can reach by 
by-paths and cross-roads, not passable 
for carriages, the finest points of view ; 
at one time creeping along the margin 
of the river, at another surveying it 
from the heights above. In every 
village he may find a boat in which he 
may embark when tired, and may thus 
shift about from one side of the river 
to the other. By crossing the narrow 
necks of land he may often save 6 
or 8 miles, and reach in § hour a 
spot that a boat would require 3 or 4 
to arrive at. In making these short 
cuts, however, he may sometimes miss 
fine scenes on the river. 

The Inns upon the Moselle are im- 
proved, but many of them will by no 
means satisfy fastidious travellers. 
Those at Berncastel, Alf, and Carden 
are capital ; at Zeltingen tolerable. 
The usual Charges at the Inns, seen 
and confirmed annually by the magis- 
trates, are, for dinner 15 S. gr., tea or 
coffee 5, supper 10, a bottle of wine 
from 5 S. gr. to 1 Th., a bed 8 to 15 
S. gr., bottle of Seltzer water 5 S. gr. 

The banks of the Moselle, though on 
the whole inferior in beauty to those 
of the Rhine, by no means present a 
repetition of the same kind of scenery. 
It is generally of a less wild and barren 
character; instead of black bare ravines 
and abrupt precipices, it is bordered by 
round and undulating hills, covered not 
merely with vines, but often clothed 
in rich woods, such as the Rhine can- 
not boast of. It is much enlivened 
with picturesque towns and villages, 
of which there are more than 100 be- 
tween Coblenz and Treves, while ruins 
of old castles, watch-towers, and Gothic 
church steeples are not wanting to give 
a religious or romantic tone to the 
landscape. The Moselle is particularly 
remarkable for its very complicated 
windings, which in several parts of its 
course form projecting promontories, 
almost isolated by the river. Some of 
the side valleys, too, which merge into 
the Moselle, are in the highest degree 
picturesque ; and the view of the ex- 
traordinary windings of the river, from 
the heights above it, are as singular as 
they are enchanting. The Moselle is 
not deficient in classical associations : 



306 



ROUTE 42.— -THE MOSELLE. TRARBACH. 



Sect. IV. 



it is even the subject of a poem by 
Ausonius, written probably during his 
residence at Treves ; and traces of the 
Romans may be discovered in almost 
every village along its banks, if not 
above ground, at least wherever the soil 
is turned by the spade. 

The first part of the voyage from 
Treves to Berncastel presents nothing 
of great interest : and it is not worth 
while to enumerate names of unimport- 
ant villages. 

1. The tall chimneys in the recess 
of a valley, and the wreaths of smoke 
proceeding therefrom, proclaim the iron- 
works of Quint. 

rt. Neumagen is the Roman Nb- 
viomagus, where Constantine had a 
palace, the " inclyta castra Constan- 
tini" of Ausonius, of which few frag- 
ments now remain. The Church was 
built 1190, partly with the materials of 
the Roman palace. 

1. Pisport (Pisonis Porta), Hain's 
Inn. One of the most famous vine- 
yards on the Moselle. 

rt. Opposite Dusemond is another 
vineyard, producing the capital wine 
called Brauneberger. 

rt. Muhlheim. Here the scenery 
improves in beauty. 

rt. Berncastel {Inns : Drei Kbnige, 
clean and good fare, and most com- 
fortable ; the landlady speaks English; 
— Niederehe ; — the Post, not bad), a 
dirty town of 2000 inhab., on the way 
from Bingen to Treves (Rte. 46), pic- 
turesquely situated under a ruined castle 
perched on a ledge of the Hundsruck 
mountains, which here approach close 
to the Moselle. There is a ferry here. 
Travellers tired of a boat should by all 
means cross the hills to Trarbach, an 
agreeable walk of an hour from Bern- 
castel. The distance by land is about 
3 miles, by water 15. The inn at Trar- 
bach is bad. 

1. Directly oyposite Berncastel lies 
Cus. The Hospital was founded by 
Cardinal Cusanus, who was born here, 
the son of a poor fisherman, and raised 
himself to that dignity by his talents. 
Attached to it is a Gothic chapel con- 
taining the very fine monument of John 
of Neuberg (1569). The rt. bank of 
the Moselle is here draped with vine- 



yards from top to bottom, (rt.) A little 
below Graach is . the Priory of Mar- 
tinshof, now secularized. 

rt. Zeltingen. — Huber's Inn, toler- 
ably comfortable and moderate. This 
may be said to be the centre of the wine 
district of the Moselle, in which all the 
best sorts are produced. 

1. Uerzig. Below this village, in the 
face of a tall red cliff called Michael- 
slei, a castellated wall is visible. It 
covers the mouth of a cave which once 
served to harbour a band of robber- 
knights, and afterwards to shelter a 
hermit. It was accessible only by 
means of high ladders. 

rt. Trarbach (the derivation of the 
name, from "Thronus Bacchi," is pro- 
bably fanciful). — Inns: Brauneberg, 
and GrUfinburg. The best red wine of 
the Moselle may be had here. The 
situation of this highly picturesque but 
most dirty little town, of 1300 inhab., 
is very beautiful ; it lies in the mouth 
of a side valley, opening upon the Mo- 
selle : but it is not otherwise interest- 
ing, and its narrow and dirty streets 
offer no temptation to penetrate within 
its gates. A neat Townhall, in modern 
Gothic style, has been built. The 
castle above it, called Griifnburg, was 
one of the strongest between Treves and 
Coblenz, commanding entirely the pas- 
sage of the Moselle. It was the family 
residence of the noble Counts of Spon- 
heim, and was built in the 14th cent. 
(1338) with an Archbishop's ran- 
som. A long and deadly feud had 
existed between the Archbishops of 
Treves and the Counts of Sponheim, 
when, in 1325, the death of Count 
Henry held out to the reigning Arch- 
bishop, Baldwin, the prospect of enrich- 
ing himself at the expense of the 
widowed Countess; taking advantage, 
therefore, of her unprotected position, 
he made inroads into her domain, plun- 
dering her subjects, and laying waste 
her lands. The Countess Loretta, how- 
ever, was gifted with a manly spirit, 
and was not a person to submit tamely 
to such insults and injury : so, calling 
together her vassals, she boldly ex- 
pelled the intruders with loss and 
disgrace ; equally to the surprise and 
indignation of Baldwin, who little 



Rhen. Prussia. 



ROUTE 42. TRABEN. ALF. 



307 



expected such opposition from a female. 
The very same year, as the bishop was 
quietly and unsuspectingly sailing down 
the Moselle to Coblenz, with a small 
retinue, his barge was suddenly arrested 
nearly abreast of the Castle of Starken- 
burg, by a chain stretched across the 
river below the surface ; and before he 
had time to recover from his surprise, 
armed boats put off from the shore, and 
he was led a prisoner into the Castle of 
the Countess. She treated her perse- 
cutor with courtesy, but kept him fast 
within her walls until he agreed to 
abandon a fort which he had begun to 
build on her territory, and paid down a 
large ransom. 

The finest scenery of the Moselle lies 
between Trarbach and Cobern. 

1. Traben. — Inn, Hotel Claus, unpre- 
tending, but clean and moderate. 
Opposite Trarbach rises a high hill, 
converted into a promontory by the 
windings of the Moselle. On the sum- 
mit of it Vauban constructed for Louis 
XIV. (1681), in the time of peace, and 
upon German territory, a strong for- 
tress, completely commanding the river 
up and down. The pretext for this 
proceeding was the unjust claim urged 
by Louis to the domains of the Counts 
of Sponheim. After 8000 men had 
been employed in constructing it, and 
an expenditure of many millions of 
francs had been incurred, it was razed 
to the ground, in conformity with the 
treaty of Byswick, 16 years after it was 
built, and a few broken walls and shat- 
tered casemates alone mark the site of 
Fort Montroyal. The view from it is 
grand. 

rt. Starkenburg, a village on an emi- 
nence, which once bore a castle of the 
same name, belonging to the Counts of 
Sponheim, and mentioned above. Its 
outworks extended down to the water- 
side, and some towers and walls still 
remain. 

rt. Enkirch, a village of 2000 inhab. ; 
near it are fragments of shafts of 
pillars, which go by the name of the 
Temple, and are perhaps Roman. 

On approaching (rt.) the village of 
Piinderich, the ruins of (1.) Marienburg, 
alternately a nunnery and a fortress, 
appear in sight; and from their posi- 



tion, on the summit of a high dorsal 
ridge, which the Moselle by its wind- 
ings converts into a promontory, remain 
long in view. The distance to Alf, 
from (1.) the village of Reil, near which 
a steep footpath (Rothenpfad, from the 
red colour of the soil) strikes upwards 
through the vineyards across the Isth- 
mus, is under 3 m.; by the winding 
Moselle it is a voyage in ascending of 
1^ hour. Travellers should on no ac- 
count omit to land here, opposite Piin- 
derich, and walk across the neck to 
Marienburg and Alf, which may be 
done in an hour. The view from the 
eminence a little to the "W. of Marien- 
burg, called Prinzenskopfchen, is the 
most surprising and pleasing that the 
whole course of the Moselle presents. 
It is a little like that from Symon's Yat 
on the Wye, but is on a much grander 
scale. Owing to the excessive sinu- 
osities of the river, 4 different reaches 
appear in view at once, radiating as it 
were from the foot of the rock on which 
you stand. A waving amphitheatre of 
hills, covered with dark forest, occupies 
the horizon, and nearer at hand vine- 
clad slopes, villages at the water-side, 
and old castles, with the Fort Arras on 
the Issbach, to the W., are the acces- 
sories of this beautiful panorama. 
There is a little inn within the ruins of 
Marienburg, where you may breakfast 
or dine. 

rt. Zell (Koch's Inn, not bad) is a 
little town of 1800 inhab. opposite the 
point of the promontory on which Ma- 
rienburg stands, overlooked by a guar- 
dian watch-tower. 

1. Alf. (Jnn, Bei Theissen, excellent 
— the best on the Moselle.) Alf, a good 
halting-place for the traveller on the 
Moselle, is a village prettily situated at 
the mouth of the winding valley of the 
Issbach; above it stands the church, 
and farther up the valley rises the pic- 
turesque hill fort of Arras, which stood 
out for a long time, in 1138, against 
Adalbert, Archbishop of Treves, who 
swore not to shave till he had taken it, 
and kept his word. 2 m. up the valley 
are the extensive iron forges and fur- 
naces of M. Remy, constructed accord- 
ing to the most improved English 
method. The iron is brought from 



308 



ROUTE 42. THE MOSELLE. COCHEM. CAKDEN. Sect. IV. 



Bendorf on the Rhine, the coal from the 
mines of Saarbruck. About 6 m. up 
this sylvan valley are the retired Baths 
of Bertrich (p. 299) ; an excellent new 
carriage road leads to them from Alf, 
where vehicles may usually be pro- 
cured. No one should quit Alf without 
enjoying the very extraordinary pros- 
pect from the Prinzenskopfehen near 
the Marienburg mentioned above — half 
an hour's walk. 

Soon after leaving Alf there is a very 
remarkable echo. 

1. Bremm, a wide and solitary spot, 
enclosed by huge dark hills. It is dif- 
ficult to guess how the river finds its 
way out ; indeed it has very much the 
appearance of the head of a lake. The 
steep slopes behind the village resemble 
somewhat the cliff of the Lurlei in 
boldness, but they are covered with 
vines to the very top. 

rt. On the pretty green meadow op- 
posite stood, until the time of the 
French Revolution, the nunnery of 
Stuben ; the massive wall of a ruined 
chapel, pierced with pointed windows, 
still remains. 

1. There is a path from the village of 
Eller over the hills to Cochem, only 
4 m. long. The windings of the river 
between these two places cannot be less 
than 12m., but those who avail them- 
selves of this short cut will lose some 
of the prettiest scenery on the river. 

1. Ediger is charmingly situated. 

1. Senhals. Heinrich's Inn. Little 
else than vines visible hereabouts, (rt.) 
Senheim at alittle distance from the river. 

rt. Beilstein. Inn execrable. Tra- 
vellers should on no account think of 
stopping here. One of the most pic- 
turesque ruined castles on the Moselle, 
surmounted by a square donjon-keep, 
overlooks Beilstein. It belonged to the 
Electors of Treves, who deputed their 
•noble vassals, the Metternichs and 
Winneburgs, to hold it for them. The 
small village nestles at the foot of the 
rock on which it stands. 

1. Cochem. — Inns ; H. de 1' Union ; 
Cornreichs; Romischer Konig. The 
distant view of this ancient town of 
2500 inhab., guarded as it were by the 
2 picturesque castles aloft upon the hills 
behind, is most romantic and attractive. 



But let the stranger be satisfied with 
admiring it at a distance, since, within, 
it surpasses in the filth and closeness 
of its streets all other towns on the 
Moselle. The Castle at the upper end 
was an imperial fortress; in 1689 it held 
out, together with the town, for a long 
time against the forces of Louis XIV., 
but being at last, after 4 separate as- 
saults, taken by storm, the greater por- 
tion of the garrison, consisting of 1600 
Brandenburgers, and many of the citi- 
zens, were inhumanly put to the sword, 
and the houses and castle burnt. This 
atrocious act was ordered by the French 
Marshal Boufflers, and executed by his 
subordinate officer, M. de Grignan, the 
son-in-law of Madame de Sevigne. 

The lower castle of "Winneburg is 
lost from view as you draw near the 
town, being situated some way up the 
glen of the Endertbach. It is the most 
ancient family seat of the Metternichs; 
the head of the house at present being 
the late Austrian Prime Minister, who 
has repaired it and fitted it up. 

The large building seen above the 
spire of the church, near the lower end 
of the town of Cochem, was originally a 
Capuchin convent, and is now a school. 

1. Clotten, a small village, with a 
church on an eminence, in the gap of a 
valley overlooked by a ruined castle. 
Monotonous hills intervene for a con- 
siderable distance between Clotten and 

rt. Treis, situated within a little 
amphitheatre of hills, from which, at a 
short distance from the river, 2 castles 
look down: one of them, Wildburg, was 
won in hard fight by an Archbishop of 
Treves, in the 12th cent. An elegant 
modern church has been erected at Treis. 

1. Carden (Spikerman's inn, good 
and clean. N.B. No good inn between 
this and Coblenz) is a picturesque old 
village, in one of the most lively situa- 
tions on the Moselle. The Church, con- 
spicuous with its 3 towers, was built in 
the 12th cent., in honour of St. Castor, 
whose body was buried here, and after- 
wards removed to Coblenz. The ex- 
terior and E. end are in the Romanesque 
style of architecture. Within, there is 
a curious antique font, and a represen- 
tation of the Entombment ; the figures 
are of stone, as large as life. At the 



Bhen. Prus. route 42.— the moselle, schloss elz. 



309 



lower end of the town, by the water- 
side, stands a picturesque castellated 
building, with projecting turrets, sur- 
rounded by a red fringe-like ornament, 
and surmounted by peaked roofs ; but 
of its history nothing is known. " Be- 
hind it is a Romanesque dwelling-house, 
of the 12th or 13th cent., free from 
alterations and interpolations, which 
has been unaccountably neglected by 
draughtsmen and antiquaries." — F. P. 

[A road runs from Carden to the very 
interesting old Castle of Elz, the beau- 
ideal of a feudal fortress of the middle 
ages ; but the walk to it is still further 
shortened by landing at the village of 

1. Muden, from which it is not more 
than 2 m. distant. A steep path 
ascends the hill, behind the village ; 
then, striking through fields and orchards 
to a farm-house, reaches a pretty green 
meadow, from which the winding vale 
of the Elz is visible, and out of which 
peer the singular peaked turrets of its 
castle, which no traveller should pass 
without visiting. 

The little stream of the Elz, remark- 
able for its excessive windings, almost 
encircles the tall bold rock on which the 
castle stands. A narrow isthmus of 
rock prevents its being an island, but 
this has been cut through, and over the 
ditch thus formed a bridge is thrown, 
forming the only approach. The banks 
of the river are thickly grown over with 
trees and brushwood ; and a second and 
rival castle, rising opposite to Schloss 
Elz, and within bow-shot of it, contri- 
butes to the beauty of this romantic 
valley. The Castle of Elz is a singu- 
larly irregular building, or group of 
buildings, adapted to the form of the 
rock on which it stands. The whole 
pile rises so abruptly from the preci- 
pitous sides of the rock that its pedestal 
appears scarcely large enough to hold 
it. The path leading up to the main 
entrance is cut in the rock, and is steep 
and slippery. It is the cradle of one of 
the most ancient and noble families in 
this part of Germany, and is an almost 
solitary example of a feudal residence 
spared by fire, war, and time, and re- 
maining in nearly the same condition 
that it was 2 or 3 centuries ago. It has 
lately been repaired, and is inhabited. 



The interior is a labyrinth of passages, 
turret- stairs, and chambers, many of 
which are of irregular shapes. Many 
of the apartments are hung round with 
family portraits, having the same degree 
of merit which similar subjects in 
English country houses usually exhibit. 
There are curious ornamented fireplaces 
(not stoves), and some rooms arc paved 
with monastic-looking tiles, with pat- 
terns impressed, not coloured. In one 
room there are a few pieces of armour, 
and one or two morsels of painted glass. 
These relics, and old furniture, tapestry, 
&c, are interesting, as illustrating the 
mode of life of generations long passed 
away. The stream of the Elz is seen 
from the projecting turrets, flowing in 
its snake-like course in the depth of the 
wooded gorge 80 or 100 ft. below. The 
rival castle before alluded to, Trutz-Elz, 
on the opposite rock, was built to defy 
the Lords of Elz, by Baldwin Bishop 
of Treves, who besieged them for many 
months, and cutting off, by this counter 
castle, the approaches to their strong- 
hold, at length compelled them to sur- 
render. They afterwards held this 
castle also as a fief from the Bishop, 
whose vassals they became. 

About 3 m. higher up the valley 
stands another castle, Schloss Pyrnwnt, 
burnt by the Swedes in 1641 ; and near 
it is a cascade. About 3 m. N. of Elz 
lies Munster-Maifeld. (lite. 41.) 

The Elz falls into the Moselle at 
Moselkern, about 4 m. below the Castle, 
but the path down the picturesque valley 
is very bad, fording the stream, or 
crossing it on stepping stones, 12 or 13 
times in that short distance. The easier 
way to Moselkern is to cross the hill, 
or follow the heights along the brink of 
the glen, which command noble views.] 

1. Moselkern (Inn enlarged), a village 
at the mouth of the picturesque vale of 
Elz. 

1. The Castle of Bischofsstein was a 
stronghold belonging to the Archbishops 
of Treves. Its tall cylindrical donjon 
tower is girt round with a white streak, 
and a ruined chapel adjoins it. It was 
built 1270. 

1. Hatzenport. Moritz's Inn. 

rt. Brodenbach stands near the mouth 
of the Ehrenbach. The ravine out of 



310 



R. 42. THE MOSELLE. ALKEN. COBERN. Sect. IV. 



which, it issues should by all means be 
explored. At first gloomy and dark, it 
in a short while opens out, and discloses 
a lovely valley with green meadows, 
vineyards, and water-mills closed up in 
front by a rocky height, on the summit 
of which, only 2 m. distant from the 
Moselle, stands the castle of JEhrenberg, 
towering above the tree tops. It is a 
splendid monument of old times, still in 
a tolerable state of preservation ; as it 
owes its decay to time and neglect, not 
to violence. It may be said to surpass 
in beauty any individual castle on the 
Ehine, and is well worth visiting. It 
now belongs to the v. Ste-in family. 

rt. Aiken, ,an ancient town, con- 
nected by a chain of towers with Schloss 
Thuron, one of the most picturesque 
castles on the Moselle, on the height 
above. It has two circular keeps, and 
the green ivy creeps along its walls. 
It was built in 1209, and was held in 
1246 by a robber knight, the Pfalzgrave 
Zorn. Having committed depredations 
in the territory of his neighbours, the 
Archbishops of Treves and Cologne, he 
was besieged for 2 years by their com- 
bined forces, who, during that time, 
emptied 3000 butts of wine. The gar- 
rison, having consumed all their pro- 
visions, surrendered the castle; but 
Zorn cut his way through the enemy. 

1. The village of Catenes is said to 
derive its name from a chain (catena) 
formerly stretched across the river at 
this point, to arrest boats and compel 
them to pay toll. 

1. Gondorf. The conspicuous build- 
ing at the upper end of this village, by 
the water-side, is the family mansion of 
the Counts von der Leyen, another of 
the oldest and most noble races on the 
Moselle ; which numbers among its 
members many generals in the Imperial 
armies, and 3 Electors of Treves and 
Cologne. The building was repaired 
in 1814, and has since passed out of the 
possession of the Leyens. 

At the lower end of the village stands 
a gable-faced house, connected with a 
tall tower of defence, built 1350, and 
said to have belonged to the Knights 
Templars. 

A large quantity of potters' and pipe 
clay, obtained from pits 3 m. off, at 



Dreschenich, is here embarked, and sent 
to Holland, to form pipes for the Dutch- 
men. It is quite white, and of good 
quality ; it is dug out from beneath a 
bed of gravel. 

1. Cobern. The heights behind this 
little town are crowned by 2 ruined 
castles — the lower, or Niederburg, and 
the Oberburg. Within the enclosure of 
the upper castle stands the very remark- 
able Chapel of St. Matthias. The way 
to it passes the new church, and the 
house of the pastor, who keeps the keys 
of the chapel, and will lend them to 
discreet persons. A steep footpath 
strikes up from a mill, through the 
vineyards, and behind the lower castle, 
which it leaves on the right. The view 
from the top is fine, and it takes about 
20 min. to reach it. St. Matthias's 
Chapel is an elegant little Gothic struc- 
ture, in the form of a hexagon, sup- 
ported within upon 6 clusters of co- 
lumns, each formed of 5 detached 
marble pillars. The exact date of the 
building is unknown, but the style of 
the architecture is that of the first half 
of the 13th cent., and its founders 
are supposed to have been Crusaders, 
who caused it to be erected on their 
return from the Holy Land. This may 
account for the somewhat Saracenic 
aspect of its interior. All the arches 
are rounded, except those which sup- 
port the central tower, which are pointed 
and slightly horse-shoed ; the lower 
windows are in shape like the ace of 
clubs. The effect of the interior is ex- 
tremely light and graceful, and this 
chapel deserves to be visited by all who 
interest themselves in architecture. It 
has been repaired by the architect Las- 
saulx. 

rt. Diebelich (quasi Diabolieh) is 
famous for witches, who in the middle 
ages were believed to haunt peculiarly 
this spot, and to hold meetings for mid- 
night revelry on the top of a neigh- 
boring mountain. At the end of the 
1 5th century, a bishop, who had written 
a book upon witchcraft, caused 25 per- 
sons to be binned here for that crime ! 
This is a pretty spot, surrounded by 
orchards and walnuts, with fine wooded 
banks opposite. 

1. Winningen is a Protestant village, 



JRhen. Prussia, route 43. — aix-la-chapelle to Treves. 



311 



though all around arc Popish. A neat 
modorn school-house faces the river. 

rt. Ley. At the breaking up of the 
frost in the Moselle in 1830 this village 
was buried nearly 30 feet deep in ice, 
which broke the timber framework of 
many of the houses, and entirely swept 
away several; overspreading all the 
lower vineyards. (See p. 269.) 

1. Guls, distinguished by its modern 
twin spires, is surrounded by orchards, 
which furnish cherries and walnuts in 
large quantities for exportation to Hol- 
land. A very narrow and dangerous 
carriage-road has been completed along 
the rt. bank of the Moselle, from Mosel- 
weiss to Niederfell. When improved 
and extended farther upwards, it will 
become equally conducive to the con- 
venience of the tourist, and to the pros- 
perity of the valley. 

1. The spire of the Ch. of Metternich 
is seen above the trees. 

rt. Moselweiss, a small village sup- 
posed to be the Vicus Ambitianus of the 
Romans, and the spot where Agrippina 
gave birth to Caligula. The tower of 
the church is of great antiquity, and is 
mentioned in records of the year 1209. 
Above Moselweiss rise the fortifications 
of Fort Alexander, one of the outworks 
of Coblenz, situated between the Moselle 
and the Rhine. 

rt. Coblenz (p. 269). 

Some of the finest scenery on the 
Moselle may be explored in 2 days, 
from Coblenz, thus : Take the steamer 
as far as Alf, and put up at the good 
inn there (p. 307) ; proceed thence in a 
post-chaise to the Baths of Bertrich, 
3 m. off, where the Kurhaus affords 
good quarters : here dine ; and if time 
can be spared, proceed after dinner to 
the Falkenlei, and return to Alf to 
sleep. Next morning rise early, and 
ascend the hill called Prinzenskopf- 
chen ; then take the descending steamer 
and return to Coblenz, or, if time will 
allow, stop at Carden, and walk or drive 
to Schloss Elz and Miinster-Maifeld, 
returning to Carden to sleep. Next 
morning hire a row-boat to Aiken, and 
walk thence in 2 h. up a side valley 
to the interesting castle of Ehrenburg, 
returning in time for the steamer to 
Coblenz, or proceeding thither by the 



road down the rt. bank of 
the Moselle. A shorter excursion may 
be made by taking the up steamer as far 
as Treis, in the morning, returning by 
the down boat in the afternoon. 

ROUTE 43. 

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO TREVES. 

20 Pruss. m. = 93 \ Eng. m. 
Schnellpost daily in 21 hrs. The 

accommodation for travellers is on a 
very low scale. The only tolerable 
sleeping quarters are at Priim, but they 
are indifferent. 

This excellent macadamised road was 
completed in 1836, by the Prussian go- 
vernment, to open a communication 
along the Belgian frontier; its design 
seems rather military than commercial. 
It lies through a country wild and 
dreary in parts, in others very beau- 
tiful; in all most interesting to an 
English botanist, who will find in the 
wild heath between Treves and Mont- 
joie, and in the latter town itself, some 
of the rarest plants of his own country. 

The road on leaving Aix-la-Chapelle 
is carried under the Cologne railway, 
and past the picturesque, ruined, moated 
castle Schonforst, near which is a very 
large lime-tree. About 7 m. from Aix 
is the village of Corneli-Munster, with 
750 inhab. The extensive remains of 
its ancient convent, founded 815, by 
Lewis the Pious, are turned into a cloth 
manufactury. 

2 1 Konigsberg. 

2| Montjoie, a small town of 3000 
inhab., on the Roer, manufactures 
much cloth. [Bauer's Inn is the best.] 
Its fine and nearly perfect Castle was 
almost entirely pulled down 1836. 
There are slate-quarries outside the 
town. 

The village of Kaltenherberg (1370 
inhab.) lies at the foot of the mountain 
range called Hohe Veen (Fr. Hautes 
Fanges, The High Fen). Their high- 
est summit is 2200 ft. above the sea : 
this is a wild and sterile district, 
abounding in bogs and marshes. The 
inhabitants are chiefly "Walloons. 

2\ Butgcnbach (Inn, Poste), a village 
of 500 souls. A cross road hence to 
Spa, by Malmedi (Rte. 44). 



312 



ROUTE 43. — PRUM. ROMAN HIGHWAY. 



Sect. IV. 



This stage lies over a wild dreary- 
track, part heath, part forest, which is 
burnt for charcoal, to 

2 Losheim, a small village. Its 
Church contains some relics : the cloth 
with which our Saviour girt himself 
and dried the apostles' feet — a part of 
his winding-sheet — fragments of the 
skull of St. Cornelius ! ! Near this a 
good cross road, on the 1., leads from 
Losheim to Hillesheim, in the Eifel (p. 
314). 

Here begins the chain of hills called 
Schneifel, Schnee Eifel (Snow Eifel). 

2§ Prilm — Inn, Goldner Stern; the 
best sleeping quarters between Aix and 
Treves, but indifferent. — D. G. Cheap 
and dirty. Bed, 15 S. gr. ; tea, 8 S. 
gr. ; breakfast, 8 S. gr. This small 
town lies at the S. extremity of the 
Schneifel, immediately beneath a beau- 
tifully wooded hill, and has 2100 inhab. 
Early in the 7th cent, the Benedictine 
monks fixed upon this agreeable val- 
ley, sheltered by hills and shrouded in 
woods, to build a monastery, which in 
course of time became one of the most 
wealthy near the Bhine. Its abbots 
had the rank of princes, and their 
estates lay not only in the immediate 
neighbourhood, but inPicardy, Zutphen, 
Gueldres, &c. Arnheim and St. Groar 
were possessions of the convent. Char- 
lemagne bestowed large grants upon it. 
His natural son, Pepin, became a monk 
here after incurring his father's displea- 
sure by his disobedience. The Empr. 
Lothaire retired hither, and also took 
the cowl. He converted his crown into 
a crucifix, which was preserved down 
to the time of the French Bevolution, 
when all the property of the monastery 
was confiscated. A portion of the old 
convent alone survives, and is now con- 
verted into a school. The church near 
it, in the Italian style, and uninterest- 
ing, replaces the magnificent original 
church of the Abbey Sancti Benedicti 
ad Pratum (whence the modern name 
Priim), of which no vestige now re- 
mains. In the burial-ground, outside 
the town, a stone cross is planted on the 
spot where the high altar stood. The 
walls of this edifice were pulled down 
to furnish materials for rebuilding the 
houses of the town after it had been 



destroyed by fire in 1769. The excur- 
sion to the Upper Eifel (Rte. 45) may 
be made from Prtim. There is some 
difficulty in obtaining a carriage here, 
except from the postmaster. In 1837 
one with 2 horses was hired here for 3 
dollars a day. The distance to Grerol- 
stein is about 12 m. The road is prac- 
ticable only for light carriages. 

Hereabouts the modern road falls in 
with the great Roman highway from 
Treves to Cologne. It is proved, by an 
inscription found at Marmagen, that 
Agrippa was the director of this, the 
greatest work of the Bomans in their 
Bhenish provinces. It was carried 
through a country still wild and un- 
peopled, but in their days as little trod- 
den as the backwoods of America are 
now. It appears by the Boman Itiner- 
ary, that, besides numerous post-houses 
(inutationes, for changing horses), there 
were 6 mansiones along this line of road, 
serving at the same time as military 
posts, garrisoned with troops ; as hotels, 
in which the emperors themselves were 
accommodated on their journeys; and as 
stations of relays of horses for couriers. 
The first of these was at Tolbiacum 
(Zulpich, the spot where Clovis and the 
Franks defeated the Alemanni), the last 
at Baedse Vicus (Bitburg). Accounts 
have been published of a vast subter- 
raneous aqueduct, extending all the 
way from Cologne to Treves, nearly 
parallel with the high road ; and it is 
certain that remains of such a structure 
are still visible at 10 or 12 different 
places between the two cities. Con- 
sidering that both these cities were 
situated on great rivers, well furnished 
with water, it is difficult to comprehend 
the use of so extensive a conduit. The 
writers of the middle ages, indeed, have 
not scrupled to afiirm that it was in- 
tended to convey a stream of wine be- 
tween them ! The most probable ex- 
planation of it is, that, instead of being 
one continuous water-course, it is no- 
thing more than a number of small un- 
connected aqueducts built at the same 
time, and probably with similar mate- 
rials, to supply different stations on the 
Boman road with water. 

4£ m. beyond Priim is Schonecken, 
a small village of 1538 inhab. The 



Rhenish Prussia. 



ROUTE 44. — SPA TO COBLENZ. 



313 



ruins of the ancient castle stand upon a 
commanding height. It originally be- 
longed to the family of the Counts of 
Viandcn, who possessed the advowson 
of the abbey of Priim. It was destroyed 
by the French in 1802 and sold by them 
for building materials. 

2^ Balesfeld. Between this" and Bit- 
burg the road does not pass a single 
village. The country is a tract of high 
land, with a rough climate and a barren 
soil, but abounding in woods, and fre- 
quently opening into beautiful views. 
The inhabitants are rude and unpolished, 
their houses and persons alike slovenly, 
in proportion as the land they inhabit 
is wild and remote. They are also ig- 
norant and superstitious ; and, not con- 
tented with keeping the usual holidays 
and festivals of the church, almost every 
village has a patron saint of its own, in 
whose honour festivals are celebrated. 
Each saint is supposed to have a pecu- 
liar province and to preside over some 
particular class of diseases. Thus St. 
Apollonia is invoked in cases of tooth- 
ache ; St. Blaize, to avert sore throats ; 
St. Lambert, to cure epilepsy ; St. Odi- 
lia, for sore eyes ; St. Lucia, for other 
complaints ; St. Gertrude is engaged to 
drive away rats ; and St. Wendelin is 
looked upon as the protector of cattle. 
On their anniversaries the people flock 
in crowds to the churches dedicated to 
these medical saints so rich in remedies, 
bringing offerings not only of money, 
but also of butter, eggs, pigs' heads, 
&c, which give the church the appear- 
ance of a market-place rather than a 
place of worship. Upon those days no 
work is done, and the evening concludes 
usually in drinking and gambling. 

2 Bitburg (Inn, Poste, not good), 
a town of 1700 inhab., anciently a Ro- 
man station, Bsedse Vicus. 

[About 10 m. W. of Bitburg, within 
the frontier of Luxemburg, but scarcely 
accessible by roads, stands Vianden, a 
castle exceeding in extent almost any 
on the Rhine, an ancient possession of 
the house of Nassau, seated on a rock 
above the river l'Our. It was in good 
preservation until within a few years, 
when it was put up for sale and un- 
roofed. It has a remarkable chapel in 
the form of a decagon. 17 m. S.W. of 
[N. g.] 



Bitburg is the ancient convent of Ech- 
ternach, also in Luxemburg. Its Church 
of St. Willibrod is a basilica of great 
antiquity. Its pillars, decorated with 
Corinthian capitals, may be relics of 
some Roman edifice.] 

At Fliessem, about 3 m. from Bitburg, 
on the road to Priim, and not more than 
\ a m. from the road, is a Roman 
villa. It contains very perfect and 
beautiful mosaics and a hypocaust in 
excellent preservation, curiously illus- 
trating the mode of heating buildings 
and apartments by the Romans. Two 
Roman milestones were dug up in a 
wood near Bitburg ; they stood on the 
ancient high road, a short distance from 
the new post-road. They bear the 
name of the Empr. Hadrian, in whose 
reign they were set up, and the dis- 
tance marked upon them was 22,000 
paces (M. P. XXII.) from Treves. Be- 
tween Bitburg and 

If Helenenberg there is not a single 
village ; but traces of the Roman road 
appear in sight from time to time. The 
very beautiful church at Helenenberg 
(called also the hospital) is now turned 
into a barn. Near Pallien, a village 
whose inhabitants live partly in caves 
cut out of the rocks, the road is carried 
over a deep ravine upon a bridge of a 
single arch, built by Napoleon (p. 304) ; 
and a passage has been hewn for the 
road itself in the solid rock, for a con- 
siderable distance, until it reaches the 
bank of the Moselle, immediately oppo- 
site the city of 

2| Treves (see Rte. 41). The view 
of Treves in descending is very strik- 
ing. 

ROUTE 44. 

SPA TO COBLENZ. 

20| Pruss. m. = 93f Eng. m. 

Two easy days by post — to Hilles- 
heim the 1st day. The engineering and 
making of the road is very good, and, 
passing through a volcanic country, it 
is chiefly formed with an excellent ma- 
terial—basalt. Though carried through 
a hilly country, the road is so well laid 
out, that 8 m. an hour on an aver- 
age may be made. The country offers 
very varied scenery — hiU and vale, 

P 



314 



ROUTE 45. — UPPER EIFEL. 



Sect. IV. 



beech, forests, heaths, corn, and grass- 
lands. 

A gradual ascent of nearly 4 m., 
shaded by an agreeable avenue of trees, 
leads out of the valley of Spa, passing- 
first the abandoned gaming-house and 
afterwards the mineral spring of Sau- 
veniere, situated in a clump of trees. 
Beyond this lies a high, level, and bare 
district of barren heath, resembling 
Dartmoor. At the village of Francour- 
champs the road to Malmedi, turning 
to the 1,, leaves that to Stavelot, in whose 
church is preserved the very curious 
Shrine (Chasse) of St. Remade. It is of 
copper gilt, ornamented with precious 
stones, mosaics, and statuettes of the 
Saint, the Virgin, and twelve Apostles, 
of silver gilt. It is probably a work of 
the 11th cent. 

About lg m. further runs the Prus- 
sian frontier, where baggage is slightly 
examined (§47). A fine view is gained 
on winding down the steep hill, of red 
sandstone, from the table-land into Mal- 
medi. 

2J Malmedi {Inn, Cheval Blanc, an 
humble inn), a small town of 4000 
inhab., famous for the manufacture of 
sole leather for shoes, there being 50 
tanneries here in active work. The 
hides are derived from South America. 
The Ardennes forest furnishes the best 
bark. The greater part of Germany is 
supplied from Malmedi and Stavelot, 
and many of the tanners are very 
wealthy. The fantastic houses and 
gardens, in and around the town, chiefly 
their property, are somewhat in the 
Dutch style. The most remarkable of 
them, Montbijou, lies on our road a 
little way out of the town. 

The road enters the great highway 
from Aix to Treves (Rte. 43), about 8 
m. from Malmedi, a little beyond 

2 Butgenbach (Bte. 43). 

2 Losheim, in p. 312. Here a road 
branches off to the E., passing under 
the ruined castle Kronenburg, to 

if Stadtkyll {Inn, Post), on the road 
from Aix-la-Chapelle to Coblenz by 
Mayence, which is traversed daily 
by a schnellpost, 

2 Hillesheim {Inn, Post ; comfort- 
able, -with civil people, who make high 
charges), a curious old town, surrounded 



by walls from which there are fine 
views. From a hill near it a fine view 
is obtained of the Eifel. 

The country hence to Kellberg and 
Mayen presents fine forests and patches 
of beech, and some oak, with hills of 
volcanic forms in all directions. 

3 Kellberg. — Inn, Post. A public 
carriage runs between the Ahr valley 
and Kellberg, meeting that between 
Coblenz and Losheim. Views of the 
castle of Nurberg. Through an inte- 
resting country, passing many dome- 
topped hills — from whose egg-shape 
perhaps the district is called Ei-fel (?) — 
and near to the picturesque castle Yir- 
neberg, to 

3 § Mayen (see Rte. 41 and 40), on 
the post-road to 

3i Coblenz (Bte. 37). 

ROUTE 45. 

THE UPPER EIFEL — PEuM TO GEROL- 
STEEST, DAUN, AND LUTZERATH. 

The country of the Eifel Gebirge is 
particularly interesting to the geolo- 
gist, from the decided traces of volcanic 
agency which it exhibits in its lava 
currents, and numerous extinct craters, 
many of them now filled with lakes or 
tarns. Apart from this consideration, 
the scenery of the Eifel has many fea- 
tures of no inconsiderable beauty and 
interest to induce the ordinary traveller 
to visit it. " The high ground consti- 
tuting this tract of country is much 
diversified with finely formed emi- 
nences, which are often conical or 
crater-shaped, and frequently wooded ; 
the valleys are remarkable sometimes 
for their bold and rocky sides, frequently 
capped with old castles, and contracting 
into narrow glens ; sometimes for their 
softer or wooded and verdant character ; 
above all, the great peculiarity of the 
district is the secluded, often much 
concealed, and singular ' maars ' or 
crater-lakes" — T. T. Meres in Eng- 
lish. 

The region of the Eifel is still the 
haunt of wolves and wild boars ; the 
former] not unfrequently approach hu- 
man habitations in the winter, and 
commit depredations on the flocks. 

The traveller visiting the Eifel from 



Rhenish Prussia. 



KOUTE 45. UPPER EIFEL. 



315 



Aix-la-ChapeUe or Spa will proceed 
by the roads described in Btes. 43 or 
44 as far as Priim (Bte. 43). A post- 
road runs hence to Bonn and Cologne. 
At Priim we may turn aside to enter 
upon the district of the Eifel. The 
roads throughout it are almost invari- 
ably bad, especially in wet weather, 
and the country hilly. 

Gerolstein^ where the tour of the Eifel 
properly begins, is about 10 m. from 
Priim. It has a tolerable inn, with 
good beds, kept by the Biirgermeister 
(Schreiber). It is a picturesque town 
on the Kyll, in a valley running between 
cliffs of limestone and dolomite, which, 
more particularly on the N. side, often 
present precipitous and striking escarp- 
ments, and peculiarly formed, and 
sometimes isolated, rocky eminences. 
Above the town are the ruins of a 
Castle. An interesting excursion, and 
one that may easily be accomplished in 
a forenoon, is to start by the footpath 
leading to the clear carbonated spring 
at the bottom of the valley, to cross the 
river Kyll, and ascend the hill opposite 
(to the N. of the town). On the 
summit is a perfectly formed dry crater 
called the Pfaffenkaule. The surface 
of the hollow is now cultivated, but 
traces of volcanic action are everywhere 
apparent. A little to the "W. is a 
stream of lava which divides into 2 
branches, and includes a hollow space 
termed the Hagelskaule. Near it, to 
the S., there is a considerable cavern, 
situated in the cliffs termed the Buchen- 
loch, formed by one of the numerous 
fissures in the strata, but probably en- 
larged by art. Thence the field may 
be crossed to the Ice grotto of Both, in 
order to see which lights and a guide 
may be procured at a farm-house and 
inn near the ch. of Both. In this 
cavern, which is a sort of natural ice- 
house, ice is always to be found during 
the summer, but it is said to disappear 
in winter. In returning to Gerolstein, 
the road may be varied by crossing the 
base of the Auberg, where innumerable 
fossil shells, corals, &c, are found 
strewed over the surface of the fields. 
Several persons in Gerolstein form col- 
lections of them for sale. — T. T. One 
of the curiosities of the neighbourhood 



is a mineral spring, called Brudeldreis, 
opposite Birresborn, on a hill within 
the Gerolstein wald. In the summer it 
dries up ; but if a cupful of water be 
thrown into the basin of rock from 
which it issues, a rattling is heard, and 
a jet of water spirted out. Dead bodies 
of birds and other small animals are 
often found near it, destroyed by having 
alighted within the range of the noxious 
vapour issuing from it (carbonic acid 
gas), but it is a fable that birds are 
killed in flying over it. Peasants stoop- 
ing down to drink are repulsed by the 
suffocating vapour, which, being heavier 
than the air, lies along the surface of 
the water, in a stratum more or less 
deep as the atmosphere is agitated or 
calm. 

The road from Gerolstein to Kirch- 
weiler (3 m.) passes the Casselburg, 
a picturesque stronghold, surmounting 
a mass of basaltic rock. Dochweiler, 
3 m, farther, is a village built of lava. 
Near it, to the N.W,, is a large basin- 
shaped crater, called Dreiser- Weiher, 
which, though now a meadow, was 
evidently at a former period filled with 
water, and is still remarkaole for its 
numerous mineral springs. Dreis, in 
the dialect of the Eifel, means a mineral 
spring. Olivine, a comparatively rare 
mineral, is found at the S. side of the 
crater, sometimes in masses 18 in. 
in diameter, and augite is also met 
with. Glassy felspar is found at Ho- 
henfels, near this. Some of the highest 
hills in the Eifel surround the Dreiser- 
Weiher. 

5 m. from Dochweiler lies Daun ; 
where Holzer's inn is good. The castle 
was the family residence and the birth- 
place of the Marshal who led the Aus- 
trian armies in the Seven Years' War, 
and defeated Frederick the Great at 
Kolin. On the summit of a steep ac- 
clivity near this lie 3 crater lakes, sepa- 
rated from each other by a narrow 
partition of slaty rock. The principal 
one, the Gmunden^Maar, is very beau- 
tiful. From Daun, a detour should be 
made by Stadfeld to Manderscheid, in 
order to see its old castle and the 
Meerfelder Maar, another considerable 
crater-lake in a perfectly circular basin, 
100 fathoms deep ; the water does not 

P2 



316 



EOUTE 46. — BINGEN TO TEEVES. 



Sect. IV. 



occupy the whole of it. Close to it 
rises the hill of Mosenberg, remarkable 
for its 4 volcanic cones of slag ; 3 of 
them are perfect ; 1 is broken down on 
the S. ; from one of them a current of 
basaltic lava descends into the valley. 

Gillenfeld (Burgermeister Zilchen's 
Inn), on the road to Lutzerath, passing 
Hedersdorf, is the next point of in- 
terest. Here is situated the Pulver- 
maar, one of the largest and most 
beautiful crater-lakes of the Eifel, 330 
ft. deep. On the way from Gillenfeld 
to Lutzerath is the village of Strotz- 
busch, built in the hollow of a crater- 
lake, and near it there are remains 
of another crater, formerly perhaps a 
lake. 

There is a post-road from Lutzerath 
to Daun, 2 \ Germ, m., but it does 
not pass through Gillenfeld or Strotz- 
busch ; and from Daun through Doch- 
weiler to Hillesheim, 2£ Germ. m. 
Lutzerath is distant from Daun, by the 
direct road, about 12 Eng. m. "We 
have now entered upon Route 41 . 

KOUTE 46. 

BINGEN TO TREVES. 

16J Pruss. m. = 76 Eng. m. 

Schnellpost daily in 14J h. It sets 
out from the post-house on the 1. 
bank of the Nahe, close to Bingen 
bridge. The chief part of this road is 
excellent, though hilly; it is carried 
out of the valley of the Nahe by well- 
constructed zigzags, and at one point, 
where seats have been erected, com- 
mands a charming view. 

There is considerable beauty in the 
gorge leading down to the village of 

lj Stromberg, with the ruins of 
Castle Goldenfels, which was bravely 
defended against the French, 1793, by 
the Prussian Lieut, v. Gauvain, with 
35 men. A monument commemorates 
tbe event. 

3 Simmern(7>m, Post), on the Hunds- 
riick, or Hunsriick. 

We follow the line of the old Roman 
road as far as Kirchberg. 

2| Buchenbeuem. From this to 
Berncastel the road is very hilly, run- 
ning over the high table-land of the 



Hundsrxick (Dog's Back) which ex- 
tends between the Rhine, Moselle, and 
Nahe. For a considerable distance 
neither house nor human being is to be 
seen. The country is a bleak uncul- 
tivated waste of moor and moss, with 
forest interspersed. Here and there a 
distant view over hills and valleys ap- 
pears. "We again follow the line of the 
old Roman road, called in the country 
Steinstrasse. By the side of it is seen 
a small truncated tower (Stumpfer 
Thurm), said to be (?) a Roman work. 
It is supposed indeed, that the Ro- 
man station Belginum, or Tabernse, 
may have stood upon this spot. A 
little farther on, the road descends 
through a narrow and winding ravine 
(the Tiefenbacherthal), whose sides, 
formed of ragged slate rocks, are ex- 
ceedingly picturesque, in many places 
overhanging the road, and sprinkled 
over with trees and underwood. Con- 
siderable mines have been driven into 
these rocks, and roofing slate is obtained 
from them. Many of the entrances 
to them open close upon the road- 
side. At the bottom of this steep de- 
scent lies 

3^ Berncastel, on the Moselle. — /«», 
Three Kings. Page 306. 

The Moselle is here passed by a ferry- 
boat ; a good road leads to 

3^ Hetzerath, on the high road from 
Coblenz to Treves. 

2;| Treves. Route 41. 

ROUTE 47. 



SIEGBURG AND LIMBURG. 

23f Germ. m. = 105 Eng. m. 

A macadamised post-road, 1 j Germ, 
m. shorter than that by Coblenz. In 
wet or foggy weather it is preferable 
to that by the Rhine ; no inn between 
Siegburg and Limbing. Schnellpost 
daily in 23 hrs. 

3^ Siegburg (/»», Star, tolerable), 
a town of 2500 inhab., on the Sieg, 
about 4 m. above its junction with the 
Rhine. Upon the rock of St. Michael. 
in a singularly beautiful situation, im- 
mediately overhanging the town, stands 
the ancient Benedictine Abbey, founded 



Mhen. Prussia, route 47. — cologne to frankfurt. 



31' 



in 1060 by Archbishop Hanno, who is 
buried within the fine Church. It is 
now a Lunatic Asylum. A new road 
runs to Bonn, crossing the Sieg by a 
ferry some way below Siegburg, and 
the 'Rhine by the flying bridge. 

2 Uckerath. 

If Weyerbusch. 

1 Altenkirchen. Here the brave 
French General Marceau (the Bayard 
of the republic) received his death 
wound in an action with the Austrians 
under the Archduke Charles. See p. 
268. 



1 Wahlerod or Wahlroth, the first 
station in the territory of Nassau. 

2 Freilingen. 1 Country high and 
2 Wallmeroth. J woody (the skirt 

of the Westerwald) as you approach 
the Lahn. 

2 Limburg (7wi, Post), in Rte. 96. 
Nieder-Selters, whence the celebrated 

water is obtained, is passed on this 
stage ; it is described under the head 
Schwalbach, in Rte. 95. 

3 Wurges. 

3 Konigstein, Rte. 97. 

2^ Frankfurt a. m., Rte. 95. 



318 



ROUTE 56. — LONDON TO HAMBURG. 



Sect. V. 



SECTION V. 

PRUSSIA, continued.— MECKLENBURG— HANWER— BRUNSWICK- 
HESSE CASSEL— THE HANSE TOWNS, &c. 



ROUTE PAGE 

56. London to Hamburg .... 318 

57. Hamburg to Lubeck and Tra- 

vemunde 324 

58. Hamburg to Stralsund, by 

Schwerin, Dobberan, and Ros- 
tock 327 

59. Hamburg to Hanover, Bruns- 

wick, or Hildesbeim — Rail. 329 

60. Hamburg to Bremen and 

Oldenburg 330 

61. Hamburg to Berlin — Rail . 330 

62. Berlin to Magdeburg, by 

Potsdam and Brandenburg— 
Rail. . 349 

63. Berlin to Leipzig, by Witten- 

burg, Kothen, Halle, Worlitz, 
and Dessau — Rail . . .353 

64. Magdeburg to Leipzig by Ko- 

. tben— Rail 358 

65. Berlin to Dresden — Rail . . 358 

66. Cologne to Berlin, by Minden, 

Hanover, Brunswick, and 
Magdeburg — Rail . . .358 

67. Diisseldorf to Berlin, by El- 



ROUTE PAGE 

berfeld, Cassel, Eisleben, and 
Halle 367 

68. Cologne to Cassel and Bruns- 

wick, by Paderbom . . . 370 

69. Diisseldorf to Bremen, by 

Munster 372 

69 a. Paderbom to Hanover . .376 

70. Frankfurt-a.-M. to Cassel . . 378 

71. Cassel to Hanover, by Pyr- 

mont ' 382 

72. Cassel to Hanover, by Got- 

tingen 384 

72 a. Hanover to Bremen — Rail . 386 

73. The Harz. — Gottingen to 

Clausthal ; Goslar, tbe B roc- 
ken, tbe Eosstrappe, tbe 
Valley of tbe Bode, and 
Alexisbad 386 

74. The Harz. — Nordbausen to 

Magdeburg 394 

74 a. Descent of tbe Weser. — 

Cassel to Bremen . . .396 
74 6. Wittenberge to Magdeburg — 

Rail 398 



ROUTE 56. 

LONDON TO HAMBURG. 

Steam-boats start from London and 
from Hamburg Wednesday and Satur- 
day mornings : tbey set off so early in 
tbe morning tbat it is advisable to sleep 
on board tbe nigbt before. Tbe average 
passage is about 52 b., tbougb it some- 
times takes 60 or 70. 

About 25 m. from tbe mouth of tbe 
Elbe lies the island of Heligoland 
(Germ. Helgoland), on which it is sup- 
posed stood the celebrated temple of the 
Erisic god Fosete (probably the same 



as the Scandinavian god of justice 
Forseti), destroyed by St. Ludger in the 
8th cent, on the conversion of the 
Frisians to Christianity. The temple 
of Hertha, mentioned by Tacitus, is 
also supposed by some to have been in 
this island, but by others, and with 
more probability, in the island of Riigen 
(see p. 403). Heligoland was ceded to 
Great Britain in 1807, and is now much 
frequented by the Germans for sea- 
bathing. Its pop. amounts to 3000. At 
the time when Napoleon had excluded 
England from the continent it was 
important as a war-station; and from 



B 



HAMBTUM© . 



j Mile 



1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

lO 

II 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

*18 



References 

S? Peter E c 

SfMdiolas E ci 

Sf Michael... C cl 

Borse-Excluxnge-.-'E. d 

S\ Catherine- E d 

StJacobi. 1" c 

Johanneunv. E d 

Boding s Museum F d 

Stadthazis D d 

Great Hospital G a 

Oiphan Asylum, D e 

Klopstocks house D c 

Theatre D b 

Jlialia TTieatre E c 

Elbe Pavilion, B e 

JSfeiv fost Office D c 

Engl. Episcopal Ch....Q e 
ELhhbhe, B e 




^0„ 




VJ-&C.Va]kcr. 



Prussia. route 56. — cuxhaven. altona. Hamburg. 



319 



its situation near the mouths of the 
rivers Elbe and "Weser, it then he- 
came a considerable smuggling depot. 
Its male inhabitants are chiefly fisher- 
men, sailors, and pilots. The destruc- 
tion of its shores by the sea has been 
much exaggerated. It has been recently 
shown that the well-known map of 
Heligoland, by Meyer, according to 
which the island contained 9 parishes, 
is entirely a work of imagination. On 
comparing a map made in 1793 by the 
Danish engineer "Wessel, with the 
measiuements of M. "Wiebel, recently 
made, it appeared that " the co-efficient 
of destruction in a century, for the whole 
circumference, was not more than 3 ft." 
It appears also that in the time of Adam 
of Bremen, whose description is extant, 
and of Charlemagne, the island was only 
a little larger than at present. See Geo). 
Journal, vol. iv., pt. 2, p. 32. 

1. At the mouth of the Elbe stand 
the lighthouse and town of Cuxhaven, 
on a small angle of territory belonging 
to Hamburg. Vessels lie at anchor off 
this place waiting for favourable winds. 
It is a watering-place frequented by 
the inhabitants of Hamburg for sea- 
bathing. In winter, when the Elbe is 
frozen over, it is necessary to proceed 
from Hamburg by land to meet the 
steamers at Cuxhaven, a tedious and 
expensive journey, crossing the Elbe to 
Harburg, and descending its 1. bank. 

Beyond Cuxhaven, the 1. bank of the 
Elbe belongs to Hanover. Opposite to 
Stade, an Hanoverian sloop of war is 
stationed to enforce the toll levied by 
Hanover in virtue of an ancient im- 
perial grant on vessels and cargoes 
passing up the Elbe. 

The land on the rt. bank is the ter- 
ritory of the Duchy of Holstein, belong- 
ing to Denmark; it rises in gentle 
slopes, covered, for some distance be- 
low Hamburg, with wood, interspersed 
with handsome villas and gardens be- 
longing to opulent merchants. On this 
side lies the small town of Glilckstadt, 
with 6000 inhab., once a strong fortress, 
besieged in vain by Tilly and Torsten- 
son, connected with Altona by Bailway. 
Higher up, the little fishing village of 
Blankenese, with its houses scattered 
along the slope and among the trees one 



above another, is passed ; and above it, 
the town of 

rt. Altona, which joins Hamburg, 
and from the river seems to form a part 
of it, though within the Danish terri- 
tory. It has risen to great mercantile 
prosperity, perhaps to the prejudice of 
its neighbour, so that the Hamburgers 
say that its name agrees with its situa- 
tion, as it is AU-zu-nah (All too near) . 
In commercial respects it is a perfectly 
free town, no duties being levied, and 
the custom-house line for Holstein runs 
outside of it. It is the most commer- 
cial and populous town in Denmark 
next to Copenhagen, having 27,000 in- 
hab. A Railroad runs from Altona to 
Kiel on the Baltic. (See Handbook 
for N. Europe, Denmark, &c.) 

A handsome new Quay has been con- 
structed at Hamburg along the Elbe, 
and the harbour has been deepened, but 
passengers by sea-going steamers usually 
embark and disembark in boats to and 
from the vessel. 

rt. Hamburg. — Inns : Streit's hotel, 
very comfortable, the best — the land- 
lady is English ; Hotel St. Petersburg, 
well situated ; Hotel de Russie ; Kron- 
prinz ; Victoria Hotel ; Alster Hotel ; 
Hotel de TEurope. These are on the 
old and new Jungfernstieg and the 
Alsterdamm. Charges : bed and din- 
ner 24 sch. each, breakfast 12 sch., ^ a 
bottle of wine 16 sch. 

Hamburg is situated about 80 m. 
from the mouth of the Elbe, at the 
junction of a small stream called the 
Alster with the Elbe. Being a Free 
Town, the duties levied are so small 
that travellers are not bothered with 
any Custom-house examination on 
landing, but passports are sometimes 
demanded. Its population is reckoned 



at 150,000. 



There are about 10,000 



Jews and 2000 Roman Catholics. 
The Current Coins are — 





English. Pruss. 




5. d. S. gr. 


The Mark Courant 


= 1 2£=12± 


Double Mark 


-2 5 


Pieces of 8 Schillings 


= 7 


4 Sch. 


= 3£ 



1 Sch. (copper) nearly =01 
Rix dollar (specie) =47 

Mark Banco (imaginary) = 1 5;| ±s 1 5 




TubUrheti by John Moray Albemarle Street London 184$. 



'e^V^ 1 ^*' 



320 



ROUTE 56. — HAMBURG. 



Sect. V. 



Most of these coins are so much worn 
that care is required in taking them : 
even the natives are sometimes puzzled 
to know what they are. Many of them 
are valueless out of Hamburg. The 
landlords at the hotels will generally 
change English money. The regular 
money-changers are very extortionate. 
The English sovereign usually realises 
17 marks 4sch., and is sometimes taken 
in payment for 17 m. 8 sch. 

Money accounts are kept in marks 
and schillings ;. there are 1 6 schillings 
in a mark. The marc banco and rix 
dollar banco are imaginary coins. The 
mark banco is to the current mark as 
20 to 16. The piece of f dollar Kas- 
sengeld is the most common, and is 
worth 31 schillings currency. There 
are also pieces of 2 schillings, % sch. 
(called a Sechsling), ~ sch. (Dreiling). 
The Pruss. dollar goes for 40 sch. 
1 Danish mark == 5 schillings. Piece 
of 8 Pdgsbank skillings == 2J sch. 

Hamburg is one of the four remain- 
ing Free Towns, and is chiefly remark- 
able as the first trading seaport of 
Germany. It is intersected by canals, 
called Fleethen (Fleet ditches?), and 
in this respect, in the antiquated ap- 
pearance of its houses, and in the trees 
growing in its streets, bears a resem- 
blance, in the old part of the town, to 
the towns of Holland. During the last 
4 years, on an average 4000 vessels 
entered. The Elbe is navigable thus 
far for ships of considerable burden, 
which can enter the harbour and trans- 
fer their cargoes in barges to the mer- 
chants' doors, whose warehouses and 
dwellings generally adjoin. There are 
no docks. Much banking and funding 
business is done here ; besides which it 
is the depot for a large part of the 
exports and imports of the North of 
Europe. The sugar refineries have di- 
minished of late. 

By the dreadful fire of 1842 Ham- 
burg sustained a calamity unequalled in 
extent except by the fire of London. 
The conflagration broke out in the 
Deichstrasse, near the Elbe, on Thurs- 
day, May 5, from what cause is un- 
known, and raged until the following 
Sunday in spite of all efforts to oppose 
it ; widening as it advanced until it had 



involved in destruction 2 sides of the 
Alster Basin, levelling almost all the 
buildings, public and private, over an 
area of many acres, nearly in the form 
of a triangle, sweeping down 1749 
houses, 61 streets, besides courts and 
alleys, and even crossing the broad 
canal of the Alster. The attempts made 
to arrest the flames, when the engines 
had proved useless, were, first to pull 
down the houses, but in unroofing them 
the timbers and rafters were laid open, 
and more readily caught fire from the 
sparks lodging in them. Artillery was 
next employed to batter them down, 
but the balls only made holes in the 
walls, and passed through. Finally, 
the plan of blowing them up with gun- 
powder was resorted to : and this use- 
ful but dangerous task was executed by 
the English engineer Lindley, who, for- 
tunately for the town, was present at 
the time, and understood the proper 
mode of proceeding. The first check 
was given to the fire by blowing up the 
Rathhaus and Bank, in whose cellars 
were deposited a vast treasure in silver 
bars. The churches of St. Nicholas, St. 
Peter, and St. Gertrude were speedily 
consumed ; the New Exchange, though 
surrounded by the flames, escaped al- 
most by a miracle uninjured. The 
sympathy caused by this event in all 
parts of the globe was proved by the 
voluntary subscriptions raised for the 
sufferers, amounting to near 400,000/., 
of which England contributed 41,000/. 
Besides this, immense sums were raised 
by loan, so that Hamburg has now the 
largest national debt, in proportion to 
its population, of any continental state, 
and is in this respect nearly on a par 
with Great Britain. 

Hamburg has profited to a certain 
extent by the calamity in the improve- 
ments introduced in laying out the new 
buildings, the widening of streets, the 
construction of sewers, and the filling 
up of some of the stagnant fleeths or 
ditches. A new and handsome Rathhaus 
is to be built on one side of a new 
square fronting the Borse. The finest 
of the new buudings are near the Alster. 
Many of them are of vast extent, and 
have been constructed at an enormous 
cost. The foundations arc mostly of 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 56. — HAMBURG. 



321 



granite — the superstructure of brick 
and stucco. The designs show great 
variety, and sometimes beauty. The 
Arcade opening out of the Jungfernstieg 
is deserving of attention for its extent 
and beauty. Other improvements con- 
sist in conducting the drains to the 
Elbe without allowing them to enter 
the canals, and in causing the water of 
the Alster basin to flow through the 
town canals, and in the conversion into 
a new quarter of the town of a low 
marshy tract on the rt. bank of the Elbe 
called Hammerbrook. It has been inter- 
sected by canals, the water pumped out 
by a steam-engine, the surface raised 
4 ft. over a space of an English square 
m. by the rubbish arising from the fire ; 
thus turning to account what would 
otherwise have been an encumbrance ; 
and the whole is being covered with 
streets and warehouses. 

The objects chiefly calculated to at- 
tract a stranger's attention are, first, the 
Costumes seen in the streets of Ham- 
burg ; they are not a little singular. 
Servant-girls, housemaids, and cooks, 
according to the custom of the place, 
rarely appear in public except in the 
gayest attire ; with lace caps, long kid 
gloves, and a splendid shawl. The last 
article is elegantly arranged under the 
arm, so as to conceal a basket shaped 
like a child's coffin, containing clothes, 
butter or cheese, or other articles pur- 
chased at market, as the case may be. 
The peasants who frequent the market 
wear a very picturesque attire ;. they are 
chiefly natives of a part of the Ham- 
burg territory bordering on the Elbe, 
called Vierland, which is principally 
laid out in gardens, and supplies the 
market with vegetables. The costume 
of some of the other peasant women of 
the neighbourhood is likewise pictu- 
resque : they are distinguished by a 
small cap at the back of the head, 
covered with gold or silver embroidery, 
and a gaily decorated boddice.. 

Funeral processions in Hamburg are 
not composed of friends of the deceased, 
but of hired mourners, called Reiten 
Diener, dressed in black, with plaited 
ruffs round their necks, curled and 
powdered wigs, short Spanish cloaks, 
and swords. The same persons, whose 



number is limited to 16, attend at mar- 
riage-festivals, and form also a sort of 
body-guard to the magistrates. Their 
situations were formerly purchased at a 
high price, in consideration of the per- 
quisites and fees attached to them. 
"Upon the death of a burgomaster or other 
personage of importance in the town, the 
town trumpeter, a civic officer, is set to 
blow a dirge from one of the steeples. 

The churches have little architectural 
beauty, excepting St. Nicholas, in the 
Hopfenmarkt, a noble modern Gothic 
structure, with a tower and spire at the 
W. end, of open work, which will be a 
beautiful building. It is designed by the 
English architect G. G. Scott, who built 
Camberwell Ch. St. Peter's has also 
been rebuilt, and is a fine lofty gothic 
church. St. Michael's has one of the 
loftiest steeples in Europe, 456. ft., high, 
about 100 ft. higher than St. Paul's in 
London (34-0 ft.), from which the town 
and the Elbe, nearly as far as the sea, 
Holstein on the N\, and Hanover on 
the S., present themselves advanta- 
geously to view. It is also the station 
of the fire-watch (§ 43). 

The Borse [Exchange), a fine build- 
ing on the Adolphs Platz, is well de- 
signed.. It forms a noble hall 48 paces 
by 26, exclusive of the surrounding co- 
lonnade. On the first floor are reading- 
rooms, offices, &c, corresponding with 
Lloyd's in London, and called the Bdr- 
senhalle. A stranger can be introduced 
to read the papers. It is also the seat 
of the Commercium, or Board of Trade, 
of the Chamber of Commerce (ffan- 
delsgerichf), presided over by 2 lawyers 
and 9 merchants as judges* Change 
commences at 1 o'clock, and it is worth 
while to see the crowd that comes 
thronging in at that hour. At this 
time the smartest and prettiest of the 
Vierlander flower-girls may be seen 
about the Borse. 

The Schulgeb'dude, erected 1834 on 
the site of the ancient Dom, includes 
the Johanneum, a college under the care 
of excellent professors, where a good 
classical and commercial education is 
given for 120 marks per annum. The 
Town Library y consisting of about 
200,000 vols., and many curious MSS.,, 
has been removed to this building, 

r3 



322 



ROUTE 56. — HAMBURG. JUNGFERNSTIEG. 



Sect. V. 



The charitable institutions of Ham- 
burg are on a very munificent scale. 
The Orphan Asylum (Waisenhaus) pro- 
vides for 600 children, who are received 
as infants, reared, educated, and bound 
apprentices to some useful trade. The 
Great Hospital (Krankenhaus), in the 
suburb of St. George, is capable of con- 
taining from 4000 to 5000 sick, The 
yearly cost of supporting this admirable 
institution is nearly 1 7,000?. Its utility 
is not confined to the poor alone, as 
even persons of the higher classes resort 
to the hospital to avail themselves of 
the advantages of the excellent medical 
treatment which they may here obtain. 
Such patients are admitted as lodgers, 
on payment of a sum varying from 8c?. 
to 8s. a day. The Chapel contains a 
painting by Overbech. The subject is 
Christ's Agony in the Garden, with the 
3 disciples sleeping below. The arr 
rangement and attitudes are Giottesque, 
the colour thick and low. 

The House in which Klopstocli the 
poet lived 30 years (1774-1803), and 
died, is No. 27 in the Konigstrasse. 

The old and new Jung fernst leg (Mai- 
den's "Walk) and the Alsterdamm are 
broad walks around the sides of a basin 
of water formed by damming up the 
small river Alster, Here is the fashion- 
able promenade, especially resorted to 
in the summer evenings, when the sur- 
face of the water is covered with gaily 
painted boats filled with water parties. 
It is flanked on 3 sides by handsome 
rows of new houses, and has a broad 
terrace all round its margin. At the 
waterside are the two most frequented 
cafes in the town, called Pavilions. 
There are floating baths on the Alster. 

The Stadt Theater is one of the 
largest in Germany, and the perform- 
ances and music generally very good. 
The play begins at 6 J and usually ends 
before 10. 

The Thalia Theater, Pferde Markt, 
is chiefly famed for comic pieces, and 
is a popular resort. 

The public ball-rooms in .and about 
the town, though not frequented by the 
most respectable classes, being often the 
resort of low company, deserve to be 
looked at as one of the peculiarities of 
the place. The best are the Elbe 



Pavilion, and the Schweitzer Pavilion. 
Some of the cellars for suppers, beer, 
&c, are worth a visit. 

The Hamburg hung beef is cele- 
brated. 

Hamburg had once the misfortune 
to be a fortified town, and in conse- 
quence was subjected to the horrors of 
a siege from the French, and was twice 
occupied by their armies, who, under 
Davoust, in 1813, exercised the most 
cruel severities and atrocities upon the 
inhabitants ; many hundreds of whom, 
men, women, and children, were driven 
out of the town to perish. 

The Ramparts no longer exist, being 
levelled and converted into delightful 
boulevards or gardens, neatly laid out, 
which extend nearly round the town, 
and between the two Alster basins. 
The most pleasing view of the town 
and river, the shipping and opposite 
shore of the Elbe, presents itself from 
the eminence, at the extremity of these 
walks nearest to Altona, called the 
Elbhohe, or Stintfang. 

In some parts of the town a portion 
of the poorer inhabitants live in cellars 
under the houses. In winter, and after 
a prevalence of "W. winds, which drive 
the waters of the German Ocean into 
the mouth of the Elbe, the tides rise to 
a great height (sometimes 20 ft.), some- 
times inundating the streets near the 
river. The tenants of these cellars are 
then driven from their habitations by 
the water, which keeps possession of 
them for days, leaving them filled with 
ooze, and in a most unhealthy condition 
from the moisture. The upper part of 
the house is let under condition that 
the Occupiers of the cellars are to re- 
ceive shelter at such seasons of cala- 
mity. 

Outside the Damm Gate, not far 
from the Jungfemstieg, is the public 
Cemetery, which deserves a visit, as ex- 
hibiting the customs and usages of 
Germany with regard to the resting- 
place of the dead (§ 45). 

The merchants of Hamburg are cele- 
brated for their hospitality aud the 
goodness of their dinners, as all stran- 
gers can testify who are well introduced. 
It is customary to give vails to servants 
in private houses ; — they expect at least 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 56. — HAMBURG. 



323 



two marks from each visitor. The 
English residents here are very nume- 
rous, and their language is almost uni- 
versally understood even hy the Ger- 
mans. They have recently erected, 
with partial aid from the British Go- 
vernment, a Church for themselves, A 
British Charge d' Affaires and Consul 
General and Vice-Consul reside here. 
Beading Rooms — At Perthes, Besser, and 
Maukes, 12 Jungfernstieg, more than 
150 newspapers and journals are taken 
in. Entrance for a week, 1 mark. The 
best shops are upon the S„ side of the 
Jungfernstieg, and the adjoining street 
Neuer Wall, 

Post Office. — Many foreign states have 
separate post-offices at Hamburg. The 
City post, the Thurn and Taxis, and 
Hanoverian post-offices, are in a large 
building with a lofty tower, in the Post- 
strasse ; the Prussian is in the Ganse- 
niarkt; the Danish and Mecklenburg 
in the Grosse Bleichen ; and the Nor- 
wegian and Swedish in the Grosse 
Theaterstrasse. The City post is the 
office for letters to and from England. 

Consuls. — All the states of the new 
and old world are represented here. 
The British, United States, and most of 
the other Consulate Offices, are near 
the harbour. Travellers not already 
provided with a vise' to their passports 
for the countries they intend to visit had 
better procure them here. 

Hackney-coaches, called Droskies, ply 
for hire in all the principal thorough- 
fares of the town. They are good and 
cheap. Any distance within the town 
costs about 8c7., and if hired by the 
hour the charge is Is. 6c?. 

The gates of Hamburg are shut every 
evening at dusk, and a toll, increasing 
progressively every hour till 1 2, is de- 
manded, after which persons may pass 
and repass all through the night, upon 
payment of 1 mark each. All eatables 
brought into the town are taxed at the 
gates, and even private carriages are 
sometimes searched, and game found in 
them has been seized. 

Omnibuses ply through the town in 
various directions, to Altona and Bain- 
ville's garden. 

Environs. — It is a very pleasant drive 
to descend the rt. bank of the Elbe 



from Altona to Blankenesc. The slopes 
bordering on the river are studded with 
country seats of merchants, and possess 
considerable natural beauty. Between 
Hamburg and Altona runs a narrow 
strip of suburb called Vorstadt St. Pauli, 
partly occupied by low taverns and 
dancing-rooms : in fact, a sort of "VVap- 
ping, extending to the gate of Altona, 
where the uniform of the sentinel and 
the Danish coat of arms mark the fron- 
tier of Holstein. At the further end of 
Altona is the suburb of Ottensen, where 
the brave Duke of Brunswick died, in 
1806, from the wound he had received 
in the battle of Jena.. In the church- 
yard, by the side of the road, and under 
an umbrageous elm, is The Tomb of 
Klopstock, author of the " Messiah." 
Here is also a monument to the 1138 
Hamburgers who perished in 1813-14, 
during the siege and occupation of 
Hamburg by the French,, and are in- 
terred here in one common grave — the 
subject of a pretty poem by Biickert. 
Farther on is Bainville's Tavern and 
garden, overlooking the Elbe.. The 
house itself was inhabited successively 
by Dumouriez and Bourrienne. The 
view is fine, the cuisine very tolerable, 
and in fine summer afternoons very 
respectable company repair hither to 
dine or take coffee. Booth's Nursery 
Gardens, near Flottbeck, contain many 
choice and rare flowers. The amateur 
of horticulture will do wisely in pur- 
chasing seeds of stocks, wall-flowers, 
&c, which are brought to singular per- 
fection here.. At Blankenesc, about 6 
m. from Hamburg, Mr. Bauer's Plea- 
sure Grounds^ laid out in the Dutch 
taste, thrown open to the public on 
Thursdays and Sundays, are a common 
resort of the cockneys of Hamburg. 

In an opposite direction, about 3 m. 
NJE. from Hamburg, lies the Holstein 
village of Wandsbeck, in a very pretty 
situation. Every Sunday and holiday 
it overflows with visitors from Ham- 
burg of all classes, who repair hither to 
walk in the gardens of the Schloss, and 
enjoy the amusements of waltzing and 
music. Tycho Brahe the astronomer 
lived in the chateau, and Voss the poet 
also resided here. In the churchyard 
is the grave of Claudius. 



324 



ROUTE 57. — HAMBURG TO LUBECK. 



Sect.V. 



Steamboats across the Elbe to Har- 
burg 8 times a day. (Rte. 59.) To 
Amsterdam every 5 days, in 30 or 40 
hours ; — to London, Tuesday and Fri- 
day at night : in winter, they start from 
Cuxhaven ; — to Hull, 4 times a week, 
average passage 42 hours ; — to Havre, 



once a week, in 50 or 60 hrs. 



-to 



Cuxhaven, 4 times a week, in 6 or 8 hrs.; 
— to Heligoland, 2 or 3 times a week. 

Schnellposts daily to Bremen — to 
Lubeck twice a day — by rail to Biichen 
Stat. 

Railroads to Berlin (Route 61) ; — to 
Kiel (from Altona) (see Handbook 
of Northern Europe) ; — to Hanover 
(Rte. 59). Care should be taken to 
allow plenty of time for reaching the 
station of the Kiel' railway, which is a 
considerable distance from Hamburg, 
and the droskies are very slow and un- 
certain conveyances. Travellers are 
conveyed by steamer to the station at 
Harburg for the Hanover line. 

ROUTE 57. 

HAMBURG TO LUBECK AND TRAVEMUNDE. 

There is a circuitous macadamized 
high-road to Lubeck by Ahrensburg 
and Oldeslohe, 

9i Germ, m. == 46 Eng. m. 

It lies through a pleasant and fer- 
tile country. The territory of Ham- 
burg ends at Wandsbeck. 

3 Ahrensburg in Holstein. 

3 Oldeslohe on the Trave : salt-works. 

A kind of long cart, called Stuhl- 
wagen, is much used in this country 
upon the sandy cross roads. The body 
is made of wicker-work, so that it 
bends and yields to the ups and downs 
of the road. The seats are suspended 
across it, but, as it is not hung on 
springs, the jolting is intolerable, and 
the best plan is to fill the bottom with 
hay, upon which the traveller may re- 
cline more at his ease. 

The quickest way to Lubeck is to 
follow the Berlin railway as far as 
Biichen Stat. (Rte. 61), whence a 
branch railway is carried up along the 
1. bank of the Stecknitz, passing Molln 
(where Till Eulenspiegel is reported to 
have breathed his last, 1350, and his 
grave is shown), and approaching Ratze- 



burg, once a bishop's see, situated jm 
an island in the midst of the lake of 
Ratzeburg. 

The territory belonging to Lubeck 
begins about 6 m. from its walls : it 
is limited, comprehending altogether 
53,000 inhab., and is bounded by Hol- 
stein, Lauenburg, and Mecklenburg. 

3^ Lubeck. — Inns ; Stadt Hamburg ; 
very good : bed, 1 mark 8 schillings ; 
breakfast, 12 schill. ; dinner, with bottle 
of wine and coffee, 2 marks 12 sch. ; — 
H. du Nord, also very good: table-d'hote 
at 3 o'clock, 1 mark 8 sch.; — Fiinf 
Thiirme (5 towers); — Stadt London. 

Money. Accounts are kept in marks 
courant and schillings as at Hamburg, 
except banking accounts, which are in 
marks banco, The small current coin 
is as much worn as at Hamburg, and 
is valueless out of Lubeck. 

The Eree Hanse Town of Lubeck is 
built on a ridge between the rivers 
Trave and "Wackenitz, which entirely 
siu-round its walls, and has a population 
of 26,000 souls ; including its surround- 
ing teiTitory, 53,000. Lubeck was 
built by the Emperor Conrad, a.d. 
1066. It was repeatedly destroyed by 
the Danes. In the commencement of 
the 13th cent, it was declared a free 
Imperial city by the Emp. Frederick 
II. At a later period it entered into, 
and subsequently became the most con- 
siderable- of the towns forming the 
Hanseatic League, and as such de- 
served the name of the Carthage of the 
North. For full 4 centuries, from 1260 
to 1669, Lubeck maintained that pro- 
minent position, the seat of the govern- 
ment of the Confederation, the* re- 
pository of its archives, and the station 
of its fleet, to the command of which 
sbe was entitled to appoint one of her 
own citizens. From the dissolution of 
the League, however, her importance 
diminished, and her commerce decayed, 
until she dwindled into the existing 
state of insignificance, from which she 
is not likely soon to emerge, and which 
is at once made evident to the stranger 
by the deserted and grass-grown streets 
and the numerous empty houses. 

After the fatal defeat of Jena (1806), 
Bliicher, retreating with the wreck of 
the Prussian army, and hotly pursued 



'russia. 



ROUTE 57. — LUBECK. THE DOM. 



325 



by 3 French generals, Bernaclotte, 
Soult, and Murat, threw himself into 
this unfortunate town, in spite of the 
remonstrances of its senate and citizens, 
and thereby involved it in his own 
ruin. A bloody engagement com- 
menced outside the walls, but con- 
tinued through the streets, and ended 
in the expulsion of the Prussians, and 
in the sacking and pillage of Liibeck for 
3 days. The French army of 75,000 
men was long quartered upon the town 
to complete its ruin and misery. 

It is an interesting town, prettily 
situated. Its haven, enlivened by ship- 
ping, is bounded on one side by the 
quay and its picturesque or grotesque 
old houses and magazines, and on the 
other side by the lofty Ramparts, pro- 
bably some of the largest mounds of 
earth that were ever made ; planted 
with avenues and laid out with walks 
and drives, from which the eye looks 
down on the water and shipping. Lii- 
beck is one of the most picturesque old 
towns in Germany, and deserves more 
attention than is usually given to it by 
travellers. In external appearance its 
buildings have undergone little change 
since the 1 5th cent. Its houses, dis- 
tinguished by their quaint gables, and 
often by the splendour of their archi- 
tecture, its feudal gates, its Gothic 
churches, and its venerable Eathhaus, 
all speak of the period of its prosperity 
as an imperial free city. 

Principal Buildings : — The Bom or 
Cathedral, at the S. end of the town 
(begun 1170, and finished, after inter- 
ruptions, 1341), contains, in its side 
chapels, the monuments of many of the 
patrician families of Liibeck, and, in the 
choir, the tombs of numerous bishops 
and canons. The screen of the choir 
is perhaps one of the finest existing 
specimens of wood carving of the early 
German school, about the period of 
Lucas Cranach. The figures are the 
size of life, full of expression, and ad- 
mirably executed. But the finest work 
of art in Liibeck is in one of the cha- 
pels in the N. aisle. It is an altar- 
piece with wings, covered with a double 
set of shutters. Outside the outer pair 
the Annunciation is represented in gri- 
saille. The drawing is more free and 



graceful in this than in the coloured 
pictures. The first pair of shutters 
being opened, St. Blaize, St. John, St. 
Jerome, and St. JEgidius are seen — 
noble and grave figures, betraying some 
timidity in drawing, but with heads full 
of character and individuality. These 
figures are executed in the most finished 
manner, and with the richest colours. 
When the second pair of shutters is 
opened, the Pictures of the Passion are 
seen in 3 compartments, each having a 
principal subject ; but Memling, as 
was usual with the early masters, both 
German and Italian, has introduced, in 
no less than 23 distinct groups placed 
in the background, many of the events 
previous and accessory to the principal 
event set forth. The main group on 
the shutter on the left hand of the spec- 
tator represents Christ bearing his Cross, 
and the preceding events, beginning 
with the agony in the garden, are de- 
picted in the background. In the centre 
is the Crucifixion ; and on the other 
shutter on the rt. are two groups nearly 
equally important, the Entombment 
and the Resurrection ; the subsequent 
events until the Ascension being seen 
in the background. The figure of our 
Saviour in these compositions is, as 
usual, somewhat of a failure ; but in 
the other figures may be seen heads 
finely drawn and full of character. 
Observe the affecting scene of the En- 
tombment, and the heaviness of the 
corpse, round which the shroud is most 
gracefully arranged : also the beauty 
of some of the landscape backgrounds. 
Considering the period at which this 
work was painted, 1471, it is a marvel 
of art. It is wonderful for composition, 
expression, colour, and finish. The pic- 
ture is only dated and not signed, but 
there can be no doubt of its being one 
of the finest works of Memling. It is 
in the finest state, and was carefully 
washed and revarnished in 1 845. It 
eseaped a journey to Paris by being- 
concealed in the roof of the Cathedral. 
The stone pulpit, with panels of ala- 
baster (1568), and brass font (1455), 
are both of excellent workmanship. 
According to a tradition, this church is 
built on the spot where Henry the Lion, 
while engaged in the chase, fell in with 



326 



ROUTE 57. — LUBECK. MARIENKIRCHE. RATHHAUS. Sect. V. 



a stag having a cross growing between 
its horns, and a collar of jewels around 
its neck, with the produce of which the 
first church here was built. The 
legend is commemorated in two rude 
frescoes on the S. side of the nave. 
Among other curiosities is the bronze 
effigy of Bishop Bockholt in a reclining 
position, which adorns his monument, 
and a richly engraved brass of 2 bishops 
who died 1317 and 1330. Observe 
likewise here the circular vaulting in 
the nave and cross, underpinned and 
pointed; pews, cloister and hall, the 
N". porch, and the roodloft. 

The Marienkirche is a lofty church, 
date 1300, of elegant pointed Gothic, 
and entirely of brick, even to the 
reeded pillars, which are of moulded 
brick. The architecture and ornaments 
of the interior are even more interest- 
ing than at the Cathedral. The objects 
to be noticed in it are the Chapel at the 
E. end, resembling Becket's Crown at 
Cantei'bury; a handsome brass screen 
all round the choir ; a Dance of Death, 
dated 1463, curious for the costumes of 
the period represented in it r as well as 
for its being painted 35 years before the 
time of Holbein \ the organ and carved 
woodwork of the Burgomasters' seats ; 
the beautiful and highly antique brass 
font and sacrament pans ; a chapel on 
the S. side ; and the painted glass of 
the windows, by an Italian artist, Fr. 
Livi, who afterwards (1436) furnished 
those for the Duomo in Florence. 
They have not long been in this church, 
having been formerly in the Biirger- 
kirche, which has been pulled down. 
They are very inferior to the windows 
at Florence. At the W. end is an en- 
closed space formed by closing the W. 
door, where are deposited several cu- 
rious old paintings : one attributed 
to Wohlgemuth — perhaps correctly ; 
another is an altar-piece with double 
shutters. On the first pair being 
opened 4 paintings are seen, said to be 
(but erroneously, no doubt) by A. Durer. 
Inside the second pair of shutters, and 
in the centre, are elaborate carvings in 
wood of figures and Gothic tracery, — 
all gilt except the flesh, — representing 
events from the Gospel histoiy : it re- 
sembles a Spanish reiablo, and is cu- 



rious. The lion of the valets de place 
is a clock, behind the high altar, con- 
structed in 1405, which sends forth at 
noon figures of the 7 Electors, who 
march in review before the statue of 
the Emperor ; each as it passes makes 
a reverential obeisance, and then dis- 
appears. Overbeck is a native of Lii- 
beck, and two of his most esteemed 
pictures are in this church — Christ's 
entry into Jerusalem, painted in 1 824 ; 
and an Entombment, in 1845. 

The Heiligengeist Spital, a hospital 
of the 15th cent., has a singular 
but pretty W. front, and vorhalle or 
ante-chapel. 

The Katharinen Kirche, though now 
desecrated and turned into a receptacle 
for Liibeck antiquities, is a fine ch., 
and retains many altars and ornaments 
untouched, a good rood, and old paint- 
ings. The Crypt, unusually lofty, and 
above ground, is laid open. The ar- 
chitect should visit the Jacobs and 
Egidi Kirchen (with the ruined Kloster). 

The Gothic Rathhaus, close to the 
Marienkirche, was built between 1442 
and 1517, but has suffered much from 
recent repairs. It presents its finest 
front to the market-place. The street 
entrance is by a vestibule of very neat 
and elegant design. The bronze figures 
on the door are very curious ; upstairs 
is a gallery with good elliptic vaulting. 
Within its walls in ancient times the 
deputies from 85 cities in Germany, 
who composed the Hanseatic League, 
held their deliberations. Here were 
concerted those wise measures which 
raised the confederation from humble 
beginnings to a height of power and 
wealth which not only enabled it to 
establish factories in all the great cities 
of Europe, including Bergen, Novgo- 
rod, Bruges, and London, but obtained 
for it the supremacy of the ocean, 
enabling it to wage successful war 
against neighbouring states, with an 
army of its own 50,000 strong, to depose 
powerful monarchs and form treaties 
with great kingdoms. The beautiful 
Hall of the Hansa, in which this coun- 
cil met, is divided into small rooms ; 
and the Bathskeller, dating froni 1443, 
is modernised by the Restaurateur ^vho 
occupies it. The senate of the town 



'russia. 



ROUTE 58. — HAMBURG TO STRALSUND. 



327 



now assemble in the lower story. The 
presiding Burgomaster rejoices in the 
title of " your Magnificence," the 
learned Senators are addressed " high 
wise," and the merchant Senators 
" well wise Sirs." 

In the Market-place is a stone, upon 
which Mark Meyer, an admiral of Lii- 
beck, was beheaded for running away 
from the Danish fleet. One of the 
most curious buildings in the town is 
the Schiffer Innung, or shipowners' 
guild, nearly unaltered inside and out, 
and still in use. The lower story is 
entirely occupied by one large hall 
with curious carvings, divided into 3 
aisles by rows of stalls, with models of 
famous ships of Liibeck suspended from 
the roof. 

Sir Godfrey Kneller and the bro- 
thers Adrian and Isaac van Ostade 
were born here ; their houses are still 
pointed out, as well as that in which 
Count Struense lived, near the Cathedral. 

The stranger should not omit to ob- 
tain a sight of the curious and well- 
executed carvings in wood, by an un- 
known artist, which ornament one of the 
rooms in the house of the Kauflewte-Com- 
pagnie, No. 800 in the Breitenstrasse. 

The Holsteiner Thor (Holstein Gate) 
(1477) is a singular and interesting speci- 
men of ancient feudal fortification, in an 
unaltered condition, but threatened with 
destruction by the railway, which has 
already caused the removal of great 
part of the old walls. 

The Burg Thor is a very curious and 
at the same time ornamental building. 

Until the French gained possession 
of Liibeck, no Jews were tolerated 
within the town ; they were banished 
to the neighbouring village, Moisling, 
which they still occupy almost exclu- 
sively. 

The trade of the town, which is still 
considerable, chiefly consists in the 
export of grain produced in the neigh- 
bouring districts, and in imports of 
wine, colonial produce,, and manufac- 
tures of its own consumption, and that of 
the surrounding countries. Great trade 
is also carried on in goose-quills for pens. 

Schnellpost. — Daily to Hamburg in 
about 6 hrs. Persons going to Berlin 
need not pass through Hamburg, but 



can join the railway at the Schwarzen- 
beck station, for which a Schnellpost 
leaves Liibeck every morning, and 
arrives in 6^ hrs. 

Persons going by steam to St. Peters- 
burg must have their passports signed 
by the Russian Consul before they can 
secure a berth. For all particulars re- 
specting a journey in Northern Europe, 
see Handbook for Denmark, Norway, 
Sweden, and Russia. 

„ The depth of the Trave at Liibeck 
has been greatly increased by dredging, 
so that the large steamers to St. Peters- 
burg, Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Dob- 
beran, start from hence. 

There is a fine avenue of lime-trees 
for some distance from the town on the 
Travemunde road. 10 m. below Lii- 
beck is 

Travemunde (i. e. the Mouth of the 
Trave), the port of Liibeck, a pretty 
small bathing-place, much resorted to 
in summer by Germans of the upper 
classes. Inns ; H. de Bussie ; Stadt 
Liibeck, a bath-house provided with 
reading-room and library ; Stadt Ham- 
burg ; both good and having restaurants 
attached. There are bathing-machines 
on the shore in the English fashion 
(called English bath-coaches), and 
warm sea-baths, which cost 24 schillings. 

Steam-boats. — Berths may be secured 
at the offices at Liibeck : — to St. Peters- 
burg once a week, from the middle of 
May to the middle of October ; — to 
Copenhagen twice a week, in about 20 h ; 
and to Stockholm once a week. 

BOUTE 58. 

HAMBURG TO STRALSUND, BY SCHWERIN, 
DOBBERAN, AND ROSTOCK. 

36 Germ. m. = 172 Eng. m. 

Bail to Bostock in 63 h. ; thence 
Schnellpost daily to Stralsund in 9£ 
h. The railway from Hamburg to 
Berlin (Bte. 61) is followed as far as 

12£ Hagenow Stat., whence a branch 
line is open to Schwcrin and Bostock. 

4£ Schwerin {Inns : H. du Nord ; 
Stadt Hamburg; Deutsches Haus), 
capital of the Grand Duchy of Meck- 
lenburg-Schwerin, 20,000 inhab., is 
prettily situated on the Lake of Schwe- 
rin, which is 14 m. long. The Bom is 



328 



ROUTE 58. — HAMBURG TO STRALSUND. 



Sect. V. 



one of the finest Gothic churches in 
N". Germany ; begun 1248, finished in 
the 15th cent., recently restored. The 
chapel of the Sacred Blood — the bu- 
rial-place of the Grand Ducal family — 
has been ornamented with paintings by 
Cornelius, and stained glass windows. 
The monument of the Duchess Helena 
(1524), of bronze, was cast by Peter 
Vischer. The Duke's picture gallery, 
Alexandrinen St., No. 1025, consists 
chiefly of Dutch and French works, 
and is shown daily (except Tues. and 
Sat.) 11-2. The Antiquarium con- 
tains objects of antiquity found in 
Mecklenburg. 

The Palace, a new edifice on an 
island, occupies the site of the Schloss, 
erected by Wallenstein while Duke of 
Mecklenburg, recently pulled down. 

The railway skirts the N. extremity 
of the Lake of Schwerin. At Kleinen 
Stat, a branch line diverges (1.) to 

2 Wismar Stat. (Tnn, Post), a sea- 
port, has 10,000 inhab., and lies at the 
extremity of a bay, which forms one of 
the best harbours in the Baltic. Its 
buildings are exceedingly curious and 
picturesque. 

Steamer to Copenhagen 3 times a 
week. 

Between "Wismar and Bostock lies 

2 Dobberan. — (Inns : Grosse Logier- 
haus ; Lindenhof.) Dobberan is a 
small market-town of 2200 inhab., 
pleasantly situated in sight of the Bal- 
tic, in a pretty country, more hilly and 
woody than the shores of the Baltic 
usually are ; the woods are of beech. 
It is a sea-bathing place, in a quiet 
rural situation. It contains a Palace 
of the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg- 
Schwerin, surrounded by a park and 
garden, and an old Gothic Church, in 
which are many monuments of the 
Grand Ducal family. 

The Baths are about 3 m. distant, on 
the sea-shore, at a place called Der 
Heilige Damm, from a huge bank of 
shingle, thrown up, according to the 
story, in a single night, to protect the 
country from inundation : a bath-house 
and lodging-houses have been built for 
those who prefer residing on the spot. 
Refreshments of all kinds may be pro- 
cured at the baths. 



The great body of visitors reside in 
Dobberan, and drive over to the baths 
to breakfast. Omnibuses run to and 
fro. It is customary to set out at 6 
in the morning for the Heilige Damm, 
to bathe. 

The finest and most extensive view 
is that from the top of the Dietrichs- 
hagen. 

The Gesellschaftshaus contains ball 
and concert rooms, adjoining the Pavi- 
lion in which the great dining-room 
is situated. 

Horse-races in August. 

The Rostock railway is carried near 
to Biitzow, on the Warnow, and fol- 
lows the course of that stream to 

Bostock Stat. — Inns : H. de Russie ; 
Stadt Stettin. This is the largest and 
most populous town in Mecklenburg ; 
it stands on the "Warnow, has 24,000 
inhab., and resembles Lubeck somewhat 
in the antiquity of its buildings. It 
is the birth-place of General Bliicher ; 
his statue of metal is placed in the 
square named after him, Bliicher' s 
Platz. The house in which he was 
born, 1742, still exists in the Alt-bet- 
telmonchstrasse. The great Ch. of 
St. Mary is very light and tall, date 
about 1300 ; its curious brass font is 
probably older. Inscriptions on each 
side of S. door in low German and 
Latin barely intelligible. The house 
in which Grotius died, 1645, is in one 
corner of the market-place, close to the 
Rathhaus. 

The Rathhaus, with its 7 towers, is 
a singular building, resembling that of 
Stralsund, but inferior to it. The Uni- 
versity of Rostock was founded in 1419 ; 
there are not more than 150 students. 
Keppler was professor here for a short 
time, appointed by Wallenstein, then 
Duke of Mecklenburg. 

Warnemunde, on the shore of the 
Baltic, at the mouth of the "Warnow 
(9 m.), is the port of Rostock. 

Schnellpost daily to Stralsund in 10^ 
hours. 

Fine forests 
far as 

o\ Ribnitz, on the backwater called 
Saaler-Bodden. 

I; Dammgarten, on the Rechnitz 
river, which forms the boundarv-line 



The road is good as 






Prussia. 



ROUTE 59. — HAMBURG TO HANOVER. 



329 



between Mecklenburg and Prussian 
Pomerania. 

3£ Stralsund in Ete. 76. 

EOUTE 59. 

HAMBURG TO HANOVER, BRUNSWICK, OR 
HILDESHEIM. 

Railway from Harburg. Trains 
twice a-day, in 5 hrs. The country- 
over which it passes is desolate and 
monotonous, chiefly heath. 

Steamers. — 8 times a-day, in 1 hr., 
from Hamburg across the Elbe, to 

Harburg (Inns i Post ; Kbnig von 
Schweden ; good), on its left bank, a 
town of 4000 inhab. Passengers are 
landed from the steamer about a mile 
from the station upon an island, united 
by a wooden bridge to the town, which 
they do not enter. In 1813, the 
French, under Marshal Davoust, tried 
to connect Hamburg with the out- 
works of Harburg by a chaussee 
across the island of Wilhelmburg, 
wooden bridges being thrown over the 
marshes. This work was much over- 
rated, and was removed as useless in 
1818 : it was not thrown over the 
Elbe itself, the N. and S. arms of which 
were passed by ferries. The view from 
the Schwarze Berg, behind Harburg, 
is fine. 

Bardowick, skirted by the railway, 
was the most important trading town 
in the N. of Germany before Hamburg 
arose. Its ancient Dom ch. is pre- 
served. 

"Winsen Stat. 

Liineburg Stat. — Inns : HofFnung ; — 
Stadt Hamburg ; — Deutsches Haus, 
clean and moderate. L. G. — This is a 
most interesting old town : though de- 
cayed and little visited, it was formerly 
the capital of a duchy, has still 13,000 
inhab., and retains the aspect of its pri- 
mitive antiquity. The Rathhaus, though 
altered outside, is a real museum of art. 
The interior abounds in fine glass paint- 
ing, carved chandeliers, tapestry, embroi- 
dery, frescoes. The most important 
feature is the new Council Chamber, en- 
tirely covered with fine compositions 
from sacred and profane history, by 
Albert of Soest (1566-68), of very great 



merit. Here is preserved a curious 
specimen of goldsmith's work, the 
Biirgereid crystal, an enamelled relic- 
box, with a rock crystal on the top, 
upon which the burghers of Lunebxirg 
placed their thumb when required to 
take an oath. It is the work of Hans 
v. Littart, 1444. 

In another apartment is preserved, 
\inder lock and key, the corporation 
plate ; many of the vessels are master- 
pieces of goldsmith's work of the 15th 
cent., and there is a Madonna of silver 
2 ft. high. 

The principal church, an interesting 
Gothic edifice, composed, as well as the 
lofty spire which surmounts it, of brick 
or terra cotta, contains many relics of 
better days. 

Many of the gablefaced houses are 
fine specimens of domestic Gothic ; 
many of them retain in front the orna- 
mented posts, with coats of arms, which 
marked the residence of the magis- 
trates. 

Here are salt springs and salt-works. 
Old walls. 

Bieneiibuttel Stat. ) 
Bevensen Stat. j Much moorland 
Uelzen Stat. V(the Luneburger 

Suterberg Stat. I Heide) is passed. 
Eschede Stat. ) 

Celle Stat. — Inns, Hannoverischer 
Hof ; Sandkrug. A town of 10,000 
inhab., on the Aller, in the midst of a 
sandy plain. The Royal Palace, lately 
repaired, has a fine chapel. In the 
French garden stands a mediocre monu- 
ment to Matilda Queen of Denmark, 
sister of George III., who died here. 
The ancient Parish Ch. contains the 
burial-vault of the house of Brunswick- 
Liineburg. From one of its dukes, 
Ernest of Celle, who is buried here, 
the two houses of Hanover and Bruns- 
wick, including the Royal Family of 
England, are descended. The King 
of Hanover has a splendid Stud here. 

Burgdorf Stat. 

Lehrte Stat. — Here 4 lines meet, 
from Harburg, Hildesheim, Hanover, 
and Brunswick, and passengers are 
transferred from one train to another.: 
they must therefore take care that they 
get into the right one. For the route 
from Lehrte "W. to Hanover, or E. to 



330 



ROUTE 60. — HAMBURG TO BREMEN. 



Sect. Y. 



Brunswick, see Rte. 66. The railway 
runs southward to 

Hildesheim Station, Rte. 72. 

ROUTE 60". 

HAMBURG TO BREMEN AND OLDENBURG. 

22f Germ. m. = 109£ Eng. m. 

A good road, traversed by a sehnell- 
post daily, in 15 hrs. to Bremen. 

lj Harburg. See preceding Rte. 

3f Tostedt. — Inn small, but tolerable. 

3f Rothenburg. — Inn clean and 
comfortable. 

2J Ottersberg. 

3£ Bremen, in Rte. 09. 

2 Delmonhorst. 

2 Sandersfeld. 

2 Oldenburg. — Inn : Erb Prinz best, 
and well situated. A very dull town, 
in a flat country, on the small river 
Hunte, which is navigable up to the 
town. Capital of the Grand Duchy, 
with 8000 inhab. The chief buildings 
are the Grand Duke's Palace, of antique 
architecture, furnished in a moderate 
style, and containing some very poor 
paintings by Tischbein. In ,pne of 
the outhouses of the palace is a gallery 
of pictures, some of which bear great 
names ; but it is difficult to fix on any 
which make the collection worth a visit. 
Near the palace is a beautiful garden 
and park, and the Church of St. Lambert. 

Communication between Oldenburg 
and Bremen is kept up in summer by 
steamers, and considerable works have 
been executed on the Weser below 
Bremen, in order to increase the depth 
of water. A small steam-boat leaves 
Oldenburg early in the morning, and 
descends the Hunte to Elsfleth, where 
the passengers are transferred to larger 
boats, going up to Bremen and down 
to Bremerhafen : having received the 
passengers who have arrived from those 
places, it returns to Oldenburg. The 
steamer which meets that from Olden- 
burg at Elsfleth leaves Bremen early in 
the morning. 

ROUTE 61. 

HAMBURG TO BERLIN. — RAILWAY. 

38 Pruss. m. = 178 Eng. m. — Trains 
in 9 hrs. 



The line is carried across the marsh- 
land on the north of the Elbe through 
the district of Vierland (four lands, so 
called from its having 4 villages), re- 
markable for its market gardens, and 
the picturesque costume of its peasantry, 
who are believed to be the descendants 
of a Dutch colony. 

2*1 Germ. m. Bergedorf Stat. — A 
village on the confines of the Ham- 
burg territory. 

The country traversed is, for the 
most part, entirely flat. It is a portion 
of that great plain of sand which extends 
almost uninterruptedly from Holstein 
to St. Petersburg. Generally speaking, 
it has a character of extreme barren- 
ness, producing little but heath and 
scanty plantations of fir. The whole 
of this vast plain is scattered over with 
rounded fragments of slate and granite 
rocks, such as nowhere exist in situ be- 
tween the Elbe and Baltic, nor any- 
where nearer than the mountains of 
Norway and Sweden, from whence they 
must have been torn, and transported 
over the Baltic, but whether by some 
vast current of water, or by icebergs or 
glaciers, are questions on which geolo- 
gists are not agreed. These boulders 
occur above and below the surface, 
from the size of a pebble to that of a 
house. 

• 5 Reinbeck Stat. 

• 9 Friedrichsruhe Stat. 

1*4 Schwarzenbeck Stat.; a great 
deal of fir forest. 

l-4Buchen Stat.— [1. The branch 
Railway to Liibeck (Rte. 57). A branch 
line is carried S. from here to the Elbe 
at 

Lauenburg. — Inns : Rathskeller ; 
Schwam A town of 3400 inhab. upon 
the Elbe, where the King of Denmark 
levies tolls on all vessels passing the 
Elbe.] 

The canal of the Stecknitz, joining 
the Elbe to the Baltic, crossed by the 
railway near Buchen Stat., is one of the 
oldest in Europe. "We enter the terri- 
tory of Mecklenburg- Schwerin, a few 
miles before reaching 

1 *8 Boitzenburg Stat. (Klepper'slnn 
is tolerable), a small town upon the 
Elbe. Here, and at the small fortress 
of Dbmitz, the Duke of Mecklenburg 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 61. — HAMBURG TO BERLIN. 



331 



exacts a productive toll, though only a 
narrow slip of his territory touches the 
river at these points. 

A large part of Mecklenburg is fer- 
tile corn-land, contrasting remarkably 
with the sandy deserts of Lauenburg, 
near Hamburg, and the dreary waste 
around Berlin. Upon the heaths and 
commons numerous flocks of geese are 
fed, which furnish a large portion of 
Europe with quills, and the inhabitants 
of this country with a delicacy called 
goose-breasts, consisting of that part of 
the bird smoked and cured like bacon. 

1-8 BrahlsdorfStat. 

2 • 6 Hagenow Stat. Hence a branch 
line diverges N. to Schwerin, "Wismar, 
and Bostock. (Bte. 58.) 

2 . 8 Luduoigslust Stat. {Inn, H. de 
"Weimar), a town of 4000 inhab., the 
summer residence of the Grand Duke 
of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, whose Pa- 
lace is the principal building. It con- 
tains a small cabinet of pictures, among 
them some good specimens of the Dutch 
school, and a collection of Slavonic 
antiquities, chiefly found in Mecklen- 
burg. Many were dug up on the site 
of the Temple of Badegast. Attached 
to the palace are a spacious park and 
garden. The Bussian chapel, contain- 
ing the mausoleum of the Archduchess 
Helena, might interest those who have 
never before seen a chapel dedicated to 
the service of the Greek church. 

The Stables of the Grand Duke are 
extensive. He possesses a fine stud, 
and pays great attention to the im- 
provement of the breed. 

At the village of Wobbelin, on the 
road to Schwerin, is a cast-iron monu- 
ment to Korner, the German Tyrtaeus, 
poet and warrior, who fell in an action 
near Gadebusch, fighting against the 
French, 1813, a few hours after com- 
posing his celebrated " Schwerdtlied." 
His remains rest under an oak, where 
they were interred by his brothers in 
arms, and a monument of cast-iron 
marks his grave. 

1 Grabow Stat., a small town of 
Mecklenburg, containing large store- 
houses for butter, which is sold in 
great quantities at 6 fairs held here 
annually. 

The Prussian frontier is crossed a 



little way beyond Grabow, but the 
Custom-house examination takes place 
at Berlin. The railway then bends S. 
towards the Elbe, which it reaches at 

4 • 9 Wittenberge Stat, (not to be 
confounded with Luther's burial-place, 
Bte. 63). 

[From "Wittenberge a line branches 
off to Magdeburg, crossing the Elbe, and 
passing by Osterburg and Stendal (Inns: 
Adler ; Schwan) , once capital of the 
Altmark. It has a cathedral and ch. 
of St. Mary, both of the 15th cent., and 
a Bolandsaule. It is the birthplace 
of Winkelman, the antiquary.] 

1 • 8 Wilsnack Stat. 

1 • 5 Glowen Stat. 

2 Zernitz Stat. 

1 Neustadt, on the Dosse Stat. 
[About 12 m. E. of this, near Neu 
Buppin, is the Chateau of Rheinsberg, 
where Frederick the Great spent many 
of his youthful years, and, according 
to his own account, the happiest of 
his life. Ziethen, one of the generals 
of the Seven Years' War, was buried at 
Wustrau.] 

1 • 8 Friesak Stat. 

[At Fehrbellin, a few m. N. of 
Friesack, the great Elector of Bran- 
denburg, in 1675, gained a decisive 
victory, with 5000 cavalry, over the 
Swedes, 11,000 strong, by which he 
laid the foundation of the future great- 
ness of the House of Brandenburg.] 

1 • 7 Paulinenau Stat. 

1 • 8 Naucn Stat. — Inns : Stadt Ham- 
burg ; Golden Stern. A town of 3050 
inhab. The greater part of it was 
destroyed by fire in 1830. 

3 * 2 Spandau Stat. — Inn : Bother 
Adler. A strongly fortified town of 
7000 inhab., at the junction of the Spree 
with the Havel, which is here crossed 
by the railway. These rivers afford 
the means of inundating the surround- 
ing country, in the event of a hostile 
attack. Its citadel stands on an island. 
The Ch. of St. Nicholas, a Gothic edi- 
fice of the 16th cent., contains several 
curious monuments, and a very ancient 
metal font. The Penitentiary, once the 
Palace of the Electors of Brandenburg, 
is admirably managed, and is capable 
of containing 500 prisoners. 

rt. About 3 m. before reaching Ber- 



332 



ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. INNS. EXHIBITIONS. 



Sect. V. 



lin the railway crosses the Spree, and 
near this are the Palace and Gardens of 
Charlottenburg. (Seep. 348.) Berlin 
Stat, near the Cemetery of the Invalids, 
outside the Neue Thor, and not far from 
the Model Prison (Zellen-Gefangniss). 

1*5. Berlin. — Inns: H. de Eussie, 
near the Schlossbriicke, much recom- 
mended ; — H. de Petersburg ; — Mein- 
hart's Hotel ; — Stadt Rom : all Unter 
den Linden. H. de Brandenburg, com- 
fortable ; — British Hotel, U. den Linden ; 
— -H. du Nord, containing the English 
chapel, good ; — Goldner Adler ; — Vic- 
toria Hotel; — H. de l'Europe. 2nd-class 
inn : Rheinischer Hof, near the Anhalt 
Railway Station, good and moderate. 
Charges, &c, see § 51. Table-d'hote, 
without wine, 15 Sgr. ; rooms, from 
10 Sgr. upwards. The Inns in general 
are not good. 

The Passport- office (Pass-bureau) is 
at No. 2, Molkenmarkt. 

The Post and Schnellpost offices, No. 
60, Konigsstrasse, are open from 7 
a.m. to 8 p.m. 

Droschkies (open hackney coaches) ply 
for hire in the principal streets. Fares 
for 1 or 2 persons : a drive 5 Sgr. ; 3 or 4 
persons, 7 \ Sgr.; by the hour, 15 and 
17£ Sgr., 1 or two horses alike. Every 
person is presented by the driver with a 
printed ticket, bearing his number and 
the date of the month, — an excellent 
regulation. 

A Valet de place receives usually 1 
dollar per diem ; 1 5 Sgr. for half a day. 

The best baths are at No. 1, behind 
the Neuer Packhof, and 19, Neue 
Friedrichsstrasse . 

English Church. — An English Epis- 
copal chapel has been fitted up, close 
to, and connected with, the Hotel du 
Nord, Unter den Linden, 35. 

Time Table of Sights. 

Daily, except Sunday. — Royal Pa- 
lace, 10—3 (p. 336). Egyptian Mu- 
seum, 12 — 2 (p. 342). Raczynski Pic- 
ture Gallery (p. 345). Zoological Gar- 
den (p. 348). Bethanian, 10 — 4 (p. 346). 
Changing Guard, 11 a.m., and Military 
Band opposite the Guard - house (p. 
335). 

Monday. — Pictures and Sculptures in 
Museum, 10—4 (pp. 339-340). 



Tuesday. — Gems and Coins, and Me- 
diseval Collection in Museum, 10 — 4 
(p. 339). Kunstkammer, 10—4 (p. 336). 
Cabinet of Natural History, 12 — 2 
(p. 343). Schinkel's Museum, 11—1 
(p. 346). Pictures in Bellevue, 10—1 
and 2—6 (p. 348). 

Wednesday. — Kunstkammer, 10 — 4 
(p. 336). Vases* and Bronzes in Mu- 
seum, 10 — 4 (p. 339). Anatomical 
Museum, 4 — 6 summer ; 2 — 4 winter 
(p. 344). Royal Library, 9—12 (p. 
343). Arsenal, 10—4 (p. 344). 

Thursday. — Kunstkammer, 10 — 4 
(p. 336). 

Friday. — Kunstkammer, 1 — 4 (p. 
336) . Gems and Coins and Mediaeval 
Collection in Museum, 10—4 (p. 339). 
Cabinet of Natural History, 12 — 2 (p. 
343). Schinkel's Museum, 11—1 (p. 
346). Pictures in Bellevue, 10 — 1 and 
2—6 (p. 348). Botanic Garden (p. 348). 

Saturday. — Pictures and Sculptures 
in Museum, 10—4 (pp. 339-340). 



Royal Library, 9- 
tomical Museum, 
winter (p. 344). 
344). 



-12 (p. 434). Ana- 

l — 6 summer ; 2 — 4 

Arsenal, 2 — 4 (p. 



Berlin, the capital of Prussia, stands 
on the Spree, a small stream with a 
veiy sluggish current; which, however, 
by means of canals, communicates with 
the Oder and the Baltic on the one 
hand, and flows into the Elbe on the 
other. Population, 410,000 ; of whom 
8000 are soldiers of the garrison, 
7000 Jews, 5300 descendants of the 
French Protestants driven out of 
France by the religious intolerance of 
Louis XIV., and 20,000 Rom.Catholics. 
It is the residence of the King, and of 
the foreign ministers, among them of an 
English minister, and the seat of go- 
vernment. The great number of sol- 
diers gives to Berlin almost the air of 
a camp. 

The city is situated in the midst of a 
dreary plain of sand, destitute of either 
beauty or fertility. It is surprising 
that the foundation of a town should 
ever have been laid on so uninteresting 
a spot ; but it is far more wonderful 
that it should have grown up, notwith- 
standing, into the flourishing capital of 



B3EMLEM 

1 Roy al Palace .... _D 4 !l2 Raciinsla. 'Picture* 

2 late Kings Gallery.. A 3 

private residence, C 4 13 Cathedral ... . X) 3 



3 Museum C 



14 Garrison, Ch,. . 



4 Royal Lib rary C 4 |6 Catholic Clv.^ C 4 



b University ..C 4 AS S? Nicholas D 4 

6 Arsenal. C 4 17 Fr-icdrichswoder Ch.C 4 

7 Guard house C 4 |18 FrenchRef. Ch. C 4 

% Pal. of Monhyou C 3 J19 TheNeucMrche, C 4 

P.ofPr. of Prussia, C 4 |20.$?Zfefe!»v 6%. D 4 

lOP.ofPr.Carl B 4 21 TaubstumrnervInst...C 2 



P. of Pr. Albert B 6 



22 R.Iron, foundry B 1 

2ZR. China rnanufS B 5 



24 Fine Arts Acad.?. .C 4 

2b Architect} Acad?. C 4 

26 Gewerbe Schule ...C 5 

27 Opera, house, C 4 

28R.Play-honse... C 4 

29 Konigstadtisches Th.Y. 3 

30 Lagerhaus ..E 3 

31 Cornelius' Stud io A3 

p < 32Gene?-al Post office D 3 

33 Statue of Frederick 




J. & C. WaJher Sculp. 



G 

BE 

1 Royal ttolaoe 

2 Late \Kinge 
prwate residence 

A Musman 

■l Ro) a2 Ubntrv 

5 f mi entity 
li Arstnal 

7 Guard house 

8 Tal. <■>/' fltonbycm 
•J f '<"' Pr, oPPnissu 
lOP.of Pr.Oul. 

\/\ U. /' or Pr. Albert 



n 

RILIH 

I> l VlRaciiiMki Picture 

GaOtwy A 3 

-C I OCnOuxbvl n 3 

l :< HC, m ,.« (V. D 3 

c I lb Catholic CK. C I 

C I U. .V'.V„V,../„., U 4 

C I 17 rrie,trichsue>\lcr 01 I' I 

c I 18 ftouA /(«■: 01 . c 1 

( :( I!) The X.ue hirche C I 

( 1 20J*ftCav (Vi . D I 

li I 21 Tmihttummen Inxl. C 2 

.. B 11 22 «.//»•« r.minlry B 1 

Z.\ li.i'/uitti manufj!. 11 :» 
24 /»!<■ -*-/.f .-/<W ' 

■t:>.lrr/i,lnt'.t,,ii/,' C 4 

20^'cii iv/if SchuUl (' h 

27C>/»c/K/ house C t 

inRPl.n haute C I 
>!) koiiiijttmltisehes Th E 3 

QOLagBrhaus E 3 

;ll Cor nelius Snidi c \ 3 

,J-j 3> general /}•..■» .•/>!..• I) :i 
— ^J .Ti Atiftic .;/' lYeaeritk 

» /A- firvm C 1 

n .)■! «,!/.,./.>■ F6 




/ ,i , n;,ii.**Siiiii< 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. SOCIETY. 



333 



a great empire. Previous to the reign 
of Frederick I. it was an unimportant 
town, confined to the rt. bank of the 
Spree, and to the island on which the 
Palace and Museum now stand. Since 
that time, in 150 years, its population 
has increased ten-fold, and its limits 
have extended until its walls are 12 m. 
in circumference. Frederick the Great, 
being ambitious to possess a capital 
proportionate to the rapid increase of 
his dominions, at once enclosed a vast 
space with walls, and ordered it to be 
filled with houses. As the population 
was scanty, the only mode of comply- 
ing with the wishes of the sovereign 
was by stretching the houses over as 
wide a space as possible. In conse- 
quence, some of the handsomest hotels 
are only two stories high, and have as 
many as 20 windows on a line. The 
streets are necessarily broad, and there- 
fore generally appear empty. Owing 
to the want of stone in the neighbour- 
hood, the larger part even of the pub- 
lic buildings are of brick and plaster. 
The flatness of the ground and the 
sandy soil produce inconveniences which 
the stranger will not be long in detect- 
ing. There is so little declivity in the 
surface, that the water in the drains, 
instead of running off, stops and stag- 
nates in the streets. In the Friedrichs- 
strasse, which is 2 m. long, there is 
not a foot of descent from one end to 
the other. In the summer season the 
heat of the sun reflected by the sand 
becomes intolerable, and the noxious 
odours in the streets are very un- 
wholesome as well as unpleasant. A 
third nuisance is, that the streets are 
only partially provided with trottoirs, 
so narrow that two persons can scarcely 
walk abreast, and many are infamously 
paved with sharp stones, upon which it 
is excruciating pain to tread. 

The mere passing traveller in search 
of amusement will exhaust the sights 
of Berlin perhaps in a fortnight, and 
afterwards find it tedious without the 
society of friends. The stranger com- 
ing to reside here, provided with good 
introductions, may find an agreeable 
literary society composed of the most 
talented men in Germany, whom the 
government has the art of drawing 



around it in an official capacity, or as 
professors of the university. The names 
of Humboldt the traveller, Savigny the 
jurist, Ranke and Raumcr the histo- 
rians, Ehrenberg the naturalist, Von 
Buch the geologist, Bitter the geo- 
grapher, Grimm the philologist and 
editor of the Kinder and Haus-Mar- 
chen, Schellingthe metaphysical writer, 
Cornelius the painter, Tieck the author 
f who spends three months of the year 
here, the King having granted him a 
pension on that condition), all residents 
of Berlin, enjoy a European celebrity. 
The society of the upper classes is on 
the whole not very accessible to stran- 
gers, nor is hospitality exercised to the 
same extent among them as in Eng- 
land, chiefly because their fortunes are 
limited. The hotels of the diplomatic 
corps are an exception, and in them the 
most agreeable soirees are held in the 
winter season. 

Notwithstanding the disadvantages 
of situation, Berlin is certainly one of 
the finest cities in Europe. Some of 
the most splendid buildings are con- 
centrated in a very small space between 
the Palace (Schloss) and the Branden- 
burg Gate, or very near it. Few Euro- 
pean capitals can show so much archi- 
tectural splendour as is seen in the 
colossal Palace, the beautiful colonnade 
of the new Museum, the chaste Guard- 
house, the great Opera, and the Uni- 
versity opposite. These, with the Ar- 
senal, by some considered a most per- 
fect specimen of architecture (?), in the 
city, and the Aeademy of Arts, are all 
within a stone's throw of one another, 
and the greater part may be seen by 
turning round on one's heel, while 
the two churches and theatre in the 
Gendarmes Platz are not many paces 
off. 

Most of these buildings are situated 
in the street named TJnter den Linden, 
from a double avenue of lime trees, 
which form a shady walk in its centre, 
while on each side of it runs a carriage 
road. It is the principal and most 
frequented street in this city. The 
view along it is terminated by the 
magnificent Brandenburg Gate. 

The Brandenburg Gate is said to 
have been designed as an imitation of 



334 



ROUTE 61. BERLIN. FREDERICK THE GREAT. Sect. V. 



the Propylseum at Athens, but on a 
larger scale. The car of victory on 
the top was carried to Paris as a trophy 
by Napoleon, but it was recovered by 
the Prussians after the battle of "Water- 
loo, who bestowed upon the goddess, 
after her return, the eagle and iron 
cross which she now bears. A French 
authority (Malte Brun) describes it 
thus : — " Le quadrige de cuivre qui 
fut enleve par les Francais lors de la 
premiere campagne de Prusse, et qui 
a ete a Paris depuis 1806 jusqu'a 1814, 
ne decora jamais aucun des monumens 
de cette capitale ; — chef-d'oeuvre de 
patience plutot que de l'art, il fut 
execute par un chaudronnier de Ber- 
lin ; ce n'est point un ouvrage de 
ciselure, mais un simple releve en bosse 
sur du cuivre lamine." 

The Prussians have exhibited their 
gratitude and respect to the memory 
of the worthies of their country, in the 
statues of them erected in the streets 
and squares of the capital. Those to 
whom this honour has been paid are, 
without exception, military heroes. 
The Government has rendered only 
tardy justice to the greatest of them all, 
Frederick the Great, to whom an eques- 
trian statue in bronze, modelled by 
Eauch, was erected in 1851, in the 
Unter den Linden, opposite Prince "Wil- 
liam's Palace and the University. It 
is probably the grandest monument in 
Europe. It consists of a granite pedestal 
25 ft. high, presenting on each face 
bronze groups of the great military 
commanders of the Seven Years' War, 
on foot and horseback, all the size of 
life, and all portraits in high relief. 
The most prominent figures are those 
of his four best generals, the Duke of 
Brunswick, afterwards the commander 
of the allies against Dumouriez and the 
forces of the French Convention, Prince 
Heinrich of Prussia, General Seydlitz, 
and General Ziethen. The standing 
figures are not selected wholly accord- 
ing to their rank, but have been taken 
on account of the honourable record of 
their deeds or services in the letters, 
despatches, and works of the King him- 
self. They include all the military 
celebrities of the period. One of the 
faces of the pedestal contains, between 



the statues of Seidlitz and Ziethen, the 
figures of three statesmen, Count Finck 
von Finckenstein, Frederick's minister 
of foreign affairs ; von Schlaberndorf, 
the chief of the ministerial departments, 
who did so much to keep the finances 
in order during the worst periods of the 
war ; and Count von Carmer, the state 
chancellor, who completed the code 
known as the Allgemeine Landrecht, and 
reorganised the whole legal system. 
Three other names connected with the 
arts and science are also found in this 
division — Graun, Frederick's favourite 
musical composer, Lessing, and Kant. 
The whole number of portrait figures, 
the size of life, on the four faces of the 
pedestal, is thirty-one. To reproduce 
them correctly the best authorities have 
been consulted, and authentic drawings, 
busts, and medals of the period, have 
been strictly followed. This has in- 
volved an immense amount of labour, 
but the value of the monument, as an 
historical work, is thereby increased 
tenfold. The costumes and arms of the 
time are given with equal accuracy. 

Beneath the figures are two tablets 
inscribed with the names of 80 distin- 
guished soldiers of the age of Frederick, 
whose portraits could not be given. 
The third side bears the names of 16 
statesmen, artists, and men of science 
of the epoch. The fourth or front 
tablet has the following simple inscrip- 
tion : — 

" To Frederick the Great, Frederick 
William III., 1850 ; completed by Fre- 
derick William IV., 1851." 

Above the figures there is at each 
corner a female figure representing the 
four cardinal virtues — Prudence, Jus- 
tice, Fortitude, and Temperance. Be- 
tween them are bas-reliefs, emblematic 
of different periods of the monarch's life; 
by a mixture of the ideal and reality, 
his birth, his education — civil and mili- 
tary — and his career before and after 
he became king, are represented with 
simplicity and neatness. In the second 
relief a muse is teaching the young 
prince history, pointing out to him the 
names of the commanders he most ad- 
mired — Alexander, Caesar, and Gustavus 
Adolphus. In the third. Minerva is 
giving him the sword. In another an 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. STATUES. CHURCHES. 



335 



historical event is embodied ; it pre- 
sents the King after his defeat at the 
battle of Kolin, sitting on a waterpipe, 
looking earnestly on the ground, on 
which he is drawing the lines of a plan 
with his cane. The subject has been 
so often engraved that it is familiar to 
every German. In the background of 
the tablet are allegorical figures of 
Triumph and Victory, intimating that 
the defeat was retrieved. The other 
reliefs exhibit him encouraging the arts 
of peace ; he is in the hut of a Silesian 
linen- weaver examining his web ; or 
playing the flute, on which instrument 
he was a proficient ; or walking in the 
gardens of Sans Souci, surrounded by 
his favourite greyhounds. The last 
tablet contains his apotheosis. 

The equestrian statue itself is 17 ft. 
3 in. high ; it represents the monarch 
" in his habit as he lived ;" and, diffi- 
cult as it must have been to deal with 
the costume of the period, and impart 
to it the dignity necessary in a monu- 
ment, the task has been perfectly ac- 
complished. Even the queue, to our 
ideas not only unsightly but unnatural, 
has been grappled with boldly. An 
ermine mantle hangs loosely from the 
monarch's shoulders, although, as he 
never wore one, Rauch has been blamed 
for this addition, but excuses himself 
on the plea that, without it, the figure 
would have appeared puny and insigni- 
ficant at such an elevation. In every 
other detail the figure is true to life. 
The stick carried by a band from the 
right wrist, the three-cornered hat, the 
pistol holsters, and all the accoutre- 
ments of the horse are minutely copied 
from the relics preserved of the Great 
King. 

On the long bridge leading from the 
Konigsstrasse to the Schloss Platz is 
the equestrian statue of the Great 
Elector Fred. Wm., in bronze, designed 
by Schliiter, and possessing consider- 
able merit as a work of art. 

Opposite the Grand Guardhouse 
(Haupt-wache) stands the bronze sta- 
tue of JBlucher, a spirited figure, well 
executed ; the pedestal is decorated with 
good bas-reliefs. Facing him, on each 
side of the Guardhouse, are the marble 
statues of Generals Billow von Dennewitz 



and Scharnhorst, the reformer of the 
Prussian army after the battle of Jena, 
and the founder of the present military 
system of Prussia. These three statues 
are by the sculptor Rauch. 

The cannon and mortars behind the 
Guardhouse were brought from Paris, 
1816 ; the mortars were cast in France, 
to be employed in the siege of Cadiz, 
and are the fellows of the one in St. 
James's Park. The cannon originally 
came from Liibeck, and was carried off 
by the French in 1806. 

In the square called Wilhelnis Platz, 
near the Potzdam Gate, are the statues 
of six heroes of the Seven Years' War, 
the Prince of Anhalt-Dessau, Generals 
Ziethen, Schwerin, Winterfeld, Keith, 
and Seidlitz. They are for the most 
part of little merit as works of art, and 
the classical togas and armour in which 
some of them are dressed out are 
incongruous and in bad taste. 

The Churches are not the objects 
which will attract the most notice in 
Berlin. In St. Nicholas, a Gothic 
edifice of different periods, in the old 
town, is the tomb of Puffendorf, who 
died here in 1690. He was historio- 
grapher, privy counsellor, and judge at 
the court of Frederick William, Elector 
of Brandenburg. 

The Cathedral (JDom) between the 
Palace and the Exchange, built 1747, 
is ugly in its exterior, and within has 
hardly the air of a church. It is the 
burial-place of the Royal Family, and 
contains the remains of the Great 
Elector, and of Frederick I., King of 
Prussia, in gilded coffins. The bronze 
effigy of the Elector John Cicero, cast 
by a Burgundian artist, in 1540, — that 
of the Elector Joachim, made by one 
Adam Vischer of Nuremburg, — and a 
mosaic of St. Peter, given by Pope 
Pius VII. to the late King, on one 
side of the altar, deserve notice. 
Contiguous to the Dom, a cloister on the 
plan of the Campo Santo at Pisa is in 
the course of construction. It is intended 
for a royal burial-place, and is to be 
adorned with frescoes by Cornelius. 

The two churches in the Gen- 
darmes Platz are admired for their 
architecture. The Catholic Church of 
St. Hedwig is a poor imitation of the 



336 



ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. THE ROYAL PALACE. Sect. V. 



Pantheon. The Garnisonkirche is at- 
tended by the soldiers of the garrison : 
the music is good. It contains paint- 
ings by Rhode, of no great merit, and 
very inappropriate to a church, repre- 
senting the death of some of the gene- 
rals of the Seven Years' "War. Against 
the walls are hung tablets bearing the 
list of names of those who fell in the 
war of liberation, 1813-15: a similar 
memorial will be found in almost every 
parish church in Prussia, with the 
simple inscription, " They died for their 
King and Fatherland." The Church of 
Friedrichswerder is a modern Gothic 
structure, designed by Schinkel. It is 
of brick, and the mouldings, window 
tracery, cornices, corbels, and other 
ornaments usually cut out of stone, are 
of clay moulded and burnt into brick, 
an important application or revival of 
the use of that material to the purpose 
of ornamental architecture. St. Peter's 
is a fine new Gothic Church. 

At the Palace gate, on the side of the 
Lustgarten, stand bronze horses and 
grooms, imitated from those on the 
Monte Cavallo, Rome, gifts of the 
Empr. of Russia. The Berliners have 
nicknamed them Gehemmter Fort- 
schritt, and Beforderter Riickschritt. 

The Royal Palace, or Schloss, is in- 
debted to its vast size for the marked 
air of grandeur which its exterior pos- 
sesses. Within it is sumptuously fur- 
nished ; the state apartments are shown 
by the castellan, who lives in the 2nd 
court on the 2nd floor. In the Ritter- 
saal ('Knights' Hall), a splendid apart- 
ment, is the throne and a sideboard 
covered with massive old plate of gold 
and silver. In the White Hall, recently 
fitted up at great cost (120,000^.), and 
decorated with the statues of the 
12 Brandenburg Electors, and 8 alle- 
gorical figures representing the Prus- 
sian provinces, the first meeting of the 
Prussian Parliament was held, April, 
1847. The most interesting rooms 
are those which were inhabited by 
Frederick the Great, at the corner of 
the building facing the Schloss Platz, 
and nearest to the long bridge on the 
first floor. The best paintings have 
been removed by the King's permission 
to the Museum : among those that 



remain are Charles I. and his Queen 
Henrietta, by Vandyk — Marriage of 
St. Catherine, by Giulio Romano — Virtue 
quitting the Earth, Mars and Venus, 
by Rubens — Napoleon crossing the 
Great St. Bernard, by David — and in 
the "White Hall a portrait of the late 
King of Prussia, by Sir Thos. Lawrence, 
a present from Geo. IV. — Queen Vic- 
toria, by Hayter. There are some good 
works of the modern German school : 
Leonore (Burger's), by Lessing ; Jere- 
miah, Bendeman, &c. 

In former times, according to vulgar 
belief, this building was haunted by a 
ghost called the White Lady, who ap- 
peared only to announce the death of a 
member of the royal family. 

In the attic story of this palace, on 
the side towards the Lustgarten, is the 
Kunstkammer (Chamber of Art). Its 
collections (about to be removed to 
the New Museum, when it is finished) 
are well worth seeing ; they are shown 
on Tues., Wed., Thurs., and Friday, 
from 10-4 in summer, 10-3 in win- 
ter, by tickets, and as only 30 are 
issued each day, it is advisable to apply 
for them early — the day before — to the 
castellan of the museum. By sending 
your card to the directors, you will be 
allowed to join a party without waiting 
for your turn, which may not be for a 
fortnight. — J.M. One room is occu- 
pied by a collection illustrative of the 
manners and customs of different parts of 
the world, especially of savage nations ; 
such are a cloak of feathers, presented by 
Tamehameha, King of the Sandwich 
Islands, with a complimentary letter, to 
the late King of Prussia, in return for 
which he received the full uniform of 
the 2nd Regt. of Prussian Guards — a 
model of a Chinese lady's foot, to show 
the manner in which they are pinched 
and contracted — a filligree silver case, 
like a claw, nearly three inches long, 
worn by ladies of rank in China to pro- 
tect their finger-nails, which it is 
the fashion to let grow to that length 
— coloured pieces of paper used instead 
of napkins at dinner — a variety of Chi- 
nese dresses, among them the military 
uniform of a captain — a lasso from S. 
America — a cigar smoked by the ladies 
of Lima, l£ foot long and thick in pro- 



Prussia. 



KOUTE 61. — BERLIN. THE EOYAL TALACE. 



337 



portion— large disks of wood inserted 
by the Botocudos Indians in their ears 
and under- lips — tatooed head of a New 
Zealander — weapons brought from 
Africa, by Ehrenberg the traveller — 
an Australian necklace of human teeth 
— staves covered with Runic inscrip- 
tions carved on them, and a Runic 
almanac cut on 12 tablets of wood — 
the costumes of Mexico, in a series of 
coloured wax figures — copies of two 
of Northcote's pictures, by Chinese 
native artists, very well executed— a 
vast assortment of Chinese musical in- 
struments ; the modern invention of the 
mouth harmonica was taken from one 
of them — Japanese weapons : one of 
the most formidable is a sort of scythe 
fixed vertically upon the end of a long 
pole — saddle of the Turkish Pasha of 
Shumla, strangled for having yielded 
that fortress to the Russians in 1828. 
The Asiatic collection was chiefly formed 
by Kruger. 

A model of the mines of Freiberg. 
The head and horns of a stag in the 
centre of the trunk of a tree, which has 
grown around them, so that the points 
of the antlers alone project. 

The Historical Collection is highly 
interesting, as illustrating in many in- 
stances the characters and lives of re- 
markable men, and it is for the most 
part imdoubtedly authentic : it con- 
tains the model of a windmill made 
by Peter the Great, with his own hands, 
while working as a ship-^carpenter in 
Holland. — The Robes of the Orders of 
the Garter given by George IV. r and of 
the Holy Ghost given by Louis XYIIL, 
to the late King of Prussia : between the 
two is the scarlet dress of a Doctor of 
Civil Law given to him by the Uni- 
versity of Oxford, on the occasion of 
his visit in 1814. The hussar dress 
and cap, surmounted with a black eagle's 
wing, worn by the Prussian General 
Ziethen — two cannon balls, each with 
one side flattened, are said to have been 
fired by opposite parties in the siege of 
Magdeburg, and to have met together 
in the air ! 

Some of the relics here preserved are 
peculiarly national, such as — a cast 
taken after death from the face of Fre- 
derick the Great, — the bullet which 

[N.G.] 



wounded him in the battle of Rossbach, 
1760, — a wax figure of him clothed in 
the very uniform he wore on the day 
of his death ; the coat is rusty and tar- 
nished, the scabbard of the sword is 
mended with sealing-wax by his own 
hand ; his books and walking-cane, his 
baton, and the favourite flute, his solace 
in hours of relaxation, are carefully 
preserved here along with his pocket- 
handkerchief, which he used to the 
last; it is a dirty rag, very tattered, 
though patched in many places. This 
confirms the description of Dr. Moore, 
who visited the palace in Frederick's 
lifetime. " The whole wardrobe con- 
sisted of two blue coats, faced with 
red, the lining of one a little torn ; two 
yellow waistcoats, a good deal soiled 
with Spanish snuff ; three pairs of yel- 
low breeches, and a suit of blue velvet 
embroidered with silver, for grand occa- 
sions. I imagined at first that the man 
had got a few of the king's old clothes, 
and kept them here to amuse strangers ; 
but, upon inquiry, I was assured that 
what I have mentioned, with two suits 
of uniform which he has at Sans Souci, 
form the entire wardrobe of the king of 
Prussia. Our attendant said he had 
never known it more complete." 

Opposite the figure of Frederick is 
placed a glass-case containing the stars, 
orders, and decorations presented to 
Bonaparte by the different sovereigns 
of Europe, one of the most conspicuous 
being the Prussian black eagle : Eng- 
land alone, it appears, contributed none. 
They were taken by the Prussians after 
the Battle of Waterloo, in his carnage, 
from which he escaped so narrowly 
that he left his hat behind him, which 
is also preserved here. Not far off are 
Blucher's orders. A cast in wax from 
the face of the beautiful queen Louisa 
of Prussia. A cast of Moreau's face, 
taken after death. The oamp chair of 
the great Gustavus Adolphus. Fre- 
derick the Great's father's collection of 
well used tobacco pipes. The cap and 
sword worn by the Great Elector at 
the battle of Fehrbellin. A white dress 
that belonged to Murat is so fantastic 
in shape, and gaudy in gold lace, as 
fully to explain and justify the nick- 
name of Franconi, given him by Bona- 

Q 



338 



ROUTE 61.— BERLIN. MUSEUM. 



Sect. V 



parte. Two executioner's swords, re- 
markable on account of the persons 
whose heads have been cut off by 
them. 

A rich and elaborately ornamented 
cabinet, called the Pomeranian Chest, 
was made at Augsburg, 1617, for Phi- 
lip II. Duke of Pomerania, and is a 
mine of art in itself. A great variety 
of articles made of amber, and many 
specimens, rough and cut, of this mi- 
neral, whieh is found in great quantities 
within the Prussian dominion. 

Among the works of art in this mu- 
seum are a head carved in wood, by A. 
Diirer. A bas-relief of Orpheus and 
Eurydice, in bronze, by Peter Vischer. 
An ivory crucifix, attributed to M. 
Angelo. A large basin with bas-reliefs 
in ivory. The Descent of the Fallen 
Angels, an elaborately minute carving 
of many figures in ivory. The whole 
Life of Christ minutely carved in wood. 
A battle piece, by A. Diirer. An ex- 
tensive collection of carvings and reliefs 
in ivory, gold and silver plate, cups and 
vases enriched with bas-reliefs and pre- 
cious stones. An elephant's tusk carved 
with hunting scenes, probably a work 
of the 10th cent., is curious for its anti- 
qxiity. The old ivories and enamelled 
reliquaries are very fine. Here are 
some red cups of Bottcher's original 
Dresden china-ware, and 2 pale ones 
with Gothic patterns, very rare spe- 
cimens. Baron Trench's drinking cup, 
engraved by him while in prison. Lu- 
ther's beer jug, very large measure. A 
very beautiful series of miniature por- 
traits ; among them Gustavus Adolphus 
and his daughter Christina. A de- 
tailed catalogue of the Kunstkammer, 
drawn up by Kugler, has been printed. 
The late King's Private Residence, a 
modest mansion opposite the arsenal, 
is preserved just as it was left by its 
former occupant : and in its interior 
decoration it displays the simplicity and 
good taste which characterised him. 
The furniture and decorations are of 
native manufacture ; the pictures, &c, 
are the productions of national art and 
talents. In the principal apartment 
are very good copies of Baphael's best 
pictures by Prussian artists. 

The 3£usewn } facing the Lustgarten. 



— This very handsome edifice was fi- 
nished in 1830, from the designs of the 
distinguished architect Schinkel ; its 
foundations are laid on many thousand 
piles, as the spot on which it stands 
was previously a branch of the Spree, 
which has been filled up. 

Before the entrance is a gigantic 
basin of polished granite 22 feet in di- 
ameter. The block out of which it 
was formed was a vast isolated boulder, 
known as the great Markgrafenstein, 
and lay at Fiirstenwald, nearly 30 m. 
from Berlin. It was conveyed thence 
in a flat-bottomed boat along the Spree 
to Berlin, and there polished by the aid 
of a steam engine. 

At the rt. side of the staircase is a 
magnificent group in bronze, represent- 
ing the combat of an Amazon with a 
tiger by Kiss. On the 1. side is a horse- 
man contending with a lion, by Ranch. 

The walls of the noble colonnade, 
running along the front, have been 
adorned with frescoes by Cornelius. 
They were executed under the direc- 
tion of Cornelius from the somewhat 
fantastic designs of Schinkel, and are 
so illustrative of a style of composition 
frequently displayed in German art, 
that the explanation of the obscure al- 
legories which they contain is here 
given. They profess to illustrate alle- 
gorically the history of the formation 
of the universe and the intellectual de- 
velopment of mankind. On the 1. of 
the entrance, on ascending the steps, 
are represented "the sun in his chariot 
rising from the sea to give light to the 
world. In the clouds which reflect his 
glory are the Graces, with the sacred 
swans of the diety. Lively pictures of 
hope for the coming day rise out of the 
morning clouds. A choir of harpers in 
the clouds announce the rising of the 
sun. The life of the day is represented 
by various allegories. The grand and 
beautiful female who spreads over her- 
self a mantle, under which several 
groups of sleepers repose, is the Night. 
Selene shedding light drives her chariot 
through the night. Saturn and the 
Titans withdraw into the gloom of past 
time. Lastly, Uranus is leading the 
dance of " the starry host." On the 
right of the entrance "the spring of Ima- 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 61. BERLIN. MUSEUM. 



339 



gination rises up under the stroke from 
the hoof of Pegasus. Morning and 
Spring of Life : — shepherd races in the 
enjoyment of nature by poetry, and 
games of strength and activity. Be- 
ginnings of art in the outlines of 
shadows. Summer and Midday : — the 
harvest and its joys. Behind the water- 
fall from the fountain of poetry, re- 
sembling a veil, sit the Fates in the 
lap of the earth ; while everything 
draws animation and strength from the 
fountain. Evening and Autumn : — 
vintage, workshops of artists, and dis- 
covery of the Corinthian capital. War- 
riors return home, and Age is delighted 
by the visit of the Muses. Night and 
Winter : — the wise man watched by 
Psyche investigates the course of the 
stars. The moon descends into the sea. 
The grey-headed old man is absorbed 
in considering the elements. The sea- 
man launches out into the ocean over 
which the moon sheds its light. 

The collection which the Museum 
contains consists of — 1. The Antiqua- 
rium, on the ground floor. — 2. The 
Sculpture Gallery, on the 1st floor. — 3. 
The Picture Gallery, on the upper story. 
1. The Antiquarium (Entrance under 
the bridge at the back of the Museum) 
consists of — a. Collection of Vases, Bron- 
zes, fyc. — Admittance, Wed., 10 to 4. 
The Vases amount in number to 1600. 
They are exceedingly well classified, 
according to country and shape, and 
those bearing designs on the lower 
side, arranged upon tables of looking- 
glass. The contents of this portion of 
the Museum are principally derived 
from the collections of Bartholdy, 
Prus. minister at Rome, Baron Koller, 
Austrian commander at Naples, and 
from that formerly in the Palace. From 
its nature it is better calculated to in- 
terest the antiquarian than the general 
observer. 

Among the most remarkable objects in 
bronze are the following:— An extensive 
series of Roman Penates, or Household 
Gods ; Roman arms, armour, spear, back 
and breast plates, greaves for the legs, 
and various utensils ; a sacrificial axe, a 
large circular shield, a small statue of 
an elephant, of good workmanship. 
There are numerous articles in terra 



cotta, and various inscriptions on stone 
and metal. 

b. Collection of Gems and Coins. — 
Admittance, Tues. and Fri., 10 ^o 4. 
Among the 2814 gems, are many first- 
rate works, from the collection of Storsch ; 
a carnelion with the Sevenbefore Thebes ; 
portrait of Pompey ; young Hercules ; 
Jupiter, Serapis, and Ceres. 

c. Mediaeval Collection. — Admittance, 
Tues. and Fri., 10 to 4, Here are some 
fine specimens of the painted and glazed 
earthenware called Majolica, made in the 
duchy of Urbino in the 15th and 16th 
cent., and other objects of a higher 
order of art, also in baked clay painted 
and glazed. Among these may be 
noticed— (668, 674, and 675) busts of 
Pier Soderini, Lorenzo de' Medici, and 
Machiavelli ; a Virgin and Child, school 
of Michael Angelo ; and a large altar- 
piece by Luca della Robbia, a beautiful 
high relief of clay gilt, representing 
the Trinity. Other objects deserving of 
attention are — the golden shrine of St. 
Patroclus, brought from Soest, of very 
beautiful workmanship (date 1313?); 
a richly embossed silver dish of cinque 
cento work, possibly by Benvenuto Cel- 
lini ; and some painted glass. There is 
a catalogue costing 7^ Sgr. 

2. The entrance to the Sculpture 
Gallery is through a grand circular 
hall extending the whole height of the 
building, and very imposing from its 
size and proportions. Around it are 
antique statues, and in the centre a 
magnificent malachite vase, a gift of 
the Emp. Nicholas, while above hang 
9 original tapestries worked from the 
cartoons of Raphael ; they once be- 
longed to Henry VIII. and were pur- 
chased on the sale of Charles I.'s effects 
by the Duke of Alba. The antiquities 
are principally composed of the collec- 
tion of Cardinal Polignac. It may 
be premised that few of them are above 
mediocrity as works of arts, and that a 
large part of them are much indebted 
to modern restorers. There is, how- 
ever, at least one exception. The Boy 
praying is one of the finest antique 
bronze statues in existence ; it was 
found in the bed of the Tiber (140)— 
Apollo restraining Hercules from car- 
rying away the Delphic tripod, a bas- 

Q2 



340 



EOUTE 61. BERLIN. PAINTINGS. 



Sect. V. 



relief (81).— A Venus (113).— Daughter 
of Mobe (217).— A "Wrestler (129).— 
A Bacchante (130). — The procession of 
Bacchus and Ariadne (146), — Bust of 
Julius Csesar ; it used to stand on the 
table of Frederick the Great (295) ; — a 
hero or Mercury, found at Syra, 1831, 
the head and arms modern ; — Bust of 
Pericles (396); — Canova's Hebe — are 
almost the only others worth notice. 

3. The Picture Gallery, on the upper 
story of the building, is divided into 
numerous small compartments, by par- 
titions or screens extending from be- 
tween the piers of the windows nearly 
to the opposite walls. 

The collection is composed of, 1st, 
a selection from the paintings formerly 
in the Royal Palaces of Berlin, Sans 
Souci, and Charlottenburg, which the 
late king allowed to be removed to the 
Prussian National Gallery. They are 
marked in the Catalogue K. S. The 
Giustiniani collection (marked G. S.), 
from Venice, and the pictures of Mr. 
Solly, an English merchant (marked 
S. S.), both of which have been pur- 
chased by the Government. 

The Berlin Gallery ranks below the 
Galleries of Munich and Dresden in 
works of first-rate excellence, but it has 
good specimens of a great number of 
masters, especially of the early German 
and Italian schools. For those who 
are desirous . of studying the history 
and progress of the art, from the By- 
zantine schools, through those of Flo- 
rence and Sienna, to its period of ex- 
cellence, and thence to trace its gradual 
decay, there can be no better oppor- 
tunity than is here afforded them. 

The Director "Waagen has prepared 
an admirable catalogue, with a short 
introduction to explain the origin and 
character of each school. His arrange- 
ment, combining the chronological or- 
der with the classification according to 
schools, is very good. The 1st divi- 
sion contains the Italian, French, and 
Spanish schools ; the 2nd, the Dutch, 
Flemish and German. 

The gallery is divided into 37 ca- 
binets or compartments, each distin- 
guished by a number over the entrance. 
In the 4th cabinet, on the 1. of the 
entrance, begin the Italian schools ; on 



the one next to it, *. e. the 5th from the 
entrance, begin the Flemish schools. 
These two cabinets therefore may be 
considered as points of departure. If 
the spectator continue on to the 1. he 
will pass in succession through the 
cabinets devoted to Flemish art, com- 
mencing with the Van Eycks and end- 
ing with the followers of Rembrandt and 
Rubens; if he take an opposite direction, 
to the rt., he will find in regular order 
the works of the schools of Venice, Lom- 
bardy, Pome, Bologna, &c. 

The gallery is by no means deficient 
in fine works of the great Italian mas- 
ters, but it is particularly rich in the 
Flemish and Dutch schools. Among the 
pictures which appear most deserving 
of attention are the following : — 

Italian School. — Andrea Mantegna ; 
28, Angels weeping over Christ. Titian ; 
166 a, portrait of his daughter Lavinia. 
Corregio ; 218, Leda and the Swan. 
216 ; Io and the Cloud, a repetition of 
that at Vienna, but inferior to it, as the 
flesh seems to have faded, and the 
shadows to have become black. These 2 
pictures formed the gems of the gallery 
of the Pegent Duke of Orleans; his 
son, from prudish motives, cut out the 
heads of Io and Leda, and burnt them, 
and cut the picture of Leda to pieces ; 
luckily they were preserved, and pur- 
chased by Frederick the Great for 
Sans Souci. The existing heads are 
insertions ; that of Io was painted by 
Prudhon, a French artist. The Leda 
was most injuriously retouched by the 
French, who removed the picture to 
Paris, but has been recently restored 
to its original condition, and a new 
head painted for it by a German artist. 
Pinturicchio ; 133, the Adoration of the 
Magi. There is an interesting altar- 
piece by Raphael's father, Giovanni 
Santi. 139, the little child with folded 
arms, opposite to St. John, is supposed 
to represent Raphael at the age of 3 
years. Raphael ; 243, Virgin and Child, 
called Madonna di Casa Colonna ; in 
his best manner. Another Holy Family, 
with the Adoration of Magi, called Ma- 
donna Ancajani, from a family of that 
name at Spoleto, its former owners, is 
the largest picture by Raphael in Ger- 
many, after the San Sisto at Dresden ; 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. PAINTINGS. 



341 



but unluckily it is half destroyed ; in 
many places the colour is so far gone as 
to show the outline and contour of the 
figure, and the various layers of colour- 
ing in proportion as they are worn 
away. Instead of retouching the de- 
fective parts, by which the original 
composition would have been entirely 
obliterated, a finished copy has been 
made by a skilful artist, to give an idea 
of what the picture was when perfect. 
(The original, 150 a, in the 3rd divi- 
vision, is in a side room, of which the 
door is locked, but the attendant of the 
gallery will open it on application.) 
Fra Bartolomeo ; 249, the Assumption 
of the Virgin. Francesco Francia; 122, 
the Virgin in Glory worshipped by 6 
Saints. Giacomo Francia; 287, the 
Virgin and Child, with St. John the 
Baptist. The Magdalen, S. Agnes, S. 
Dominic, and S. Francis. Sabbattini 
da Bologna ; 335, the Virgin on a 
throne with 3 Saints, Ludovico Caracci; 
371, Christ feeding the 5000. Guido 
Rem; 373, the Hermits Paul and 
Anthony discoursing. 

Spanish School. — Murillo ; 414 a, St. 
Anthony of Padua embracing the Infant 
Christ. 

Michael Angelo Caravaggio ; 359, Christ 
in the Garden. Sassoferrato ; 419, Joseph 
and the Infant Christ. Carlo Dolce ; 
423, St. John the Evangelist. Luca 
Giordano ; 441, the Judgment of 
Paris. 

French School. — Nicolas Poussin : 
463, Landscape, with the story of 
Juno and Argus. 467, the Education 
of Jupiter. Lesueur ; 466, St. Bruno. 

Flemish and Dutch Schools, — John and 
Hubert Van Eyck ; 1 2 paintings which 
formed the side wings or shutters of the 
famous altar-piece known as "The 
Worship of the spotless Lamb," in the 
Ch. of St. Bavon, at Ghent, where the 
central portion still remains. (See p. 
129.) They are decidedly the finest 
works which the Berlin Museum pos- 
sesses. They represent, 512, the Just 
Judges ; the man on the white horse 
is the painter Hubert Van Eyck ; the 
figure in black, looking round, is his 
brother John. 513, The Soldiers of 
Christ : here are introduced portraits 
of Charlemagne and St. Lewis. 514, 



Angels singing and playing. 515, 
The Holy Hermits. 516, The Holy 
Pilgrims. At the back of the above 
6 pictures are painted the 6 follow- 
ing. (Once every day the shutters 
are reversed by the guardians of the 
museum ; so that those which were 
exposed in the morning are turned to 
the wall in the afternoon, and visitors 
have an opportunity of seeing both.) — 
517, John the Baptist. 518, Portrait of 
Jodocus Vyts, Burgomaster of Ghent, 
for whom the picture was painted ; the 
expression of piety and devotion in the 
countenance is most truthfully depicted. 
519 and 520, The Annunciation, the 
Angel Gabriel, and the Virgin. 521, 
Elizabeth, wife of Jodocus Vyts. 522, 
St. John the Evangelist. These ad- 
mirable pictures were finished 1432. — 
Roger v. d. Weyde. 534, The Cruci- 
fixion : nothing can exceed the softness 
and minute finish of the female faces, 
while the expression of grief in the 
Virgin and Magdalen is most true to 
nature. — Hans Memling, a series of 
paintings obtained from a convent in 
Mechlin. 535 a, The Birth of Christ.— 
The Sibyl of Tibur announcing the 
Birth of Christ to Augustus.— The 3 
Kings adoring the Saviour. 533 b, 
Elijah fed by Angels. 539, Memling, a 
Jewish family eating the Passover. — 
Quentin Matsys ; 561, Virgin and Child. 
Lucas Cranach ; 593, The Fountain of 
youth. 619, portrait of Melancthon. 
618, portrait of Luther, with musta- 
chios, as the Junker (Squire) George, 
taken while he was concealed in the 
castle of the Wartburg : interesting. — 
Christopher Amberger ; 583, portrait of 
the geographer Sebastian Munster. — - 
Hans Holbein ; 586, portrait of George 
Gyzen, a merchant of London. Rubens ; 
763, The Daughter of the painter. — 
783, The Resurrection of Lazarus. — 
781, St. Cecilia.— 758, Helena Forman, 
his 2nd wife. — Van Dyk ; 782, portrait 
of Prince Thomas of Carignan. 786, 
portrait of a Daughter of Charles I. in. 
a blue dress, with a white lace apron, 
beautifully painted. Had Sir Joshua 
known this picture the Blue Boy of 
Gainsborough need not have been, 
painted. 799, St. John Baptist and 
St. John Evangelist. 787, The Three 



342 



ROUTE 61. BERLIN. NEW MUSEUM. 



Sect. V. 



Penitent Sinners, the Magdalen, the 
Prodigal Son, and King David, before 
the Virgin and Child. — 790, portraits 
of the Children of Charles I. with a 
Dog. — Teniers ; 856, Peasants in an 
Alehouse. 859, The Temptation of St. 
Anthony, a very humorous picture : 
there is a great deal of whim and drol- 
lery in the devils. Under the figure of 
the Saint, Teniers has portrayed him- 
self; the younger woman is his wife, 
with a little hit of a devil's tail peeping 
from under her gown ; the old woman 
was his mother-in-law, a more decided 
devil, with horns and. claws. — Rem- 
brandt ; 802, portrait of Duke Adolph 
of Gueldres, shaking his clinched fist 
at his father; a master-piece of the 
artist ; a powerful representation of 
uncurbed passion. — Jacob Ruisdael ; 884, 
a sea-piece, with Amsterdam in the 
distance. — Jan Both ; 868, a landscape 
with a hunting party. — Be Heem ; 149, 
a flower and fruit piece. — Francis 
Snyders ; 974, a bear hunt. — Balthazar 
Denner ; 1014 a, a portrait of a man, 
elaborately executed, was purchased for 
10,000 dollars (about 1500/.). 

The third division of the gallery is 
occupied with works of the earliest 
period of art, which may be regarded 
as the antiquities of painting , and are 
interesting, almost exclusively in an 
historical point of view, as illustrating 
the progress of the art. They consist 
of Byzantine, Italian, and early German 
and Flemish works. 

In the rear of the Museum, and con- 
nected with it by a covered bridge car- 
ried over the street upon columns, is 
the New Museum, designed by Stiller. 
The exterior is not very remarkable, 
but no one should omit seeing the 
interior. The ground floor contains 
ethnological antiquities, in rooms whose 
architecture accords with the objects 
they contain. Barbarous German An- 
tiquities, celts, arrow-heads, arms, 
&c, and a large bronze idol of the 
Sun, found at Kolin, which is pro- 
bably rather Slavonic than Teutonic. 
A- catalogue is much wanted. — F. S. 
Here are placed the collection of Egyptian 
antiquities, formerly in the Palace of 
Moubijou. These rooms are decorated 
with faithful imitations of genuine ex- 



amples of Egyptian decoration, copied 
on the spot. 

The collection was formed by M. 
Passalacqua and General Minutoli, and 
is one of the most curious in Europe. 
To this have been added the acquisitions 
made by Lepsius, in Egypt. 

An actual temple removed from 
Philoe has been set up here, the parts 
wanting being restored. The pillars 
are coloured as at first, and within are 
statues of gods and kings, Rhamses, &c. 
Three tombs also from the pyramids, 
brought away by Lepsius, have been 
rebuilt. It is lamentable to know that 
the latest additions made to this collec- 
tion by the Prussian expedition in 
Egypt were, procured by the most ruth- 
less and wanton defacement of the 
monuments remaining in that country, 
unworthy of European savans, and such 
as even the barbarous Arabs had re- 
frained from perpetrating. In addition 
to mummies, scarabsei, statues of Apis, 
coins, &c, which may be found in 
other cabinets, there exists here a col- 
lection of arms, implements used in 
various arts, utensils of all sorts, &c, 
highly illustrative of the whole house- 
hold economy of the Egyptian nation, 
as it existed some thousand years ago, 
all in such perfect preservation as to 
give a wonderful insight into the state 
of arts and habits, condition and civili- 
zation of the Egyptians at that remote 
period. 

Specimens of the produce of a great 
many trades are here to be seen. Gar- 
ments nearly as fine as muslin ; a pair 
of braces ! said, by ChampoEion, to have 
belonged to an Egyptian monarch ; san- 
dals ; a medicine chest filled with drugs, 
in alabaster phials, is also supposed to 
have belonged to a king. 

By the side of the figures of the 
various Egyptian deities are placed the 
symbols belonging to each, worn, it is 
supposed, as amulets on the person. 
Among them is a beetle, with the head 
of a sphinx. An assortment of the vari- 
ous kinds of cloth and linen found upon 
the mummies shows great perfection in 
the art of spinning and weaving. 

The objects for the decoration of the 
person include mirrors of brass, pins of 
brass and ivory, necklaces, one of which 



Prussia, r. 61. — Berlin, new museum, royal library. 



343 



was borrowed by the Duchess of Berry 
to wear at a Parisian fancy ball. Spe- 
cimens are shown of the various balsams 
and asphaltum used in embalming. It 
is a curious fact that mummies are now 
imported into Europe for the use of 
apothecaries and painters, on account of 
the bitumen they contain. The instru- 
ments used in embalming, the Ethi- 
opian knives of sharpened flint, and the 
brass hooks with which the brain was 
extracted through the nostrils, are per- 
haps peculiar to this collection. It 
would be tedious to give more than a 
slight enumeration of other objects, such 
as arms, spears, bows, and arrows, &c. ; 
a plough ; a spindle ; distaff, and comb 
for flax ; measures of rope and wood 
divided by knots or notches ; a painter's 
palette and paint-box with sliding lid. 
7 different colours are preserved here. 
Herodotus mentions only 4. Part are 
placed in small shells, as. is the modem 
practice. Writing materials ; archi- 
tect's apparatus ; dice ; weights ; san- 
dals, and shoes of leather and palm- 
leaves ; fishing-nets, with floats formed 
of calabashes ; musical instruments ; the 
flute and sistrum ; mummies of the 
sacred animals worshipped by the 
Egyptians, as cats, fish, serpents, young 
crocodiles, frogs, ibises, lizards, all em- 
balmed and wrapped in cloths ; a human 
monster, without brain or spine, em- 
balmed. It has been described by Geof- 
frey St. Hilaire. Perhaps the most 
curious objects in the whole collection 
are the contents of the tomb of an 
Egyptian high priest, discovered and 
opened by Passalacqua in the Necropo- 
lis of Thebes. The body was enclosed 
in a triple coffin. By the side of it were 
deposited the sacred wand or priest's 
rod, the skull and leg-bones of an ox, 
branches of sycamore, and 2 models of 
Egyptian vessels (such as navigated the 
Nile 3000 years ago), neatly finished 
and completely rigged, having on board 
a dead body, and a party of mourners 
accompanying it to the tomb. 

" Broad stairs lead in a single flight 
from the ground floor to a lofty hall in 
the middle of the building. Here the 
pupils of Kaulbach, Echler, and Muhr, 
have painted after his designs. 1. The 
Destruction of Babel. 2. Ages of 



Greece. 3. Siege of Jerusalem, and on 
the E. side, 4. Battle of the Huns. 
5. Crusades. 6. Reformation. A new 
method of painting in water-colours, 
called Stereo -chromic or Wasserglass- 
Malerei, has been tried. The wall is 
first saturated with ' "Wasserglass,' a 
solution of silica or flint in alkali ; on 
this ground the painting is , executed 
with ordinary water-colours; when 
finished it is again varnished with the 
same preparation, which forms, as it 
dries, a thin transparent coating — a 
true glass, capable, it is said, of resist- 
ing the action of acids. The paintings 
which are finished have somewhat the 
appearance of china painting." — R. The 
rooms on the first floor contain a valu- 
able and extensive collection of casts 
of works of sculpture from the earliest 
Greek down to Thorwaldsen, all beauti- 
fully arranged. One half of the upper 
floor is devoted to the cabinet of Drav:- 
ings and Engravings, including several 
designs for cartoons of Raphael, the 
original sketch for the Dom of Cologne. 
The other half will be set apart for the 
works of art composing the Kunstkam- 
mer, at present in the Royal Palace. 

The principal staircase is to be de- 
corated with a series of colossal statues 
and frescoes — the latter by Kaulbach. 
It has a magnificent timber roof. 

The Royal Library (entrance in the 
Opern - Platz), a tasteless building, 
which owes its shape, it is said, to a 
whim of Frederick the Great, who 
desired the architect to take a chest of 
drawers for his model, contains about 
500,000 vols, and nearly 5000 MSS. 
It is shown to strangers on application 
to the Librarian, "Wed. and Sat., 9 — 
12. Among its curiosities are — Lu- 
ther's Hebrew Bible, the copy from 
which he made his translation, with 
marginal notes in his own hand. The 
MS. of his translation of the Psalms, 
with his corrections in red ink. The 
Bible and Prayer-book which Charles 
I. carried to the scaffold, and gave be- 
fore his death to Bishop Juxon : Gu- 
temberg's Bible of 42 lines in a page 
(on parchment, date 1450-55), the first 
book on which moveable type was used. 
A consular diptych of ivory with re- 
liefs, date 416, one of the earliest 



344 R. 61. BERLIN. PUBLIC READING-ROOM. ARSENAL. Sect. V. 



known. The Codex Wittekindii, a 
MS. of the 4 gospels, given, it is said, 
by Charlemagne to Wittekind (?) ; it is 
of the 9th or 10th cent., and the ivory 
carvings in the binding are in the style 
called Byzantine. Several Ivories (drp- 
tychs) of the earliest Christian times, 
and of Eoman work. An album, with 
6 beautiful miniature portraits, by Luke 
Cranach ; among them are his friends 
Luther, Melancthon, and the Elector 
John Frederick of Saxony. 36 vols of 
engraved portraits of distinguished men 
of various times and countries, accom- 
panied by autographs in alphabetical 
order. Two hemispheres of metal, with 
which Otto Guericke made the experi- 
ments which led him to discover the 
air-pump, are also preserved here. 
When he had exhausted the air be- 
tween them, he found that the force of 
30 horses was unable to separate them. 

The Public Reading-room of the Li- 
brary, where books may be consulted, is 
open daily. Inhabitants of Berlin, and 
even resident strangers properly recom- 
mended, are allowed to take books 
home with them under certain restric- 
tions. There is a private reading-room 
on the ground-floor, in which the new 
books and principal journals of Europe 
are deposited. Admission can be ob- 
tained by a ticket from one of the head 
librarians, which is only given to per- 
sons known to them. It is open daily 
from 10 to 12. 

The University (Unt. den Linden) 
established in 1 809, possesses a high re- 
putation from the talent of its teachers 
and a better system of discipline than 
Jena and Heidelberg. It ranks among 
the first academical establishments in 
Germany, especially as a medical school, 
and is the most numerously attended 
(after that of Vienna), the students 
amounting to 1500. 

The Museum of Natural History is 
within the 1. wing of the building. The 
Zoological Collection is open Tuesdays 
and Fridays from 12 to 2 ; tickets are 
given out the day previous by the Di- 
rector of the Museum. This collection 
is one of the richest and most extensive 
in Europe, especially in the department 
of Ornithology ; it includes the birds 
collected by Pallas and Wildenow, and 



the fishes of Bloch. The best specimens 
are those from Mexico, the Red Sea, and 
the Cape. The whole is exceedingly well 
arranged and named for the convenience 
of students. 

The Minerals are shown at the same 
hours, by tickets given by the director 
who resides in the house. Among the 
curiosities of this collection are — a piece 
of amber weighing 13 lbs. 15 oz., the 
largest known, and worth 10,000 dols. 
It was found at Schlappacken, 20 Germ, 
m. from the Baltic. Malachite from 
Russia. Topazes of 2 distinct colours, 
yellow and amethystine. A mass of 
platina, weighing 1088 grains, and a 
splendid fiery opal, both brought from 
South America by Alex, von Humboldt. 
A large portion of the collections made 
by him during his travels in America 
and Asia are deposited here. 

The Anatomical Museum in the rt. 
wing will be highly appreciated by the 
medical student — it is one of the best 
in Europe, particularly rich in prepara- 
tions of human and comparative ana- 
tomy. It is shown Wednesdays and 
Saturdays, from 4 till 6 in summer — 2 
to 4 in winter, by tickets. 

The Botanic Garden, belonging to the 
University, outside of the town, is de- 
scribed p. 348. 

The Arsenal (Zeughaus), esteemed a 
building of almost faultless architecture, 
was erected in 1695. Above the win- 
dows round the inner court are 22 
masks, admirably carved in stone by 
Schliiter, representing the human face 
in the agonies of death. On the ground- 
floor are cannon and artillery of various 
kinds, such as 2 leather guns, used by 
the Great Gustavus in the 30 years' war; 
a field-piece named die schone Ta\ibe 
(beautiful dove) ; a damasked cannon ; 
2 Turkish pieces. On the first floor are 
ranged 100,000 stand of arms. These 
apartments form a kind of Military Mu- 
seum. Specimens of the arms and ac- 
coutrements used in every army in 
Emope are deposited here. There are 
fire-arms, from those used at the first 
invention of gunpowder to the most 
perfect made in the present day. Many 
ancient weapons and suits of armour — 
one suit belonged to Francis I. ; 7 
bunches of the keys of captured for- 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 61. — BERLIN. PALACES. 



345 



tresses — some taken from the French. 
A standard, and the key of Adrianople, 
taken from the Turks hy the Russians 
in the last war, and presented by their 
emperor. Against the walls and pil- 
lars are hung nearly 1000 stand of 
colours, chiefly French, and bearing the 
dates and emblems of the Revolution. 
They were captured by the Prussians 
in Paris, 1815. In consequence of the 
plunder of the arsenal during the riots 
of March, 1848, some of the interesting 
objects formerly to be seen here may be 
missing. Admission by tickets, which 
may be had of the Commandant opposite 
the Zeughaus, and which the valet de 
place will procure. 

The Palace of Prince Karl, 9, "Wil- 
helms-Platz, fitted up by Schinkel, 
contains a very choice and valuable col- 
lection of armour. A shield of beaten 
silver, with raised groups in the style of 
B. Cellini, and the Kaiserstuhl, an arm- 
chair of bronze, from the Dom in Goslar, 
deserve mention. 

The Palace of Prince Albert, 102, 
"Wilhelms Strasse, also arranged by 
Schinkel, is a handsome building, and 
it is shown to strangers. 

The Palace of Prinz Wilhelm of Prus- 
sia, brother to the king and heir pre- 
sumptive, Unter den Linden, close to the 
library, contains some elegant apart- 
ments. 

Count RaczynsMs Gallery, in a new 
mansion on the Exercier-Platz, outside 
the Brandenburg Gate, eontains inter- 
esting specimens of modern German art 
— the finished Sketch of Kaulbach's 
Battle of the Huns ; a Sposalizio, by 
Ooerbeck; Sohn's Two Leonoras; Leopold 
Robert's last work, &c. ; Cornelius's 
Christ in Limbo. Also fine specimens 
of Bellini, Francia, Luini, Steinle, Ben- 
deman, and Fuhrich. 

The adjoining house of Cornelius con- 
tains his studio, where may be seen the 
cartoons for some of the frescoes for the 
intended Campo Santo. 

Consul Wagner, 5, Bruder-str., has a 
very fine collection of paintings of 
modern German schools, which he readily 
allows to be seen. 

The Iron Foundry (Eisengiesserei), 
outside of the Oranienburg-gate, where 
the well known black cast-iron orna- 



ments are made, was much damaged 
by Republican violence during the at- 
tempted revolution of 1848. A great 
variety of articles, as busts, statues, 
bas-reliefs, copies of pictures, monu- 
mental slabs, joists, beams, and rafters 
for houses, and even bells, are cast here. 

At the time when the final struggle 
commenced between Prussia and Na- 
poleon, the patriotism of the Prussian 
ladies was particularly conspicuous. 
"With the noblest generosity they sent 
their jewels and trinkets to the royal 
treasury to assist in furnishing funds 
for the expense of the campaign . Rings, 
crosses, and other ornaments of cast 
iron, made in this manufactory, were 
given in return to all those who had 
made this sacrifice. They bore the in- 
scription " Ich gab Gold um Eisen" (I 
gave gold for iron), and such Spartan 
jewels are, at this day, much treasured 
by the possessors and their families. 
The black varnish with which the iron 
ware is covered, to prevent rust, is made 
of amber dissolved, and linseed oil mixed 
with lamp black. 

The China Manufactory was founded 
by Frederick the Great : the painting is 
very good, but the porcelain is rather 
thick and heavy. The quality of the 
clay is not good, but great pains are 
taken to purify it by passing it through 
a number of vats. 

The Taub-Stummen-Institut, Institu- 
tion for instructing the deaf and dumb, 
situated in the Linien Strasse, Nos. 81 
and 82, is a very interesting establish- 
ment. 

The Academy of Fine Arts, Unter den 
Linden, was placed by Frederick the 
Great above the Royal Stables ; hence 
some one proposed to inscribe over the 
door " Musis et Mulis." An exhibi- 
tion of modern works takes place here 
annually between September and De- 
cember. 

The Gevcerbe Schule, School for Trade, 
is an establishment of a kind only re- 
cently introduced into Great Britain. 
It is a school for instructing gratuitously 
promising young artisans in drawing, 
modelling, and other branches of the 
fine arts calculated to be of practical 
use in their trade, with a view of im- 
proving the designs of articles of furni- 

q3 



346 



ROUTE 61. BERLIN. ACADEMIES. THEATRES. Sect. V. 



ture and patterns in stuffs of all sorts, 
and the lite. 

The Architectural Academy (Bau- 
schule) S. of the Schlossbriicke, esta- 
blished under the direction of Schinkel, 
is one of the most original constructions 
of that gifted architect, now no more. 
It is of red brick, and the external or- 
naments are of the same material, i. e., 
of terra cotta, or clay moulded and 
baked. "Within may be seen some 
paintings and sculpture, also by Schin- 
kel. 

The Studios of some of the Berlin 
artists deserve to be visited, particularly 
those of the sculptors Rauch and Tieck 
in the Lager Haus, and the painter 
Kxiiger. The house of Cornelius is out- 
side the Brandenburg gates, and near to 
it is the House for Painters' studios, or 
workshops. 

Theatres. — 1. Italian Opera House, 
rebuilt 1845, after a fire, is a building 
of great splendour near the Linden. In 
it German and Italian operas, the na- 
tional drama, and tragedy and comedy, 
are performed, generally 3 or 4 times a 
week alternately with the Schauspiel- 
haus, though in winter the Opera is open 
every day. It holds 2000 spectators. 
The Box-office of the Opera House is not 
in that building, but in the lower story 
of the Schauspielhaus, where tickets are 
given out for both theatres. Opera be- 
gins at 65. 

2. New Play House (Schauspielhaus) 
built by Schinkel, in 1819, lies between 
the two chinches in the Gens d'Armes 
Platz. It is decorated with a good deal 
of sculpture, by Bauch and Tieck, re- 
presenting mythological subjects. The 
performances consist of German and 
French plays alternately : an excellent 
French company resides here perma- 
nently. " It is a great treat to see a 
Greek tragedy, such as the Antigone of 
Sophocles, performed here, the stage 
and theatre being fitted up as nearly as 
possible in the ancient Grecian classic 
style." — Be S. The stage is on the 
second floor of the building, so that it is 
necessary to go up stairs even into the 
pit. Adjoining it is the Concert Room, 
holding 1200 persons, much admired 
for its architectural proportions and the 
taste of its decorations. Besides Con- 



certs, a certain number of Subscription 
Balls take place here in winter. The 
king and royal family are often present. 
Begins at 6. 

3. Konigstadter Theater, in the Al- 
exanderplatz. Begins at 6. 

The Sing Academie (see § 42) is a 
private association of from 200 to 300 
amateurs, male and female, of the re- 
spectable and upper classes, who meet 
together to practise every week during 
the whole year, and give annually 
several delightful concerts, to which the 
public are admitted, in the tasteful 
Grecian building of the Academy, designed 
by Ottmar, behind the Grand Guard- 
house. The performance of sacred 
vocal music is probably not carried to 
greater perfection in any part of Europe 
— the strength of the chorus, and the 
perfect precision and unity of so many 
voices is very striking. This institu- 
tion has been imitated in the Exeter 
Hall Association in London. 

In the new quarter of the town, ris- 
ing on the S. side of Berlin and ap- 
proached by the Kopnickerstrasse, is 
Bethanien (Bethany), acastellatededifi.ee 
erected 1850, and devoted to the chari- 
table purposes of an hospital for the sick, 
who are attended by Deaconesses, 
' ' charitably-minded Christian maidens." 
Both the architectural and economical 
arrangement of this institution are on 
the most liberal scale, and it well merits 
notice. 

The Coliseum, Arte Jacobsstrasse, 
Xo. 51, is a very handsome ball-room, 
designed principally for the Bourgeoisie 
to dance in, but often visited by the 
upper classes as lookers on. 

The Winter Gardens are coffee-houses 
under glass — conservatories filled with 
exotic plants, provided with tables for 
refreshments, and newspapers. They 
are splendid and popular establishments, 
where excellent dinners, music, kc, 
are provided. The best, KrolTs in the 
Thiergarten, was burned down 1850. 
The ices are good. There is a table 
d'hote on Sundays, at 15 Sgr. a head. 

Restaurateurs, where dinner and sup- 
per are served a la carte. The best 
are Mielentz's (formerly Jagor's), Xo. 
28, and Meinhardt's, or Cafe Royal 
(very superior cuisine), Xo. 33, Unter 



Prussia. route 61. — Berlin, railroads' termini. 



347 



den Linden. (Meinhardt's is now an 
hotel, with an excellent table d'hote.) 
Tietz, 25, U. de Linden. Stagge (Cafe 
Belvedere), near the Catholic Ch. Cafe 
de la Gaite, Charlotten Strasse, 60. The 
tables d'hote at Berlin being dear, many- 
natives as well as travellers resort to 
the restaurateurs. Peculiar delicacies 
of the Berlin cuisine are the Sandra, or 
pike-perch, a very delicate fresh-water 
fish, Teltower Ruben (very small and 
sweet turnips, resembling parsnips in 
shape, from Teltow, a neighbouring 
village). 3 or 4 is the fashionable hour 
of dinner in Berlin. 

The Merchant's Club is over the Ex- 
change, to which a banker will intro- 
duce you to read the papers. An 
introduction from the English minis- 
ter will procure admission to the Club 
of Nobles. Newspapers of all coun- 
tries may be seen at the Zeitungs Halle 
Oberwall Strasse, No. 12 and 13. 

The Confectioners' shops (Condito- 
reien), corresponding nearly with the 
cafes of Paris, supplying ice, coffee, 
newspapers, &c, become the general 
lounge and resort about 1 or 2 o'clock, 
it being a usual practice here to take 
a cup of chocolate in the middle of the 
day. The best are Steheiys, 36, Char- 
lotten Strasse, behind the Schauspiel- 
haus, where French, German, and Eng- 
lish journals, including the" Times 
end Galignani, are taken in. Josti, 1. 
Stechbahn (good bon bons) ; — Krans- 
ler, 25, U. d. Linden (capital ice) ; 
Fuchs, 8, IT. d. Linden, superbly fitted 
up by Schinkel and Stiller ; Spargna- 
pani, U. d. Linden, 50 ; Koblank, 44. 

The lower classes resort to the wine 
and beer-houses (Bierlokale), which, in 
splendour, may vie with the gin palaces 
of London, and are nearly as much 
crowded, and as injurious to public 
health and morals. The best are (where 
men sup after the theatre), — for Berlin 
"Weissbier, Volpi, Stechbahn, 3, and 
Mohren Strasse, 37 a. ; Klausing, Zim- 
mer Strasse, 80; — for Bavarian beer, 
Happold, Griin Strasse, 1; Wallmiiller, 
Jagcr Strasse, 33. 

"The porters of Berlin are a pe- 
culiar race, celebrated all over Ger- 
many. They are called ' Eckensteher,' 
from their habit of collecting at the 



corners (Ecken) of the streets (like 
their Highland brethren in Edinburgh). 
They have a badge on their arm, and 
are readily known by their original 
humour. They bandy sharp words, 
in their peculiar Berlin dialect, with 
great effect. Nante Strumpf, the Sam 
Weller of Berlin, has been made the 
representative of this class." — Howitt. 

The best shops are in the Unter den 
Linden, Schloss Platz, Breite Strasse, 
in the Bauschule, and between the 
Schloss and the Opera House, Konigs 



Strasse, and Behren Strasse 



Among 



the articles peculiar to Berlin, and best 
worth purchasing, are the trinkets, 
ornaments, busts, bas-reliefs, &c, of 
cast-iron ; the pictures in transparent 
China (Lithophanies). Gropius Bazaar, 
Georgen Strasse, No. 12, isworth avisit. 

Pistor and Martins, the best makers 
of philosophical instruments, 34, Mauer 
Strasse, sell admirable microscopes. 

Schropp, map-seller, 24, Jager Strasse, 
publishes good maps, a geological map 
of Europe, a chart of the moon, and 
many others of great excellence and 
use to travellers. 

Railroads' Termini — to Potsdam, 
Magdeburg, and Hanover, outside the 
Potsdam Gate ; — to Leipzig and Dres- 
den, outside the Anhalt Gate ; — to 
Hamburg, outside the New Gate ; — 
to Stettin, outside the Oranienbiu-g 
Gate ; — to Frankfurt on the Oder and 
Breslau, near the Stralauer Platzw 

Schnellposts to Danzig, Konigsberg, 
Posen, Eostock. The office (Melde- 
zimmer, § 33, 46), in the inner court 
of the Post-office, Konigs St., No. 60, 
and Spandauer St., 19 — 22, is open from 
7 a. m. to 8 P. M. 

Environs. — The gates of the city 
were originally named after the places 
to which they led, but the great lines 
of high roads have been so much 
changed, that it is not now the Halle 
Gate, but the Potsdam Gate, which 
leads to Halle, nor the Hamburg Gate 
which leads thither, but the Branden- 
burg Gate ; and to proceed into Silesia 
you issue out of the Frankfurt, not the 
Silesian Gate. 

At Tegel, 7 m. beyond the Oranien- 
burg Gate, is the seat of the late Wm. 
von Humboldt. In the garden is a 



348 



ROUTE 61. BERLIN. CHARLOTTENBURG. 



Sect. V. 



monument to his wife, a statue of Hope 
upon a pillar, the work of Thorwdldsen. 
In the churchyard outside of the Ora- 
nienburg Gate, are buried Fichte, Hegel, 
and Schinkel. 

About 1 4 mile • outside of the Potz- 
dam Gate, near the village of Schone- 
berg, is the Botanic Garden, The 
conservatories and palmhouses are on 
a large scale. Palms are seen growing 
in them to a height of nearly 30 ft. 
It is open to the public on Friday. 
Strangers may obtain admission at other 
times. 

Outside the Halle Gate, which termi- 
nates on the S. the avenue of the Fried- 
richs Strasse, a street 3 m. long, in the 
Belle- Alliance-Platz, rises the Friedens 
Denkmal, a pillar of granite, surmounted 
by Victory, by Bauch, erected 1840, to 
commemorate the Peace which had then 
lasted 25 years. 

About \ a mile beyond the Halle 
Gate is a low sandhill called the Kreutz- 
berg, almost the only eminence near 
Berlin, and commanding a tolerable 
view of it. It is named from a Gothic 
Cross of cast iron, 160 ft. high, upon its 
summit, called Volks Denkmal (People's 
Monument), erected by the late king, 
as a memorial of Prussia's recovery of 
independence from the French, and 
thus inscribed : " The King to his peo- 
ple, who at his call nobly offered life 
and property to their country ; a monu- 
ment to the fallen; an acknowledgment 
to the living ; an example to posterity." 
Schinkel designed it, and Bauch and 
Tieck executed the statues of Prus- 
sian warriors in the niches, and the 
bas-reliefs representing the principal 
victories gained by the Prussians — as 
Gross- Gorschen, Leipzig, Katzbach, 
Paris, Belle Alliance. The whole was 
cast in the Eoyal Iron Foundry. 

In the Invaliden-Kirchhof, close to the 
Hamburg Railway terminus, are the 
graves of Scharnhorst, Tauentzien, 
Pirch, "Witzleben and many other brave 
Prussian soldiers who fell in the .war 
with France. A Corinthian pillar sur- 
mounted by an eagle, has been set up 
in the Invalids' Garden, as a monument 
to the soldiers whose names are in- 
scribed on its base, who fell in defend- 
ing the city and their sovereign from 



the lawless revolutionary rioters of 
1848 and 1849. 

Immediately beyond the Branden- 
burg Gate commences the Park (Thier- 
garten), an extensive plantation, inter- 
spersed with flower beds, with open 
spaces here and there, and ponds, 
coffee-houses, &c, among them, and 
dull, except when thronged with people 
on a fine Sunday afternoon. A statue 
of the late king was erected in Aug., 
1849, near the Louisen Insel, — a site 
which that prince converted from a 
wilderness into a park. About 1 m. 
beyond the Brandenburg Gate is the 
royal palace of Bellevue, containing 
many paintings by modern German 
artists, such as — Zessing, Hussite Ser- 
mons ; — Kohler, David's Triumph; — 
Begas, Death of Abel ; — Sohn, Bape of 
Hylas ; — Hasenpflug, the Erfurth and 
Magdeburg Cathedrals ; — Hermann, 
Chateau of Stettin ; — Catel, Boman 
Pfifferari ; — Fridler, Amphitheatre at 
Pola ; — Schmidt, Hallstadt in the Salz- 
kammergut, &c. &c. Half an hour's 
drive beyond the Brandenburg Gate, 
behind the Hofjagers, is the Zoological 
Garden, containing the Boyal Mena- 
gerie, once the Pfauen Insel. It re- 
sembles that in the Begent's Park. It 
is open daily ; admission 5 Sgr. N.B. 
" Man hiite sich vor Taschendieben " — 
beware of pick-pockets ! 

Two excursions should on no account 
be omitted — one to Charlottenburg, which 
will not take more than 3 hours — the 
other to Potsdam, about 19 m. Bail- 
road trains go thither 6 times a-day. 
Bte. 62. 

Excursion to Charlottenburg. — The 
road thither, about 3 m. long, passes 
through the Brandenburg Gate, and 
forms a long straight avenue through 
the Thiergarten, bordered, as it ap- 
proaches Chaiiottenbiu'g, by many 
country houses of the citizens. 

Charlottenburg itself is a small 
village on the Spree, made up chiefly 
of villas and taverns, the summer resi- 
dence of the rich, and the summer re- 
sort of the humbler classes from Berlin. 
The Palace (Schloss) " was built by 
Frederick I., who married an English 
princess, Sophia Charlotte, daughter of 
George I., which will account for the 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 62. — BERLIN TO MAGDEBURG. 



349 



English aspect of its interior. Many 
rooms are furnished with taste and 
magnificence. Here are several good 
pieces of sculpture, as a head of our Sa- 
viour by Rauch." — Ld. F. The Gar- 
dens behind it are exceedingly pretty, 
and are at all times open to the public. 
The entrance to them is through the 
Orangery, at the extremity of which is 
the Theatre, where the Berlin com- 
pany performs generally twice a- week, 
in summer. The gardens are the great 
resort of Sunday strollers from Berlin. 
They are prettily laid out, varied by 
the windings of the Spree, and by sheets 
of water, abounding in carp of large 
size and great age. Visitors are in the 
habit of feeding them with crumbs, and 
collect them together by the ringing 
of a bell, at the sound of which the fish 
may be seen in shoals, popping their 
noses out of the water. 

The object of greatest interest at 
Charlottenburg is the monument of 
Louisa Queen of Prussia^ the most 
beautiful and amiable, and at the same 
time unfortunate princess of her day. 
She is buried within a small Doric 
Temple at the extremity of a shady 
walk, in a retired part of the garden. 
The Castellan residing in the palace 
keeps the key, and will show the mo- 
nument to strangers. It is allowed to 
be the master-piece of the sculptor, 
Eauch. The figure of the queen re- 
poses on a marble sarcophagus. It is 
a form and face of the most exquisite 
beauty, but, at the same time, a most 
perfect resemblance. " The expression 
is not that of dull cold death, but of 
undisturbed repose. The hands are 
modestly folded on the breast ; the atti- 
tude is easy, graceful, and natural. 
Only the countenance and part of the 
neck are bare, the rest of the figure is 
shrouded in an ample and extremely 
well-wrought drapery. The great 
charm of the figure is the decent, sim- 
ple, tranquil air, without any striving 
after effect. I observed no inscription 
— no pompous catalogue of her titles — 
no parading eulogy of her virtues ; the 
Prussian eagle alone, at the foot of the 
sarcophagus, announces that she be- 
longed to the house of Hohenzollern, 
and the 7 withered garlands which still 



hang above her, were the first offerings 
of her children at the grave of their 
mother." — Russell. The late king is 
buried here by the side of his queen. 
A recumbent statue of him " with his 
martial cloak around him," by Rauch, 
is placed beside that of his queen. On 
either side is a white marble candela- 
brum, that with the Fates by Rauch, 
that with the Three Muses by Tieck. 

In the course of the autumn, gene- 
rally in September, a Grand Review of 
the garrison takes place in the neigh- 
bourhood of Berlin ; 20,000 troops 
are sometimes collected, and the ma- 
noeuvres last several days. " To see 
the reviews to advantage a uniform is 
desirable, though not absolutely neces- 
sary. A good horse warranted to stand 
fire may be hired for a louis a day ; 
with these you may ride on the ground 
and join the staff, which sometimes 
amounts to 500 officers of all nations. 
The reviews are generally held on the 
ground near the Kreutzberg. The 
field manoeuvres usually take place 
between Charlottenburg, Spandau, and 
Potsdam. They last several days, the 
regiments bivouacking at night. The 
operations begin each day about 9. 
Ladies in carriages are enabled to see 
the whole by the good arrangement of 
the gendarmerie. A carriage with a 
pair of horses may be hired for the day 
at 5 thalers (15s.)."— T. R. S. 

ROUTE 62. 

BERLIN TO MAGDEBURG, BY POTSDAM 
AND BRANDENBURG. — RAILWAY. 

18^ Pruss. m. = 85| Eng. m. 

Trains to Potsdam six times a day, 
in 45 minutes. 

To Magdeburg 3 trains daily in 4| 
hours ; Terminus (Bahnhof) outside 
the Potsdam Gate. The line proceeds 
past country-seats, taverns, and coffee- 
houses, the resort of the citizens, leaving 
on the rt. the Botanic Gardens and 
village of Schoncberg, in sight of the 
Iron cross on the Kreutzberg on the 
1. to 

2 Zehlendorf Stat. — Beyond this the 
road passes through a wood of firs. 
About 2 m. before reaching Potsdam, 
on the rt., is the Peacock Island, 
(Pfauen-Insel), surrounded by the 



350 



ROUTE 62. POTSDAM. CHURCHES. 



Sect. V. 



Havel. It was a favourite summer 
retreat of the late king of Prussia, 
originally a rabbit-warren, but con- 
verted into pleasure-grounds. The 
scenery of the lake itself is picturesque, 
more especially when contrasted with 
the monotonous sandy plains round 
Berlin. The Peacock Island has faEen 
into neglect since the death of the late 
king. 

3£ Potsdam Stat. — Inns : Einsiedler 
(Hermit) ; Deutsches Haus (German 
House) ; Goldner Adler. There is a 
good Restaurant at the Bahnhof. The 
hotels have greatly fallen off. M. 
Scholtz is recommended as a good 
guide to Potsdam and its neighbour- 
hood, being honest and well informed. 
He is to be heard of at the Einsiedler. 

Potsdam, the Prussian Versailles, 
lies on the rt. bank of the Havel, which 
here expands into a lake with finely 
wooded, picturesque, sloping banks ; 
it has 40,000 inhab., including a large 
garrison. Founded by the Great Elec- 
tor of Brandenburg, it became the re- 
sidence of the Prussian Princes during 
the rising fortunes of the Royal house, 
but it owes all its splendour to Fre- 
derick the Great. It may be called a 
town of palaces, not only from the 4 
Royal residences in and about it, but 
because even the private houses are 
copied from celebrated edifices, each of 
which may comprise within it the 
dwellings of many families. The dull- 
ness of the streets, indeed, often con- 
trasts singularly with the splendour of 
their architecture. The 4 Palaces (that 
in the town, Sans Souci, the Neue 
Palais, and Charlottenhof ) can be seen 
in 3 hours, by taking a drosky and com- 
missionaire from the railway station. 

The principal buildings are — The 
Garnison Kirche (Ch. of the Garrison). 
Frederick the Great is buried beneath 
the pulpit, in a plain metal sarcophagus 
above ground. His sword, originally 
laid upon it, was carried off by Napoleon, 
and all traces of it are lost ; but over 
the tomb, on each side of the pulpit, 
now hang the eagles and standards 
taken from Napoleon's armies by the 
Prussians ; a fitting retribution, and as 
it were an atonement, to the shade of 
the hero for this paltry theft. The 



other coffin of marble, in the same 
vault, is that of William I. Around 
the walls of the church, tablets inscribed 
with the names of the brave soldiers 
who distinguished themselves, and pe- 
rished during the war of Liberation, 
are suspended. 

The Mew Ch. or Nicholaikirche, op- 
posite the Schloss, built, 1830-37, by 
Schinkel, is of the Corinthian order, 
surmounted by a dome. The fronton 
of the portico, and the soffit of the 
chief door, are ornamented with bas- 
reliefs of the Resurrection and Sermon 
on the Mount, but the outside is not- 
very successful. The interior is splen- 
did, decorated with fresco paintings "on 
a gold ground, of the 12 Apostles, 
&c, by the first artists of Berlin and 
Dusseldorf. The ornamental cornices, 
the capitals of the columns, the pulpit, 
and the balustrades, are of zinc, which 
is cheaper, because more easily cast 
than iron, and strong enough. 

Close to the long bridge which leads 
from the stat. into the town is the Lust- 
garten, and contiguous to it the Resi- 
denz or Royal Palace, built 1660- 
1701. It contains little worth seeing, 
except the apartments of the Great Fre- 
derick, which remain nearly as they 
were when he was alive. Here are 
shown his writing-table blotted all over 
with ink, his inkstand, music-stand, 
piano, with music composed by himself 
in his own writing, green eye-shade, 
book-case filled with French works, and 
the chairs and sofa which he used, 
their silken covers nearly torn off by 
the claws of his dogs, and stained with 
the marks of the plates from which they 
were fed. The truck bed on which he 
slept, despising any more comfortable 
couch, stood behind the silver balus- 
trades, but has been removed because 
it was worn out, and almost pulled to 
pieces by relic-hunters. Adjoining the 
bed-room is a small cabinet with double 
doors provided with a table which as- 
cends and descends through a trap-door 
in the floor, while plates and dishes were 
removed by another trap- door. Here 
the monarch could dine tete-a-tete with 
a friend, •without being overheard or 
overlooked, while the dinner was served 
without requiring the presence of a 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 62. — POTSDAM. SANS SOUCI. 



351 



servant. The singular smoking club, 
or Tabacks-Collegium, established by 
Frederick the Great's father, used to 
hold its eccentric and boisterous meet- 
ings in the building called Haus am 
Bassin. 

Potsdam is the birthplace of the 
late king of Prussia, Frederick William 
III., to whom a statue by Kiss has 
been set up in the Wilhelmsplatz, 
and of the distinguished traveller and 
philosopher Alexander von Humboldt. 

The view from the Brauhausberg 
should not be passed over ; it includes 
Potsdam and all its numerous palaces, 
the intricate windings of the Havel, 
and the beautiful green islands which it 
encircles — a very pleasing prospect. 

Sans Souci. — The Gardens begin a 
few hundred yards outside of the Bran- 
denburg Gate, W. of Potsdam. The 
entrance is about 2 an hour's walk from 
the stat. and near it a Ch. in the style 
of a Basilica, partly copied from that of 
Murano near Venice, has been built 
from the plans of Persius. The gardens 
are laid out in the stiff formal French 
taste, with alleys, cut hedges, statues, 
basins, &c, and have lately been put 
into perfect order. A broad avenue 
runs through them ; at the extremity 
of it lies the New Palace. Near to 
Potsdam, and on the rt. of the avenue 
is the Palace of Sans Souci, b. 1745-47, 
by Frederick the Great, on the top of a 
flight of step-like terraces. They are 
fronted with glass, beneath which grow 
vines, olives, and orange-trees. Fre- 
derick, who took much pride in his 
gardens and hot-beds, complained once 
to the Prince de Ligne of the climate 
and soil under which his orange-trees 
and vines were pining. " Sire," re- 
plied the courtier, "it appears that with 
you nothing thrives but your laurels." 
The Palace, restored and fitted up as a 
residence for the present King, but 
without altering its original character, 
stands on the highest terrace ; it is a 
low, and not a handsome building, but 
the colonnade behind is fine. At the 
extremities of this terrace are the graves 
of Frederick's favourite dogs, and of 
his horse that carried him through 
many of his battles. By his will he 
directed that he himself should be 



buried among them, an injunction which 
was not complied with. This spot was 
the favourite resort of the old warrior ; 
here he was brought out in his arm- 
chair, surrounded by his dogs, a short 
while before his decease, to bask in the 
sun. " Je serai bientot plus pres de 
lui," were nearly his last words. With- 
in the building may be seen his bed- 
room where he breathed his last ; a 
clock, which he always wound up with 
his own hand, but which, being for- 
gotten at last, stopped at the moment 
of his death, and still points to the hour 
of his decease, 20 minutes past 2. A 
portrait of Gustavus Adolphus hangs 
on the wall, its sole ornament ; the bed 
and arm-chair of Frederick have been 
removed. Voltaire's apartment is also 
pointed out at some distance from that 
of his Boyal host ; its walls are co- 
vered with figures, which are pictorial 
epigrams on Voltaire's character or 
habits ; e. g. a monkey, meant as a 
portrait ; parrots from his volubility ; 
stork, from his migrations, coming in 
summer, quitting in winter. In the 
gallery hang some paintings by Watteau. 
On the rt. and 1. of the palace, but 
in separate buildings, are the state 
apartments and the Picture Gallery ; 
but as all the best pictures are removed 
to Berlin, much time need not be 
wasted upon it. Among those that 
remain is one tolerable picture, a Vir- 
gin and Child, by Bubens, and there 
are many by his pupils and imitators, 
Van Tulden and the like, of inferior 
merit and value. 

Frederick the Great was not satisfied 
with his reputation as a general ; he 
must be considered a man of taste, 
and a judge and patron of art ; and as 
he knew nothing about it, and still 
would possess a picture gallery, he was 
most egregiously cheated and imposed 
upon by the agents and picture dealers 
whom he employed; paying enormous 
sums for worthless pictures, and re- 
jecting others of very high merit. 
Thus a painting of Lot and his Daugh- 
ters, sold to him for 30,000 ducats, as 
a Raphael of the highest excellence, 
turns out to be the work of a second- 
rate Flemish master, Floris, and worth 
not more than 50/. He rejected the 



352 



ROUTE 62. — POTSDAM. WINDMILL. 



Seet. V. 



Holbein now in the Dresden Gallery, 
which is esteemed the best work of that 
master. 

The famous Windmill of Sans Souci 
stands close behind the palace, and still 
belongs to the decendants of the miller 
who refused to yield it up to Frederick, 
when he wanted to puU it down and 
include the ground in his own gardens, 
which are rather confined on that side. 
" The original mill was a very small 
one ; but after Frederick lost the law- 
suit against the miller, he erected for 
him the present one on a much larger 
Scale." Some years ago adverse cir- 
cumstances compelled the owner of the 
mill to make up his mind to part with 
it. He in consequence offered it for 
sale to the late king, who, instead of 
availing himself of the opportunity, 
generously settled on the miller a sum 
sufficient to extricate him from his 
difficulties, and enable him to maintain 
himself in his property ; saying that 
the mill now belonged to Prussian his- 
tory, and was in a manner a national 
monument. 

The broad walk, before mentioned, 
leads from the foot of the terraces of 
Sans Souci to the New Palace (Neue 
Palais), about 2 m. from Pqtsdam, a 
vast brick building erected at enormous 
cost by Frederick, by way of bravado, 
at the end of the Seven Years' War, to 
show his enemies that his finances were 
not exhausted. It was built in six years, 
between 1763 and 1769, on a spot pre- 
viously a morass. It contains 72 apart- 
ments, and exhibits many remains of 
gaudy magnificence ; marble has been 
most profusely lavished on the walls 
and floors ; and one large apartment is 
lined entirely with shells and minerals, 
in very bad taste. There are still some 
tolerable paintings by Schneyders, and one 
or two very excellent Luca Giordanos. 
In the small library is a copy of the 
works of Frederick the Great, " Des 
CEuvres Melees du Philosophe de Sans 
Souci. Avec privilege d'Apollon." 
This copy is a curiosity, as it contains 
many notes in the hand-writing of Vol- 
taire, some of them severe and cutting- 
criticisms. Thus, finding the word 
plat in three or four consecutive lines 
of the same poem, he writes " Yoici 



plus de plats que dans un tres bon 
souper." At another place he writes, 
" S'il faut conserver cette epigramme, 
il faut la tourner tout autrement." He 
points out a piece of false grammar 
thus, " On ne dit pas louer a." The 
remarks, however, are not all in this 
cutting tone, and in other parts the 
margin is plentifully sprinkled with 
" admirable," " rien de mieux ;" while 
at the end of one of Frederick's letters 
is written, " Que d' esprit ! de grace, 
d' imagination ! qu'il est doux de vivre 
aux pieds d'un tel horn me ! " The 
offices for servants, contained in the 
building called Communs, facing; the 
New Palace, are now converted into 
barracks for the trained infantry — a 
draft from every regiment in the Prus- 
sian service — who are instructed and 
replaced every year by fresh corps, the 
old ones being distributed through the 
army to introduce uniformity in the 
drill and regulations. 

In the building called the Antique 
Temple, close to the New Palace, is a 
statue of the late Queen of Prussia. It 
is an improvement on that at Char- 
lottenburg, the result of 15 years' 
thought and study on the part of the 
sculptor, Rauch : it is even more 
beautiful and touching. It is no larger 
than life, and represents her asleep. 

Sans Souci. Sunday, Tuesday, and 
Thursday the Waterworks play. The 
main fountain rises in a jet 130 feet 
high. 

The Gardens abound in temples, pa- 
godas, &c. The view from the Chinese 
tower on the height is extensive and 
pleasing. 

"Within, the gardens of Sans Souci 
stands Charlottenhof, a villa built by 
the present king, when crown prince, 
in the style of a Pompeian dwelling ; 
following as nearly as possible the 
arrangement and dimensions of the 
houses of Pompeii. It exhibits the 
utmost taste and elegance. In the 
beautiful garden is an exact imitation 
of a Pompeian bath, built for use as 
well as ornament, and beautifully deco- 
rated with frescoes. The fountains, an 
antique altar, and several statues and 
bronze, were brought from Hercula- 
neum or Pompeii. 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 62.— BRANDENBURG. 



353 



N. of Potsdam lies still another pa- 
lace, called the Marble Palace, from the 
extensive use of marble in its decora- 
tions, upon which, however, it is not 
worth while to waste much time. More 
deserving of notice is the Russian Colony, 
or village, situated nearly in the same 
direction. It consists of 11 houses, 
built entirely after the Russian fashion, 
and given by the late king, with a piece 
of land, to a party of Russians sent 
hither by the emperor. The little 
Chapel belonging to the colony, sur- 
mounted by three bulb -shaped domes, 
like those of the Kremlin, is beautifully 
fitted up, and adapted to the Greek 
church service, with paintings, silk 
curtains, and silver plate. 



On quitting Potsdam the railroad 
cross the Havel, leaving the palace and 
gardens of Sans Souci on the right. 

Werder Stat. A small town in a 
lake formed by the Havel. 

Gross- Kreutz Stat. 

4. Brandenburg Stat. — Inns : H. 
de Brandenburg ; Schwarzer Adler ; 
Weisser Schwan ; Goldner Engel ; Re- 
staurateur at the Station. A town of 
15,600 inhab. on the Havel, the quarter 
called the Burg, in which the Cathedral 
stands, being on an island in the river. 
It is the seat of considerable commerce. 

The Dom. The crypt is probably of 
the 10th century, the nave of the 10th, 
and the rest was built about 1318. It 
was restored in 1836 by Schinkel. At 
the principal entrance are reliefs satir- 
ising the monks, such as a fox preach- 
ing to a congregation of geese. The 
interior is ornamented with antique 
statues and paintings representing S.S. 
Magdalen, Benedict, Bernard, and Ur- 
sula, with the Fathers of the Church of 
the year 1518, in the style of Mat. 
Griinewald. Here are the tombs of 3 
Episcopal Margraves. In the choir is 
a richly carved altar with figures of the 
Virgin, St. Peter, and St. Paul (1518). 
In the crypt is the old bishop's throne. 
In the chamber of antiquities adjoining 
the Ch. is a model of the Marienkirche, 
a very curious monument of Byzantine 
architecture of the 12th century, de- 
stroyed in 1722. In a second chamber 



are some curious relics once held in 
great veneration here, e. g. a stud from 
the bedstead of the Virgin ; the manger 
out of which Joseph's ass fed in the 
flight into Egypt ; the pocket of David's 
sling ; the head of Goliath's staff and 
his purse, &c. 

The Ch. of St. Katherine, built 1401, 
and of brick, but richly decorated ex- 
ternally, contains a brass font adorned 
with many figures, by F. Morner, 1440, 
and several curious monuments. 

St. Gotthard's Ch., b. 1324, contains 
a font of the 12th century. 

The Rathhaus is a fine Gothic monu- 
ment, and several of the town gates 
deserve notice, In the market-place is 
a Rolandsaule 18 ft. high. 

1^ Wusterwitz Stat. On the lake of 
Plauen, which is connected with the 
Elbe by a canal. The rail runs near 
the canal on its S. side. 

2 1 Genthin Stat. Inn, Goldene Stern. 

Gusen Stat. 

3^ Burg. Stat. Inns kept by Roland 
and Schroeder. A busy and flourishing 
town of 11,000 inhabs., }th of whom 
arc engaged in the manufacture of cloth, 
established here originally by French 
Protestant emigrants. 

Hohenwarte Stat. 

3| Magdeburg Stat. Rte. 66. 

The Elbe spreads itself out, and forms 
several islands, which are crossed in 
coming from Berlin : on one of them 
stands the citadel. 

ROUTE 63. 

BERLIN TO LEIPZIG. — RAILWAY. 

29 Prus. m. =137 Eng. m. Trains 
in 6| hours. 

Terminus outside the Anhalt gate. 

On quitting Berlin the Kreutzberg 
is passed on the left, soon after the 
tower of Teltow rises on the right. 

2 A Gross- Beeren Stat, The Church, 
with its seven turrets, is seen on the 
left. An Obelisk, ornamented with a 
cross, commemorates the victory of 
Aug. 23, 1813, gained here by the 
Prussians under Billow, over the French 
under Oudinot. 

Ludwigsfelde Stat. 

2 (rt.) Trebbin Stat., a town of 1400 
inhab. 



354 



ROUTE 63. WEINTRAUBE. LUTHER'S HOUSE. Sect. V. 



2 (1.) Luckenwalde Stat., a town of 
5000 inhab,, on the Nuthe, famed for 
its manufacture of broad clotb. 

(1.) In a wood, near the convent of 
Zinna, the monk Tetzel was waylaid 
and robbed of the money he had ob- 
tained by selling indulgences. 

If (1.) Jiiterbog Stat. — Inn, Post. 
This ancient Wendic town of 5000 
inhab. is 1 m. from the railroad. In 
the Ch. of St. Nicholas is preserved 
the Indulgence-box (Ablasskasten) of 
Tetzel, Luther's antagonist, who was 
waylaid by a robber knight, Hans von 
Hacke, as he was returning with it 
filled with gold, the produce of the 
pardons he had sold. Tetzel had pre- 
viously granted the knight an indem- 
nity for any sins he might commit. 
"It is a large wooden coffer, hooped 
with iron, having a slit on the top ; and 
from the figure which it makes in the 
history of the Keformation, is an object 
of curiosity." — Ld. F. 

The Railroad to Dresden (Rte. 65) 
turns off here. 

A little beyond Jiitterbog, on the 
1., is Dennewitz, another battle-field 
where the Prussians under Biilow were 
successful, Sept. 6, 1813, against the 
French, under Key and Oudinot. 
10,000 French were taken prisoners, 
and Berlin saved from falling into their 
hands. A monument of the battle has 
been erected near Nieder-Gorsdorf. 

2 j (1.) Zahna Stat. 

l| Wittenberg Station affords 
sleeping accommodation and capital 
veal cutlets to regale hungry passen- 
gers. Wittenberg (Fnns : Weintraube 
and Stadt London) is a fortified town 
on the rt. bank of the Elbe, 7000 in- 
hab., dirty and ill paved. 3 or 4 hours 
will suffice to see it. It has been 
termed the Protestant Mecca. It was 
the cradle of the Reformation, since it 
was in this place that Luther openly 
engaged in opposition to the Church of 
Pome, and denounced its evil practices 
and abuses. He was professor of theo- 
logy and philosophy at the once famous 
University (founded here by the Elector 
of Saxony, now removed and incorpo- 
rated with that of Halle), which it will 
be remembered is mentioned by Shak- 
speare as the school where Hamlet 



studied. Luther and his friend Me- 
lancthon are both buried in the Schloss 
Kirche ; two tablets of bronze inserted 
in the pavement mark their graves. 
Here are also the tombs of Frederick 
the Wise and John the Steadfast, Elec- 
tors of Saxony, the friends of Luther 
and of the Reformation. The monu- 
ment of Frederick is a fine work of 
art, by Peter Vischer ; his bronze statue 
is full of life, and of a noble character, 
while the Gothic work of the niche in 
which it is placed also deserves notice. 
Here is a coronation of the Virgin, also 
by P. Vischer. Against the doors of 
this church (burnt by the French, re- 
placed by others of metal), Luther hung 
up his 95 theses or arguments condemn- 
ing the doctrine of papal indulgences, 
which he offered, after the fashion of 
the times, to defend against all comers. 

Luther's house or lodging in the old 
University Bundings, formed out of the 
ancient Augustine Convent, where he 
lived after his marriage, still remains 
almost unaltered. In it are kept his 
chair and table at which he wrote, the 
jug from which he drank, his stove 
made according to his own directions 
with peculiar devices, his professor's 
chair, 2 portraits of him by Cranach, 
and a very curious cast of his face after 
death. Over one door is the auto- 
graph, in chalk, of Peter the Great, 
now covered with glass to protect it. 
These two places are shown by the 
same person who lives near the Post, 
and are at opposite ends of the town. 
In the way between are pointed out 
the houses of Cranach and Melancthon, 
and at the Elster Gate, immediately 
beyond the house of Luther, is the 
Oak Tree planted on the site of that 
under which Luther burnt the Papal 
Bull, Dec. 10, 1520. 

In the Market Place in the middle 
of the town, beneath a Gothic canopy 
of cast iron, is a bronze statue of 
Luther, by ScJiadow, erected 1822 : on 
one side of the pedestal are the lines 

" Ist's Gottes Werk, so wird's bestehen, 
Ist's Menschenwerk, wird's untcr£e- 
hen." 

(If it be the work of God, it will en- 
dure ; if of Man, it will perish.) 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 63.— WITTENBERG. DESSAU 



355 



On another — 

" Eine fcstc Burg ist unser Gott." 

Close to this is the Rathhaus, which 
is shown by a man who is to he found 
at the door. It contains portraits of 
Luther and Melancthon, with their 
contemporary professors, by Cranach, 
who was burgomaster here ; also a 
singular picture painted by him 1516, 
illustrative of the 10 commandments, 
according to the old division ; — also 
an original portrait of Gustavus Adol- 
phus, his sword, which he left as a 
present after a visit to the sights of 
Wittenberg, and among other relics 
and curiosities illustrating the history 
of the Reformation, the top of Luther's 
sacramental cup, and his rosary which 
he carried when a monk. 

In the Stadt Kirclie, close at hand, 
is the bronze font by Herman Yischer, 
1457, at which Luther and Melancthon 
baptized. Here also (though not from 
the existing pulpit) Luther preached. 
" Here are two curious pictures by Cran- 
ach : — 1 . The altar-piece representing 
the 4 sacraments ; the Lord's Supper, 
in which the painter himself appears as 
a servant ; Baptism, in which Melanc- 
thon officiates ; Preaching, in which 
Luther addresses a congregation of 
which the two foremost figures are his 
wife and son ; Penance, administered 
by Bugenhagen. 2. In one of the aisles 
a painting represents the Vineyard of 
the Lord as misused by the Pope and 
his followers, and well cultivated by the 
Reformers."— W. S. 

"Wittenberg has suffered severely 
from sieges. In 1760, the chief public 
buildings and one-third of the town 
were destroyed by the Austrian bom- 
bardment. It was taken by the Prus- 
sians under Tauentzien, from the 
French, by storm, in 1814, after a siege 
of ten months, during which the sub- 
urbs were laid in ruins. 

The railway, proceeding along the 
rt. bank of the Elbe, enters the terri- 
tory of Anhalt-Bernberg. 

1^ Kosswig or Coswig Stat. 

An old town of 2800 inhab., on the 
rt. bank of the Elbe, well placed, but 
behind it is a sandy desert. [3 m. from 
this, on the opposite bank of the Elbe, 



is Worlitz, (Inn, Eichencranz,) the 
Prince of Anhalt Dessau's summer 
residence, famed for its Gardens, or 
Park as it is termed, which are among 
the finest in Germany, and though in 
a flat, are worth a visit. The great 
beauty of the trees, many fine speci- 
mens of American oaks, and the good 
keeping of the place, are remarkable. 
They may be reached from Coswig by 
a ferry, 1 m. below the town. The 
gardens are separated from the Elbe 
by a high embankment which is ren- 
dered ornamental by plantations, and 
commands a good view ; their great 
feature is a fine lake, from which 
streamlets and canals are conducted to 
all parts : temples, bridges, and other 
buildings, are profusely scattered 
through the grounds. The Neumark 
garden occupies 3 islands. In Schoch's 
garden is a Gothic house, containing 
paintings by old German masters, L. 
Cranach, &c, a bas-relief carved in 
wood by A. Diirer, some old ar- 
mour, and other curiosities. In 
order to visit Worlitz the railway 
should be left at Kosswig, and a car- 
riage hired as far as Dessau, another 
railroad stat. (or vice versa if the tra- 
veller is going to Berlin). Oranien- 
baum, a ducal palace, may be seen be- 
tween Worlitz and Dessau.] 

2|Roslau Stat. A town of 1000 
inhab., at the junction of the Rossla 
with the Elbe. Here is a ruined 
Castle of the princes of Anhalt-Kothcn. 

The railway is next earned over 
the Elbe by a bridge of 721 feet long, 
approached by several smaller bridges, 
and shortly afterwards it crosses the 
Mulde. 

f Dessau Station, outside the Akcn 
gate. Dessau, capital of the dukedom 
of Anhalt-Dessau, is a town of 12,000 
inhab., on the left bank of the Mulde, 
which enters the Elbe a little below it, 
(Inns : Beutel ; Ring ; Hirsch.) Owing 
to a conflagration which consumed the 
town (1467), it has no ancient build- 
ings. The Ducal Palace is the prin- 
cipal edifice ; it was built 1748, and 
contains a Library, in which arc many 
MSS. of Luther, a cabinet of curiosi- 
ties, jewels, antiques, &c. ; and a Pic- 
ture Gallery, including a painting 



356 



ROUTE 63. — KOTHEN. HALLE. 



Sect. V. 



which calls itself a Raphael, but with- 
out just claim. 

In the Schloss Kirche, a building of 
the 16th cent., is a celebrated Last 
Supper by Cranach, who introduced 
into it portraits of the chief agents 
and promoters of the Reformation. 
Here the ducal family are buried. 
Moses Mendelssohn was born at Dessau. 

The vicinity of Dessau, originally 
a sandy waste, has been converted into 
gardens, which form its chief orna- 
ment : these are called Georgengarten, 
Loaisium, and Sieglizerberg : but more 
remarkable by far are those of Worlitz, 
7 m. from Dessau ; see above. 

Kothen, or Cothen, is a central 
station on the railroad, where the 
lines from Berlin, Magdeburg (Rte. 
64), Bernburg and Leipsig meet. 
Trains are here changed, and a halt of 
half an hour takes place in conse- 
quence. 

The station-house, built by the Duke 
of Anhalt-Kothen, includes a refresh- 
ment room, where a good dinner may 
be obtained, and a Gaming-house, where 
passengers may lose their time and cash 
during the balf-hour they are compelled 
to wait here. This establishment, so 
discreditable to the ducal founder, has 
been built expressly since the completion 
of the railway. 

Kothen is a town of 6000 inhab. 
[Inns : Grosser Gasthof ; Prinz von 
Preussen), and residence of the Duke 
of Anhalt-Kothen. 

[A branch railway runs from Kothen 
to Bernburg on the Saale, a distance 
of 2f Pruss. m., done in £ hr. The 
Stations are 1£ Biensdorf, 1~ Bernburg 
(Inn : Goldne Kugel) capital of the 
duchy of Anhalt-Bernburg, with 7000 
inhab., on the river Saale. The Schloss 
stands on the summit of a height rising 
precipitously from the Saale ; its oldest 
part is a keep tower called Eulenspiegel, 
more than 120 ft. high ; the rest of the 
edifice was erected in the 15th and 17th 
centuries. It is now the residence of 
the Erbprinz, and contains a collection 
of family portraits. The Marienkirche 
was founded in the 10th cent., but re- 
paired internally in 1811 ; above the 
choir are statues of 8 princes of the 
house of Anhalt. St. Nicholas, in the 



new town, is also an old church. A 
coach twice a day thence to Quedlin- 
burg.] 

The line to Leipzig leaves, a little 
on the 1., the old Wendic town of 
Zorbig, near to 

2| Stumsdorf Stat. ; and on approach- 
ing Halle, passes, on the rt., the ruined 
castle Giebichenstein, once a state prison 
of the emperors of Germany, out of 
which the Landgrave Louis of Thurin- 
gia, imprisoned by the Empr. Henry 
IV., escaped by leaping from a win- 
dow. 

2i Halle Stat. — Inns: Englischer 
Hof ; Stadt Zurich ; Kronprinz ; all 
good : Railway Hotel (zur Eisenbahn). 
A town of 27,000 inhab., on the Saale, 
principally remarkable for its Univer- 
sity, founded in 1694-, by Frederick I. 
of Prussia, to which that of "Witten- 
berg was transferred in 1815. The 
average number of students at present 
is 750, It is especially renowned as 
a school of Protestant theology. Its 
professors, Tholuck and Gesenius (lately 
dead), rank as the 2 most eminent 
Hebrew scholars of the age. The hand- 
some University building, outside the 
town, was built 1834. Near it is the 
new Zuchthaus (Penitentiary). 

Halle is an antiquated town, possess- 
ing several curious architectural monu- 
ments, among them the Red Toicer, 
standing isolated in the market-place, 
and not far from it 

The Marktkirche, an elegant Go- 
thic building, completed 1554, flanked 
by 4 towers, 2 of which, joined by a 
bridge, are inhabited by the custos. 
It contains a remarkable picture by 
Lucas Cranach, turning on a pivot, 
and opening with 4 shutters : the chief 
subjects are the Annunciation, and 
the Madonna and Child on the crescent, 
surrounded by angels, with the Cardl. 
Albert of Brandenburg (for whom it 
was painted, 1528) in the corner, and 
a back ground of landscape. The wings 
or shutters bearing figures of saints. 
[Apply to the Kuster, who lives in the 
house next the ch., to open this picture.] 
The altar-piece (the Sennon on the 
Mount) is by Hubner, an artist of the 
Diisseldorf school. The Marriage of 
St. Catherine is likewise by Cranach. 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 63. — HALLE. LEIPZIG. 



357 



High, up against the triforium is a co- 
loured medallion head, probably of 
terra cotta, of Luther, inscribed " Sanc- 
tus Doctor M. Lutherus, Propheta 
Germanise, " &c. 

The MoriUhirche, in the lower part 
of the town, near the Salt "Works 
(built 1156, choir 1388, restored 1840), 
a small but fine Gothic church, elabo- 
rately vaulted, with stone pendants de- 
scending from the roof, has a very 
remarkable altar-piece of carved work, 
20 feet high, in the style of the Cus- 
todias of Israel von Meckenen, date 1488. 
The centre opens and discloses niches, 
each filled with a bas-relief from our 
Lord's Passion, painted and gilt. On 
the outside are 10 paintings of the 
"Westphalian school, also on shutters. 
The pulpit is of sandstone, elaborately 
carved in the style of a later period 
(1588) 'and gilt. The stem bears the 
representation of Sin, Death, and the 
Devil (the Temptation of Eve) ; the 
other carvings are scriptural subjects 
from the Creation to the Crucifixion. 

In the Residenz, once palace of the 
Archbishop, occurred the humiliation 
of the unfortunate Philip Landgrave 
of Hesse, who was here obliged to 
throw himself at the feet of the Emp. 
Charles V., after the defeat of the Pro- 
testants at Muhlberg, 1547. 

The Orphan House (Waisenhaus), in 
the suburb of Glauca, called from its 
founder (1698), who was a clergyman 
and professor of Halle, Franke's Institut, 
is a liberal and munificent establish- 
ment. It embraces also schools for 
the education of children of both sexes, 
and of various stations, though chiefly 
of the poorer classes, to the number of 
2220 ; a Laboratory, where medicines 
are prepared and distributed, and a 
Printing Office for Bibles, which are 
sold at a low price. Franke began 
without funds of his own, with no 
resource but a reliance on Providence. 
The building is now ornamented with 
an admirable Statue in bronze of the 
Founder, by Ranch, raised to his me- 
mory by a public subscription, to which 
the late King of Prussia largely contri- 
buted. 

The name Halle (Greek a\s ?) is 
derived from the Salt Springs, which 



have been known from veiy remote 
times. The labourers employed in them 
are a peculiar and distinct race, called 
Halloren, supposed to be the descend- 
ants of the Wends, who anciently peo- 
pled this country. They are said still 
to preserve the physiognomy, customs, 
and even costume of their ancestors. 
Some of the springs rise within the 
town, and are boiled there, but the 
Eoyal Salt Works (Salinen) are situated 
without the walls on an island in the 
Saale. The brine is pumped up by a 
steam-engine, and is conveyed to them 
in pipes ; it is strong enough to be fit 
at once for boiling ; the fuel used is the 
brown coal, which abounds in this 
neighbourhood. The annual produce is 
220,000 cwt. of salt, valued at 125,000 
dollars ; it forms almost the sole article 
of commerce, excepting porcelain earth, 
found near Halle, and used in the China 
works at Berlin. 

Outside the walls, on the E., is an 
elegant monument to the soldiery who 
died here of the wounds received in 
the battle of Leipzig, 1813. The old 
castle of Moritsburg was reduced to 
a ruin during the Thirty Years' war. 
Carding thistles and carraways are 
largely cultivated in this neighbour- 
hood : it also furnishes the greater 
portion of what are called Leipzig 
Larks, which are caught by the Hal- 
loren, and sent to Leipzig as dainties 
for the table. 

Railway to Weissenfels, Weimar, and 
Eisenach (Route 86). 

An interesting excursion may be 
made from Halle to Krollwitz, and 
Giebichenstein (see p. 356). 

2i Schkeuditz Stat. 

Ascending the valley of the Elster, 
we pass (1.) the battle-field of Breiten- 
feld, where Gustavus Adolphus defeated 
Tilly, 1631. On the highest ground 
upon the field, 2 m. from the Railway 
(1.), is a monument surrounded by 8 
fir trees. Mockern, close to the line 
(rt.), distinguished by its ch. spire, was 
a fiercely contested point during the 
battle of Leipzig, between the troops of 
York and Marmont, until Blucher 
drove back the French. 

If Leipzig. (Rte 86.) Terminus 
between the suburbs of Halle and 



358 



routes 64 — 66. 



Sect. V. 



Grimma, close to that of the Dresden 
Railway. 

EOUTE 64. 

MAGDEBURG TO LEIPZIG BY KoTHEN. — 
RAILROAD. 

15| German m. = 73 English m. 

Trains 3 times a day, in 3j hours. 

Terminus in Magdeburg, at the 
Fiirstenwall, close to the Elbe bridge. 

Magdeburg is described at p. 365. 

The train, on quitting the fortifica- 
tions, passes near the celebrated Fort 
Sternschanze, p, 365. 

2 Schoneck Stat. 

There are considerable salt works 
here and at Gross-Salza on the right. 

(1.) Gnadau is a Moravian colony. 

The most considerable work on this 
line is the bridge, 1370 ft. long, resting 
on 30 piers, by which the railroad 
is carried over the river Saale near 
Grizena. 

1| Saale Stat., situated 1 m. below 
Kalbe, an old town of 4000 inhab. 

rt. The towers of Bernburg (p. 356 
are just visible from the railroad. (1. 
Aken, a Prussian town of 3200 inhab., 
near the Elbe, is seen before reach- 
ing 

2^ Kdthen Station, where the lines to 
Berlin and Leipzig meet (see Rte. 63), 
and where the train stops half an hour, 
p. 356. 

Leipzig Station. (Rte. 86.) 

ROUTE 65. 

BERLIN TO DRESDEN. — RAILWAY. 

25| Germ. in. = 117 Eng. m. 

Trains twice a day each way, morn- 
ing and afternoon, in 6 hours. 

As far as 

8^ Juterbog is described in Rte. 63. 
From Juterbog the railway (lOf Germ, 
m.) runs W. of the old post road, pass- 
ing by (1.) Herzberg and (rt.) Muhl- 
berg (see Rte. 87), and falls into the 
Leipzig and Dresden railway, opposite 
to Riesa. See, for the railroad thence 
to 

65 Germ. m. Dresden, and descrip- 
tion of Dresden, Rte. 87. 



ROUTE 66. 



OVER, BRUNSWICK, AND MAGDEBURG. 
— RAILWAY. 

To Minden, 35 Germ. m. — Hanover 
43^." — Brunswick, 53. — Magdeburg, 
66f. — Berlin, 86| = 403 Eng. m. 
Trains in about 22 hours. 

The Station is in Deutz, on the op- 
posite side of the river to Cologne. 
There is a steam ferry below the bridge 
of boats, opposite to the station. 

i Muhlheim Stat. 

1^ Kiippersteg Stat. 

1 Lengelfeld Stat. 

1 Benrath Stat. 

1 Dusseldorf Stat. See R. 34, p. 234. 

1 Kalkum Stat. \ m. from Kaisers- 
werth, p. 233, and not far from Schloss 
Heltorf, p. 235. 

1 Grossenbaum Stat. 

3 Duisburg Stat. See Rte. 34. 

After leaving Duisburg," the line, 
which has hitherto run in nearly a N. 
direction, turns to the E., and crosses 
the river Ruhr, about half-way between 
Duisburg and 

1 Oberhausen Stat. There are ex- 
tensive coalfields on the banks of the 
Ruhr, and about 4 m. S. of this station 
lies Muhlheim on the Ruhr, an indus- 
trious town of 6400 inhab., where 
steam engines are made. It is con- 
nected with the main line by a branch 
railroad. 

1 Berge-Vorbeck Stat. 

1 Essen Stat. The town, 2~ m. from 
the Railway (Frischens and Brockhofs 
Inns), is not seen from the line. In its 
handsome Minster hang a huge bronze 
7 -armed chandelier, gift of Mechtildis, 
sister of the Emperor Otto III., 998. 
Chimneys rise on all sides. After leav- 
ing this, until the next station but one 
is reached, the line passes over a rich 
coalfield, in working which many steam 
engines are employed. 

1 Gelsenkirchen Stat. 

1 Herne-Bochum Stat. 

1 Kastrop Stat. 

1 Mengede Stat. 

1 Dortmund Stat. Inn, Romischer 
Kaiser, 6500 inhab. This ancient city 
was once a free city, and seat of the 



Vehme. Charlemagne had a villa here. 



Prussia. 



COLOGNE TO BERLIN. 



359 



In the Bahnhof itself was the place of 
meeting of the most celebrated of all 
the tribunals held in the district of the 
" Red earth." Under j the two lime- 
trees still growing on the W. side of 
the station, the naked sword of justice 
and the willow- wythe were laid upon a 
stone table before the assembled judges. 
In the Marienkirche and in the Domini- 
can Ch. are some curious paintings by 
native artists, V. and H. Dunwege 
(1521-23). Dortmund is now a place 
of considerable manufacturing industry. 
Here the Railway W. from Elberfeld 
and the Duchy of Berg joins the Minden 
line. (See Rte. 67, p. 368.) 

The railroad then passes through the 
extremely fertile district called the 
Hellweg, which is the northern part of 
the Grafschaft Mark. 

2 Kamen Stat. [A little to the S. of 
this lies Unna. — Inn, Konig von Preus- 
sen. Between this town and the station 
are the very extensive salt works, sup- 
plied by brine springs, and the newly 
opened baths of Konigsborn. Here was 
the head-quarters of the Vehmgericht 
(see p. 368). ] 

2 Hamm Stat. Here branch Rail- 
ways turn off N. to Munster (see Rte. 
69), and E. to Paderborn and Cassel 
(Rte. 68). Hamm on the Lippe is the 
principal town of the Grafschaft Mark, 
and has 3700 inhab., 3 Protestant 
churches and 1 Catholic. Across the 
Lippe. 

3 Beckum Stat. 
1 Oelde Stat. 

1 Rheda Stat. The Ems, which falls 
into the sea at Emden, is crossed. 

1 Gutersloh Stat. — Inn, Rioter's. His 
Westphalian hams, and the spirit ex- 
tracted from wacholder berries, called 
steenhager, are celebrated. The best 
Westphalian hams are to be had at 
Giitersloh, and cost about 4 groschen 
a-pound. The black bread (pumper- 
nickel) is also famous. 

2 Brackwede Stat. 

1 Bielefeld Stat. — Inns: Deutsches 
Haus ; Ravensberger Hof. The centre 
of the "Westphalian linen trade ; a town 
of 6000 inhab. On a neighbouring hill 
rises the round tower of the Castle 
Sparcnberg, erected 1545 and fortified 
according to A. Durer's system, on the 



site of an older Guelphic fortress. This 
fine old castle is turned into a prison. 
The surrounding country of the Teuto- 
burger Wald and the walks around the 
town are pretty. A coach goes hence 
to Pyrmont daily in summer. There is 
a good road to Detmold from Bielefeld, 
3 G. m. 

It is supposed that Hermann (Ar- 
minius) fought the great battle against 
the Romans (Clades Varana) some- 
where on the banks of the Senne : and 
the numerous tumuli on its banks, with 
the urns and other funeral remains 
found in and about them, confirm the 
belief. (See Rte. 68 and 69 a.) Near 
Brake a Viaduct 1200 ft. long is crossed. 

2 Herford Stat. — Inns: Preussischer 
Hof; Stadt Berlin. On the Werre, a 
small stream ; 6700 inhab. The Abbey, 
called Monchkirche, of great antiquity, 
as well as some other old buildings, de- 
serves the artist's attention. At Engers, 
5 m. to the E., is shown the tomb of 
Wittekind, chief of the Saxons. This 
now obscure village was the seat of the 
government of Wittekind, the most for- 
midable opponent of Charlemagne. 
About 20 m. S.E. lies Detmold. (See 
Rte. 69 a.) 

1 Rehme Stat. — Inn, Post. Here are 
considerable salt-works belonging to the 
Prussian government; the salt water 
obtained by boring to a depth of 3220 ft. 
is converted into brine, fit for boiling, 
by causing it to evaporate in trickling 
over stacks of faggots. Mineral waters 
have been discovered in sinking the 
Artesian well for the brine ; and to 
accommodate patients who flock to avail 
themselves of their medicinal proper- 
ties a new colony or watering-place, 
called Regerhauscn, is springing up. — 
W. L. The railroad here crosses the 

river. 

2 Porta Stat. 

Within about 2 m. of Minden the 
railroad traverses the celebrated pass 
called Porta Westphalica. It is a rent 
in the chain of mountains called We- 
sergebirge, through which the river 
Wcser finds a passage to the sea not 
unlike the gorge of the Neckar at Hei- 
delberg, except in having a plain above 
as well as below the pass. The hills 
on either side of this breach, the "door- 



360 



COLOGNE TO BERLIN. 



Sect. V. 



posts," as it were, of the gates, are 
called Jacobsberg and Wittekindsberg ; 
the last is named from a castle of the 
Saxon hero which once stood on it, and 
is now replaced by a Belvedere or stone 
tower. Near it is a ruined chapel in 
which, according to the tradition, Witte- 
kind was baptized by Charlemagne, 
The view from the tops of these hills is 
very extensive. The Weser, the high 
road on its 1. bank and the railroad on 
its rt., fill up the pass. Here are quar- 
ries of fine building-stone (sandstone). 

1 Minden Stat, (carriages changed 
here). — Travellers going towards Co- 
logne, who have joined the train be- 
tween this and Brunswick, should re- 
member that here they enter the 
territory of the Zollverein, and that 
luggage is examined. If they omit to 
see that their luggage is passed through 
the custom-house, they will find, on 
reaching Cologne, or any of the interme- 
diate stations on the line, that it has been 
left behind in the Minden custom-house. 
On entering the State of Hanover from 
the territory of the Zollverein, luggage 
is usually examined at the station at 
which the traveller leaves the train. 

Minden (Preussisch) — Inns, Eisen- 
bahngasthof , tolerable ; Stadt London ; 
Stadt Bremen — is a strong fortress, 
belonging to Prussia, with 10,000 inhab, 
including garrison, on the "Weser, which 
is crossed by a stone bridge, 600 ft. 
long, built in 1518, separating the Prus- 
sian territory from the domains of Lippe- 
Schaumburg. It was the residence of 
several early German Emperors, and 
many Diets were held here. The Ca- 
thedral is a fine building, remarkable 
for the fan-shaped tracery of its win- 
dows (13th cent.). In it is a curious 
painting by H. Aldegrever, a West- 
phalian artist, early in the 16th cent., 
of Wittekind coming to Charlemagne to 
be baptized. Both it and the Ch. in 
the Proviant Platz are in the pure 
early pointed style. 

Herr Kruger's cabinet of pictures 
contains early works of German mas- 
ters, and specimens of the Westphalian 
School of Art. 

The Westphalian Museum contains 
some interesting curiosities. The for- 
tifications were blown up by Frederick 



the Great at the end of the seven years' 
war, but have since been renewed and 
lately enlarged on account of the rail- 
way. The French blew up one arch 
of the stone bridge 1813, and it is re- 
placed by a wooden one. 

N. of the town, around the village of 
Todtenhausen, lies the field of the 
Battle of Minden, gained by Prince 
Ferdinand of Brunswick over the French 
in 1 759. The victory would have been 
more complete had the English cavalry 
advanced ; and their commander, Lord 
George Sackville, was in consequence 
tried, and deprived of his military rank. 
Some doubts, however, have been enter- 
tained of the justice of the sentence of 
the court=martial ; and it is even sup- 
posed that the confused orders which 
prevented the advance of the British 
arose from the jealousy of the Germans. 

Steamers on the "Weser, down to Bre- 
men, and up to Minden. (Bte. 74 a.) 

Biickeburg Stat. (Inns : Heutsches 
Haus ; Berliner Hof) is the chief town 
of the little principality of Schaumburg- 
Lippe, and contains 2000 inhab. The 
prince resides in a large and ugly 
Palace, with a pretty garden and park. 
[About 9 m.'from Biickeburg, through 
Eilsen (a sulphur bath) , Arnsburg, and 
Berusen, rises the Paschenburg, one of 
the highest hills on the Weser (1115 ft.), 
surmounted by an Inn: a very extensive 
view — looking down upon the old castle 
of Schaumburg, the course of the Weser 
discerned in 19 different spots, the 



Brocken, 



the Grolenberg, 



and about 



100 towns and villages.] 

Stadthagen Stat. The handsome 
mausoleum of Prince Ernest, attached 
to the church, deserves notice. 

Haste Stat. [About 4 m. S. of this 
lies JNenndorf, a watering-place belong- 
ing to the Elector of Hesse, who has a 
chateau here. Strangers are accom- 
modated in the three bath-houses, and 
there is a table-d'hote daily, during the 
season, in the Arkaden Saal. The 
waters are cold and sulphureous, and 
are used for di'inking as well as for 
baths.] 

Wunstorf Stat. Here is the junction 
of the Railroad from Bremen. The 
Leine river is crossed rt. Herren- 
hausen Palace (see p. 362). 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 66. — HANOVER, 



361 



Hanover Stat. — Hanover (Germ. 
Hannover) — Inns : Royal Hotel, close 
to the railway, good (bedroom with 
waxlights 14 g. gr. ; breakfast 5 g. 
gr. ; dinner 12 g. gr. ; servants 4 g. gr. ; 
porter and boots extra) ; British Hotel ; 
H. de Strelitz; Romischer Kaiser; 
H. dc Hanovre — the capital of the 
kingdom of Hanover, is situated in a 
plain on the Leine, a small stream, and 
has 42,500 inhab. It does not make an 
imposing appearance at a distance, and 
within it is somewhat dull, and does 
not contain much to interest a stranger, 
nor are its trade and manufactures of 
great importance. Recent improve- 
ments, however, in its streets and 
houses, and the permanent residence of 
the Court since 1837, are making con- 
siderable changes for the better 

The Royal Palace (Schloss) is a 
handsome building, and is fitted up in 
a style of considerable splendour. The 
Ritter Saal is a fine apartment. There 
is a large collection of portraits in this 
palace : among them the most interest- 
ing are those of Elizabeth Queen of 
Bohemia; Geo. I., II., III., and IV. ; 
¥m. IV. ; the Duke of Wellington on 
a grey horse, by Lucas ; Napoleon be- 
fore Ratisbon, Adolph Adam. The 
Plate-room (Silberkammer) is shown, 
but application must be made before- 
hand. Here is a very important col- 
lection of mediseval antiquities, relics, 
&c, some of them brought from the 
Holy Land by Henry the Lion, under 
the care of the Ober Hof-Commissar. 
The departure of George I. from Han- 
over to ascend the throne of England 
occasioned little or no alteration in his 
court ; the same number of chamber- 
lains, and an equally large stud of 
horses, were maintained at the expense 
of the country. Even court levees were 
held regularly every Sunday, with this 
difference — that, instead of the Elector, 
his portrait was placed on the state 
chair at the end of the apartment. 
Every courtier, as he entered, bowed to 
it as he would have done to the original ; 
and while the ceremony lasted no one 
spoke louder than a whisper. 

The finest buildings are collected 
around the square called Waterloo Platz, 
which serves also as a parade-ground. 

[n. g.] 



N". the picturesque Schloss, encircled 
by the Leine ; S. the Waterloo Column, 
162 ft. high, surmounted by Victory, 
and inscribed with the names of the 
Hanoverians, privates as well as officers, 
who fell in the battle : on either side 
barracks. E., in the background, the 
Cadettenhaus ; W., on a hillock, stands 
a circular Temple, enclosing Leibnitz's 
bust (damaged by stones thrown at it). 
The new Theatre (1851), close to the 
Railway Stat., is one of the most strik- 
ing modern buildings in Germany. The 
Royal Stables are filled with black and 
cream-coloured horses, of the stock 
from which are derived those which 
draw the state carriage of the Queen of 
England. 

In the old town several quaint Gothic 
houses still exist. The Raihhaus is 
curiously ornamented on the outside, 
and a neighbouring church quaintly 
built of red brick. Leibnitz's house, 
with stone ornaments and scriptural 
bas-reliefs in its front, is in the Schmiede 
Gasse, a corner house. 

The Scholsskirche, a handsome church, 
contains some relics collected by Henry 
the Lion. In the vaults beneath it are 
buried George I. and his mother, the 
Electress Sophia. 

The Royal Library contains 40,000 
volumes. Leibnitz's arm-chair, in 
which he studied and breathed his last, 
and a great number of his MSS. and 
some unconnected notes, scribbled on 
scraps of paper of all sizes, are also pre- 
served here. Among the books are 
" Cicero's Offices," printed on vellum 
by Fust, at Mayence. At the elid is 
the date, 1465, with a statement that 
the book was executed " neither with a 
pen, nor a pen of brass, but by a certain 
art." The " Biblion Pauperum," — an 
illuminated missal, given by Charles V. 
to Henry VIII. "The Book of Esther," 
written with a pen, and illustrated by 
costly drawings, deserves notice. A 
large collection of autograph letters of 
remarkable persons are also included in 
this library. 

The Picture Gallery of BaurathHaug- 
mann is important. 

The Estates of Hanover assemble in 
an elegant modern building called 
Landschaftliches Hans. 

R 



362 



ROUTE 66. — BRUNSWICK. MUSEUM. 



Sect. V. 



Herschel, the astronomer, was born 
here ; he was originally musician in the 
royal hand ; Leibnitz and Zimmermann 
died here ; Zimmermann is buried in 
the public cemetery, Leibnitz in the 
Neustadter Kirche. The brothers Schle- 
gel and Iffland were also natives of 
Hanover. 

A grand avenue of limes more than a 
mile long extends from the town to the 
Royal Palace of Herrenhausen. It is 
a low tasteless building, and is now 
deserted and out of order, but contains 
some royal portraits connected with 
English history. It was the favourite 
residence of George I. and II., and was 
built by the former for his mistress, 
Countess Platen : his smoking-room is 
still preserved. The Gardens, laid out 
in a formal style with straight walks, 
lined with high clipped hedges, which 
in one place are made to form a sylvan 
theatre, and carpeted with turf, contain 
statues, fountains, and splendid jets- 
d'eau. The Electress Sophia, mother 
of George I., and granddaughter of 
James I., dropped down dead while 
walking in these gardens. In the Royal 
Mausoleum is a monumental effigy of the 
late Queen of Hanover, Frederica, by 
Eauch. 

Mont Brilliant, J m. out of the town, 
on the 1. going to Herrenhausen, is 
the summer residence of the present 
King. 

Railways : to Bremen, Rte. 72 a; to 
Hamburg, Rte. 59. 

Schnellposts daily to Cassel. 

Lehrte Stat. Here is the junction 
of the lines from Harburg (Rte. 59) 
and Hildesheim. (Rte. 72.) 

Peine Stat. 

Vechelde Stat. 

Brunswick (Germ. Braunschweig) 
Stat, (carriages changed here). — (Here 
the territory of the Zollverein begins, 
and luggage is examined: see above 
at Minden.) — Inns: Rheinischer Hof, 
and next to it Das Deutsche 
Haus ; H. d'Angleterre ; H. de Prusse ; 
Prinz Wilhelm. The capital of the 
Duchy and residence of the Duke of 
Brunswick is a very ancient town on 
the Ocker, with 38,000 inhab. ; cleanly 
in its streets, and displaying much pic- 
turesque architecture in its antique 



houses, many of wood, with dates on 
them of 1488-91-92. The latter half 
of the 14th, and beginning of the next 
century, was the golden age of Bruns- 
wick, when it became a place of great 
commercial importance, and a leading 
member of the Hanse League. It is no 
longer fortified, but surrounded by plan- 
tations and Walks, which occupy the 
site of the former ramparts. 

The Palace or Residenzschloss is a 
magnificent and tasteful building, 
erected from the designs of Ottmer, 
supplying the place of that called Graue 
Hof, which was burnt in 1839 by the 
mob. It is handsomely furnished, and 
contains an interesting picture of M. 
Theresa's children. A party may see 
it by paying a fee of 2 dollars, but it is 
scarce worth it ; the garden only, which 
is open to the public, being worth 
seeing. 

The Museum, in the Zeughaus (Ar- 
senal), near the Cathedral, well arranged 
and kept, consists of — 1. Gallery of 
Paintings, containing many works of 
high merit, particularly two Jan Steens, 
the best pictures by that artist, pro- 
bably, existing — one represents a Mar- 
riage Contract, the other a Musical 
Party; Van der Heist, a woman and 
child; Holbein, Sir Thomas More ; Rem- 
brandt, two excellent portraits, in his 
clear manner, of Grotius and his wife, 
and a good landscape ; Mierevelt, fine 
portraits of a Count and Countess of 
Nassau ; Giorgione (?) Adam and Eve, 
a very good picture, though it is per- 
haps incorrectly assigned to this master 
— it is more probably a work of Palma 
Vecchio ; Steenwyk, the Deliverance of 
St. Peter, a large picture ; a fine Guido ; 
a portrait said to be by Raphael ; 
Teniers, Sen., a Chemist; Schwartz, an 
Old Man ; 162, Ruysdael, a Waterfall ; 
G. Dou, his own Portrait ; 314 and 327, 
Alb. Diirer, 2 Portraits; 473, Rembrandt, 
with his Wife and 3 Children; ditto, 
466, an Entombment ; 449, Honthorst, 
Boy with Flute. 160 pictures out of 
this collection were transported to 
Paris by the French. The greater part 
were originally in the gallery at Salz- 
dahlum. 

2. A collection of Natural History of 
second-rate excellence : it includes some 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 66. — BRUNSWICK. CATHEDRAL. 



363 



very perfect fossil bones of the Cave 
Bear from the Harz. 

3. Classical Antiquities. — Statues, 
bronzes, &c., from Greece and Italy. 
The famous Mantuan Vase of onyx was 
carried away by the former Duke 
Charles. • 

4. Antiquities, and "Works of Art of 
more recent times. At the head of 
them must be placed an exquisite carv- 
ing in steatite by Albert Diirer, repre- 
senting St. John preaching in the Wil- 
derness. It is a masterpiece of its kind. 
Some of the figures are detached and 
finished all round, and in one or two 
instances, where their backs are turned 
outwards, it will be found that the faces 
are made out with the utmost delicacy 
and beauty, though there is barely 
room to pass the blade of a knife behind 
them, a fact which increases our ad- 
miration of the dexterity of the artist. 
Here are preserved the uniform of 
Frederick the Great, worn at Mollwitz, 
in the Seven Years' War ; uniform and 
sword which the Duke of Brunswick 
carried at Qnatre Bras; and Luther's 
ring. There are many other valuable 
objects of art and vertu : rich silver 
plate ; carvings in ivory, amber, wood ; 
also a crucifix by M. Angelo, with bas- 
reliefs in silver by Ben. Cellini ; and a 
collection of Majolica, amounting to 
1000 pieces, perhaps the finest in 
Europe. This collection suffered by its 
trip to Paris ; many of the finest speci- 
mens being found missing on its return. 
It was formerly kept at the castle of 
Salzdahlum. French enamels made at 
Limoges, collected by Tavernier to take 
to Persia — a very fine collection. 
Xociusko's cup carved in prison. Fine 
MSS. of the Gospels, 1000 or 1100; 
others with rich gold and ivory 
covers. 

The Museum is open to the public 
daily, except Monday, from 11 to 1 ; at 
other times admittance can only be ob- 
tained by special application to the 
Director, and by payment of a fee of 
2^ dollars. 

The Dom or Cathedral of St. Blaize 
(patron of Brunswick) is a plain, solid 
structure in the Norman style, of great 
antiquity, 1176-1250, begun by Henry 
the Lion, one of the most illustrious 



princes of the House of Guelph (from 
whom the royal family of England are 
descended), after his return from a pil- 
grimage in the Holy Land. It has 
recently been repaired and cleared of 
whitewash, by which some very curious 
frescoes (Italian in style) of the 13th 
century, have been laid bare. The N. 
aisle is of much more recent date (1469), 
and is supported by lythe, twisted, or 
screw pillars, of the utmost elegance, 
and very unusual. The altar in front 
of the roodloft is a slab of Purbeck 
marble, supported by 5 bronze pillars ; 
it was presented by the Duchess Matilda. 
The seven-branched brass candlestick 
(a copy, it is said, of that which stood 
in the temple of Jerusalem), on a pedes- 
tal ornamented with grotesque monsters, 
was made by command of Henry the 
Lion, and in the Byzantine style of art. 
Henry himself, and his wife Matilda, 
an English princess (daughter of Henry 
II. and sister of Richard Cceur de Lion), 
are buried in this church. Their effigies 
recline upon a sarcophagus in the central 
aisle. The Vaults beneath the church 
are the burial-place of the Ducal family. 
No fewer than 9 of the princes here in- 
terred perished on the field of battle. 
The most remarkable among this range 
of coffins, in the eyes of Englishmen, 
are those containing the bodies of the 
Duke, who was mortally wounded at 
the fatal battle of Jena,, and of his son,, 
who fell at Quatre Bras r having nobly 
avenged his fathers death,, at the head 
of his devoted black band. "Two small 
(black) flags, the one an offering from 
the matrons, the other from- the maidens 
of Brunswick, are suspended a&OVe Ills' 
coffin, still sprinkled with the browa 
and withering leaver of the garlands 
which the love of his peopfo scattered 
on his bier, when at midnight he was 
laid among so many of his race who had 
fought and fallen like himself,'*— Bus-, 
sell. Beside the coffins of these two 
heroes is placed that of Caroline of 
Brunswick, consort of Geo, IV, Tho 
silver plate, sent from England, bore 
the words, dictated by herself, " Mur^ 
dered Queen of England," but it waa 
removed and replaced by another, in- 
scribed simply with the name, dates, 
and titles, in the usual form ; the marka 

R 2 



364 



ROUTE 66. — BRUNSWICK CHURCHES. 



Sect. V. 



of the nails which fastened the original 
plate are still visible. 

Some of the relics brought by Henry 
the Lion from Palestine, which cost 
him vast sums, are preserved in an ante- 
chamber leading into the Boyal vault ; 
one of them, which the monks had 
palmed upon his credulity as a " Grif- 
fin's claw," and which long passed for 
such, is now ascertained to be the 
curved horn of a particular species of 
antelope ! Here are also shown the 
ivory horn and pipe of St. Blaize ; a 
statue of Henry the Lion made pro- 
bably in his lifetime ; a singular pillar 
of wood, bearing the emblems of the 
Passion of Christ, as the spear, nails, 
crown of thorns; St. Veronica's hand- 
kerchief; St. Peter's sword; the high 
priest's servant's ear ; the cock which 
crew, &c. &c. The bone of a whale or 
mammoth, in this vault, long passed 
for one of Goliath's ribs ! 

In the centre of the square near the 
Cathedral stands an ancient bronze Lion, 
of stiff Byzantine workmanship, brought 
from Constantinople by Henry the 
Lion. 

In the Alt Stadtmarht is a rich Gothic 
fountain of bronze, ornamented with 
figures, devices, and coats of arms : 
date 1408. The Mansion House (Alt- 
stadt Rathhaus), a beautiful specimen of 
German architecture (about 1300), hav- 
ing statues of Guelphic princes in front. 
The building is deserted and decayed : 
its dungeons are turned into wine cel- 
lars. St. Martin's Ch., opposite, is an 
interesting Gothic edifice of the 12th 
cent., but St. Anne's chapel at the 
S.W. dates from 1441. On the outside, 
in one corner, is a monument with 
effigies in relief of a man in armour, 
d. 1615. The bronze font, 1441, the 
statues on the pulpit (end of 16th cent.), 
and those of the high altar (1725), 
deserve notice. These 3 buildings, in 
combination with some Gothic houses 
in the same square, form a very pic- 
turesque group. The outsides of the 
Petrikirche, said to have been built by 
Henry the Lion, and of St. Andrew's 
Ch. (1200-1340, finished in the middle 
of the 16th cent.), ornamented ex- 
ternally on the S. side with figures of 
cripples (d. 1400), have a grand effect. 



St. Catherine's Ch. (latter half of 13th 
cent., choir finished 1450) resembles 
St. Andrew's, and is an ornament to 
the town. Here are some fine monu- 
ments of the 16- 18th cent., and painted 
glass, 1553. 

The old houses, Nos. 772, 773, in the 
Breiten St., and No. 456, Stein St., 
have curious carvings of the 15th 
cent. 

Close to the August Thor, on the 
finest site that the levelled ramparts 
afford, a cast-iron obelisk, 60 ft. high, 
has been erected by the citizens to the 
memory of their two dukes, who fell at 
Jena and Quatre Bras. 

About a mile outside the Stein Thor 
a monument and chapel have been erected 
to the memory of the brave but luckless 
Sphill (Bte. 76) and his companions in 
arms, 14 of whom were shot here by the 
French. Schill's head, formerly pre- 
served in spirits at Leiden, is now 
buried under the monument along with 
his body, and his bust, a gift of the 
King of Bavaria, is deposited in the 
chapel, along with many other relics of 
the War of Independence. Schill 
headed a patriotic rising against the 
French in 1808, which, though pre- 
mature, and quickly suppressed, led the 
way to the well-concerted opposition to 
Napoleon, which, in 1814, freed Ger- 
many from his thraldom. 

The famous corps of black Bruns- 
wickers, remarkable for their bravery 
and devotion to their princes, as well as 
for their sable uniform, black horsehair 
plume, and ominous death's head and 
cross-bones, are the Duke's Body- 
guard. 

A celebrated Fair is held at Bruns- 
wick. 

In the small Magni Kirchhof is the 
grave of Lessing (d. 1781), marked by 
a simple stone. 

The Railroad from Brunswick to 
Magdeburg runs near the Ducal cha- 
teaux of Bichmond andWilliamscastle, 
to 

li Wolfenbiittel Stat. Wolfenbiittel, a 
town of 9000 inhab., on the Ocker, 
remarkable for its Library of 200,000 
vols., containing a vast number of Bi- 
bles, among them Luther's Bible, with 
notes in his own hand. His marriage 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 66. — MAGDEBURG. 



365 



ring, doctor's ring, spoon, drinking 
glass, and his portrait by Cranach, are 
also preserved here. MSS., Mseso- 
Gothic, Icelandic, Latin, of 12th and 
13th cents., Cufic, Greek; Sachsenspie- 
gel (Saxon laws) full of figures. 

Lessing lived a long time here, as 
librarian to the Duke. 

[A branch railroad is carried from 
Wolfenbtittel to Harzburg, 6 Germ. m. 
= 28^ Eng. m., in the vicinity of 
Goslar. By means of it the excursion 
to the Harz (Rte. 73) may be con- 
veniently made from Brunswick. At 
Harzburg Stat, is a good restaurant 
and hotel ; Braunschweiger Hof. Car- 
riages, guides, and asses may be hired 
here. Harzburg consists of a few 
scattered houses at the foot of the 
mountains]. 

2 5 Schoppenstadt Stat. 

If Jerxheim Stat. 

2 Wegersleben Stat. The wooded 
hills of the Harz (the Brocken) appear 
against the S. horizon. 

ljj; Gross- Oschersleben Stat. 

(A branch railway hence to Halber- 
stadt, 2f Germ. m. Bte. 74.) 

1 Hadmersleben Stat. 

2 Langenweddingen Stat. 

"Within a circle of a few miles from 
Magdeburg lies some of the most fertile 
corn-land in Germany. It is, however, 
an open and unpicturesque plain, 
scarcely a hedge or tree visible. Much 
chicory is cultivated in this district : 
after being roasted at some of the kilns 
near the town, it is largely exported as 
a substitute for coffee. Most of the 
churches of Magdeburg have twin 
towers nearly alike, so that seven pair 
of steeples may be perceived on ap- 
proaching it, rising above the level lines 
of green ramparts. 

2 Magdeburg Stat. — Inns: Erzherzog 
Stephan, close to the Stat., good ; — 
Stadt London. 

The capital of the Prussian province 
of Saxony is built on the Elbe, and has 
66,000 inhab., including the garrison 
(4000) and 2000 R. Catholics. It is a 
fortress of the first class, and from the 
augmentation and improvement in its 
defences since the war is now considered 
one of the strongest in Europe. Owing 
to its vast extent, it could not be in- 



vested by an army of less than from 
50,000 to 100,000 men. The Citadel, 
on an island of the Elbe, one of the 
oldest parts of the fortifications, serves 
also as a state prison ; Lafayette and 
Carnot were confined in it. The famous 
Baron Trenck was long imprisoned in 
the Stern Schanze (Star Bastion) out- 
side the Sudenberger Thor : it is con- 
sidered one of the strongest points. 
The newly erected defences are Fort 
Scharnhorst and the Thurm Schanze. 
In spite of, or rather in consequence of, 
the strength of its bulwarks, Magdeburg 
has endured the miseries of war at dif- 
ferent times, and to a terrible extent, 
especially during the 30 years' war. It 
resisted the army of Wallenstein for 7 
months (1629), but was taken at the 
end of 2 years (1631) by the ferocious 
Tilly, who carried it by assault, sacked 
it, and massacred 30,000 of its inha- 
bitants without distinction of age or 
sex, with accompaniments of brutality 
and atrocity which alone will serve to 
affix for ever the above epithet to his 
name. The church of St. John, in which 
many hundred women had taken refuge, 
was nailed up and burnt, and the troop- 
ers, fastening to their saddle-girths the 
wives and daughters of murdered citi- 
zens, dragged them off to the camp. 
In the despatch in which Tilly an- 
nounced the capture, he says, " Since 
the destruction of Jerusalem and Troy, 
such a victory has not been." The gate 
by which he entered the town still con- 
tinues walled up, and upon the House 
of the commandant, whom he beheaded, 
may be still read the words, "Remem- 
ber the 1 0th of May, 1631." After this 
calamity only 139 houses were left 
standing. In 1806 the Fortress, though 
garrisoned by 20,000 men, was basely 
surrendered to the French by General 
Kleist, after 14 days' siege, in conse- 
quence, it is supposed, of cither cow- 
ardice or a bribe. The last siege was 
the long and obstinate one which it en- 
dured in 1813-14. 

Magdeburg, from its position on the 
Elbe, is the entrepot of the merchandize 
which enters Germany by that river, 
and is a place of considerable manufac- 
turing industry, as well as of active 
commerce, A canal, commencing 20 m. 



366 



ROUTE 66, — MAGDEBURG, CATHEDRAL. 



Sect. V. 



below the town, unites the Elbe with 
the Havel. The finest street is the 
Breiteweg, running 3S". and S. through 
the town, and almost the only fine 
building is 

The Cathedral, one of the noblest 
Gothic edifices of N. Germany, erected 
between 1211 and 1363. It was shame- 
fully injured, and turned into a ware- 
house and stable, by the French, but 
has been repaired, at the cost of 300,000 
dollars, by the Prussian government. 
"All the lower part of the building 
dates from about 1200. It succeeded 
an older Dom, erected by the Empr. 
Otho I., of which a curious model is pre- 
served in a side chapel ; it was round, 
and probably one of the largest churches 
of that form. 3 imposing colossal 
statues behind the choir, various marble 
and granite columns, and perhaps the 
small figures now in the walls of the 
choir, belonged to the old Dom." — F.S. 
This ch. is 864 ft. long. The roof of 
the nave is 110 ft. high. The tomb of 
the Empr. Otho I. and his queen Editha 
(daughter of Edmund King of the Anglo- 
Saxons) is of the 14th cent. The 
horseshoe arches of the E. end are very 
elegant. The pulpit of alabaster, now 
sadly mutilated, is the work of one 
Sebastian Extel, 1594; there is a monu- 
ment by the same hand in the church, 
and others displaying fine cinque-cento 
bas-relief. " The variety and. beauty 
of the Romanesque capitals and tym- 
pana are remarkable. The dog-tooth 
ornament occurs in the triforium, and 
on the exterior at the "W. end. The 
cloisters deserve a visit." — B. 

In a chapel at the W. end, singu- 
larly placed between the two towers, 
where the principal entrance ought 
to be, is the monument of Archbp. 
Ernest (1495), executed in bronze by 
the celebrated artist of Nuremberg, 
Peter Vischer. The figures of the 12 
Apostles around it are worthy of mi- 
nute examination as works of art of 
great excellence. A branched bronze 
candelabrum and 2 chandeliers, as well 
as the iron screen, are of ancient work. 
Among other remarkable monuments 
is that of one Bake, a canon of the 
cathedral, who saved the building from 
destruction by interceding on its be- 



half with Tilly, whose schoolfellow he 
had been ; also that of the Frau von 
Asseburg, who returned home the night 
after her burial, and lived with her 
husband for 9 years after her first in- 
terment ; a story which the sexton will 
not fail to tell. Tilly's helmet and 
gloves are shown here. 

Against the walls are placed tablets 
bearing the names of the men of Mag- 
deburg who fell in the War of Libera- 
tion, with this simple heading : — " Aus 
dieser Stadt starben fur Konig und 
Vaterland." In order to see the fine 
view of the town and fortifications 
from the top of the towers 350 ft. high, 
permission ought to be obtained from 
the commandant ; but you can ascend 
as far as the roof with the Dom-Custos. 
N.B. The gravedigger's wife keeps the 
keys of the tower. In St. Sebastian's 
Church is the grave of Otto Guerike, 
the inventor of the air-pump. 

In the Alte Markt, opposite the 
Rathhaus, stands an equestrian statue 
of the Emperor Otho, with his two 
queens, one on either side. It is the 
oldest monument in Magdeburg, erect- 
ed by the grateful citizens after his 
death (973). 

The Public Gardens, called Frie- 
drich Wilhelms Garten, outside the 
Sudenberger gate, and by the side of 
the Elbe, are tastefully laid out, com- 
mand fine views, and are a great re- 
source to the townspeople. The Furs- 
tenwall {Prince's Rampart), a sort of 
terrace and parade-ground running along 
the margin of the Elbe, — named from 
Prince Leopold of Dessau, — not far 
from the Dom, is a fine walk. Beneath 
it are casemates, whose chimneys pro- 
ject through the ground among the 
trees. They are now partly occupied 
as railway offices. 

Luther went to school at Magdeburg, 
and has recorded in his writings that 
while a poor scholar here he often sang 
in the streets and at rich men's doors 
(as is still the custom with poor cho- 
risters) to earn a scanty pittance, which 
helped to support him. 

The French republican General Car- 
not is buried in the churchyard outside 
the Krokentkor ; he received an asylum 
here from the Prussians after being 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 67. DUSSELDORF TO BERLIN. 



367 



banished from France, in consequence 
of the restoration of the Bourbons, and 
d. 1823. 

. There is a Theatre here. The Frie- 
drich Wilhelms Garten beyond the glacis 
occupies the site of the garden of the 
Convent of Berg, founded 937, sup- 
pressed 1810 : it commands an exten- 
sive view. 

For the Bailway from Magdeburg to 

Berlin, see Bte. 62. 

EOUTE 67. 

DUSSELDORF TO BERLIN, BY ELBERFELD, 
CASSEL, EISLEBEN, AND HALLE. 

83| Pruss. m.= 389£ Eng. m. 

Railway from Dusseldorf to Dort- 
mund, where it enters the Minden 
railway (Bte. 66). Trains in 4 hours to 
Dortmund. This railway connects the 
nourishing manufacturing districts of 
the Wupperthal, and county of Mark, 
with the Cologne-Berlin line. It is 
interesting alike from the industry and 
picturesque beauty of the country it 
traverses, as well as for the engineering 
skill displayed in its construction. 

Gerresheim Stat. This old town 
once contained a celebrated Nunnery 
for noble ladies. The fair Agnes of 
Mansfeldt eloped from it with Geb- 
hart Truchsess, Archbishop of Cologne, 
in 1582. The Church is a fine Gothic 
edifice of the 12th cent. 

Erkerath Stat. Beyond this is an 
inclined plane, which the carriages as- 
cend by the weight of a descending train 
coming in the opposite direction. 

Hochdahl Stat, is 1 m. distant from 
a cavern called the Neanders Hohle. 

Vohwinkel Stat. A few miles S. of 
this lies the town of Solingen [Inns : 
Baerischer Hof; Stadt Konigsberg), 
4000 inhab., famous for its extensive 
manufacture of sword-blades, foils, 
scissors, and other articles of cutlery 
and ironware. 

A branch railway, called Prince 
William's Railway, runs N. from Voh- 
winkel to Steele. Near the village of 
Sonnborn the train crosses the vale of 
the Wupper on a bridge of 6 arches, 
and along the shoulder of a hill reaches 

Elberfeld Stat. Omnibus (5 Sgr.) 
into the town. 



3£ Elberfeld. — Inns: Kurpfalzer 
Hof (Cour Electorale) ; — Zweibrucker 
Hof; — Weiden Hof. This is one of 
the most important towns in the Prus- 
sian dominions, from its extensive ma- 
nufactories. It has a population of 
48,000, and is joined to another town, 
Barmen, with 32,000 inhab., forming 
an uninterrupted street 5 miles long. 
Its situation in the pretty valley of the 
Wupper is picturesque, healthy, and 
advantageous to its commerce, but the 
town itself is dirty and not prepossess- 
ing. It has rapidly risen to its actual 
extent and height of prosperity within 
the present century. Its principal ma- 
nufactures consist of cottons, thread, 
silk, and the dye called Turkey red, 
which is produced here of so excellent 
a colour, and so very cheap, that cotton 
yarn is actually exported to a consider- 
able extent from Glasgow and else- 
where, and is afterwards reimported 
from Elberfeld, dyed. In 1829 the 
annual produce of the manufactures 
here was valued at more than 3 millions 
sterling. There are few districts in 
Europe at present which exceed in 
manufacturing enterprise, wealth, and 
population, that part of the Bhenish 
provinces of Prussia which anciently 
composed the Duchy of Berg. It may 
be nearly included within a triangle 
drawn from Cologne, along the Bhine 
to the mouth of the Buhr, and from 
these two points to Hagen. The valleys 
of the Wupper, and of the streams 
pouring into it, are scenes of the most 
active and intelligent industry, and 
their manufactures of cotton, iron, 
cutlery, and brass, nearly equal those 
of England, while they surpass our 
own in cheapness. The prosperity of 
the country is visible at every step : 
coal, the origin of all manufacturing 
prosperity, is found in abundance ; 
water-power is furnished by the nume- 
rous streams ; steam-engines have been 
erected everywhere, and the hills are 
covered with habitations even up to 
their summits. 

The new Rathhaus is ornamented with 
frescoes by the Dusseldorf artists. 

The object best worth visiting here 
is the Belvedere (Bundschau auf der 
Hardt), a round tower on the top of 



368 



ROUTE 67, — BLBERFELD. ISERLOHN". 



Sect. V. 



the hill of Hardt, surrounded hy plea- 
sure-grounds, a charming point of 
view, overlooking the Wupperthal, ac- 
cessible in less than ^ an hour from the 
Hotel. 

Schnellposts daily to Iserlohn, — to 
Cassel in 29£ hours. 

Elberfeld is united to Barmen by a 
bridge, so that they seem to form but 
one town, both animated by the same 
spirit of industry. Barmen is a long 
straggling street, with manufactories 
and human dwellings on either side. 
At every step the country displays the 
most agreeable signs of industrious 
prosperity, — indeed this portion of the 
Duchy of Berg may be looked on as 
one vast workshop. It is the most 
populous district of Prussia ; the 
number of inhab. is calculated at 
18,000 to the German square m. 
(21 J Eng. square m.) The railway 
crosses the frontier of Berg and Mark, 
the ancient ■ line of demarcation be- 
tween the Franks and Saxons, before 
reaching 

1£ Schwelm (Inn, Markischer Hof), 
an active^ little town of 3400 inhab. 
After passing through a considerable 
cutting in the mountain the railway 
gains an_ elevated point (Milspe) from 
which you look down upon the broad 
vale of Ennepe, swarming with life 
and industry. Villages occur at every 
few miles of road, chiefly busied in 
various manufactures of iron. Ma- 
chetes, here called Sackhauer, for cut- 
ting the sugar-cane in the West Indies, 
&c, are made here. 

2 ~ Hagen (Inn, Preussischer Adler), 
a manufacturing town of 3500 inhab. 
Schnellpost, daily, in 24 hours, from 
Hagen to Cassel. Near Witten the 
railway quits the valley of the Buhr. 

Dortmund Stat., in Bte. 66, where 
this railway enters the Cologne, Min- 
den, and Berlin line. The post-road 
between Hagen and Unna runs near to 
the coal-mines, the chief source of pros- 
perity to the surrounding district. The 
road makes a considerable bend to cross 
the Lenne, approaching the small town 
of Limburg (Inn, Bentheimer Hof, 
beautifully situated), and the chateau 
of the Prince of Bentheim-Tecklenbiirg- 
Bheda, which is in a very picturesque 



situation. At the point where the 
Lenne joins the Buhr, N.W. in the 
distance are seen the ruins of Hohen- 
Syburg, the old castle of Wittekind, last 
Duke of the Saxons, who was here con- 
quered by Charlemagne and compul- 
sorily baptized. After passing near the 
Grurmannshohle, nearer Iserlohn, at 
Griine, a colossal cross of iron is dis- 
cernible. It was set up as a memorial 
of the War of Liberation. 

2 J Iserlohn (Inn, Quinke's Hotel), 
one of the most considerable manufac- 
turing towns in Westphalia, with 9400 
inhab. : it may be regarded as the 
Birmingham of Prussia, where steam- 
engines, cutlery, and all sorts of brass 
ware, buttons, needles, pins, wire, &c, 
are made. The country round abounds 
in workshops, forges, paper-mills, &c, 
is rich in picturesque rocks, ruined 
castles of antiquity, and, romantic 
valleys and glens. At Hemar, 3 m. 
on the high road, the traveller, by 
turning rt. to the village Sundwich, 
may see the Sundwich Hohle, a cave 
containing fossil bones, and the Sea of 
Bocks (Felsenmeer). We are now in 
the ancient duchy of Westphalia, the 
country of the red earth, over which, 
in former times, the jurisdiction of the 
mysterious Yehm Gericht, miscalled the 
Secret Tribunal, extended. The na- 
tional food of Westphalia is brown rye 
bread, commonly called pumpernickel, 
described by Voltaire as " certaine 
pierre dure, noire, et gluante, composee, 
a. ce qu'on pretend, d'une espece de 
seigle ;" it is found on the tables of 
rich and poor, and horses are fed on a 
coarse sort of it, as well as men. 

2^ Wimbern. — Inn, Post ; civil 
people, but poor accommodation. — 
R. T. Hence to Werl, on the high 
road to Munster and Paderborn, is 
only 1 Germ. m. The road approaches 
the Buhr, and continues along its 
banks for many miles, crossing it at 
Neheim. 

2| Arnsberg. — Inn, Konig von Preus- 
sen, good. — A town of 4000 inhab., 
prettily situated on an eminence half 
encircled by the Buhr. On one of the 
gates are groups of stags and boars not 
ill executed. There is an extensive 
view horn, the ruins of the Old Castle, 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 67. — ARNSBERG. CASSEL. 



S69 



in the Court of which (Baumhof), or 
in a field on the 1. of the road to Iser- 
lohn, the judges of that which has 
been called the Secret Tribunal used to 
assemble for deliberation. The holy 
Vehrn numbered in. "Westphalia (which 
anciently comprehended the country 
between the Rhine, Weser, and Ems) 
100,000 Wissenden or initiated. This 
ancient court of justice, now errone- 
ously regarded as a sort of German in- 
quisition, was in truth only a separate 
jurisdiction ; its meetings were held in 
public places, and in open day ; and 
its proceedings were neither secret nor 
tyrannical. The words Secret Tribunal 
are in fact a mistranslation of the words 
" Separatum judicium." Part of the 
old castle is fitted up as a residence for 
the family- of Hesse-Schomberg, and 
contains some good pictures, pottery, 
and glass. The gardens are much fre- 
quented by picnic parties from the 
neighbouring places. At the foot of 
the hill lies the suppressed Benedictine 
Abbey Weddinghausen. Schnellpost to 
Munster. Pretty country to 

2£ Meschede, a pretty town on the 
Ruhr. Schaffers Inn. 

3 Brilon (Inn, Post) is one of the 
oldest towns in Germany, and has 3000 
inhab. The Great Parish Ch. was built, 
it is said, by Charlemagne, in 776 (?). 

This stage lies over a lonely heath 
(Thurlerheide), with scarcely a house 
in sight. 

2 Bredelar on the Diemel. The post- 
house was once a monastery, now turned 
into an iron-work. 

The old road goes by Arolsen (2f), 
residence of the Prince of Waldeck ( Inns ; 
Waldeckscher Hof ; — Romer) ; Rauch 
the sculptor, and Kaulbach the painter, 
were born at Arolsen. Volkmarsen, 
1 j ; — Westuffeln, 2 : but the new road, 
made as far as possible within the 
Prussian territory, skirts Waldeck, and 
passes through 

3f Ossendorf. Beyond, however, it 
is necessarily carried across a portion 
of the Electorate of Hesse, which, in 
conjunction with Waldeck, separate the 
Westphalian and Rhenish provinces of 
Prussia from the rest of her empire. 

2£ Westuffeln. The Elector of Hesse 
has a country-seat at Wilhelmsthal. 



2^ Cassel. — In Rte. 70. Schnellpost 
to Halle, 26 Germ, m., in 26 hours. 
By the Thuringian railway in 8 hrs. 

2 Helsa. Near Almerode, the Mount 
Meissner, 2300 ft. above the sea-level, 
chiefly of columnar basalt, is seen to the 
S., and it maybe conveniently ascended 
from that place. Scenery, pretty and 
varied, to 

* 2f Witzenhausen (Inns : Konig v. 
Preussen; Goldne Krone), prettily 
placed on the Werra, 2500 inhab. ; the 
last station in Hesse Cassel. There is 
an elegant Gothic chapel, with elaborate 
open-work turret, near the bridge : it 
deserves being drawn. 

" There is a charming drive along 
the rt. bank of the Werra, both up to 
Allendorf, and down to Miinden in 
Hanover ; through woods the greater 
part of the way. The forests in Hesse 
are among the finest in Germany, owing 
to the large trees they contain, which 
are no longer found in those nearer the 
Rhine."— F. S. 

3 Heiligenstadt (Inns : Preussischer 
Hof; Deutsches Haus) has 4000 
inhab. ; it was formerly the capital of 
the principality of Eichsfeld, but now 
belongs to Prussia. The Ch. of the 
Apostles has 2 octagonal towers, and in 
the churchyard is an octagonal chapel, 
intended apparently for a Baptistery. 

3 Wulfingerode. A hilly stage to 
3 Nordhausen {Inns ; Romischer 
Kaiser ; Berliner Hof ; Englischer Hof ; 
Deutsches Haus, outside the town, 
good), a flourishing town of 15,000 
inhab., at the S. extremity of the Harz 
mountains, in a country very fertile in 
corn. It has the most extensive dis- 
tilleries in Germany. In the Ch. of 
St. Blazius are two paintings by Luke 
Cranach ; an Ecce Homo, and the bu- 
rial of the young man of Nain, painted 
to adorn the tomb of a friend of the 
painter, who has introduced among the 
mourners portraits of Luther and Me- 
lancthon. Near the Rathhaus is a Ro- 
landsciule under a roof. (See p. 375.) 
Wolf the philosopher was born here. 
The walks and gardens on the upper side 
of the town are beautiful. There are many 
interesting points in the neighbourhood, 
such as the castles of Hohenstein and 
Ebersburg. The road from hence to 

r3 



370 



ROUTE 68. — COLOGNE TO CASSEL. 



Sect. V. 



Magdeburg and the Harz is described 
in Ete. 74. 

Near Nordhausen begins the fertile 
valley called Goldene Aue, watered by 
the winding Helme. It extends to 
Rossleben and Sangerhausen, near 
which it falls into the Unstrut. 11m. 
S. of Nordhausen lies Sondershausen 
(Inn, Erbprinz), capital of the small 
principality of Schwarzburg. — 8. In 
the palace is a small collection of an- 
tiquities, among them a bronze image, 
said to be an idol of the Sorbie- Wends 
called Piisterich, very old. At 

2f Rossla on the Helme, 1200 inhab., 
Count Stolberg has a chateau. On the 
rt. of the road rises the hill called Kyff- 
hiiuser (1353 ft. high) : on it may be 
seen ruins of a tower, said to be the 
remains of an imperial castle, built by 
the Empr. Barbarossa, whose spirit is 
fabled still to haunt its chambers, and 
some among the peasants and miners 
affirm they have seen him with his head 
resting on his arm, and his red beard 
growing through the stone table at 
which he sits ! 

2~ Sangerhausen. — Inn, Lowe. In 
theCh. of St. Ulrich (date 1079) is 
the tomb of Louis the Leaper, who 
voAved to build a chmch to St. TJlrich, 
provided he succeeded in jumping safely 
out of the window of his prison near 
Halle : from this circumstance he ob- 
tained a nickname, and the saint a 
church. Near the town are mines of 
brown coal and copper. 

2f Eislebcn (Inn, Goldenes Schiff). 
A town of 7000 inhab. on the Bose, a 
small stream. It is only remarkable 
as the native place of Luther. The 
house in which he was born, 1483, and 
died, 1546, is not far from the gate 
leading to Halle, a few doors from the 
Post-office ; his portrait is placed over 
the entrance. The original building 
was partly consumed by fire in 16S9, 
but there is still enough of it left to 
give interest to it. It is now converted 
into a Free School for the education of 
poor children, and contains the cap, 
cloak, and other relics of the great 
reformer. In St. Andrew's ch. is the 
pulpit from which he preached, and 
some tombs of the Counts of Mansfeld. 
Luther was the son of a poor miner , 



here, and the greater part of the in- 
hab. still follow the same occupation, 
working in the neighbouring copper- 
mines. The ancient castle was the 
residence of the Counts of Mansfeld. 

The road traverses an open country 
bare of wood, passing 2 small lakes ; 
the one on the rt. is salt, the other 
fresh. 

2~ Langenbogen. There are brown 
coal-mines near this. 

2 Halle. See p. 356. Railway 
hence to Berlin. Rte. 63. 



ROUTE 68. 

COLOGNE TO CASSEL AND BRUNSWICK BY 
SOEST AND PADERBORN. 

Railway trains in 63 h. 

See Rte. 66 for the railway from 
Cologne to 

Hamm Stat. The "Westphalian Eisen- 
bahn diverges from this point to 

2 "Werl. (Inn very bad.) Here are 
salt-works, and a miraculous image of 
the Virgin, to which many thousand 
pilgrims repair annually. 

2|- Soest Stat. (Inns : Bei Overweg, 
comfortable and clean). A singular 
antiquated walled town, with 8000 
inhab. ; reckoned the cheapest place in 
Germany. It contains several very 
curious churches, " which deserve elu- 
cidation by some competent architect. 
Many of them seem to be works of 
colonists from the Rhine, and are very 
Roman in the appearance of their archi- 
tecture and masonry. In the tower of 
one of them there still remains a heap 
of old cross-bow bolts and cross-bows 
in a state of decay. The more modern 
chinches of the 13th, 14th, and loth 
cent, are equally good, and seem to 
be emanations from the tasteful Gothic 
architecture of Minister. Some of the 
shrine work is particularly worthy of 
imitation from its richness and purity." 
—F. S. The Dom and the Petri- 
Kirche, in the Byzantine or round- 
arched style, and the Wtesen-Xirehe, 
a splendid specimen of German pointed 
Gothic (the altar-piece — the woes and 
joys of the Virgin, 1437— is fino\ es- 
pecially deserve notice. During- the 
middle ages Soest was a most flourishing 



Prussia. ' 



ROUTE 68. — COLOGNE TO CASSEL. 



371 



and populous town, lying on the great 
commercial high road from Bruges and 
Antwerp, across Germany, hy Cologne 
to Brunswick and the Baltic. In the 
15th cent, it withstood a memorahle 
siege from Dietrich Archbp. of Co- 
logne, an ambitious prelate, who sought 
to subject Westphalia to his rule. In 
spite, however, of the long train of 
princes and nobles whom he gained 
over to his cause, and in spite of his 
army of 60,000 men, including a horde 
of 20,000 Bohemian mercenaries, the 
Bishop was compelled to raise the siege 
and retire from the walls, so bravely 
were they defended by the citizens, 
who served the artillery, and by their 
wives, who wielded pots of boiling 
pitch. 

Sir Peter Lely was a native of Soest. 
About a mile off, on the 1. of the road, 
are the salt-works and baths of Sas- 
sendorf. 

Lippstadt Stat., on the Lippe (Kop- 
pelmans Inn). 

If Gesecke Stat. — Inn, Post, tole- 
rable. 

1 Salzkotten Stat. (Preussens Inn), a 
town of 1500 inhab., with considerable 
salt-works. 

1 J Paderborn Stat. {Inns : Preus- 
sischcr Hof ; Romischer Hof, dirty ; 
Schwan ; none good). A very ancient 
and gloomy town of 8200 inhab., for- 
merly capital of an ecclesiastical prin- 
cipality, and seat of a University, now 
a Catholic Bishop's See, full of curious 
old houses. 

The Cathedral is a large and curious, 
rather than handsome, edifice, built 
1133, 345 ft. long, 66 ft. high, has re- 
markable sculptures over the portal, 
and contains the shrine of St. Liborius 
of silver gilt, and numerous monuments 
of its bishops, &c. In an angle between 
the nave and the transept is a well 80 ft. 
deep. The sacristy abounds in articles 
of church plate, and in splendid priests' 
vestments. Below the Dom rises the 
stream of the Pader, out of 5 sources, 
in sufficient copiousness to be able to 
turn a mill at the distance of a few 
yards. The ground on which the town 
stands teems with springs of water, 
bursting forth in the very streets ; it is 
said there are not less than 300 in and 



about it, some of them warm. The 
Stadthaus is a very picturesque biiilding. 
The University is now replaced by a 
Catholic Seminary. There is a fine 
walk round the town. 

1ST. and E. of Paderborn stretches the 
Teutoburger Wald, — the Saltus Teuto- 
bergicus of the Romans, — covered with 
oaks and beech. This high land is 
supposed to be the scene of the defeat 
of the legions of Varus by the German 
chief Arminius (Her-mann, the leader 
of the army). Allowing the Romans 
to advance across the plains of West- 
phalia, he awaited them in the first 
difficult country, on the skirts of the 
Great Hercynian Forest, a strong po- 
sition, covering the district up to the 
Weser, where, Roman discipline being 
of no avail, the invaders suffered one of 
the most serious defeats recorded in 
their annals, which arrested for ever 
their progress in this direction. The 
battle-field is supposed to lie between 
Driburg and Bielefeld (R. 66, p. 359. 
See also p. 377). Many of the present 
names of hills, forests, streams and vil- 
lages in this district correspond with 
those mentioned by Tacitus, near the 
scene of the battle. 

The railway on quitting Paderborn 
penetrates into the highlands of West- 
phalia, following first the valley of the 
Alme, next the winding course of the 
Sauer, by Etteln, Atteln, and Ebbing- 
hausen, traversing a tunnel at Lichtenau, 
and another through the Ebbegebirge. 

Warburg Stat. Here is the frontier 
of Prussia. An old and decayed town, 
in a picturesque site on the Diemel : 
1. rises the hill of Eegelberg, sur- 
mounted by the ruins of Castle Desen- 
berg, the property of the Spiegel family. 

The river Diemel is crossed, and not 
far from Liebenau, on the frontier of 
Electoral Hesse, our railway reaches 
the line from Cassel to Karlshafen. 

Karlshafen Stat. {Inns : Karlsbahn ; 
Schwan), at the junction of the Diemel 
with the Weser. Steam-boat (see Rte. 
74 a) to Bremen. For the railway to 
Cassel see Rte. 71. 

Cassel Station. 

The road to Brunswick proceeds 
from Paderborn to 



372 



EOUTE 69. — DUSSELDORF TO MUNSTER. 



Sect, V. 



2f Driburg (Inns : Kothener Hof, in 
the town; Deutsches Haus, at the 
Wells : both good). The town con- 
tains 2000 inhab, A little to the E, of 
it, on the road to Hoxter, beneath the 
old castle of Yburg, lie the Baths, sup- 
plied by a chalybeate spring, one of the 
strongest known. They are annually 
frequented by some hundred visitors. -A 
covered gallery, 250 ft, long, serves as 
a promenade in bad weather. A new 
macadamised road leads over the Berg- 
stiege to 

2 Braekel (Inns ; Berliner Hof ; 
Deutsches Haus), at the junction of 
the Brucht and Nethe, Population 
2700. 

2^ Hoxter (Inns : Berliner Hof ; 
Stadt Bremen), A walled town, 3500 
inhab., the last in Prussian Westphalia, 
on the 1. bank of the Weser. Near it 
Charlemagne fought one of his hardest 
battles against the Saxons. The watch- 
tower on the Brunsberg is said to be a 
relic of a castle built by Bruno, brother 
of Wittekind, and which is supposed to 
have been one of the strongest Saxon 
fortresses. In 1673 Turenne fixed his 
head-quarters here. It is now a Prus- 
sian court-house. A fine avenue of 
chestnuts, 1 m. long, leads to the sup- 
pressed (1805) Benedictine Abbey of 
Corvey (Corveia), (no inn), one of the 
most ancient ecclesiastical establish- 
ments in Germany. It was founded in 
823, by Louis the Pious, and received 
from Paris, in 836, the relics of St. 
Vitus ; it became the missionary centre 
from which Christianity and civiliza- 
tion were spread over a large part of 
JN". Germany and Scandinavia. Ansgar, 
the Apostle of the IS"., was a missionary 
from Corvey, and Pope Gregoiy V. 
was abbot here. The only existing 
MS. of the first 5 books of Tacitus was 
discovered in the convent library, 1514, 
and published 1515 by Pope Leo X. 
The Convent, a handsome modern edi- 
fice, is now a seat of the Prince of 
HohenlOhe-Schillingsfurst, but too vast 
for any private family of whatever rank, 
and void of interest. The only remains 
of the old Abbey are in the W. front of 
the Church, and the story over it, with 
the columns of single blocks in the 
vestibule, attributed with some pro- 



bability to the age of Charlemagne ; 
the body is of the 1 5th cent. Steamer 
to Bremen, see Etc, 74a, Beyond this, 
as far as Eschershausen, the road is fine. 

If Holzminden in Brunswick. 

2Jr Eschershausen. 

<L\ Muhlenbeck. 

\\ Gandersheim, 

1~ Seesen, — Steigerthal's Inn is the 
best The town has 2000 inhab. 

1 § Lutter, where Tilly gained a vic- 
tory over the Protestants under Chris- 
tian IY. of Denmark, so decisive that he 
received for it the thanks of the Holy 
See. Lutter, Salzgitter, and Beinum 
lie within the Hanoverian territory. 

3j Immendorf. 

2 Brunswick. See Bte. 66. 

EOUTE 69. 

DUSSELDORF TO Ml'NSTER AND TO BRE- 
MEN, BY OSNABRiJCK (POST-ROAD), OR 
BY WUNSTORF (RAILWAY). 

Por the Railway as far as Hamm 
Stat. (20 Germ, m.), see Bte. 66. 

At Hamm a branch line turns off to 
Munster. Trains in 1 hr., 4^ Germ. m. 

Stats, at Drensteinfurth and Bunker- 
ode. 

The many towers of Munster have an 
imposing appearance at a distance. 

MiixsTERStat. (Inns: Munsterischer 
Hof, comfortable and goodtable-d'hote ; 
Konig von England, in the market- 
place, better situated), the capital of 
the province of Westphalia, has 24,000 
inhab., and is a place of considerable 
trade and commerce. It was formerly 
ruled by archbishops, who were princes 
independent of the Empire ; it is now a 
Catholic bishop's see. It is one of the 
most curious old towns in Germany, 
though it has not the high antiquity or 
fine situation of those on the Bhine and 
Danube. Along the ground floor of the 
houses of the main street run arcades, 
siipporting the upper stories, reminding 
the traveller of Padua and Bologna. Its 
Gothic buildings are remarkable for 
their good taste and picturesque beauty. 
The most remarkable are, the Cathedra!, 
of mixed Bomanesque and Gothic archi- 
tecture, with 2 transepts and very low 
side aisles. " The parts of it most worth 
notice are, the S. Transept (outside), 
and the S. porch, or Paradise as it is 



Prussia, 



ROUTE 69.— -MONSTER. 



373 



called, with Byzantine pillars and sculp- 
tures. Inside, the Roodloft and its 
staircases, the sacraments houses, the 
brass font, and stained glass." — F. S. 
The body of the church was gutted by 
the Anabaptists. The choir has been 
vilely daubed with peach-colour and 
green and miserable arabesques. Ob- 
serve a Last Judgment, a huge sculp- 
ture in stone, 1692, in the S. transept ; 
a Pieta, of marble, under the organ, by 
Achterman, a living sculptor, a native 
of Miinster. Behind the choir is the tomb 
of Bishop Galen, who, notwithstanding 
his ecclesiastical title and profession, 
spent a life of perpetual warfare, main- 
taining an army of 42,000 foot, 18,000 
horse, and 200 cannoneers. He is ap- 
propriately styled in his epitaph "Hos- 
tium terror," but he was equally dreaded 
by his friends, for, being offended 
soon after his accession by the con- 
duct of the townsfolk, he mercilessly 
bombarded the town until he was ap- 
peased by promises of submission. In 
order, however, to make sure of obedi- 
ence, he erected the very strong Citadel. 
The English government considered 
him a person of so much importance 
that they sent Sir Wm. Temple, in 
1664, to negotiate an alliance with him ; 
but the Bishop had previously sold him- 
self to the Dutch. Under a simple slab 
lie the remains of the celebrated Archbp. 
of Cologne, Clement August von Droste, 
well known for his opposition to the 
King of Prussia — died 1845. 

The Ueberwasser Kirche, especially its 
tower, is a fine specimen of Gothic art, 
which seems to have flourished in its 
best state in Westphalia during the 
14th and 15th cent. 

The Ludgeri Kirche is the oldest in 
the town. The interior of the body of 
the ch. has massive piers supporting cir- 
cular arches. The lower portion of 
the tower is also Romanesque. The 
choir and the graceful octagonal lan- 
tern of the tower are in the pointed 
style. 

At the end of the principal market- 
place is St. Lambert's Ch., in the best 
Gothic style of the 13th cent. Prom 
its tower still hang the iron cages in 
which the bodies of John of Leyden, 
the Tailor King, Knipperdolling, and 



Krechting, his two ministers and col- 
leagues — the leaders of the Anabaptists 
— were suspended, after they had been 
cruelly tortured for the space of an 
hour with red-hot pincers, previous to 
their execution in the Great Square. 
These fanatics, after expelling from the 
town, in 1534, all the respectable and 
rational inhabitants, and filling it with 
ignorant peasants and enthusiasts, who 
flocked hither from Holland, Friesland, 
and Westphalia, proclaimed Miinster 
to be the New Jerusalem mentioned in 
the prophecies. They appointed them- 
selves its sovereigns, and maintained 
possession of it for the space of many 
months, establishing a community of 
goods and of women, attacking all con- 
stituted authorities, as the only means 
of rooting out evil from the earth (!), 
committing the most horrid atrocities, 
substituting polygamy for marriage, and 
the like. 

The house of John of Leyden, orna- 
mented with curious carvings, still ex- 
ists in the market-place. 

The Rathhaus is a singular and beau- 
tiful specimen of Gothic, 14th cent. 
Under a colonnade running round the 
lower story are exposed the tongs and 
pincers with which the Anabaptists 
were tortured previous to their execu- 
tion. In the Friedenssaal, which is 
well preserved and well worth seeing, 
the Peace of Westphalia, which ended 
the Thirty Years' War, was signed May, 
1648. It contains paintings of the am- 
bassadors and sovereigns who took part 
in the Congress. The cushions they sat 
upon still cover their seats. Here also 
are shown John of Leyden' s hand, cut 
off before his execution, shrivelled and 
dried, his carved bedstead, and his 
wife's shoes. 

The Schloss, formerly Palace of the 
Bishop, now the residence of the com- 
mandant, is handsome, and has a fine 
staircase, but is fast falling to decay. 
Behind it there are pretty gardens, oc- 
cupying the site of the old citadel. 
The fortifications, now levelled and 
planted, form agreeable walks round 
the town. 

The Catholic University, which for- 
merly flourished here, is supplanted by 
that of Bonn, and reduced to a College 



374 



ROUTE 69. — OSNABRUCK. 



Sect. y. 



of the theological and philosophical fa- 
cilities. The building, originally a con- 
vent, contains a small collection of na- 
tural history. 

The Provincial Museum and Kunst 
Verein possess curious ancient paintings 
of the Westphalian school. 

There is a considerable trade in West- 
phalia hams here. 

Minister is connected with the river 
Ems by a navigable Canal. 



A Schnellpost daily in 21 hrs. to Bre- 
men, by Osnabriick. The quickest way 
to Bremen is to follow the Cologne- 
Minden- Hanover railway (Bte. 66) 
from Hamm toWunstorf (p. 359) Stat., 
whence a line branches N. through a 
flat country of bare heath (Bte. 72 a) to 
Bremen Stat. : see p. 386. 

The post and schnellpost road is as 
follows : — 

l^r Telgte, on the Ems ; a neat town 
of 2000 inhab. A large and venerable 
lime-tree stands by the roadside at the 
entrance of the town, out of which, 
says the legend, grew formerly an 
image of the Virgin. This tree is still 
the object of great adoration in the 
little town, and receives every year the 
homage of the different images of the 
same saint, which are brought there 
from Minister for that purpose. Ost- 
beyern is the last place in Prussia. The 
road now improves. Fine view from 
the hill above Iburg ; the vale of Osna- 
briick very pretty. 

2f Glandorf, in Hanover. Iburg is 
an old castle, and the official residence 
of the Bishops of Osnabriick. In it is 
a curious collection of the portraits of 
all the bishops, ending with that of the 
Duke of York, who is represented with 
his crosier. Here George II. was born. 
George I. died in his carriage on the 
road to Osnabriick, 1727. It is said 
that on landing in Germany from Eng- 
land a letter had been put into his 
hands from his deceased wife Sophia 
Dorothea, whom he had kept in confine- 
ment many years, written shortly before 
her death, maintaining her innocence, 
and summoning him to appear before 
the Divine tribunal within a year and 
a day. On reading this mysterious 



summons he is reported to have fallen 
into convulsions, which carried him off 
before he could reach Osnabriick. 

3|j Osnabriick (Inns : Krummer El- 
lenbogen ; Bomischer Kaiser ; Der 
JEtna), capital of a Hanoverian pro- 
vince (or Landrostei) of the same name, 
has 12,000 inhab., half Catholics, half 
Protestants. The governor, nominated 
by the king of Hanover, bears the title 
of Bishop, without sharing the eccle- 
siastical dignity. Thus the late Duke 
of York was made Bishop of Osnabriick 
while an infant. The Cathedral, very 
old, in the style of Cologne ; square E. 
end, and chapel, with triple windows ; 
side screens to choir; sacristy 1150-1200; 
cloisters. Johanniskirche, evidently 
copied from the Dom, but a cent, later, 
square E. end ; old altar now at the end 
of N. aisle ; fine old silver crosses in 
the sacristy. The Bathhaus, a castel- 
lated building, in which the negotia- 
tions for the peace of Westphalia were 
partly carried on, contains a curious 
collection of old plate, some of fine 
models. Fine freestone for building is 
obtained here. In the Domfreiheit 
stands Justus Moser's monument. 

The road to Bremen is good, but 
passes through a dreary country of 
heath, sand, and bog. Some fine oaks 
near the villages. 

3 Bohmte. Inn, Post ; comfortable. 

2 Lehmforde. After this the road 
passes on the 1. a large lake or mere 
called the Diimer See. 

2~ Diepholz. Inn, Post ; very com- 
fortable. A village of 1900 inhab. 



2^ Barnstorf. 



At 



3 Bassum {Inn, Stadt Bremen ; very 
good) is a chapter of noble chanoin- 
esses. Old brick Ch. in the round style, 
square Norman tower. 

4 Bremen. Inns : Stadt Frankfurt ; 
Lindenhof — both very good, and both 
in the Domshof ; Stadt London ; Hill- 
man's Hotel, near the railway, new. 
Droschkies ply at the railway Stat., and 
in the town. 

Money. — Local accounts are kept in 
Grote. The Pruss. Dollar =63 Grote ; 
Dutch Gulden = 36 Grote ; 2 Grote 
= 1 S. gr. Bremen is a beautiful, 
flourishing town, as clean as those of 
Holland, surrounded by gardens and 



Prussia. 



EOUTE 69. — BREMEN. 



375 



new white houses, and containing many 
curious buildings within. It was an- 
ciently a Free City of the Empire, and 
is still one of the 3 Hanse Towns. It 
has 50,000 inhab. (4000 R. Cath.). The 
old town lies on the rt. bank of the 
Weser, and the new town on the 1. 
They are connected by a handsome 
bridge. The dyke of the Weser causes 
some apprehension to the town. No 
dredging being used to deepen the chan- 
nel, the bottom of the river rises by 
degrees, and the dyke is raised year after 
year in consequence, so that in time the 
bed of the river will be on a level with 
the town itself ; and, were the dyke to 
break, immense injury would ensue. 
The dyke gave way during the winter a 
few years ago, and the water overflowed 
a large tract of land, besides washing 
away many houses. The entire territory 
of Bremen is about 3^ Germ, square m. 
in extent, consisting chiefly of drained 
marsh-land, intersected by ditches and 
canals, affording good pasturage to cattle. 
The total pop. does not exceed 60,000 
souls. It is surrounded by the territories 
of Hanover and Oldenburg. It is go- 
verned by a senate, which enjoys the 
dignified title of Die Wittheit (The 
Wisdom). It has some manufactures, 
but its prosperity depends chiefly on its 
shipping and trade with France, Great 
Britain, 1ST. America, the Baltic, and 
Spain. A greater quantity of tobacco 
is imported here than in all the other 
ports of Germany put together, averag- 
ing more than 24 million lbs. annually. 
The improvements in the navigation of 
the Weser and its confluents have ex- 
tended the relations of Bremen into the 
heart of Germany. 

In the Dora (Lutheran), a fine build- 
ing, 12th cent., resembling in parts the 
E. English style, observe the square E. 
end, the very old brass font, and the open 
gallery in the N.E. aisle. The new 
organ is one of the finest in Germany. 
In front of it are some fragments of a 
beautiful roodloft. Under it is a vault 
[Bleikeller) which has the property of 
preserving free from decomposition, 
after the lapse of centuries, several 
bodies interred in it. The sexton who 
shows them to the curious stranger re- 
counts their names and histories, as 



though he were describing a gallery of 
pictures. 

The beautiful Elizabethan Rathhaus, 
in the Market-place (date about 1410), 
ornamented on the S. side with statues 
of the 7 electors and an emperor, 
has been recently restored. In a parti- 
cular compartment of the cellars beneath 
it, shown only by permission of the bur- 
gomaster, are casks called the Rose, 
and the 12 Apostles, filled with fine hock, 
some of it a century and a half old. It 
is sold in glasses or bottles. This nec- 
tar was at one time valued at a ducat a 
glass. " The arches along one side of 
the large vaulted cellar are enclosed by 
wooden partitions with windows and 
doors, and the closets or boxes so formed 
are fitted up with tables and benches. 
Hot suppers and good oysters may be 
had here ; and as an abundant supply 
of excellent Rhenish is close at hand, 
and admirable cigars may be procured 
in Bremen, a very pleasant evening 
may be spent in this crypt." — 67. H. N. 

In the market-place, opposite the 
Bathhaus, is a Rolandsdule or Rolands- 
saule* 18 ft. high, a symbol of the rights 
and privileges of the town, erected 1412 
in the place of a wooden one. The drawn 
sword and the head and hand at the 
feet of the figure refer to the power of 
life and death in criminal causes enjoyed 
by the magistrates. 

In the same place is the Exchange 
(Borse), and the Schiitting, where the 
head merchants meet to transact busi- 
ness. 

The Museum in the Domshof is a 
club where newspapers are taken in, 
and to which a good collection of natu- 
ral history is attached. Here is a Ske- 
leton of a German Thug or murderess, 
who killed 60 persons, including her 3 
husbands. 

* These Roland-columns are found in several 
towns of N. Germany, and were no doubt first 
erected after the conversion of the Germans 
to Christianity, to replace the sacred trees and 
columns around which the chief men of the 
nation used to hold their assemblies. A Roland- 
saule. notwithstanding its mediaeval name, may 
therefore, in some measure, be regarded as 
identical with the famous Irminsul (universalis 
columna) of the Saxons destroyed by Charle- 
magne 772, and with the ash Yggdrasill — the 
world - sustaining tree — of the Scandinavian 
Mythology. 



376 



ROUTE 69 A, — PAPERBORN TO HANOYER. 



Sect. V, 



The Kunsilialle is a fine large build- 
ing devoted to the purposes of art, hold- 
ng the collections of the Art Union. 
Mr.^ Albers has a small but choice col- 
lection of ancient and modern pictures. 

Oilers, the astronomer, who discovered 
in his observatory here the planets 
Vesta and Pallas, was a native of this 
place, as well as Heeren the historian. 
A statue of Oibers, by Steinhauser, a 
Bremen sculptor, has been erected on 
the Boulevard. Pleasant Walks, on the 
site of the rampart or Stadt Wall round 
the town. There is a Theatre for Ger- 
man plays and operas. 

Railroads from Bremen to TVunstorf, 
Lehrte, Hanover, Berlin, Diisseldorf, 
and Cologne. 

Eilwagen to Hamburg, Minden, Mini- 
ster, Oldenburg. 

Steamers ascend and descend the "We- 
ser every day between Bremen and 
Miinden, which is only 3 hours' drive 
from Cassel (Rte. 74 a). 

The depth of water in the "Weser at 
Bremen is only sufficient to admit small 
vessels draAving 7 ft. Ships of burthen 
unload their cargoes at the port of Bre- 
merhafen (Ian, Steinhof), near the 
mouth of the Weser, 30 m. below Bre- 
men, opened in 1830, and built on a 
piece of ground ceded by the govern- 
ment of Hanover. It is rising rapidly 
into importance (3000 inhab.). 35,000 
German emigrants embarked here for 
America in 1845. Steamers run twice 
a day in summer between Bremen and 
Bremerhafen. Steamers ply every week 
in summer to the island Nordernei, one 
of the chain of broken dunes, or sand 
hills, which skirt the coast of Germany 
from Holland to Denmark. It is fre- 
quented as a watering-place by the Ger- 
mans. (Inns : Logirhaus, Kruse's, and 
Schutte.) At low water the island may 
be reached on foot or in a carriage from 
the mainland. A guide, called Strand- 
vogt, shows the way. 

The Weser is usually accessible in 
winter, and the landing is in a commo- 
dious dock at Bremerhafen. 

Steamers run to New York in 16 days, 
twice a month ; between Bremerhafen 
and Hull every week. They are screw 
propellers, and make the voyage in 
about 40 hrs. 



EOUTE 69 a. 



PADERBORN TO HANOVER BY THE GRO- 
TENBERG, EXTERSTEINE, DETMOLD, 
PYRMONT. 

I6f Germ. m. = 78| Eng. m. 

Paderborn. (See Bte. 68.) 

The principal posting-road, and the 
shortest, from Paderborn to Hanover, is 
an interesting and very good road, 
which leads from Paderborn to Pynnonfc 
by Horn and Meinberg, crossing the 
range of the Teutoberger Wald, and 
passing on the 1. the Teut hill, on 
which stands the colossal Herrmanns! 
Denknial (see below), whence most ex- 
tensive views open out over "Westphalia 
and the principality of Dermoid. It 
then, descending a long and steep hill 
covered with wood, and threading a 
gorge, passes through the Extersteine, 
a cluster of bold but grotesque rocks of 
sandstone, rising out of the woods, pic- 
turesquely situated by the side of a 
sheet of water, with trees growing from 
many parts of them. One rock has 
been excavated, in ancient times, into 
a hermitage or chapel, with stairs, 
windows, &c. On the face of the rock 
has been carved a rude bas-relief of the 
Crucifixion, dating probably from the 
10th cent. These rocks have been ren- 
dered accessible by steps with railings, 
and a bridge thrown across one of the 
chasms, "so that you may ascend to all 
the summits and enjoy an extensive 
view. The loftiest mass is 125 ft. high. 
The grounds about are laid out in gar- 
dens. This is a favourite rendezvous 
for picnic parties from Pp-mont, Det- 
mold, and Meinberg. Close at hand 
is an inn. A few m. farther lies Horn, 
after passing through which Herrmanns 
Denkmal is seen at a considerable dis- 
tance W". on the summit of a hill. At 
Horn horses are changed during the 
winter, but at other seasons at 

4 Meinberg. Inns: Zur Bose (Post), 
and zuni Stern. This is a small but 
very pretty watering-place, with sul- 
phur and other baths, besides gas-ex- 
halations, which are used in cases of 
weak eyes. The waters have the repu- 
tation of producing the same effect as an 
invocation of St. Josse-ten-noode at 
Brussels. The gardens are extensive 
and neatly laid out. 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 69 A. — DETMOLD. 



377 



The Hermannsdenkmal may be visited 
from Meinberg by taking a light car- 
riage with 2 horses from thence. The 
road thither lies through Detmold, 
and the ascent from Meinberg occupies 
2f hrs. and the return If hr. : the hire 
of a carriage will be about 6 thalers. 
The road ascends from Detmold. It is 
not very steep, and is in tolerable order. 

On the Grotenberg (Teut), the highest 
summit of the Teutoberger Wald, 1200 
ft. above the sea level, a monument to 
the old German hero Herrmann, or Ar- 
minius, Chief of the Cherusci, who de- 
feated the Eoman legions under Varus 
(see pp. 359, 371), has been begun, 
after a lapse of 19 centuries since that 
event, by subscription throughout Ger- 
many. It is to be a colossal statue of 
hammered copper, 45 ft. high and 80 ft. 
to the point of the sword. The pedes- 
tal which supports it is a circular Gothic 
temple of sandstone 90 ft. high. The 
statue was made at the copper- works in 
Lemgo, and lies in disjointed portions 
in a shed. The temple is nearly finished, 
but from want of funds the works have 
been suspended for some years. The 
projector and architect is Mr. Bandel. 
It stands in a wild and gloomy situa- 
tion, and overlooks the spot where the 
battle is supposed to have been fought. 
The view from it is truly magnificent, 
and will alone repay the trouble of as- 
cending the mountain. There is a large 
rampart of loose stones and several bar- 
rows (Himengraber — Giants' graves — 
as they are called in 1ST. Germany) near 
the spot. 



The schnellpost from Paderborn, in- 
stead of passing through the valley of the 
Extersteine, goes round by Detmold to 
Meinberg. 

4 "Detmold (Inn, Stadt Frankfurt, 
tolerable), 4000 inhab., is the capital of 
the principality of Lippe Detmold. The 
Palace is a fine old castellated building, 
somewhat in the style of the castle of 
Glammis in Scotland, having a vast round 
corner tower or Donjon, with additions 
of an Elizabethan character. The best 
view of it is from the upper windows of 
the Inn, which is opposite to it. The 
prince is very rich, being the owner of 



almost all the large estates in his do- 
minions, and all the forests, which are 
as abundantly stocked with game as any 
in Germany. He is consequently able 
to support all the expenses of the go- 
vernment, so that the inhabitants are 
required to pay hardly any taxes, and 
are much envied by their neighbours, 
who are not equally exempted. The 
Palace Gardens are prettily arranged. 
The Marstall is a very fine stable, re- 
markably well kept, and worth the in- 
spection of those who take an interest 
in horses. It contains in general 60 
horses, all of the Senner race, and are 
bred at the prince's establishment of 
Lobshorn, about 5 m. from Detmold. 
This breed of horses is peculiar. They 
are allowed to run wild in the Senner 
Wald (from whence they take their 
name), which is of great extent, and 
possess in consequence great endurance, 
and are very hardy, but, on the other 
hand, very shy and troublesome to 
break. They are taken up on the 1st 
of November and turned out again on 
the 1st of May, without any reference 
either to their condition at the time or 
the state of the weather. The race is 
of Arabian origin, and has been occa- 
sionally refreshed by new Arabian 
blood. There is evidence of a stud 
having existed here since the 15th cent., 
and it is supposed to be still older. 
Experiments have recently been made 
for the first time in crossing this race 
with the best English blood. The es- 
tablishment possesses about 120 mares." 
L. S. b. e. 

(Nearly N. of Detmold, and 1£ Germ, 
m. distant, on the road to the Herford 
Stat., on the Cologne and Minden rail- 
way, is the curious old town of Lemgo, 
containing singular specimens of Gothic 
architecture, among which is a pictur- 
esque Eathhaus. Lemgo is 2| Germ, 
m. from the Herford Stat., Rte. 66.) 

1 Meinberg. 



Beyond Meinberg the road passes; 
through a beautiful country to 

3"f Pyrmont. For an account of Pyr- 
mont and the rest of the road to Hano- 
ver, see Rte. 71. 



378 



R. 70. — FRANKFURT A. M. TO CASSEL. NAUHEIM. Sect. V. 



EOUTE 70. 

FRANKFURT A.'M. TO CASSEL. 

124— Eng. m. The railway between 
Frankfurt and Cassel (the Main-Weser- 
Eisenbahn) is open (Aug. 1851) between 
Frankfurt and Friedberg, and between 
Kirchain, near Marburg, and Cassel. 
The whole of it will probably soon be 
open. It nearly follows the line of the 
post-road as far as Marburg. There is 
a good macadamised road for the rest of 
the way. Trains — Frankfurt to Fried- 
berg in 1 hr. ; Kirchain to Cassel in 
3 hrs. 

Bockenheim Stat. 

Bonames Stat. 

Vilbel Stat. 

Niederwollstadt Stat. About 2 m. to 
the E. of this, in the valley of the Mdda, 
the Basilica Ch. of Ilbenstadt, with 
towers of the 12th cent., belonging to 
Count Leiningen, is seen. 

Friedberg Stat, (a fine new Hotel), a 
town of Hesse Darmstadt, with 3300 
inhab. The situation on a hill, and the 
old walls, with one lofty round tower, 
are very fine. It has an old castle, and 
two handsome Gothic churches ; one in 
the town ruinous, the other in the 
castle. 

At Nauheim Stat. {Lin, Kursaal), a 
little beyond Friedberg, in an enclave 
of the electorate of Cassel, there are ex- 
tensive Salt-works. They were so valu- 
able even in the time of Napoleon that 
he granted them to Kellermann, who 
held them for 4 or 5 years. In the 
winter of 1846 the proprietors had been 
for some time endeavouring to bore 
into a bed of natural salt which the 
geologists say exists here. Their efforts, 
however, had not been attended with 
success, until one night, during a slight 
shock of earthquake, a column of strong 
brine, at a temperature of 96 Fahr., 
rose from the bore-hole, and has ever 
since discharged every 24 hrs., with 
great velocity, a column of water nearly 
18 inch, in diameter. The fountain has 
been enclosed in a brick shaft to a height 
of about 40 ft. ; but it rises in a white 
jet, resembling the corolla of a tropical 
flower, from 12 to 15 ft. above the top 
of this. The water is conducted into a 
bath-house, where also, the carbonic 



acid gas which rises from these intensely 
saline springs is medically applied. 
There is a resident physician, Dr. Bode. 

If Butzbach. The German vagrants, 
known in London as Bavarian broom- 
girls (Fliegenwedel-handler), come, not 
from Bavaria, but from villages in this 
neighbourhood, to the N. of Frankfurt, 
in Nassau and Hesse. Friedberg, Butz- 
bach behind the Hausberg, and Espe, 
have for 20 years past sent forth crowds 
of them annually. At first they were 
taken over by the broom-makers, ready 
to sell their brooms ; but in a short time 
they discovered other and less moral 
modes of earning money. The specu- 
lators, perceiving this, enticed from their 
homes many young girls, under pre- 
tence of hiring them as servants. Some 
of these poor creatures have never been 
heard of by their parents ; others have 
returned ruined and broken in consti- 
tution ; and innumerable actions have 
been brought against the planners of 
this disgraceful traffic. The magistrates 
of these towns have at length interfered, 
and any person discovered taking away 
a child, or any female but a wife, is 
subject to heavy penalties. "Waldburg, 
near Butzbach, is a very beautiful spot. 
2 ruined castles, Fetzberg and Gleiberg, 
on separate eminences near 

2^ Giessen. — Inns : Jtappe, good ; 
Post; Einhorn (Unicorn), only toler- 
able. This, the chief town of the pro- 
vince of Upper Hesse, is beautifully 
situated on the Lahn; it has 8000 
inhab. The University, founded in 
1607, has an excellent library ; a large 
barrack has been converted to the uses 
of learning, in addition to the building 
of the University itself. Liebig the 
chemist is professor here. 

The excursion hence, down the vale 
of the Lahn, to "Wetzlar, Coblenz, and 
Ems, is very agreeable". (See Rte. 96.) 
Eilwagen to Coblenz — to Fulda. From 
Giessen to Marburg the course of the 
railway is down the valley of the Lahn. 

2 Bellnhausen is the first station in 
Hesse Cassel. Cross the Lahn. 

1^ Marburg. — Inn, Deutsches Haus, 
Bitter. Marburg is a town of 7600 
inhab., on the Lahn ; picturesquely 
situated on the side and slopes of a hill, 
but with narrow and dirty streets. 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 70. — MARBURG. CASSEL. 



379 



The University was the first founded 
in Germany after the Reformation 
(] 527) ; it has 40 professors, hut not 
more than 200 students ; it has a good 
library. 

The Ch. of St. Elizdbeth,begim 1235, 
and completed in 48 years, is a most 
elegant and interesting edifice, as a 
specimen of very early purity in the 
pointed Gothic style, and in perfect 
preservation. In many parts it ex- 
hibits the transition from the Round 
into the Pointed style. In one arm of 
the transept is the richly ornamented 
Gothic Chapel of St. Elizabeth, to 
whom the church is dedicated. She 
was a Landgravine of Hesse, and 
was canonised for the sanctity of her 
life in 1235. The stone steps around 
it are worn hollow by the knees of 
pilgrims who resorted to it for many 
ages. Within is a carved tablet, re- 
presenting the saint lying on her coffin 
surrounded by cripples and sick per- 
sons, the objects of her bounty: her 
soul is seen hovering above her head, 
on its way to heaven, whence Christ 
extends to her his hand. The Shrine 
which contained her body is now placed 
in the sacristy ; it is of oak covered 
with plates of copper gilt, and orna- 
mented with bas-reliefs of solid silver 
gilt. It was originally richly inlaid 
with pearls, antique cameos, and costly 
gems, but a great part of these were 
stolen in 1810, when the shrine was 
removed by the French to Cassel. In 
the opposite transept are the curious 
■monuments of some of the Landgraves 
of Hesse in stone, with the ornamental 
parts of brass, in relief, and handsome 
in their way, quite different from Eng- 
lish brasses. The painted glass in the 
windows of the choir is very beautiful. 
Great damage was done to this church 
by a storm (Wolkenbruch, or the 
bursting of a cloud) in 1847. 

On the Schlossberg rises proudly the 
Castle of the Landgraves of Hesse, a 
structure of the chivalrous ages, now a 
Penitentiary. It commands a very fine 
prospect. It is well worth seeing, both 
for its architecture and situation, par- 
ticularly the Gateway, the Chapel, and 
the Knights' Hall, in which Luther and 
Zwingli discussed the question of Tran- 



substantiation, in the presence of the 
Landgrave (Philip the Magnanimous) 
of Hesse, 1529. The Lahn is again 
crossed. 

2~ Kirchhain Stat. The railway 
from Cassel is at present (1851) open 
only as far as this place. 

Neustadt Stat. 

Treisa Stat. 

Borken Stat. 

"Wabern Stat. The elector has a 
country seat here containing some pic- 
tures. [1 Germ. m. W. is Fritzlar 
{Inn, H. d'Angleterre) on the Eder, 
from whose sands gold is washed. The 
beautiful Stiftskirche is Gothic, of the 
12th cent.] 

The railway crosses the Fulda. 

Guntershausen Stat. Near this the 
Railway to Eisenach (Rte. 92) diverges 
from that to Frankfurt. Our line 
crosses the avenue to Wilhelmshohe 
(p. 381) before reaching 

Cassel Stat. — Inns ; Kbnig von 
Preussen (in the Konigs Platz, an oval 
Place, remarkable for the echo in the 
centre) ; a good inn, but rather dear : 
Romischer Kaiser. The capital of the 
Electorate of Hesse Cassel is situated 
on the Fulda, and contains 32,500 
inhab. It is the residence of the Elector 
(who retains the title, though there is 
now no Emperor of Germany to elect), 
and seat of the government. The 
old town lies low down, close to the 
river banks, and consists of narrow and 
dirty streets, while the new part, built 
upon an elevation formerly occupied 
by a fortress, is airy and agreeable. In 
the Friedrichs Platz, the largest square 
in any German town, stands the Elec- 
tor's Palace, a building of no very im- 
posing appearance, surpassed indeed by 
the hotels of several bankers in Frank- 
fort. Next to it is the Museum, the 
handsomest building in Cassel ; beyond 
it are the government offices. One side 
of the square, on the brow of the hill, 
is very judiciously left open, to admit 
the view of the valley, the windings of 
the Fulda, and the distant Mount Meiss- 
ner. On this side a light gateway 
leads to the Public Garden (Augarten), 
a very handsome park, abounding in 
fine trees (observe the Weymouth 
pines), but subject to inundations. In 



380 



ROUTE 70. — CASSEL. MUSEUM. PICTURES. Sect. V. 



the middle of the square is placed tlie 
statue of •the Elector Frederick II., 
after whom it is named. To this prince 
Cassel owes its principal embellishments 
and collections of art, &c. &c. His 
wealth was acquired by trafficking in 
the lives of his subjects, whom he lent 
to the King of Great Britain to fight 
his battles in America and elsewhere ; 
5000 Hessian troops were hired, with 
the consent of Parliament, against the 
Pretender in Scotland. 22 million 
dollars were paid for 12,000 Hessians 
sent to America 1776-84. 

The Museum, open to the public from 
10 to 1 daily, includes, 1, A Library 
of 90,000 volumes, useful, "but not cal- 
culated to interest a passing traveller. 
2, A Cabinet of Curiosities in art and 
nature. One room is nearly filled with 
watches and clockwork, from the ear- 
liest invented watches made at Nu- 
remburg, shaped like eggs, and wound 
up with a piece of catgut, instead of a 
chain, to the most perfect chronometers. 
One of the Electors was an amateur 
watch-maker, and several specimens of 
his work are here preserved. Here are 
also a great variety of agates from the 
mines near Marburg, in the Elector's 
dominions, now abandoned ; one single 
mass is formed into a staff 3 or 4 ft. 
long. Among many elaborate carvings 
in wood and ivory is one attributed to 
Albert Diirer. An enamelled dagger 
hilt is believed to be by Benvenuto 
Cellini. A sword given by Pope Inno- 
cent VIII. to a Landgrave of Hesse. 
2 hunting cases, with coats of arms in 
brass. Many cases are entirely filled 
with objects of art and virtu, in amber, 
ivory, precious stones, gold and silver 
plate. Antiquities. These were chiefly 
brought from Herculaneum. A little 
bronze statue of Victory, known by 
casts all over Europe, is the gem of 
the collection; an exquisitely shaped 
bronze vase also merits notice. Many 
of the remains are interesting, from 
having been found in Germany or 
Hesse Cassel itself : a Roman Eagle of 
the 21st Legion, and a helmet, were 
dug up at "Wiesbaden. The coins, 
medals, and cameos are well- arranged 
for general inspection, under glass cases. 
Antique Statues. A Minerva, a bas- 



relief of the Triumph of Bacchus, and 
a bronze head of Mars, are the best ; 
they were purchased from the Pope for 
40,000 dollars. Among modern works 
are several busts by Canova, of Napo- 
leon, of his son when a child 5 years 
old, and of his family. The Cork 
Models of ancient buildings are good. 

The Collection of Natural History is 
not very extensive or excellent. Be- 
sides the usual quantity of stuffed birds 
and quadrupeds, there are specimens of 
the woods of 500 different European 
trees, made up in the form of a library ; 
each specimen has the shape of a 
volume ; the back is formed of tbe 
bark ; the sides of the perfect wood ; 
the top of the young wood, with nar- 
row rings; the bottom of old wood, 
with rings wider apart. When the 
volume is opened it is found to be a 
little box containing the flower, seed, 
fruit, and leaves of the tree, either 
dried or imitated in wax. A trunk of 
a laurel which grew in the orangery 
here, 58 ft. high and 2 ft. diameter, is 
another botanical curiosity. Among 
the fossils are two specimens of the 
gigantic Chama shell dug up by the 
side of the road to Frankfurt ; this shell 
exists at present only in tropical seas. 
The Museum is shown by the Director, 
who receives a fee of 2 dollars, and 1 
dollar for a single person ; but when 
the party is numerous 8 or 10 gute 
groschen are enough for each person. 

The Picture Gallery, in the Belve- 
dere, open Wed. 10 — 12, and at other 
times on payment of a fee of 1 Thaler 
to the Custod, contains a few very good 
pictures among a multitude of bad ; it 
is very ill arranged, and not always 
accessible. The best pictures are of the 
Dutch school, viz., there are some ex- 
cellent portraits by Rembrandt, others 
particularly fine by Vandyk, a remark- 
ably fine Rubens — the Meeting of Abra- 
ham and Melchisedec, figures life size ; 
Rembrandt, the capture of Samson ; 
Vandyk, Portrait of Syndic Mostraeten, 
and a family group ; Mabu-se, Triumph 
of Christianity ; Titian, whole length 
of Don Alphonzo; Holbein, a family 
picture ; Tenters, Peasants at a Kirmess ; 
Silenus by Jordaens, nearly equal to 
Bubens ; and a good piece by Terbury. 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 70.— CASSEL. WILHELMSHOHE. 



381 



Many of the best pictures have been 
removed to the Hermitage, St. Peters- 
burg, and to other places. 

In the Gothic Ch. of St. Martin, well 
restored, are several monuments of the 
Electoral family, whose burial vault is 
beneath it. That of Philip the Mag- 
nanimous occupies the place of the high 
altar (d. 1567). 

A little below the Friedrichs Platz 
may be seen the foundation and first 
story of a vast Palace, called Kattenburg, 
begun 1820, by a former Elector, and 
stopped by his death 1821, now over- 
grown with moss and weeds. 

The Marble Bath, in the Augarten, 
is a sumptuous piece of extravagance. 
Though it really contains a bath,' this 
was introduced merely as a pretext for 
spending money and employing marble, 
with which its walls are covered. It 
is stocked with statues and bas-reliefs, 
by Monnot, an artist of the last cent., 
whose works, deficient in elevation and 
purity, have been termed the "Dutch 
School " of sculpture. Near this build- 
ing is the Orangery. 

The Theatre, at the corner of the 
Friedrichs Platz, is generally open 4 
times a- week ; the Opera is tolerably 
good. Spohr the composer resides here. 

Cassel and its rulers afforded an 
asylum to the fugitive Flemish Pro- 
testants, driven from their country by 
the persecutions under Alva ; and after- 
wards to the French Huguenots, exiled 
by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. 
These colonists contributed much to the 
wealth and prosperity of the town by 
their industry, as well as to its extent. 
— One part of it is still called, after 
them, the French quarter. 

Johannes von Muller, the Swiss his- 
torian (died 1809), is buried in the old 
churchyard, outside the Todten Thor. 

The old porcelain figures of Cassel 
are much esteemed. 

Bookseller. — Fischer, an intelligent 
man, speaks English, and is ready to 
give information to travellers. 

Cassel lies on the old post road from 
Cologne and Diisseldorf to Berlin. 
(Bte. 67.) Schnellposts daily to Mag- 
deburg, Cologne, Hanover, and Fulda. 

Railways — to Frankfurt — to Eisenach 
— to Karlshafen, Paderborn, and Koln. 



Eailway to Halle, Thuringian line, in 
8 hours. 

No one should quit Cassel without 
visiting the famous Gardens of "Wil- 
helmshohe, the German Versailles. 
The Elector's summer palace, within 
them, is only 3 m. from Cassel, but 
they extend behind it to the top of a 
high hill, which is a good hour's walk 
in addition. "Wednesday and Sunday 
are the best days for going thither, as 
the waterworks then play, generally at 
half-past 2 in the afternoon. A day 
may be agreeably spent here in explor- 
ing the fine views and natural beauties 
of the spot, setting aside its artificial 
marvels ; and there is a very good Inn 
close to the palace to accommodate 
visitors. Near the Inn is the New 
Waterfall 130 feet high. 

A straight avenue of limes leads from 
the Wilhelmshohe- Gate of Cassel, where 
carriages stand for hire to convey pas- 
sengers, (rt.) On quitting the town is 
a huge edifice built by Jerome Buona- 
parte, while King of "Westphalia, as a 
barrack, now turned into a manufactory 
and poor-house. The vista is termi- 
nated by the figure of the Colossal Her- 
cules on the top of the hill behind 
"Wilhelmshohe. 

The Palace lies at the foot of the hill ; 
at the side of it stands the Theatre, built 
by King Jerome Buonaparte (quondam 
cloth-merchant at Baltimore), in which 
he used himself to act ; it is now turned 
into a ball-room. Behind it are the 
Conservatories, and the Fountain, the 
highest in Europe, except that at 
Chatsworth, which throws up a jet 
of water, 12 inches in diameter, 190 ft. 
It is supplied from reservoirs 300 ft. 
higher up the hill. At the back of the 
pond out of which it rises, is an arti- 
ficial waterfall descending from a tall 
aqueduct. Both it and the Fountain 
remain inactive and empty, except on 
Sundays and "Wednesdays. Their per- 
formances do not continue more than 
50 minutes. 

The more ancient Cascade of the 
Karlsburg consists of a flight of stone 
steps, 900 ft. long, leading up to the 
colossal statue ; over which a stream 
of water is at times admitted to fall. A 
carriage road conducts by the side of 



382 



ROUTE 71. — CASSEL TO HANOVER. 



Sect. Y. 



this gigantic staircase, in zigzags, to 
the very top of the hill. Upon a sort 
of landing-place or platform, half-way 
up the stairs, is a rude representation 
of the Giant Enceladus, lying on his 
back, with a mountain of rocks heaped 
on his breast ; it was the intention of 
the artist who formed him that he 
should spout from his mouth a jet of 
water 50 feet high ; this is now dried 
up. The staircase of this chateau d'eau 
(imitated, it is said, from that in the 
villa d'Este) is surmounted by an oc- 
tagon building 1312 ft. above the Fulda, 
surmounted by a pyramid, serving as a 
pedestal to the Colossal Hercules, 31 ft. 
high, of beaten copper. It is possible 
to mount up into the figure ; 8 persons 
can stand at one time in the hollow of 
the club, and, out of a little window 
formed in it, enjoy a prospect extending 
nearly as far as the Brocken. But the 
delightful view can be obtained from 
the top of the hill without so much 
trouble. The aquatic staircase, and the 
octagon Temple of the "Winds, as it is 
called, on its summit, with the statue, 
and other extravagances connected with 
it, are reported to have employed 2000 
men for 14 years. When their labours 
were completed the cost was found to 
be so enormous that the accounts were 
burnt, to destroy all records of it. N.B. 
This structure is undergoing repairs, 
during which it is not accessible. 

In descending, a visit may be paid 
to the Lowenburg, a toy castle, built to 
imitate a stronghold of the middle ages, 
with drawbridges, battlements, towers, 
and ditches. Among the rusty suits in 
his armoury is one which belonged to the 
Great Conde; there is also a very curi- 
ous collection of drinking -glasses, a 
series of portraits of the Tudors and 
Stuarts, and a library filled with ro- 
mances alone. The Elector who built 
this castle is buried in the chapel. 
Those who have no taste for the follies 
above enumerated, will at least be gra- 
tified with the charming and various 
prospects from the slopes of the Lowen- 
burg, and its agreeable gardens and 
pleasure-grounds. 



ROUTE 71. 

CASSEL TO HANOVER BY PYRMOiST. 

20 A Pruss. miles = 96 Eng. m. 

A post road, macadamised nearly all 
the way. A railway (Friedrich-Wil- 
helms Nordbahn) was opened in 1849, 
from Cassel to Karlshafen : 5 J Germ, 
m. = 25£ Eng. m. in length, traversed 
in If hour. 

Schnellpost from Karlshafen to Pyr- 
mont every day in 9J hours ; thence to 
Hanover every day in 8 hours. 

Wilhelmsthal, a country-seat of the 
Elector, is like a good English country- 
house, with pleasure grounds and fine 
trees;- furnished in Bococo style of 
Louis XV.' s time, and with portraits by 
Tischbein. 

Grebenstein Stat. 

3 Hofgeismar Stat., a town of 3200 
inhab., haying warm chalybeate springs, 
not much frequented. The Bath-houses 
He in a valley about 1\ mile off. There 
are pleasant walks in the neighbour- 
hood, and at a short distance a chateau 
of the Elector's, called Schonberg. 
Handsome barracks have been built 
here. 

Humme Stat. 

Trendelburg Stat. The castle of 
Trendelburg, on the Diemel, is pic- 
turesquely situated. 

3 Karlshafen Stat. {Inn, Schwan, 
tolerable) is beautifully situated on the 
Weser, but subject to floods ; 1600 in- 
hab. It was founded in 1700, and colo- 
nised by emigrant Huguenots driven out 
of France at the revocation of the Edict 
of Nantes. Many of them came from 
valleys in the French Alps which border 
on the country of the Vaudois, — Val 
Pragelas, Clusone, Embrun, &c. (p. 
396). 

From this to Hoxter the road runs 
by the side of the "Weser, and within the 
Prussian territory, nearly as far as Pyr- 
mont. The banks of the "Weser (Vi- 
surgis, clade Bomanoruru nobilis anrnis 
— Velleius) are picturesque, without 
being grand ; the scenery has been 
compared with that of the Wye, and 
abounds in finely wooded hills, often 
descending to the water's edge. 

2f Hoxter. (Bte. 6S.) The road 
passes over high ground, and near the 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 71. — CASSEL TO HANOVER. PYRMONT. 



383 



base of a wooded mountain called 
Koterberg, from whose top tbere is said 
to be a fine view ; it. may be visited 
from Pyrmont. 

2 Ruschenau. 

1 \ P Y rmont . Inns : Notting' s Hotel ; 
Hemmericb, the best; the Crown 
(Krone) ; Stadt Brenieif ; Caffe-haus, 
in which are inferior Gambling-Tables. 
The principal gaming-tables are in the 
Concert Saal. There is a daily table- 
d'hote during the season in the above- 
mentioned inns. 

Pyrmont, situated at the foot of a 
range of wooded hills, is one of the 
oldest watering-places in Europe ; it 
was frequented by Charlemagne. Its 
mineral waters were so high in repute, 
in 1556, that 10,000 visitors collected 
here to use them ; and as there was no 
accommodation for such a number in 
the town, a camp was formed on the 
outside of it, where they spent a quarter 
of a year under tents. It now belongs 
to the Prince of Waldeck, who has a 
Palace here, in which he resides in the 
season. He derives from this small 
town of 1800 inhab. annually 160,000 
dollars, and his total revenue is not 
more than 250,000. The concourse of 
visitors, however, has fallen off. The 
season is in July and August. 

The principal street, in which are all 
the chief buildings, is lined with a 
double row of limes, and is called the 
Grosse Allee : it forms a shady walk, 
frequented at all times of the day, and 
is the morning promenade for those 
who drink the waters ; at that time a 
band of music plays for their entertain- 
ment. There are several other avenues 
in the town. The Palace Garden is 
surrounded by a rampart and moat : on 
one of the bastions grows a lime of great 
size and apparent age. 

12 different mineral springs rise in 
and about the town. The Trinkquelle 
is the one most in repute : its water is 
chalybeate — possessing valuable medi- 
cinal properties. 300,000 bottles of it 
are exported annually. It produces an 
exhilarating or even intoxicating effect, 
when several glasses are taken together; 
it is highly impregnated with carbonic 
acid gas, and effervesces like cham- 
pagne. The gas Douche, or pipe by 



which the gas arising from the water is 
inhaled, or directed to any part, is tre- 
mendously powerful. These chalybeates 
require great caution, and do much 
harm if improperly taken. 

The Well-house , above the Trinkquelle, 
is an octagonal building, surmounted 
by a clock-tower. The Augenbrunnen 
is said to be good for sore eyes. The 
principal baths are das neue Badhaus, 
and das Badhaus fur Eisenbdder (for 
chalybeate baths). 

There are other springs here of saline 
and acidulous water ; one of the latter 
is totally without gas, an unique ex- 
ample of the kind. 

One of the curiosities of the place is 
the Gas grotto, or Dunsthohle, an arti- 
ficial cavity hollowed out of the rock, 
from which rise noxious vapours simi- 
lar to those of the Grotto del Cane in 
Italy. A person approaching it with- 
out being aware of their nature might 
be seriously injured ; it is therefore en- 
closed. A stream of carbonic acid gas 
is constantly issuing from fissures in 
the sandstone (Buntersandstein), and 
in particular states of the atmosphere 
forms a stratum of suffocating vapour, 
which lies on the surface of the ground. 
It sometimes stands so high that child- 
ren, and even adults stooping down to 
draw water from the springs, become 
sensibly affected by it, perceiving a 
prickling in the nose and a smarting in 
the eyes. Though the vapour is not 
so poisonous as that of the Grotto del 
Cane, it is fatal to animal life after a 
short exposure to it. A rabbit is killed 
by it in 8 or 10 minutes ; a cat dies 
after 15. 

There is a Theatre here, two Ball- 
rooms, and numerous tables for rouge 
et noir, hazard, &c. 

A small congregation of . Quakers 
maintains itself here. 

Schnellposts daily to Herfond (Rte. 
66), on the Cologne and Berlin Bail- 
way to Hanover. 

The Extersteine, a picturesque as- 
semblage of rocks, 16 m. distant (p. 
376). The Bomberg is worth a visit on 
account of its view : it is accessible for 
carriages. Some antiquaries have placed 
the " Saltus Teutoburgicus," the forest 
in which the Roman legions under 



384 



EOUTE 72. — GASSEL TO HANOVER. GOTTINGEN. Sect. V. 



Varus were defeated by Hermann (Ar- 
minius) (p. 371), between Pyrmont and 
Detmold. Hermann's Castle is said to 
have stood on the Hermannsberg, 5 m. 
from Prymont. (For Detmold see 
p. 377.) 

On quitting Pyrmont our road as- 
cends the hills, and soon reaches the 
Hanoverian custom-house. 

3 Hameln [Inns: Sonne; Stadt 
Bremen), a Hanoverian town of 6293 
inhabs., in a pretty situation on the 
"Weser, here crossed by an iron suspen- 
sion bridge, 816 ft. long, hanging from 
a pier which rises from an island in the 
middle. It is a curious old place, full 
of wooden houses in the old German 
style, and has one fine Church, the 
Minster of St. Boniface, with a crypt. 
The hill on the opposite side of the 
river is laid out in public walks, and 
here is a grotto celebrated for its beer. 
Hameln was once a strong fortress, and 
on this hill stood a strong citadel, the 
Bastille of Hanover; but the French 
blew up its works in 1808. Agreeable 
excursions may be made up and down 
the charming valley of the "Weser. Ohr, 
a country-house, with pretty grounds, 
on the Ohrberg, is worth a visit. 

2§ Springe. Beyond this the last hill 
is surmounted, and the road descends 
into the sandy but cultivated plain. 

'6\ Hanover (Ete. 66). 

EOUTE 72. 

CASSEL TO HANOVER, BY GOTTINGEN. 

21 Germ. m. = 98 Eng. m. Schnell- 
post daily, in 18 hours. 

A range of hills intervenes between 
Cassel and Munden. On the summit 
is the frontier of Hanover ; and here is 
situated the Custom-house, managed 
according to the new Prussian sj»stem 
(§ 30, 43). The road commands fine 
views on either side of the hill. It 
descends towards Munden, into the pic- 
turesque valley of the Fulda, by a 
number of well - constructed zigzags. 
The postmasters compel travellers to 
take additional horses this stage in going 
to Cassel. 

2f Munden (Hannoverisch) . — Inns: 
Krone ; Stadt Bremen ; Goldener Lowe. 
A town of 6000 inhab., situated be- 



tween the Fulda and "Werra. These 
two streams unite immediately below 
the town, and losing their names, be- 
come the Weser, which is navigable 
hence to the sea by steamers (Ete. 74a). 

The Schloss, or old castle, built 1566, 
by Duke Erich II., formerly a residence 
of the Guelphic ancestors of the Eoyal 
Family of England, is turned into a 
magazine. The Ch. of St. Blaise is a 
fine building of the 14th century, and 
contains a monument of Erich II. 
From the public walk called the Andreas 
Berg, there is a good view of the town 
and the surrounding country. 

The scenery round the town is pleas- 
ing, and has been compared with that 
of the Vale of Llangollen, in N. "Wales. 

The road to Gottingen follows a 
pretty valley up to Oberschedl, where 
it mounts to the plateau of the Leine, 
a district fruitful in oats, but dreary. 

2 Dransfeld. The village was burnt 
in 1834, except 2 or 3 houses. 

If Gottingen. — Inns: Krone ; Stadt 
London ; Englischer Hof. None very 
good. Gottingen lies on the Leine, 
and has 11,000 inhab. It is remark- 
able only for its University. It is des- 
titute of fine buildings, and the houses, 
though old, are neither venerable nor 
picturesque in their antiquity, except, 
perhaps, the Eathhaus, a castellated 
edifice. 

The Eamparts, now planted with 
trees, serve as a walk, resembling the 
walls of Chichester. There is an air of 
solitude about the town, which even 
the number of students cannot remove. 
Theymay be distinguished in the streets 
by the almost inseparable pipe and port- 
folio with which each is provided. 
Commerce seems to be confined to lite- 
rature and tobacco ; and the only 
flourishing trades are the booksellers 
and pipe-sellers, as their shoj)s out- 
number all others. 

The University (Georgia Augusta) 
ranks high in Germany. It was founded 
in 1737, by Geo. II., at the suggestion 
of his minister Munchausen. It is re- 
garded as the national university of 
Brunswick, Mecklenburg, and Nassau, 
as well as of Hanover. The colour of 
the cap distinguishes the country of 
each student. 



Hanover. 



ROUTE 72. — GOTTINGEN. HILDESHEIM. 



385 



The number of students is about 750, 
and of professors 60 or 70. 

William IV. gave 3000?. towards 
erecting a building for the University, 
which was completed and opened in 
1837. In the Concilien Gebaude (Coun- 
cil-house), behind the library, academi- 
cal offences are tried. The Aula, in 
which degrees are conferred, &c, is an 
arrangement very much like the Senate- 
house at Cambridge, but not so large. 
Though gaudily painted, it is on the 
whole a handsome and effective room. 
Under the same roof are the meeting 
room of the Gottingen Academy, and 
on the upper floor the prison-cells 
(kerker), in which students are con- 
fined by the authority of the Pro-rector 
of the University and the Senatus 
Academicus. It appears from the 
inscriptions on the walls made by 
these culprits that imprisonments of 
10 days are not unusual. These se- 
veral parts of the University may be 
seen on payment of a trifling fee to the 
keeper. 

Duels take place almost every day, 
sometimes 4 or 5 per diem, at a house 
a short distance outside the gates. The 
beadle of the university, who shows the 
museum, told the writer that even his 
son had fought 27 since his academical 
studies began. The first week after 
entering he received a gash on the 
cheek; and before the wound was healed 
he was brought home with his nose slit. 
But what could the beadle do? His 
son's antagonist, the perpetrator of this, 
was the son of the Pro-rector of the 
University ! 

The Library, situated in what was 
once a handsome church, is excellent, 
and very extensive, having 300,000 
printed volumes and 5000 MSS., and 
better arranged than that of the British 
Museum. It is very rich in modern 
literature and in scientific works. 

The Museum of Natural History is 
not worthy of the University ; but the 
late Prof. Blumenbach bequeathed to it 
his valuable collection, including human 
skulls of the natives of all quarters of 
the globe. Here are some dresses 
brought from the South Seas by Capt. 
Cook, and a few paintings. 

The Botanic Garden is very good 
[N. G.] 



under Professor Bartlings, and contains 
a fine collection of Alpine plants. 

The Gottingen sausages possess some 
reputation among epicures. Bologna, 
Oxford, and Cambridge, all university 
towns, enjoy a similar celebrity. 

The excursion to the Harz is very 
conveniently made from Gottingen, by 
way of Nordheim and Osterode. (Rte. 
73.) 

2f Nordheim, p. 388. 

2± Eimbeck. A town of 5000 inhab. , 
on the lime. New church well re- 
stored ; — old church also good : Rath- 
haus, date 1593. The vale of the lime 
is pretty and fertile ; it leads to Ahle- 
feld, agreeably situated ; handsome 
tower, with 4 turrets ; a bad road to 
Hildesheim, but through a pretty 
country. 

If Ammensen. Here is the Bruns- 
wick Custom-house, very troublesome 
to travellers; a narrow strip of territory 
united to the Zollverein (§ 30) cuts off 
all the S. of Hanover. 

U Alfeld. 

1^- Bruggen. — Inn, Post. 

lj Elze. — Inn, Post; best on the road. 

1^ Thiedenwiese. 

2 1 Hanover. (Page 361.) 

As a railway branching S. from 
Lehrte connects Hildesheim, which is 
a very interesting town, with Hanover, 
the best way is to proceed from Alfeld 
to Hildesheim direct, 3J Germ. m. 

Hildesheim Stat. — (Inns, Bheinischer 
Hof ; Wiener Hof.) An ancient episco- 
pal city, with 15,000 inhab. and some 
manufactures. 

The Cathedral is a remarkable build- 
ing of the 11th cent. ; its bronze gates, 
16 ft. high, are a curious and valuable 
specimen of art, made for Bishop Bern- 
ward, 1015; the subject of the bas- 
reliefs is the First and Second Adam. 
(See St. Paul's Epistles.) The ch. con- 
tains the gilt shrine of St. Godehard, 
4 ft. long, date probably 1131 ; also a 
bronze font with bas-reliefs, 6 ft. high, 
including the cover, and an Irminsaule, 
a pillar of coloured alabaster, now sur- 
mounted by the cross, in the centre of 
the ch., looked upon as an idol of the 
Pagan Saxons. (See note, p. 375.) 
" The roodloft is a fine specimen of 
cinque-cento work. In a side altar, 

S 



386 R. 72 A. — HANOVER TO BREMEN. R. 73. — THE HARZ. Sect. V. 



S. aisle, are some curious enamel figures, 
Byzantine style. The cloister is small, 
but of great antiquity; a pretty small 
chapel stands in the centre." — F. S. A 
wild rose-tree growing on the wall of 
the crypt is said to be 800 years old. 

On the Dom Platz or close stands a 
brazen pillar, 14 ft. high, bearing, in 
bas-relief, 28 representations of the 
events of our Lord's Life and Passion, 
winding round it like a scroll, from the 
base upwards, after the manner of those 
of Trajan's column. 

There are several other curious ex- 
amples of ecclesiastical architecture of 
the middle ages in the Eomanesque 
style, and assuming the form of the 
Basilica. 

St. Godehard, founded in 1130, built 
on the same plan as the Dom, is much 
more curious as being in its original 
state. The style is plain, perfect. Eo- 
manesque ; but the capitals are very 
rich, in high relief, and the "N. door is 
much ornamented. St. Michael's, simi- 
lar to it, now a Narren-Anstalt and 
ruinous, but unaltered in other respects, 
has a fine cloister; the wall of the choir 
is ornamented with figures of apostles, 
&c, in relief. The Church on the Moritz- 
berg is very ancient. The Churches of 
St. Andreas and St. Lambert are also 
worth a visit. In the very rich Trea- 
sury are a silver model of the Tower of 
the Dom in 1367, the shrine of St. 
Oswald; a silver cross and chalice, a 
crucifix 20 in. high, covered with 
gold plates, set with precious stones, 
and ornamented with filigree, the work 
of Bishop Bernward (d. 1122), who was 
a great promoter of the art ; also 2 
candelabras of bronze, ornamented with 
bas-relief. The Rathhaus and Tempel- 
haus, the Square, Altmarktstrasse, and 
street behind, abound in curious speci- 
mens of old domestic architecture. 

The Georg"s Stift, a sort of lay Nun- 
nery, its Inmates not being boimd by 
vows, was founded 1829 by George IV., 
for 1 2 daughters of men who had served 
the state, eligible without reference to 
birth or religion. 

The picture gallery of Count Stol- 
berg, at Soder, 9 m. distant, may be 
visited from hence. It has few works 
of first-rate excellence. 



There is a good post-road from 
Hildesheim to Goslar, in the Harz. 
(Bte. 73.) 

For the railway from Hildesheim to 
Hanover, see Btes. 59 and 66. 

EOUTE 72 a. 

HANOVER TO BREMEN. RAILWAY. 

A railway connects Bremen with the 
Hanover and Minden railway at the 
Wunstorf station. The journey from 
Hanover to Bremen occupies from 3 to 
4 hours. The stations between Hanover 
and Bremen are as follows : — 

"Wunstorf Stat., see Ete. 66. 

Neustadt Stat. 

Nienburg Stat. Inn, Stadt London. 
The fortifications of this town were 
razed in 1807 by the French. 

Verden Stat., on the river Aller, the 
seat of a bishopric founded by Charle- 
magne. 

Achim Stat. 

Bremen Stat. (Ete. 69.) 



THE HARZ. 



EOUTE 73. 



GoTTINGEN TO CLAUS- 



ROSSTRAPPE, VALE OF THE BODE, AND 
ALEXISBAD. 

Preliminary Information . 

The Harz, the most northerly range 
of mountains in Germany, is about 
70 m. long, and 20 to 28 broad; it lies 
on the confines of Hanover, Brunswick, 
Anhalt, Bernburg, and Prussia ; and is 
divided among them, though the largest 
share belongs to Hanover. The Brocken, 
the loftiest summit, is lower than the 
highest British mountains, but the 
Harz chain rises alone, immediately 
cut of a level plain extending all the 
way to the Baltic, whose inhabitants, 
accustomed to an iminterrupted flat, 
exaggerate both the elevation and the 
beauties of the only range of hills that 
falls within their observation. Their 
scenery would appear tame, and their 
height inconsiderable, to one accus- 
tomed to the Alps, in comparison with 
which the Harz is a mere molehill. 
This statement is made with the view 
of counteracting the exaggerated praises 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 73. — THE HARZ. 



387 



of some of the guide-books ; indeed, it 
is hardly worth the while of the hunter 
after the picturesque, who has seen 
other parts of Europe, to go far out of 
his way to explore the Harz, unless he 
be, at the same time, a geologist, or 
interested in mining operations, as these 
branches of knowledge may be profit- 
ably studied here. 

The points usually visited are, the 
Brocken, on account of its view, which 
is rarely seen, owing to the mists which 
envelop it, and the constant rain at 
most seasons ; it is also famous for the 
superstitions connected with it, and for 
the phenomenon called spectre of the 
Brocken. The Rosstrappe and valley 
of the Bode are more interesting than 
the Brocken, from their fine and pecu- 
liar scenery. Between these two places 
are the curious caves of Baumanns and 
Bielshohle, interesting to geologists on 
account of the fossil bones found in 
them. 

The principal mines are at Clausthal, 
Andreasberg, and Goslar. 

For the Germans this district has a 
peculiar historical interest, as it is sup- 
posed to be the land of Herrmann (Ar- 
minius), the formidable antagonist of 
the Romans, and among its woods and 
rocks were the fastnesses of the indomi- 
table Cherusci. A carriage with 2 
horses costs 4 thalers the day — a guard 
is well paid with 1 thaler. 

Plan for an abbreviated Tour of the 
Harz. — " Start from Gbttingen in the 
morning by the diligence for Nordheim, 
and, posting to Andreasberg, reach that 
place by two o'clock. The stage from 
Harzburg (where the Harz properly 
commences) to Andreasberg is woody 
and picturesque. A short time being 
allowed for dinner, to visit the mouth 
of Samson's Mine and the stamping- 
works adjoining, abundance of time re- 
mains to pursue the agreeable walk 
which leads to the top of the Brocken, 
but for which, in part, a guide is desir- 
able, on account of the swampy nature 
of the ground. The traveller follows 
during this walk a water-course called 
the Rehbergergraben, which conveys a 
stream to the works of Andreasberg 
from a place called Oderteich, and 
passes through one of the most charac- 



teristic and picturesque valleys of the 
Harz. 

" After sleeping at the Brocken an 
excursion should be made down the 
valley of the Use to the point called 
Ilsenstein, and the traveller, then re- 
tracing his steps for some way, passes 
across the N.E. shoulders of the Broc- 
ken, under the Zetter-klippen to 
Schierke, where he may dine, and reach 
Elbingerode in the evening, and he 
might even visit the open iron-mines of 
Buchberg the same day. 

" Next day should be devoted to a 
visit to the Rosstrappe. The caves at 
Rubeland are scarce worth visiting, 
but thence a guide may be procured to 
point out the shortest woodland path to 
the Rosstrappe, 12 m. distant, which 
displays the greatest variety of charm- 
ing scenery. The walks round the 
Rosstrappe might occupy some hours, 
and the small new bathing establish- 
ment might afford accommodation ; or 
two hours' walk will take the traveller 
to Blankenburg, at the extremity of 
the Harz."— Pr. F. 



From Brunswick the Harz is now 
readily approached by the Harzburg 
Railway (Rte. 66), which terminates at 
Harzburg or Neustadt-Harzburg, as it 
is also called, 6 m. from Goslar. The 
Roads in the interior of the Harz are very 
bad indeed, especially in wet weather. 
You plough with the carriage wheels 
through the sand and mud rather than 
drive over the country. A good mac- 
adamised carriage road runs between 
Gbttingen and Goslar ; but between 
Goslar, "Wernigerode, and Halberstadt, 
it is only tolerable. From "Wernigerode 
to Elbingerode and Blankenburg, the 
same. From Halberstadt to Quedlin- 
burg and Alexisbad, good. A good 
macadamised road has been constructed 
from Clausthal to Andreasberg over the 
Bruchberg; it extends to Braunlege, 
Rothehutte, and Elbingerode. A good 
road leads from Harzburg to the Torf- 
hause, at the foot of the Brocken, and 
thence past the Oder Teich to Oderbruch 
and Kbnigskrug. From Weraigerodc 
to the Brocken there is a carriage road, 
practicable, however, only for light car- 
riages or horses beyond Ilsenburg. All 

S2 



388 



ROUTE 73. — THE HAKZ. CLAUSTHAL. 



Sect. 



r< 



deviations from these lines, to visit the 
Brocken, Rosstrappe, &c., mnst he made 
in carriages of the country, on horse- 
hack, or on foot. 

The following excursion may he 
easily made in 4 days, thus : — 

1st, from Gottingen to Goslar. 2nd, 
Goslar to the Brocken. 3rd, Brocken 
to Blankenhurg. 4th, to Rosstrappe 
and Alexishad. 

From Gottingen to Goslar is an easy 
clay's journey; the road is traversed 
twice a week hy a Fahrpost, or Post- 
waggon (§ 33), which goes in less than 
20 h. hetween Gottingen, Goslar, and 
Brunswick. We follow the high road 
from Gottingen to Hanover and Bruns- 
wick (Bte. 72) as far as 

2f Nordheim (Inn : Sonne, good) ; 
and there turn off hy a road which 
passes the village and old castle of 
Kattenburg, and threads the valleys of 
the Ruhme and S6se. Schnellpost daily 
to Brunswick — to Goslar daily in 9 h. 
The district abounds in gypsum, of 
which there are quarries at the road- 
side. 

2f Osterode. Inns ; Englischer Hof ; 
Krone; Kronprinz. A town of 5000 
inhab., on the Sose, supported hy 
various manufactures of wool, cotton, 
&c. It contains enormous corn ware- 
houses, from which, .by a provision of 
the government, the miners of the dis- 
trict and their families are supplied with 
corn at a fixed low price, even in times 
of scarcity, and when it rises in other 
districts. The Harz itself, from its 
elevation and barren soil, produces 
scarcely any grain. There are some 
curiotis old monuments in the Church. 
In front of the Raihhaus hang, at- 
tached to chains, a knife and a long 
bone: their origin or meaning is not 
satisfactorily explained, 

A few miles beyond this the ascent 
of the Harz begins ; the two stages 
hence to Goslar are so hilly, that the 
postmasters' regulations allow them to 
put on additional horses to carriages. 
The hills are clothed with dark pine- 
woods ; glimpses of the Brocken may 
be obtained on the right. The goitre 
is not uncommon among the inhabitants 
of Lerbach. 

\\ CIciusthal,—-Jnns : Goldene Krone ; 



Stadt London. This is the principal 
mining town (Bergstadt) of the Harz ; 
it has 9070 inhab., and the adjoining 
town of Zellerfeld 4176, chiefly miners 
or persons connected with the mines 
and smelting-houses. It lies in a bare 
bleak region, on the top and slopes of a 
hill, 1860 Eng. ft. above the sea, an ele- 
vation where corn ceases to ripen. There 
is a desolate look about it ; its houses 
are chiefly of wood, and even its prin- 
cipal church is of the same material. 
It was destroyed by fire, 1844. In 
order to visit the School of Mines, 
Mint, Mines, and Furnaces, strangers 
must apply to the chief of the mines, 
Berghauptman, for a permission (Er- 
laubnisschein) , which is readily granted, 
and which the landlord of the inn will 
procure. 

The School of Mines (Bergschule), in 
a corner-house of the market-place, is 
destined for the gratuitous education of 
young miners, and is supported by the 
King of Hanover. It contains an ex- 
tensive collection of models of mines, 
and of the machinery and buildings 
used in mining and smelting, very in- 
structive for those who wish to obtain 
some knowledge of the processes in use. 
Also a very good cabinet of the minerals 
found in the Harz. Collectors may 
purchase specimens here. 

The Mini (Munze). Here the pre- 
cious metals produced in the Hano- 
verian district of the Harz are assayed 
and coined to the extent of about 14,000 
dollars weeklv, and of 600 or 800 srold 
ducats (chiefly from the Bammelsberg 
near Goslar) annually. The miners' 
wages, to the amount of 5000 dollars, 
are usually paid at the Rathhaus every 
Satin-day, with silver dollars coined 
during the week. For 5 days out of 
the 7, a miner in full employment 
works 12 hours under grotmd. 

The Mines principally visited are the 
Caroline and the Dorothea, as they are 
the cleanliest and best ventilated. The 
entrance to them is about half an hom-'s 
walk from the town, at two great black- 
ened buildings, where the stranger, 
who has secured his permission from the 
Director of the mines, is provided with 
a miner's dress, a stiff felt cap, without 
a brim, to resist knocks on the head, a 



P: 



russia. 



ROUTE 73. — THE HARZ. CLAUSTHAL. 



389 



leather apron tied on behind, and a 
coarse grey jacket and trowsers ; also 
with guides to attend him, bearing 
lights. The descent is by a series of 
ladders; it is dark, damp, and fa- 
tiguing, but not dangerous : the miner 
clings fast by his hands, and never 
minds his feet ; he holds on by the steps, 
and not by the side of the ladder, and 
this ensures safety. Arrived at the 
bottom, the visitor sees little except 
wheels and ropes, by which the ore is 
raised, and water pumped out : he hears 
a rattling of machinery, and here and 
there finds a solitary miner, plying the 
pickaxe and chisel, to extract the ore. 
A general idea of the process of mining 
is best learned from models above- 
ground. In the mine called Silberse- 
gen is a perpendicular shaft, 176 fathoms 
deep, with a pump moved by a water 
column, which draws up the water 
688 ft. A subterranean canal, 2339 
fathoms long, has been constructed to 
convey the ore from some of the shafts, 
The mine called Herzog Georg Wilhelm 
contains one of the deepest shafts in the 
Harz ; it reaches down 2000 ft., which 
is below the level of the Baltic. The 
mines of Clausthal are drained by a 
subterranean tunnel, cut through the 
mountain, 6 m. long, which empties 
itself at the small town of Grand ; it is 
called Georgstollen. 

As the machinery for pumping water 
out of the mines, as well as for the 
forges, tilt-hammers, and stamping- 
mills, is all put in motion by water- 
power, the utmost attention is paid to 
collecting an adequate supply for this 
purpose. Every little rill in the neigh- 
bourhood of Clausthal is dammed up 
and formed into a reservoir. There 
are more than 50 of these ponds to 
supply the works about Clausthal and 
Zellerfeld alone ; they set in motion 
170 water-wheels, and the water is con- 
ducted from the reservoirs to the mills 
in canals or aqueducts, the entire length 
of which is not less than 125 Eng. m. 

About 2 m. "W. of Clausthal is the 
Silver Smelting Foundry, called the 
Frankenscharner Silberhiitte ; the neigh- 
bourhood of it is literally a blasted 
waste, owing to the destructive effects 
produced upon vegetation by the vapours 



of lead and arsenic which issue from the 
smelting-houses. The stream puts in 
motion 13 stamping-mills, where the 
ore is crushed and washed in readiness 
for the furnace. 

There is a cross-road from Clausthal 
to Goslar, practicable for a light car- 
riage with 4 horses, and far more in- 
teresting than the post-road, through 
the Vale of the Oker, one of the most 
romantic in the Harz. The finest 
points are the Studenten and Fichten- 
klippe. It passes by the smelting- 
houses of Schulenberg, and through 
the village of Oker, 6 or 7 m. lower 
down, and only 3 m. from Goslar ; from 
Oker to Goslar the road is good. 

The post-road passes near some 
enormous Slate Quarries on approach- 
ing Goslar. The rock has been exca- 
vated into a cleft of tremendous depth, 
in order to drain off the water. The 
mountain on the rt. is the Rammelsberg. 
Out of its bowels precious and useful 
metals, gold, silver, copper, lead, zinc, 
have been dug for nearly 800 years. 
So many different minerals are rarely 
found within so small a space. The 
mountain is penetrated through and 
through in all directions by miners' 
shafts and galleries, and its riches are 
not yet exhausted. The produce at 
present, however, barely repays the 
outlay ; but the works are continued 
by the Hanoverian government not- 
withstanding, on account of the large 
population depending entirely on the 
mines for subsistence. The ducats 
coined from the gold derived from this 
mine have the inscription " Ex auro 
Hercynise." The ore is not extracted 
by blasting, but by the following un- 
usual process. Large stacks of wood 
are raised within the mine, against the 
surface of the rock, where it abounds 
with metal. They are then set on fire, 
and allowed to burn for 48 hours to- 
gether, during which time all the open- 
ings and passages of the mine are 
closed, and no one enters it. At the 
end of that time the rock is found 
cracked aud shattered by the heat to 
the depth of several feet, so that the 
ore is easily extracted from it. 

2 Goslar. Inns : Kaiserworth, a 
curious old house in the market-place 



390 



ROUTE 73. — THE HAEZ. GOSLAE. 



Sect. V. 



(15th. cent.), once the hall of a Guild, 
or Corporation ; Bomischer Kaiser. — 
Goslar is 900 Eng. ft. above the sea. 
It was once a free Imperial city of 
great importance and antiquity, as it 
certainly existed in the 10th cent., and 
was the residence of the Emperors of 
Germany, and seat of the Diet. It is 
named from the Gose, a small stream 
flowing through it. It is now a dull 
and deserted-looking provincial town, 
with 6800 inhah., and belongs to 
Hanover. It is still interesting, how- 
ever, for its history, and for the pecu- 
liarly picturesque air of antiquity dis- 
played in its buildings ; among which 
the Bathhaus (15th cent.), containing 
some antiquities, and Armenhaus may 
be specified. 

The chapel, now used as a Museum, 
was the porch (Vorhalle) of the old 
cathedral (date 1050), pulled down 
1820, of early Eomanesque architec- 
ture ; on the front are some colossal 
statues. It contains the Altar o/Krodo, 
a curious antique monument of metal, 
believed at one time to be an altar of 
the early Saxons, but more probably 
a shrine or relic chest, of early Italian 
workmanship. The sides and bottom 
of bronze gilt seem alone to be original ; 
the filigrees and marble top are of 
Charlemagne's time, as perhaps are the 
bronze frame and kneeling figures, like 
some of those which support the metal 
fonts in German churches. It was car- 
ried off to Paris by the French. In 
the same place are deposited some 
ancient paintings of no great value, 
and a Crucifixion carved in wood : the 
windows contain painted glass of the 
14th cent. 

A fragment of the Kaiserpfalz — 
Emperor's Palace — 1000 years old, 
stands near this chapel ; it resembles 
the gatehouse at Gelnhausen, but is 
now converted into a corn warehouse. 

The Ch. in the Market-place is a good 
plain Romanesque edifice, founded by 
the Emp. Henry II. The old Kloster 
Kirclie is a perfect and plain Eoman- 
esque church, with pointed vaulting, 
windows 2 and 2 ; curious open pro- 
jections of vaulting pillars ; 2 have a 
ring or snake inserted loose. Apsis 
curiously ornamented outside. Brass 



font and candelabra (? date). Tomb 
of the "Wittgensteins, 1400 . 

The Zwinger, one of the old towers 
which formed the outer defences of the 
city, is now fitted up as a place of en- 
tertainment, in which beer called Gose 
is sold ; its walls are 21 ft. thick. The 
tower is called the Eichersthurm. 

Marshal Saxe, son of the celebrated 
Aurora von Konigsmark, mistress of 
Augustus of Saxony, was born at 
Goslar, Oct. 28, 1696. His birth 
is registered here as " Meurice, son of 
a great lady, born in "Winkel's house," 
without the name of father or mother. 

In order to visit the Mines in the Bam- 
melsberg (p. 389) a permission must be 
obtained from the Chief of the mines 
in the town. The entrance to them 
is about a mile out of the town ; inti- 
mation of the visit shoidd be sent the 
evening before. They may be explored 
without the necessity of descending 
any ladders. The best time to see 
them is between 4 and 8 on Saturday 
morning, when the fires are first lighted. 
After that time the mine is closed, and 
no one enters till Monday morning. 
The guides receive 15 Sgr. or 10 Sgr. 
each from a party. 

Outside of the Broad Gate of Gos- 
lar is a singular isolated rock of sand- 
stone, called the Claus, which has been 
excavated into a comfortable dwelling ; 
it was once a hermitage and chapel. 

The distance from Goslar to the top 
of the Brocken is about 28 m. In 
going thither we pass Oker at the 
mouth of the valley of the Oker, one of 
the most beautiful in the Harz, and 
Neustadt-Harzburgh. The valley of the 
Eadau, which opens out near Xeustadt, 
displays a remarkable geological phe- 
nomenon. In a quarry on the rt. of 
the valley, about 200 paces above the 
junction of the old and new roads in 
the Eadau valley, masses of a quartzy 
rock, resembling grauwacke, and them- 
selves containing traces of organic re- 
mains, have been found enclosed in the 
granite. 

At Harzburg a very copious brine- 
spring issues out of the Keuper sand- 
stone and muschelkalk limestone. 

Bailroad from Harzburg to Bruns- 
wick. (Ete. 66.) 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 73. — THE HARZ. THE BROCKEN. 



391 



Near Eckerkrug we pass out of 
Hanover into Prussia, to 

Ilsenburg, about 14 m. from Gos- 
lar. — Inn, Bothe Forelle (Red Trout, 
for which it is famed). This is a small 
village 890 Eng. ft. above the sea-level at 
the mouth of the pretty valley of the Use, 
up which runs the road to the Brocken. 
A carriage may be sent round to await 
the traveller at Schierke, while the 
ascent is made in a light car or on mule- 
back. A carriage holding 4 may be 
hired from the landlord of the Forelle for 
8 dollars, or 10 if it be kept on the sum- 
mit all night. A mule costs 2 dollars. 

Before setting out for the Brocken 
it is worth while to mount to the top 
of the Ilsenstein, a projecting precipice 
of bare rock, towering above the 
woods on the 1. side of the valley, 
surmounted by an iron Cross, erected 
as a monument of the War. Com- 
modious winding paths lead up to the 
summit, where a grand prospect over 
some very wild scenery rewards the 
climbers. 

The distance from Ilsenburg to the 
Brocken, in a direct line, is not more 
than 6 m. The carriage road is more 
.than twice as much ; it passes up the 
course of the Use, through dark woods 
occupied by charcoal burners, and 
amidst masses of rock. The whole way 
is a series of wild sylvan scenes, recalling 
to mind the remarkable description of 
the ascent to it in Gothe's Faust. 

The Brockenhaus is the name of the 
Inn on the platform of bare rock which 
forms the summit of the Brocken : the 
accommodations and provisions are 
very fair, considering that every ar- 
ticle is carried up on the back of mules 
a distance of 12 or 15 m. The 
charges are settled by tariff, according 
to the Prussian police regulations. The 
walls are thick, the windows small, 
and the house is heated by stoves all 
the year round. The host is very 
obliging and highly intelligent : he lives 
here constantly. Hard by the inn 
rises a prospect tower or Belvedere of 
massy timber, 50 ft. high. 

The Brocken, or Blocksberg (Mons 
Bructerus), the highest of the Harz 
Mountains, is 3700 Eng. ft. above the 
level of the sea. In a cleft called 



Schneeloch, about a mile from the inn, 
snow lies almost all the year round. 
The summit and framework, as it were, 
of the mountain, is granite, round 
which the other rocks are wrapped, 
enveloping it like a mantle. It has 
long enjoyed the reputation of being 
haunted. The district may indeed be 
considered the cradle of innumerable 
superstitions, some of them even now 
not extinct, of Gnomes and Cobolds, 
witches, and the headless horseman. 
Several odd-shaped masses of granite 
around the summit of the Brocken are 
named after the witches ; for example, 
the Devil's Pulpit, the Witches' Altar, 
and, not far off, the Witches' Lake and 
Wash-hand Basin. According to the 
well-known legend, the witches hold 
their sabbath on this spot once a year, 
upon the eve of May-day, called in 
Germany Walpurgisnacht, from the 
name of a saint who converted the 
Saxons to Christianity. At this annual 
conventicle (such is the common belief) 
all the evil spirits in the world assemble 
to offer allegiance to their unmention- 
able master, celebrating the festival 
with unholy orgies. Mortals who are 
bold enough to venture up during this 
night have the privilege of beholding 
their own ghosts on the top of the 
Brocken, with a billet pinned to their 
backs bearing the name of those who 
have wished them there. 

The curious optical phenomenon 
called the Spectre of the Brocken, occa- 
sionally seen from this spot, may have 
contributed to strengthen the belief of 
its being haunted. It is not very rare, 
as it occurs usually 8 or 9 times a year, 
and is not confined to any particular 
season. It appears at sunset or sun- 
rise, whenever the mists happen to 
ascend perpendicularly out of the valley 
on the side opposite to the sun, and 
leave the mountain top itself free from 
vapour. The shadow of the mountain 
is reflected against the perpendicular 
face of the rising vapour, as it were 
against a wall, of gigantic dimensions. 
The inn then becomes a palace in size, 
and the human beings on the summit 
appear giants. The size of the figures 
increases or diminishes as the fog is 
driven farther from or nearer to the 



392 



ROUTE 73. THE HARZ. BLANKENBURG. 



Sect. V. 



Brocken top by the wind. " If the fog- 
is very dry, you see not only yourself 
but your neighbour; if very damp, 
only yourself, surrounded by a rain- 
bow-coloured glory, which becomes 
more lustrous and beautiful the damper 
and thicker the fog is, and the nearer 
it approaches." — Howitt. 

The Panorama from the top of the 
BrOcken is fine, and very extensive, 
when it can be seen, though at the best 
inferior to that from the Winterberg 
in the Saxon Switzerland. The ho- 
rizon is rarely quite free of cloud, 
and nine times out of ten no good 
view is to be had at sunrise. It is 
therefore prudent for those who make 
up their minds to pass a night on the 
Brocken, in order to see the view, to 
reach the summit before sunset, so 
that, if the weather be clear, they 
may have two chances of seeing some- 
thing. 

There is a char-road from the Brock- 
en to Wernigerode (Inns: "Weisser 
Hirsch ; Deutsches Haus ; Goldener 
Lowe), an antiquated town of 6000 
inhab., belonging to Count Stolberg, 
which suffered from fire in the spring 
of 1847. The EathskeUer (about 1400) 
is picturesque and curious. Thence to 
Elbingerode is a macadamised road. 
The footpath descends directly to El- 
bingerode, a distance of about 14 m. 
It passes through the desolate region of 
Elend (Misery) by Schierke, a village 
with 5000 inhab., at an elevation of 
1860 Eng. ft. above the sea. The rocks 
around it assume singular shapes, and 
receive the strangest names, — as Hell, 
the Firestone, the Snorters (Schnarcher). 
Many of these are mentioned or alluded 
to in Gothe's Faust, and it was up this 
road that Mephistophiles conducted his 
hero to the top of the Brocken. By 
broad daylight, however, and in the 
sunshine, the landscape of which they 
form part has a merely picturesque 
character, free from all horrors. 

Elbingerode. — Inn, Blauer Engel ; 
Bischbieters. Here horses and car- 
riages may be hired for the ascent of 
the Brocken. This is a Hanoverian 
town of 2500 inhab. (1580 Eng. ft. 
above the sea), " large, naked, and 
bleak-looking." In the vicinity are 



numerous iron-mines, or rather quarries, 
for the ore occurs in such large masses 
that it is quarried out in the open air. 
It is smelted in the neighbourhood. — 
N.B. The termination rode, so often 
occurring in the names of places in the 
Harz, signifies a spot where roots of 
trees have been grubbed up. 

About 2Jj m. below Elbingerode, 
in the gorge of the Bode, close to the 
cheerful village of Bubeland (Lm, 
Goldener Lowe), are the two Caves 
of Baumannshohle in the cliffs on the 
1. bank, and Bielshohle in the preci- 
pice on the rt. bank opposite. The 
Baumannshohle has the largest cham- 
bers, and is interesting to the geologist, 
because bones of the Great Cave Bear, 
now extinct, have been found in it. 
The Bielshohle has the finest and 
whitest stalactites. They are both 
under the charge of guides residing in 
the village, who receive about 4 gro- 
schen from each person for showing 
them, with something extra for addi- 
tional lights. They are scarcely worth 
visiting. A band of local musicians 
is in readiness to awaken the echoes of 
the Baumannshohle. 

From Bubeland (fine limestone rocks 
in the Bodethal), through a large oak 
forest in the Schleifergrund, with pic- 
turesque distant views of the plain, on 
approaching 

Blankenburg (6 m.) — Inns : Krone ; 
"Weisser Adler. A town of 3000 inhab., 
belorging to the Duke of Brunswick, 
who has a Palace here. It is an 
ungainly building, but the situation 
and view from it are beautiful. The 
best pictures have been removed, but 
there still remains one of the White 
Lady, who haunts this palace as well 
as that of Berlin, and other royal 
residences in Germany; and two por- 
traits, painted by the father of Frederick 
the Great with the point of his finger ! 
one of our King William IV. in his 
midshipman's dress, and a small col- 
lection of old glass and armour. 

Louis XVIII. lived here 1796-98, 
under the name of Comte de Lille, in 
perpetual fear of assassination by the 
French republicans. 

It takes f of an h. to walk up to 
the ruined castle of Bernstein, or Be- 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 73. — THE HARZ. ROSSTRAPPE. 



393 



genstein, built by the Empr. Henry the 
Fowler 919. It has many chambers 
excavated in the solid rock. The view 
hence is admired. There is a refresh- 
ment house, with a dining-room, at 
Reinstein. 

Blankenburg is but 6 m. distant 
from the Prussian village of Thale, 
at the foot of the Rosstrappe. The 
Inn at Thale (Worfels) is not very 
good ; there is a better one near the 
iron-works (Blechhutte), on the oppo- 
site side of the Bode. This river is 
here hemmed in between the Ross- 
trappe on its 1. bank and the Devil's 
Tanzplatz (ball-room) on the rt. ; 
two lofty mountains, whose precipitous 
granite cliffs rising on each side give a 
character of the utmost grandeur to 
this gorge or ravine. A steep foot- 
path leads from the river-side to the 
top of the Rosstrappe. A carriage 
may ascend half -way, by a circuitous 
road, as far as the Bude (Boothie, 
Scotch), a station where refreshments 
may be had, including a peculiar liquor 
called Birken "Wasser (birch- water), 
extracted from the birch. 

The Rosstrappe is a vast precipice 
of granite, isolated on 3 sides, rising 
1380 Eng. ft. above the sea, and 540 
above the Bode, and projecting over 
the valley like a bastion. Its sum- 
mit is a platform of rock, 5 or 6 ft. 
square. Its name comes from a mark 
in the rock bearing a distant resem- 
blance to a horse's hoof, and according 
to the traditional story was caused by 
a Princess Brunhilde, who, being pur- 
sued by a giant, leaped her horse 
(which had previously been endowed 
with supernatural strength) across the 
gorge to the opposite cliff, where the 
charger, as he alighted, left the dint of 
his footmark. The view into the depths 
below is very grand. A different path 
leads in zigzags down to the river-side. 
The defile here displays a scene of the 
most romantic and gloomy character. 
It is perhaps the wildest and most 
interesting spot in the whole district 
of the Harz. The granite needles 
remind one of the Alps on a small 
scale ; the profusion of beautiful wood 
in the valley of the Bode adds to its 
attractions ; one fine beech called Ko- 



nigsbuchc is well worth notice. After 
threading the gorge, by the water-side, 
back to the Blechhutte, some persons 
ascend by a steep path to the Tanzplatz 
(1590 Eng. ft. above the sea-level), 
on the rt. side of the river, from 
which there is a view not inferior to 
that from the Rosstrappe, whose gi- 
gantic precipices appear to great ad- 
vantage from hence, " challenged from 
the other side of the narrow rift by 
many no less wild and lofty crags." 
At the extremity of the gorge lies the 
Bode Kessel, or caldron, whence the 
river boils up, its sides worn and 
smoothed by the action of the torrent 
and stones ; a very striking scene, The 
walk to the Rosstrappe from Thale and 
back to Blechhutte takes up 3 or 4 h. 
In the plain, at a short distance from the 
foot of the Harz, is the Teufelsmauer, a 
gigantic natural wall of sandstone lying 
between Blankenburg and Quedlinburg. 

A cross road from Blechhutte leads 
to Gernrode, 5 m. off, on the high 
road from Nordhausen to Magdeburg 
(p. 394). About 9 m. S. of Gern- 
rode, and about 2 to the "W. of the 
post-station of Harzgerode, lies the 
watering-place of Alexisbad, which may 
be adopted as night- quarters, if the 
traveller be going S, A good road 
leads from Gernrode to Ballenstadt(27in, 
Stadt Bernburg, good). The Ducal 
Schloss, on a height, contains a fine 
collection of pictures. 

If the traveller be bent on making the 
entire tour of the Harz, he may proceed 
from Blankenburg, by Elbingerode, to 
Andreasberg, at the S. foot of the 
Brocken, a town of 4100 inhab., at an 
elevation of 1900 Eng. ft. above the sea, 
and interesting only to miners and 
mineralogists. [Inns : Schutzenhaus 
and Rathskeller,) The silver-mines are 
situated in rocks of clay-slate. The shaft 
of the Samson mine is 2333 ft, deep ; the 
tilt-hammers, forges, and water-engines 
of Andreasberg are all put in motion 
by the supply of water from the great 
reservoir under the Brocken, called 
Oderteich. The dam which retains 
the water is a construction of granite 
masonry. The distance hence to 
Clausthal is 16 m. 

From Ballenstadt a very bad road, 
s3 



394 



ROUTE 74.— NORDHAUSEN TO MAGDEBURG. 



Sect. V. 



but through charming scenery, com- 
parable with that of the Troshachs, 
leads to Alexisbad. "A pedestrian 
should go by the Selkethal, to see the 
fine old Castle of Falkenstein. The 
footpath shortens the distance ; but, by 
going round to Meisdorf, a road prac- 
ticable for light carriages may be fol- 
lowed up the Selkethal." — 67. 

Alexisabad. — Inns : Das Logirhaus, 
containing 60 apartments ; Das Trai- 
teurhaus, with about 30. Alexisbad 
consists of a small group of buildings 
for the accommodation of visitors, 
erected in the romantic valley of the 
Selke (at an elevation of 1166 Eng. ft. 
above the sea), by the Duke of Anhalt- 
Bernburg, after whom it is named. He 
has a small hunting-box, like a Swiss 
cottage. Wooded hills rise on each side, 
and completely hem in the little cluster 
of houses ; and nice paths are cut through 
the woods in all directions. Besides the 
■ buildings enumerated above, there is a 
bath-house, and a saloon, in which the 
table-d'hote takes place every day ; also 
used as a ball-room, with adjoining 
apartments for gambling, &c. 

Two mineral springs supply water 
for the baths, and for drinking. The 
water is a very strong chalybeate. 
Most of the resources of a German 
watering-place (§ 38) are to be found 
here : but Alexisbad owes its great at- 
traction to its agreeable situation, and 
the excursions in its neighbourhood, to 
Magdesprung, Magdetrappe, KLoster- 
muhle ; the Victorshohe, &c. See the 
following Boute. 

BOUTE 74. 

THE HARZ — NORDHAUSEN TO 
MAGDEBURG. 

14f Pruss. m. = 69 Eng. m. 
Schnellpost twice a- week. Personen- 
post daily. This road nearly forms 
the E. boundary line of the Harz. 

Nordhausen is in Bte. 67 (p. 369). 

2f Stolberg. — Inns : TVeisses Boss ; 
Deutsches Haus. A town of 2000 
inhab. belonging to the Count Stol- 
berg, a mediatised prince, whose terri- 
tory is now included in that of Prussia. 
His Castle, on the height above, con- 
tains a library, a small armoury, and 



the statue of an idol (Krodo), dug up 
under the walls. Thomas Miinzer, 
the fanatic leader of the rebel peasants 
in the 16th cent., was born here, in 
a house still standing near the market- 
place. From the Josephshohe, 2 m. 
from Stolberg, in a most picturesque 
situation, surmounted by a Belvedere 
and Inn, a fine view is obtained. 

2 ~ Harzgerode. — Inns : TVeisses 
Boss ; Drei Thurme. A town of 2400 
inhab., belonging to the Prince of An- 
halt-Bernburg. About 2 m. to the 
west of Harzgerode lies the watering- 
place of Alexisbad (p. 394), where a 
traveller, not pressed for time, may 
spend one or two days very agreeably, 
in exploring the beauties of its neigh- 
bourhood. 

About 3 m. N. of Harzgerode our 
road is joined on the 1. by that from 
Alexisbad to Magdeburg, and crosses 
the river Selke at the iron-works of 
Magdesprung, consisting of a number 
of iron forges, furnaces, and miners' 
houses scattered along the banks of the 
river, over a distance of nearly 2 m. 
The situation is very romantic, and 
the distance from hence to Alexisbad 
is about 3 m. On a neighbouring 
height a tall obelisk of cast iron has 
been erected as a monument to a Duke 
of Anhalt. The hill caUed Magde- 
trappe (Maid's foot-print) receives its 
name from the legend of a giantess who 
once haunted this district, and, in one 
of her wanderings, leapt over the valley 
from the opposite hill, called Bamberg, 
leaving the marks of her feet upon the 
spot where she alighted. In proof of 
this story, they are still visible in the 
rock ! The summit commands a fine 
view. Leaving Magdesprung, the 
road passes, on the 1., the ruined 
castle of Heinrichbrug, built by the 
Counts of Stolberg. The Schlosskirche 
here probably dates from 960. 

Gernrode. — See the Church, a very 
curious and ancient Bonianesque one, 
with Choirs at both E. and TV", ends, 
and crypts ; that under the E. choir 
dates from 960. A curious side chapel 
is covered with bas-reliefs of the 12th 
cent. About 5 m. from this place 
is the Bosstrappe, one of the most 
interesting points in the Harz (p. 393). 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 74. — QUEDLINBURG. HALBERSTADT. 



395 



A detour from the road of 2 days 
would suffice to enable a traveller to 
see it and to ascend the Brocken. 
The latter part of the excursion is 
only advisable when the weather is 
settled. 

2£ Quedliriburg (Inns : Deutsches 
Haus ; Schwarzer Bar), a dull coun- 
try town, formerly belonging to Saxony, 
now Prussian, of 13,500 inhab., on the 
Bode. It was originally a free Impe- 
rial city of much consequence. Many 
German Emperors of the Saxon line 
resided here in the 13th cent., and 
several councils of the church were 
held in the town. It is still surrounded 
by turreted walls. 

The Castle, on an eminence above 
the town, was the residence of the 
Abbesses of Quedlinburg, who were 
Princesses of the Empire, independent 
of all spiritual sovereigns save the 
Pope, having a vote in the Diet and a 
seat on the bench of Rhenish bishops. 
They "were generally members of royal 
or noble families. The town itself, 
many convents and nunneries, and very 
extensive domains belonged to the Ab- 
bess, and she numbered among her 
vassals many nobles of high rank. At 
the Reformation the Abbesses adopted 
the Lutheran faith, lost their feudal 
sovereignty and the greatest part of 
their estates, while the number of nuns 
was reduced to 5. The right of pre- 
sentation belonged to the King of 
Prussia down to 1802, when the con- 
vent was sequestrated. It is now 
falling to decay, stripped of its splen- 
dour, and in part converted into a 
school. 

The Schlosskirche is a very curious 
building of the 10th or 11th cent. 
The arabesques on the outside are 
considered the oldest works of sculpture 
in N. Germany. The once beautiful 
Aurora Maria, Countess of Konigs- 
mark, who was prioress of the nunnery, 
although mistress of Augustus the 
Strong, King of Saxony, and mother of 
Marshal Saxe, is buried in a vault 
beneath. The sexton does not scruple 
to open her coffin at the demand of the 
curious, and to display a body now 
reduced to the condition of a brown 
mummy. The Emp. Henry the Fow- 



ler, his Empress Matilda, the founder 
of the nunnery, and many abbesses of 
the monastery, were also buried here, 
in front of the high altar. In the Sa- 
cristy are 2 reliquaries, ornamented 
with rude ivory carvings of the 9th or 
10th cent., bequests of Henry I. ; the 
beard-comb of Henry the Fowler. 
Here also are some curious tapestries 
of the 12th cent. The crypt of St. 
Wiperti is probably of the 10th cent. 

The poet Klopstock was born in a . 
small house at the foot of the castle 
hill, in the Schlossplatz, recognisable 
by the 2 pillars which support its 
porch. A monument has been erected 
to him in the garden called Bruhl. In 
the Rathhaus is preserved, among other 
musty curiosities, the oaken cage in 
which the citizens of Quedlinburg 
imprisoned a Count of Reinstein in 
1 336, for nearly 2 years, on account of 
numerous acts of tyranny and oppres- 
sive exactions which he had committed 
against them. Not satisfied with this 
barbarous punishment, they were on 
the point of executing him, when the 
emperor demanded that his life should 
be spared, on conditions of his paying a 
fine of 3000 dollars, and adding seven 
new towers to the town walls. 

2 Halberstadt. — Inns : Eisenbahn- 
Gasthof ; Hotel von Preussen, good ; 
Prinz Eugen. A very ancient city of 
18,000 inhab., on an arm of the Hol- 
zemme. The Cathedral, Dom, is a very 
remarkable Gothic edifice, chiefly in 
the pointed style, erected between 1235 
and 1491, except the lower part of the 
west front, which is older. The bi- 
shop's thi-one, rich in pointed orna- 
ments, a fine window over the altar, a 
roodloffc (1510), the monument of the 
Margrave Frederick of Brandenburg, 
the carved work of the Bishop's Throne, 
and an altar-piece by John Raphon, of 
Eimbeck, all deserve notice. The 
Church of Unsere Liebe Frau (our 
Lady), in the Byzantine style (date 
1005-1147), recently restored, has a 
series of bas-reliefs of that age, and 
some wall paintings which are curious. 
Mansion-house, and a Theatre. There 
are some curiously ornamented old 
timber-framed houses here on the 
Markt. Rathskeller and Schichhof. Near 



396 



HOUTE 74 A. — THE WESEE. CASSEL TO BREMEN. Sect. V. 



the Eathhaus is a Rolandsdule (see note, 
p. 375), and opposite is the Bischofshof, 
now turned to other uses. The hest view 
of the town is from the Spiegelsberg, 590 
Eng. ft. above the sea. An excursion 
may be conveniently made from hence to 
the Rosstrappe, in the Harz. (Rte. 73.) 

Railway from Halberstadt to Mag- 
deburg, 7f Germ. m. 

1 ~ Nienhagen Stat. 

\\ Gr. Oschersleben Stat. 

For the rest of the line to 

Magdeburg, see Rte. 66. 

ROUTE 74 a. 

DESCENT OF THE WESER. CASSEL TO 
BREMEN. 

Steamers of the "Weser Steam Na- 
vigation Co. have since 1844 navi- 
gated the Weser between Hannoverisch 
Munden and Bremen. The naviga- 
tion is sometimes interrupted in sum- 
mer by want of water. The distance 
by the river from Munden to Hameln 
is 1 8 Germ. m. ; from thence to Min- 
den 9 Germ. m. Steamers start daily, 
descending in 2 days, ascending in 3, 
halting for the night at Minden and 
Hameln. Fare, 6 thalers"; 2nd class, 
3 thl. The scenery down to Minden 
is pleasing, with many points of inte- 
rest ; below Minden the banks of the 
river are flat and uninteresting. The 
"Weser has a course of 62 Germ. m. = 
285 Eng. m., with a fall of 397 ft. to 
the North Sea. 

Cassel to Munden 2| Germ. m. by 
the post-road. (See Rte. 72.) 

Descending the Weser from Munden 
(Rte, 72), by steamer, 

rt. The wooded hills of the Bram- 
wald, 

1. Reinhardswald, 

1. Veckerhagen. 1800 inhab. Here 
was formerly a castle of the Electors 
of Hesse, now Chemical Works : in 
the neighbourhood are iron-mines. 
The Weser makes a great bend round 
the ruins of the castle of Bamburg, rt., 
which remain long in sight. 

rt. Bursfelde. Here was a Benedic- 
tine abbey of the 13th cent., now an 
estate of the King of Hanover. The 
church is a well-preserved monument 
of Byzantine architecture. 



rt. Lippoldsberge, 650 Inhab., and 

rt. Bodenfelde, 2 picturesque vil- 
lages. The banks of the river are here 
covered with a thick forest, part of the 
romantic scenery of the Solnick : the 
river forces its way among high rocks. 

1. Karlshafen (Inn ; Schwan), 1600 
inhab., at the junction of the Diemel 
with the Weser, in a picturesque situa- 
tion, with cliffs of red sandstone. A 
railway was opened 1849, between 
Cassel and this town, which is in- 
tended to form a great commercial 
place. There are large magazines built 
by the Landgrave Charles in 1700 ; 
and the French Huguenots were hos- 
pitably received by him in 1699 and 
settled here. (Rte. 71.) In the neigh- 
bourhood, higher up the river, are two 
settlements, named by them in the 
style of the Puritans, Gottestreue, and 
Gewissenruhe (Truth of God and Rest 
of Conscience). The inhabitants still 
preserve their French features. 

A little below Karlshafen the Prus- 
sian territory begins on the 1. bank. 

1. HersteHe, a stronghold of Charle- 
magne, where, in 797, during his 
campaign against the Saxons, he re- 
ceived the ambassadors of the Avars, 
and of Arragon and Castile. It is 
named after the cradle of his family, 
— Heristal, on the Meuse. No trace of 
the original castle remains. In its 
place a modern Gothic chateau lifts its 
roof above picturesque groups of trees. 
Below is the village of the same 
name, 

1. Beverungen, a Prussian village 
marked by an old prison tower. 

rt. Lauenforde, a Hanoverian vil- 
lage. 

1. Blankenau. Formerly a fortress 
of the Abbot of Corvey, built in the 
13th cent., afterwards a stronghold of 
the robber knight of Falkenberg. Now 
a Prussian pubbx ofiice. Opposite is 
the village of 

rt. Meinbrexen, in Brunswick. 

1. Godolheini, at the foot of the 
Brunsberg : here are mineral springs. 
Opposite is 

rt. Fiirstenberg. A castle of the 
Duke of Brunswick, upon a spur of 
the Soiling, Since 1753 it has been a 
china manufactory. 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 74 A. — CASSEL TO BREMEN. 



397 



rt. Bofzen. 

1. Iloxter. Rte. 68, p. 372. 

1. Corvey. This vast monastic edi- 
fice, with its numerous courts, and sur- 
mounted by the twin spires of its abbey 
ch., once the most eminent Benedic- 
tine convent in Germany, is now the 
risidence of the Prince of Hohenlohe- 
Schillingsfurst, Prince of Corvey. See 
Rte. 68, p. 372. 

rt. Holzminden, a town of Bruns- 
wick at the N. extremity of an offset 
of the Sollinger-wald hills. It has con- 
siderable iron and steel works, mills for 
cutting paving-stones, an article of 
export to Bremen, and a celebrated 
school or gymnasium dedicated "Deo 
et litteris." Near the town are the 
ruins of Eberstein, a famous stronghold 
of the Counts of that name. 

1. Heinsen. Below this the Weser 
makes a great bend to 

1. Polle : here are the ruins of a 
castle destroyed in the 30 Years' War. 
It had been the principal castle of the 
counts of Eberstein. 

rt. Dolme. A singular cliff goes by 
the name of the Pastor von Dolme. 
Opposite, 1., in a narrow gorge, a small 
stream descends and turns the wheel 
of the Teufelsmiihle (the Devil's mill), 
mentioned in legends of the 13th 
cent. 

rt. Bodenwerder. A small Hano- 
verian town on an island with a boat 
bridge. The red sandstone displays 
itself in a peculiar manner on the rt. 
bank. 

1. Kemnade, with a flying bridge. It 
was the site of a nunnery founded in 
1025. The old ch. contains the tombs 
of many noble families. 

1. Hehlen. The stately chateau, 
surmounted by 4 towers, was built in 
1560, by Count Schulenburg, in whose 
family it still remains. One of this 
family, as Field Marshal in the ser- 
vice of the republic of Venice, bravely 
defended Corfu in 1716 against the 
Turks. Turkish arms and horse-tail 
standards, his trophies, are still pre- 
served here. 

rt. Hagenossen, with a mansion, 
formerly belonging to the Counts of 
Eberstein. 

1. Grohnde has a monument of a 



battle between Duke Wm. of Bruns- 
wick and the Bp. of Hildesheim 9. 
April, 1422. 

1. Ohr has a new church inscribed 
" Der Geist ist frei, und ohne Zwang 
der Glaube." From the top of the 
Ohrberg, above the village, there is a 
beautiful view towards the high land 
about Pyrmont. 

rt. Hameln. Rte 71. Coaches hence 
to Pyrmont (3 Germ, m.), and to 
Hanover. 

rt. Fischbeck, in a fertile country : 
here is an ancient church and nunnery, 
founded 954, now a school for young- 
ladies of noble families. 

rt. Oldendorf. Inns : Stadt Cassel, 
Rathskeller. 1400 inhab., a town of 
the Elector of Hesse. 1 m. E. rises the 
Hohenstein, a table rock 1075 ft. high, 
with precipitous sides. JST.W. from 
Oldendorf is the castle of Schaumburg, 
built 1030, the family seat of the 
Counts of that name. In one part of 
the castle is a gate called " the gate of 
Heaven," so called from the beautiful 
view suddenly opened to the visitor. 
The hill, called Paschenburg, 1200 ft. 
high, hangs over the castle (see p. 360). 
An hotel, much resorted to, is found on 
this elevated spot, the residence of the 
ranger of the surrounding forests. 

1. Binteln. {Inns: Stadt Bremen, 
Rathskeller.) 4000 inhab., capital of 
the Hessian county of Schaumburg, 
with a stone bridge over the Weser. 
Until 1809 there was an university 
here. A beautiful road leads hence to 
the watering-place of Eilsen, to the 
Ludnerklippe, 3 m. off, a cliff from 
which there is a fine view ; and to the 
Amsburg, a castle belonging to the 
Prince of Schaumburg-Lippe, with a 
collection of antiquities, a picture 
gallery, and furnished in the style of 
the middle ages. It is shown to 
strangers. 

1. Mollenbeck, formerly a convent, 
containing a Gothic ch. 

1. Varenholz, with a castle, dating 
from 1595, picturesquely situated on 
the slope of a hill. 

1. Vlotho, a Prussian town of 2200 
inhab., with considerable trade. 

1. Rehme, containing salt-works be- 
longing to the Prussian government. 



398 



ROUTE 74B. — WITTENBERGE TO MAGDEBURG. Sect. V. 



(See page 359.) Here the Minden and 
Cologne railroad crosses the Weser. 

1. Wedigenstein, with a ruined 
Saxon castle, the residence of the Saxon 
Duke Wittekind, the successful op- 
ponent of Charlemagne, rt. The range 
of the Siintel ; and 1. that of the Weden- 
berg, approach and form the Wesers- 
charte — the Porta Westphalica, through 
which the "VVeser enters the plain of 1ST. 
Germany. (Seep. 360.) The hills imme- 
diately above the pass are called, l.Witte- 
kindsberg, on the rt. Jacobsberg. On 
the former, 780 ft. high, is a tower 60 
ft., dedicated, 1830, ''to the admirers 
of nature," and not far off from it is 
St. Margaret's chapel, built in the 14th 
cent. Jacobsberg was formerly 
called Mt. Anthony, but the present 
name was given by Frederick the Great, 
from one of his old soldiers, who settled 
here as a vintager, and supplied the 
king with excellent grapes. At the 
foot of the Jacobsberg is rt. Haus- 
berge. 

1. Minden. See Ete. 66. 

Below Minden down to Bremen the 
shores of the river are flat. 

1. Todtenhausen, scene of the battle 
of Minden, 9 Aug. 1759. Rte. 66. 

1. Petershsgen : the former residence 
of the Bp. of Minden. 

1. Schlusselburg, with an ancient 
house, containing public offices, for- 
merly an episcopal stronghold. 

1. Stolzenau. Inn : D. of York. 
First Hanoverian place on the lower 
Weser, a pretty village, with an old 
castle, formerly the residence of the 
Counts of Hoya : afterwards an occa- 
sional resort of George II. of England. 

1. Liebenau, also a castle of the 
Counts Hoya. 

rt. Nienburg, a station on the Bre- 
men and Hanover railroad. Ete. 72 a. 

rt. Drakenburg : here the Smalkaldic 
League defeated the Imperialists, 23 
May, 1547. 

1. Hoya. Inn, Stadt Hanover. 2000 



inhab. An iron bridge here crosses 
the Weser. In the neighbourhood is 
the Holy Mount, covered with trees, 
where from time immemorial vast 
number of herons have built nests. 

rt. At a distance above the junction 
of the Aller with the Weser is seen 
the town of Verden, with its cathedral. 
Rte. 72 a. 

rt. Arbergen is the birthplace of 
Olbers the astronomer, and Heeren 
the historian. 

Bremen. Rte. 69. 

ROUTE 74 b. 

WITTENBERGE TO MAGDEBURG. 
RAILWAY. 

This railway saves the long cir- 
cuit to Berlin to those travellers be- 
tween Hamburg and Leipzig, or Ba- 
varia, who do not wish to visit Berlin. 
It leaves the Hamburg and Berlin 
Railway at the Wittenberge Station, 
See Rte. 61 . Not to be confounded with 
the Wittenberg of Luther and Hamlet 
(Rte. 63). Trains reach Magdeburg 
from this station in about 4 hrs. 
The line immediately crosses the Elbe. 

Seehausen Stat. 

Osterburg Stat. 

Golbeck Stat, 

Stendal Stat. This town of 6300 
inhab. was formerly a fortress, and re- 
sidence of the Margraves of Bran- 
denburg. It has a fine Cathedral. 
with coloured windows, executed 1480, 
and a Bolandsdule (see note, p. 375). 
In the 14th cent, it contained 20,000 
inhab., and was one of the most flourish- 
ing of the Hanse towns. Winekelnian 
was born here 1717 ; d. 1768. 

Demker Stat. 

Mahlwinkel Stat. 

Rogatz Stat. 

Wollmirstadt Stat, Here are the 
ruins of an ancient castle, and near here, 
at Sommereschenburg, is a monument 
to F. M. Gneisenau, who died 1831. 

Magdeburg Stat. See Rte. 66. 



Prussia. 



( 399 ) 



SECTION VI. 



PRUSSIA— continued. 



ROUTE PAGE 

75. Berlin to Stettin, Railway — 

and to Danzig 399 

76. Stettin to Stralsund, the Baths 

of Putbvis, and the Island of 
Bilgen 401 

77. Berlin to Danzig 404 

78. Danzig to Konigsberg . . . 407 

79. Konigsberg to Memel, by Til- 

sit 410 

80. Berlin to Danzig, by Brom- 

berg 410 

80 a. Berlin to Posen . . . .411 
80 b. Posen to Stettin, — Railway 411 

81. Berlin to Breslau by Frank- 

furt on the Oder, — Railway 411 



ROUTE PAGE 

82. Dresden to Breslau . . . .415 

83. The Riesengebirge — Bunz- 

lau to Hirschberg, Warm- 
brunn, Schmiedeberg, Lands- 
hut, and Adersbach . . . 

84. The Riesengebirge — Bres- 

lau to Schweidnitz, Traute- 
nau, and Prague .... 

84 a. Dresden to Zittau and 

Reichenberg, by Herrnhut . 

85. Breslau to Prague, by Glatz . 

85 a. Breslau to Cracow, — Rail- 

way , 

85 b. Breslau to Vienna, — RaiU 
way 



416 



421 

422 

424 

425 
426 



ROUTE 75. 



BERLIN TO STETTIN AND DANZIG. 



Railroad to Stettin =18 Germ, m., 
85 Eng. m. 2 trains daily in 4i hrs. 

Terminus outside the Oranienburg 
Gate. The line makes a bend at first, 
passing the village of Louisenbrunnen, 
Pankow, &c., to 

3 Bernau Stat., a town whose inhab. 
defended themselves stoutly against 
the Hussites 1432, and captured some 
of their armour, still preserved in the 
Rathhaus. 

3 Neustadt-Eberswalde Stat. — Inns ; 
H. de Prusse; Sonne. A manufac- 
turing town, of 3500 inhab., on the 
Finow canal, which connects the Oder 
with the Havel. There are very ex- 
tensive paper-mills near this. 2 Germ, 
m. E. of this lies Freyenwalde, a water- 
ing-place on the Oder. (Inns : Konig v. 
Preussen; Adler.) 

In the next stage the Finow canal is 
crossed, and (rt.) the sequestered Cis- 
tercian Abbey Chorin, a good specimen 
of N. German Gothic, in tolerable pre- 



servation, now a tavern, and several 
small lakes, (Paarsteiner See) are 
passed. 

3 Angermiinde Stat., a very old 
town, with an old high church; 3000 
inhab. 

[2| Germ. m. from this, on the Oder, 
lies Schwedt — (Inn : Deutsches Haus) 
— a town of 4600 inhab. : many of them 
are descendants of French emigrants, 
and a portion are Jews. The Palace 
was originally the residence of a branch 
of the family of Margraves of Bran- 
denburg, now extinct. Their summer 
palace Montplaisir lies at the termina- 
tion of an avenue 2 m. from the town. 
One of the Margraves and his wife 
are buried in granite coffins in the 
French Ch. 

3 Passow Stat. 

[3 1 Germ. m. N.W. of Passow is 
Prenzlow, on the Unter-Ucker See. 
An organ erected in a church here is 
said to rival the organs of Haarlem and 
Fribourg.] 

3 Tantow Stat. The railway is car- 
ried partly on embankments along the 



400 



ROUTE 75. — BERLIN TO STETTIN. SWINEMUNDE. Sect. VI. 



valleys of the Randow and Welse. On 
the rt. views are obtained of the lake of 
Damm, formed by the Oder spreading 
out into a broad sheet of water behind 
it. The railway is carried through the 
fortifications to reach the terminus at 

3 Stettin Stat. {Inns : H. de Prusse, 
in the Louisen Strasse ; Drei Kronen), 
a flourshing town, where there is little 
to see ; it is the capital of Pomerania, 
upon the bank of the Oder, but con- 
nected by bridges within the suburb 
Lastadie on the rt. bank. It has 
40,000 inhab., ^including the garrison, 
and is remarkable as a strong fortress 
and place of considerable commerce, 
being the outlet for the manufactures of 
Silesia conveyed down the Oder from 
Frankfurt and Breslau, and the depot 
for foreign goods required to supply 
that province as well as the metropolis 
of Prussia. About 1000 vessels enter 
the port yearly, and 200 belong to it. 
The Schloss Kirche contains the tombs 
of the old Dukes of Pomerania. The 
Schloss, built 1577, and now converted 
into government offices, was the resi- 
dence of the Dukes of Pomerania, who 
died out 1637. At the Peace of 
"Westphalia Stettin was given over to 
Sweden, and by that of Stockholm, 
1720, transferred to Prussia. Fine 
view from the Trappenthurm of the 
Schloss. The Rathhaus dates from 
1245. In the Konigsplatz is a marble 
statue of Frederick the Great, by Scha- 
dow. In the Marienplatz is the New 
Gymnasium, to which an observatory, 
library, and museum are attached. 
Two Empresses of Russia were born 
here — Catherine the Great (1729), 
and Maria Feodorowna, wife of the 
Empr. Paul (1759). There is a hand- 
some new Borse and a Theatre here. 
The chief Promenade is the Logengarten, 
outside the Anclam Gate. The best 
view of the town is from the Militair- 
Friedhof, not far from the Railway Stat. 

An English Consul resides at Stettin. 

The Oder, after flowing past Stettin, 
in four branches, discharges itself into 
a large lake called the Haff : this again 
communicates with the Baltic by 3 
mouths, which form the 2 large islands, 
Usedom, on which lies Swinemunde, 
and Wollin. 



Schnellpost to Danzig; — to Stralsund. 

Steamers once a week to Copenhagen 
in 24 hrs. ;— nearly every day to Put- 
bus in Riigen (Rte. 76) ; — to St. Peters- 
burg in 70 hrs.; — to Schwedt on the 
Oder daily, in 5 or 6 hrs. ; — between 
Stettin and 

Swinemunde. — Inns : Olthoffs ; Kron 
Prinz. This town, of 3500 inhab., has 
latterly acquired importance from the 
improvements made in its harbour, 
which have rendered it the outport of 
Stettin. The entrance to it is unluckily 
very shallow, but extensive moles and 
works have been erected, and dredging 
machines are constantly employed in 
deepening the bed of the Oder to re* 
medy this defect, and it is now capable 
of admitting vessels drawing 18 or 19 
ft. water to unload their cargoes, and in 
securing a depth of 12 to 16 ft. even 
up as far as Stettin. Swinemunde 
stands on the shores of the Baltic, upon 
an island between it and the salt lake 
called Stettiner Haff, separated from 
the main land by the Swine and other 
mouths or channels through which the 
Oder empties itself into the sea. 

About 1^- m. from the town, and 
separated from it by a wood, lie the 
Sea Baths of Swinemunde, consisting 
of a Bath-house and an Assembly- 
room (Gesellschaftshaus), in which 
there is a daily table-d'hote, dinner at 
one. Visitors usually lodge at the inns 
in the town. 

Distinct spots, separated by consider- 
able intervals, are marked out on the 
sea- shore as bathing-places for ladies 
and gentlemen. At the one extremity 
men are allowed to bathe without bath- 
ing-machines or covered cabinets ; at 
the opposite end the females enjoy the 
same privileges ; and between these re- 
mote spots are ranged bathing-machines 
for either sex. 

At a very early period, the Tends 
(Wenden), a Slavonic tribe occupying 
the whole of the southern coast of the 
Baltic from the Elbe to Esthonia, had 
a seaport called Julin (Jivnrneta) in the 
island of Wollin, at the mouth of the 
Oder. It is described by chroniclers 
as the greatest commercial city of 
Europe in the 11th cent. Near it was 
Jomsburg, the stronghold of Palnatoki, 



russia. 



ROUTE 76. — STETTIN TO STRALSUND. 



401 



a celebrated Scandinavian sea-rover 
and chief of a kind of piratical republic 
which he founded here at the latter 
end of the 10th cent. 

From the hill called Streckelberg , 
about 14 m. N.W. of Swinenriinde, 
there is a very fine view. 

It was upon this island of Usedom, 
June 24, 1630, that the Champion 
of Protestantism, Gustavus Adolphus, 
landed with an army of 17,000 Swedes. 
As soon as he reached the shore, he 
fell on his knees, and, after a short 
prayer in sight of his soldiers, directed 
them to entrench themselves, seizing- a 
spade with his own hand to show them 
the example. When tidings of this 
event were brought to the Emperor 
Ferdinand, he made light of the mat- 
ter, sarcastically terming the Swedish 
leader " a snow-king, who would melt 
as the summer drew near, and as he 
advanced towards a more southern 
climate." The following year 6000 
English volunteers (amongst whom must 
have been Dugald Dalgetty) arrived 
on this spot to reinforce Gustavus. 

Stettin to Danzig. 

47 £ Pruss. m.=124Eng. m. Schnell- 
post daily in 33 hrs. An excellent 
macadamised post-road, running nearly 
parallel with the shore of the Baltic. 
It is carried side by side with the rail- 
way (p. 410) across the 4 branches of 
the Oder, along a dam of masonry 4| m. 
long, and over 3 long and 20 shorter 
bridges, to 

If Alt-Damm, a town and fortress 
on the rt. bank of the Oder. 

1 Hornkrug. 

2 Gollnow on the Ihna. 

'3\ Naugard. A Penitentiary here. 

2i Plathe. 

2 j Reselkow. 

3f Korlin: Post. 

[18 m. N.W., close to the sea, lies 
Kolberg (Inn, Kbnig von Preussen), a 
fortress bravely defended against the 
French in 1806-7. The modern Rath- 
haus, built by Zwirner, the restorer of 
the Dom of Cologne, and the Marien- 
kirche, with its antiquities, candelabra, 
with statues of apostles, and carved 
wood-work, merit notice.] 

3f Kbslin [Inn: Bar), 4 m. from 
the Baltic, the largest town on the road. 



2* 

n 

3A 

4 



Pankenin. 

Schlawe. 

Stolpe. Kutscher's Inn. 

Poganitz. 



Lauenburg. 






Klein- Ankerholz . 
Neustadt. 

Katz, on the Baltic shore. 
2£ Danzig, in Kte. 77. 

ROUTE 76. 

STETTIN TO STRALSUND AND THE ISLAND 
OP RUGEN — THE BATHS OF PUTBUS. 

Rugen, the largest island belonging 
to Germany, is situated in the Baltic, 
separated only by the narrow strait 
of Gellen from Prussian Pomerania, 
in which province it is included. It 
abounds in romantic scenery, on ac- 
count of which, and of the advantages 
of sea-bathing which it affords, it is 
frequented in summer by visitors from 
all parts of Northern Germany. It 
may be termed a German Isle of Wight, 
and indeed bears some resemblance 
to the English island in the conforma- 
tion of its lofty chalk-cliffs, though it 
is better wooded, and is further dis- 
tinguished by the narrow bays or bights 
which penetrate far inland. 

Steamers in summer from Swine- 
nriinde to Putbus, in 8 to 10 hrs., 5 or 
6 times a week. 

There is an excellent post-road from 
Stettin by Pasewalk, passing the fine 
Rothmuller Wald, to 

Anclam. Picturesque gate tower; 
the town contains many specimens of 
the peculiar style of the Hanseatic or 
N . German architecture, very like the 
Flemish. 

Greifswald {Inn: Deutsches Haus), 
a curious old seaport town, of 8000 
inhab., possessing an University, found- 
ed 1456, which numbers about 200 
students. The square and churches 
are highly grotesque. 

There are 2 Ferries across the Strait 
separating Biigen from the mainland : 
— 1st. From Stahlbrode, about 12 m. 
W. of Greifswald, called Gleioitzer 
Fahre. At Glewitz, the landing-place 
(2| Germ, m.), conveyances may 
usually be hired to Putbus, 2f Germ, 
m., by Garz. 2nd. From Stralsund 



402 



ROUTE 76. — STETTIN TO STRALSUND. PUTBUS. Sect. VI. 



by the Alte Fahre, a shorter and safer 
passage in stormy weather, the strait 
not being more than a mile broad here ; 
the other ferry is 2 m. 

Stralsund (Inn, Lowe (lion), in the 
Alten Markt, best), an interesting and 
nearly unaltered town, was formerly 
capital of Swedish Pomerania, and a 
fortress of great strength. It was ceded 
to Prussia in 1815. It is situated on 
the borders of the strait called G-ellen, 
separating Bugen from the mainland. 
The town is entirely surrounded by 
water, and approachable from the S. 
only by bridges. It has 17,000 inhab. 
The Nicolai Kirche, of brick, begun 1311, 
is very lofty, richly ornamented within, 
and contains a good deal to see — an iron 
screen all round the choir worthy of 
imitation, and much painting and carv- 
ing ; also an engraved monumental 
brass, 1354 (?). The view from its 
tower is remarkable. The Rathhaus, a 
fine edifice surmounted by 7 towers, 
was built 1316. Within it is shown the 
stone on which the indefatigable Charles 
XII. was found, by the sentinel on 
duty outside the walls, fast asleep, be- 
fore the gate, on his return from Bender. 
Schill, the brave but imprudent soldier 
who took up arms in 1808, without 
authority from his sovereign, in the 
hope of freeing Germany from the 
French, was shot in attempting a sortie, 
in the Fahrstrasse : a stone marks the 
spot. The public fountain is named after 
him, Schillsbrunnen. A simple marble 
monument, bearing the inscription 
" Magna voluisse magnum," marks the 
spot, in the Knieper Burial-ground, where 
the remains of that brave soldier, robbed 
of the head, were originally interred; 
but they have lately been removed to 
Brunswick. 

During the 30 Years' War (1628) 
Stralsund was the place which first 
checked the career of the previously ir- 
resistible Wallenstein. He had sworn 
to take Stralsund, " even though it were 
fastened by chains to heaven," vowing 
vengeance upon the child unborn when 
he should gain possession. This impi- 
ous boast, however, was not destined to 
be fulfilled, for through the brave de- 
fence of its citizens aided by a party of 
Scotch mercenaries in the pay of Den- 



mark, he was at last compelled to raise 
the siege, after a loss of 12,000 men be- 
fore its walls. In 1715 the town was 
besieged by the allied army of the Prus- 
sians, Danes, and Saxons. Charles 
XII., then recently escaped from Tur- 
key, conducted the defence for a consi- 
derable time. At length he was obliged 
to retire, and the town surrendered to 
Denmark. Steamers to Ystad and Stock- 
holm twice a week. (Handbook for 
Denmark.) 

Schnellpost daily to Passow on the 
Berlin and Stettin railway — to Bostock. 

In going from Stralsund to Putbus 
the Old Ferry is crossed. 

2 ;| Garz. Busch's Inn. 

1 ~ Putbus — Inns : Furstenhof, best ; 
Bellevue; Schwartz's. A bed-room costs 
llj Sgr. ; dinner, 12g Sgr. Putbus is 
a watering-place with 700 permanent 
inhab., belonging to the Prince of Put- 
bus, a very wealthy nobleman, said to 
be the lineal descendant of the ancient 
Kings of Bugen. His Palace (Schloss) 
is a handsome Italian edifice, and the 
principal building in the place. It con- 
tains a chapel, library, some good paint- 
ings and statues (3 by Thorwaldsen), 
and a collection of antiquities found in 
the island. Adjoining the Palace is the 
Saloon or dining-room, where there is a 
daily table-d'hote, and the Pavilion, 
containing assembly and music rooms 
for the use of the visitors ; the Theatre, 
and the New School, opened 1836. At- 
tached to the palace is a delightful Park, 
with gardens and pleasure-grounds open 
to the public. The Prince's stables con- 
tain a very superior stud. 

A mile from Putbus, on the sea-shore, 
is the Badhaus, supplied with warm 
sea-baths. There are also bathing- 
machines for those who prefer the open 
sea. 

The great attraction of Putbus is its 
beautiful situation near the borders of a 
bay with an island in front. High 
wooded banks and long indented pro- 
montories shelter it from the Baltic. 
From the excellent accommodation fur- 
nished by the lodging-houses, Putbus 
is the best head-quarters for those who 
intend to explore the island. All 
charges are fixed by printed tariff. 

The Prince's agent lets out horses 



Prussia, route 76. — rugen. sagard. stubbenkammer. 



403 



and carriages for hire at a moderate 
charge. 

The Steamer from Swinemiinde lands 
its passengers on the boat-pier at Lau- 
terbach, 2 m. from the Baths. Passen- 
gers arriving by the boat, and intend- 
ing to return by it, had better hire for 1 
or 2 days one of the carriages waiting 
on the spot, set out at once on the ex- 
cursion round the island, and leave 
Putbus till their return. The most in- 
teresting objects in Rugen are 

Stubbenkammer and Arkona, nearly 
18 m. apart, and the same distance from 
Putbus, and the country between them 
is comparatively tame. 

The following sketch of a tour round 
the Island includes all the most remark- 
able objects, starting from Putbus to the 

1^ Jagdschloss {Inn in summer), a 
handsome hunting-lodge of Prince Put- 
bus, commanding a delightful view over 
the hills called 

Prora, on the narrow isthmus called 
the schmale Heide, which unites the 
promontory Jasmund to the main island. 

Sagard — Inn, Fiirstenkrone, the larg- 
est in Rugen. Near this is the Tumu- 
lus of Dubberworth. 

The N. extremity of the island Ru- 
gen consists of a long narrow peninsula, 
or rather of 2 peninsulas — that of Jas- 
mund, and beyond it that of "Wittow — 
connected with each other and the main 
island by 2 narrow necks of land. The 
length of this united promontory is 
about 25 m. The bay or firth which it 
encloses is crossed by one or two ferries, 
at which carriages and foot passengers 
can be transferred from one side to the 
other, thus avoiding the necessity. of 
retracing the same road in returning 
from Arkona. 

Beyond Sagard, the road enters the 
ancient beech wood of Stubbenitz. Here 
the goddess Hertha was worshipped by 
the Pagan Saxons ; and close to this is 
the Ilerthaburg, an eminence crowned 
by a nearly oval wall or entrenchment 
constructed by the ancient inhabitants 
of the island. It is supposed that 
within the enclosure stood the Temple 
of the Heathen goddess Hertha, de- 
scribed by Tacitus (Germ. c. 40), who 
mentions the unviolated grove (castum 
nemus) in which stood the chariot of 



the goddess, drawn by 2 cows, and the 
secret lake, in which the goddess, her 
clothes, and chariot were washed. A 
high and broad rampart of earth is the 
only relic of this temple. (See p. 318.) 
It abounds in stone sepulchres, called 
Hiinengraber (see p. 377), in which 
skeletons and jars full of bones and ashes 
have been found. The whole district 
is likewise celebrated in Scandinavian 
poetry and mythology. Buried in the 
recesses of this mysterious grove lies the 
Hertha See, called the Black lake, from 
the dark shadows of the beech woods 
around. It is stilled looked upon 
with veneration by the inhabitants. 
It is about 200 paces long, and 48 ft. 
deep in the centre. These localities, 
and various ancient remains existing 
upon the island, such as tumuli and 
cromlechs, possess additional interest, if 
we regard them as the relics of a nation 
by whom Rome was overthrown after 
an existence of 12 centuries. Odoacer, 
who finally captured the Imperial city, 
was king of the Rugii, and the cradle of 
the barbarian hordes who formed his 
army was this remote and insignificant 
island, and the neighbouring coast of 
Pomerania. 

3 Immediately beyond the Hertha 
See and the wood of Stubbenitz, rises 
the foreland of the Stubbenkammer, a 
precipice of chalk, 440 ft. high, rising- 
out of the sea, somewhat like Shak- 
speare's cliff at Dover. A large Inn, 
called Gross Schweitzer Haus, has been 
built at Stubbenkammer, on the verge 
of the forest. A staircase of 600 steps 
cut in the rock leads from the shore to 
the highest summit, called Konigsstuhl. 
Hither travellers repair to see the sun 
rise and set, and to enjoy the view. On 
the W. the promontory of Arkona, the 
most northern point of Rugen, stretches 
far out into the sea. 

The Stubbenkammer is about 18 m. 
from Putbus, and 15 m. from Bergen. 

At Quoltitz is the Stone of Sacrifice, 
a rude block traversed by a groove or 
channel, to collect, it is conjectured, 
the blood of human victims. Spieker, 
a country-seat of Prince Putbus, is a 
fanciful castle, built by Baron Wrangel, 
after the 30 Years' War. 

The way from Stubbenkammer to 



404 



ROUTE 77. — BERLIN TO DANZIG. 



Sect. VI. 



Arkona lies along another narrow 
tongue of land, called Die Schabe, 
"which unites the promontory Jasmund 
to that of Wittow. At the village of 
Altenkirchen (Haas's Inn), the poet 
Kosegarten, who was its pastor, is 
buried. For 8 successive Sundays, 
during the season of the herring fishery, 
the minister preaches upon the shore to 
the fishermen assembled around him in 
their boats, from the neighbouring is- 
lands. A figure, said to be of the idol 
Swantewit, is built into the wall of the 
Church. 

4 Arkona, the most northern promon- 
tory of the island, partly a chalk cliff, 
173 ft. above the sea, is surmounted by 
a lighthouse, which furnishes accom- 
modation to travellers. The view from 
it extends over the coast of the promon- 
tory Jasmund to the island Hiddensoe, 
and to the more distant Danish island 
Moen. 

Upon Arkona stood the ancient For- 
tress of the Vends, who at one period 
inhabited this island, called Burgring. 
It was a circular entrenchment, from 
30 to 40 yards high, with an opening to 
the N.W. Within it stood the temple 
of the 4-headed god Swantevit, destroy- 
ed by the Danes under King Waldemar, 
who took it by storm 1168, carried off 
its treasures to Denmark, and introduced 
Christianity into the island. Saxo 
Grrammaticus, the historian, was present 
at the capture. 

Travellers must now either return by 
Altenkirchen and Wiek to the Wittow 
Ferry, and, after crossing it, proceed 
direct to 

5^ Bergen, or they may prolong their 
tour by taking boat and making an ex- 
cursion to the neighbouring island Hid- 
densoe, whose inhabitants, a poor and 
primitive race, not much raised above 
the condition of Esquimaux, live chiefly 
in turf-covered huts, and support them- 
selves by fishing. Many of them spend 
their whole lives on the spot, and never 
set foot even on Rugen. There is not 
a bush on the whole island. For fuel 
the people have recourse to peat or cow- 
dung ; yet, with so few attractions, the 
island is said to be dear to its children, 
who call it " dat sotelanne," the sweet 
little land. 



Bergen [Inn, Adler) is the chief town 
in Rugen, and has 3500 inhab. To the 
N". of it rises the hill of Rugard, the 
highest in Rugen, surmounted by the 
ruins of the ancient fortress destroyed 
1316. From this spot the whole island, 
with its deeply indented shores, may be 
surveyed as a map laid open at the spec- 
tator's feet. 

The distance hence to Stralsund is 
about 16m., including the ferry. From 
Bergen to Putbus is 6 m. 

Plan for an excursion of 1 day round 
Rugen, starting from Putbus : to the 
Jagdschloss, Schmaeler See, Prora, and 
the Schanzenberg, by Lanken and the 
new wood-road to Stubbenkammer — 
return by Sagard, the Jasmund ferry, 
and Bergen, to Putbus. Distance about 
45 m. 

ROUTE 77. 

BERLIN TO DANZIG. 

6 1-5 Pruss. m.=284 Eng. m. Courier 
4 times a week in 37 hrs. ; Personen- 
post daily in 52 hrs. The quickest way 
at present, owing to the Railroad, is by 
Stettin (Rte. 80). Schnellpost twice a 
week. (Rte. 75.) The country is dull 
and uninteresting all the way to Dan- 
zig ; the road is macadamised and good 
all the way ; the inns are for the most 
part bad, so that those who can bear 
the fatigue had better sleep in their 
carriage at night instead of stopping by 
the way. The journey to Danzig may 
thus be performed in 48 hrs. 

2± Dahlwitz. 

2-j; Lichtenau. 

2\ Muncheberg. Here the post road 
to Frankfurt on the Oder branches off. 

2± Seelow. 

2^ Kilstrin[Inns: KronPrinz ; Adler). 
A strong fortress and town of 4700 in- 
hab., surrounded by marshes, at the 
junction of the Warthe with the Oder, 
over which a bridge 875 ft. long is 
thrown. Frederick the Great was con- 
fined in the old castle by his imperioxis 
and crazy father, and compelled to look 
on while his friend Katte was executed 
on the ramparts. The great post road 
from Berlin to Posen and Warsaw strikes 
off here to the E. (Rte. 80 a). 6 m. 
N. of Kustrin is the village of Zomdorf, 



'russia. 



ROUTE 77. DANZIG. CATHEDRAL. 



40o 



where Frederick the Great, with 30,000 
Prussians, defeated 50,000 Russians, 
under Fermor, in 1758. A monument 
marks the spot where the king stood. 
The road runs nearly parallel with the 
"Warthe, as far as 

3 1 Balz. Inn, Post. 

3 Landsberg. Inn, Golden Hirsch, 
good. A nourishing small town, of 
10,000 inhab. 

3^ Friedeberg. Several small lakes 
are passed on this stage. 

2t$ Woldenberg, a station on the rail- 
way from Stettin to Bromberg. Rail- 
ways to Stettin (Rte. 75); to Posen 
(Rte. 80 a.) ; and to Bromberg. (Rte. 
80.) The country is rather picturesque 
as far as 

2 Hochzeit, and is ornamented by 
other lakes. 

1 Ziitzer. 

2-| Ruschendorf. Here the road to 
Konigsberg by Bromberg (Rte. 80) di- 
verges. 

2-?£ Deutsche Krone. Inn, not good. 

2 Schonthal. 

2 Jastrow. Inn, tolerable. 

3 j Peterswalde. 

3 Schlochau. 

2 Konitz. Inns : Lowe ; Kronprinz. 
A town with a population of 2600. A 
monument commemorates the defeat of 
the Hussites. On the Kreutzberg, out- 
side the town, Casimir of Poland was 
defeated by the Knights of the Teutonic 
Order and lost his crown. 

4 Czersk. 

3 Frankenfelde. Forests. 

3 Preussisch-Stargard. Inn, Goldene 
Krone, tolerable. 

3 Dirschau on the Vistula (Weichsel) . 
Here the road to Danzig turns off from 
that to Konigsberg. The traveller who 
does not intend to visit Danzig con- 
tinues on direct to Marienburg (Rte. 
78, p. 407). 

4± Danzig (in Polish, Gdansk). Inns : 
H. de Berlin, good ; Englisches Haus. 
Danzig, one of the oldest cities in Prus- 
sia, abounding in picturesque old build- 
ings, is situated on the 1. bank of the 
W. arm of the Vistula, or Weichsel, 
about 3 m. above its influx into the sea. 
It is traversed by 2 tributaries of that 
river, the Motlau and Radaune, and 
has 58,000 inhab. (13,500 Rom. Cath.). 



It is a fortress of the first class, and the- 
principal sea-port of Prussia. It was 
anciently a leading member of the Han- 
seatic League, and a free city. It is 
still a place of great commerce, espe- 
cially in wheat brought down the Vis- 
tula from Poland, and other corn-pro- 
ducing countries, and shipped from hence 
to all parts of Europe. The exports of 
wheat are greater than from any other 
port in the world. Here are extensive 
distilleries of brandy, which hence gets 
the name of Danzig. The granaries, of 
enormous dimensions, capable of hold- 
ing 500,000 quarters of corn, are situ- 
ated on an island called Speicher InseL 
To avoid the risk of fire no one lives 
upon it, nor are lights ever admitted. 
The timber trade is also very consider- 
able. Amber is exported hence. 

The chief object of curiosity is the 
brick Cathedral (Dom, or Marienkirche) 
in the Lange Markt, begun in 1343, 
by Waizau, grand master of the Teu- 
tonic knights, who sent an architect, 
Ulric Ritter of Strasburg, to Constan- 
tinople, to make drawings of the eh. of 
St. Sophia there. The plan of copying 
that edifice, however, was not carried 
into execution. The ch., as it now 
stands, was not finished till 1503 — it is 
358 ft. long. The vaulted roof, sup- 
ported by 26 slender brick pillars, is 98 
ft. above the pavement. Around the 
interior are 50 chapels, originally found- 
ed by the chief citizens as burial-places 
for themselves and their families. It 
possesses a fine brass font, cast in 1554, 
in the Netherlands, and an astronomical 
clock, which has long ceased to move. 
It was made by an artist named Durin- 
ger, who, according to the story, was 
deprived of his eyesight by the citizens 
of Danzig, to prevent his making a 
similar clock for the rival town of Ham- 
burg. The blind artist, a short time 
before his death, was led, by his own 
desire, to the spot where his master- 
piece was placed, and, with a pair of 
scissors, cut a single small wire, which 
sufficed at once to stop the clock, and 
no subsequent attempt has succeeded in 
repairing the injury. Such is the tra- 
dition. The great ornament of the Dom 
is the celebrated Last Judgment, attri- 
buted to John Van Eyck (it has also 



406 



ROUTE 77. — DANZIG. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



Sect. VI, 



been attributed to M. Wohlgemuth, Hugo 
van der Goes, J. Memling and Justus of 
Ghent, see Kugler, § xyii. note by Sir E. 
Head), known as the Danzig Picture. 
It was painted for the Pope, and while 
on its way to Rome was intercepted by 
pirates, but was retaken by a Danzig 
vessel and deposited in the Cathedral, 
where it remained till 1807, when the 
French transported it to Paris. " On its 
return, after the war, the king of Prussia 
was very anxious to retain it at Berlin, 
and offered 40,000 dollars as a compen- 
sation, but yielded to the pressing in- 
stances of the rightful owners for its 
restoration." The picture is said to 
bear about it the date 1367 ; if so, it 
cannot be by the Van Eycks, as they 
were but just born at that time. A 
crucifix, carved on wood in a very ad- 
mirable style of art, and with great 
truth of expression, is the second curi- 
osity of this ch. It has been here since 
the middle of the 15th cent., but the 
artist's name is unknown. According 
to the story, he actually crucified one 
of his apprentices, in order to study 
more exactly the agonies of a human 
being dying under such circumstances. 

Trinity Church, of red brick, with 
richly ornamented gable, date 1431, 
merits attention. 

The Langgasse is the principal street 
intersecting Danzig from E. to W., and 
prolonged into the Lange Markt, or Long 
Market, which abounds in antique build- 
ings ; the finest is the Exchange, called 
Arthushof, an imposing Gothic edifice, 
built 1379, but altered and enlarged 
1 552. In its greathall, the vaultedroof of 
which is supported by 4 slender pillars 
of granite, the guilds and corporations 
formerly met. Their laws, in rhyme, 
are still hung up in it ; and its walls 
are further decorated with carvings, old 
armour, and pictures ; the most singular 
of which is a representation of the 
church, under the form of a ship, sail- 
ing to heaven full of monks, who are 
throwing out ropes, hooks, &c, to haul 
on board a few miserable sinners, who 
but for their assistance would inevi- 
tably be drowned. Notice should be 
taken of two pictures by Danzig artists, 
a Last Judgment, by A. Midler, a pupil 
of Raphael, 1601, and a Madonna and 



Christ, by Andreas Steck. In front is 
a fine fountain, ornamented with bronze 
figures of Neptune drawn by sea-horses. 
Not far from the Arthushof is the Rath- 
haus, built probably in 1311, with a 
lofty belfry, dating from 1581. The 
tall brick tower, called Stockthurm 
(1346), was originally one of the en- 
trances into the town : the turrets were 
added 1508 : it is now a prison. 

The Griine Thor, a large building, 
originally designed as a lodging for 
the King' of Poland, is now converted 
into a Museum. The collection of im- 
plements, dresses, etc., was presented 
by Sir Joseph Banks. There is a theatre 
here. 

A British consul resides here. One 
quarter of the town is called Schott- 
land, from a colony of Scotch weavers 
who settled here in the 14th cent. 

By means of the gigantic sluice-gates 
near the Lege Thor, the country around 
three sides of the town can be laid under 
water, so as to contribute materially to 
its defence from an hostile attack. The 
key of the position is the Holm, an 
island formed by 2 arms of the Vistula. 
-There are besides several strong external 
forts, as the Hagelsberg and the Bis- 
chofsberg; the last has been greatly 
strengthened of late, and completely 
commands the town. 

Fahrenheit the optician, who invented 
the thermometer named after him, was 
born here. Marshal Lefebvre, Napo- 
leon's general, was created by him 
Duke of Danzig, in consequence of his 
having taken the town in 1807. At the 
peace of Paris it was yielded back to 
the Prussians, after an obstinate resist- 
ance, maintained by the French under 
General Rapp for many months, in 
1813, until the town was reduced, by 
famine and pestilence, to the lowest 
depth of distress. 

The port of Danzig is Neufahrivasser, 
at the mouth of the "W. arm of the 
Vistula. It is defended by the fort 
"VVeichselmiinde, has a lighthouse and 
an extensive pier at the entrance of the 
channel. Steamboats thither every ^ 
hour, daily, except Sundays, to Konigs- 
berg in 10 hours. Schnellposts to Stet- 
tin, Konigsberg, and Berlin. 

At the Convent of Oliva (suppressed 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 78. DANZIG TO KONIGSBERG. 



407 



,1830), 7 m. N.W. of Danzig, the treaty 
of peace between Sweden and Poland 
was signed 1660. The Church and clois- 
ters remain. The Abbot's Castle now 
belongs to the King, and has fine 
grounds. The sandy downs are clothed 
with rich beech woods. 

ROUTE 78. 

DANZIG TO KONIGSBERG, BY MARIEN- 
BURG. 

24i Pruss. m. = 113| Eng. m. 

Schnellpost daily in 15^ hours; Per- 
sonenpost in 20 hours. In going from 
Danzig to Konigsberg the preceding 
route must be retraced as far as 

4§ Dirschau. The "W. arm of the 
Vistula is here crossed by a bridge of 
boats, about to be replaced by a per- 
manent bridge, a work of great solidity ; 
and the road then traverses the fertile 
triangular plain, or Delta, deposited by 
the river, which is bounded at the 
further extremity by the eastern arm, 
called Nogat. The country between 
the Vistula and Nogat lies below the 
level of these rivers and of the Baltic, 
and is protected from inundations solely 
by dykes and windmills, as is the case 
in Holland. A bridge of boats is thrown 
across the Nogat, and on its right bank 
stands 

2^- Marienburg. Inn, Hochmeister. 
An ancient town of 5400 inhab., chiefly 
remarkable as the seat of the once 
powerful Knights of the Teutonic Order, 
to whom this country was ceded in the 
13th cent, by the King of Poland. 
After a struggle of 53 years the knights 
effectually subdued the pagan and then 
barbarous Prussians. The germ of the 
present Prussian empire sprung, in fact, 
from them ; and they appear likewise 
to have laid the foundation of that 
military spirit which still animates the 
nation. The Castle, or Palace of the 
Grand Masters, an imposing edifice, of 
brickwork, beautiful in construction, in 
a style of Gothic peculiar to the vicinity 
of the Baltic, was built at different 
periods; the Alte Schloss, now much 
decayed, in 1276; the Middle Castle 
in 1309, at the time when the seat of 
the Order was removed hither from 
Venice ; and the Niedere Schloss in 



1335. In 1457 it was surrendered to 
the Poles, after having been in the 
possession of the Order 148 years, and 
having been governed by 17 Grand 
Masters. Since 1815 the central build- 
ing has been rescued from ruin, and 
admirably restored, by the aid of the 
archives of the Order, now at Konigs- 
berg, which have been carefully con- 
sulted by the architect. It consists of 
3 stories, the cellar, ground floor, and 
master's dwelling. The apartments 
have been richly decorated with painted 
glass, encaustic tiles, wood panelling. 
The principal one, the grosse Rernter 
(Chapter House), in which assemblies 
of the Order were held, and foreign 
ambassadors received, is supported on 
3 granite pillars. The Meisters Render 
is a circular apartment, supported by a 
single pillar of granite in the centre. 
The Poles, while besieging Marienburg 
in 1410, endeavoured to aim a cannon- 
ball so as to shoot away this pillar, and 
overwhelm at one blow beneath the 
ruins the Grand Master and all his 
knights, whom they knew, from the 
information of a deserter, to be at the 
time assembled in conclave. The ball 
missed its aim, but lodged in a corner 
of the chimney, where it still remains. 
The Church, in a very chaste style, 
and tolerably perfect, is decorated ex- 
ternally with a figure of the Virgin, 
in relief, of stucco covered with coloured 
and gilt mosaic, 26 ft. high ; it displays 
considerable skill and knowledge of 
art. Many of the Grand Masters of 
the Order repose in vaults beneath the 
Church, in simple coffins. Many cells 
of the knightly monks, and their sub- 
terranean dungeons, still exist. The 
building has been rescued from ruin, 
and partly restored by the taste and 
munificence of the King. The Butter- 
milk Tower is so called, because, accord- 
ing to the tradition, the peasants, com- 
pelled to build it by forced labour for 
the Order, were also obliged to slake 
the lime with buttermilk. 

Beyond Marienburg the road passes 
through a populous country, abounding 
in villages, and showing evidences of 
prosperity and improvement. 

4£ Elbing. — Inn, Stadt Berlin. A 
decayed trading town, with a popula- 



408 



ROUTE 78.— KONIGSBERG. PALACE. 



Sect. VI. 



tion of 20,000, on the Elbing, a navi- 
gable stream emptying itself into the 
Frische Hatf, an extensive lake sepa- 
rated from the Baltic by a narrow strip 
of land, and receiving a large portion of 
the waters of the Vistula. The Marien- 
Jiirche contains some curious sculptures, 
date 1500. On quitting Elbing a good 
view is obtained of it. Steamers ply 
to Konigsberg daily. 

2 Hutte. 

1~ Frauenburg, a small town on the 
shore of the Haff. Copernicus, the 
great astronomer, died here, and is 
buried in the Cathedral, a handsome 
building on a height overlooking the 
town and Haif (erected 1342), contain- 
ing, besides his tomb, which is a simple 
tablet bearing a globe, some curiosities, 
as crucifixes, monstrances, &c. Coper- 
nicus was a canon of the cathedral, and 
lived in one of the houses which sur- 
round it. Within the enclosure is a 
well, furnished with water by an aque- 
duct and hydraulic works, constructed 
by him. The machinery of the pumps 
which he erected has long since dis- 
appeared, but a model of it is still pre- 
served in the cathedral, and is sirpposed 
to have been imitated in the water- 
works at Marly, near Versailles. The 
tower which contained it still stands 
near the cathedral, and is called Kunst 
Thurm. It bears on its southern wall 
the following inscription: — 

" Hie patienter aquae sursum properare coactee, 
Ne careat sitiens incola montis ope. 

Quod Natura negat, tribuit Copernicus arte ; 
Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus." 

Besides supplying the Domberg, or 
cathedral hill, he introduced into the 
town, by collecting the neighbouring 
streams, a current of water sufficient to 
turn a corn-mill, an advantage which 
its inhabitants did not before enjoy. 

It is a curious fact, and perhaps not 
generally known, that the Papal excom- 
munication of Copernicus, for publish- 
ing his system of the Heavens, was 
revoked in 1821. 

1 \ Braunsberg. Inns : Deutsches 
Haus ; Schwarzer Adler. A town of 
7300 inhab., on the Passarge. 

2 1 Quilitten. The road continues 
by the water-side all the way to Konigs- 
berg. 



2~ Brandenburg. 

2| Konigsberg (Polish, Krolewiec ; 
Latin, Regiomontum). Inns: Schon- 
berg's Hotel; Rheinischer Hof ; Deut- 
sches Haus ; H. du Nord. 

Konigsberg, once the capital of 
Prussia Proper, and long the residence 
of the Electors of Brandenburg, still 
ranks as third city in the Prussian do- 
minions in extent of population, having 
80,000 inhab. It is being strongly re- 
fortified, on the plan of detached forts. 
The Defensions Caserne and the new 
Konigsthor are finished. 

Its Palace (Schloss), a large ugly 
building, now converted into a go- 
vernment-house, was founded by Ot- 
tokar, King of Bohemia, after leading 
a crusade against the heathen Preussi, 
1257. It afterwards became the re- 
sidence of the Grand Masters of the 
Teutonic Order. It was the residence 
of the late King of Prussia and his 
queen Louisa, when driven by Na- 
poleon's arms from Berlin. Under one 
wing is a large wine-cellar, extend- 
ing below the ground; over it is 
the Schlosskirche, in which Frederick 
Elector of Brandenburg in 1701 placed 
the crown on his own head, assum- 
ing the title of Frederick I., King 
of Prussia. Above the church is a 
vast hall, 300 ft. long, 60 broad, and 
only 19 high, destitute of ornament, 
called Moskoicitzer Saal, from the Mus- 
covite ambassadors of the Grand Duke 
Basilius, who were received here by 
Margrave Albert. A thick pillar runs 
through every floor from the cellar 
upwards, and on breaking into it 
some years ago, it was found to be 
hollow, and partly filled with bones 
of persons executed during the rule 
of the Order, and whose bodies had 
been thrown down from above. One 
of the apartments is termed the Amber 
Chamber, from being decorated with 
that mineral. 

The Cathedral, in the quarter called 
Kneiphof, on an island in the Pregel, 
built 1332, is the finest edifice here, 
and deserves notice. It is an interest- 
ing Gothic building, and contains in 
the choir the marble monument of Mar- 
grave Albert of B. bearing his kneeling 
effigy. Here are other tombs of many 



Prussia. route 78. — konigsberg. trade in amber. 



409 



Teutonic Knights, and of Kant the 
metaphysician, author of the System of 
Pure Reason, as it is called, who died 
here in 1 804. The house in which he 
lived still exists in the Princessin 
Strasse ; it is now a coffee-house. 

The University, founded 1544, hy the 
Margrave Albert, and called the Alber- 
tina f has about 450 students, and a 
Library of 60,000 volumes deposited in 
one of the towers of the Cathedral. 
It contains several MSS. of Luther, 
a letter from him to his wife Catherine 
a Bora, and the safe-conduct given to 
him by the Empr. Charles V. to enable 
him to travel to Worms. A bust of 
Kant, by Schadow, is placed in the 
Academic Hall. Konigsberg is the see of 
the first Protestant Prussian Archb. 

The Schloss- Teich is a pretty sheet of 
water, surrounded by gardens, near the 
Palace. A bridge leads over it to the 
Konigs- Garten, where a statue of the 
late King Frederick William III. by 
Kiss is to be set up. 

After the fatal battle of Jena the 
Prussian royal family escaped to this 
place ; and, on the approach of the 
French, were driven to take refuge in 
Memel. 

The Observatory obtained renown 
under the direction of the late Prof. 
Bessel. 

A British Consul resides here. The 
chief journals of Europe are to be found 
at the Borsenhalle. 

The river Pregel, on which Konigs- 
berg is built, is not sufficiently deep to 
admit large vessels, which, therefore, 
unload at Pillau, the seaport of Konigs- 
berg, a flourishing little town of 4000 
inhab., on the Baltic, at the entrance 
of the saltwater lake called Frische 
Haff. The trade of Konigsberg consists 
of corn, for receiving which there are 
vast ranges of warehouses, hemp, flax, 
linseed, tallow, bristles, wax, &c. ; but 
it has fallen off since the end of the last 
cent., when it had reached the height 
of prosperity. There is a considerable 
fishery of sturgeon at Pillau. An ex- 
tensive trade in amber was formerly 
carried on at Konigsberg ; there were 
at one time 70 amber turners in the 
town. That substance is still one of 
its exports ; the chief consumption of 
[N. g.] 



it being in the Levant, where it is sold 
for pipe mouth-pieces. Amber is found 
all along the coast of East and West 
Prussia. A large quantity is obtained 
from the sea, which, after high winds, 
especially those blowing from the N., 
throws up a vast accumulation of sea- 
weed. The amber-fishers stationed on 
the shore wait till the floating sea- weed 
approaches near to it. They then send 
in their people up to their necks in 
water, provided with nets, by which 
they draw the weeds to land. The 
amber is found adhering to, or en- 
tangled in them, and is immediately 
collected and sorted by women and 
children. In one instance an attempt 
was made to employ divers to collect 
it from the bottom, but this failed. 
Much amber is obtained by digging up 
the soil even at a considerable distance 
from the sea. It usually occurs near 
the surface, but in some instances shafts 
have been successfully sunk. The spots 
where it has been found in greatest 
quantity are Gross Hubenicken, War- 
nicken, and Griinhof. The trade in 
amber was first appropriated by the 
Grand Masters of the Teutonic Order, 
who often paid the entire expenses of 
their court out of the revenue derived 
from this source. It afterwards be- 
came a royal monopoly, and was 
guarded in early times by laws of the 
utmost severity. Watchmen were sta- 
tioned all along the coast, and the pea- 
sant who concealed or attempted to 
dispose of any pieces he had found was 
condemned to be hung up to the nearest 
tree. Afterwards a range of gallows 
was set up on the shore in terrorem. 
Since the commencement of the present 
cent, the government has let out the 
right of collecting amber to private 
contractors for 10,000 dollars yearly; 
and though these rigorous enactments 
are now modified, a person who retains 
a piece of amber found accidentally is 
liable to be punished for theft. The 
inhabitants of Konigsberg are allowed to 
bathe only at one particular spot, and 
cannot wander along the sands without 
subjecting themselves to be searched 
by the strand riders set to watch. 

Steamers daily to Pillau and Elbing, 
— to Danzig. 

T 



410 E. 19. KONIGSB. TO MEMEL. 80. STETTIN TO DANZIG. Sect. VI. 



ROUTE 79. 

KONIGSBERG TO MEMEL BY TILSIT. 

29| Pruss. m.= 137 Eng. m. 

Personenpost daily to Tilsit, to which, 
place the road is macadamised. There 
is a second and more direct road to 
Memel along the Strand, a narrow 
tongue of sand "between the Baltic and 
the Kurische Haff; hut, as it is very 
ill kept, and not provided with post- 
horses, it is little used. " It was for- 
merly the most frequented, and, were 
it not insufferably tedious, with an 
awkward ferry across the port of Memel 
at the end, would be worth travelling 
for its singularity. There are 3 posts 
hetween Konigsherg and Memel on the 
tongue of sand. As it is impossible to 
make a firm road, the carriage must he 
driven with one wheel almost in the 
sea, and it requires 1 or 2 additional 
horses. The Nehrung, as the sand- 
hank is called, is like the Dunes of 
Holland, hut it seems difficult to con- 
ceive that such broad, high, and steep 
hills can he all drift sand. The name 
Kurische Haff is derived from the Kurs, 
inhahitants of the- neighbouring Cour- 
land. The traveller ohliged to walk 
hy the side of his carriage will have 
plenty of time to seek for amher." — 
F.S. 

2 1 Pogauen. 

2i Tapiau, a town of 3000 inhah. 
The castle, built, hy the Teutonic 
Knights, is now a poor-house. 

2| Taplaken. 

3 Mehlawischken. 

2\ Kelmienen. 

2£ Tilsit (Cronopolis). — Inns: Prinz 
"Wilhelm ; H. de Russie. A town of 
12,000 inhah., named from the Tilse, a 
small stream which falls into the 
Memel, here crossed hy a hridge of 
hoats 1150 ft. long. Upon a raft, 
moored a little helow it, in the middle 
of the river, Napoleon, the Empr. 
Alexander of Russia, and the King of 
Prussia met, July 9, 1807, to sign the 
treaty of Tilsit, by which half the ter- 
ritory of Prussia was severed from her. 

The new road from Berlin to St. 
Petersburg avoids Memel altogether, 
nnd stretches across at once hy Tau- 
roggen to Mittau and Riga, thus sav- 



ing a distance of 14 Pruss. m. — From 
Tilsit to Memel the road is had. 

3^ Szameitkehmen. 

2f Werdenherg. 

If Norkaiten. 

2% Prokuls. 

3 Memel. — Inns : H. de Russie ; 
Sonne. This is the most northern 
town of Prussia. It lies at the entrance 
of the Kurische Haff, and has 13,000 
inhah. It is the central point of the 
Baltic timher trade, and exports also a 
vast quantity of raw hides. A British 
Consul resides here. 

ROUTE 80. 

STETTIN TO DANZIG BY BROMBERG. 
RAILWAY. 

Trains from Stettin to Bromherg in 
8 h. Schnellpost daily thenceto Danzig 
23 Pruss. m. = 107 A Eng. m. in 20f h. 

The Railway is carried from Stettin 
along the shore of the lake of Damm, 
to Alt Damm, and by the shore of the 
Madue lake. 

Stargard Stat. [Inn, .) This is 

the principal town of Farther Pome- 
rania, pop. 11,000, on the navigahle 
Ihna, surrounded hy perfect ramparts 
and watchtowers, furnished with gates. 
The Marienkirche (1740-50), a fine 
Gothic building, a work of the Templars, 
simple in plan, is worth study. The 
Rathhaus (16th cent.) deserves notice. 

Dolitz Stat. 

Arnswalde Stat, hy a chain of small 
meres or lakes, to 

August walde Stat. 

Woldenberg Stat. (Rte. 77.) From 
this town 3 Railways diverge — to Posen 
(Rte. 806.), to Bromherg, and to Stettin. 
The line to Bromherg, opened 1851, turns 
1. out of that to Posen, a little short of 
"Wronke Stat., and nearly folloAvs the 
direction of the old post-roadhy Filehne, 
Schonlanke. 

2| Schneidemuhl. — Inn, Goldencr 
Lowe. A town of 3000 inhah. 

2^ Grabowo. 

2J Wirsitz. 

34 Nakel. — Inn, the Post. A town 
of 2000 inhah. 

4 Bromherg Stat. — Inns : H. Moritz ; 
H. de Berlin, in the Posener Yor- 
stadt. A town of 8000 inhah., on the 



Prussia. r. 80a. 80S. — Berlin to posen and stettin. 



411 



Brahe. The canal which passes this 
town was made by Frederick the Great, 
to open a communication between the 
Vistula and the Oder. 

Schnellpost daily to Danzig in 20f 
h. The road runs along the 1. bank 
of the Vistula, generally within view of 
it, and is macadamised. 

3 ~ Niewiesczyn. 

2| Schwetz. On the rt. bank of the 
Vistula lies Culm, a town of 5600 
inhab. Truffles abound here. 

2~ Gruppe. On the rt. bank lies 
the strong fortress of Graudenz, with 
9000 inhab. It was not yielded up to 
the French. 

3 Neuenburg. A road leads from 
this across the river to Marienburg. 

3± Mewe. 

4 Dirschau (pp. 405, 407). 
4| Danzig (p. 405, Rte. 77). 

ROUTE 80 a. 

BERLIN TO POSEN. 

33f Pruss. m. = about 163 Eng. m. 
An excellent chaussee. The posting 
well conducted. Schnellpost daily in 
27 hours. 

11^- Kiistrin. Thus far along the 
Danzig road, Route 77. 

2 1 Limritz. 

2§ "Waldowstrenk. 

2f Schwerin, a small but good sleep- 
ing place. 

4~ Kaehme. 

3 Pinne. 

3± Gay. 

3 Posen {Inns : H. de Vienne, good 
and reasonable; H. de Saxe), the 
capital of the province, is a cheerful 
town of 42,000 inhab., including 12,000 
Protestants and 10,000 Jews, situated 
on the river Warte. It is a strong- 
fortress on the frontier of Russia. Very 
interesting and picturesque fortifica- 
tions are in progress of construction 
here. The system adopted differs from 
that used at Coblenz, and is attributed 
to Col. Breza, of the Prussian En- 
gineers. 

The Ch. of St. Stanislaus is a fine 
building in the Italian style. The 
Gothic Bom is distinguished by the 
simplicity of its architecture. The 
Golden Chapel has been painted and 
gilt in the Byzantine style at Count 



Eduard Raczinsky's expense. Two 
bronze statues of the first Kings of 
Poland, by Rauch, in it merit notice. 
Here are examples of engraved brasses 
on monuments. The Rathhaus is a 
Gothic building, 1512-1520, and above 
it rises the loftiest tower in the town. 
A considerable wool fair is held here in 
June. The former Eaczinsky Palace, 
in theWilhelmplatz, has been presented 
by the Count to the town, and now 
contains the Public Library. 

Posen lies on the direct road from 
Berlin to Warsaw, but for about 40 
m. to the Russian frontier there is no 
chaussee but a deep sand. 

A good road leads from Posen to 
Breslau, 28 Pruss. m., by 

3 Stenszweo. 

3 Kosten. 

If Schmiegel. 

3^ Lissa. 

2| Fraustadt. 

3^ Glogau. A branch railway hence 
to the Frankfurt and Breslau line. See 
Rte. 81. 

2| Polkwitz. 

2 Liiben. m 

3 Liegnitz Stat, on the Berlin and 
Breslau Railway. For the route hence 
to 

Breslau, see Rte. 81. 

ROUTE 80 b. 

POSEN TO STETTIN. RAILWAY. 

26 Germ, m. = 121-^ Eng. m., in 
about 6 hours. 

Posen (Route 80 a). 

Samter Stat. 

Wronke Stat. The railway here 
crosses the river "Warte. 

Mialla Stat. The railway crosses 
the Netze before reaching 

Drage Stat. 

Woldenberg Stat., on the road from 
Berlin to Danzig. Rte. 77. 

See Rte. 80. For the Railway from 
"Woldenberg to 

Stettin, see Rte. 75. 

ROUTE 81. 

BERLIN TO FRANKFURT ON THE ODER 
AND BRESLAU. — RAILWAY. 

47 £ Pruss. m. === 222 Eng. m. Trains 
to Frankfurt in 2^ h. : to Breslau in 
11 h. 

T 2 



412 



ROUTE 81. — BERLIN TO FRANKFURT. 



Sect. VI. 



Terminus in Berlin, near the Stra- 
lauer Platz. 

1 % Kopenik Stat, on an island in 
the Spree. The Schloss was, about 1830, 
used as a prison for riotous students. 
The line now skirts the lake called 
Miiggelsee. 

If Erkner Stat. ; lime- works near 
this. 

3 Fiirstenwalde Stat. The Marien- 
hirche, a brick church of the 14th cent., 
injured by fire, and a modern roof, is 
worth notice. It has a beautiful Go- 
thic Sacramentshauschen (date 1510) of 
sandstone ; monuments of several bishops 
— part stone, part brass — before the 
altar. Near Bosengarten the line 
crosses the watershed between Elbe 
and Oder. 

2 Briesen Stat. 

2 j Frankfurt on the Oder Stat. — 
Inns : Kaiser von Bussland, near the 
Bahnhof ; Adler ; Deutsches Haus. A 
city of 26,000 inhab., no longer forti- 
fied. A bridge of wood, loaded with 
heavy stones to prevent its being washed 
away by floods, connects the old town 
►on the 1. bank of the Oder with the 
suburb on the rt. bank. 

The prosperity of the town arises 
from its situation upon the great 
Silesian highway, and upon a navi- 
gable river communicating by canals 
with the Vistula and the Elbe, which 
combine in causing the greater part 
of the manufactures of Silesia to pass 
through it ; and from three consider- 
able Fairs held here annually. It is 
far inferior, however, in commercial 
activity, to its namesake on the Maine. 
The University was transferred to 
Breslau in 1810. The chief buildings 
are the Oberkirche, or Ch. of St. Mary, 
a brick building of the middle of the 
13th cent. It has a splendid high 
altar of carved woodwork, richly gilt, 
with 8 paintings. The stained glass 
windows, a 7-branched candlestick 12 ft. 
high, with bas-reliefs of the 14th cent., 
and a font also with bas-reliefs, deserve 
notice. The Rathhaus, 1607. A monu- 
ment has been erected, beyond the 
bridge, to Prince Leopld of Brunswick, 
who was drowned here in 1785, while 
attempting to rescue an unfortunate 
family from an inundation of the Oder. 



The battle of Kunersdorf, one of the 
most memorable of the Seven Years' 
War, in which Frederick the Great 
encountered the united forces of Aus- 
tria and Russia, amounting to 80,000 
men, and, though worsted, did not 
sustain a serious defeat, was fought 
within 3 m. N.E. of the town, in 1759. 
The poet Kleist died at Frankfurt of a 
wound received in that engagement. 
A monument has been set up to his 
memory. 

1 Krebsjauche Stat. 

1 Furstenberg Stat. 

1 Neuzelle Stat. 

21 Guben Stat. A town of 8000 
inhab., on the river Neisse, whose 
banks are here planted with vines. 

1^ Starzeddel Stat. 

1^ Sommerfeld Stat. 

3 Sorau Stat. A town of 5000 
inhab., in a sandy plain. Manufacture 
of wax candles. A road leads from 
here W. to Muskau, Ete. 82. 

1 Hansdorf Stat. [A branch rail- 
way runs from this to Glogau, dis- 
tance 9 Germ, m., by 

2 Sagan Stat. Inn, Eitter St. Georg. 
A town of 5500 inhab., on the Bober. 
The Chateau was begun by Wallen- 
stein ; attached to it is a fine garden 
and park. It now belongs to the 
Prince of Hohenzollem-Hechingen. 

2 Sprottau Stat. (Inn, Deutsches 
Haus), a town of 3000 inhab. Beyond, 
the road runs not far from the Bober. 
Gloomy fir- woods, rarely enlivened by 
a woodman's hut, a pitch oven, or an 
iron forge, spread themselves over the 
district. 

3 Quariz Stat. 

2 Glogau Stat. — Inns : Deutsches 
Haus ; Schwarzer Adler. A fortress of 
the 2nd rank on the 1. bank of the Oder, 
12,000 inhab. The Dom upon an 
island dates from 1120.] 

1 Halbau Stat. 
l^r Eausche Stat. 
1^ Kohlfurt Stat. Here the railway 

is joined by that from Dresden. 

2^ Siegersdorf Stat. The Queis is 
crossed, and afterwards the Bober, on a 
Viaduct 1550 ft. long, 76 ft. high. 

2 Bunzlau Stat. — Inns: Kron Prinz ; 
Deutsches Haus. A small well-built 
town, of 5000 inhab., on the Bober, 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 81. — LIEGNLTZ. LISSA. BRESLAU. 



413 



situated on the verge of the most pic- 
turesque as well as industrious district 
of Silesia, which extends as far as the 
mountains. In the market-place is an 
Iron Obelisk, hy Schinkel and G. Scha- 
dow, to the memory of the Russian 
General Kutusoif, who died here, 28th 
April, 1813. The father of German 
poetry, Opitz, was horn in a house in 
the Ring, No. 66. A hrown pottery is 
made here. About 2 m. off lies the 
Moravian colony of Gnaderiberg. 

3f Hainau Stat. 

2-j Liegnitz Stat. — Inns: Rauten- 
kranz, good; Schwarzer Adler. This 
town, of 13,000 inhab., is handsomely 
built, and prettily placed on the junc- 
tion of the Katzbach and Schwarz- 
wasser. The Schloss, though called 
old, was nearly rebuilt, after a fire 
which destroyed great part of it, in 
1834. In the Fiirstencapelle, which is 
poor, are the monuments of the Piast 
Dukes : the family became extinct 1 675, 
after having given 24 kings to Poland, 
and 123 dukes to Liegnitz, dating 
from 775. The building of the Bitter 
Academie, an institution for the educa- 
tion of the sons of Silesian nobles, is 
handsome. The New Cemetery for 
Protestants and Catholics, outside the 
town, on the rt. of the road to Breslau, 
should be visited. 

The Katzbach, though a small 
stream, is memorable in history from 
the battle named after it, gained over 
the French in 1813 by Blucher, who 
received, as a reward for his services, 
the title of Prince of Wahlstatt (Battle- 
field) from a small village of that name, 
with a convent, now suppressed, between 
S. of Liegnitz and Jauer. It had rained 
for four days in succession previous to 
the battle, and continued to rain while 
it lasted, so that powder was useless ; 
and the victory was gained by the 
bayonet and the butt-end of the musket ; 
102 French cannon were taken. The 
fiercest part of the battle raged between 
"Wahlstatt and Eichholz, near which a 
monument has been erected by the 
King of Prussia. The convent of 
Wahlstatt Avas built to commemorate 
the triumph of the Christian chivalry 
of Europe over the barbarous hordes 
©f Asia, in a great battle, fought near 



the same spot in 1241, between the 
Duke of Silesia and the army of the 
Mongul Tartars. On quitting Liegnitz 
Stat, the Katzbach is crossed. 

1^ Spittelndorf Stat. 

1^ Maltsch Stat. The railway here 
approaches the Oder. 

1 Neumarkt Stat. — Inns : Die Hoff- 
nung ; Hohes Haus. A town of 3000 
inhab. The Zobten mountain is vi- 
sible. 

1^ Nimkau Stat. 

1-5 Lissa Stat. After the famous 
battle of Lissa (Leuthen), 5th Dec. 
1757, in which Frederick the Great, 
with 30,000 men, defeated the Aus- 
trian army of 90,000, he unexpectedly 
rode on to the castle of Lissa, a small 
village on the approach to Breslau, 
which still remained in the hands of the 
Austrians. A party of Austrian officers 
were not a little surprised when their 
conqueror entered the room where they 
were assembled, modestly inquiring, 
" Have you any room for me here, 
gentlemen ?" 

1^ Breslau Stat, in the Schweidnitz 
suburb. — Inns : Goldene Gans (Golden 
Goose), best, cheap, and good ; Hotel 
de Silesie ; Drei Berge ; the White 
Eagle. Breslau, a fine flourishing 
town, is the capital of Silesia, and the 
2nd city in Prussia in point of popu- 
lation, having 160,000 inhab. (30,000 
Roman Catholics, 6000 Jews). It is 
built on both banks of the Oder, which 
is crossed by an iron bridge. The for- 
tifications were partly demolished by 
the French in 1806-7, and since then 
have been levelled, and converted into 
Boulevards for the recreation of the 
inhabitants. They have been tastefully 
planted, and laid out in gardens and 
pleasure gronnds ; the bastions con- 
verted into terraces, and the ditch into 
an ornamental sheet of water ; so that 
the whole forms a delightful belt of 
verdure, separating the old town from 
the suburbs. From the Sand and Tas- 
chen Basteien the town is best seen ; 
and from the Ziegel Bastei there is a 
good view of the Oder, which, though 
rarely picturesque below Breslau, here 
assumes a pleasing character. 

Breslau is interesting to passing tra- 
vellers, not only as a commercial town 



414 



ROUTE 81. BRESLAU. CHURCHES. MUSEUM. Sect. VL 



— bustling, prosperous, and wealthy 
— but also on account of various ob- 
jects of art and antiquity contained 
in it. 

The Churches, divided between Pro- 
testants and Catholics, " are exceed- 
ingly interesting, from, the number of 
mural monuments and other works in 
alto-rilievo, which decorate their porches 
and exterior walls. These sculptures 
are of the finest style of Nuremberg 
art. The Cathedral of St. John, built 
1170, stands upon the Dom Insel. It 
is exceedingly curious for its quaint 
and not ungraceful architecture of red 
brick." In the Lady Chapel, which 
has a square end, is the tomb of the 
founder, and some fine iron- work and 
brasses. The bronze relief of Bp. 
Johann von Breslau (1496) is by Peter 
Vischer. The Kreutzkirche is built 
upon a more ancient church, and this 
substructure is particularly curious. 
The monument of Duke Henry IV., 
( its founder (1290), with his effigy of 
terra-cotta, supported by angels and 
priests, is curious. There is a good 
view of the town from the top of the 
tower. St. Elizabeth's Ch. possesses 
the highest tower in Prussia (364 ft. 
high). It is remarkable for curious 
monuments of all sorts, pictures, 
enamels, altars, sculpture, &c. It is 
not common to see a Protestant church 
so well furnished. The Ch. of Our 
Lady on the Sand has aisles higher 
than the nave, vaulting alternate : it is 
of good Gothic, 1330-1336. 

In the large square, called Grosse 
Ring, stands the antique Rathhaus, a 
large and quaint structure, very, re- 
markable for its architecture within and 
without; built, it is supposed, at the 
beginning of the 14th cent., by King 
John of Bohemia. It is decorated with 
singular sculptures, in one of which the 
Devil is wheeling his grandmother in 
a barrow. In the apartment called 
Furstensaal the allegiance of the states 
of Silesia was tendered to its princes, 
and among them to Frederick the 
Great. Behind the Bathhaus is an 
equestrian statue of Frederick the 
Great, by Kiss, erected 1847. The 
Government House, formerly the Palace 
of Count Hatzfeld, is a fine building ; 



the Palace (Schloss) scarce deserves the 
name. 

The finest streets are the Schmiede- 
briicke, the Albrechts and Friedrich- 
Wilhelms Strassen. The Square, 
named after Blucher, is ornamented 
with a colossal bronze statue of him, 
by Bauch. The Tauenziens Platz 
bears a statue of the general of that 
name, the brave defender of Breslau 
against the Austrians, under Loudon, 
1760. 

The University, transferred hither 
from Frankfurt on the Oder in 1811, 
numbers about 700 students. The 
building, originally an Imperial palace, 
and afterwards a Jesuits' college, con- 
tains one very fine apartment called 
Aula Leopoldina. Connected with the 
University are the following collec- 
tions : — 

A Museum of Natural History ; the 
Central Library of 300,000 volumes, 
open daily from 9 to 12; the Cabinet 
of Antiquities — the larger portion are 
German and Slavonic ; the Picture 
Gallery, made up of 700 paintings, 
chiefly trash. The Botanic Garden is 
rich, and well looked after. 

The Theatre here is not good. 

It is not surprising that Breslau, 
situated in the centre of the most pro- 
ductive manufacturing province of the 
Prussian dominions, concentrating also 
the trade of a large portion of Poland 
and Bussia, by means of the advan- 
tages of land, and water carriage, which 
it possesses in the greatest perfection, 
should enjoy extensive and increasing 
prosperity. The articles of commerce 
are various and important. Corn, 
metals of many sorts from the Silesian 
mines, cloths, linen, timber, and fire- 
wood are the principal. There are 
nearly 100 distilleries in the town. In 
addition to this, Breslau is the first 
market for wool on the continent. 
Wool-fairs are held here twice a-year, 
June and October. 

In March 1813 the youth of Prussia 
here rallied round their ldng ; and here 
began that patriotic resistance to the 
French which led to the liberation of 
their country, and to the occupation of 
Paris. Breslau is a city of Slavonic 
origin, having been occupied by the 



Prussia. route 82. — Dresden to breslau. bautzen. 



415 



Poles and Bohemians alternately for 800 
years. When the Silesian dukes died 
out it was transferred to Austria, from 
whom it was taken by Frederick the 
Great, 1742. Poles are very numerous, 
and their language so prevalent that 
many of the shop-boards are inscribed 
with it. Silesia has a considerable 
Slavonic population. 

Railroads — to Freiburg and Schweid- 
nitz, 7f Germ. m. (Rte. 84) — to Berlin 
— to Cracow (Rte. 85a) — to Ratibor 
and Vienna (Bte. 856). 

18 m. E. of Breslau is Oels, chief 
town of the mediatised principality of 
Brunswick-Oels, with 6000 inhab., and 
a chateau. 

At the village of Krieblowitz, 14 m. 
from Breslau, Marshal Blucher died, 
in 1819. (See Rte. 84, p. 421.) 

ROUTE 82. 

DRESDEN TO BRESLAU. — RAILWAY. 

35 Pruss. m. = 163^ Eng. m. Trains 
to Gorlitz in 3, to Breslau in 8 h. To 
the Saxon frontier the country is very 
picturesque. 

Radeberg Stat. Near here the rail- 
way crosses the Roder. 

5 Bischofswerda Stat. Inn, Engel. 

2f Bautzen (Budissin) Stat. {Inns ; 
Goldene Krone, comfortable ; Das 
Lamm, in the suburb), the capital of 
Upper Lusatia (Ober Lausitz) is a very 
picturesque town, surrounded by tur- 
retcd old walls, beautifully situated on 
the Spree, and has 12,000 inhab., who 
carry on nourishing manufactures of 
cloth and cotton. The parish Ch. of 
St. Peter is shared between Catholics 
and Protestants. The Estates of the 
province hold their meetings in the 
Stdndehaus. A vast modern - Gothic 
Rathhaus has been built. Close to the 
town lies the old castle of Ortenburg, 
formerly the residence of the Margraves 
of Meissen, ancestors of the Saxon 
Royal Family. Seidow, on the 1. bank 
of the Spree, is almost entirely inha- 
bited by Wends. In the neighbour- 
hood was fought the battle of Bautzen, 
May 1813, when Napoleon compelled 
the allies to retire, after dreadful 
slaughter on both sides, and very little 
advantage on his. On the following 



day, May 22, at the entrance of the 
village of Merkersdorf, near Reichen- 
bach, Duroc, the most faithful and 
attached friend perhaps that he ever 
had, was killed by a cannon-ball, at the 
close of a skirmish. After quitting 
Bautzen the valley of the Spree is 
crossed by the railway on a long bridge. 
About 1^ m. S. of Pommritz Stat, rises 
the steeple of Hochkirch, seen on the rt., 
marking the scene of one of the most 
bloody battles of the Seven Years' War. 
It was fought in 1746, by night. Marshal 
Keith, one of Frederick's best generals, 
by birth a Scotchman, who was killed 
in it, is buried within the church of the 
village; a monument was erected to 
him by his brother, the Earl Mareschal. 
About 30 m. N. of Bautzen is Muskav, 
once the seat of Prince Piickler-Muskau, 
who wrote a coxcombical book about 
England. The park is laid out in the 
English style, with considerable taste. 
Muskau is now the property of Prince 
Frederick of the Netherlands. 

2~ Lobau Stat. (Inn, Lamm, tole- 
rable) ; a town of 2500 inhab. In the 
ancient Rathhaus the deputies of the 
6 towns of Lusatia met, during 5 cent., 
from 1310 to 1814. Besides the Ger- 
man churches, there is a Wendic 
church here ; 50,000 of the inhab. of 
Lusatia are Wends (Vends) of Slavonic 
origin (see p. 400), differing from the 
Germans even in the present day in 
speech, dress, and manners. 

A Railway runs from Lobau by 
Herrnhut to Zittau. Length 3f Germ, 
m. Herrnhut lies about 6 Eng. m. S. 
of Lobau. (See Rte. 84a.) 

The first place within the frontier of 
Prussia is 

Reichenbach Stat. Inn, Schwan. 
A simple block of sandstone marked 
with the name Duroc, on the 1. of the 
high road, marks the grave of the friend 
of Napoleon, who left 1 000 francs to set 
up a monument to him. The ball 
which killed him was fired from a 
Russian battery. 

3£ Gorlitz Stat. (Tnns : Goldener 
Baum ; Brauncr Hirsch), a flourishing- 
little town, which belonged to Saxony 
previous to 1815, and is now capital of 
the Prussian province of Upper Lusatia. 
It is well situated on the slope of a hill , 



416 



EOUTE 83. — THE RIESENGEBIRGE. 



Sect. VI. 



at whose base flows the Neisse, and 
lias 20,000 inhab. It retains many 
marks of antiquity; its old gates 
surmounted by towers. Its houses, 
like the towns to the E. and those of 
Italy, are furnished with arcades. 
Much cloth and linen are made here. 
The Ch. of St. Peter and St. Paul (date 
1497) is one of the largest in Saxony, 
and has 5 aisles ; the windows of the 
N. side, as well as the triple altar end, are 
handsome. The subterranean chapel, 
hewn in the rock beneath, is curious. 
The Kreuzkirche, outside the town, on 
the road to Muskau, is a very curious 
representation of the buildings and lo- 
calities of the Holy Sepulchre, not 
comprehended in a church, but scattered 
about a field. It was built (1480-89) 
by a burgomaster of Gorlitz, who tra- 
velled to Jerusalem with an architect 
and a painter, to copy exactly the 
original. His portrait may be seen in 
the church, an elegant building. There 
is a curious house opposite the inn, 
covered with Scripture carvings. The 
picturesque towers about the town are 
best seen on the side of Lauban. 

About 3 m. off, in the valley of the 
Neisse, rises the picturesque hill of 
Landskrone, surmounted by basalt, and 
commanding a fine view. General von 
Winterfeldt, another favourite officer 
of Frederick the Great, fell in battle 
against the Austrians on the Holzberg, 
near Gorlitz : a monument marks the 
spot. 

[From Gorlitz an excursion may be 
made into Bohemia, to the Baths of 
Liebwerda, distant about 18 m. S.E., ro- 
mantically situated, and provided with 
good accommodation, though retired and 
not much frequented. The waters re- 
semble those of Spa. There are some 
beautiful valleys around it, and in the 
neighbourhood the convent of Haindorf, 
and the old Castle of Friedland, from 
which the celebrated "Wallenstein re- 
ceived his title of Duke, It was pre- 
sented to him, with its dependent estates, 
by the Emperor Ferdinand, as a com- 
pensation for the property he had sacri- 
ficed in his cause. It now belongs to 
the Count Clam Gallas, and still contains 
some relics of "Wallenstein, his portrait, 
and his sword, with collections of 



armour, pictures, &c. The Upper Castle 
was built by Wallenstein. The dun- 
geons beneath the thick round tower are 
horrible. Inn, am Schloss, good. 

The ascent of the Taj 'elf. elite, 3400 ft. 
high, may be made from Liebwerda, 
from which it is about 4 m. distant. 
14 m. S. of Friedland is Reichenberg 
(P- 423).] 

The Viaduct over the valley of the 
Neisse, near Gorlitz, 1 500 ft. long, resting 
on 30 piers, and raised 112 ft. above the 
river, is one of the finest works of rail- 
way engineering in N". Germany. 

Penzig Stat. 

3 \ Kohlfurth Stat. Here this railway 
joins that from Berlin to Breslau, and 
for the rest of the way see Ete. 81 
(p. 412). 

Breslau Terminus (p. 413). 

ROUTE 83. 

THE RIESENGEBIRGE.* 



AND LANDSHUT ; EXCURSION TO AD- 
ERSBACH. 

The range of mountains separating 
Silesia from Bohemia is called Rie- 
sengebirge (Giant Mountains). The 
chief of this chain is the Schneekoppe 
(Snow-head), the highest mountain in 
Germany N. of the Danube, being 
4983 ft. above the sea. The outline of 
the chain is rather swelling than bold, 
but within its valleys are scenes of great 
beauty, enhanced in the eyes of the 
Germans of the jN". by being contrasted 
with the wearisome flatness and mono- 
tony of their own country. It must be 
understood that the scenery of the Rie- 
sengebirge will bear no comparison with 
that of the Alps, either in elevation, 
grandeur, or beauty. Its beauties are 
limited to a pleasing variety of hill and 
dale, wood and water, rich verdure and 
fertility of soil, numerous towns and 
villages planted in romantic valleys by 
the sides of rivers, inhabited by an in- 
dustrious population and enlivened by 
prosperous manufactures. These fea- 

* Corrections and additional information re- 
specting the lliesengebirge are particularly 
requested by the editor from any travellers 
personally acquainted with that district. 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 83. — THE RIESENGEBIRGE. 



417 



turcs give to the country an agreeable 
aspect ; and, in conjunction with its 
Mineral Baths, render it annually the 
resort of a multitude of strangers. 

The best approaches to the Riesenge- 
birge are from Bunzlau, on the Berlin 
and Breslau railway, Rte. 81; or from 
Breslau by the railway to Freiburg, 
Bte. 84. 

The following are some of the most 
interesting points proceeding from W. 
to E., and passing from the Saxon and 
Prussian into the Austrian territory. 
The Moravian colony of Herrnhut (p. 
423), though not within the Riesenge- 
birge, lies at a short distance from their 
W. extremity. The Baths of Liebewer- 
<ia, and Wallenstein's castle of Fried- 
land, under the Tafelfichte (p. 416), one 
of the highest of the range of the Rie- 
sengebirge, may be visited by making 
short detours from the high road. 

The tour of the Riesengebirge pro- 
perly begins at Hirschberg and Warrn- 
brunn (see below), which are the most 
central points for making excursions, 
and the best head-quarters, as affording 
tolerable accommodation. Owing to 
the changeableness of the weather, the 
ascent of the Schneekoppe, which is usu- 
ally made from Hirschberg or Schmie- 
deberg, very often does not repay the 
trouble. The river Elbe rises from the 
S. base of this mountain at the head of 
a beautiful valley. The country be- 
tween Hirschberg, Schmiedeberg, and 
Landshut, is the Paradise of Silesia. 

No one should quit the Giant Moun- 
tains without exploring the Labyrinth 
of Adersbach (p. 420), the most singular 
spot in the district, but lying within the 
Bohemian frontier. It may be visited 
from Landshut or Waldenburg : the 
nearest towns to it are Liebau and 
Trautenau. Between Schmiedeberg and 
Breslau rises the Zobten, an isolated 
mountain, the advanced guard, as it 
were, of the Riesengebirge towards the 
N., commanding a very extensive view. 
(See p. 421.) 

The Riesengebirge are the theatre of 
the exploits of the mischievous spirit 
called Rubezalil, whose name is well 
translated into English by that of Num- 
ber Nip (i. e. turnip numbcrer). There 
is hardly a mountain or a glen in the 



country without its legend of this popu- 
lar demon. 

There are very good Inns at the towns 
of this district ; and in remote spots on 
the mountains the traveller, not over 
fastidious, may be tolerably well ac- 
commodated, without any luxury, in 
the buildings called Baude (Scot. Bothie), 
resembling somewhat the chalets of the 
Alps. 

Guides are indispensable. They are 
appointed by the local authorities in the 
Prussian territory, and receive 1 thaler 
a day, for which they carry the bag- 
gage. In Austria they are not licensed, 
nor is their charge fixed. Detailed in- 
formation respecting the most remark- 
able spots in the Riesengebirge is 
given in this and the following Routes. 

The traveller coming from Berlin or 
Dresden should proceed by the railways 
described in Rtes. 81 and 82, as far as 
the Bunzlau Stat. From thence an 
excellent macadamised road runs S. to 
Lowenberg. The country displays at 
every step increasing natural beauties, 
a dense population, and a fertile soil. 
A constant intermixture of wood and 
verdure, hill and dale, give a peculiar 
charm to the landscape. 

2^ Lowenberg. Inns : H. du Roi ; 
"Wcisses Ross. A town of 4000 inhab. 
on the high road from Dresden to Bres ■ 
lau, and in a beautiful situation. At 
Neuland, in the vicinity, are consider- 
able quarries of gypsum and of mill- 
stones. When about four-fifths of the 
stage are accomplished a slight emi- 
nence over which the road passes dis- 
plays to the view of the traveller the 
fertile and populous valley of Hirsch- 
berg, bounded by the distant range of 
the Giant Mountains, " a ravishing 
prospect in any country." The Schnee- 
koppe is seen rising in the centre. 

4 - | Hirschberg. Inns : In the town, 
Deutsches Haus, good ; Weisses Ross, 
outside the town and close to the Post ; 
Drei Bergc, good, but noisy. This, the 
principal town of the district, is beauti- 
fully situated at the foot of the moan- 
tain, at the junction of 2 small streams, 
the Bober and Zacken, 1000- ft. above 
the sea, and has about 7000 inhab. Its 
flourishing linen manufacture is reduced 
from what it was in the middle of the 

t3 



418 



ROUTE 83: — THE RIESENGEBIRGE. WARMBRUiSfN. Sect. VI. 



last cent., though a large quantity is 
still made here ; and this is considered 
the central point of this branch of in- 
dustry. It is an ancient town, still 
surrounded by a double line of walls. 
The market-place is surrounded by ar- 
cades like some of the Italian towns. 
The chief building is the very handsome 
and large Gothic Protestant Church, re- 
served for the reformed worship by 
Charles XII. of Sweden by a special 
article of the Treaty of Alt-Ranstadt. 
It has some curious monuments in its 
cemetery. 

The Kavalierberg, S. of the town, 
named from some strong works thrown 
up in the 7 Years' War, and a low fir- 
clad eminence called Mount Helicon, are 
2 agreeable places of resort in the neigh- 
bourhood. 

About 4 m. S. "W. from Hirschberg lies 
Warmbrunn. Inns: Schwarzer Adler, 
good ; H. de Prusse, good, extensive 
assortment of wines, among which some 
Hungarian wines are good ; Anker ; 
Schwarzes Eoss ; Das lange Haus, near 
the springs, contains good accommoda- 
tions. This is a pretty, retired, quiet 
watering-place, lying in one of the most 
romantic valleys of the Riesengebirge. 
The visitors usually amount to between 
2000 and 3000 annually. July and 
August are considered the height of the 
season. The company is not so aristo- 
cratic as that which frequents the baths 
of Teplitz and Carlsbad. Good Prussian 
society is to be found ; and the owner, 
Count SchafFgotsch, is strenuous in his 
efforts to improve the place, and is 
anxious that it should become more 
known to English travellers. The 
lukewarm sulphureous springs resemble 
those of Aix ; in temperature they vary 
from 97° to 99° Fah. They are consi- 
dered efficacious in cases of gout and 
rheumatism, &c, and owe their virtues 
to the presence of sulphur and alkaline 
salts : their odour is fetid and not agree- 
able. The principal Public Baths are 
Das Grafliche Bad (the Counf s bath), 
and the Propstei Bad (Prior's bath). 
They are capable of containing 30 or 40 
persons, and it is not uncommon to see 
them full of bathers of both sexes. In 
order to accommodate the great number 
of bathers they are divided into classes. 



The first class bathe first, paying 2 dol. 
a week ; the 2nd pay 1 th. 10 sg., and 
follow them ; and the 3rd, chiefly poor 
people, come last, and pay very little. 
In order to enter them, a ticket of ad- 
mittance must be obtained from the 
master of the ceremonies. There ai;e 
also private baths. The Russian Baths 
are the newest and best fitted up, and 
are provided with vapour baths in the 
Russian fashion. "Warmbrunn origin- 
ally belonged to the Convent of Giis- 
sau, but is now the property of Count 
Schaffgotsch. The building called 
Gallerie, or Gesellschaftshaus, comprises 
a ball or assembly room, and dining- 
room, where the best daily table-d'hote 
is to be found. The adjoining gardens 
and Park of Count Schaffgotsch, and 
the allee of poplars, afford agreeable 
walks to invalids and water-drinkers. 
Gaming of every sort is strictly forbid- 
den, under penalty of a heavy fine. 
There is a library of standard works 
open to the public in the Propstei- 
Gebaude, and a pretty little Theatre. 
Very beautiful glass of various colours, 
manufactured in Silesia, and numerous 
half-precious stones, found in the vici- 
nity, and cut by lapidaries on the spot, 
may be purchased here, and will serve 
as memorials of the Riesengebirge to 
friends at home. 

Warmbrunn is, from its centrical 
situation, the best point for making ex- 
cursions among the Riesengebirge. There 
are public conveyances many times daily 
in ^ hr. hence to Hirschberg. 

At Bruckenberg, on the way to the 
Schneekoppe, is an old Wooden Church 
of the 12th cent., which was purchased 
by the present king of Prussia 1844, and 
has been transported hither from Wang, 
near Drontheim, in Norway, bit by bit, 
and is a curious specimen of a style 
peculiar to Scandinavia, every part be- 
ing of timber, and is also worth visiting 
on account of its situation and view. 
The stone towers are new. 

The small river Zachen is remarkable 
for a phenomenon not satisfactorily ox- 
plained. At times its waters suddenly 
disappear and cease to flow for several 
hours, after which they again bm-st 
forth and assume their usual level. 

2-| m. up the valley of the Zacken, 



Prussia. ROUTE 83. — the riesestgebirge. schneekoppe. 



419 



above Warmbrunn, is Hermsdorf, a 
village with Inns, and a Chateau of 
Count Schaffgotsch, the head-quarters 
of the Guides to the Schneekoppe, &c. 
Immediately above Hermsdorf, on the 
summit of a wooded cave of granite, 
rise the stately ruins of the Castle of 
Kynast, founded 1292, burnt down 1657 
by lightning. It is perhaps the most 
agreeable excursion from Warmbrunn, 
and is accessible by a carriage road, 
which is beset by beggars offering 
stocks, stones, fruits, and flowers for sale. 
It is perched on a rock detached from 
the main body of the mountains, and its 
walls rise grandly from the brink of 
almost perpendicular precipices, so that 
it is accessible only on one side by a 
drawbridge. The view from its keep 
tower is very extensive and pleasing. 
In ancient times the daughter of a lord 
of this castle, named Kunigunde, who 
was as cold and hard-hearted as she 
was beautiful, made a vow to accept no 
one, as a lover, who should not previ- 
ously ride round the castle on the top 
of the outer wall. She had many 
suitors, but upon this announcement 
the greater number retired. A few 
made the attempt, and were dashed to 
pieces in the frightful abyss. The lady 
showed no signs of compunction or pity 
— she desired to remain single, and was 
glad to be relieved from the importuni- 
ties of so many lovers, all of whom were 
equally indifferent to her. At last a 
knight presented himself to try the 
perilous adventure, whose manly beauty 
and engaging manners interested her so 
much that she repented of her vow, 
and beheld him with fear and trembling 
mount the wall upon his steed. . To her 
great joy he performed the exploit in 
safety ; but, to her surprise, when she 
advanced to throw herself into his arms 
as her destined bridegroom, instead of a 
kiss he gave her a box on the ear and a 
smart reproof, and then, leaping on his 
steed, left her in shame and amaze- 
ment. It was the Landgrave Albert of 
Thuringia, a married man, who, wishing 
to avenge the death of a younger bro- 
ther, had previously practised his steed 
in this dangerous exercise. The story 
is the subject of a poem by Korner. 
The Schneekoppe (snow-head), or Rie- 



senkoppe, the highest summit of the Bie- 
sengebirge, 4983 ft. above the sea-level, 
may easily be ascended in 5 or 6 hrs. 
from Warmbrunn. The ascent, how- 
ever, from Schmiedeberg is shorter than 
from Warmbrunn, and the road is good. 
The traveller who makes the ascent 
should be prepared, if he intend to pass 
the night on the mountain, to sleep on 
hay, and he will act wisely in taking 
provisions with him, as the accommoda- 
tion of the baude is far from good, and 
not suitable for ladies. He should also 
be prepared for mist, rains, and the 
probability of not seeing the view in 
consequence. The road usually taken 
leads by Seidorf, 1 hr. 10 min. walk, 
where guides may be found, and chairs, 
asses, and mules are kept for hire ; 
thence to the Brod Baude, 1 hr. 5 min. ; 
thence to Briickenberg, 15 min. (see 
the Norwegian Church) ; and from 
it in 1 hr. 10 min. to the Hempelsbaudc, 
a humble inn or chalet (where very 
tolerable refreshment may be had), only 
20 min. walk from the summit. Those 
who choose to pass the night on the 
mountain, for the sake of seeing the sun 
rise, will find better accommodation in 
the Grenzbaudc (called also Bohmische 
Baude). Hiibner's affords the best ac- 
commodation. The Hungarian wine is 
good and cheap. The top of the moun- 
tain of granite, underlying gneiss and 
mica schist, is crowned by a small 
chapel, now converted into an Inn, 
standing on the frontier line of Austria 
and Prussia. The prospect is extensive 
when the state of the weather allows it 
to be visible. On the side of Silesia the 
slope is most abrupt, but the scenery is 
rich and populous. On the S., towards 
Bohemia, it is wild and descends more 
gradually in a series of terraces inter- 
sected by the rugged glen of the Biesen 
or Aupengrund, 2000 ft. below. Bres- 
lau, 45 m. off, is sometimes seen from 
hence, it is said. The want of water, 
however, is a great drawback in the 
landscape. In descending, the traveller 
may vary his walk by proceeding from 
the Hempelsbaude across the Bubezahl's 
(Number Nip's) skittle-ground, in 1^ 
hr., to the Grraber Steine, 5 min. walk 
from St. Anne's Chapel, where the fo- 
rester's house affords good refreshment, 



420 



ROUTE 83. — THE RIESENGEBIRGE. ADERSBACH. Sect. VI. 



and return thence to Warmbrunn in If 
hr. 

The sources of the Elbe are situated 
under the S. roots of the Schneekoppe, 
which lies right S. from Hirschberg. 
The Weisswasser is regarded as the 
proper source of the Elbe, and its foun- 
tain-head is a strong spring, which never 
fails, rising close to the Wiesenbaude, 
4380 ft. above the sea in the Weisse 
Wiese. Another stream from the val- 
ley, called the Nawarer Wiese, unites 
with it in the Elbegrund. These are 
troublesome to reach, surrounded by 
marshy ground; but the vale of the 
Elbe is very picturesque. The pedes- 
trian has the choice of descending from 
the Schneekoppe into Bohemia, and pro- 
ceeding at once to Adersbach and its 
wonderful rocks, S.E. by Klein Aupe 
to Schatzlar (about 4 hrs.), where the 
Burgomaster's inn is good, and near 
which the Bober rises from a well in 
the forest. Thence to Adersbach is a 
walk of 6 hrs., a beautiful and gratify- 
ing excursion. Or, if he prefer it, there 
are paths direct from the Schneekoppe 
to Schmiedeberg ; the time occupied in 
walking thither is about 5 hrs. 

The post-roadfrom Hirschberg thither 
passes near the mine of felspar, which 
supplies material for the Berlin china. 
Half way between Hirschberg and 
Schmiedeberg lies Schloss Erdmannsdorf 
(Inn, das Schweitze Haus), seat of the 
late General Gneisenau, now the pro- 
perty of the King of Prussia, who has 
recently given an asylum and allotted 
land here to about 400 Tyrolese Pro- 
testants, who were driven out of their 
native valley, the Zillerthal, on account 
of their faith, by the intolerance of the 
Romish priesthood. The houses form- 
ing the colony are built by the Tyrol- 
ese themselves in their own peculiar 
and picturesque architecture, but the 
colonists have the character of being 
lazy and dirty. The Church was built 
from a design of Schinkel. Here is a 
large Linen Mill moved by steam. Per- 
sons visiting Erdmannsdorf — and it is 
well worth visiting — will do well to do 
so from Warmbrunn and not from 
Hirschberg. The distance is nearly the 
same both ways — a walk of l-^ hr. — 
but the former road is very agreeable, 



passing through the pretty village of 
Stohnsdorf, while the latter is a dead 
flat and rather uninteresting. 

Fischbach is the beautiful seat of the 
Prince Wm. of Prussia, in a charming 
situation, about 4 m. E. of Erdmanns- 
dorf. Upon the neighbouring Marianne' s 
rock is a colossal lion (cross), of cast 
iron. Further on, near Schmiedeberg, 
about 1 m. to the rt. of the road, is the 
Ruheberg, a country-house of Prince 
Radzevil. 

2 Schmiedeberg. Inns : Schwarzes 
Ross, good ; Goldene Sterne ; Deutsches 
Haus. A manufacturing town, in a 
pleasant situation, with 3500 inhab., 
owing its prosperity chiefly to its ex- 
tensive iron furnaces, mines, &c, with 
a market-place surrounded by an ar- 
cade. This is a favourable point from 
which to ascend the Schneekoppe (see 
p. 419). 

The road hence to Landshut is the 
highest in Prussia practicable for car- 
riages, rising 2233 ft. It passes through 
a delightful country, and there are very 
fine views from near the summit, to- 
wards Schmiedeberg and the Schnee- 
koppe on one side, and towards Land- 
shut on the other. At the summit, to 
the northward, and within J hr. walk 
from the road, is the Eriesenstein, a 
group of rocks 2888 ft. above the sea 
level. The view is magnificent. 

2j Landshut. Inns : Schwarzer 
Rabe, good ; Drei Berge ; Goldener 
Lowe. Romantically situated at the 
foot of the Riesengebirge, on the Bober ; 
has 3500 inhab., considerable bleaching- 
grounds and manufactures of linen. The 
abolished convent of Giissau, with its 
ancient church and chapel, are worth 
seeing. Near this the Prussians re- 
ceived a severe defeat June 1760, and 
10,000 of them were made prisoners of 
war, with their General, Fouque, by the 
Austrians under Marshal Loudon. 

[ The Rock Labyrinth of Adersbach is 
situated within the frontier of Bohemia, 
about 19 m. from Landshut, 17 from 
Waldenburg, and 12 from Trautenau. 
The Prussian Custom-house, on the 
road to it, is at Liebau ; the Austrian 
at Konigshain. The road from Liebau 
is very bad, and only narrow axles can 
traverse it at all. 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 84. — THE RIESENGEBIRGE. 



421 



Adersbach. Inn, Traiteur Iiaus, 
good and clean, but small — delicious 
mountain trout may be had here. The 
Bocks of Adersbach are a wonderful as- 
semblage of masses of sandstone, ex- 
tending in all directions over a space 3 
m. broad and 6 or 8 long, separated into 
fragments of various sizes by openings, 
gulfs, and fissures. " They resemble 
those of the Heuscheuer (p. 424) and 
Saxon Switzerland, but far surpass them 
in size and number. You walk, as it 
were, in a narrow street, with immense 
smooth walls on each side of you, open- 
ing here and there into squares, whence 
is obtained a view of the countless num- 
ber of giant rocks which surround you 
on all sides. This locality does not 
present the extraordinary natural figures 
existing at the Heuscheuer : the won- 
der of Adersbach consists in the vast 
size and number of rocks here clustered 
together ; and it is very annoying to 
have the attention diverted every mo- 
ment from the contemplation of them 
by the pertinacity with which the guide 
is determined to acquaint you with the 
names of various rocks, none of which 
bear the least resemblance to the ob- 
jects after which they are called, ex- 
cept, perhaps, the ' Burgomaster,' which 
is curious." — T. E. R. The entrance 
to the rocks is closed by a door, which 
is opened on payment of 2-^ Sgr., and 
the guide receives from a party 7 or 8 
Sgr. The path is in places so narrow 
that you can walk only in Indian file. 
A rivulet, clear as silver, traverses the 
intricacies of the labyrinth, and at the 
end, or spot where travellers usually 
turn back (after an hour's wait), it 
forms a pretty waterfall, which plays 
by opening a sluice (!). Near the en- 
trance is a fine echo. By moonlight 
the aspect of the rocks is highly roman- 
tic. In number the rocks amount to 
many thousands, and often rise to a 
height of more than 200 ft., the highest 
being 280 ft. So numerous and intri- 
cate are the passages among them that 
they form a complete labyrinth, among 
which there is danger of losing one's 
way without a guide. There can be 
little doubt that the whole was at one 
time a continuous and solid stratum of 
sandstone, and that it owes its present 



form to the passage over it of floods or 
currents of running water, which, hav- 
ing found their way into the crevices 
and clefts, have gradually worn down 
the softer parts into gutters and chan- 
nels. The rocks, like those of the Saxon 
Switzerland, belong to the formation 
called by the Germans Quadersandstein, 
corresponding with the green sand of 
England. Adersbach is certainly a 
curiosity without parallel in Europe, 
and well deserves to be visited.] 

Landshut is on the road between 
Breslau and Prague, described in Etc. 
84. 

EOUTE 84. 

THE RIESENGEBIRGE. 

BRESLAU TO SCHWEIDNITZ, LANDSHUT, 
ADERSBACH, AND BY TRAUTENAU TO 
PRAGUE IN BOHEMIA. 

Railroad from Breslau to Freiburg, 
7f Germ. m. = 35^ Eng. m. long, with 
a branch to Schweidnitz. Trains in 2 
hrs. Schnellpost daily from Freiburg. 
The road is macadamised. 

Kanth Stat. 

14 m. from Breslau, and a few m. to 
the rt. of the road, is Kriblowitz, where 
Marshal Blucher lived and died (1819). 
He is buried in the open air by the 
roadside, under the shade of 3 lime-trees, 
as yet without a monument. E. is seen 
the Zobtenberg, an isolated mountain, 
rising out of the plain, and commanding 
a wide prospect over Silesia. 

Ingramsdorf Stat. 

Metkau Stat. A personenpost runs 
daily from the Stat, to Bosenthal (a 
good and moderate Inn), near Goskau, 
about 15 m. off, at the foot of the Zob- 
tenberg, the Bigi of Silesia, whose top 
may be reached in 1^ hr. walk : it is 
covered with shattered blocks of granite. 
The view commands the Moravian and 
Silesian mountains, the Schneeberg, the 
Heuscheur, fortress of Silbcrberg, Rie- 
senkoppe, and a more picturesque, 
though not so extensive a panorama as 
that from the Schncekoppe. 

Konigszelt Stat. Here is the junc- 
tion of the branch Railway which runs 
to 

Schweidnitz [Inns : Krone ; Scepter), 
a beautifully situated town on the "Weis- 



422 



ROUTE 84. — THE RIESENGEBIRGE. 



Sect, VI. 



tritz, with 10,000 inhab. It was for- 
merly a strong fortress, but the greater 
part of its works were demolished by 
the French in 1806. The parish Ch., 
a Gothic building (date 1330), is sur- 
mounted by a tower 320 ft. high. The 
Castle, formerly the residence of the 
Piast Dukes, has now become a poor- 
house. 

Freiburg Stat. (Inn : Bother Hirsch), 
a town of 2000 inhab., having a large 
steam flax-spinning mill. Omnibus 
runs from the stat. to Fiirstenstein and 
Salzbrunn. The Fiirstenstein Grand 
or Glen is a very picturesque narrow 
rocky valley, hemmed in by wooded cliffs 
300 ft. high, traversed by the Hollen- 
bach, and not unlike the scenery of the 
Bosstrappe in the Harz. A winding- 
path leads up to the Alte Burg, an imi- 
tation castle built at the beginning of 
the present century, containing some 
old tapestry, armour, and family por- 
traits. Ascending the valley, you come 
to the modern Schloss Fiirstenstein, seat 
of Count Hochberg, surrounded by 
gardens and pleasure-grounds. 

9 m. N. is the battle-field of Striegau, 
gained by Frederick the Great in 1745 ; 
in the vicinity was his fortified camp 
of Bunzelwitz. 

5 m. from Freibxu-g are the Baths of 
Salzbrunn [Inns ; Kursaal ; Krone ; 
Sonne), a long village, frequented on 
account of its alkalo-saline spring, but 
dull, and scarcely worth stopping at. 

Waldenburg, 6 m. S. of Freiberg, is 
a good station for visiting the rocks of 
Adersbach, about 17 m. distant. A coach 
and pair (zweispanner) from Salzbrunn 
and back costs 4 dollars — to go and 
return — time 4 h. to and 4 h. back. It 
is a hilly road, passing 1. the castle of 
Neuhaus, ruined 1418 in the Hussite war. 
Beyond Friedland the road to Adersbach 
'turns 1. W., and the Bohemian frontier 
is crossed. The Austrian customhouse 
is at Merkelsdorf. Passports are not 
required. Biegel's Inn at Merkelsdorf 
is fair and cheap ; fine trout and good 
Hungarian wine. (See p. 421.) 

Eilwagen to Hirschberg daily, by 
Landshut, 1\ Germ. m. The road 
from Freiburg to Landshut is hilly. 

\\ Beichenau. 

2 Landshut, p. 420. The Austrian 



and Prussian frontier is crossed beyond 
Liebau, where the Prussian custom- 
house stands ; the Austrian custom- 
house is at Konigshain. 

4 Trautenau. — Inn : Weisses Boss, 
best, but not very good. The first 
town in the Austrian territory ; pop. 
2400. Much linen is made here. 
Adersbach is about 12 m. off, in a direct 
line (p. 421). 

2 Arnau (or Nieder Oels) has 2300 
inhab., chiefly weavers. It lies on the 
Flbe, which takes its rise about 25 m, 
N. of this (p. 420), among the roots 
of the Schneekoppe. A pleasant ex- 
cursion may be made to the source, fol- 
lowing its banks, and passing the pretty 
town of Hohenelbe (Inn : Schwarzer 
Adler, middling), and the cascades of 
Elbfall and Weisswasser. 

2 JSTeu Paka ; the Post. 

2 Gitschin. — Inn ; Goldener Lowe. 
The castle was built by Wallenstein, 
1610. 

2 Sobotka. 

3 Jung-Bunzlau. This town of 5000 
inhab., on the Iser, manufactures much 
printed cotton. Tycho Brahe died, 
1601, in the small town of JS"eu Bena- 
tek, not far from 

2 Alt-Benatek. In the town of Alt 
Bunzlau, opposite Brandeis, is an image 
of the Virgin, which attracts many pil- 
grims. At the door of the Collegiate 
Church, Boleslaw, King of Bohemia, 
murdered, at the instigation of Drabo- 
mira, his brother "Wenceslaus, who was 
afterwards canonised, and now ranks 
as a patron saint of Bohemia. Beyond 
this the road crosses the Elbe by a 
bridge to 

2 Brandeis. 

3 Prague. Handbook South Ger- 
many. 



BOUTE 84 a. 

DRESDEN TO ZITTAU AND REICIIENBERG 
BY" HERRNHUT. 

The railroad from Dresden to Bres- 
lau (Bte. 82) is followed as far as 

Lobau Stat. (p. 415), where a branch 
railroad, 3f Germ. m. long, strikes off 
S. to Hcrrnhut and Zittau. 






Prussia. 



ROUTE 84 a. HERRNHUT. 



423 



Herrnhut {Inn, Gemcindelogie ; very 
good) is the mother colony of the sect 
of Moravians, or Herrnhuters. It was 
established by fugitives, driven from 
Austria by the persecution of the 
Jesuits, 1721-25. They were received 
by Count Zinzendorf, a Saxon noble- 
man, who granted them an asylum and 
lands on this spot, and is considered 
as their founder. Near the highway, 
in the midst of a wood intersected by 
pleasant walks, a monument marks the 
place where he caused the first tree to 
be felled in 1722, to clear ground for 
the settlement, the country being then 
a vast forest. The community derives 
its name of " Herrnhuter," i. e. " the 
Lord's watch," from a passage in the 
84th Psalm, " Den Thiir hiiten in 
meines Gottes Hause," — "to watch 
the door in the house of my God." 
It is now a flourishing little formal 
town, of 1400 inhab., distinguished by 
the order, stillness, and cleanliness 
which prevail in it ; situated in the 
midst of a somewhat tame country of 
undulating hills, now nearly cleared of 
wood. It is the seat of a bishop, and 
the central point of the government 
and commerce of the sect, which, in 
1832, numbered 42 settlements in dif- 
ferent parts of the world. The Mora- 
vians profess the doctrines of the Con- 
fession of Augsburg ; but, excepting 
their love for music and toleration of 
dancing, they bear some resemblance 
to the Quakers, especially in the plain- 
ness of their dress. The female cos- 
tume is distinguished by variously 
coloured ribbons. The girls wear deep 
red ; unmarried women pink ; married, 
blue ; and widows, grey or white. 
The meeting-house, the sale-rooms for 
the articles manufactured here, and the 
Cemetery of the community on the 
Hutberg, all deserve to be visited. The 
Cemetery is a very interesting spot, 
commanding a lovely prospect. It is 
surrounded by a tall hedge of horn- 
beam, and intersected by avenues of the 
same, between which are laid the flat 
gravestones, quite plain, and bearing 
merely the name, and dates of birth 
and death. Those of the Zinzendorf 
family, in the centre, alone are dis- 
tinguished from the rest by their larger 



dimensions. That of the founder bears 
an inscription commemorating his 
bounty. Above the Friedhof rises the 
Hutberg, or watch-hill, a sort of cliff or 
group of rocks, surmounted by a temple 
or look-out house, commanding a fine 
panorama, — a wide prospect over the 
town, the estate bequeathed by Count 
Zinzendorf to the colony, Berchtolds- 
dorf, containing the house where he 
died, and in the distance the hill called 
the Saxon Crown. 

The Museum of natural history, col- 
lected by Moravian missionaries in the 
most distant corners of the earth, is 
interesting. The Herrnhuters are an 
industrious community : the linen ma- 
nufacture of Saxony may be said to 
owe its development to them. 

Zittau {Inns ; Sonne, good ; Sax- 
ischer Hof), a fine and prosperous 
manufacturing town of 10,000 inhab., 
on the JNeisse. It is the centre of the 
linen trade of Saxony ; and in its im- 
mediate vicinity cotton and woollen 
manufactures are extensively carried 
on. A splendid new Rathhaus has been 
built, and the Byzantine Ch. of St. John, 
finished in modern times, is an object 
of interest. From its proximity to the 
Bohemian frontier it enjoys a consider- 
able traffic with that country. The 
mountains which here form the Saxon 
boundary rise to a commanding height. 

Less than 5 m. S.W. of Zittau, on 
the summit of a hill shaped like a bee- 
hive, called Oybin, placed, in the midst 
of a caldron-shaped valley, stand the 
ruins of a castle and the extensive 
monastery of Oybin. Here is a beau- 
tiful chapel in the best pointed style, 
partly cut in the rock, but now a ruin. 
It stands in a cave or recess in the face 
of the cliff, and commands an extensive 
view over forest and valley. The ruins 
are easily found, as they are visible 
from Zittau, and may be reached by a 
fair walker in about 2 hrs. 

From Zittau excursions may be made 
to Wallenstein's castle Friedland, 9 m. 
to the E. (p. 416), and to the Baths of 
Liebwerda. 

Higher up the valley of the Neisse, 
within Bohemia, lies 

3| Reichenbcrg {Inn : Goldener Lowe ; 
middling), the most rising nianufactur- 



424 



ROUTE 85. — BRESLAU TO PRAGUE. 



Sect. VI 



ing town in Bohemia, second to Prague 
alone in population, having 13,000 in- 
hab. Its manufacture of linen is very 
flourishing and of great importance. 

This town is on the high road be- 
tween Gorlitz and Prague, and is 7 
Germ. m. distant from Jung-Buntzlau, 
on the road from Breslau to Prague, 
described in Rte. 84. The stages are, 
2 Liebenau, 3 Miinchengratz, 2 Jung- 
Bunzlau. 

BOUTE 85. 

BRESLAU TO 6LATZ AND PRAGUE BY 
THE HEUSCHEUER. 

27 Pruss. m. = 125| Eng. m. to the 
Pardubitz station on the Prague and 
Vienna railway. Schnellpost daily, in 
12 hrs. to Glatz, and in 32 to Prague, 
by railway from Pardubitz. 

N.B. — An Austrian signature on the 
traveller's passport is indispensable be- 
fore he can enter Bohemia. 

2 Domslau. The country is pretty 
and fertile, rt. The Zobtenberg (see p. 
421) is conspicuous ; it is about 10 m. 
distant from 

3 Jordansmuhle. 

2i Mmptsch. — Inns : Schwarzer 
Bar; "Weisser Schwan. A prettily 
situated town of 1 600 inhab. The old 
castle is seen on the right in entering. 
Many bloody contests took place here 
during the Hussite wars. Beyond 
Ziilzendorf the road passes the neigh- 
bourhood of the Chrysoprase Mines 
of Kosemitz (now disused), and of 
Schrebsdorf. Near Protzen there is a 
mine of opal. 

2 Frankenstein. — Inns : Deutsches 
Haus; Schwarzer Adler. A town of 
6000 inhab. 7 m. "W. is the mountain 
fortress of Silberberg ; it may be called 
the Gibraltar of Prussia, in so far as its 
defences, bastions, casemates, &c, are 
almost entirely hewn out of the solid 
rock. They were constructed by Fre- 
derick the Great, to guard the passage 
from Bohemia, at an expense of 4£ 
millions of Prussian dollars. 

The Bom. Cath. Church, in the mar- 
ket-place of the little town of Wartha 
(through which the road passes), con- 
tains a miracle-working statue of the 
Virgin, to whose shrine, in some years, 



40,000 pilgrims repair to offer up their 
vows and prayers. *5l steep road, 
marked by chapels, leads up to the 
chapel on the Wartberg, at a height of 
1772 ft. above the sea ; the view from 
thence is fine. The banks of the river 
Neisse are very picturesque ; near the 
town it forces a passage through the 
rocky gorge called Warthapass. After 
a steep ascent and descent, the road 
enters Glatz over a wooden bridge, be- 
tween the ancient and modern fortress. 
A fine view over the basin-shaped val- 
ley forming the county of Glatz, and of 
Bohemian mountains beyond. 

3j Glatz. — Inns : "Weisses Boss ; 
Krone ; both in the suburb. A strong- 
fortress on the JNeisse, having about 
9000 inhab., garrison included. A per- 
mission from the commandant is ne- 
cessary to view the works. The statue 
of St. John Nepomuk was placed ^ipon 
the donjon, by order of Frederick the 
Great, after he had taken the fortress. 
Baron Trenck escaped from its dun- 
geons by jumping from the ramparts. 

15 m. S.E. of Glatz are the baths 
of landeck, in a picturesque country, 
with an excellent trout-stream running 
through it. Inns : Weisser Lowe ; 
Schlossel ; Goldene Krone. The waters 
are tepid, sulphurous. The town is a 
mile distant from the Baths; it is a 
good station for visiting the Sudetic 
mountains, at the head of which is the 
Schneeberg, 4412 ft. above the sea- 
level. 36 m. beyond Landeck, through 
Jawornik (a bad road), is the Water- 
Cure Establishment of Vincent Priess- 
nitz at Grdfenberg, a village in the 
Austrian territory, 18 m. from Keisse. 

3 Reinerz. — Inns ; Goldene Krone ; 
Schwarzer Bar. A small town of 
2100 inhab., surrounded by mountains. 
About a mile off, in a secluded valley, 
are some mineral Baths, not now much 
frequented. A few miles N". of Beinerz 
rises the Heuscheuer, or Heuscheune 
(Hay-barn, so called from its shape). 
" A vast assemblage of detached masses 
of rock, many of them formed into the 
most curious shapes, from the sculp- 



turing 



of nature, and named after 



various objects, to which they bear a 
very exact resemblance. The most 
perfect likenesses are those of a ' bear,' 



Prussia. 



ROUTE 85 a. — BRESLAU TO CRACOW. 



42, 



a 'camel,' a 'seal' (See-hund), a 
' Moor's head,' and a ' laughing profile,' 
— all natural productions." — /. E. R. 
The highest point is the Grossvatersstuhl 
(Grandfather's Chair), 2800 ft. above 
the sea : from it the Carpathians are 
visible. The key of this very curious 
mountain is kept at Karlsbcrg, a little 
village on the W. side of it. Good ac- 
commodation may be found at the 
new Schweitzer Haus on the N. slope. 

Not far from this is the village of 
Albendorf, remarkable for containing 
a much frequented Pilgrimage Church, 
with several minor chapels and sta- 
tions, ornamented with figures of saints, 
and rude paintings representing the his- 
tory of Christ. In the printed de- 
scriptions of this town it is called a 
second Jerusalem ; and in order to make 
out a resemblance to the real Jerusalem 
it has twelve gates ; while a stream 
running through it is called Brook 
Kedron ; and the pool of Bethesda, the 
house of St. Anne, and the palace of 
the High Priest, all have their repre- 
sentatives within the walls. The tra- 
veller puts np or is taken in at the 
Judgment-hall of Pilate ! 

The last Prussian village is Lewin ; 
beyond it is the Austrian custom-house. 
About 4 m. from Lewin, off the road, 
lies Cudowa, whose mineral springs 
furnish a chalybeate, very strongly im- 
pregnated with carbonic acid gas. 
There are 2 lodging-houses and an as- 
sembly-room on the spot. The inhab. 
of the village are chiefly descendants 
of Bohemian Hussites. 

3 Nachod. — Inn : Lamm. The first 
town in Bohemia; it has 2200 inhab., 
chiefly weavers. Its Castle is said by 
some to be the birthplace of the re- 
nowned Wallenstein ; it belonged to 
his brother-in-law, Terzki, and at their 
death was confiscated, and bestowed 
upon the traitor Piccolomini. It com- 
mands a fine view of the whole range 
of the Biesengebirge. Nachod is a 
good starting-point to explore these 
mountains. 

2£ Jaromierz, on the Elbe. Near 
this, on the 1. bank of the river, stands 
the fortress of Josephstadt. — Inn ; bei 
"Wesseley, very good. 

2£ Koniggratz {Inn: Das Goldene 



Lamm), another frontier fortress, with 
large barracks for a garrison, and 7500 
inhab. ; lies on the Elbe. The Ca- 
thedral, and the Church and Convent, 
which formerly belonged to the Jesuits, 
are the most remarkable buildings. 
Much cloth is made here. Koniggratz 
is only 3j Germ. m. distant from the 

Pardubitz Stat, on the Prague and 
Vienna Railway, whence trains run in 
4 hrs. to 

Prague. Handbook S. Germany. 

BOUTE 85 a. 

BRESLAU TO CRACOW. — RAILWAY. 

34i Germ. m.=160 Eng. m. Trains 
to Myslowitz in 7 — to Cracow in 11 h. 

This railway, as far as the Prussian 
and Austrian frontier, is called the 
Upper Silesian Railway (Oberschlesische 
Eisenbahn.) 

Breslau. Boute 81. 

1^ Cattern Stat. 

lj Leisewitz Stat. 

| Ohlau Stat. (Inn: Goldene Krone), 
on the 1. bank of the Oder, has a palace 
and a picture gallery. 

2£ Brieg. Inn : Goldenes Kreutz. 
On the 1. bank of the Oder, with 12,000 
inhab. The palace here was formerly 
the residence of the Dukes of Brieg. 
A little to the W. is the battle-field of 
Mollwitz, where Frederick the Great 
defeated the Austrians, 10 Apr. 1741. 

From Brieg a branch Bly. runs to 
the town of Neisse, a distance of 6£ 
Germ. m. The stations are 3 Grott- 
kau, 3£ Neisse. 4 Germ. m. S. of 
this on the post-road is Freiwaldau 
(Inns: Kronprinz; Silber Krone), near 
which is the celebrated Water-Cure 
Establishment of Grafenberg, under 
Priessnitz. He has 5 lodging-houses, 
and charges for rooms 1^ to 3^ florins 
a-week. Board is charged 42 kr. a-day. 

1^ Lossen Stat. 

1 Lowen Stat. After leaving this the 
railroad crosses the Neisse and the Oder, 
just before reaching 

3 Oppeln Stat. (Inns : Schwarzer Ad- 
ler, good; Sachsischer Hof), the capi- 
tal of Upper Silesia, with 6800 inhab. ; 
formerly the residence of the Dukes of 
Silesia. Here is an old Church. 



426 



ROUTE 85 b. — BRESLAU TO VIENNA. 



Sect. VI. 



2§ Gogolin Stat. About 1 Germ. m. 
beyond this station, and at about the 
same distance from the railroad, is the 
Annaberg, on the summit of which 
stands a building, formerly a Franciscan 
convent, containing a miraculous image. 
It is a greatly frequented place of pil- 
grimage, especially on St. Anna's day. 

The railroad crosses the river Klod- 
nitz and its canal to 

2f Kandrzin Stat. On the opposite 
bank of the Oder, which is crossed by 
a wooden bridge, lie the town and 
fortress of Kosel, 2900 inhab. At this 
station the railway which connects the 
Upper Silesian Railway with the 
Prague and Vienna Railway turns off 
S. to Ratibor. (See Rte. 85 b.) The 
railway to Cracow runs E. up the 
valley of the Klodnitz to 

2 Rudzienietz Stat. 

2£ Gleiwitz Stat. (Inn : Adler.) An 
old town of 9000 inhab. on the Klod- 
nitz, in the mining district of Upper 
Silesia. There are considerable iron- 
works in the town and in the neigh- 
bourhood, also many iron mines. 

The railway passes on the 1. Zabrze, 
where are iron- works, to 

2 Konigshutte (King' s foundry) Stat.: 
here are large iron- works. The steel- 
iron works are celebrated in Germany 
for smelting iron ore by means of coke. 
There are 80 furnaces, besides 30 zinc 
furnaces, coal-mines, &c. ; rolling mills, 
foundries. Chimneys rise on all sides. 

3 Myslowitz Stat. Beyond this tbe 
railway crosses the river Schwarze 
Przemsa, which was the boundary of 
Silesia and the territory of the republic 
of Cracow, and now divides Silesia from 
the Austrian dominions. At Szczkowa 
the Railway to Warsaw branches N. 

8| Cracow Stat. — Inns: La Rose 
Blanche; H. deRussie; Goldener Anker; 



Konig v. Ungarn. 37,000 inhab. Since 
1846 this has been an Austrian city be- 
longing to the province of Galicia. Up 
to that time it was a Free Town, and 
the last remnant of the once great king- 
dom of Poland. (See, for description of 
Cracow, Hand-book of South Ger- 
many.) 

ROUTE 85 6. 

BRESLAU TO VIENNA. — RAILWAY. 

Proceed by the Upper Silesian Rail- 
way (Oberschlesische Bahn) as far as 
the Kandrzin or Kosel Stat. (16 Germ, 
m., 4| hrs.), as in Rte. 85 a. At 
Kandrzin a railway, which between 
this and the Austrian frontier is called 
the Wilhelm's Bahn, branches off to the 
S. Its length is 7^ Germ, m., which is 
traversed in 1£ hr. Those parts of Si- 
lesia and Moravia which are traversed 
by the railway are very pretty. 

2 (Germ. m. from Kandrzin) Ham- 
mer Stat. 

2 Ratibor Stat. Inn, Prinz von 
Preussen. A town of 6000 inhab., on 
the Oder, which here becomes navi- 
gable. Persons wishing to divide the 
journey between Breslau and Vienna 
may make Ratibor their sleeping quar- 
ters. The Prince of Prussia there is 
the best hotel. From Breslau to Rati- 
bor will occupy about 6 hrs., from 
Ratibor to Vienna 12 or 13. 

3i Oderberg Stat. Here is the Aus- 
trian frontier. The railway, called the 
Kaiser- Ferdinands -Nordbahn, connects 
this with Vienna. The distance is 37 
Germ, m., and the time occupied in 
the journey 10 hrs. At Prerau this 
line joins that from Prague by Olmutz 
to Vienna. (See, for the rest of this 
Route, Handbook of South Ger- 
many.) 



Saxony. 



52. MONEY. — 53. 1'OSTING TARIFF, 



427 



SECTION VII. 
SAXONY. 

introductory information.— 52. Money. — 53. Posting. 



ROUTE PAGE 

86. Frankfurt on the Main to 

Leipzig, by Fulda, Eise- 
nach, Gotha, Erfurt, and 
Weimar - - - - 428 

87. Leipzig to Dresden, Railway - 439 

88. The Saxon Switzerland (A), 

Dresden to Pillnitz. The 
Bastei, Schandau, Kuhstall, 
Prebisch Thor - - - 460 

89. The Saxon Switzerland (B), 

Descent of the Elbe — Schan- 
dau to Dresden by Konig- 
stein - - - - 465 

90. Dresden by Freiberg, Chem- 

nitz, and Zwickau, to Hof - 467 

91. Leipzig to Hof, Railway - 471 
91 a. Leipzig to Carlsbad - - 472 



ROUTE page 

92. Cassel to Eisenach, Railway, 

Meiningen, and Coburg - 473 

93. Gottingen to Gotha, Coburg, 

and Bamberg, through the 
Thuringian Forest, with 
excursions to the Baths of 
Liebensiein, and to Schmal- 
kalden - 

94. Leipzig to Coburg by Jena, 

Rudolstadt, and Sonneberg, 
with excursions to Paulin- 
zelle, 8fc, in the Thuringian 
Forest - 

94 a. "Weimar to Carlsbad, by 
Jena, Gera, and Altenburg - 

94 b. Erfurt to Coburg 



475 



- 476 



478 
478 



52. MONEY. 

Saxony has now adopted the same currency as Prussia and the other States of 
the Zollverein (§ 48), of which the dollar is the unit. See § 48. 

Accounts must be kept in Neugroschen = silver groschen of Prussia, of which 
30 make a thaler ; but in private transactions, especially in inns and shops, the 
old mode of reckoning by gute groschen (24 to the dollar) is still in use, though 
prohibited by law. 

f 2 thaler (j mark silver) ^| 
Silver Coins ^ 1 do. (, l , do.) - > See § 48, p. 228. 

{ § — ^ — £ of a dollar - J 

Kassen Scheme. — Notes of Saxony are in use as well as those of Prussia. 
The Leipzig and Dresden Railroad Company has also been allowed to issue paper 
money, but it is not taken at the public offices nor at theatres. 



Gold Coins. 

Augustus, or piece of 5 dollars, 
Half do. - 

Ducat - 



s. d. 

16 5i 

8 2$ 

9 5 



53. POSTING TARIFF. 

The posting tariff is now the same as in Prussia (§ 49, p. 229). 12| Neu- 
groschen per horse each German m., and 15 N. gr. for a courier's horse. 
The long miles of Saxony arc also abandoned for the Prussian mile. 



428 



ROUTE 86. — FRANKFURT TO LEIPZIG. 



Sect. VII. 



ROUTE 86. 

FRANKFURT ON THE MAIN TO LEIPZIG, 
BY FULDA, EISENACH, GOTHA, ERFURT, 
AND "WEIMAR. 

Post-road from Frankfurt to Eisenach, 
23 Germ. m. = 107^ Eng. m. Eilwa- 
gen daily in 21 hrs. By railway from 
Frankfurt to Cassel and Cassel to 
Eisenach (Rtes. 70, 92), the journey 
may he made in 10 hrs. 

Railway from Eisenach to Leipzig, 
hy Halle, Eisenach to Halle 25 Germ, 
m. = 116| Eng. m. 

Between Frankfurt and Leipzig the 
road passes through the territories of 7 
different states. About 4 m. from 
Frankfurt it enters the Electorate of 
Hesse Cassel. 

rt. 1 m. The Elector has a chateau 
near Hanau, called Phillipsruhe, on the 
banks of the Main. There is a railway 
from Frankfurt to Hanau, — trains in 5 
hr. by the Baths of Wilhelmsbad, 
occupying a deserted chateau in the 
midst of neglected gardens. They are 
resorted to by the Frankfurters ; their 
chief attractions are the walks in the 
wood. 

2 Hanau. — Inns: Post; Riese, com- 
fortable though small, but dear. This 
is the most considerable town of Hesse 
after Cassel, having 15,000 inhab. ; it 
is situated near the junction of the 
Kinzig with the Main in the most fer- 
tile part of the Wetterau. It was de- 
fended by Ramsay, a Scotchman, for 
9 months, against the Imperialists in 
the 30 Years' War. On quitting the 
town, the road passes the Battle-field 
of October 30 and 31, 1813, where 
Napoleon, retreating from Leipzig with 
the wreck of his army, cut his way 
through the Bavarians and Austrians. 
The loss of the allies exceeded that of 
the French ; it would have been greater, 
but for the manoeuvre of a miller, who, 
observing the German infantry hard 
pressed by a body of French cavalry, 
suddenly let the water into his mill- 
stream, between the two parties, and thus 
secured the retreat of his own friends. 

3 Gelnhausen — {Inns : Hirsch ; 
Griiner Baum ; Sonne, a clean country 
inn) stands on the Kinzig, and has 
3700 inhab. It was once an Imperial 



city of note, having been chosen as a 
residence by the Emp. Frederick Bar- 
barossa. The ruins of his Palace, built 
about 1144, still exist on an island in 
the Kinzig, in the lower part of the 
town, but are fast going to decay. The 
style of its architecture is that called 
by the Germans Byzantine, and shows, 
indeed, traces of an Eastern origin. 
The walls are of the most massive 
masonry. The chapel and the Imperial 
Hall (Reichssaal), where Barbarossa 
administered justice, deserve particular 
notice. On one side is a range of small 
round arches, supported by short pillars 
with foliated capitals ; on the other is 
the throne of Barbarossa, with singular 
bracketed columns, and ornaments re- 
sembling basket-work on the wall. 

The Cathedral also is interesting in 
an architectural point of view, as it was 
built 1210-1220, and shows the tran- 
sition from the round into the pointed 
style of Gothic, and proves the late 
introduction into Germany of the 
pointed style. It has many peculiar- 
ities, as — a twisted spire, a cupola, a 
mixture of round and pointed arches, 
wood- work, and old triptychs, a stone 
screen, with altar towards the nave. 
The doorways and capitals of the co- 
lumns are richly ornamented, and the 
windows are filled with fine stained 
glass. The remains of St. Peter's Ch. 
present an early example of the round 
arched style. The pass of Gelnhausen 
is one of the most important military 
points in Central Germany. 

The greater part of the next stage 
lies through a corner of Bavaria. 

2£ Saahnunster. Inn: Post. Dollars 
and groschen here take the place of 
florins and kreutzers (§ 55), and the 
posting is paid for in them. 

2 Schluchtern. Inn: Goldene Sonne. 

[14 m. to the E. lie the Baths of 
Briickenau, a much frequented water- 
ing-place. (See Handbook South 
Germany Rte. 169.) The road thither 
is improved, but is very hilly. The 
stage of 3 Germ. m. takes 3^ hrs. ; or 
11 hrs. from Frankfurt.] 

2 Neuhof. 

1| Fulda. — Inns: Kurfurst (Elector), 
very fair ; Post, neat and comfortable, 
obliging people. A town of 14,000 in- 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 86. — EISENACH. WARTBURG. 



429 



hab. (2000 Protestants, 600 Jews), on 
the Fulda. The principal buildings 
are, the Cathedral, a handsome modern 
edifice, the 4th church which has stood 
on this site. Nothing remains of the 
old building but the crypt, containing 
the shrine of St. Boniface, in which 
was once deposited the body of the saint, 
a much revered relic, now reduced to 
a fragment of his skull. Here are two 
old figures of Charlemagne and of a 
Scottish princess on horseback, said to 
have been converted and brought over 
to Germany by St. Boniface ; also, in 
the sacristy, his crosier of ivory, and 
the dagger with which he was murdered 
by the Frisians, a. d. 754. 

The Palace was formerly the resi- 
dence of the prince-bishops, to whom 
Fulda belonged. A statue of St. Boni- 
face has been erected in the open space 
before it. St. Michael's is a very curious 
round church, of high antiquity, founded 
822. The existing crypt, probably of 
that age, is supported in the centre by 
a stunted column, with a rude Ionic 
capital ; a circular passage surrounds it. 
The tower and Langhaus were built in 
1092. Most of the monasteries have 
been turned to secular purposes. 

The old porcelain figures of Fulda 
are much esteemed. Eilwagen daily to 
Briickenau, to Cassel, and to Giessen. 

2 Hiinfeld. Near the end of this 
stage the road quits Hesse Cassel, and 
enters Saxe Weimar. 

2 Buttlar. — Inn, Post ; neat and good. 
Fine views of the broken ridge of the 
Rhongebirge from this. 

1^ Vacha, an old town on the Werra. 

2^ Marksuhl. The road now enters 
upon a portion of the Thiiringerwald 
(Thuringian Forest) ; a great portion of 
the country is covered with unbroken 
wood. On descending the last hill, to 
enter Eisenach, the castle of the Wart- 
burg, Luther's prison, is seen on the 
summit of a hill on the right. 

2 Eisenach. — Inns : Rautenkranz 
(Rue Garland) ; Halbe Mond good. 
This is the principal town of the Thiir- 
ingerwald ; it is clean, thriving, and 
industrious (pop. 10,000), and is 
prettily situated, encircled by wooded 
hills. Sebastian Bach was born here. 
The oldest building is the Nicolaithurm, 



a tower and gate, the arch of which 
resembles Roman work, near the rail- 
way. 

A good carriage road, to be sur- 
mounted in ^ hr.'s walk, of con- 
tinued ascent, of 600 ft., leads to the 
Castle of Wartburg, the ancient residence 
of the Landgraves of Thuringia, but 
more remarkable as the asylum of Lu- 
ther from May 4, 1521, to March 6, 
1522. It was while returning from the 
Diet of Worms, where he had so nobly 
stood forth in defence of his faith, 
unmoved by threats or cajoling, and, 
had thereby incurred the papal excom 
munication, that, on reaching the borders 
of the Thuringian forest, he was way- 
laid by a party of armed and vizored 
knights, his attendants dispersed, and 
himself made prisoner. So secretly 
was the capture effected, that no one 
knew for a time what had become of 
him ; even Luther himself, it is believed, 
at the moment of his seizure, was not 
aware that the whole was merely the 
device of his friend the Elector of 
Saxony, adopted with the view of 
rescuing him from the dangers which 
at that moment threatened his life. He 
was silently conveyed away to the 
Wartburg, where he passed for a young 
nobleman, wearing a suitable dress, 
allowing his mustaches to grow, and 
taking the name of Junker Georg 
(Squire George). During the time 
which he spent in this solitude, which 
he often calls his " Patmos," he wrote 
several works, and completed a large 
portion of his translation of the Bible. 

The Wartburg, whose oldest portion, 
recently brought to light, including a 
long range of Romanesque arcades, 
dates from the 12th cent., is by no 
means a picturesque castle, but it is 
finely situated, overlooking a wide range 
of wild forest-clad hills. The chamber 
which Luther inhabited is pointed out. 
His bedstead and chair have been car- 
ried away in chips by visitors as relics. 
His table has been prevented sharing 
the same fate by a strong iron band. 
He has himself described in his writings 
the attacks to which he was here sub- 
jected, in his solitary hours, from the 
Evil One, whom he is reported to have 
repulsed by throwing the inkstand at 



430 



EOUTE 86. — WARTBURG. GOTHA. 



Sect. VII. 



his head ; and, in confirmation of the 
tradition, the ink-spots were shown 
upon the plaster wall, which has, in 
consequence, been scraped away by the 
relic collectors. 

In another division of the castle is 
a very curious Armoury, in which are 
several beautiful suits of the 16th and 
17th cent., and some attributed to 
the 13th or 14th. Many of the suits 
are assigned to great persons, such as 
Pope Julius II., and Henry II. of 
France, both finely worked; that of 
"Frederick with the bitten cheek" 
(so called because his mother, in the 
anguish of parting with him when a 
child, bit his cheek till the blood came), 
and of Lewis the Leaper. Here are 
shown the armour of Kunz of Kau- 
fungen, a robber knight of gigantic 
stature, who stole away two of the 
Saxon princes, and was beheaded at 
Freiberg ; two suits, said to have been 
worn by Kunegunde and Agnes, Saxon 
princesses and heroines ; the Constable 
d.e Bourbon's armour, which he wore 
at the moment of his death, while in 
the act of scaling the walls of Eome ; 
that of Feige von Bomsen; and of 
many dukes and landgraves of Thu- 
ringia. The Wartburg was the resi- 
dence of the pious St. Elizabeth of 
Thuringia, who, being discovered by 
her stingy husband distributing victuals 
to the poor from her apron, and being 
asked what she had there, replied, 
" Flowers." The husband, thinking 
to detect her in a falsehood, tore open 
the garment, and lo ! flowers fell out. 
By a miracle, to cover the pious fraud, 
and reward the lady's charity, the bread 
and cheese had been turned into roses 
and lilies! In 1207 the Minnesangers 
(Northern Troubadours) assembled on 
the "Wartburg to hold a trial of skill. 
In 1817, 500 riotous students collected 
here from different German universi- 
ties, chiefly from Jena, with several 
professors, and made some seditious 
and revolutionary speeches, which led 
to several arrests. The old castle has 
undergone repairs : a curious gallery 
of Byzantine arches in the upper story 
has been restored with care, and the 
hall has been covered with modern 
paintings relating to its history. 



Though the country of S axe-Eisen- 
ach belongs to Weimar, it is separated 
from the rest of that duchy by Saxe- 
Gotha and a part of Prussia. 

From Eisenach Railways run to 
Halle (Thuringische Eisenbahn) on the 
Berlin and Leipzig railway; and to 
Cassel, see Bte. 92. 

Frottstedt Stat. 

Gotha Stat. — Inns : Der Mohr 
(Moor), good, on the high road on the 
outskirts of the town ; Deutscher Hof ; 
Der Biese, in the market-place. 

Gotha, the chief town of the duchy, 
and, alternately with Coburg, the resi- 
dence of the Duke of Saxe-Coburg, has 
a population of 14,000 souls (100 Bo- 
man Catholics). 

Schloss Friedenstein is a large, but 
not a handsome building, conspicuous 
on a height, 1150 ft. above the sea- 
level, surrounded by terraces com- 
manding fine views. It contains, 1st, 
a Picture Gallery, not of first-rate ex- 
cellence, but including many good by 
Cranach, who lived at Gotha ; Holbein, 
portraits of the Sulzer family ; V. Eyck, 
portrait of Philip of Burgundy; L. 
v. Ley den, Judith and Holofernes ; and 
Dutch pictures, particularly a female 
portrait by Van der Heist ; Rembrandt' s 
Mother; Rubens' "Wife; and 2 Van 
Goyens ; 2 little Saxon princes, sup- 
posed to be Ernst and Albert ; a screen 
of A. Diirer's school; some good small 
specimens of ancient Florentine paint- 
ing ; and a portrait of Agnes von Mans- 
feld. 

The cabinet of engravings is large 
and excellent. In the Kunstkammer 
may be seen the swords of Charle- 
magne and Sobieski ; the prayer-book 
of James I. and .A Tine of Denmark, 
bound by Cellini; a ring of Mary 
Stuart ; Louis XIY.'s head on an ame- 
thyst ; fine gold-mounted nautili ; and 
some capital figures executed in wood. 
Among the gems is a Medusa's head 
in sardonyx, &c. 2nd, a Library of 
150,000 vols., including the collection 
of 2000 MSS. made in the East by 
Seetzen, many of them very valuable. 
3rd, a Museum of Natural History, in- 
teresting : the specimens of cheirothe- 
rium, mammoth, and amber are fine. 
4th, Coins and Medals, very extensive 






Saxony. 



ROUTE 86. — GOTHA. ERFURT. 



431 



and complete ; one of the finest collec- 
tions of the kind in Europe. 5th, a 
Japanese and Chinese Museum, contains 
many curiosities seldom seen in Eu- 
rope ; such as rare Chinese and Japan- 
ese books, articles of furniture, wea- 
pons, &c. Among the porcelain are 
specimens of Bottichcr's (of Dresden) 
first attempts. These collections are 
shown gratis on Tues. and Frid., 10 
to 3, from April 1 to Oct. 31 : at 
other times for a fee of 1 dollar. At 
such times the Gardens and Terraces 
adjoining the palace, and the Boule- 
vards round the town, are agreeable 
promenades. In the Ducal Palace is a 
collection of modem pictures ; among 
them Wapper's (the Belgian) Charles 
IX. firing on the Huguenots, &c. &c. 
Near it is the Stable (Marstall). 

The Almanack de Gotha is the title of 
a pocketbook printed here, which gives 
the names, ages, and pedigrees of all 
the reigning princes of Europe and 
their families. 

Berghaus's maps and charts, pub- 
lished by Perthes, are very excellent. 

A porcelain manufactory, formerly 
in some estimation, is carried on here. 

There are many pleasant Excursions 
in the neighbourhood, but its beauties 
are perhaps somewhat exaggerated by 
the natives. A visit to Reinhardsbrunn 
(9 m.), a ducal country seat, in the 
form of a Gothic chateau, erected on 
the site of an ancient Benedictine ab- 
bey, destroyed in the Peasants' War, 
1525, is particularly recommended to 
strangers who can spare 5 or 6 hours 
to such a detour. Several curious old 
monuments of Saxon princes are placed 
in the Chapel. The country about it 
resembles a beautiful park. The In- 
selsberg, 1\ hrs' walk from this, com- 
mands from its top a finer view than 
any other mountain of the Thmingian 
range. Schnepfenthal, the celebrated 
institution for education (Erziehungs 
Anstalt) of Mr. Salzmann, is on the 
road. At Siebleben, about \ m. out 
of the town, on the way to Erfurt, 
Grimm, author of the ' Correspond- 
ence,' is buried. On the summit of a 
hill to the right is seen the Observatory 
of Seeberg, formerly the residence of 
Baron Zach, the astronomer. The rail- 



way skirts the foot of the hill crowned 
by" the Dietendorf Stat. : hero is a Mo- 
ravian colony. 

The Hamster rat inci^eascs at times to 
such an enormous extent in the Thu- 
ringerwald as to become a plague. 
In 1817-18, 200,000 were taken in the 
neighbourhood of Gotha. 

On the rt. may be seen the 3 castles 
called the Drei Gleichen. They are of 
great antiquity, and belonged to differ- 
ent owners, but were all struck with 
lightning in 1250. Muhlberg is a total 
ruin, except its donjon tower. Gleichen 
is in a better state of preservation, the 
roof remaining in part : the Wachsenburg 
is still entire. They are situated in the 
most beautiful part of Thuringia. 

Beyond this, about half-way between 
Gotha and Erfurt, we cross the boun- 
dary of Prussia. At a little distance 
from the walls of Erfurt the strong 
citadel of Cyriaksburg is passed. 

Erfurt Stat. — Inns : Silber's Hotel ; 
am Bahnof, near the Stat., well con- 
ducted ; — G. C. zum Kaiser, great 
civility, — F. 1850 ; Weisses Ross. This 
very old town was at one time capital 
of Thuringia (Thuringen) ; it now be- 
longs to Prussia, and is a fortress of se- 
cond class, very important from its situ- 
ation on the great high road of Central 
Europe. The fort Petersberg within the 
walls, and the citadel of Cyriaksburg 
without, contribute to its strength. It is 
a dull and inanimate town on the Gera, 
exhibiting marks of decay, and its popu- 
lation has shrunk to 27,000 ; not more 
than half of what it once possessed 
(7000 Rom. Catholics). It has a gar- 
rison of 4000 men. 

The Bom (Cathedral), well situated 
on an eminence, and originally a fine 
Gothic structure, has been seriously in- 
jured by war ; but the King of Prussia 
has expended considerable sums in re- 
pairing it, and the work has been well 
done. The choir dates from 1353, the 
nave from 1472. The 2 stately towers 
are of the 12th cent. It possesses a 
famous bell, called Grosse Susanna, 
weighing 275 cwt. The 1ST. portal, 
which is. double, resembles the porch 
of Ratisbon, and is much admired. 
The altars on the 1. as you enter arc 
very elegant. Observe a bronze bas- 



432 



ROUTE 86. — ERFURT. WEIMAR. 



Sect, VII. 



relief, attached to the monument of 
Canon Henning Goden, of the Corona- 
tion of the Virgin, hy Peter Vischer of 
Nuremberg, a highly finished work : 
the monument of a Count von Gleichen 
with his 2 wives. Within the choir, 
which is very fine, is a very old bronze 
candelabrum, representing a penitent 
holding tapers, with an inscription not 
satisfactorily explained. The stalls are 
partly ancient. There is a very good 
Holy Family, by L. Cranach, and a 
still older painting, perhaps by Van 
Eyck, on the door of a reliquary in the 
wall : the cloister is good, but ruinous. 
The view from the top of the tower 
will well repay for the ascent. 

In the Barfiissefkirche is a carved 
altar-piece of the Coronation of the 
Virgin, with statues of the Apostles. 
The interior of the Predigerkirche 
(1228) is very fine. In the Ch. of St. 
Severus, distinguished by its 3 spires, 
near the Dom, over an altar, is a fine 
high relief of the archangel Michael, of 
excellent workmanship, and a richly 
decorated font, date 1467. 

There is one object of particular in- 
terest here : it is Luther's Cell in the 
Augustine convent. The building is 
now converted into an Orphan House, 
called Martinsstift, but his apartment is 
preserved as nearly as possible in its 
original condition, and contains his 
portrait, Bible, and other relics. He 
entered the convent as a monk, July 
17, 1505, in consequence of a vow 
made 14 days before, on the death of a 
friend who was struck by lightning at 
his side. Here he spent several years 
of his life : at the altar in the chapel 
he read his first mass, and here, per- 
haps in this very cell, he first studied 
the Bible, of which he never saw a 
copy until he was 20 years old, when 
he picked one up, by accident, in a 
corner of the library. 

In the neighbouring Augustine 
church the Erfurt Parliament held its 
meetings, 1850. In the Fishmarket, in 
front of the Pathhaus (erected 1259,) 
stands a Polandsdule. (See note, p. 375.) 
The fortifications and the Walks outside 
of these command fine views of the town 
and its numerous spires. The Steiger is 
the most frequented walk ; you reach it 



through market-gardens, singularly irri- 
gated. 

Schropp's models of Gothic build- 
ings, &c, are worth seeing. 

The University of Erfurt was sup- 
pressed in 1816, and of the numerous 
convents which existed here till very 
recently one only remains, the Ursuline 
Nunnery. It is worth visiting, as an 
interesting specimen of a monastic esta- 
blishment. The sisters employ them- 
selves in teaching a school. 

From the 14th to the 16th cent. 
Erfurt was a Hanse Town, and a staple 
place of the trade of a great part of 
Europe. The great commercial high- 
way between the Baltic and the Hanse 
Towns on the one hand, and Italy and 
Venice on the other, lay through Augs- 
burg, Nuremberg, Erfurt, and Bruns- 
wick, to Lubeck and Danzig. 

A congress of sovereigns was assem- 
bled at Erfurt, 1807, by Napoleon, who 
resided in the palace of Count Dalberg. 
The Electors of Mayence were Stadt- 
holders of Erfurt at one time. 

Shortly after leaving Erfurt the rail- 
road quits the Prussian dominions, and 
enters Saxe-Weimar. 

Weimar Stat. — Inns: Erbprinz, im- 
proved; Piussischer Hof, best; Ele- 
phant. Weimar, situated on the Ilm, 
is the residence of the Grand Duke of 
Saxe-Weimar, and capital of his domi- 
nions; it has 13,000 inhab. To a 
stranger it will probably appear a dull 
and provincial-looking town. It has 
no trade to give it activity, nor can the 
presence of a court supply this want. 
It has also lost its claim to its former 
appellation of The Athens of the Worth 
since the deaths of Schiller, Gothe, 
Wieland, Herder, and other men of 
genius and learning, who, though not 
natives of the duchy, resided here by 
invitation of the former Grand Duke, 
and conferred a lustre on his court and 
capital. 

There are few sights at Weimar to 
detain a traveller. The chief buildings 
are the Stadtkirche (town ch., built 
1400). The altar-piece of the Cruci- 
fixion, by Lucas Cranach, is one of his 
finest works ; it contains portraits of 
the artist himself near the cross, and 
of his friends Luther and Melancthon : 



Saxony. route 86. — weimar. palace and gardens. 



433 



44 members of the Ducal Family of 
Saxe Weimar are interred here. The 
most illustrious among them is the 
Grand Duke Bernard, the brave general 
of the XXX Years' War, the ally of 
Gustavus Adolphus, and second to him 
only among all the Protestant leaders. 
His grave has no other distinction than 
a simple brass plate. A tablet in the 
pavement bearing the name of Herder, 
marks the spot where that eminent 
writer is buried, and a bronze statue of 
him, by Schaller, stands in front of the 
Ch. He lived in a corner house, close 
to (N. of) the Ch. 

In the Cemetery of the Schloss Kirche, 
or Ch. of St. James, is the tomb of 
Lucas Cranach (d. 1553). The mason 
who carved his epitaph has written 
Victor celerrimus, instead of celeberri- 
mus ; it can hardly be said by mistake, 
because both epithets are equally de- 
served, from the number as well as 
merits of the works he has left behind. 
In the same place are the graves of 
Musseus the poet (d. 1787), and of 
Bodseus. 

The Palace is a handsome building, 
tastefully furnished, but not otherwise 
remarkable. A suit of apartments has 
been decorated by modern artists, Neher, 
Preller, &c, with frescoes, illustrating 
the works of Schiller, Gothe, Herder, 
and Wieland. Duke Bernard's armour 
is kept in one of the rooms ; and be- 
side it, in a box, one of his fingers, 
which was cut off in an encounter with 
an enemy, and afterwards preserved 
and carried about by its owner. 

Near the palace is the Public Library, 
in a circular tower, once a powder- 
magazine. Within it are several por- 
traits of eminent persons by L. Cranach 
and other artists; colossal busts of 
Schiller, by Dannecker, and of Gothe, 
by David; busts of Herder and Wie- 
land. There are also a few relics of 
great men, such as the black gown 
worn by Luther when a monk ; Gus- 
tavus Adolphus' s leather belt, pierced 
by the bullet which caused his death at 
Lutzen. In the market-place is a hand- 
some modern Gothic Rathhaus, built 
1841. 

The house of Gothe, in which he died 
(1832), is in the Frauenplatz. The 

[n. g.J 



interesting relics of him, and the col- 
lections which he left behind, are no 
longer shown to the public. The fur- 
niture was of a very homely descrip- 
tion : in his study were a common deal 
table (at which he wrote, which be- 
longed to Schiller), his desk, and stool. 
He never had an arm-chair until he 
was 80. His drawing-room was deco- 
rated with casts from the antique, with 
models and drawings by the old mas- 
ters. The small house of Schiller is also 
pointed out in the Esplanade. 

The Theatre was once under Gothe' s 
and Schiller's management. The per- 
formances and music are still tolerable. 
The audience has the oharacter of a 
large family party : females come and 
go unattended, and ladies need appear 
in no finer costume than a bonnet and 
morning dress. The play is generally 
over by nine. 

In the New Churchyard, beyond the 
Frauenthor, beneath a small chapel, is 
the Grand Ducal burial-vault. Gothe 
and Schiller are here interred. The 
late Duke, Charles Augustus, their 
patron and friend, intended that their 
remains should have been deposited on 
each side of him, but it appeared that 
courtly etiquette would not permit this 
proximity, and they have therefore been 
placed in one oorner, at a respectful 
distance. Hummel the composer is also 
buried here. The apparatus used to 
prevent premature interment, is curious 
(§ 45), and^should be seen. 

The grounds belonging to the Palace 
are laid out in a Park and Gardens, ex- 
tending along the pleasant banks of the 
Ilm. They are much esteemed by the 
inhabitants as a promenade. Within 
them is situated the summer residence 
of Gothe. The park communicates, 
by an avenue, with the summer villa 
called Belvedere (2 m.), commanding a 
fine view, and having a hothouse, con- 
servatory, and fine garden attached to 
it. Another chateau of the Grand 
Duke is prettily situated at Tieffurt : 
It is worth a visit. It contains an im- 
mense quantity of rococo of all descrip- 
tions. The kitchen is lined with old 
Dutch tiles, and the dressers covered 
with all sorts of game, fruit, fish, &c, 
in porcelain, delf, and papier-mache. 

U 



434 



ROUTE 86. — NAUMBURG. WEISSENFELS. 



Sect. VII. 



Eilwagen daily to Jena, Gera, and 
Altenburg. About 12 m. E. of Weimar 
is Jena, remarkable for its University. 
(See Rte. 94 a.) 

There is a direct road from Weimar 
by Jena and Altenburg to Dresden, 
passing Freiberg, or to Carlsbad, (Rtes, 
91 and 90.) 

Apolda Stat, Wieland's grave is at 
Ossmanstadt, 5 m,, on the way to Jena 
from Weimar, in the midst of his garden. 

The field of the battle of Auerstddt, 
or Jena, so disastrous to Prussia, 14 
Oct. 1806, lies near Hassenhausen, 3 
m. S. of the railroad, between the 
Apolda Stat, and Naumburg, A small 
pillar has been erected by the King of 
Prussia in a field to the S, of the road, 
between Eckhardsberge and Naumburg, 
to mark the spot where the Duke of 
Brunswick was mortally wounded, 

Suiza Stat. Some way beyond this 
the Duchy of Saxe Weimar terminates, 
and Prussia is entered. 

Between Suiza and Naumburg, the 
road traverses the narrow and pic- 
turesque defile of the Saale. In it are 
situated the salt-works, baths, and 
mineral springs of Kosen, the approach 
to which is singular and picturesque ; 
on the right, high above the Saale, is 
the Castle Saaleck, The baths are sup- 
plied from the brine, or mother liquor, 
left in the pans when nearly all the 
salt has been extracted. 

Close to the railroad lies the curious 
village Schulpforta, whose Church is a 
noble Gothic building (the choir, 1251- 
68), and in whose School, 300 years 
old, Klopstock and Lessing were edu- 
cated. 

2 1 Naumburg Stat., at some distance 
from the town. Jnns: S'achsischer Hof ; 
Blauer Hecht, in the town ; Preussischar 
Hof, good, in the suburbs. Naumburg' 
is an industrious town, of 12,650 inhab,, 
beautifully situated in the valley of the 
Saale, in the midst of an amphitheatre 
of hills covered with vines and dotted 
with country-houses. The Cathedral 
is a remarkable Gothic edifice, with 
double choir at the E. and W. ends. 
The nave, transepts, crypt, and part of 
towers are Romanesque. The W. choir 
is pointed in the purest style ; the sta- 
tues of the founders against the pillars 



are very fine works of the 13th century. 
The W. roodloft is also of the best 
period of the pointed Gothic. The 
crucifix is placed underneath, in the 
doorway ; the front is ornamented with 
bas-reliefs. The E. roodloft is Roman- 
esque, with round arches, a rare ex- 
ample of the style. 

In the Ch. of St. Wenzel (Stadtkirche) 
is a picture of Christ blessing the chil- 
dren, by Cranach. 

Naumburg was a place of great im- 
portance during the Thirty Years' War, 
and in the campaigns of 1806 and 1813. 
Here were the Prussian magazines. 
Napoleon having turned the flank of 
the Prussian army, seized the town, and 
this proved one of the main causes of 
the disastrous defeat at Jena. This 
town was again occupied by the French, 
previously to the battle of Lutzen, 1 
May, 1813, and its possession was long 
and fiercely contested between the 
French and Russians. After the route 
of Leipzig, the Allies having occupied 
Naumburg, Napoleon was obliged to 
turn aside towards Freiburg, on the 
Unstrut, out of the main road, the de- 
files near Naumburg being occupied 
with cannon, 

Naumburg and Weissenfels are 
among the most northern points in 
Europe where Vineyards are planted; 
but the greater part of the wine pro- 
duced from them so nearly resembles 
vinegar, that it is chiefly profitable 
when sold as such, or when distilled to 
make brandy. 

The castles of Schonburg and Go- 
seek are seen on the left, before reach- 
ing. 

2~ Weissenfels Stat. In a country- 
house near the Stat., marked with an 
N., Napoleon slept the night after the 
battle of Leipzig. Jnns : Drei Schwane, 
good ; zum Schutzen, good. Is a town 
of 10,000 inhab., on the Saale. The 
many- windowed Schloss on the height 
to the S.W, of the town, formerly the 
residence of the Dukes of Weissenfels, 
is now a barrack. 

The dead body of Gustavus Adolphus 
was brought hither after the battle of 
Lutzen, and embalmed in a room of the 
Town-house (Amtshaus), in the presence 
of Bernard of Saxe Weimar. It is re- 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 86. — ROSSBACH. LUTZEN". 



435 



corded that his heart weighed 1 lb. 
2 oz. ; that the body bore the marks of 
8 wounds, i. e. 5 gunshots, 2 cuts, 1 
stab. A part of the wall, which was 
stained with his blood, is still preserved 
from external contact. His widowed 
queen repaired hither to receive the 
body. The heart was instantly con- 
veyed to Stockholm ; but the bowels 
are interred in the Kloster Kirche, in 
"Weissenfels. 

Corbetha Stat. About 5 m. "W". of 
this is Bossbach, the scene of one of Fre- 
derick the Great's most memorable and 
unexpected victories, which he gained 
with an army of only 22,000 Prussians 
over 60,000 French and Austrians 
under Soubise, Nov. 5, 1757. The King 
directed his manoeuvres, previously un- 
rivalled in military tactics, from the 
castle of Rossbach. From the ridge on 
which it stands he despatched Sedlitz, 
at the head of his cavalry, to sweep 
down the French in successive charges, 
so as to drive them from the field in 
less than half an hour. The enemy, 
previously certain of victory, had 
directed their chief efforts to prevent 
the escape of Frederick, and had 
weakened their line by so doing, which 
caused their defeat. 

2£ Merseburg Stat. (Inns : Sonne ; 
Arm ; Hof ), a town of great archi- 
tectural interest, with a chateau and a 
fine Gothic Cathedral on a rock over- 
looking the river; the choir built in 
1200, the nave 1500; having a rich 
portal, and containing the tomb of the 
rival Emperor Rudolph of Swabia, 
1080, killed in combat with Henry IV. 

2 Halle Stat. Railroad thence to 
Leipzig. (See Rte. 63.) 

The direct post road to Leipzig from 
Weissenfels, avoiding the circuit by 
Halle, passes through Liitzen. 

In the defile of Rippach, 3 m. from 
Liitzen, Marshal Bessieres was killed 
in a skirmish the day before the battle 
of 2nd May, 1813. 

2 Liitzen. Inns not good. A small 
village, whose name would never have 
been heard of, but for the great battles 
fought in its vicinity. About a mile 
out of the town, by the side of the 
high road to Leipzig, a rude unsquared 



block of granite, one of the most south- 
ern of those mysterious boulders which 
have been transported from the moun- 
tains of Scandinavia, is set up, shaded 
by a few poplars, and further distin- 
guished by a Gothic canopy of cast 
iron, raised over it in 1838. This is 
called the stone of the Swede (Schu-e- 
denstein), and marks the spot where 
Gustavus Adolphus fell, in the midst of 
the battle of Liitzen, 6 Nov. 1632. 
This was one of the most fiercely con- 
tested engagements recorded in history. 
In the course of it, Piccolomini had 
seven horses killed under him, and 
Pappenheim was mortally wounded, 
and died the next day at Leipzig, while 
their colleague, the Imperial General- 
issimo Wallenstein rode unhurt through 
a shower of balls. The Swedish 
cavalry fought long and bravely for the 
possession of the corse of their sove- 
reign, and at last bore it off triumph- 
antly to the church of the neighbouring 
village of Meuchen. 

Liitzen is also memorable for a more 
recent battle, £&&*? s "'ithe 2nd of May, 
1813, between Napoleon and the Allies. 
The former maintained possession of 
the field, but gained no other material 
advantage, after a bloody engagement. 
The Prussian General Scharnhorst died 
of a wound received on this occasion ; 
Blucher was also severely wounded. 
The Prussians have named this battle 
after the village of Gross-Gorschen, a 
little to the S. of Liitzen, and near 
which and Kaia the field of battle lies. 
This was the first occasion in which 
they measured their strength success- 
fully with the French, after the fatal 
battle of Jena. 

The campaign of 1813 was fought 
over a great portion of the same ground 
as that of 1806 ; the same posts were 
contested and defended, but with very 
different results. Napoleon, who was 
successful in the first instance, suf- 
fered, in the neighbourhood of Leip- 
zig, the most decisive defeat. On the 
2nd occasion, the operations of that 
memorable battle of the 17th, 18th, 
and 19th of October, 1813, extended to 
a distance of nearly 10 m. on all sides 
of Leipzig. 

The Prussian territory terminates 
u 2 



436 



EOUTE 86. LEIPZIG. 



Sect. VII. 



3 m. beyond Liitzen. Markt-Banstadt 
is the first town in Saxony. In the 
castle of Alt-Ranstadt, Charles XII. 
fixed his head-quarters after the con- 
quest of Saxony by his army and the 
dethronement of Augustus. Hence 
he called on the cabinets of Europe to 
acknowledge Stanislaus Leczinsky, the 
monarch whom he had placed on the 
throne. The Duke of Marlborough 
here visited the youthful monarch on a 
secret mission, and complimented him 
by expressing a wish to serve a cam- 
paign under so great a general. 

Within the suburbs of Leipzig the 
road crosses the bridge over the river 
Elster, which was blown up, towards 
the end of the battle of October 19, 
soon after Napoleon had crossed it, and 
while a large portion of his retreating 
army was still on the opposite side. 
This mistake caused the capture of 
25,000 French soldiers, and the death 
of many hundreds, who, with waggons, 
cannon, and horses, were precipitated 
into the Elster by the rush and pres- 
sure which ensued. The most lamented 
and eminent of those who thus perished 
was Poniatowski. His monument, 
near the spot where his body was 
found, stands in Gerhard's garden, on 
the right, before entering the town. 
(See p. 438.) 

2f Leipzig. — Inns : H. de Baviere, 
very good indeed ; H. de Pologne, a 
huge house, new 1850, near the mar- 
ket-place ; H. de Bussie ; Blumenberg, 
well situated ; all 4 are lst-class hotels : 
H. dePrusse, Napoleon's quarters 1813 ; 
H. de Saxe ; Stadt Bom, near the 
Dresden Bly. ; Bheinischer Hof ; the 
two last moderate 2nd-class inns. Dur- 
ing the Fair the charge for a room is 
double the ordinary price, or a dollar, 
instead of 12 g. grosch. Aeckerlein's 
Bestauration, in the Market-place, is 
very good. Fetsche's Coffee-house is 
prettily situated. Carriages are sent 
from the different inns to convey tra- 
vellers to and from the railways — charge 
5 S. gr. Fiacres ply also. 

Leipzig is built on the small rivers 
Elster and Pleisse, and has 62,245 
inhab. and 2000 houses ; it is a place 
of considerable historical celebrity, and 
of greater commercial importance j yet 



it is likely that it will appear dull 
to the traveller in search of amuse- 
ment, unless he happens to visit it 
during the Fair (when it is seen to 
great advantage), as it has neither very 
fine buildings nor remarkable collec- 
tions to arrest the attention. The town, 
formerly confined within walls, has now 
removed its gates, and thrown out fine 
suburbs beyond — proof of increasing 
prosperity. About 1000 new houses 
were built between 1840-51. 

Three Fairs are held here annually ; 
— at Easter (Oster Messe, beginning on 
the 2nd Sunday after Easter), which is 
the most important. At Michaelmas 
(beginning 1st Sunday after Michaelmas 
day), and the Neujahr Messe (begin- 
ning on New Year's day), the least im- 
portant. . They last three weeks, and 
while they continue, Leipzig is the 
mart and exchange of central Europe, 
and is visited by merchants and 
foreigners from the most distant parts 
of the globe, sometimes to the number 
of its actual population. The money 
transactions at one time amounted to 
80 millions of dollars annually, though 
of late they have fallen short of this 
sum. The streets and squares are then 
occupied by temporary booths, in addi- 
tion to the ordinary shops, in which 
goods of all kinds are exposed for sale. 
Every hotel and lodging-house is filled 
to overflowing ; the streets are thronged 
with strange costumes and faces ; Jews 
from Poland, Tyrolese, Americans, and 
even Persians from Teflis, Armenians, 
Turks, and Greeks, are mingled to- 
gether as in a masquerade, and most of 
the countries of Europe send repre- 
sentatives hither with their produce. 
300 or 400 guests sit down daily to the 
tables-d'hote of some of the principal 
hotels ; gardens and coffee-houses are 
thronged. 

The sale of books forms one of the 
most important branches of commerce 
here ; it alone is said to amount to 10 
millions of francs yearly. In fact, the 
whole book-trade of Germany is centred 
on the spot, and every bookseller in 
Germany and the adjoining countries 
has an agent here. 600 booksellers 
sometimes assemble at the Easter Fair, 
to settle their annual accounts and pur- 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 86. — LEIPZIG. UNIVERSITY. 



437 



chases, and there are 130 residents and 
30' printing-offices. They have an Ex- 
change of their own, called the Deutsche 
BuclJidndler Bdrse, where they meet and 
transact business. 

Leipzig is likewise celebrated for its 
University, the oldest in Germany after 
that of Prague, having been founded in 
1409 by German Seceders from the Bo- 
hemian University. Several buildings 
near the Grimma gate are appropriated 
to its use, the chief of them being the 
Augusteum, finished 1836, from Schin- 
kel's design, and containing the Library 
of 100,000 vols., including a beautifully 
illuminated Hebrew MS. 12th cent., a 
collection of autographs (Letter of Sir 
T. More to Erasmus), early woodcuts 
and black books ; the Paulinum, wherein 
the museums of natural history and 
anatomy are deposited, and the Filrsten 
Collegium. It numbers about 60 pro- 
fessors, 70 private teachers, and 800 
students. " This is one of the few 
scholastic establishments on the Con- 
tinent which has retained its own 
landed estates, most of the others hav- 
ing been stripped within the last 50 
years, and being now supported by 
annual grants. In other respects, also, 
it resembles our English universities ; 

1 commons ' being kept for 300 students, 
who demand it on the plea of poverty, 
with a small additional subscription of 

2 gros. a week ' for pepper, vinegar, and 
salt' from those who participate." — 
L.M.r. 

" The Town Library, in a very long 
and striking room, besides European 
works, has a remarkable collection of 
Oriental MSS. ; many Turkish books 
obtained by the Germans in their vic- 
tories over the Turks in Hungary, such 
as pay lists, officers' commissions, 
dating from 1683, when Sobieski res- 
cued Vienna; a portion of an almost 
unequalled Koran which belonged to 
a mosque at Sultanieh, and another 
brought from a mosque at Buda, 
when that city was Mahommedan." — 
L.M.r. 

St. Nicholas is the finest church in 
the town (date 1525), but its archi- 
tecture is of questionable taste, rather 
overloaded with ornament. The pic- 
tures of (Eser arc not very interesting. 



The Ileilige Dreifaltigkeits Kirche, 
built from designs of Heideloff, is a 
very fair specimen of modern Gothic, 
and is worth entering. 

The GreatMarket-place is picturesque, 
from the quaint architecture of its 
buildings, particularly of the Town 
House (Bathhaus) built 1556, on one 
side of it. In this square the allied 
sovereigns met after the battle of Leip- 
zig. The house caUed Konigshaus, be- 
cause formerly inhabited by the Elec- 
tors and Kings of Saxony on their 
visits to the town, was occupied by 
Napoleon during the battle ; here he 
had his last interview with the king, 
who was afterwards detained prisoner 
in it by the Allies as an adherent of 
Napoleon, and here Marshal Schwar- 
zenberg, the general of the allied 
army, died in 1820. Next door to it is 

Auerbach's Cellar, a vault under an 
old house near the market-place, where 
beer and wine are sold, and where, ac- 
cording to tradition, the famous magi- 
cian, Dr. Faustus, performed his feats, 
which are represented in 2 rude daubs 
on the walls. Gothe has laid in this 
cellar a scene of his tragedy of Faust, 
in which the drunken students are sup- 
plied by Mephistophiles with various 
kinds of wine, out of holes bored with 
a gimlet in the table. It is said that 
the poet, as well as his hero, not un- 
frequently caroused here while a student. 

The New Post Office in the Bahnhof 
and Dresdener Strasse, Grinimaische 
Vorstadt, is the finest building here, 
after the Augusteum. Beyond it is 
the Ch. Yard of St. John, containing 
the graves of some remarkable men, 
Gellert, Spohn,Bosenmiiller, Politz, &c. 

The lover of art may visit with plea- 
sure the collections of pictures belonging 
to the Stddtische Museum (modern 
German and French) : — of Mr. H. 
Schletter, Peter-st. (admission 15 S. gr.), 
and that of Baron Speck (formerly a 
wool-merchant), at his seat Liitz- 
schena, 5 m. from Leipzig, which con-, 
tains some very fine things ; Hemling's 
Salutation ; Reubens — Portrait of a 
Prior ; Rembrandt, a portrait ; v. der 
Heist, portrait of a female ; Murillo y . 
Madonna and Child ; Diirer, portrait of 
a young woman. 



438 



ROUTE 86. — LEIPZIG. 



Sect. VII. 



The Castle of Pleissenburg, the an- 
cient citadel at the S.E. angle of the 
city walls, withstood the attacks of 
Tilly during the Thirty Years' War, 
several weeks after the town had sur- 
rendered. The, lower part of it is now 
turned into a wool warehouse, and the 
tower into an Observatory, from the 
top of which a good view may he ob- 
tained of the town. The surrounding 
country is flat, hut it is interesting as 
the scene of the memorable battle of 
Leipzig, distinguished by the Germans 
as the Volkerschlacht, " Battle of the 
Nations." It was one of the longest, 
sternest, and bloodiest actions of the 
war, and one of the largest battles re- 
corded in history, from the number of 
troops engaged, amounting to 176,000 
on the side of Napoleon, and 300,000 
on that of the Allies, with 1600 cannon, 
and the space of ground over which the 
operations extended ; and it decided the 
fate of Europe. After the conflict had 
raged for 3 days in the vicinity of 
Leipzig, on the 19th October, 1813, it 
reached up to the very walls, and 
cannon balls fell in showers in the 
streets. On the morning of that day, 
Napoleon and part of his army passed 
through the town, quitting it on one 
side almost at the moment when the 
Allies entered it on the other. Indeed 
it is doubtful whether the emperor 
himself would have escaped, but for 
the bravery of Macdonald and Ponia- 
towski in covering his retreat, and for 
the premature blowing up of the bridge 
beyond the Eanstadt gate, at the mo- 
ment when many of the French troops 
were in the act of passing, and thou- 
sands remained behind. This event, 
whether designed or accidental, caused 
the death of Poniatowski, and many 
hundreds of less note ; the spot where 
he was drowned may be discerned from 
the tower. It is situated in M. Ger- 
hard's (formerly Pcichenbach's) Garden, 
just beyond the walls, and is marked 
by a small and humble stone monument 
close to the margin of the Elster, a 
mere ditch in size, but at the time of 
the battle so choked up with bodies of 
men and horses, dead, dying, or strug- 
gling to cross, that the sorry steed on 
which he was mounted, his own having 



been killed under him, was unable , to 
swim among them. The brave Pole, 
already twice wounded, and borne down 
in the throng, sunk in attempting the 
passage. Macdonald, better mounted, 
passed it in safety nearly at the same spot. 
In another part of the garden is a stone 
tomb, with inscriptions in Polish and 
Latin, erected by the soldiers of his 
regiment to their commander, on the 
spot where his body was found 4 days 
after. Here is a model of Thorwald- 
sen's statue of him; the original, set up 
at Warsaw, has disappeared. The road 
to Grim ma (towards the S.E.) leads 
over the most interesting portion of the 
field of battle. Napoleon remained the 
whole day on an eminence rt. of the 
road, near Stotteritz, now marked by a 
clump of trees. Propstheide, a village 
1 m. further, was the key of the French 
position. The Allies were aided by 
a British rocket-corps, whose com- 
mander, Captain Bowyer, B.A., was 
killed. 

The keeper of the Observatory will 
give every information respecting the 
battle, and point out all the interesting 
spots. An excellent account, with 
plans of the battle, has been published 
(1850) by Col. the Hon. Geo. Cathcart. 

There is nothing more agreeable here 
than the Gardens round the city walls, 
and between them and the suburbs. 
The entire circuit of these walks may 
be made in § of an hour, and it will be 
found they are not surpassed in any 
town of Germany, especially in the 
part near the Grimma Gate. 

Rosenthal, a park outside the town, 
to the N.W., is much frequented in' 
summer. Leibnitz, the philosopher, 
who was a native of Leipzig, used to 
study and meditate in it. 

Leipzig is famed for 2 delicacies of 
the table, larks and apples ; the last are 
named from the neighbouring -village of 
Borsdorf. A British Consicl - General 
resides here. 

The shop of Mr. Friedrich Fleischer 
is well situated, and furnished with the 
best European literature in various lan- 
guages, including Giudes for Travellers. 

Railroads. — Terminus on the N.E. 
side of the town — to Magdeburg ; to 
Berlin; to Dresden. Terminus on 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 87. LEIPZIG TO DRESDEN. 



439" 



the S. side of the town — to Hof, Bam- 
berg, and Nuremberg ; with a branch 
to Zwickau. 

Schnellposts daily to Chemnitz ; to 
Merseburg ; to Annaberg, Chemnitz, 
and Liitzcn. 

ROUTE 87. 

LEIPZIG TO DRESDEN. — RAILROAD. 

15f Germ. m.=72 Eng. m. Trains 
in 3^- hours. Terminus in Leipzig, be- 
tween the Halle and Grimma gates. 

From Leipzig the railway runs pa- 
rallel with the high road, and at a short 
distance from it, as far as Oschatz, 
crossing it twice. 

Both roads, on quitting Leipzig, tra- 
verse a portion of the Battle-field of 
1813 (p. 438). During an engagement 
between Ney and the Crown Prince of 
Sweden, near the village of Paunsdorf 
on the post-road, the Saxons went over 
to the side of the Allies. 

The river Mulda is crossed by a 
bridge of 19 arches, shortly before 
reaching. 

3£ Wurzen Stat., a town of 3000 in- 
hab. 

2^ Luppa Dahlen Stat. 
. The vale of Dollnitz is traversed on 
a lofty viaduct on approaching 

1J Oschatz Stat, (Inn, Lowe), a town 
of 5000 inhab., surrounded by ancient 
fortifications. Its Church — rebuilt after 
a fire in 1842, from Heidcloffs designs 
— has two tall towers with open spires, 
276 ft. high. In the neighbouring 
Chateau of Hubertsburg the treaty of 
peace, which terminated the Seven 
Years' War, was concluded, 1763, be- 
tween Frederick the Great and the Em- 
press Maria Theresa. The building 
is now converted into a pottery. 

2 Biesa Stat. (Good Restaurant.) 
Here is the junction of the direct rail- 
way line from Berlin to Dresden. This 
little town lies on the 1. bank of the 
Elbe. On quitting the station we leave 
the post road on the rt., and traverse 
the Elbe on a bridge of 9 arches, and 
then follow the rt. bank of the river for 
a short distance, crossing the long 
viaduct of Rodcreau, which rests on 
64 piers. 



About 10 m. N.W. of Ricsa, on the 
Elbe, is Muhlberg, where the battle was 
fought, in 1547, when the Protestants 
under John Frederick, Elector of Sax- 
ony, were defeated by Charles V.^ and 
their leader made prisoner, and com- 
pelled to throw himself at his con- 
queror's feet. 

2i Pristewitz Stat 

A tunnel, the only one on the line, 
about 500 yards long, is traversed at 
Oberau. Near this (rt.) a glimpse is 
obtained of the town of Meissen, on the 
opposite side of the Elbe, 4 m. off. 
Postwagen go thither from 

Niederau Stat, several times a day. 

[Meissen. {Inns: Sonne, the best, but 
dirty and dear ; — Hirsch.) A town of 
5000 inhab., prettily situated on the S. 
bank of the Elbe, which is here crossed 
by a bridge. 

The old Castle on the precipitous 
rock above the town, formerly the resi- 
dence of the Saxon princes, is now con- 
verted into a porcelain manufactory, in 
which the famous Dresden China is 
made. The view from it on all sides 
is charming, and its Gothic architecture 
presents much that is worthy of admira- 
tion, especially in the two elegant cork- 
screw staircases, the vaulting of the 
ceilings, the cross room, and a poly- 
gonal turret room ; the windows are of 
a curious late Gothic, inclining in shape 
to those of Batalha and St. Mary's Red- 
cliffe. China ware or porcelain was 
originally brought from the country 
after which it is named, and was first 
made in Europe at this place, in 1710, 
by one Botticher, an alchemist, who, 
after wasting a great deal of the gold of 
his patron (Augustus I., King of Poland 
and Elector of Saxony) in his search 
for the philosopher's stone, stumbled, 
by accident, upon a more sure method 
of producing the precious metals by the 
discovery of an art which has served to 
enrich his countrymen. This manu- 
factory, so celebrated in the time of 
Augustus II., received its death-blow 
in the Seven Years' War, being then 
plundered, and its workmen and models, 
along with the archives, carried away 
by Fredeiick the Great. It continued 
to enjoy royal patronage at a heavy 
expense to the private purse of the 



440 



ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. 



Sect. VII. 



Saxon Sovereign, but the King has 
lately ceded it to the Government. It 
is now carried on for profit, and cheap- 
ness being the object, it now makes a 
revenue, but the articles made are very 
inferior to those of former times. The 
managers of the establishment are very 
civil in showing it to strangers, who 
will find here a very large assortment 
of articles for sale or inspection. 

Contiguous to the manufactory is the 
Bom, a beautiful Gothic Church, begun 
in the 13th and continued to the 15th 
cent., with an exquisite spire of open 
work. The interior is remarkable for 
the purity of its style. The receptacle 
for the sacrament near the altar is 
very elaborately carved in stone. The 
painted glass in its windows, the Descent 
from the Cross by L. Cranach, in which 
are introduced the portraits of Luther, 
his wife, and his friend the Elector, a 
painting by A. Diirer, and the roodloft, 
are worth notice. Attached to the W. 
end is the Prince's vault (Furstengruft), 
where many early princes of the Saxon 
house are interred, including the 2 
princes Ernest and Albert, the founders 
of the Royal and Ducal lines of Saxony. 
Here are some fine brasses, like those 
of Breslau and Freiberg, a bronze 
monument of Friederich der Streitbar 
is the most remarkable. 

A Tunnel — a gigantic work, 24 m. 
long — has been in progress many years 
from the level of the Elbe at Meissen 
to Freiberg, in order to drain the silver 
mines around that town, which have 
been for ages choked with water.] 

Beyond Mederau as far as Dresden 
the railway runs at the foot of a range 
of hills, covered with vineyards, slop- 
ing down to the Elbe, producing, under 
skilful management, a tolerable wine, 
and dotted over with elegant villas and 
country-houses . 

The high road from Meissen to 
Dresden is crossed at Kbswig. rt. On 
a height is seen the tower of the castle 
of Weistrupp, retreat of the Duke of 
Lucca, who abdicated in favour of his 
son 1849. 1. lies Lossnitz, where is a 
large manufactory of champagne ! 

2 Dresden Terminus in the Neu- 
stadt, on the rt. bank of the Elbe. 
Fiacres and omnibuses are ready to 



convey passengers to all parts of the 
town, for 10 and 5 neu groschen. 

Dresden. — Inns : H. de Saxe, in the 
Neu Markt, very good. The three 
principal floors are carpeted from Oc- 
tober till the end of May. — H. de Pologne, 
Schlossgasse — Table d'hote good. 
British Hotel, good, well furnished ; — 
Stadt Bom, in the Neu Markt : the 
above are very good inns, nearly equal 
in merit. — H. de France, Wilsdi-uffer 
Gasse, good. Table d'hote, 20JS. gr. 
Families with their servants may live 
en pension at these hotels during the 
winter, and at other times make an 
agreement for periods of not less than 
a month, on moderate terms. Stadt 
Berlin, good ; — H. de 1' Europe ;— Stadt 
Wien, in the Neustadt overlooking the 
river and bridge, one of the best, but 
remote. 

The capital of Saxony, residence of 
its sovereign of the Albertine line, and 
seat of the government (Population 
90,000—5000 Rom. Cath.), is situated 
on the Elbe, which divides the old town 
from the new. Dresden was named by 
Herder "the German Florence;" and 
in its pleasing situation, in the number 
and excellence of its collections, and 
more especially in its richly stored Pic- 
ture Gallery, it may deserve to be com- 
pared, at a respectful distance, with the 
Florence of Italy. Few European capi- 
tals contain a greater number of objects 
calctdated to gratify the curiosity of an 
intelligent traveller. It is the residence 
of many men of learning and talent, 
who contribute much to render society 
agreeable. The opera is good^ and 
music is much cultivated ; the climate 
is generally mild and agreeable, food 
and lodgings are not dear. It has been 
much resorted to since 1830 by the 
English for education and economy; 
and for those who are not alarmed by 
the recent events in Germany, is eli- 
gible as a residence. The town itself 
is more pleasing at a distance, than 
striking when examined in detail; it 
has neither fine streets nor imposing 
public buildings, but its situation is 
pretty, and its environs are delightful. 
The most healthy localities are the 
Neustadt and the S. streets of the old 
town, Waisenhaus Strasse, Halbe 



N K A / ...I:.., 




J.&. C.Walker Sculp. 




Published by John Murray llhemurh- Street London 1849. 



■ 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. COLLECTIONS. 



441 



Gasse, sometimes called the English 
quarter. 

The Post and Diligence offices are 
included in one handsome building in 
the Wilsdruffer Platz . A letter to or from 
England reaches in 3 days. The office for 
Extra-post horses is in the Annen Gasse. 
Fiacres are stationed in the public 
places ; the charges vary according to 
the number of passengers, the number 
of horses, and the distance. For any 
distance within the town, for one 
person with one horse, the charge is 

5 Neu gr., for 2 persons 7 5 Neu gr. 
There are also Droschken (covered cabs) 
with one horse, of which there are now 
about 200 ; fares, for a drive (Fahrt) in 
the inner circle of the town 4N. gr., 
in the outer circle or suburbs 6 1ST. gr. 
Sedan chairs are used, and the fares are 
low, 5 N. gr. within the town, and 
10 N. gr. from it into the Neustadt or 
suburbs. 

The Collections at Dresden are open 
to the public from April to October, on 
certain days and at fixed hours ; in 
almost all instances, however, only by 
means of tickets, a limited number of 
Which are given out gratuitously for 
each day; thus, 115 are issued for the 
Cabinet of Natural History ; 36 for the 
Armoury. 

The Green Vault is shown only by 
tickets, which cost 2 dollars, and admit 

6 persons. The Library is open daily, 
and without tickets, all the year 
round. 

All the collections may be seen dur- 
ing the months, the days, or hours, when 
they are not open to the public, by pay- 
ing a fee of 2 or 3 dollars for a ticket 
(Einlasskarte), which usually admits 
6 persons, and also secures the attend- 
ance of their directors ; but an appoint- 
ment must be made with them before- 
hand. The directors of the collections 
are always men of intelligence, pos- 
sessing and willing to impart every 
information respecting the objects of 
which they have charge, and will direct 
the stranger's especial attention to the 
things most deserving minute examina- 
tion. The closing of the Picture Gal- 
lery and other collections in winter is 
a great drawback to Dresden as a resi- 
dence, since it operates practically to 



the exclusion of the stranger, unless 
he will pay 2 or 3 dollars. 

The services of a valet de place (who 
usually receives 1 dollar per diem) are 
particularly required at Dresden, to 
procure tickets for the open collections, 
and to make appointments during the 
close months, and for those collections 
which are shown only on payment of a 
fee. If a foreigner were to undertake 
this for himself, he would sustain a 
great loss of time. The tickets are 
usually all engaged along while before- 
hand, so that a stranger pressed for 
time has little chance of obtaining them 
exactly at the moment when he wants 
them, except by the agency of a valet 
de place. By h% aid, also, the solitary 
traveller is enablpd^to join parties about 
to visit the collections ; and, instead of 
paying the entire fee, which is onerous 
for one or two persons, may contribute 
only his share, by which considerable 
expense is spared. 

Days and hours of admission to the 
Collections in Dresden, from May 1st 
to Oct. 31st. 

Daily. — Picture Gallery, 9 — 5 in 
summer, gratis, without tickets. Satur- 
day, 9 — 1, p, 445., Library, on aD 
hour's warning, 9 — -1, do. Green Vault, 
8—12 and 2—6, fee of 2 dollars. 

Monday * — Historical Museum (Ar- 
moury) in the Z winger, 8h^-12 and 2 — 6, 
with tickets > of which only 36 are is- 
sued — Plaster Casts. 

Tuesday. — Collection of Engravings 
and Drawings, 8 — 12, Gems, 8 — 12. 

Wednesday. — Antique Sculpture, 
9 — 1. Collection of Porcelain, 2 — 6. 
Cabinet of Minerals, 9 — 12 (tickets). 
Cabinet of Zoology, 3 — 6 (tickets). 

Thursday. — Historical Museum, 
8—12 and 2—6 (tickets). Meng's 
Plaster Casts, 8—12. 

Friday. — Canaletto' s Views in Bruhl' s 
Palace, 9 — 1. 

Saturday. — Antique Sculpture, 9 — 1. 
Cabinet of Minerals, 9 — 12 (tickets). 
Cabinet of Zoology, 3 — 6 (tickets). 

Tickets of Admission to the Green 
Vaults, Armoury, Engravings, and Col- 
lection of China, cost 2 thalers, and 
admit 6 persons. 

N.B. The "Dresdener Anzeiger" 
newspaper gives at the end a " Tage- 

u 3 



442 



ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN". CHURCHES. PALACES. Sect. VII. 



buch,' ' or list of the sights open every day, 
with the modes of obtaining admission. 

The Bridge over the Elbe is one of the 
longest and finest structures of the 
kind, entirely of stone, in Germany. 
It commands an excellent view of the 
town and valley of the Elbe. It was 
originally built with money raised by 
the sale of dispensations from the pope, 
for eating butter and eggs during Lent. 
It is of a very solid construction, in 
order that it may resist the force of the 
stream (which often rises 1 6 ft. in 24 h., 
when the snow begins to melt), and the 
shocks of floating masses of ice in the 
spring ; during the months of January 
and February the river is usually frozen 
oVer. The fourth pier from the side of 
the Altstadt, was blown up by the 
French general Davoust, in 1813, to 
facilitate his retreat to Leipzig, and the 
two adjoining arches fell ; and in the 
winter of 1845-6, the pier between the 
7th and 8th arches from the Altstadt 
side gave way, owing to underscouring 
during the flood, caused by the melting 
of the ice, when the adjoining arches 
of course fell. 

N.B. Foot passengers in crossing the 
bridge always take the path on the right 
hand, "a rule of the road," which is 
enforced by the police, and prevents 
collision and confusion. 

Another and finer Bridge \ mile W., 
lower down the river, carries over the 
railway which connects the Leipzig 
with the Prague line. This bridge has 
also a carriage and foot way. The 
estimated cost is 120,000/. Its 1 2 large 
arches are of 100 ft. span ; the 2 smaller 
of 50 ft. It is 1532 Sax. ft. long, and 
60 broad between the parapets. 28 ft. 
of this are occupied by 2 lines of rail : 
the 2 footways are each 4 ft. and the 
carriage-way 24 ft. in width. 

The Frauenkirche (Ch. of our Lady) 
is a very handsome edifice entirely of 
stone, even to the dome, which is of 
such solid construction that the shells 
and balls directed against it by Fre- 
derick the Great during the Seven 
Years' "War (in 1760) rebounded from 
its surface, \rithout doing it any injury. 
A good view may be had from the out- 
side of the cupola, and an easy staircase 
leads up to it. 



The Catholic or Court Church between 
the bridge and the palace is a profusely 
decorated but tasteless building, in the 
Italian style. It is connected with the 
palace by a bridge thrown over the 
street, and is attended by the royal 
family. They profess the Catholic faith, 
though their subjects are Lutherans, 
since the time of Augustus II. (1697), 
who, as the price of obtaining the crown 
of Poland, adjured the religion of which 
his ancestors had been the earliest and 
most faithful supporters. The music 
in this church is celebrated all over 
Germany. It is under the superin- 
tendence of the director of the opera, 
who merely transfers his band from the 
orchestra to the organ loft. High mass 
is performed on Sundays and festivals, 
from 11 to 12, and no stranger should 
miss hearing it. During service, the 
male and female part of the congrega- 
tion are arranged on opposite sides of 
the church. The organ, made by Sil- 
berman, is considered very good. The 
altar-piece is by Raphael Mengs^ a 
native artist. 

The Terrace of Briihl, formed after 
the destruction of that minister's Palace 
and Gardens in the Seven Years' War, 
approached by a grand flight of broad 
steps from the foot of the bridge, runs 
along the 1. bank of the Elbe, and com- 
mands a delightful view. It is a de- 
servedly favourite promenade and 
lounge of the inhabitants, who resort 
much to the places of entertainment 
situated on it, that is, to the Cafe'Reale 
for ices in the afternoon, and to the 
HassfeloVs Cafe and Restauration in the 
evening for supper, tea, beer, and 
music. 

In the Palace of Bruhl, contiguous 
to the terrace, named after the profligate 
minister of Augustus II., are the Aca- 
demy of Fine Arts, under BendemanrCs 
direction, and a collection of 50 land- 
scapes by Bernardo Canaletto. Many 
of them are views of Dresden and its 
vicinity; but the greater part are in- 
ferior productions. 

The Royal Palace, opposite the 
bridge, is an ancient bunding, of very 
ungainly architecture externally. 
"Within, it is decorated with the splen- 
dour usual in palaces. It possesses a 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. GREEN VAULT. 



443 



great attraction for the lovers of modern 
art in the frescoes, by Bendemann, in the 
Thron Saal. A series of scenes painted 
on gold grounds, representing the 
various conditions of life, its occupa- 
tions and labours from the cradle to the 
grave, form a frieze round the room. 
" The line of thought is as follows : 
from an original state of innocence — 
indicated by Paradise (1st composition) 
- — the human soul passes through its 
earthly existence, which is troubled by 
the consciousness of sins, to find its 
redemption and glorification by means 
of Christianity — set forth in the hea- 
venly paradise in the last composition." 
At the lower end are figures of heroes 
and great men ; at the upper, four large 
compositions from German history. 
These last refer to the 4 orders of the 
state : 1 . The Peasant order. The Em- 
peror Henry I., the Fowler, transfers 
every ninth peasant to a city : and 
stores there a portion of the Harvest. 
2. The Citizen order. Henry builds 
stone walls round some cities, and 
founds others. 3. The order of No- 
bibity. Henry's victory over the 
Hungarians at Merseburg. 4. The 
Ecclesiastical order. Henry leads his 
army against the Danes, conquers 
them, and compels their king to assume 
Christianity. For brightness and clear- 
ness of colouring, pleasing subject, and 
graceful design, the paintings forming 
the frieze are superior to most of the 
modern German frescoes. The state- 
rooms are shown, when the court 
is absent, by an ofiicer called Bett- 
meister. 

The Green Vault (das griine Gewdlbe), 
a range of vaulted apartments, On the 
ground floor of the Palace, are so called, 
probably, from the colour of the hang- 
ings with which the chambers were 
originally decorated. They form a 
separate and curious exhibition, and 
are shown on week days from 8 to 12, 
and from 2 to 6. An appointment 
must be made previously with the in- 
spector, who conducts parties not ex- 
ceeding 6 in number, and explains every 
thing to them. He receives a fee of 
2 dollars. 

The Saxon princes, besides being far 
more powerful and important in former 



times than at present, were also among 
the richest sovereigns of Europe ; the 
Freiberg silver mines alone were an 
immense source of wealth, previous to 
the discovery of America. The nu- 
merous and valuable collections of 
various kinds, still existing in the 
capital, are proofs both of their riches 
and their taste. One mode by which 
they showed their magnificence, and 
expended their money, was in the accu- 
mulation of all kinds of rare objects, 
such as jewels and exquisite carvings, 
in the precious metals, and in other 
costly materials, which were deposited 
in a secret strong room under their 
palace, where it is believed that vast 
treasures of money were also accumu- 
lated. This is the origin of the cele- 
brated collection now known as the 
Green Vault. It is probably the richest 
which any European monarch at this 
time possesses ; indeed, the treasures 
remind one rather of the gorgeous, 
dazzling magnificence of oriental des- 
pots, or the magic productions of 
Aladdin's lamp in the eastern tale. The 
value of the whole must amount to 
several millions. 

The political economist would regret 
that so much capital should lie idle, 
while the man of taste may affect to 
despise what, at first sight, he might 
deem a collection of toys ; but in truth 
he will find, on a nearer examination, 
that a large portion of the objects are 
in the highest degree worthy of atten- 
tion as works of art, while others are 
at least wonderful as the elaborate pro- 
ductions of patient toil and skill, and of 
arts which in the present day may be 
said to be almost extinct, or at least to 
have degenerated. The treasures are 
contained in 8 apartments, each exceed- 
ing the previous one in the splendour 
and richness of its contents ; the whole 
has been re-arranged within a few years. 
The objects are so numerous, that it is 
quite impossible to allude to more than 
a few of the most striking in each 
chamber. 

1st room contains objects in bronze, 
as, a Crucifix, by John of Bologna, a 
masterpiece — a little dog scratching 
itself, by Peter Vischer — a copy of the 
Farnese bull — the Rape of Proserpine. 



444 



ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. GREEN VATJLT. 



Sect. VII. 



A statue of Charles II. of England on 
horseback, in the character of St. 
George, cut out of a piece of solid cast- 
iron. 

2nd, or Ivory Cabinet ; a Crucifix 
attributed to Michael Angelo, and not 
unworthy of him — a battle-piece by 
Albert Dtirer (?) — a number of beau- 
tiful vases, some of large size, cut out 
of a single piece of ivory — a cup, on 
which is carved the story of the Foolish 
Virgins — the Fall of Lucifer and the 
Wicked Angels, a most wonderful group 
of 85 figures, carved in one piece of 
ivory, 16 inches high — 2 horses' heads 
in relief, by Michael Angelo. There is 
an interesting work of the present day, 
a goblet of stag's horn, cut in the 
manner of a cameo with figures repre- 
senting a hunt, by Schulz, an artist of 
Meiningen. 

3rd contains Florentine mosaics ; en- 
graved shells ; ostrich eggs, carved and 
ornamented : No. 41 is an egg said to 
have been laid by an ostrich kept in the 
menagerie of Moritzburg; objects in 
amber, particularly a cabinet, entirely 
of this precious material — a chimney- 
piece of Dresden china, ornamented 
with precious stones, all of them the 
produce of Saxony ; paintings in Enamel, 
especially a Madonna and Eece Homo, 
by Raphael Mengs when young — por- 
traits of Peter the Great and Augustus 
the Strong, by Dinglingei — a fruit dish, 
with a battle-piece, by Noel Landin 
of Limoges, a celebrated artist in 
enamels. 

4th is filled with gold and silver plate 
which adorned the banquets of the 
Saxon palace. A part of this collec- 
tion was carried to Frankfurt at the 
coronation of the Emperors by the 
Electors of Saxony, who possessed the 
hereditary office of Arch-Marshal at 
those ceremonies. 

5th. Vessels formed of half-precious 
stones, such as agates, chalcedony, 
rock crystal, lapis lazuli, &c. ; — 2 gob- 
lets composed entirely of cut gems 
(some of them antiques), are valued at 
60 00 dollars each. An antique onyx 
cameo, bearing the portrait of Augustus. 
The cups of Moss agate are particu- 
larly beautiful. 

Here may be seen the largest enamel 



known, a Magdalen, by Dinglinger. — 
A set of vessels cut out of solid rock 
crystal, are valuable for their size and 
brightness ; the modern manufacture 
of crystal glass, however, has attained 
such excellence, as nearly to equal 
them in appearance. 

6th room contains a large assem- 
blage of cleverly cut figures in ivory 
and wood, also numerous caricature 
figures of men and animals formed of 
single pearls, of odd shapes and un- 
usual size, chiefly found in the Elster, 
a Saxon river. For instance, the body 
of a court dwarf of the King of Spain, 
is formed of a pearl as large as a hen's 
egg. Besides these, there are a num- 
ber of other most costly jewels and 
trinkets, on which a vast deal of inge- 
nuity and wealth must have been ex- 
pended. Two old watches, called Nu- 
remberg eggs (there is a finer one in 
the Rustkammer) from their shape and 
the name of the place where they were 
first made, in 1500. 

Among the carvings in wood are 
two combats of knights, by that emi- 
nent sculptor, Colin of Mechlin, who 
executed the reliefs on Maximilian's 
tomb at Innsbruck ; others are attri- 
buted to A. Diirer. 

The 7th room. The regalia used at 
the coronation of Augustus II. as King 
of Poland. 

The 8th and last apartment sur- 
passes all the others tenfold in the va- 
lue and splendour of its contents. 
Among the wonders of this cabinet 
are the works of Dinglinger, an artist 
who may be fairly termed the Saxon 
Benvenuto Cellini. He and two re- 
latives of inferior skill were almost 
entirely employed by the Electors of 
Saxony ; and a close examination of 
the workmanship displayed in his per- 
formances will show that they are the 
productions of no mean artist. One 
of these pieces is called the Court of 
the Great Mogul, and represents the 
Emperor Aurengzebe upon his throne, 
surrounded by his guards and courtiers, 
in the most appropriate costumes ac- 
cording to the description of Taver- 
nier, to the number of 138 figures, all 
of pure gold enamelled. The variety 
of character, and the true expression 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. PICTURE GALLERY. 



445 



of each of the figures, deserve the mi- 
nutest inspection. This elaborate trin- 
ket, begun in 1701, employed Dinglin- 
ger 8 years, and cost 58,400 dollars. 
Another piece, by the same artist, 
portrays artizans of different trades, 
all remarkable for the delicacy and per- 
fection with which they are executed. 
There are many other specimens of 
Dinglinger's skill ; he flourished be- 
tween 1702 and 1720, and was court 
jeweller at Dresden. 

Other things to be noted in this 
room are — an immense specimen of 
uncut Peruvian emeralds, given by 
Rudolph II. to the Elector of Saxony ; 
a portion of a mass of solid native sil- 
ver from the Himmelsfiirst mine at 
Freiberg. It is recorded, that no less 
than 2176 cwt. of silver were ob* 
tained in the course of 50 years from 
that mine alone. The Saxon Regalia 
include — the Electoral sword borne 
by the Saxon princes at the Imperial 
Coronations ; the decorations belong- 
ing to a miner's uniform, made for the 
Elector John George, 1676 ; a large 
collection of chains, collars, and orders ; 
among which are the Garter, Golden 
Fleece, Polish Eagle, &c, worn by 
Saxon princes. The largest sardonyx 
known, 6^ inches long, and 4^ broad ; 
it is oval, and beautifully regular. 

Last of all comes a glass case filled 
with most precious suits of the most 
costly jewels ; — the 1st division con- 
tains Sapphires, the largest of them, 
an uncut specimen, was a gift of Peter 
the Great ; — the 2nd, Emeralds ; — 
3rd, Rubies, the two largest spinels 
weigh 48 and 59 carats ; — 4th, Pearls, 
one set of native Saxon pearls, from 
the Elster in Voigtland, are of course 
inferior to the oriental. Among 63 
rings there are two which belonged 
to Martin Luther ; one a cornelian 
bearing a rose, and in its centre a 
cross ; the other his enamelled seal 
ring, bearing a death's head, and the 
motto, " Mori saepe cogita." 

The 5th division is devoted to Dia- 
monds. The diamond decorations of 
the gala dress of the Elector consist of 
buttons, collar, sword hilt and scab- 
bard, all of diamonds ; the 3 brilliants 
in the epaulette weigh nearly 50 carats 



each. But the most remarkable stone 
of all, which is considered unique, is a 
green brilliant, weighing 160 grains = 
40 carats. 6th division, also fitted with 
diamonds, includes the Saxon order of 
the Rue Garland, and 7 orders of the 
Golden Fleece, &c, &c, &c. 

The Picture Gallery,* the finest 
collection of paintings in Germany, is 
entered on the side of the New Market. 
It is open to the public every day, 
gratis, except Saturday, when you 
may enter by paying, from 9 to 1, and 
Sunday, when it is open from 12|to 3, 
gratis, and without tickets, from May 
1 to October 1. From April 15—30, 
and during October, it is open from 10 
to 4. A traveller may see it on Satur- 
day, by obtaining a ticket, which costs 
5 N.gr. A German catalogue costs 15 
N.gr., a French one 20 N.gr. 

It appears that something like the 
rudiments of a collection were made 
in the reign of Duke George, the 
friend of Lucas Cranach ; but Augus- 
tus II. may be regarded as the founder 
of the Gallery. It was greatly in- 
creased, and received some of its bright- 
est ornaments in the reign of Augustus 
III., who purchased the collection of 
the Duke of Modena, and the famous 
Madonna di San Sisto of Raphael. 
" While lingering among the great 
productions of a captivating art, it is a 
pleasant feeling that they have had the 
rare fortune to be treated with reve- 
rence by every hostile hand. Frederick 
the Great bombarded Dresden, bat- 
tered down its churches, laid its streets 
in ruins, but ordered his cannon and 
mortars to keep clear of the Picture 
Gallery. He entered as a conqueror, 
levied the taxes, administered the go- 
vernment, and, with an affectation of 
humility, asked permission of the cap- 
tive electress to visit the Gallery as a 
stranger. Napoleon's policy, too, led 
him to treat Saxony with much con- 
sideration, and was the guardian angel 
of her pictures. Not one of them 
made the journey to Paris." — Russell's 
Germany. 

* See Kugler's Handbook of Painting, Part I., 
Italian School, edited by Eastlake : and Parts 
II. and III., Germany and Netherlands, France 
and Spain, edited by Sir Edmund Head, Bart. 



446 



ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. TICTURE GALLERY. Sect, VII. 



It is much to be regretted that many 
of the pictures of this gallery, includ- 
ing the Raphael and the Correggios, 
have suifered greatly, first, from neg- 
lect, and, afterwards from injudicious 
cleaning. 



Old 

and 


D. 

German 
Dutch. 


Ff. 

Raphael. 
Correggio- 


E. 1 

Modern 
and 


F. 

Dutch 
German. 


c. 

Dutch. 
Ku- 

BKNS. 


Aa. 

Ferrara. 


COURT 

YARD. 

Ce. 


Ee. 

Neapo- 
litan. 


G. 

Dutch. 
Rem- 
brandt. 


Bb. 

Venice. 
Titian. 


Dd. 

Guido. 


Venetian 

and 
Bolognese 


Milanese 

and 
Gcnevese. 


B. 

Italian 

and 
Spanish. 


A. 

French. 

J Entrance 1 


H. 

Dutch. 



A few of the choicest works are here 
set down, with the view of guiding the 
eye of the spectator in a collection so 
extensive, sparing him the fatigue of 
examining productions less worthy of 
attention, and at the same time reliev- 
ing him from the mortification of hav- 
ing passed over any of acknowledged 
merit. 

Exterior rooms, A to H, contain 
Flemish, Dutch, French, German, and 
Spanish paintings, and room B a few 
Italian. Rooms Aa to Ee of the in- 
terior gallery, and Ff of the exterior, 
contain Italian works only. 

Italian Schools. — No collection out 
of Italy contains a finer Raphael, or 
can compete with this in the works of 
the Venetian masters and Correggio. 

Boom Ff. Raphael's Madonna di 
San Sisto, 1020, is the gem of the 
Dresden Gallery ; a capital painting 
scarcely surpassed by any work of 
Raphael's existing in Italy, and equalled 
by none out of it. It is in his latest 
and best manner, and was executed 
only a few years before his death. The 
sainted Pope Sixtus, from whom the | 



picture is named, is represented on 
the one side gazing with pious and 
trembling awe upon the figure of the 
Virgin, who is soaring up to heaven 
in all the majesty with which the Roman 
Catholic religion has surrounded her, 
bearing in her arms the divine child. 
" The head of the Virgin is perhaps 
nearer the perfection of female beauty 
and elegance than anything in paint- 
ing ; it is truly impressive and beau- 
tiful." — Wilkie. Opposite to the Pope 
kneels St. Barbara; her youthful beauty 
and fervour contrast admirably with 
his aged form. Below this group 
are two angelic children, their coun- 
tenances beaming with innocence and 
intelligence, their eyes up-turned to- 
wards the central figures of the pic- 
ture ; they are among the happiest 
efforts of art. This picture was pur- 
chased from a convent at Piacenza for 
17,000 ducats (about 8000/.). 

Correggio. — Excepting at Parma, 
so many and such excellent works of 
this artist are to be met with nowhere in 
Europe. The following 6 paintings are 
numbered and arranged here according 
to the periods of the artist's life at which 
they were executed, as it is peculiarly 
interesting to watch the change in style 
and the progress to perfection made by 
so great a master in his art : — 1077. 
The Virgin and Child with St. Francis, 
painted, it is said, at the age of 18. 
1082. Portrait of a Man, supposed to 
be the physician of the artist. 1080. 
The far-famed picture of the Virgin and 
infant Jesus in the Manger, known by 
the name of " La Notte" the Mght. 
" Correggio has here converted the 
literal representation of a circumstance 
of sacred history into a divine piece of 
poetry, when he gave us that emanation 
of supernatural light streaming from 
the form of the celestial child, and 
illuminating the ecstatic face of the 
Virgin mother, who bends over her 
infant undazzled ; while another female 
draws back, veiling her eyes with her 
hand, as if unable to endure the ra- 
diance. Far off through the gloom of 
night we see the morning just breaking 
along the eastern horizon — emblem of 
the ' day-spring from on high.' " — Mrs. 
Jamieson. "The Notte of Correggio 






Saxony. 



ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. riCTURE GALLERY. 



447 



is what I expected the most from, and 
the condition of which has given me 
the greatest disappointment. Yet, how 
beautiful the arrangement! All the 
powers of the art are here united to 
make a perfect work. Her the sim- 
plicity of the drawing of the Virgin 
and Child is shown in contrast with 
the foreshortening of the group of 
Angels ; the strongest unity of effect 
with the most perfect system of in- 
tricacy. The emitting the light from 
the child, though a supernatural illu- 
sion, is eminently successful ; it looks 
neither forced nor improbable. What- 
ever the Notte may have been, the hand 
of the picture-cleaner is here manifest ; 
and those who like bright day-light 
effect will have it here to their heart's 
content. Correggio did not, like Rem- 
brandt, in these effects attempt to give 
the colour of lamplight ; the phospho- 
rescent quality of light was more his 
aim, as in his ' Christ in the Garden.' 
But here the light on the Virgin and 
Child is white, chalky, and thin ; and 
the rest of the picture has somewhat 
the poverty of a copy. The group of 
shepherds indeed appear, in character 
and in the beauty of painting, infe- 
rior to the general run of Correggio' s 
figures; the man at the side is even 
coarse. Still, however, the matchless 
beauty of the Virgin and Child, the 
group of Angels over head, the day- 
break in the sky, and the whole ar- 
rangement of light and shadow, give 
it the right to be considered, in con- 
ception at least, the greatest of his 
works. * * It is a rubbed-out pic- 
ture ; yet still, though ' shorn of its 
beams,' it is not less ' than archangel 
ruined.' For the conception, purpose, 
and originality, — as an arrangement 
of colour, effect, and of sentiment, — 
I consider it one of the first works the 
art of painting has to boast of ; and, in 
the adaptation of light and shadow to 
the illusion of the subject, one of the 
triumphs of modern art." — Wilkie. 
This picture was begun about the year 
1522, and is one of the most admirable 
specimens of that masterly management 
of light and shade in which Correggio 
is unrivalled. 1081. Virgin and Child, 
with St. George. The figures of the 



children and woman are particularly 
admired for their grace and sweetness 
of expression. 1079. The recumbent 
Magdalen, one of the sweetest and most 
pleasing, as well as the most faultless 
pictures ever painted. It is distin- 
guished for its peculiar softness of out- 
line, and is executed in the artist's best 
manner. "It is in its pristine con- 
dition ; almost as left by the master, 
without even varnish. The head, neck, 
and arms are beautiful; the face and 
right arm one of the finest pieces of 
painting I have witnessed. The sha- 
dows are extremely loaded ; the lights, 
though painted flat and floating, are, 
compared with them, thin and smooth. 
The background and darks of the pic- 
ture, even the blue drapery, want rich- 
ness and transparency." — Wilkie. 1078. 
The Virgin and Child with St. Sebastian, 
painted about 1528, is one of the most 
striking examples of the master's magic 
chiaro-scuro, remarkable, to use the 
words of an eminent artist, for the 
" exquisite truth of tint in the passage 
from light to dark; so that in this 
picture, as in nature, the spectator is 
soon unconscious of the presence of 
shade," Parmigiano — 1088. Virgin 
and Child, known as the Madonna 
della Eosa. Baroccio — 1093. Hagar 
in the Desert. And. del Sarto — 1058. 
The Sacrifice of Isaac. Giulio Romano — 
1031. Virgin and Child, with a basin. 
1022. A good copy of Raphael's Ma- 
donna della Seggiola. Vicenzio di San 
Gimignano — 1033. A Virgin and Child ; 
an exquisite little picture. Leonardo da 
Vinci — 1051. A portrait attributed to 
him, and called Lewis Sforza in the 
catalogue, is now ascertained to be the 
likeness of a burgomaster of Basle, and 
the work of Holbein : it is admirably 
painted and most carefully finished, 
though in a rather dry manner. Carlo 
Dolce — 1072. St. Cecilia ; one of the 
best pictures of the painter. — 1073. 
Our Saviour blessing the bread, the 
same as the picture of Burleigh. 

Room Aa. Benvenuto Garofalo — 586. 
The Virgin kneeling before the infant 
Saviour, while an Angel appears on the 
opposite side. Bosso Bossi — 596. The 
Fathers of the Church, SS. Gregory, 
Augustine, and Jerome, meditating the 



448 



ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. PICTURE GALLERY. Sect. VII. 



immaculate Conception of the Virgin ; 
a grand work. Giovanni Bellino — 610. 
Christ : a whole-length figure, full of 
majesty. 611. Portrait of the Doge 
Loredano. 

Boom Bh. Titian— 631. The Tri- 
bute Money, known as "II Christo 
della Moneta :" remarkable for the 
richness of colour, fine expression, and 
high finish. 632. The Virgin and 
Child, the Baptist, St. Jerome, and 
St. Paul. Some of the colour is very 
beautiful. 638. Portrait of Pietro 
Aretino. 639. A reclining Venus, 
like that in the Fitzwilliam Museum. 
It has suffered dreadfully from clean- 
ing. 640. Portrait of a young woman 
dressed in white, with a fan, called 
Titian's Mistress. Giorgione — 645. The 
Meeting of Jacob and Rachel. Palma 
Vecchio — 648. The Virgin and infant 
Saviour with St. John : a work of 
fascinating beauty. 651 and 652. 
Holy Families with St. Catherine. 

Boom Cc. Paul Veronese — 689. The 
Finding of Moses. 700. The Adora- 
tion of the Wise Men : a glorious com- 
bination of colour. 701. Christ with 
his Disciples at Emmaus. 730. The 
Virgin and Child enthroned between 
St. John the Baptist and St. Jerome. 
Three female figures, representing 
Faith, Love, and Hope, are presenting 
to the Virgin a Member of the Vene- 
tian family of Concina, who had been 
reconciled to the Church after having 
listened to the doctrines of the Reforma- 
tion. The other members of the family 
accompany him : a masterpiece of the 
artist. Annibal Caracci — 827. Fame 
soaring upwards : very spirited. — 828. 
St. Matthew writing his Gospel under 
the superintendence of the Virgin, with 
St. John and St. Francis. Caravaggio 
—852. The Card-players : full of truth 
and nature. 

Boom Dd. Guido — 871. Bacchus 
as a Child. 875. Venus. Albano — 
888. A Dance of Cupids. Carlo Gignani 
• — 916. Joseph and Potiphar's "Wife : a 
masterpiece. 

Dutch, Flemish, and German Schools. 

The works of the early German and 
Flemish masters here, are far inferior 
to those at Munich, Berlin, and Vi- 
enna ; but in the productions of the 



later period of these schools the Dres- 
den Gallery is very rich indeed. 

Boom D. L. Cranach — 503. Por- 
trait of Luther. 504. Melanchthon. A. 
Durei — 523. A Rabbit, in water-colours: 
excellently done. 524. Portrait of a 
Man in black ; probably of Lucas van 
Leyden. Holbein, the younger — 530. 
Jacob Meyer, burgomaster of Basle, 
with his Family, kneeling before the 
Virgin, " and praying for the recovery 
of his sick child. The Madonna has 
laid down the infant Saviour, and has 
taken in her arms the sickly infant." — 
W.J.F. This is, without doubt, Hol- 
bein's chef-d'oeuvre. 

Boom C. Van Dgk— 429. Charles 
the First. 427. His Queen, Henrietta 
Maria. 428. Their Children, Charles 
II., James II., Henrietta, afterwards 
Duchess of Orleans. 408. Portrait of 
Old Parr, at the age of 151. 405. 
Portrait of the painter David Rykaerts, 
in a fur pelisse, sitting in an arm-chair : 
a fine portrait ; low and brown in tone, 
but broad and powerful. Bubens — 389. 
A Picture known by the name of the 
Garden of Love, or Love punished. 
377. The Judgment of Paris, a small, 
highly finished study, or nearly a repe- 
tition of the picture in our National 
Gallery. 376. The Boar Hunt : a very 
animated sketch. 375. Neptune stilling 
the tempest (called the " Quos ego"), 
upon the passage of the Cardinal Fer- 
dinand of Austria from Spain to Italy. 
371. A Sketch for the large picture of 
the Last Judgment, at Munich. 355. 
Portrait of a young woman in black, 
with flowers in her left hand : a charm- 
ing picture, lights well arranged, flesh 
colour exquisite. Tenters — 254. and 
237. A Village Fete. 250. Temptation 
of St. Anthony ; in which, as in the 
same subject at Berlin, the painter's 
wife and mother-in-law appear. 249. 
The Alchemist's Laboratory. 246. A 
Guard Room. A boy and armour in 
the foreground ; soldiers playing at 
cards behind. One of the most perfect 
of his pictures : clear, delicate, and free 
in execution. 245. Boors smoking, 
drinking, and gambling. 244. Peter 
brought out of Prison by the Angel : 
oddly treated. Van der Werjf — 221. 
Judgment of Paris. 224. Abraham 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. PICTURE GALLERY. 



449 



sending away Hagar. 228. The Artist 
and his Family. Terburg — 210. A 
Soldier writing a letter, for which a 
trumpeter is waiting. 212. A young- 
Lady in white, before a table. Paul 
Potto— 208, 209. Two Cattle-pieces. 
Ruisdael — 197. The Hunt : a wooded 
scene, with a piece of water in the fore- 
ground. The figures are by Van de 
Velde. One of the finest pictures Ruis- 
dael ever painted. 193. The Chateau 
of Bentheim. 187. Landscape, known 
as u the Jews' Burial-ground." 

Room B. Murillo — 111. A Fruit 
Girl. Velasquez — 109. The Conde 
Olivarez. 

Room A. Claude— SO. The Flight 
into Egypt. 31. Acis and Galatea. 
Nic. Poussin — 19. The Adoration of 
the Magi. 21. Moses found by Pha- 
raoh's Daughter. 26. The Sacrifice of 
Noah. 

Room H. Rubens— 1111. The Vint- 
age. 1730. Charles V. crowned by 
Fame. Backhuysen — 1746. Fight be- 
tween the English and Dutch Fleets. 
Both — 1803. Landscape : in the fore- 
ground, two men on horseback. 

Room G. Ferdinand Bol — 1623. Jo- 
seph presenting his Father to Pharaoh : 
worthy of Rembrandt. 1624. The 
Repose in Egypt. Rembrandt — 1578. 
Portrait of his Mother ; she is weigh- 
ing gold. 1569. The Entombment of 
Christ. 1570. Landscape. 1554. His 
own Portrait, with his Wife sitting on 
his knee, and a glass of wine in his 
hand. 1552. His daughter, holding a 
carnation : a charming picture. Wou- 
vermann. — There are no less than 55 
pictures by him, among which are many 
of his best works, as, 1517. The Horse 
Market. 1523. The Camp. 1601. 
The Horse Market. 1604. Horsemen 
at an Inn. 1606. A Fair. 1611. The 
Halt. 1612. The Mill. 1641. Skir- 
mish of Cavalry, and several battle- 
pieces. F. Mieris — 1317. A Soldier 
smoking. 1320. An old Man mending 
a Pen. _ 1321. A travelling Tinker 
scrutinising a worn-out Kettle : one 
of the artist's finest works. 1322 and 
1323. The Artist in his Studio. Gerard 
Dow — 1334. A Dentist drawing a Boy's 
Tooth. 1337. Portrait of the Artist 
drawing. 1342. A Hermit in a Cave : 



elaborately finished. 1343. The Artist 
himself, when young, playing on a 
Violin. Netscher — 1347. The Artist's 
own Portrait. 1348. A Lady playing, 
while a Man by her side is singing. 
1351, 1352. Portraits of Madame de 
Montespan : in the latter is her son, 
the Duke of Maine. Schalken — 1358. 
A Girl examining an Egg at a Candle. 
Ad. Ostade — 1366. The Painter in his 
Studio. 1367. Interior of a Dutch 
Tavern. Two of the painter's best 
productions. M etzu— 1387. The Poul- 
try-woman. 1388. The Poultry-man. 
Slingeland — 1394. A Poultry-dealer 
offering a young Woman a Fowl. W. 
Mieris — 1462. A Gipsy telling a young- 
Woman her Fortune. 1466. A Man 
blowing a Trumpet. 1467. A Dealer 
in Game. 

Room F. Denner — 1225. Head of an 
old Woman, with a piece of white dra- 
pery on her head. Swanefelt — 1288. A 
good landscape. 

Modem Works: — The Portraits of 2 
children, a popular picture, by Vogel 
the elder, a Saxon artist. Gerard's Por- 
trait of Napoleon in his coronation robes, 
is historically interesting. A large 
series of drawings in crayon (pastel) 
are hung between the windows in 
several rooms. The best are the fol- 
lowing, by Raphael Mengs : — 26. 
Cupid sharpening his Arrows, is ex- 
cellent; — and 2. his own Portrait. 
22. La Belle Chocolatiere, a waitress 
at a coffee-house in Vienna, and a 
celebrated beauty of the last century, 
who married into a high Austrian 
family (the Dietrichsteins), by Liotard, 
in crayons. The remainder are, for the 
most part, by Rosalba Carriera, a 
female artist of Venice, and of inferior 
merit. 

Below the Picture Gallery is a Col- 
lection of Plaster Casts of the most 
famous antique statues known. They 
are called the Mengsischen Abgiisse, hav- 
ing been made by and under the su- 
perintendence of the celebrated artist 
Raphael Mengs. " Besides perfect ac- 
curacy, many parts of the figure, such 
as the hair, are finished with a much 
higher degree of industry and precision 
than is usually found in this department 
of the plastic art." — Russell. 



450 



ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. THE ZWINGER. MUSEUM. Sect. VII. 



Amongst other interesting objects is 
a group representing Menelaus carrying 
away the body of Patroclus, put to- 
gether and restored from antique frag- 
ments in the Pitti Palace at Florence. 
The exertion and muscular display of 
the one figure, contrasted with the im- 
potent lifeless limbs of the other, are 
not to be surpassed. The Boy on the 
Dolphin, by Raphael (?) : the original 
was in Lord Bristol's collection in Ire- 
land ; cast of Venus, and colossal bust 
of Juno (Ludovisi), also deserve atten- 
tion. 

A new Picture Gallery is now (1851) 
building on the JST.E. side of the Zwin- 
ger, from the designs by Prof. Semper, 
architect of the new theatre, who took 
part in the street rebellion of 1849, and 
was obliged to fly. As it will not be 
sufficiently large to contain the whole 
collection, the best works only will be 
deposited in it. The exterior is com- 
pleted, but it is uncertain when it will 
be ready for the reception of the pic- 
tures. The plaster casts of Mengs, and 
perhaps other similar collections, are to 
be placed in this new " Museum." 

The Zwinger. — This building, erected 
in 1711, was intended merely as the 
fore-court and entrance-yard to a new 
and magnificent palace, designed by 
Augustus II., but never carried fur- 
ther. It is an enclosure consisting of 
an arcade, which, with the portal in 
front, are light and handsome, but sur- 
mounted by heavy and inelegant pa- 
vilions at the sides. During the street 
revolt of May, 1849, the S. E. angle of 
the Zwinger was burned down, and re- 
mains a vast ruin. The building is now 
occupied by the following collections : — 
1. The Historical Museum. 2. Museum 
of Natural History. 3. Cabinet of 
Prints and Drawings. 

1. The Historical Museum (His- 
torisches Museum, formerly called Rust- 
kammer — Armoury) is well arranged in 
the N. wing of the Zwinger. It is 
opened to the public only twice a week, 
in the summer months, on Monday 
and Thursday, from 8 to 12, and 2 to 6, 
by tickets, only 36 of which are given 
out at a time, so that the best way to 
see it is to pay the fee of two dollars, 
and make an appointment with the in- 



spector for a private view at other 
hours. 

This is undoubtedly one of the finest 
collections of the kind in Europe. 
Though less interesting, as an histo- 
rical collection, it surpasses the Am- 
bras collection at Vienna in armour of 
rich and studied workmanship, and 
leaves the Armoury in the Tower of 
London very far behind. It contains 
all the weapons, offensive and defensive, 
of chivalrous warfare ; all the trappings 
and accoutrements of the tournament 
and other wild sports of feudal ages. 
Wealth and skill appear to have been 
exhausted in the materials and deco- 
ration of the armour. The elaborate 
workmanship in gold, silver, and ivory 
expended on the smaller arms, as the 
hilts of swords, stocks of guns, bits and 
stirrups, the rich damasking of the 
plate armour and gun-barrels, and the 
carving and inlaid work so profusely 
bestowed, are sufficient to excite wonder 
and admiration. There are no suits in 
it older than the time of our Henry 
VIII. ; but several of Queen Eliza- 
beth's period, for man and horse, are 
covered with reliefs executed in the 
richest style. 

The 1st room contains specimens 
of painted glass of the 16th and 17th 
centuries; portraits of the Saxon princes 
of the Ernestine and Albertine dynas- 
ties. Those of Albert and his wife are 
by L. Cranach : the rest are for the 
most part copies. 

Around the room are arranged many 
articles of old furniture, cabinets, &c, 
almost all of which are ascertained to 
have belonged to the worthies whose 
effigies now decorate the walls. The 
work-table of the Electress Anne 
(1585) may interest the ladies. A 
cabinet given to Martin Luther by his 
friend the Elector John Frederick, 
containing relics of the great reformer ; 
together with a small sacramental cup, 
of silver gilt and ebony, which was 
presented to him by the Elector. A 
great number of ancient drinking ves- 
sels, horns, goblets, cups, for all varie- 
ties of potations : — the reader of Walter 
Scott will be pleased to discover among 
them the type of the blessed bear of 
Bra&war&me. 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. ARMOURY. 



451 



The 2nd room is filled with imple- 
ments of sports, pastimes, the chase, 
gardening, turning, &c. ; spears, knives, 
bows, hunting-horns, and game-bags. 
A carved hunting-horn of ivory (12th 
cent. ?) ; the hunting-knife and horn 
of Henri IV. of France ; the cross- 
bow of the Elector Maurice (d. 1 653) ; 
of John Frederick, 1554, ornamented 
with a representation of Orpheus on 
one side, and a chase on the other. 
Game-bags embroidered by princesses ; 
a collection of dogs' collars, arranged 
in chronological order from the time of 
Henry the Pious, 1541, to John George 
I., 1656. 

3rd. Gallery of Tournament, occu- 
pied almost entirely with parade arms 
and armour, employed in the tilts and 
tournaments of the times of chivalry. 
Of a collection of swords here shown, 
the oldest is a French blade, bearing 
the date 1293. The labour and skill 
bestowed on the ornaments of some of 
the sword-hilts should not be over- 
looked. In this gallery of iron statues, 
horse and foot, the most remarkable 
suits are — one, probably of the 16 th 
cent., a present to the Elector from 
Philip Emanuel, Duke of Savoy. Near 
it is a black suit worn at the burial of 
the Elector, Augustus I. A knight, 
in black armour, on horseback, usually 
formed part of the funeral procession of 
the Saxon princes ; several black suits 
in the collection have been made or 
used for this purpose. In the same 
way, on gala-days and at great festivi- 
ties, such as the accession, marriage, or 
the like event in the life of a Saxon 
prince, a knight in a suit of gold and 
silver armour, as gaily and as splen- 
didly decorated as possible, made part 
of the show. On these joyous occasions, 
the horse was called Gala Horse (Freude 
Pferd), and on the more mournful, 
Mourning Horse (Trauer Pferd). 

A suit of armour (No. 316) for 
man and horse, manufactured in Italy, 
is hardly to be surpassed in the elabo- 
rate workmanship with which it is 
decorated. Its surface is covered with 
reliefs, representing the Labours of 
Hercules, the Golden Fleece, Theseus 
and Ariadne, and similar mythological 
subjects, all evincing the hand of a 



masterly artist. Another suit, of iron 
and copper gilt, was made, 1599, by 
Colman, an armourer at Augsburg, for 
Christian II. 

Several shields and helmets of iron, 
beautifully chased, and ornamented with 
reliefs, such as are usually employed 
only in decorating plate or other ar- 
ticles formed of the precious metals. It 
is well known that the invention and 
taste in design of the most talented 
artists was called in to aid the skill of 
the armourers of those days. 

Near the end of the room are several 
tilting suits. Two of these in par- 
ticular deserve notice. They are the 
complete equipment of two knights on 
horseback for the more earnest species 
of tournament, the duel (Scharfrennen, 
Germ.), which sometimes ended in the 
death of one of the parties. The 
weight of each of these tilting suits is 
nearly 2 cwt. They are so ponderous 
and unwieldy, that the slightest motion 
was hardly possible ; the wearer could 
not even turn his head, but must con- 
tent himself with looking straight for- 
ward through the scanty opening of his 
heavy helmet. The suits consist of a 
breastplate, to which is attached a 
shield, and over it a black target of 
wood, still bearing the dents of the 
lance, and a back-piece. To this was 
screwed a sort of hook, serving as a 
rest for the lance, attached to the saddle 
behind. Without this provision it 
would have hardly been possible to 
support, in a horizontal position, the 
heavy lances used in the tournament. 
The thighs were not encased, but pro- 
tected by two shields, or pieces of iron, 
projecting from the saddle on each side. 
The inspection of these very interesting 
suits will give a far better insight into 
the nature of a tournament than the 
best description. The two different 
kinds of lance in use at the tournament 
are here exhibited, one pointed, and 
intended to pierce through both armour 
and wearer, and used only in the com- 
bat for life and death ; the other ending 
in several small spikes, and intended to 
attach itself to the outside of the ar- 
mour, when driven against it. 

The 4th room. Another long gal- 
lery is filled with warlike arms for 



452 



ROUTE 87. DRESDEN. ARMOURY. 



Sect. VII. 



use in the field, not for show, less pon- 
derous and unwieldy than the pre- 
ceding. A large part have heen worn 
in battle. Many of the suits were 
made for Saxon princes, and other 
historical characters, and are chronolo- 
gically arranged. The first is that of 
George the Bearded, Duke of Saxony. 
Near it is the sword of Thomas Miinzer, 
the leader of the rebellious peasants in 
Thuringia, in 1525 ; a character who 
united the knavery of Jack Cade with 
the religious madness of the chiefs of 
the Covenanters in Scotland. The 
armour of Henry the Pious ; of John 
Frederick the Magnanimous, worn by 
him when taken prisoner at Muhlberg, 
1547. There are 3 suits of the Elec- 
tor Maurice ; near them is preserved 
the blood-stained scarf which he wore 
at the battle of Sievershausen, and the 
bullet fired (according to tradition) by 
a traitor on his own side, which killed 
him, 1553. The fluted armour of 
Christian I. is very handsome. Near 
it is the sword with which the Chan- 
cellor Crell was beheaded, in spite of 
Queen Elizabeth's intercession on his 
behalf. It bears the motto, " Cave 
Calviniane." 

The figure which stands 11th in the 
•row of Saxon princes is that of the 
Elector John George, who was a 
leader in the Thirty Years' War. The 
15th, a brown suit, is the armour of 
Gustavus Adolphus, which he left at 
Weissenfels before the battle of Liit- 
.zen (in the fight he wore a suit of buff 
leather, now preserved at Vienna). 
The marshal's staves of his opponents, 
Counts Tilly and Pappenheim, are 
also preserved here. 

Among the most interesting histo- 
rical- relics is the scale armour worn by 
the heroic John Sobieski, at the siege 
of Vienna in 1683 ; near it are dis- 
played the trophies, arms, horse-tail 
standards, &c, gained by the detach- 
ment of Saxon troops who fought under 
the Duke of Lorraine on that occasion. 
Their commander, the Elector of Sax- 
ony (whose armour is also here), "was 
the first who planted a Christian flag in 
the Turkish camp. Farther on is the 
cuirass of Augustus II., surnamed the 
Strong, weighing 100 lbs. It would be 



difficult to find a man at present who 
could ^ walk in his armour, "which you 
can hardly raise from the ground; or 
wear his cap, which encloses an iron 
hat, heavier than a caldron. But 
Augustus, if you believe the Saxons, 
was a second Samson." He is said to 
have "lifted a trumpeter in full armour 
and held him aloft in the palm of his 
hand — to have twisted the iron banister 
of a stair into a rope — and to have 
made love to a coy beauty by pre- 
senting in one hand a bag of gold, and 
breaking with the other a horse-shoe." 
— Russell's Germany. 

Against the walls and pillars of this 
room are arranged a variety of swords 
and other weapons, many of which are 
remarkable for their workmanship, 
others for their history. Battle-axes 
and maces of various dates and patterns. 
A dagger which, after being thrust into 
the body, separates into three parts on 
touching a spring, so that it would be 
impossible to extract it from a wound. 
A short sword, notched on one side, in- 
tended to catch the blade of an adver- 
sary, and break it short off before it 
could be disengaged. The dagger of 
Rudolph of Swabia, who lost his hand 
while raising it to wound his brother, 
the Emperor Henry IV., in a single 
combat at Merseburg, 1080. The 
workmanship is very fine. 

The weapons with which the Bohe- 
mian peasants armed themselves during 
the Hussite War consist of flails shod 
with iron ; a Polish battle-scythe, of 
the period of Kosciusko's revolution 
— a most fearful weapon, which with 
one blow might cleave horseman and 
horse in twain; the sword of Don 
John of Austria, who commanded at 
Lepanto. 

The 5th room contains fire-arms, 
from their earliest invention in Europe. 
One of the oldest weapons of this kind 
is a rude sort of pistol, supposed to 
date from the end of the 15th cent., a 
mere iron barrel, 11 1 inches long, 
with a touchhole in the side. It was 
fired not by a flint falling upon- steel, 
but by the friction of a file upon a 
piece of firestone (pyrites). The file 
was inserted in a groove by the side of 
the touchhole, it was then covered with 



■Saxony. route 87. — Dresden, armoury, museum. 



453 



powder, and the firestonc screwed down 
tightly in contact with it. "When the 
file was smartly drawn out, the friction 
served to ignite the powder. The first 
step of improvement after this was a 
pistol fired by means of a piece of lighted 
tow ; then came the wheel-lock, and 
afterwards the falling-lock with flint 
and steel. Specimens of all these va- 
rieties are preserved here ; also the 
pistols of Maurice of Saxony, splen- 
didly inlaid with silver and ivory. 
Another pair, remarkable for their 
plainness, belonged to Charles XII. of 
Sweden, and were borne by him on the 
day of his death at Frederickshal. 

6th. This room is filled with costly 
stuffs used at the coronations and other 
festivities of Augustus II. and III., 
Kings of Poland; trappings and harness 
for horses, of most rich materials; 
splendidly embroidered bits and stir- 
rups, and housings for sledge-horses, 
&c, on which the most elaborate orna- 
ments have been expended. One set 
of harness is of gold, spendidly ena- 
melled, set with rubies ; another of 
silver set with pearls. In the 4 large 
cabinets are the state costumes of 
princes from the 16th to the 18th cent., 
and in 2 smaller ones are shoes of dif- 
ferent nations ; also those of Kant and 
Wieland, and the boots of Murat ; 
likewise mitres worn by the bishops 
of Meissen. 

The 7th room is fitted up with a 
Turkish tent, taken at the siege of 
Vienna, 1683 ; and its contents are 
chiefly Turkish and Eastern arms. 

8th. Includes an ethnographical col- 
lection; the garments and weapons of 
various barbarous and savage nations, 
partly formed by Prof. Poppig in S. 
America, — as hammocks, clubs, poi- 
soned arrows, shooting tubes, dresses of 
coloured feathers, teeth, and claws, 
arms of the S. Sea Islanders, &c. 

9th. Contains riding equipments and 
parade trappings. Among the historical 
relics in the last and splendidly orna- 
mented apartments are, the robes worn 
by Augustus the Strong at his corona- 
tion as King of Poland. By the side 
of them, as it were to show his claim to 
the by-name of " the Strong," is kept 
the horse-shoe which he broke in two 



between his fingers ; together with the 
written testimony of those who were 
witnesses of this feat of strength. The 
swords deposited here are among the 
chief ornaments of the collection ; the 
iron hilts being of carved work, exe- 
cuted at Nuremberg with surprising 
correctness ; there are several hundred 
of them. The little cocked hat of Peter 
the Great, and a wooden bowl, turned 
with his own hand, are among the curi- 
osities here. Last of all, here may be 
seen a saddle of red velvet, which be- 
longed to Napoleon ; the boots which 
he wore at the battle of Dresden, which 
seem to have sadly needed cobbling ; 
and the satin shoes worn by him at his 
coronation. 

Electrotypes of the objects of this 
collection are made of various sizes by 
the inspector, Mr. Biittner. There is 
also a collection of 2000 guns of va- 
rious fashions and ages, which may in- 
terest sportsmen and soldiers, and a 
series of twenty pictures representing 
tournaments, with dates and descrip- 
tions, 

The Museum of Natural History, oc- 
cupying the lower story of one side of 
the Zwinger, is shown gratis from 
April to October, on Wednesdays and 
Saturdays : — the minerals from 9 to 
12 ; the zoology from 3 to 6 ; by tickets, 
only 15 of which are given out at once. 
A fee of 2 dollars will procure admittance 
at other times, if intimation be sent to 
the curators. 

This collection is not on a par with 
many others on the continent, and is 
kept in a very slovenly state, but still 
contains some objects which a person 
interested in science would be sorry to 
have missed. When the Opera-house 
of the Palace was burnt, during the 
insurrection of 3rd to 9th May, 1849, a 
part of this wing of the Zwinger was 
destroyed, containing the cabinet of 
stuffed birds, and the valuable Herba- 
rium of Prof. Reichhard. 

Minerals. — The specimens from the 
Saxon Mines, of the ores of silver, co- 
balt, lead, and iron, are very complete, 
especially those from Freiberg and the 
Erzgebirge. One specimen of native 
silver formed part of a mass of pure 
metal large enough to serve as a dinner- 



454 ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. MUSEUM. JAPANESE PALACE. Sect. VII. 



table for the Elector, when he visited 
the Schneeberg mine, in which it was 
found. 

The collection of fossils is large. The 
specimens of petrified monocotyledon- 
ous plants from Chemnitz deserve par- 
ticular notice. Among them is an 
enormous tree, 5^ ft. diameter, petrified 
root and branch. Another curiosity is a 
tube, many feet long, formed by light- 
ning falling upon a bed of sand, which 
has been partially melted by the electric 
fluid, wherever it took its course. It 
was found behind the baths of Link. 
The like have been discovered in Eng- 
land and other parts of the world. 

Zoology. — This part of the museum, 
scarcely worth visiting, has been neg- 
lected, and is not very complete. As 
curiosities, we may mention the horse 
of Augustus II., stuffed. Its tail mea- 
sures 24 ft. ; its mane, 16 ft. Two of 
his dogs are also preserved here. One 
is 3 ft. high, and measures 5 ft. from 
the snout to the tail. The other is 5 
in. long, and 1-J in. high. The beaver 
from the Elbe, the horns of a stag em- 
bedded in the centre of the trunk of a 
tree, and a Guanche mummy, also 
merit notice. 

Cabinet of Engravings (Kupferstich- 
Sammlung) is shown to artists and 
amateurs on Tuesdays, from 8 to 12, by 
tickets, which are given out in limited 
numbers by the curator. Strangers who\ 
wish to see it at other times must secure 
the attendance of the manager, M. 
Frenzel. That amiable and erudite 
gentleman will give every information 
respecting it. On such occasions a fee 
of 3 dollars (for a party) is usually put 
into the hands of his attendant. 

This is " one of the most complete 
collections of copper-plates in Europe, 
containing every thing that is interest- 
ing in the history of the art, or valuable 
from practical excellence, and forms a 
supplement to the Picture Gallery. The 
oldest is of the date 1466, and is said to 
be the earliest yet known. Whoever 
wishes to study the history of this beau- 
tiful art, and to be initiated in the mys- 
teries of connoisseurship, can find no 
better school than the cabinet of Dres- 
den. It overflows with materials, and 
is under the direction of a gentleman 



who not only seems to be thoroughly 
master of his occupation, but has the 
much rarer merit of being in the highest 
degree particularly attentive and com- 
municative . ' ' — Russell, 

There are 300,000 engravings in 
this collection. It is rich in the early 
German masters, Mechenen, Schoen- 
gauer, Albert Diirer, Wohlgemuth, 
&c., and has some valuable Marc An- 
tonios. 

The 50 portfolios of Drawings by the 
old masters, especially of the early Ger- 
man, Flemish, and Dutch schools, form 
a very interesting and prominent por- 
tion of this cabinet. There is, besides, 
a most valuable collection, unique pro- 
bably of its kind, of portraits, to the 
number of nearly 450, of all the most 
distinguished characters of the 19th 
cent, in Europe — sovereigns and royal 
families, statesmen and generals, artists 
and men of eminence in science and 
literature, all find a place here. They 
have been taken from the life by Prof. 
Vogel of Dresden, are drawn with a mas- 
terly pencil, and the likenesses are per- 
fect. Several of the most eminent 
artists of our own country are included 
in the series. 

The Japanese Palace, situated in 
the Neustadt, on the rt. bank of the 
Elbe, close to the Leipzig gate, was 
built by Augustus II., as a summer re- 
sidence. It receives its name from some 
grotesque oriental figures and orna- 
ments with which it is decorated. It 
now serves only the purposes of a 
Museum, and contains the following 
collections : — 

1. The Museum of Antiquities 
(Antihensammlung). 2. The Library. 
3. The Collection of Porcelain and Terra 
Cottas. 

1. The Antiquities, open Wednesday 
and Saturday, from 9 to 1, from the 1st 
of May to the 31st of Oct., are placed 
on tbe l.-hand side of the entrance 
hall, on the ground-floor. A traveller 
fresh from the galleries of Pome and 
Florence may perhaps be disposed to 
despise this collection, which indeed 
ranks after that at Munich, «fcc, and 
has moreover suffered both from the 
ignorant mutilations of a barbarous age, 
and from the reparations and restora- 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN". ANTIQUITIES. 



455 



tions of a more enlightened period. 
Nevertheless, there are many objects 
of high interest, both in point of art 
and as illustrations of antiquity. A 
new catalogue is promised. The 
numbers stood as follows in October, 
1849. 

In the 1st hall are modern works in 
bronze, and marble, and copies. In 
the 2nd hall are one or two modern 
works which deserve notice, as, 53. A 
bronze bust of Gustavus Adolphus, 
made from a cast taken after his death 
— 55. A bust of Charles I. of England 
— 54. A bust of Cardinal Richelieu, of 
bronze, a characteristic likeness, of good 
workmanship — 99. Deianira carried off 
by the Centaur, in bronze, the work of 
John of Bologna. 

Third Hall. No. 115. A head of 
Niobe, like the one at Florence, and, 
though inferior to it, showing that 
beautiful expression of intense mental 
agony, of which, it is said, the masters 
of the Bolognese school sometimes 
availed themselves in their representa- 
tions of the Virgin, especially in those 
paintings of the Descent from the Cross, 
or burial of the Saviour, in which the 
body lies in the Virgin's arms. 116. 
A female bronze head, bust of coloured 
marble, called the eldest daughter of 
Niobe. 142.. A quadrangular altar with 
niches for Lares. 143. A Torso of Pal- 
las Promachos, known as the Dresden 
Minerva. She is clad in the peplus, 
woven for her by Athenian virgins. 
A strip in front, representing rich em- 
broidery, is divided into 11 compart- 
ments, the subjects being the battles of 
the Goddess with the Titans. 141 is a 
restoration of 143, in clay, by Prof. 
Rauch of Berlin. 

Fifth Hall. 169. Cupid playing with 
a Lion is not very remarkable for exe- 
cution, but the design is captivating 
and the expression pleasing. 191. Mi- 
nerva represented as the goddess who 
presided over the intellectual part of 
warfare, Greek strategy, and tactics. 
(Mars was the god of wild combats 
and battles.) The figure is somewhat 
masculine in its shape and proportions 
— there is more of manhood than wo- 
manhood in the appearance of her broad 
shoulders and narrow hips. The iEgis 



is thrown on carelessly and awry. 201. 
A triangular pedestal of a candelabrum, 
of Pentelic marble. The relief carved 
on one side represents Hercules with- 
held by Apollo from carrying off the 
sacred tripod from Delphi ; on another 
side is the reconsecration of the restored 
tripod ; on the 3rd is the consecration of 
a sacred torch. They are executed in 
the style called Eginetan. This speci- 
men is curious, as showing the early 
progress of the art. The faces are all 
alike, and without expression ; the dra- 
peries are stiff, and the hair resembles 
a coil of rope. 209. A Young "Wrestler. 
210. Ampelos, or Satyriscus, in the at- 
titude of pouring wine. There are 3 
other statues of the same Faun in the 
collection. This far surpasses the others 
in beauty of workmanship. 

Sixth Hall. 260,261,262. ALady 
of Herculaneum and her 2 Daughters, 
found in an almost perfect state in the 
theatre of Herculaneum— very fine and 
noble figures. They are interesting as 
showing the costume of a Roman lady, 
still more so as specimens of the per- 
fect treatment of draperies by ancient 
artists. 

Seventh Hall. 283 . Torso of a wounded 
Gladiator, nearly in the attitude of the 
Dying Gladiator. This is a fragment 
of great value. It is executed in the 
most finished style of art ; and the ana- 
tomy, especially of the back, is acknow- 
ledged to be unequalled for accuracy, 
303. One of the sons of Mobe lying 
dead. A fine repetition of a well known 
statue. 

Eighth Hall. 349-352. Statues of 
4 Romans engaged in the game of Ball 
(pila). They were at one time errone- 
ously called Gladiators, and are so re- 
stored, with sword-hilts in their hands ; 
but these are nobles of the time of 
Hadrian, not slaves. 351 represents the 
Empr. Hadrian. 

Ninth Hall. 359. Bust of Caligula 
in red porphyry. The effigy of this 
emperor is rare, as most of his statues 
were destroyed after his death from 
hatred of his cruelty while living. 383. 
Venus in the attitude of the Medicean. 
The upper part down to the knees, ex- 
cept the hand, is antique. The back of 
this statue is considered by good judges 



456 



ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. CHINA. LIBRARY. Sect. VII. 



little inferior in exquisite finish to that 
of the far-famed Venus at Florence. 
384. An Athlete anointing himself. 
386. Ariadne, ahandoned by Theseus, 
is regarding him with reproachful looks 
as he departs. The head is modern, 
but the expression of it is good. The 
shoulders are exquisite. 

The end of the 10th Hall represents 
one side of a Columbarium, and here 
and in the adjoining room are some 
Egyptian, Etruscan, and Eoman anti- 
quities. 

The Collection of Porcelain and Terra 
Cottas (Porzellan Sammlung), on the 
sunken floor of the Japanese Palace. It 
consists of more than 60,000 pieces of 
china, occupies 20 apartments, which 
are not well lighted, and the MS. cata- 
logue of it fills 5 folio volumes. 

Besides a large collection embracing 
the earliest as well as the finest produc- 
tions of native Saxon manufacture, there 
is an immense quantity of Chinese and 
Japanese specimens of an old date, but 
a deficiency in the later and finer quali- 
ties. Some of the earlier brown ware 
was turned in a lathe and polished. 
There is some Italian and Sevres ware, 
but the European porcelain is chiefly 
that of Meissen, of which many dupli- 
cates have been sold to obtain specimens 
of other manufactures. This collection 
contains the earliest attempts of Botti- 
cher, the alchymist, who is said to have 
made the discovery whilst seeking for 
the philosopher's stone. The ware 
which he produced, and which led to 
the discovery of true porcelain, is an 
imperfect opaque porcelain, coloured, 
by means of oxide of iron in the clay, 
of a brown or reddish hue.* The ori- 
ginal collection suffered greatly in the 
Seven Years' War, when Dresden was 
occupied by the Prussians and Russians. 
Dr. Klemme, the intelligent director, 
has taken great pains in the arrange- 
ment of this collection in its present 
place. 

At the entrance near the staircase are 
2 leopards as large as life, a colossal 
bust of Augustus the Strong, and a nose- 
gay. The Chinese and Japanese Porce- 

* A very full account of the curiosities of 
the Dresden China Gallery will be found in 
Marryat's Pottery. 



lain occupies 1 1 rooms — a part consists of 
figures of animals of all sorts, grotesques, 
&c. &c. The Japanese vases are of great 
size and price, the antiquities of Chi- 
nese porcelain manufacture highly curi- 
ous. " Two plain yellow plates, and 
one broken one of the same colour, are 
the greatest rarity in the whole collec- 
tion, as this class of ware is made for 
the use of ' His Celestial Majesty' alone, 
and the exportation of them is prohi- 
bited under pain of death." — Ld. F. A 
number of beautiful objects in biscuit, 
such as busts, figures from the antique, 
groups, the model of a monument to 
Augustus III. A nosegay of flowers of 
very delicate workmanship, of a more 
recent date, and of European origin. 
Several specimens of French china from 
Sevres were the gift of Napoleon ; 
among them are splendid vases, with 
paintings illustrating the events of his 
life, &c. &c. 

There are several services of china. 
One variety is called Krack or serpent 
China, and is very valuable. The 
Italian earthenware is ornamented with 
paintings founded on the designs of 
Raphael, though not actually executed 
by him (Majolica). One set of china 
contained in this collection was given 
to the Elector Augustus II., by Frede- 
rick I. of Prussia, in exchange for a com- 
pany of grenadiers fully equipped. 

In the 17th room are Etruscan, Greek, 
and Roman vases ; German urns from 
tumuli ; Persian and American pottery. 
In the 18th, specimens illustrating the 
history of the art of pottery in Europe 
from the 12th to the 19th cent. 

There is a depot for the sale of Dres- 
den China in the town (in the Augustus 
Strasse). The manufactory is at Meis- 
sen. (See p. 439.) 

The Library, in the first floor of the 
Japanese Palace, contains about 300,000 
volumes, 2800 MSS., and a very large 
collection of maps. It is open every 
week-day from 9 to 1, and is exceedingly 
well arranged. All persons are allowed 
to consult and peruse books in the 
reading-room. The inhabitants are 
permitted to take books home with them, 
a privilege also extended to strangers 
who can get some respectable inhabitant 
of Dresden to come forward as seeuritv 



Saxony. route 87. — Dresden, library, statues. 



457 



for them. Strangers may see the 
curiosities of this library any time they 
please, by sending a previous intimation 
of a few hrs. to the librarian. 

There are about 2000 early printed 
books, from the invention of printing to 
the end of the 15th cent. Among the 
MSS. are— a Greek MS. of the 10th 
cent., interlined with Latin, supposed 
to have been written in Ireland, one of 
the greatest curiosities. Alb. Diirer's 
Treatise on the Proportions of the 
Human Body, in his own hand- writing, 
and ornamented with his sketches (1528), 
a work deserving the notice of every 
artist. 3 volumes, representing the 
tournaments held in Dresden from 1487 
to 1564, are curious. A volume filled 
with miniatures of the most celebrated 
and learned men of the 15th and 16th 
cent., drawn, it is conjectured, by the 
younger Cranach. Several volumes of 
autograph letters, among which are 
some of Luther, Melancthon, Grotius, 
Sixtus V., andBianca Capello. Among 
the Oriental MSS. is an 8-sided Koran, 
and another which belonged to Sultan 
Bajazet. A Mexican MS., with hiero- 
glyphics, curiously painted on aloe- 
leaves. The Gospels, written in the 
12th cent., with vignettes in the style 
of Greek art. A collection of Fables 
in Arabic, with miniatures. A Mexi- 
can MS., containing, it is supposed, the 
genealogy of the gods and kings of that 
country. A collection, in 19 volumes, 
folio, made by Frederick Augustus II., 
of portraits of the princes and princess- 
es living in the 17th cent., most care- 
fully coloured, with maps of various 
countries, and plans of the principal 
towns, said to have cost 20,000 dollars. 
King Rene of Anjou's work on Tour- 
naments, with drawings. The Bible 
translated into Bohemian, in the 14th 
cent., and written upon parchment 
in the middle of the 15th. Item Dr. 
Faustus' s conj uring book . A very large 
apartment is occupied by European 
History : that of Saxony is particularly 
complete. 

The Gardens attached to the Japa- 
nese Palace are very agreeable. They 
are open to the public, and extend down 
to the margin of the Elbe, whence the 
view is pleasing, including the bridge 
[N. G.] 



and many of the finest buildings in the 
town. 

Monumental Statues. — Augustus II. 
on horseback, in the new town, near 
the end of the bridge, made of ham- 
mered copper. The Elector Maurice in 
the Boulevard in the Alstadt, nearly 
opposite the Zeughaus (Arsenal). The 
late King Frederick Augustus, of bronze, 
in the centre of the Z winger, by Rietschel. 
In the promenade in the Anton Stadt is 
a colossal bust of King Anthony. 

The collection of Herr v. Quandt, 
in the Neustadt, contains interesting 
works by Taddio Gaddi, Fiesole, Lip- 
pi, Francia (a Lucre tia), Moretto (the 
Virgin as she appeared at Brescia 1533), 
Overbeck, Veit, Schnorr, &c. — R. 

A new Theatre has been built near 
the Catholic Church, from the designs of 
Prof. Semper. It holds 1700 persons, 
and, both within and without, is one of 
the handsomest in Germany, and well 
managed. It is open daily, beginning 
in winter at 6, in summer at 6-^, and 
ending between 9 and 10. The opera 
here is good (see § 42). During the 
summer the performances take place 
sometimes in the theatre of the Link- 
esche Bad. There is a new minor 
theatre in Reisewitz Garten, just before 
entering the Plauensche Grund. 

Since 1830 the meetings of the two 
Chambers of Estates (Landstande), 
which form the parliament of Saxony, 
have been open to the public. The 
Chambers (Landhaus) are situated in the 
Pirnaische Gasse. 

Clubs. There is an excellent club 
called the Ressource, to which strangers 
are admitted freely ; there is a good re- 
staurant in the house, where you may 
dine a la carte. Admittance to read 
the newspapers at the reading-room 
(Literarisches Museum) is easily ob- 
tained : Alt Markt, No. 6, 1st floor. 

The best shops are in the Schloss Gasse 
and Alt Markt. Fietta's cafe, at the 
corner of the Alt Markt and Schloss 
Gasse, is much frequented. Baldini, in 
the Alt Markt, is a good confectioner. 

Cafe's. Those on the Bruhl Terrace, 
especially the Cafe Reale and the Bel- 
vedere, are much frequented in summer. 
The Cafe Reale has two wings; that 
nearest the bridge is for ladies, in which 

X 



458 



EOUTE 87. — DRESDEN. OUTSKIRTS. 



Sect. VII. 



smoking is prohibited, on the opposite 
side it is allowed. Smoking is allowed 
on the ground floor at the Belvedere, but 
not in the supper room up stairs. Very 
fair instrumental music may often be 
heard at the Belvedere in summer 
evenings. 

Eilposten, &c., daily to Teplitz and 
Carlsbad, to Freiberg and Chemnitz, 
to Zwickau — four times a week to An- 
naberg. 

Railroad to Leipzig — to Berlin in 6t^ 
hrs. — to Bautzen and Breslau — to 
Prague, 28 Germ. m. Trains in 8 hrs. 
— to Vienna. 

There is an Express Train daily from 
Vienna by Dresden to Cologne, and 
vice versa. There are two railway stats, 
close together in the Neustadt, on the 
it, bank of the Elbe. 

N.B. — English travellers going into 
Austria, and furnished only with a 
French or Belgian passport, had better 
get it exchanged for a British one at 
the Embassy in Dresden. 

Steamers ply on the Elbe, in summer, 
daily : 2 or 3 times a day to Pillnitz, 
Schandau, and Hernnskretschen (in the 
Saxon Switzerland) , twice to Tetschen, 
and once daily to Aussig. Travellers com- 
ing from Prague to Dresden should leave 
the rail at Aussig and take to the 
steamer, in order to enjoy the beautiful 
scenery of the Elbe and Saxon Swit- 
zerland. 

English Church Service every Sunday, 
in the Johannes Kirche, near the Pir- 
naische Platz, at 11 a.m., and in sum- 
mer also at 3 p.m. 

Dr. Hedenus is a skilful physician, 
much employed by the English. Hen- 
Hollander, 3 Halbe Gasse, is recom- 
mended as a good German master. 

Promenades. There is no lack of 
pleasant waBis in and about the town. 
Besides the Terrace of Bruhl (p. 442) 
and the gardens of the Japanese Palace 
(p. 457), there are a sort of boulevard, 
which surrounds the town in the direc- 
tion of the levelled fortifications, and 
another pleasant small garden adjoining 
the Zwinger. 

Outskirts and Environs. At the dis- 
tance of a mile from the barrier of the 
town, on the 1. bank of the Elbe, on 
the way to Pirna, lies the Grosse Garten, 



a large park filled with fine trees, con- 
taining several coffee-houses, to which 
people resort in summer, especially 
when attracted by a very good band, 
which often plays here. 

About a mile S.E. of the town, and 
■^ m. from the Great Garden, are 
the fields and slopes which were the 
"scenes of the combats and bombard- 
ment preceding the retreat of the French 
to Leipzig." The allied force extended 
all round the old town, from the barrier 
of Pima on the Elbe to the marsh of 
Priesnitz on that river below the town. 
Immediately behind the small village of 
Backnitz is the Monument of Moreau. 
He was struck by a shot from a battery 
at the angle of the wall now occupied 
by Dr. Struve's garden. Napoleon 
caused the distance to be measured, 
and it was found to be not less than 
2000 yards. A large square block of 
granite, surmounted by a helmet, has 
been erected on the spot where he re- 
ceived his mortal wound. His two legs, 
which were separated from his body by 
a cannon-ball, are bulled here, but his 
body was conveyed to St. Petersburg. 
The inscription says, " Moreau, the 
hero, fell here, by the side of Alexan- 
der, 27th August, 1813." The view of 
Dresden from this point is very good. 

On the rt. bank of the Elbe, nearly 
a mile distant from the outskirts of the 
Neustadt, in the Churchyard (Neustadter 
Kirchhof), is a representation of the 
Dance of Death (Todtentanz), a proces- 
sion of 27 figures, in several groups, 
each headed by the skeleton king, who 
drags on rather roughly, and with a 
triumphant air, the imwuling throng, 
composed of persons of all ranks, ages, 
and professions. This rude carving, in 
relief, is of no greater antiquity than 
1534. It has now become the more 
curious, since the original Dance of 
Death exists no longer at Basle. 

Tiedge the poet, and Adelung the phi- 
lologist, are buried in this churchyard. 
Weber the composer, who died in Lon- 
don, and whose body was removed from 
Moorfields in 1844, and Fred. Schlegel. 
lie in the Catholic churchyard in the 
Friederichstadt. 

The rt. bank of the Elbe, above 
Dresden, rises in picturesque hills from 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 87. DRESDEN. OUTSKIRTS. 



459 



the edge of the river. These are 
topped with rich woods, while their 
lower slopes, turned to the southern 
sun, are covered with vineyards, and 
form a continuation of the Saxon 
wine district, which begins at Meissen, 
and extends up to Pillnitz. These 
sunny slopes are dotted over with neat 
white villas, in the midst of pleasure- 
grounds — the retreats of opulent in- 
dustry. Here also have been established 
several places of public resort, some- 
what between a tea-garden, coffee- 
house, and tavern, such as are always 
to be found in the neighbourhood of a 
German large town. (§ 40.) 

Such are the Baths of Link (Link- 
esche Bad), an establishment compris- 
ing an inn, L situated about -J a mile 
from the outskirts of the new town, 
on the borders of the Elbe, in a very 
rural spot, with a garden abounding 
in alcoves ; a Theatre, where dramatic 
performances take place in summer ; 
and a mineral spring with baths, which 
give the name to the spot. In summer 
afternoons, especially on Sundays, many 
hundred persons assemble here to take 
their ice, beer, or coffee — to dance, or 
listen to the music of an excellent 
band. 

There is a very pleasant foot-road 
from this at the foot of the vine-clad 
hills, and by the Elbe side, nearly all 
the way to Pillnitz. 

Not far from the Linkesche Bad is 
a large brewery established in 1838. 
It is a very large establishment, carried 
on by a company, and the beer brewed 
here is what is known in Germany by 
the name of Bavarian. It is called the 
Waldschloss brewery, from a small 
Lustschloss which stood in its neigh- 
bourhood. The " Waldschlosses Bier" 
enjoys a deserved reputation far and 
near. The building contains rooms 
for visitors, and there is a terrace much 
frequented owing to the fine view from 
it. The brewery forms a striking ob- 
ject, looking up the reach of the river 
from the end of the Bruhl terrace. 

A short distance above the Baths of 
Link, on the top of the hill beneath 
which the Elbe flows, is Findlater's, a 
house so called from a Scotch noble- 
man who resided here. After his death 



it became a public garden, but has been 
recently purchased, with the 4 ad- 
joining vineyards, by Prince Albert of 
Prussia, in the name of Baron von 
Stockhausen. He is about to build a 
fine mansion here. 

Following the carriage road, about 
3 m. from the Baths of Link, and 1-^ m. 
from the point where the post-road to 
Bautzen turns off on the 1. above 
Loschwitz, a small red-tiled, dilapi- 
dated country-house is seen, in the 
midst of a vineyard close to the road. 
This was for some time the retreat of 
Schiller, who wrote the greater part of 
his "Don Carlos" in it. The build- 
ing was lent to him by his friend the 
elder Korner (father of the poet, who 
resided in the house below). The view 
from it is very pleasing. 

The village immediately opposite 
Loschwitz, called Blase witz, has been 
rendered famous by Schiller, who has 
named the female suttler in the camp 
of "Wallenstein, Oustel of Blasewitz — 
the said Gustel being a real person 
who, in the poet's time, used to sell 
cakes at the inn close to the ferry. 
This is indeed a classical neighbour- 
hood; for before reaching Pillnitz, 
near the village of Hosterwitz, is the 
house in which C. M. von Weber com- 
posed his operas of " Der Freischiitz " 
and " Oberon." It is the first house 
on the rt., close to the road, after you 
pass an avenue of poplars running at 
rt. angles to the road. It is sur- 
rounded by walled vineyards. 

The excursion to the romantic 
Plauensche Grund and the village of 
Tharand is described in Ete. 90. 

The most interesting of all the ex- 
cursions round Dresden is that to the 
Saxon Switzerland. (Btes. 88, 89.) A 
traveller pressed for time, and unable 
to make the whole tour, should at least 
devote a day to visit the Bastei, Otto- 
walder Grund, and Konigstein, which 
might easily be accomplished by starting 
by the railroad in the morning, so as to 
breakfast in the inn at the Bastei, pro- 
ceeding thence along the rt. bank of 
the Elbe to Schandau, crossing the 
Elbe by ferry at Schandau, dining at 
Konigstein, and returning by the even- 

Mr. Muller, of 



ing train to Dresden. 



x 2 



460 



ROUTE 88. — SAXON SWITZERLAND. 



Sect. VII. 



the H. de Pologne, suggests the fol- 
lowing plan. — " The easiest and most 
profitable way of visiting Saxon Switz- 
erland, particularly for those who can- 
not devote much time to it, is to set out 
from Dresden at 11 o'cl. morn, by rail- 
way, with a ticket for the stat. 
Potscha ; there to leave the train, cross 
the river Elbe to "Wehlen, ascend to the 
Bastei rock, and go on as far as the 
little town of Sehandau, and sleep 
there. The next day the traveller goes 
by the Ruhstall, the Winterberg, and 
the Prebischthor to JTerniskretschen, 
where he meets the steamer for Dresden 
at 5 o'cl., and reaches that city at 8 in the 
evening." By aid of steamer and railway 
a good deal of the Saxon Switzerland 
may be visited in afternoon excursions 
from Dresden, leaving the quiet morn- 
ing hours to be devoted to the arts. 
Potscha stat. is the nearest to the Bastei. 
Konigstein may also be thus seen. 

ROUTE 88. 

THE SAXON SWITZERLAND. 

(A.) — DRESDEN TO PILLNITZ, THE 
BASTEI, SCHANDAU, KUHSTALL, PRE- 
BISCHTHOR, AND HIRNISKRETSCHEN. 
— RAILWAY. 

General Information. — The district 
called the " Saxon Switzerland" begins 
about 8 m. above Dresden, and extends 
beyond the Bohemian frontier. The 
name of "Switzerland" is not alto- 
gether appropriate, as the scenery of 
the two countries is very different, and 
it may perhaps lead to exaggerated ex- 
pectations, and comparisons disadvan- 
tageous to the Switzerland of Saxony. 
It has none of the glaciers, or snows, 
serrated ridges, and granite peaks of 
the real Switzerland, and its mountains 
are of very inferior height ; but it has 
scenery so peculiar, and so unlike what 
is found elsewhere, that though it falls 
short, in sublimity, to that country, the 
Saxon Switzerland may be visited with 
surprise and gratification even by those 
who are acquainted with the other. 
The river Elbe flows through the centre 
of it, and its banks are more interesting 
in this part of its comse than in any 
other between its source and the sea. 



" About 4 m. beyond Pillnitz the 
valley of the Elbe closes ; the moun- 
tains become more lofty and bare ; the 
majestic river, quitting at length the 
rugged and mountainous course which 
has hemmed him in from his birth in 
the Mountains of the Giant, and des- 
tined to visit, throughout the rest of 
his career, only scenes of industry and 
fertility, comes forth rejoicing from the 
gorges which you are about to enter. 
From this point up to the frontiers of 
Bohemia, the rocks in the neighbour- 
hood of the river, principally on the rt. 
bank, consisting of a coarse-grained 
sandstone, are cut in all directions into 
gorges, as if the chisel had been used 
to hew passages through them. They 
should rather be called lanes, so narrow 
are they, so deeply sunk, and so 
smoothly perpendicular do the gigantic 
walls of rock rise on both sides. The 
walls themselves are cut vertically into 
separate masses, by narrow openings 
reaching from the summit to the very 
bottom, as if a cement, which once 
united them, had been washed away. 
These perpendicular masses, again, are 
divided and grooved horizontally into 
layers, or apparent layers, like blocks 
regularly laid upon each other to form 
the wall. The extremities are seldom 
sharp or angular, but almost always 
rounded, betraying the continued action 
of water. They generally terminate in 
some singular form. Some have a huge 
rounded mass reclining on their sum- 
mit, which appears scarcely broad 
enough to poise it ; others have a more 
regular mass laid upon them, like the 
astragal of a Doric pillar ; others assume 
the form of inverted pyramids, increasing 
in breadth as they shoot higher into the 
air. Occasionally they present a still 
more singular appearance ; for, after 
tapering in a conical form to a certain 
elevation, they begin to dilate again as 
they rise higher, as if an inverted 
truncated cone were placed on a right 
truncated cone, resembling exactly, but 
on an infinitely greater scale, what 
often occurs in caverns, where the 
descending stalactite rests on an ascend- 
ing stalagmite." — Russell's Germany. 

The rock of this district, which ex- 
hibits these phenomena, is the Q>ui- 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 88. — GENERAL INFORMATION. 



461 



dersandstein of German geologists, agree- 
ing with the green-sand formation of 
England. " It crumbles down into a 
soil soft to the feet, and of sufficient 
consistency not to be deep or heavy, 
affording the easiest and least fatiguing 
walking to the pedestrian. It is dif- 
ficult to tire in such a country, where 
there is also abundance of shades and 
delicious water in every valley." — F. S. 

Many of the gorges, or narrow val- 
leys, above described, are inaccessible 
in carriages, so that the entire tour of 
the Saxon Switzerland can only be made 
on foot. Nevertheless, most of the 
finest scenes lie within the distance of 
a short walk from some carriage-road ; 
and notice is taken in the following 
route of those spots where travellers 
may leave their carriage, and of others 
to which it may be sent round to meet 
them. Guides may be found at the 
principal inns of the district, who will 
conduct strangers to the most interest- 
ing spots, by the shortest ways. A 
thaler a day is the usual trinkgeld. 

All that is best worth noticing is 
described in the following routes, and 
may be seen in three days by a person 
who does not object to rise early, and 
who is moderately strong a-foot. On 
the first day, he may breakfast or dine 
at the Bastei. The baths of Schandau 
afford good sleeping accommodation, 
and may be chosen for the resting-place 
for the first and second nights, and 
Dresden may be reached early on the 
third evening. Pedestrians, who make 
the whole joivrney on foot, will require 
4 days, or at least 3 and a half, and will 
find the best lodgings to be, for the 1st 
night, the Bastei ; 2nd, Great Winter- 
berg; 3rd, Schandau or Konigstein: 
but as the country from Dresden to 
Pillnitz, or Pirna, is dull and flat, it is 
best to take the railway to Pirna (?), or 
to take the steamer on the Elbe. 
Donkeys, ponies, and chaises-a-porteurs 
may be hired at all the principal sta- 
tions for ladies and those who cannot 
walk. The mode of travelling may be 
agreeably varied on returning, by de- 
scending the Elbe in the steamer, or in 
boats called Gondeln, which may be 
hired in the towns and' villages along 
the banks. 



A visit to the Saxon Switzerland is 
now facilitated by the Steamers on the 
Elbe (see p. 458), and by the Railway. 

" An abbreviated Tour might satisfy 
many already acquainted with moun- 
tain scenery, who wish to see as much 
of the Saxon Switzerland as can be con- 
tained in an enlarged circuit from 
Dresden to Teplitz. By leaving Dres- 
den in the morning by the train to 
Pirna, which is reached in -| h., cross- 
ing the Elbe, and walking through 
Ottowald, the Bastei • may be gained 
before noon. The traveller may dine, 
and either cross the Elbe, ascend the 
highly interesting fortress of Konig- 
stein, and then recross it to Schandau, 
or may walk to Hochstein and Hohn- 
stein, and thence by the Brand reach 
Schandau early, and spend the evening 
in its agreeable neighbourhood." 

" Next day he may visit the Kuhstall 
and Prebischthor with the Great Win- 
terberg; then return to the Elbe at 
Hernnskretschen, and follow the banks 
to Tetschen, whence by taking a car- 
riage he may easily reach Teplitz in 
the evening." — Pr. F. 

The carriage road along the rt. bank 
of the Elbe, by Pillnitz to the Bastei 
and Schandau, is now nearly superseded 
by the railway to Prague, which starts 
from the Neustadt in Dresden, crosses 
the Elbe, and, sweeping round the S. 
side of the town, skirts (1.) the great Gar- 
den; (rt.) Moreau's monument (p. 458) ; 
and thence follows the winding course 
of the Elbe, along the 1. bank of that 
river. Potscha is the Stat, for the 
Bastei, crossing the ferry to "Wehlen : at 
Rathen is another ferry leading to the 
Bastei. Konigstein Stat, is 40 min. 
walk from the fortresss. Krippen is the 
stat. for Schandau, whence omnibus 
goes to the Kuhstall. Niedergrund, the 
first stat. in Bohemia, is l^m. from 
Herrnskr etschen . 

Pillnitz (Inn and restaurant near the 
palace) in summer is the residence of 
the Court of Saxony from May to Sep- 
tember. The Palace, built 1818, in the 
place of a previous one destroyed by 
fire, is not very imposing externally, 
but it contains some very good modern 
frescoes by the Saxon artist Vogcl ; 
those in the Great Saloon represent the 



462 



ROUTE 88. PILLN1TZ. THE BASTEI. 



Sect. VII. 



Arts — Painting, Sculpture, Architec- 
ture, and Music. The chapel is adorned 
with several subjects by the same 
artist, exhibiting more of the refined 
conception and bold execution of the 
old masters than is usually found in 
modern works of this class. " During 
the residence of the Court, strangers 
can be admitted at j- before 3 to a gal- 
lery in the dining-hall to see the royal 
party at dinner, offering the only 
instance at the present time in Europe 
of a sovereign dining in public : the 
gallery is usually filled." — L. M. r. 
PiUnitz was the place of meeting of a 
Congress of Sovereigns, in 1791, includ- 
ing the Empr. Leopold II., Frederick 
William II. of Prussia, the Due 
d'Artois (afterwards Charles X.), Ca- 
lonne, and many French exiles, who 
projected a crusade against revolution- 
ary France as the means of reinstating 
the Bourbons on its throne. There are 
gardens and hot-houses attached to the 
palace, and agreeable walks along the 
heights above pleasure-grounds. The 
Porsberg, an hour's walk to the N.E., 
commands fine prospects. 

Beyond Pillnitz the carriage-road 
quits the bank of the Elbe, and pro- 
ceeds along an avenue of trees, through 
the village of Ober-Boyritz, to Lohmen. 
The road to Lohmen lies by the side of 
one of those glens or gorges for which 
this country is remarkable, called 
'Liebethaler Grund. Though pretty, it 
is inferior in beauty to many others ; so 
that persons pressed for time may re- 
serve themselves for the Ottowalder 
Grund on the other side of Lohmen. 
It takes about 2 hrs. to walk through 
the Liebethaler Grund, and carriages 
may be sent round to Lohmen. A beau- 
tiful stream runs, or rather rolls, down 
the glen, leaving scarcely room to walk 
by the side. The path passes large 
quarries, from which millstones are 
obtained, and leads up the glen as far 
as the Lochmiihle, a mill sunk deep in 
the gorge, and wedged .in between per- 
pendicular cliffs. The path lies through 
the miller's house, where refreshments 
may be obtained ; and then, ascending 
out of the gorge by a flight of some 180 
steps, proceeds along the top of the 
cliffs, by Dauba, to 



Lohmen, a small village with a poor 
country inn, and an old castle on the 
brink of a precipice, from which a 
peasant is said to have fallen while 
asleep into the depth below, and to have 
recovered from his injuries. 

After traversing the greater part of 
the long village of Lohmen, a footpath 
turns off suddenly to the rt. to Otto- 
walde, or TJttewalde, distant 2 m. 
The Ottowalder Grund, another ravine, 
also to be traversed only on foot, and 
which no one should omit to explore, 
is remarkable for the height of its sides 
and the narrow space separating its 
walls asunder, so that the sun scarce 
penetrates into its depths. It possesses 
some remarkable objects : 1st. Das Thor, 
"the gate;" where 3 large cubic-shaped 
masses of rock, having fallen from above, 
are jammed in between them so as to 
form a natural roof, under which, as 
under an arch, the traveller must pass. 
Then comes the " Stone House," being 
various large masses of rock exactly 
resembling the roof of a house. 3rdlv. 
Teufels Kuche, or " Devil's Kitchen," 
a large natural excavation, which puts 
one in mind of the Abbot's Kitchen 
at Glastonbury. Shortly after this, the 
ravine divides into 2 ways : the rt. leads 
to Wehlen ; the 1. hand path, emerging 
from the depths of the Ottowalder 
Grund, crosses the carriage-road from 
Dresden and Lohmen, and brings you 
at the end of -5 hr's. walk to the 
verge of the gigantic precipice called 
The Bastei, or Bastion ; close to which 
there is a tolerable Inn, much thronged, 
however, in summer. 

The Bastei, from which is obtained 
by far the finest view in the whole dis- 
trict, " is the name given to one of the 
largest masses of rock which rise close 
by the river on the rt. bank. One 
narrow block, on the very summit, 
projects into the air. Perched on this, 
not on, but beyond, the brink of this 
precipice, you command a prospect 
which, in its kind, is unique in Europe. 
You hover on the pinnacle, at an eleva- 
tion of more than 600 ft. above the 
Elbe, which sweeps round the bottom 
of the precipice. Behind, and up along 
the winding river on the same bank, 
rise similar precipitous cliffs, cut and 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 88. — THE BASTEI. 



463 



intersected like those already described. 
From the farther bank, the plain gra- 
dually elevates itself into an irregular 
amphitheatre, terminated by a lofty 
but rounded range of mountains. The 
striking feature is, that, in the bosom 
of this amphitheatre, a plain of the 
most varied beauty, huge columnar 
hills start up at once from the ground, 
at a great distance from each other, 
overlooking, in lonely and solemn 
grandeur, each its own portion of the 
domain. They are monuments which 
the Elbe has left standing to comme- 
morate its triumph over their less hardy 
kindred. The most remarkable among 
them are the Lilienstein and Konigstein, 
which tower, nearly in the centre of 
the picture, to a height of about 900 ft. 
above the level of the Elbe. They rise 
perpendicularly from a sloping base, 
formed of debris, and now covered with 
natural wood. The access to the sum- 
mit is so difficult, that an Elector of 
Saxony and King of Poland thought 
the exploit which he performed in 
scrambling up to the top of the Lilien- 
stein deserving of being commemorated 
by an inscription. The access to the 
Konigstein is artificial, for it has long 
been a fortress ; and, from the strength 
of the situation, is still a virgin one. 
Besides these, the giants of the terri- 
tory, the plain is studded with many 
other columnar eminences of the same 
general character, though on a smaller 
scale ; and they all bear, from time im- 
memorial, their particular legends — for 
the mountains of Saxony and Bohemia 
are the native country of tale-telling 
tradition, the cradle of Gnomes and 
Kobolds. In the deep rents and gloomy 
recesses of the Lilienstein, hosts of 
spirits still watch over concealed trea- 
sures. A holy nun, miraculously trans- 
ported from the irregularities of her 
convent to the summit of the Nonnen- 
stein, that she might spend her days in 
prayer and purity in its caverns, is 
commemorated in the name of the rock; 
and the Jungfernsprung, or Leap of the 
Virgin, perpetuates the memory of the 
Saxon maid, who, when pursued by a 
brutal lustling, threw herself from the 
brink of its hideous precipice, to die 
unpolluted.' ' — Russell's Germany . 



These stiff bare rocks, rising from the 
earth, manifest, though now disjoined, 
that they once formed one body, all the 
softer parts of which have mouldered 
away, and left only the naked, inde- 
structible framework. 

The scene beheld from the Bastei 
will most assuredly detain the traveller 
for hours. The view over the plain, 
however, is not the only wonder of this 
remarkable spot. Behind, and at one 
side of the Bastei, numerous gigantic 
pinnacles of rock, separated from the 
main body by rents and chasms of tre- 
mendous depth, shoot upwards to a 
great height, in every variety of fan- 
tastic forms. So slight and slender are 
these natural pillars and obelisks, that 
it is difficult to understand how they 
maintain themselves upright at a height 
of several hundred feet. "Numerous 
tufts of large trees have struck root in 
this world of rocks, where there appears 
not an inch of earth to nourish them." 
— L. These slender pinnacles have 
been rendered accessible from the main 
land by slight wooden bridges spanning 
the chasms. A band of robber knights 
in former times set up a nest-like castle 
upon some of the loftiest and apparently 
most inaccessible of them ; it was called 
Burg Neurathen, and scanty remains of 
its masonry are still visible. The 
entrance on one side was through a 
natural arch and over a drawbridge; 
the approach on the other lay through 
a cleft 3 ft. wide, and was closed by a 
portcullis formed of a slab of stone, 
which ran in grooves still visible in the 
rocky walls. The narrow planks with 
which the robbers bridged the chasms 
around them were easily removed when 
danger threatened, and their stronghold 
was then impregnable. From this lofty 
eyrie they watched the approach of 
vessels on the Elbe, and dashed down 
to pillage or make captive, being long- 
enabled by their position to bid defiance 
to legal authority. This fortress was 
at length destroyed in 1468 ; but in 
1639, during the horrors of the XXX 
Years' War, many poor refugees, driven 
out of their houses in the plain, sought 
shelter from the enemy among these 
crags. 

There is a carriage-road from the 



464 ROUTE 88. — HOCHSTEIN. SCHANDAU. KUHSTALL. Sect. VII. 



Bastei to Schandau, "leaving- Hohn- 
stein on the opposite side of the ravine, 
on the 1., and winding down a long and 
gradual descent towards the Elbe, 
among rocks and thickets, commanding 
views by turns into the ravine on the 
1., and into the valley of the Elbe, in- 
cluding the noble rock of Lilienstein, 
on the rt. It is one of the finest land- 
scapes in the Saxon Switzerland." A 
steep path also descends through the 
narrow cleft above mentioned to the 
margin of the Elbe and the village of 
Eathen, at the foot of the Bastei. 

At Eathen a ferry takes you over 
the Elbe, and the traveller bound for 
Teplitz or Prague, and not intending 
to. descend the Elbe again, may cross 
here and follow the 1. bank as far as 
Konigstein (p. 466), after which, re- 
erossing the river higher up, opposite 
to Schandau, he may either retrace his 
steps down the rt. bank as far as the 
Tiefer Grund, and proceed through it 
to Hohnstein and the Brand, or go at 
once to Schandau. 

From tbe foot of the Bastei at Eathen 
a path threads the bottom of other 
ravines as far as Hochstein. The 
waterfall of the Amstel Grund, though 
much praised by the natives, is but a 
sorry affair, especially after the cataracts 
of Switzerland; indeed, there is not 
one waterfall in the whole of this dis- 
trict worth the trouble of stepping 2 
yards aside to see it. 

Hochstein is a projecting promontory 
of rock, 400 ft. high, commanding a 
good view, approachable by a frail 
bridge thrown over a deep dark gulf, 
or yawning abyss, called Wolfsschlucht. 
It is made accessible by ladders and by 
steps cut in the sides ; and, from traces 
of walls and iron hooks fastened in the 
rock, it is probable that there was once 
a fort here, serving as a watch-tower 
or outwork to the castle of Hohnstein 
on the opposite side of the valley. 
Hohnstein is a village of 900 inhab., 
with a Castle, which is surrounded on 
all sides by precipices. The fearful 
dungeons were once used as state 
prisons. Accommodation may be had 
at the Weissen Hirsch. 

A carriage^road leads from Hohn- 
stein to the Brand, another very good 



point of view, but inferior to the Bastei. 
The road then passes down the Tiefer 
Grund, a valley so narrow that the sun 
appears rarely to penetrate it, to the 
banks of the Elbe, which it follows for 
about 1-5 m., till it reaches 

Schandau. Inns: Sachsischer Schweitz; 
Dampfschiff, on the Elbe; Forsthaus, 
good ; Deutsches Haus ; Badhaus, an 
inn out of the town about J m. up the 
valley of the Kirnitsch, at a spot where 
a mineral spring supplies some baths, 
much frequented by Dresdeners in sum- 
mer, rather dear. Schandau is a town 
of 1000 inhab. on the rt. bank of the 
Elbe, here crossed by a ferry at the 
junction of a streamlet called Kirnitsch. 
From its central situation, Schandau 
is convenient head-quarters for those 
who propose to explore at their ease 
the Saxon Switzerland; and there is a 
stat. on the Dresden and Prague rail- 
way at Krippen, about f m. after cross- 
ing the ferry. A good walker, setting 
out early from Schandau, might visit 
in one day the Kuhstall, "Winterberg, 
Prebischthor, and Hernnskretschen, 
and return without much exertion to 
sleep at the Baths. 

A carriage-road runs up the beau- 
tiful valley of the Kirnitsch, to within 
a mile of the Kuhstall, about 6 m. from 
Schandau, where a path turns abruptly 
to the rt., across a brook and up a steep 
wooded hill, and, after a mile of ascent, 
brings you to the Kuhstall. Ladies not 
strong a-foot may be carried up in a 
sedan-chair by two stout bearers, who 
will be found in readiness near the spot. 
An omnibus (stellwagen) runs up the 
valley. 

The portion of the Saxon Switzer- 
land, beyond Schandau, which it re- 
mains to describe, is traversed only by 
foot-paths and cart-tracts, and is inac- 
cessible for a carriage, which must 
therefore be left at Schandau to await 
the traveller's return. 

The Kuhstall (cow-stall) is a natural 
arch or cave in the rock, 30 ft. high 
and 40 wide, under which one passes to 
a sort of terrace commanding a most 
striking view of the valley far below. 
During the Thirty Tears' "War the 
peasants drove their cattle hither for 
safety, whence its name. Many of the 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 88. — WINTERBERG. PREBISCHTHOR. 



4G5 



persecuted Protestants, expelled from 
Bohemia by the Emp. Ferdinand II. 
and the Jesuits, took refuge here with 
their families. This cave forms the 
frame to a singular picture. "The 
traveller sees around him rocks heaped 
upon rocks, many crowned with fir- 
trees, reminding an Englishman of the 
scenery near Tunhridge Wells, only on 
a much grander scale. A narrow fissure 
in the sandstone, which can just be 
ascended by a person of moderate size, 
leads to a platform on the top of the 
Kuhstall. The Wochenbett is a cavern 
so named, because the ' women in the 
straw' were placed there for greater 
security, when this spot was an asylum 
for the persecuted." — L. 

An abrupt descent through a chasm, 
literally a crack in the rock, on the 1. of 
the Kuhstall, leads into the valley, 
where a sand-strown and easily dis- 
cernible path traverses fields and forests 
as far as the foot of the hills called 
Lesser and Great "Winterberg. The 
Lesser "Winterberg is the steeper of the 
two, and more tiresome to surmount. 
The Great Winterberg, 2030 ft. above 
the level of the sea, and 1628 above the 
Elbe (3 m. from Kuhstall), is a knob 
of trap piercing through the sandstone, 
and one of the highest mountains in the 
district ; in ascending it, the guide 
points out a projecting rock, to the very 
verge of which one of the Electors of 
Saxony was driven by an infuriated 
stag which he had wounded in the 
chase. Just as the animal was bending 
down its antlers to toss him over the 
precipice, the prince succeeded in shoot- 
ing it through the heart. On the sum- 
mit there is a good inn, where travellers 
may obtain decent fare and beds, if 
they make up their mind to pass a night 
here for the sake of seeing the sun rise 
over the Bohemian mountains. The 
view is very striking, extending to the 
mountains of Silesia ; the various 
isolated hills nearer at hand rise up like 
pillars out of the valley of the Elbe, 
whose winding course is commanded for 
a long distance. From the Winterberg 
the path plunges down amidst the 
seared remains of the forest, which has 
recently been burnt, and exhibits a 
scene of desolation ; it soon crosses the 



Bohemian frontier. An hour's walk 
brings you to the Prebisch Thor, another 
natural arch, hollowed out of the rock, 
but more remarkable, and of much more 
colossal dimensions, than the Kuhstall. 
It is 66 ft. high, 98 broad ; the -view 
from the platform on the top is fine, 
the scenery near at hand is exceedingly 
wild, and the distant outline of the 
Erzgebirge borders the horizon. Here 
you may get a good dinner, and ex- 
perience how much cheaper everything 
is in the Austrian dominions than in 
Saxony. A steep path descends from 
this, and follows the course of the Biel, 
a small brook, and afterwards of the 
Kamnitz, a larger stream, turning several 
saw-mills, until it enters the Elbe at 

Hemnskretschen, or Hirniskrctschen, a 
small village on the estate of the Bohe- 
mian prince Clary, having an Inn on 
the Elbe, 2 h. easy walk from the 
Winterberg. Large timber rafts are 
constructed here, and arc floated down 
the Elbe when the water is high. There 
is a good view of the gorge of the Elbe 
from the Belvedere, a summer-house 
above the village. 

About 8 m. higher up the Elbe, 
within the Austrian frontier, is the 
. small town of Tetsehen and the hand- 
some chateau of Count Thun; the 
scenery of the Elbe hereabouts is very 
interesting. The road thither is rough, 
so that the traveller had better take the 
steamer (p. 458). (See Ete. 263 in 
Handbook for South Germany.) 
Boats (gondeln) may be hired on terms 
fixed by a printed tariff at Hernns- 
kretschen, to ascend or descend the Elbe. 
The path to Schandau, 6 m. is very 
rough, lying over the fragments of 
many stone-quarries, worked in the 
cliffs on the rt. bank of the river. On 
the opposite side of the Elbe are seen 
2 of the singular columnar hills 
peculiar to the district, the Zirkelstein 
and Kahlstein. 

EOUTE 89. 

SAXON SWITZERLAND (B) — DESCENT OK 
THE ELBE FROM SCHANDAU TO DRES- 
DEN BY KONIGSTEIN AND P1RNA. 

Steamers daily between Aussig, 
Tetsehen, Schandau, and Dresden (p. 

x 3 



466 



ROUTE 89. LILIENSTEIN. KONIGSTEIN. 



Sect, VII. 



458). The voyage down the river is 
very agreeable, and the traveller may 
on the way land at the foot of Lilien- 
stein, Konigstein, the Bastei, &c, and 
explore these spots with little fatigue. 

There is a ferry over the Elbe at 
Sehandau to the Dresden and Prague 
railroad on the opposite side, passing 
by Konigstein and Pirna, Miigeln and 
Niedersedlitz. 

rt. " The Schrammstein, a bold per- 
pendicular promontory of sandstone, 
overtops the neighbouring hills. Near 
the river it has a columnar fracture, 
but inland it assumes the form of a 
gigantic Cyclopean wall." — F. S. 

rt. Lilienstein is the highest of the 
12 isolated table mountains of the 
Saxon Switzerland, surpassing by 168 
ft. its opposite neighbour Konigstein. 
Its summit, 1254 ft. above the sea, is 
accessible from the village of Ebenheit, 
by narrow paths cut in the rock, and 
by scaling-ladders placed against the 
precipice. These means of access were 
first prepared in 1708, by order of 
Frederick Augustus I. of Saxony, after 
having himself made the ascent'; an 
exploit of which he was so proud, that 
he set up an obelisk, which still re- 
mains, to commemorate it (p-. 463). 
The view from the top extends down 
the Elbe as far as Dresden and Meis- 
sen, and upwards to the Bohemian 
mountains. The French laid out 
around the base of Lilienstein, in 1813, 
a fortified camp, the ramparts of which 
still remain in part ; it communicated 
by 2 bridges of boats with Konig- 
stein. During the Seven Years' War 
(1760) an army of 17,000 Saxons laid 
down their arms here to Frederick the 
Great, in sight of Augustus, their so- 
vereign, who was shut up at the time 
in the fortress. 

1. ^ Konigstein [Inns : Blauer Stern, 
ISTeue Schenke) is a small town of 
1300 inhab. on the Elbe. Above it, at 
a height of 779 ft. from the river, rises 
the virgin fortress of Konigstein, 
almost the only one in Europe never 
yet taken. " Viewed from a distance 
it bears a strong resemblance to one 
of the 'hill forts' of India, and will 
give an European an exact idea of those 
singular strongholds." — Z. M. It is 



deemed impregnable from its lofty 
situation, surrounded on all sides by 
perpendicular escarpments of several 
hundred feet, which have been im- 
proved by artificial cuttings, while the 
weaker places have been filled in with 
masonry ; but more than all from its 
isolated position, so far removed from 
any other height— the Lilienstein and 
Pfaffenstein, on opposite sides, being 
each 3000 yards distant — that it cannot 
be commanded by artillery. Napoleon 
endeavoured to batter it from Lilien- 
stein ; but, after raising 3 pieces of 
cannon with great difficulty to the 
summit, he found that the balls fell 
short. The guns were only 6 -pounders, 
and Lilienstein has been battered from 
Konigstein with 12 and 24-pounders. 
" The approach to it is most extra- 
ordinary, through a slanting way cut 
in the living rock, which rises on 
either side like a wall, and partly by a 
sloping wooden bridge, which, when 
removed in time of war, leaves the 
gateway unapproachable, high up in 
the face of the cliff. Besides this, it is 
defended by outworks and drawbridges, 
after the manner of many Indian hill 
forts."- — L. M. The platform on which 
the fortress is built is several acres in 
extent. This space is partly cultivated 
in fields and gardens, and includes a 
wood of forest-trees ; it produces a little 
corn, and pasturage for one or two cows, 
so as to suffice in part to support a 
garrison of 1200 men, the war com- 
plement, for whom 2 years' provisions 
are . always kept in store. In time of 
peace not more than 200 are stationed 
here. A well, cut to the depth of 613 
ft. in the solid rock, supplies them with 
water from an inexhaustible spring ; 
and enormous casemates, also excavated, 
serve as storehouses for provisions. To 
this fortress Saxony owes the preserva- 
tion of her priceless collection of works 
of art, virtu, and antiquity, her picture 
gallery and Green Vault. Cases for 
every article of value in the " Green 
Vault " are kept ready at hand, to pack 
them in, and send them to Konigstein 
in case of war. The treasures of the 
Saxon monarchs have frequently been 
deposited here, to be out of harm's 
way ; and indeed Frederick Augustus 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 90. — DRESDEN TO HOF. 



467 



II. himself took refuge here during the 
Seven Years' War, and the present King 
lived here 3 months in 1849. A ledge 
projecting over the precipice has the 
name of the Page's Bed, from the cir- 
cumstance of a drunken page of the 
Elector John George having been 
found on it fast asleep. His master, 
to warn him of the risk he ran, and to 
frighten him, caused him to he tied 
down, and then awakened by a pistol 
fired close to his ear. This fortress 
served once as a state prison : it was 
scaled for the first time in 1848 by a 
chimney-sweep, at mid-day; he reached 
the top half dead with fatigue. Strangers 
are admitted on showing their pass- 
ports : nothing should prevent the tra- 
veller visiting it. Independently of 
the fortress itself, the view from its 
walls is most beautiful, being panora- 
mic, and is, perhaps, the most striking 
in the Saxon Switzerland, next to that 
from the Bastei. 

The Elbe almost encircles the hill 
of Lilienstein, and follows a tortuous 
course as far as Pirna, passing 

rt. The village of Eathen at the 
foot of the gigantic precipices of the 
Bastei, see p. 462. Travellers usually 
disembark at Eathen to ascend it ; 3 
or 4 hrs. may be agreeably spent in 
enjoying the prospect from its summit, 
and in exploring the singular valleys 
around it. 

rt. "Wehlen, a small village. 1. The 
high road now quits the Elbe, and runs 
at a little distance from it. 

1. A little above Pirna stands the 
Castle of Sonnenstein, on an elevated 
rock, at the back of which the high 
road passes, before it descends into the 
town. It was originally a fortress and 
a state prison. Patkul, afterwards so 
cruelly murdered by Charles XII., was 
confined in it. It was obstinately de- 
fended by the French in 1813. It is 
now a Lunatic Asylum. 

1. 1-5 Pirna. — Inns : Weisses Eoss ; 
Schwarzer Adler, outside the walls. 
This small and unimportant town of 
5500 inhab. lies on the high road from 
Dresden to Teplitz, and on the bank 
of the Elbe. Carriages and boats are 
kept for hire here. 

rt. Pillnitz, p. 461. 



rt. The ferry above Hosterwitz, p- 
459. 

1. The small villages of Laubegast, 
Tolckwitz, and Elasewitz, p. 459. 

rt. Loschwitz, p. 459. 

2 Dresden, in Ete. 87. 

EOUTE 90. 

DRESDEN TO HOF IN BAVARIA, BY THE 
VALLEY OP PLAUEN, FREIBERG, ANT) 
CHEMNITZ. 

24 Germ. m. = 116 Eng. m. — Eil- 
wagen to Chemnitz daily in 10 h. 
A railway is in progress to Chemnitz 
from the Eiesa Stat, of the Leipzig 
and Dresden railway (Ete. 87). 

On leaving Dresden the road crosses 
the small river Weisseritz, and follows 
its course for about 2 m. to Plauen, a 
village of a few houses and water-mills, 
at the entrance of the very picturesque 
glen called the Plauensche Grund, with 
precipitous rocky sides or slopes, over- 
grown with underwood. It has been 
compared to the scenery of Hackfall, 
in Yorkshire. The road passes through 
it by the side of the Weisseritz, a 
stream very useful in turning the 
wheels of many mills, which give a 
lively air to its banks. The valley 
opens out into a broad green meadow, 
near the industrious village of Pots- 
chappel, close to which there are coal- 
mines, iron forges, glass-works, &c. 
Agates are found in the rocks around, 
and in the beds of the streams ; coke 
is made here to supply the smelting 
furnaces at Freiberg. 

2| Tharand (Inns : Deutsches Haus ; 
Hirsch), a watering-place and village 
with 1000 inhab. : its mineral baths 
are much frequented in summer by 
the inhabitants of Dresden. It is ro- 
mantically situated on a spot where 
3 valleys meet, 2 of them sending forth 
streams which unite and flow through 
the Plauensche Grund into the Elbe. 
It takes but 10 min. to ascend from 
the inn to the ruins of the Old Castle, 
perched on a promontory of rock, from 
which you look down into the deep and 
picturesque valley on cither side. The 
ruin is the remains of a hunting-seat 
of the ancestors of the present King of 
Saxony. It is worth while to take a 



468 



ROUTE 90. — FREIBERG. CATHEDRAL. 



Sect. VII. 



guide to explore some of the other 
pretty walks in this neighbourhood, 
such as the Forstgarten, from which 
there is a fine view, and the heech 
avenue called the Heilige Hallen. 

The Forstgarten is a nursery forest, 
containing 1000 species of trees and 
shrubs attached to the Forst-Academie 
subsisting here, in which a certain 
number of students are instructed in 
the forester's art, and in everything 
relating to planting trees and rearing 
timber. 

On the banks of the river Mulde, 
which the road crosses on approaching 
Freiberg, are several silver-mines ; the 
chief is that called Himmelfahrt (As- 
cension). The traveller's attention is 
arrested by the ceaseless tinkling of a 
bell. This is attached to the works of 
the mines, and its use is to give notice 
to the miners that all is right in the 
works below. If a rope break, or any 
other accident befall the machinery, 
the bell ceases to ring, and attention is 
thus instantly called to it. 

2| Freiberg (Inns : Buchwald's Hotel; 
Schwarzes Ross — Black Horse), an 
ancient and decayed imperial city, still 
surrounded by its old walls and ditch. 
It once contained 40,000 inhab. in the 
days of its prosperity ; it has now only 
13,000. It is the capital of the mining 
district of Saxony, and its rise and fall 
have kept pace with the productiveness 
of its silver-mines, which were dis- 
covered and worked as far back as the 
12 th cent. They have of late much 
fallen off, owing in a great degree to 
the richest veins being worked out, or 
to the shafts being driven so deep that 
it is impossible to drain off the water 
from them. A project for clearing 
them, by piercing a tunnel through the 
mountains to the Elbe at Meissen, is 
in progress, and is certainly one of the 
most stupendous undertakings of the 
kind in Europe, its length being about 
24 m. It has been calculated by 
Breithaupt, that the Freiberg mines 
have produced, in the 640 years during 
which they have been worked, down 
to 1825, 82,000 cwt. of silver, or the 
worth of 240 millions of dollars. The 
amount of silver gained in 1 850 equalled 
800,000 dollars. 



Freiberg was long the residence of 
the Saxon princes, who bestowed on it 
many immunities and privileges, and 
several of whom are interred in the 
Born Kxrche (Cathedral'), a handsome 
Gothic building, dating from 1484. In 
the choir behind the altar is the tomb 
of Maurice of Saxony, a lofty sarco- 
phagus, richly adorned with sculpture, 
surmounted by his kneeling effigy, by 
one Floras, an artist of Antwerp. 
Above it, in a niche, is placed the 
armour worn by him at the battle 
of Sievershausen, where he was killed, 
after gaining the victory, by a shot 
from behind ; the hole made by the 
bullet is still visible. The standards 
taken in the battle were hung over his 
grave ; they have dropped to pieces 
with age, and the wormeaten staves 
will not long outlast them. In the 
Lady Chapel adjoining are buried 
Henry the Pious and his successors 
down to Christian I., by whom it was 
built, 1593. It is enriched with Saxon 
marble and serpentine, and contains 
some fine bronze gilt statues by P. 
Boselli ; the pavement is inlaid with 
29 veiy fine brasses, not unlike those of 
England. The cloisters are converted 
into a sort of Museum of Antiquities. 

Other curiosities of this church are 
two pulpits of Gothic workmanship, 
curiously carved in stone ; one is sup- 
ported by figures of the master mason 
and his apprentice who executed it. 
The Golden Gate is a richly ornamented 
round portal, in the Romanesque style, 
date 1175-89, which belonged to the 
Frauenkirche, destroyed by fire in 1484 ; 
the sculpture shows very good feeling 
for art ■ it is well worth notice. Beside 
it is the tomb of the celebrated geolo- 
gist Werner, who died here in 1817. 
Once a quarter a sermon is preached in 
this church to the miners, who all 
attend in a body. 

" The Rathhaus, near the church, is 
a good specimen of 1ST. German Gothic 
(built 1410). The old houses are en- 
tered by an ornamental arch with a 
niche and seat on either side, a fashion 
prevalent in Saxony and Silesia." — 
F. S. 

In the market-place, opposite the 
guard-house, a flat round stone in the 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 90. — FREIBERG. MINES AND MINERS. 



469 



pavement marks the spot where Kunz 
of Kaufungen, the robber-knight, who 
stole the two young Saxon princes, 
Ernest and Albert, from their father's 
palace, was beheaded, 1455. 

The School of Mines (Berg- Academic) 
is the most renowned in Germany, and t 
students repair hither for instruction 
in the art of mining from all quarters 
of the globe. Humboldt, Werner, 
Jameson of Edinburgh, Mohs, and 
many other eminent mineralogists and 
geologists, were pupils in this institu- 
tion. Instructions are given by pro- 
fessors both in the practice and theory 
of the art ; in surveying, mining, and 
the preparation of ores, as well as in 
geology, mineralogy, &c. 

The Museum of the School of Mines 
is very rich in remarkable specimens of 
all the mineral productions of Saxony, 
and includes the splendid and useful 
collection of "Werner himself. It is 
not deficient in the geological depart- 
ment and in fossils. The Collection of 
Models of the Mines, mid the Machinery 
used in them, will give an uninitiated 
person a clear idea of the nature of a 
miner's operations, or at least will pre- 
pare one who purposes visiting them 
for understanding the processes when 
on the spot. There is an office for the 
sale of minerals attached to this esta- 
blishment. 

There are said to be about 130 
Mines of silver, copper, lead, and co- 
balt, round Freiberg : the prevailing- 
rock in which they are situated is a 
primary gneiss. To see a mine tho- 
roughly will occupy about 3 h. A 
permission must first be obtained from 
the Bergmeister, in Freiberg. Stran- 
gers are provided with a miner's dress 
at the entrance of the mine. Most of 
the mines are distant a mile or two 
from the town, and proper guides are 
appointed to conduct persons thither. 
The mine most conveniently visited, 
perhaps, is that called the Eurfurst 
(Elector), because it is large and dry ; 
it lies near Gross*Schirma. The Alte 
Mord Grube (Old Murder Mine) has 
very remarkable hydraulic pumps for 
extracting the water. The principal ores 
of silver are, argentiferous sulphuret of 
lead, native silver, and red silver. 



The Amalgamir - Werk at Halsbriick, 
about 3 m. out of the town, where 
the pure silver is obtained from the 
less productive ores by amalgamation 
with quicksilver, is well worth seeing. 
The process is carried on here .upon 
the most scientific principles. At 
Halsbriick are also situated many 
smelting-furnaces. What is called the 
ffebehaus, a sort of crane (like the 
staiths on the Tyne), by which boats 
are raised out of the Mulde into a 
canal, is a guide-book wonder not worth 
the trouble of the walk. 

The Miners of the Saxon Erzgebirge 
are a somewhat primitive class. Their 
form of salutation is by the words 
" Gliick auf." They are enrolled in a 
sort of semi-military corps, of which 
the common workmen are the privates, 
and the superintendents and managers 
the officers. They are called out se- 
veral times a year for inspection or 
parade, and in addition assemble in a 
body at certain stated times to attend 
miners' prayers in the church, at the 
funeral of a superior officer, during the 
visit of a royal personage, and on days 
of rejoicing for the discovery of a rich 
vein. On these occasions they appear 
in uniform, their leather aprons fastened 
on behind, leather pockets in the place 
of cartouche-boxes, and a large knife 
stuck in the girdle. The common 
miners march with their pickaxes 
shouldered, the carpenters with their 
axes, and the smiths with their ham- 
mers borne in the same fashion. These 
processions have a martial appearance, 
are headed by a band playing a miners' 
march, and accompanied by flying co- 
lours. The officers have similar uni- 
forms, distinguished according to their 
rank. All, up to the chief, or Berg- 
Hauptman, whether in working cos- 
tume or in full dress, wear the singular 
hinder -apron, which, from its position, 
bears a very significant name. Even 
the sovereign, were he to appear on the 
spot, as head miner of Saxony, could 
not dispense with this appendage. To 
be deprived of it is the greatest disgrace 
to which the miner can be subjected ; 
he thereby loses his privilege, and the 
dishonour is equal to that of knocking 
off the spurs from a knight's heels. 



470 ROUTE 90. CHEMNITZ : MANUFACTURES. ZWICKAU. Sect. VII. 



The road from Freiberg to Carlsbad 
by Joacbimstbal is described in Hand- 
book for South Germany. (Rte. 
259.) 

After quitting Freiberg, our road 
leaA^es on the rt. tbe hamlet of Gross 
Schirma, and passes the mines of Neu- 
Gottes-Segen (New Blessing of God), 
and farther on of Himmelsfiirst (Prince 
of Heaven), once the richest in the 
district, and one of the most productive 
mines in Europe, about 2 m. S.E. from 
Freiberg. 

2| Oederan (Inns : Post ; Hirsch), 
a manufacturing town of 3130 inhab. 
The little village Flohe is remarkable 
as the birthplace of the eminent states- 
man and lawyer Sam. Puffendorf, 
whose father was the minister here. 
On the rt. of the village of Flohe rises 
the castle of Augustusburg , built 1572 
by the Elector Augustus. It has a 
well 286 yards deep, cut in the rock ; 
and a lime-tree 400 years old is still 
growing in its garden. The chapel 
contains 2 pictures by L. Cranach. 

2| Chemnitz (Inn, Romischer Kaiser) 
is the principal manufacturing town in 
Saxony (26,000 inhab.), situated in a 
beautiful and well- watered valley. The 
cotton goods, especially stockings, for 
which it is chiefly celebrated, and to 
which it owes its present prosperity, 
rival even the English in quality and 
cheapness. In the quantity of hosiery 
produced Saxony already equals Great 
Britain. The spacious factory of 
Becker and Schraps, the largest in 
Saxony, has 18,600 spindles. Stock- 
ings for the American market, which 
are almost exclusively supplied hence, 
are made here at the low rate of 3s. 4d. 
a dozen. " The chief inferiority to the 
British lies in their want of elasticity. 
The stocking-weavers for the most 
part are not congregated into manu- 
factories, but live in cottages of their 
own, the fee-simple of which they 
have purchased by their own earnings. 
They cultivate in their own gardens the 
potatoes and other vegetables which 
form their usual food, and support from 
the same source the animals which pro- 
vide them with the small quantity of 
meat they consume : they live com- 
monly with great frugality on potatoes 



and coffee. "When the demand for 
manufacture is slack, they employ 
themselves in the field and garden ; 
when it is active, they devote them- 
selves to their frames and looms. The 
state provides them with gratuitous 
instruction, which has the happiest 
effect both on their industry and fru- 
gality." — Bowring. Chemnitz is also 
famous for the manufacture of spinning 
machinery, which is sent to all parts of 
the Continent. For 400 years it was 
a free imperial city, and still displays 
in its buildings marks of its antiquity. 
The ancient walls which formerly sur- 
rounded it have been pulled down, and 
their site converted into a pleasant 
Boulevard connecting the old town 
with its fine thriving suburbs. On 
the outskirts of the town is the Schloss, 
a conventual building of 1125, turned 
into a ducal residence by the Elector 
Maurice, now an inn, but retaining 
some ancient portions. 

The Great Church, Stadtkirche, has 
a richly carved portal, imitating a 
framework of boughs, carved in stone, 
1525 ; 'jwithin, a stone pulpit with 
bas-reliefs, 1536, and an altar-piece of 
which the original centre is destroyed, 
but the wings, painted with 4 saints, 
are probably by Wohlgemuth. Next to 
it the chief buildings are the Rathhaus 
and Gewandhaus (cloth hall). 

A Railway connects Chemnitz with 
Riesa, on the Leipzig and Dresden line, 
and the part between Biesa and Dobeln 
was opened in 1847. 

2| Lungwitz, a long village filled 
with stocking-weavers. Beyond Lich- 
tenstein the road traverses the valley 
of Miilsengrund, whose 8000 inhab. 
are chiefly stockingers. 

2| Zwickau (Inns : Post ; Tanne), on 
the banks of the Zwickauer-Mulde, 
has 5300 inhab. St. Mary's Ch. y the 
finest Gothic edifice in the Erzgebirge, 
date 1453-1536, is distinguished by its 
tall tower, which Luther often ascended 
on account of the pleasing view it com- 
mands. Within the ch. is a very 
fine altar-piece by the old German 
master Wohlgemuth, representing the 
Virgin and female saints, surrounded 
by a richly carved wooden frame-work, 
executed 1479, with statues of saints 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 91. — LEIPZIG TO HOF. 



471 



sculptured in wood. The Holy Se- 
pulchre, in the sacristy, is also a work 
of art. In the Baptismal Chapel is a 
good picture hy Cranach, " Suffer the 
little Children." The ch. of St. Ca- 
therine is a fine Gothic huilding (date 
1405). The high altar-piece, the Feet 
Washing and other subjects, is by an 
artist of the Nuremberg school. 

There is a good road from Zwickau 
to Carlsbad, through Schneeberg and 
the Erzgebirge. (Rte. 91 a.) 

About 15 m. S.E. of Zwickau, at 
Aue, there are extensive cobalt-mines 
and smalt-works. Near this also is dug 
the porcelain earth from which the china 
manufactory of Meissen is supplied. 
The serpentine stone, which is turned 
in the lathe and manufactured into va- 
rious articles, conies from the quarries 
at Zoblitz. 

A branch railway, 1 Germ. m. in 
length, connects Zwickau with the 
Leipzig and Hof Railway (Rte. 91), at 
the Werdau station. 

See Rte. 91 for the remainder of the 
way to Hof. 



ROUTE 91. 

LEIPZIG TO HOF BY ALTENBURG AND 
WERDAU. RAILWAY. 

19 Germ. m. = 91f Eng. m. 

This Railroad was completed 1851 
from Leipzig to Hof (with a branch to 
Zwickau). It ascends the valley of 
the Pleisse, crossing that stream. 

2^ Kieritsch Stat. 

2~ Altenburg Stat. (Tnws : Stadt Go- 
tha, good ; Hirsch), the capital of the 
Duchy of Saxe Altenburg on the 
Pleisse, has 14,200 inhab. The Palace 
(Schloss), on an escarped rock, was 
often the residence of Charlemagne, 
who here invested Otto of Wittelsbaeh 
with the Duchy of Bavaria. It con- 
sists of an older part dating from the 
18th cent., and a modern portion ; it is 
worth visiting, and contains an ar- 
moury. Out of one of its apartments 
the Robber Knights, Kunz of Kauf- 
ungen and "William von Mosen, stole 
the young Saxon princes, Ernest and 
Albert, in 1445. The ducal family re- 



side in the modern part, built in the 
18th cent. 

The Rathhaus in the market-place is 
picturesque. 

The Gothic Ch. (Stift St. Georg), 
1412, containing exquisitely carved 
stalls, &c, of that date, deserves notice. 
The Mantel Thurm and Schloss Gate 
are very ancient. 

The Damm is the name of an agree- 
able promenade around a sheet of water 
on the S. side of the town. 

The inhabitants of the Duchy of 
Altenburg, by descent Wends, a branch 
of the Slavonic family (see p. 400), are 
distinguished by their very peculiar and 
old-fashioned costumes handed down to 
them by their ancestors. The petti- 
coats of the women, like a Highlander's 
kilt, reach no further than the knee ; 
their bodies are enclosed in a cuirass of 
basket-work, and their heads are sur- 
mounted by a conical cap of portentous 
dimensions. The people have lost their 
language and speak German, but re- 
tain many old customs as well as their 
dress. 

Near Altenburg and Gera the Saxon 
tin-mines are situated. 

For the road from Altenburg to 
Dresden see Rte. 94a. 

2 Gossnitz Stat. 

If Krimmitschau Stat. 

1\ Werdau Stat. Beyond this station 
a branch railway, 1 Germ. m. long, 
turns off to Zwickau. (Rte. 90.) 1. 
rises the castle of Schonfels on a 
wooded height. 

Neumarkt Stat. 

Reichenbach Stat. [Inns : Daes 
Lamm; Engel) is a thriving manu- 
facturing town ; it has 4500 inhab., who 
are chiefly employed in the manufac- 
ture of muslin, and in spinning and 
weaving cotton and wool into kersey- 
meres, merinos, flannel, and " English 
thread." A fire in 1833 destroyed a 
great part of the town. 

Beyond Reichenbach Stat, the Rail- 
way is carried over the deep Goltsch- 
thal on a high level bridge 2046 ft. long 
(\ m.) and 278 ft. high, where the 
valley is deepest. It is composed of 4 
tiers of arches, one over the other, but 
in the centre the stream is crossed by 2 
arches, one above the other, 90 ft. span. 



472 



ROUTE 91 a.— LEIPZIG TO CARLSBAD. 



Sect. VII. 



There are 80 arches in this structure — 
the grandest of its sort in Germany. 
Nearer to Plauen the river and vale of 
the Elster are bridged by another viaduct 
of a different and more elegant design, 
891 ft. long and 225 ft. high, consisting 
of a lower tier of 2 arches, 93 ft. span, 
surmounted by an upper tier of 6 arches. 
It is chiefly of brick -work. 

3 Plauen [Inns : Post ; Deutsches 
Haus), a town of 11,000 inhab., also 
deriving prosperity from manufactures 
of linen, cotton, and muslin. It is irre- 
gularly built on uneven ground, and is 
traversed by the stream of the White 
Elster, which waters a romantic valley, 
and produces pearls ; a royal fishery is 
established at Oelsnitz for collecting 
them. A great part of the town is new, 
rebuilt after a fire which consumed it in 
1844. The old Castle (called Rath- 
schauer), rising high above the town, 
was in ancient times the residence of 
the Bailiff, or Voigt (Advocatus regni), 
from whom the surrounding district got 
the name of Voigtland ; it is now con- 
verted into public offices. 

The railway passes over the high 
land which forms the watershed of the 
Elster and the Saale. The country is 
rather pleasing, partly cultivated, and 
partly covered with fir woods. 

Meltheuer Stat. 

Eeuth Stat. About 4 m. beyond 
this the railway crosses the Bavarian 
frontier. 

Hof Stat. — Inns: Hirsch, at the 
Railway ; Brandenburger Hof. This 
is the first Bavarian town ; it contains 
8000 inhab., and possesses important 
manufactures of cotton and woollen 
goods. Its situation is so elevated that 
only the hardier kinds of fruits come to 
perfection. The country around is bleak 
and barren ; the rock is primary lime- 
stone abounding in fossils ; and there 
are many iron-mines in the district. 
The town of Hof was burnt down for 
the tenth time recorded in its annals in 
1832, and consequently a large part is 
newly built. A handsome Eathhaus and 
a church were erected in 1833, but the 
place has nothing to detain the tra- 
veller. The frontiers of Saxony, Reuss, 
Prussia (the town of Gefall is Prussian), 
and Bohemia, are not more than 10 m. 



distant from Hof. An extensive smug- 
gling trade is carried on with Bohemia. 
The Railway connects Hof with Nu- 
remberg and Augsburg, passing Kulm- 
bach, Lichtenfels, and Bamberg. (See 
Handbook for S. Germany, Route 
172.) 

ROUTE 91 a. 

LEIPZIG TO CARLSBAD. 

N.B. It is advisable to have the 
signature of an Austrian Minister on 
the passport before commencing the 
journey to Carlsbad. 

Proceed by the Railway described in 
Route 91, as far as Zwickau. 

From Zwickau the road to Carlsbad, 
11^ Germ, m., conducts to 

4 Schneeberg [Inns: Sachsischer 
Hof, good ; Fiirstenhaus), an import- 
ant mining town of 7500 inhab., chiefly 
engaged in the mines, and in preparing 
the ores of silver, cobalt, &c, obtained 
from them. There is also a consider- 
able manufactory of smalt here. That 
used in the Dresden china is prepared 
here from the cobalt. The town was 
founded 1471, in consequence of the 
discovery of the mines. The Parish 
Church is a very fine building, in the 
latest Gothic, 1516-40. Its altar-piece 
is the finest work of the elder Cranach, 
the Crucifixion, and at the back the 
Last Judgment, with 8 wings or shut- 
ters ; they are interesting as specimen- 
of Protestant art, and the treatment of 
sacred subjects after the Reformation. 
Schneeberg snuff, a preparation of herbs 
found on the mountains of the Erzge- 
birge, taken as common snuff, is said to 
be good for sore eyes, and to cure head- 
aches. In the neighborhood are the 
picturesque castles of Stein, Eisenburg, 
and Wiesenburg. 

The mining district of the Erzge- 
birge (ore mountains) displays few of 
the beauties of nature on its surface. 
Her bounty has here been expended 
below ground, where she has stored 
away, for the use of man, vast supplies 
of silver, lead, tin, iron, cobalt, and coal. 
The soil is poor, vegetation is scanty, 
and is further checked in the vicinity of 
the mines by the vapours from smelting 
furnaces ; and the face of the country is 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 92. CASSEL TO EISENACH. 



473 



disfigured by hillocks of rubbish, and 
heaps of slag. 

The road passes through Eiben- 
stock (Inn, Sachsischcrd Hof), a mining- 
town of 4400 inhab. ; in and about it 
are furnaces, foundries, and tin-mines. 

3 Wildenthal. (Inn, Post.) Hence 
to Carlsbad there are two roads. (See 
the other described in Bte. 94 a.) On 
the road here described there are no 
relays of post-horses between Wilden- 
thal and Carlsbad. 

1\ Johann - Georgenstadt (vulgarly 
called Hansgorgenstadt) . — Inns : Bath- 
skeller; Schiesshaus. A mining town, 
named after the Elector John George, 
in whose reign it was built as an asylum 
for the Protestants driven out of Bo- 
hemia by Ferdinand II., 1654. It has 
about 3400 inhab. It stands in a rough 
and very elevated district, a sort of 
Saxon Siberia, whose produce lies be- 
neath the barren surface, and consists 
of silver, tin, lead, iron, cobalt, bismuth, 
uranium, &c. The men are chiefly 
miners, the women employ themselves 
in making bobbinet. Hence to the 
Bohemian frontier is not more than ^ 
am. 

4 Carlsbad, in Handbook for South 
Gkrmany (Bte. 260). The nearest 
road from Carlsbad to Dresden is by 
Joachimsthal, Annaberg, and Freiberg. 
South Germany". (Bte. 259.) 

EOUTE 92. 

CASSEL TO EISENACH — (RAILWAY) TO 
MEININGEN AND COBURG-. 

The Friedrich - Wilhelms Nordbahn 
connects Cassel with Eisenach. Trains 
in 4 h. 

Eisenach to Coburg, 14f Germ. m. 
== 68^ Eng. m. 

The railway, as far as Bebra, runs 
through the valley of the Fulda, on the 
rt. bank of that river. 

(hmtershausen Stat. This station is 
the point of junction of the Railways 
from Eisenach and Halle, upon the 
Fraiikfurt and Cassel line. Bte. 70. 

Melsungen Stat. The Fulda is 
crossed. 

Morschen Stat. 

Rothenburg Stat. 

Bebra Stat, on the Fulda. 



Gerstungen Stat. This town is n 
the Duchy of Weimar, on the river 
Werra, along the valley of which the 
railway runs, crossing it 3 times, to 

Eisenach (Bte. 86). Schnellpost daily 
fromEisenach to Meiningen and Coburg, 
after the arrival of the morning train 
from Cassel. 

The valley of the Werra, below 
Eisenach, to Kreuzberg and Eschwege, 
is picturesque and fertile ; the Meissner 
hiH is a fine object. 

From Eisenach the road runs nearly 
S., traversing a hilly district, almost 
entirely covered with the woods of the 
great Thuringian Forest. It surmounts 
one of the highest ridges of the district, 
at the pass of Hohe Sonne. On the 
opposite descent lies Wilhelmsthal, a 
chateau of the Duke of Saxe- Weimar. 



At Gumpelstadt a road turns off to 
the 1. to the Bath of Liebenstein (Inns: 
Badhaus, good; Neubau), charmingly 
situated on the skirts of the Thuringian 
Forest. The court of Saxe Meiningen 
passes a portion of the bath season here, 
in the building called Furstenhaus. 
The spring furnishes one of the strongest 
chalybeate waters in Germany, more 
used for bathing than drinking. Lie- 
benstein affords the usual amusements 
of a watering-place — daily music on 
the walks, baUs, concerts, gaming- 
tables, and theatrical performances 
during the season. A little way behind 
the baths is the Erdfall, a deep recess 
in the mountain side, piled round with 
masses of rock, somewhat resembling a 
colossal Cyclopean waU, overgrown at 
the top with trees, so as to form an 
agreeable retreat in hot weather. Plea- 
sant walks lead from thence along the 
heights to the Old Castle of Liebenstein, 
the cradle of the family of Saxe Mein- 
ingen. It is founded on the rock, and 
parts of its foundation walls fill up 
the chasms in the limestone. Its towers 
command a delightful view over the 
forests of Thuringia, along the vale of 
the Werra, and as far as the Bhonge- 
birge. 

About 3 m. from Liebenstein is the 
Duke of Saxe Meiningen' s chateau 
Altenstein, very finely situated on the 
brow of a hiU, with a grassplat and 



474 



ROUTE 92. SCHMALKALDEN. MEININGEN". Sect. VII. 



fountain in front, and surrounded by a 
beautiful park. A crucifix is planted 
on a projecting rock, marking, accord- 
ing to tradition, the spot from which 
St. Boniface, the apostle of Germany, 
preached Christianity to the pagan in- 
habitants of the country. -^ an hour's 
walk from the castle, in the midst of 
the forest, but not far from the road, 
stood until 1841, when it was blown 
down, " Luther's Buche" (Luther's 
Beech), so called from the tradition that 
it was beneath it that the bold Reformer, 
on his return from "Worms, after the 
Papal bull had been uttered against him, 
was surprised by a party of armed men 
in masks, who mounted him on their 
horses and carried him away a prisoner 
to the castle of "Wartburg. This sur- 
prise was concerted by his friend and 
patron the Elector Frederick the Wise 
of Saxony. It was a magnificent tree, 
6 ft. in diameter, overtopping all the 
rest of the forest. 

At Glucksbrunn, a village half way 
between Liebenstein and Altenstein, is 
one of the most remarkable of the Ca- 
verns in which the limestone (dolomite) 
of this district abounds. 

[A good road leads from Liebenstein 
to Schmalkalden, about 10 m. distant. 
This ancient and unaltered town, of 
5400 inhab., still preserves its double 
row of antique ramparts, and its fosse. 
Its houses are mostly built of wood, 
with timber framework, and, like those 
of Chester and Shrewsbury, have a 
highly picturesque character. Most of 
its inhabitants are smiths, and follow 
their trade in shops on the ground floor. 
In the market-place stand the Gothic 
Church and the two chief Inns, Adler 
and Krone ; the latter comfortable : in 
it the famous Protestant League of 
Schmalkalden was signed, 1531. In the 
Sannersche Haus, the articles of the 
League were drawn up by Luther, Me- 
lancthon, Agricola, and other divines. 
That Confederation was of the highest 
consequence to the cause of the Refor- 
mation, and proved so discouraging to 
its opponents that no one dared mention 
Schmalkalden in the presence of the 
Empr. Charles V. On a height above 
the town rises the old Electoral castle, 
Wilhclmsburg. The valley in which 



Schmalkalden stands may be regarded as 
one great smithy; its inhabitants are 
chiefly workmen in metal, cutlers, 
makers of gimlets, &c. The iron ore is 
supplied from numerous mines in the 
vicinity. Eelow the town are extensive 
salt-works.] 

Eisenach to Coburg continued. 

The road from Gumpelstadt descends 
into the pretty valley of the Werra, which 
divides 2 of the boldest mountain ridges 
in central Germany — the Thiiringerwald 
and the Hohe Rhon. The land is fer- 
tile, and much tobacco is cultivated. 

2^ Barchfeld, on the rt. bank of the 
Werra. 

2 Schwallungen. 

rt. On a height above the Werra 
stands the modern ducal castle, Schloss 
Landsberg, ornamented with frescoes 
and glass paintings by Munich artists, 
in good taste. It commands beautiful 
views. 

2 Meiningen (Inns : Sachsischer Hof ; 
Hirsch), a town of 6000 inhab., built 
in the form of a harp, on the rt. bank 
of the Werra, encircled by wooded hills. 
It is the capital of the Duchy of Saxe 
Meiningen, and residence of the Duke, 
the brother of the late Queen Dowager 
of England. The principal building is 
the Palace, containing various collec- 
tions of art and natmal history. There 
are an agreeable Park and gardens at- 
tached to it, and within these a modern 
Gothic Chapel with painted glass from 
Munich. The Jews form an important 
quota of the commivnity, and have re- 
cently built a handsome new quarter. 

The Church is ancient, but defaced by 
pews and galleries. Behind the altar 
are some curious monuments of knights, 
and in the sacristy some specimens of 
church plate, vestments, &c. 

[A road strikes off from Meiningen to 
Kissingen, by MeUrichstadt (2^G. m.), 
through part of the forest, to Neustadt 
(2 G. m.), an old walled town on the 
Franconian Saal, overhung by the in- 
teresting and extensive remains of the 
castle of Salzburg. Here is a neat clean 
Inn. Munnerstadt (1 G. m.) to Ivissin- 
gen (1-i G. m.). See Handbook S. 
Germany.] 

2-^ Themar. Inn, Post. 

1§ Hildburghauseu. Inns ; Saehsis- 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 92. — COBURG. 



475 



6h.es Haus, fair ; Englisch.es Haus. The 
Palace was, down to 1826, the residence 
of the Dukes of Saxe Hildburghausen, 
until the extinction of the line of Gotha, 
when they removed to Altenburg, and 
Hildburghausen was united to Meinin- 
gen. The town contains about 4000 
inhab., many Jews. It is a lifeless 
place. The older quarter is of consi- 
derable antiquity. 

[7 m. W. is Romhild, in whose Church 
are remarkable monuments of the Counts 
of Henneberg, cast in bronze in 1520, 
by Peter Vischer and his sons.] 

1^ Eodach. 

2^ Coburg. Inns : Griiner Eaum 
(Poste), dirty ; Schwan, no better. This 
is one of the residence towns of the 
Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, the other 
being Gotha. Pop. about 10,000. It 
is remarkable for its clean and opu- 
lent-looking houses. In the market- 
place are some picturesque old houses. 
The Palace called Ehrenburg, the town 
residence of the Duke, built 1549, is a 
Gothic edifice, forming 3 sides of a 
quadrangle, with a turreted entrance. 
It contains a collection of Engravings, 
which are not shown, and has some 
handsome apartments. There are some 
fine specimens of marqueterie in the 
doors, and Coburg is to this day cele- 
brated for that manufacture. 

The Theatre belongs to the Duke, 
and is extremely well conducted. In 
the Arsenal (Zeughaus) there is some 
fine armour and arms of all ages, and 
some Turkish trophies, won by the 
Prince of Coburg, Austrian field-mar- 
shal. 

The ancient Castle of the Dukes of 
Coburg is situated on a commanding 
eminence, 523 ft. above the town. The 
views from it extend over the Thurin- 
gerwald as far as the Franconian Swit- 
zerland. It is partly converted into a 
Prison and a House of Correction ; but 
some of the chambers remain in their 
original condition. The rooms occupied 
by Luther, the bedstead he slept upon 
during his concealment here, and the 
pulpit from which he preached in the 
curious old Chapel, are shown. The 
" horn room" is panelled with oak in- 
laid with woods of different kinds, and 
enclosing mosaic pictures. Another 



room contains portraits of persons en- 
gaged in the Seven Years' War. There 
is much valuable armour here that de- 
serves to be arranged. The Castle was 
besieged by Wallenstein in the Thirty 
Years' War (1632). He made the 
town of Coburg his head-quarters for 
some time. Outside the walls may 
still be seen the remains of the chains 
to which the limbs of a traitor, who at- 
tempted to betray the place, were hung 
in full view of the besieging army. 
Wallenstein was at length compelled to 
raise the siege. 

Among the many country-houses be- 
longing to the Duke, the hunting-seats 
of Rosenau and Kallenberg most deserve 
notice for the elegant style in which 
they are fitted up, and the beauty of 
their situation. The parks and forests 
around them abound in game of every 
description. At Eosenau, 4 m. from 
Coburg, Prince Albert was born, and 
here Queen Victoria was lodged 11 days 
in 18i5. It is an old manor-house sur- 
rounded by trees. An avenue 2 m. long- 
leads to it. 

Postvc'dgen run between Coburg and 
the Lichtenfels Stat, on the Hof and 
Nuremberg railway (9 m.), several times 
a day, each way, in If hr., in connec- 
tion with the trains. The road on 
leaving Coburg descends the valley of 
the Itz, on its 1. bank, as far as Unter 
Sieman, which is nearly half way, and 
then crosses the hills into the valley of 
the Main. Handbook for S. Ger- 
many, Ete. 172. 

EOTJTE 93. 

GOTT1NGEN TO GOTHA, COBURG, AND 
BAMBERG. 

32 Germ. m. =151 Eng. m., a mac- 
adamised road. About a mile from 
Heiligenstadt the Prussian frontier is 
crossed, and travellers are subjected to 
rather a strict search. 

3| Heiligenstadt. — Inns : Preus- 
sischer Hof; Deutsches Haus. (See 
Ete. 67, p. 369.) This was formerly 
capital of the district called Eichsfeld. 

2 Dingelstadt. 

2± Miihlhausen (Inns : Schwan ; 
Konig von Preussen), an ancient 
walled town of 12,000 inhab., plea- 



476 



ROUTE 93. GOTTINGEN TO GOTHA, ETC. 



Sect. VII. 



santly situated in the midst of a very 
fertile country on the Unstrut. It was 
anciently a free city of the empire. The 
Hauptkirche in the Oherstadt is the 
finest church. Miinzer, the fanatic 
preacher, who excited the Thuringian 
peasants to revolt in 1524-25, made 
Miihlhausen his head-quarters, and col- 
lected around him a misguided host of 
30,000 men, expelling the legitimate 
magistrates. His undisciplined bands, 
however, were soon dispersed in the 
battle of Frankenhausen ; he himself 
was brought hither a prisoner, and, after 
being tortured, was publicly executed. 
In his mad harangues he equally abused 
Luther and the Pope. 

2| Langensalza {Inns: Mohr; Sonne), 
an industrious manufacturing town, 
with a pop. of 7000. 

About 2 m. out of the town is a 
saline sulphureous spring of some re- 
putation, supplying Baths, much re- 
sorted to in summer. 

2£ Gotha.— In Rte. 86. 

2 Ohrdruf [Inn, Anker — Post), 
a considerable town of the Thuringer- 
wald, containing 3500 inhab. The 
road now begins to ascend the highest 
ridge of the Thuringian mountains, by 
easy traverses, admirably constructed. 

2 Oberhoff a hamlet of 46 wooden 
houses occupied by wood-cutters, with 
post-house and Inn, close to the Duke's 
Hunting Lodge. " The forest here may 
almost be called primaeval ; the pines 
often attain the height of 280 ft. It 
yields a yearly revenue of 100,000^. in 
building-timber alone. Game of every 
description abounds ; the red deer are 
of an enormous size ; and that elsewhere 
rare bird the bustard occurs here in 
great numbers. Between 700 and 800 
stags are killed in a year ; and 20 or 30 
of these noble animals may be seen from 
the road in passing in the evening. The 
Duke is allowed to have the finest 
chasse in Germany." — W. 

At the little town of Zella a road 
strikes off on the rt. by Benhausen 
(2 G. m.) to Meiningen (2£ G. m.). 
See Rte. 92. 

Soon after leaving Oberhoff the road 
attains its highest elevation. The view 
here is truly magnificent, over a great 
extent of this noble forest, the dark 



abyss of its valleys, and its mountains 
clad with pines, except their often 
craggy summits. From this point we 
descend to 

2 Suhl {Inns: Deutsches Haus, best;- 
Krone), the principal town of the Prus- 
sian county of Henneberg, prettily 
situated in the valley of the Lauter, at 
the base oftheDomberg, a cliff of which, 
the Ottilienstein, a grand rock of por- 
phyry, appears to overhang the town, 
and commands a fine view. Pop. 
7118, chiefly weavers of linen or woollen, 
or gunsmiths. Suhl has long been cele- 
brated for its fire-arms, and for centuries 
was the only manufactory of them in 
Germany. 

2 Schleusingen. — Inn. Griiner Baum. 
Rte. 94 b. 



If Hildburghausen. 
If Rodach. 



>In Rte. 92. 



2i COBURG. J 

This road is important as a line of 
communication between ~N. and S. 
Germany ; and there is much traffic 
of merchandise upon it. It enters the 
territory of Bavaria about half way 
between Coburg and 

2 Lichtenfels {Inns : Krone, dear and 
dirty ; Kreutz), a town of 2000 inhab., 
on the Main, carrying on some trade in 
timber floated down the river. It is a 
Stat, on the Railroad from Leipzig to 
Nuremburg, by Bamberg. It runs for 
some distance on the 1. bank of the 
Main, near Staffelstein, a village pos- 
sessing a celebrated pilgrimage Church 
of the Vierzehn Heiligen, under the 
Staffelberg, a remarkable table hill, 
which hems in the river on the 1., while 
on the rt. rises a height, crowned by 
the suppressed convent of Banz, now 
residence of Prince Max, brother of the 
King of Bavaria. The Main, on issuing 
from this opening in the hills, flows past 
the small town of Zapfendorf, to 

Bamberg Stat. — in Handbook South 
Germany. 

ROUTE 94. 

LEIPZIG TO COBURG, BY JENA, RUDOL- 
STADT, AND SONNEBERG. 

25f Germ. m. _ 120| Eug. m. Eil- 
wagen daily. 

6f Naumburg, in Rte. 86. 

2 Kambwrg, on the Saale. It was 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 94. — LEIPZIG TO COBURG. 



477 



through the defile in the rear of the 
castle of Dornhurg that the French 
marched to outflank the Prussians at 
the battle of Jena, 1806. Bad road. 

1-5 Jena, in Ete. 94 a. The road 
continues to follow the pretty valley of 
the Saale ascending it along the 1. bank 
of that river. 

2 Kahla (Inns : Stern ; Lowe), a 
town of 1200 inhab. On the opposite 
bank of the Saale stands the castle of 
Leuchtenburg, now a prison. The next 
object worth mentioning is the ruined 
castle Orlamilnde, on a hill beneath 
which the road passes. 

3 Budolstadt (Inns : Lowe ; Adler ; 
Bitter), the chief town of the princi- 
pality of Schwarzburg - Budolstadt. 
Pop. 4000. On the summit of an 
eminence nearly 200 ft. above the river 
stands the residence of the prince, the 
Castle of Heideksburg, containing some 
pictures and a library. The Ludwigsburg 
in the town contains a cabinet of natural 
history, rich in shells. Opposite Volks- 
stadt a bust of Schiller has been set up 
to commemorate the poet's residence 
here in 1788. 

At Schwarza (Inn, Bremer Hof.), 3 
m. above Budolstadt, the river Schwarza 
joins the Saale. 5 m. from Budolstadt, 
above the small town of Blankenburg 
(Inn, Schwazburger Hof or Chrysopras, 
^ m. out of the town, is best), rise the 
picturesque ruins of the castle of Greif- 
enstein, birthplace of the unfortunate 
Empr. Giinther of Schwarzburg. 5 m. 
farther up this winding valley, one of 
the most beautiful in Thuringia, on the 
summit of a bold precipitous rock, 
stands the Castle of Schwarzburg. The 
greater part of the building is modern, 
erected after a conflagration, 1726. It 
presents little worth seeing except the 
Kaiser Saal, a relic still preserved of 
the old castle. It contains portraits of 
Boman emperors, from Julius Caesar to 
Charles IV., miserable daubs, and some 
ancient armour, including a suit attri- 
buted to the Empr. Giinther. Inn, 
Weisser Hirsch, near Schwarzburg. 
Travellers should ascend the Tripstein, 
lg m. from the castle, for the sake of 
the unrivalled view. There is a cross 
road from Blankenburg to the interest- 
ing ruins of the Abbey of Paidinzelle, 9 



m. distant. It was founded, 1105, by 
Pauline, daughter of the cupbearer of 
the Empr. Henry IV. It is finely 
situated in the depths of a forest. The 
church is a very interesting monument 
of the plain Byzantine or Eomanesque 
style ; date, the close of the 11th cent. ; 
the E. end is gone. Near the abbey are 
the monks' fish-ponds, and a good Inn. 

1 Saalfeld. — Inns : Goldener Anker, 
one of the oldest inns in Germany ; 
the Empr. Charles V. put up here, 
along with his prisoner the Elector 
John Frederick, June 27, 1547 ; Bau- 
tenkranz in the suburb. 

Saalfeld is a very ancient walled 
town, in the midst of the Thuringian 
forest, and contains 4800 inhab. The 
Rathhaus in the market-place is a vene- 
rable Gothic edifice. The Gothic Ch. 
of St. John was built 1212, out of funcfs 
produced by the neighbouring gold- 
mines of Beichmannsdorf ; the painted 
glass, and a colossal wooden statue of 
St. John in the interior, deserve men- 
tion. Near the town wall, at the side 
of the Saale, are the ruins of the Sor- 
benburg, a fort dating from the 8th 
cent., built, according to tradition, to 
defend the frontier from inroads of the 
Slavonic barbarians, the Sorbic-Vends. 

The old Ducal Castle, also within the 
town, is now the Mint. 

In the suburb outside the waUs is 
the more modern Chateau or Palace of 
the Dukes of the extinct line of Saxe- 
Saalfeld, with fine gardens attached to 
it. The road now quits the banks of 
the Saale, and begins to ascend the 
central ridge of the Thiiringerwald. 
The battle of Jena, so fatal to Prussia, 
began near Saalfeld. A cast-iron 
monument has been erected to Prince 
Lewis of Prussia on the spot where 
he fell. 

2^ Grafenthal {Inns : Post ; Weisses 
Boss). Near this you have a fine view 
of Wespenstein, an old castle of the 
Pappenheims, in ruins. 

3-^ Sonneberg. This little town of 
3200 inhab. is chiefly remarkable for 
the peculiar manufacture of toys, dolls, 
boxes of various kinds, including pill- 
boxes, boot-jacks, chess-boards, and the 
endless variety of articles for the amuse- 
ment of children which fill the toy- 



478 



ROUTE 9ia. WEIMAR TO CARLSBAD. 



Sect. VII. 



shops of every quarter of the globe, 
and are commonly called Butch toys. 
There are several manufactories of 
papier mache, to make dolls' heads, and 
of pipe-heads; and one or two mills 
for grinding boys' marbles. Hones for 
sharpening knives are prepared here 
out of a species of slate ; and there is 
also a quarry producing slate-pencils 
in the neighbourhood. Altogether the 
trade in toys is supposed to produce 
400,000 fl. yearly. Here is a pretty mo- 
dern Gothic Church built from. Heideloff's 
-designs ; the vaulted roof is of wood. 

2 Neustadt. — Inn, Halbe Mond. 
l£ Coburg. (In Rte. 92.) 

ROUTE 94 a. 

WEIMAR TO CARLSBAD BY JENA, 
m ALTENBURG, GERA. 

Posting, 1st day to Altenburg, 68 
Eng. m. in 11 h. ; 2nd day to Carlsbad, 
76| Eng. m., in 13± h. 

This is a good post-road through 
beautiful and richly cultivated country, 
and may afford a variation of the 
journey to those acquainted with the 
usual route by Leipzig. The first part 
of the road traverses some singularly 
bare-looking ravines, one of which 
leads down into the broad valley in 
which stands 

1^ Jena {Inn, Sonne), a dull, dingy, 
antiquated town, in a hollow sur- 
rounded by naked hills, having nothing- 
worth notice but its University, founded 
1550, and numbering at present about 
500 students. " Groups of them, in 
falling collars not particularly clean, 
and flowing hair not remarkably glossy, 
may be seen swaggering about with 
foils, masks, and cudgels." — L. R. G. 
The University Museum is valuable to 
students. The Garden of the Observa- 
tory was Schiller's favourite resort while 
Professor of History, between 1789 
and 1799, and he composed in it some 
of his poems. 

" The road, somewhat narrow and 
very serpentine, but not bad, takes 
its course among clear streams and 
happy-looking villages, 'and afterwards" 
through forests of pine, to 

3 Kloster Launitz, a clean village 
inn. 



There is a new and better road from 
Jena to 

3 Eisenberg. 

2-J Gera {Inn, Reussischer Hof, very 
good), a picturesque, clean, and thriving 
modern town, of 11,000 inhab., on the 
Elster, belonging to the sovereign 
princes of Reuss-Schleitz and Ebers- 
dorf. 

The Castle of the Prince ofR. Ebers- 
dorf, backed by hanging woods, rises 
over against the town, and adds much 
to its picturesque appearance. 

Roneberg, a small modern town and 
watering-place, is passed, and the road 
traverses a country not particularly in- 
teresting, abounding in mines. 

1-g- Schmollen. Smelting-house. 

2 Altenburg. — Inn, Stadt Gotha; good. 
(See p. 471.) 

A railroad rims hence to Leipzig, 
and to Zwickau (Rte. 91). 

Beyond this the road enters the 
Erzgebirge. 

3 Schneeberg (Rte. 91a). 

3 Wildenthal {Inn, Post), a neat vil- 
lage at the foot of the Auersberg, 
where a good deal of lace is made and 
sold. 

The Bohemian (Austrian) Custom- 
house and Passport-office (§ 86) is at 
Hirschenstand. After following for a 
long way a wooded gorge, you at length 
emerge from the hills a little beyond 

2^ ISTeudeck {Inn, Stadtischer Gast- 
hof). Here you find yourself in the 
undulating valley of the Eger. 

2^ Carlsbad {Inn^rinz vonPreussen), 
in Handbook South Germany. 

There is a road from Altenburg to 
Dresden \>y Rochlitz, 3-^. "Waldheim, 
2|. Nossen, 3. Wilsdruff, 2|. Dres- 
den, 2|. Or by way of Freiberg to 
Penig, 2^. Chemnitz, 3 ; and thence 
as in Ete. 90. 

ROUTE 94 b. 

ERF CRT TO COBURG. 

15 Germ m. = 69 Eng. m. 

A new road, but not furnished with 
post-horses, connects Erfurt with 
Schleusingen on the road from Gotha 
to Coburg. The road is very pretty 
from Erfurt to 

2^ Amstadt. — Inns : Die Hemic ; 



Saxony. 



ROUTE 946. — ERFURT TO COBURG. 



479 



Der Greif. 5300 inhab. The Lieb- 
frauenkirche, a specimen of German 
architecture of the 12th and 13th cent., 
displays peculiar sculpture on its ex- 
terior, I and some interesting monu- 
ments within. The Schloss, formerly 
the residence of the Schwarzburg fa- 
mily, descended, on the failure of that 
line, to the Sondershausen family. Of 
the old Schloss there only remains a 
tower, and some walls of 1554. 

[A new road (4f Germ. m. in length) 
has been opened between Arnstadt and 
Rudolstadt through a 'beautiful coun- 
try.] After leaving Arnstadt the road 
runs through a narrow valley amidst 
beechwood, and then rises, passing 
among fields, to 

2^ Ilmenau (Inn, Lowe). This town 
of 2700 inhab. belongs to Weimar. 
Here are mines of manganese and iron. 
Near it is Elgersburg, romantically 



situated, and an establishment for the 
cold-water cure. The road after leaving 
Ilmenau ascends for 2 m. to a height 
of 2500 ft., and then descends with 
many windings through a forest be- 
longing to the King of Prussia to 

4 Schleusingen (Inn, Griiner Baum, 
3000 inhab.), a town formerly belong- 
ing to the Counts of Henneberg, now 
to Prussia. The old castle of Bertholds- 
burg, prettily situated on a hill, has 
been repaired, by the King of Prussia. 
In a chapel built 1723, adjoining the 
Stadtkirche, are the tombs of the old 
Counts of Henneberg ; and in the 
neighbourhood a suppressed Prsemon- 
strant Abbey, an interesting monument 
of German architecture of the 12 th 
cent. 

If Hildburghausen. 



If Rodach. 
2^ Coburg. 



Rte. 92. 



480 



54. MONEY. 



Sect. VIII. 



SECTION VIII. 

NASSAU. — FRANKFURT. — HESSE - DARMSTADT. — RHENISH 
BAVARIA. — BADEN. — AND THE RHINE FROM MAYENCE 
TO STRASBURG. 



preliminary information. — 54. Money. — 55. Posting. 



ROUTE PAGE 

95. The Brunnen of Nassau. 
Coblenz to Frankfurt on the 
Main, by Ems, Schwalbach, 
Schlangeribad, and Wiesbaden 482 

Giessen to Coblenz, and 
Descent of the Lahn from 
Weilburg to Limburg and Ems 

The Taunus Mountains — 
Wiesbaden to Frankfurt by 
Eppstein, Konigstein, and 
Homburg 

Bingen to 
gelheim 

Railway. 
Frankfurt 
100. Vale of the Nahe— Bingen to 
Kreuznach and Saarbriick . 
Saarbriick to Treves . 

Mayence to Metz 

The Rhine (E.), Mayence 
to Worms, Mannheim, Spires, 
and Strasburg. — Rail. . 511 



96. 



97. 



98. 



99. 



100a 

101. 

102. 



Mayence by In- 
Mayence to 



501 



503 

506 

506 

507 
510 
510 



ROUTE PAGE 

103. Mannheim to Treves . . 520 

104. Mannheim to Zweibrticken 

by Neustadt, Landau, and 
Annweiler .... 520 

105. Frankfurt to Basle by Darm- 

stadt, the Bergstrasse, and 
Odenwald, Heidelberg, Carls- 
ruhe, and Freiburg Rail- 
way .... 523 

106. Branch Railway to Baden. 

Baden .... 541 

107. To Strasburg, frfta the Baden- 

Railway .... 547 

108. Offenburgto Schaffhausen and 

Constance by the Kinzig 
Thai and Donaueschingen . 551 

109. Freiburg to Schaffhausen 

by the Hollenthal . . 555 

110. Heidelberg to Wiirzburg by 

Mosbach , . . .556 



§ 54. MONEY. 

In Nassau, Baden, Darmstadt, Frankfurt, &c, accounts are kept in Florins or 
Gulden. 1 Florin (= Is. 8a*.), contains 60 kreutzers. 3 kr. = la*. 



Gold Coins [rare). 



Caroline (or French Louis d'Or) 
Ducat .... 



Fl. kr. 

= 11 6 to 12. 
= 5 24 to 36. 



The States of Southern and Western Germany, including Bavaria, Wurteni- 
berg, Baden, Hesse, and Frankfurt, have recently combined to issue a uniform 
coinage. (See § 32.) 



Nassau. 



55. POSTING. 



481 



New Silcer Coinage. 

Vereins Thaler = 3 florins 30 kr. = 2 Prussian dollars. 
kr. 
Florin . . = 60 = Is. M. = 2 Fr. francs 15 cents. 

i Florin . . = 30 = lOd. 
a Florin . . = 15 = 5d. 

Pieces of 6 kr., 3 kr. or groschen, and 1 kr. 

Old Silver Coins. 
Crown, Kronthaler, or Brabant Fl. kr. 

Thaler . . . , — 2 42 
Pieces of two and one florin . 
Zwanziger . . , . = 24 

(N.B. 2^ zwanzigers make 1 florin.) 
^ Zwanziger . . . . = 12 = 0s. 4d. 
i Zwanziger . . . . = 6 = 0s. 2d. 

Formerly the florin was an imaginary coin, and did not exist as a piece of 
money. The name zwanziger properly applies to Austria alone, where this coin 
goes for 20 kreutzers, and bears upon it the figure 20, the ^ zwanziger or zehner 
passes for 10, and the £ for 5 kreutzers ; while in Bavaria and Wiirtemberg the 
same coins pass respectively for 24, 12, and 6 kr. 

Value of foreign coins in florins and kreutzers : — ■ 



= 4s. l^d. 

= 3s. 4d. and Is. Sd. 

0s. Sd. 



French Louis d'or. 

Napoleon 
English Sovereign 
Dutch 10-guilder piece 
■^ Kron or Brabant Thaler 
Conventions Thaler 
Prussian Frederic d'or 

Thaler . 
French 5 -franc piece 

1 -franc 



Fl. 
11 

9 
11 

9 

1 

2 

9 

1 

2 





kr. 

6 to 12 
30 to 20 
45 to 36 
54 to 10 fl, 
20 
24 
48 
45 
20 
28 



Brabant dollars (originally struck by the Emperor of Austria in the Low 
Countries) are a very common coin, current without loss throughout S. Ger- 
many. The table (A) at the beginning of this volume for reducing them into 
norms and kreutzers may be found useful. 



§ 55. POSTING. 

Each Horse. 
Fl. kr. 2 



Postilion. 

3 4 horses. 



30 
15 

30 



40 kr. 50 kr. 
40 50 

45 55 



lfl. 

1 

1 5kr. 



Tariff per post of 2 Germ. m. 

Frankfurt- A . -M. 

Nassau 

Darmstadt 

The postmaster in Mayence is authorised to charge 52^ kr. for each horse per 

post. l 

Baden . . 1 30 36 45 1 10 

The charges for horses vary from time to time with the price of forage. 

The charge for barriers ceases on entering this duchy. The usual rate of 
travelling is a post in \\ to l£ h. when the road is not very hilly. The 
distances to all the adjoining post stations are hung up in front of every post- 
house. J x 

[N. G.] Y 



482 



ROUTE 95. — THE BRUNNEN OF NASSAU. EMS. Sect. VIII. 



Travellers usually pay the postilion 1 fl. for 2 horses per post, which is quite 
enough. On some roads 1 fl. 12 kr. (3 zwanzigers) is given, which is high pay. 

N.B. An extra charge of 30 kr. per post is made hy the postmaster when a 
postboy, driving only 2 horses, is obliged to ride, and cannot sit on the box of 
the carriage. 

A light open carriage, holding 4 without heavy baggage, may be drawn by 2 
horses : a heavy trunk counts as one person. 

A postchaise or caleche costs from 50 kr. to 1 fl. a post. 

The "Wagenmeister, when entitled to be paid separately, usually receives 1 2 
kr., and 12 more when he greases the wheels. 

Charges at Inns: — Rooms on 1st floor, 1 fl. to 1 fl. 12 kr. ; 2nd or 3rd floor, 
36 kr. ; table-d'hote, 48 kr. to 1 fl. 12 kr. ; \ bottle of wine, 18 kr. ; breakfast 
(coffee or tea, with bread and butter), 20 kr. 

Mr. George Bernard's Illustrations of the Rhine and Brunnen of Nassau contain 
the cleverest and most exact representations of the scenes and persons occurring 
in that interesting district which the writer of this is acquainted with. 



KOUTES. 



ROUTE 95. 

THE BATHS AND BRUNNEN OF NASSAU. 
COBLENZ TO FRANKFURT - ON - THE 
MAIN, BY EMS, SCHWALBACH, SCHLAN- 
GENBAD, AND WIESBADEN. 

14 Germ. m. = 64 Eng. m. 

Schnellpost, as far as "Wiesbaden 
(whence a railroad runs to Frankfurt), 
every day, in 8 hrs. To Ems, omnibus 
4 or 5 times a-day in the season. 

The new road from Coblenz to Ems 
avoids the high hills, laboriously sur- 
mounted by the old road, and follows 
the rt. bank of the Rhine, passing 
orchards and vineyards, to Nieder- 
Lahnstein (p. 275), at the mouth of 
the Lahn ; and thence up its rt. bank 
through the village of Nievern, Ahl, 
and the iron- works of Hohenrain. The 
distance is nearly 12 m., a most agree- 
able drive of 2 hrs. through varied and 
beautiful scenery. 

There is a footpath over the hills by 
Arxheim and Fachbach, a walk of 2 hrs. 
— difficult to find without a guide. 

2 Ems. — Inns and lodging - houses : 
The Alte Kurhaus, a huge rambling 
chateau, formerly the residence of the 
Duke, consisting of several compart- 
ments, called the oberer and unterer 
Fliigelbau, the Mittelbau, and the 
Lahnbau, contains nearly 300 cham- 
bers, which are let, according to their . 
size and situation, at from 48 kr. to 



8 fl. a day. A good room may be had 
for 1 fl. 30 kr. : the price of every 
room is painted on the door. There 
is a restaurateur attached to the house, 
and a daily table-d'hote at 1, which, 
however, is not so good as that at some 
other inns. Those who intend to take 
up their lodgings in the Bath-house 
apply on their arrival to the Bad-, or 
Hans - meister, a species of steward, 
who has the charge of the establish- 
ment, and of the letting of the rooms, 
and who gives every information re- 
specting vacancies and prices. The 
rent of the rooms returns a consider- 
able annual revenue to the Duke of 
Nassau. — H. d' Angleterre, a very com- 
fortable house for families, but dear ; 
table-d'hote at 1, 54 kr. ; at 3, 1 fl. 30 
kr. H. de Russie ; good. Darmstadter 
Hof (Post). — Fiirstenhof. — Baieris- 
cher Hof, in the Obere Allee, remote 
from the bustle, and recommended as 
a lodging-house. — If. T. There is a 
table-d'hote at 1 in all the hotels, in 
the Kurhaus and Kursaal, and also 
one at 4 p.m. at the Kursaal and H. 
d' Angleterre and de Russie, chiefly 
for the English, and more expensive 
in consequence. — Britannia, formerly 
Mainzer Haus, on the 1. bank of the 
Lahn, a quiet lodging - house. — Die 
Vicr Thiirme (Four Towers) ; same 
landlord as H. d' Angleterre. — Die 
Yier Jahrszeiten — Panorama, new 



Nassau. 



ROUTE 95. — EMS. KURSAAL. SPRINGS. 



483 



and good, on the S. side of the river, 
and therefore preferahle in hot weather. 
The Burg Nassau, next door to the 
H. d'Angleterre, is recommended as 
a lodging-house. The houses on the 
1. bank of the Lahn are cheaper and 
quieter than those on the rt. 

The watering-place (§ 41) Ems is 
very prettily situated on the rt. hank 
of the Lahn, hemmed in between it 
and the cliffs of the B'aderlei, which 
recede from the water's edge only far 
enough to allow room for a row of 
houses. It is neither town nor village, 
but a collection of lodging-houses, 
with the Kurhaus in the midst. In 
front of them runs the high road, and 
between it and the river a long narrow 
strip of garden, forming a sort of ter- 
race by the river-side, and serving as a 
promenade for the guests. A band of 
Bohemian musicians, who repair hither 
every year, plays here during the sea- 
son from 7 to 8-3 A.M., and from 6 to 8 
p.m., to the tune of whose instruments 
the guests digest their potations of spa- 
water. Six o'clock in the afternoon is 
the hour at which Ems appears in full 
glory : all the •world is then abroad, 
the promenade is crowded with visitors 
of all nations, and some of the highest 
rank, in the gayest costume. Those 
who are ambitious to extend their walks 
beyond this, unless they confine them- 
selves to the borders of the beautiful 
Lahn, must begin immediately to as- 
cend, so near at hand are the hills. 

Close to the little bridge of boats, 
and along both sides of the river, 
squadrons of donkeys are posted with 
their drivers, ever on the alert for 
employers. By their assistance every 
visitor, male or female, however feeble 
and lazy, has the means of scaling the 
wooded and vine-clad heights, and of 
exploring the really beautiful scenery 
with which the neighbourhood abounds. 
Every donkey is numbered ; and on 
fine afternoons the asses of reputation, 
stiength, and beauty, being in great 
request, are usually engaged before- 
hand, and quickly marched off the field. 
Many persons, therefore, retain a par- 
ticular number, which they know to be 
good, for the period of their stay at the 
baths. The hire of a donkey is 40 kr. 



an hour ; but it is better to engage the 
animal for the excursion according to 
the terms of a printed tariff hung up in 
the lower hall of the Alte Kurhaus, 
which fixes the charges for all the usual 
excursions around Ems, whether made 
on horses or asses, or in carriages. 

Ems is hot in summer, from being 
so shut in with hills ; but the woods 
around afford shade, and in a quarter 
of an hour the tops of the hills may 
be scaled, whence the rambler may en- 
joy the purest breezes and the most 
expanded views over the Bheinland. 
The rich woods which cover the sides 
of the vale of the Lahn, and the ver- 
dant pastures which form its banks, 
give Ems a more pleasing aspect than 
Schwalbach, which is surrounded by 
naked round -backed hills, with few 
trees upon them. Ems, it is true, 
cannot compete with Wiesbaden in 
gaiety, in the splendour of its assembly- 
rooms, and the extent of its public 
walks ; but the very splendid New 
Kursaal, built by the Grand Duke, at 
the side of the Lahn, contains a cafe ; 
gambling-rooms, provided with hazard- 
tables, open from 11 to 1, and 3 to 10 ; 
and a ball-room, supported on marble 
columns, in which weekly balls are 
given. It is open at all times, gratui- 
tously to strangers, and 75,000 fl. are lost 
here annually by play / The interior, 
though gorgeous, is in very bad taste. 

Immediately under the Old Kiu> 
haus rise 2 of the principal Springs, 
the waters of which are used for drink- 
ing, and likewise supply the baths. 
The ground'floor of the building is a 
large vaulted gloomy hall, which serves 
at the same time as pump-room and 
place of promenade for the guests in 
wet weather. The chief source is the 
Kesselbrunnen (116° Fahr.),and within 
a space railed off around it stand young 
girls (Brunnen Madchen) to distribute 
the water to the drinkers, giving to 
each one his or her own peculiar glass. 
During the season both sides are occu- 
pied by itinerant shopkeepers from all 
parts of the Continent, who here display 
their wares in a sort of bazaar. There 
are hardly any other shops in the place. 

In the lower story of this building 
are also situated the Batlis — prices : 

Y 2 



484 



ROUTE 95. — EMS. BATHS. EXCURSIONS. 



Sect. VIII. 



18 kr. for the common (Rondel), 36 kr., 
1 fl., to 1 fl. 30 kr. for the better class. 
Douche Baths (i. e. a stream of water 
descending from a height upon some 
part of the body), 48 kr. The attend- 
ants are entitled by the tariff to 6 kr. 
trinkgeld for each bath, but this sum is 
now added on to the price of the bath. 
The Douchemeister gets 12 kr. Tickets 
for a certain number of baths are pur- 
chased beforehand from the Badmeister, 
who fixes the hour for taking them, 
which should be punctually kept, or the 
bather may lose his turn. (H. T.) The 
attendants are not permitted to receive 
the money for the bath, nor to allow 
any one to bathe without a ticket. 
There are other baths in the Steinerne 
Haus and Vier Thiirme. 

The waters of Ems were known as 
.early as the time of the Romans, who 
called the place Embasis. They are 
warm, and are furnished by 2 springs, 
having respectively a temperature of 
23° and 37° Reaumur. They are 
agreeable to the palate and easy of 
digestion. The springs rise out of the 
grauwacke rock, which forms the sub- 
stratum of the surrounding hill. There 
are many other springs here besides 
those which supply the baths ; some on 
the 1. bank of the Lahn, and others 
rising up in the middle of the Lahn 
itself, which at these places is used as a 
horse^bath. Many jets of gas also 
emanate out of the bed of the stream ; 
and one of them is so copious in car- 
bonic vapours as to destroy life in 
animals held over it, in the same manner 
as the famous Grotto del Cane in Italy. 

The waters are taken in the morning 
before breakfast, and after dinner. 
From 3 to 6 goblets in the early part 
of the day, and 1 or 2 in the afternoon, 
are the usual allowance.. 

Nearly everybody, high or low, dines 
here at the table-d'hote ; the dinner 
hour is 1 o'clock; after which the com- 
pany adjourn and take coffee on the 
walks, listening to the music, or amus- 
ing themselves in walking or riding. 
There is music for 1 h. morning and 
evening, the time varies according to 
the season. 

Ems seems essentially a ladies' 
watering-place : it is much frequented 



by the fair sex, and its waters are con- 
sidered peculiarly efficacious In the 
complaints of females. It is on the 
whole a quiet place ; little or no raking 
goes on here ; but dear. The public 
gaming-tables are not much frequented. 

Another of the amusements which 
this place affords is the sport of roe- 
buck-shooting in the Duke's preserves; 
it is easy to purchase a permission from 
parties who rent a portion of them. 

The society at Ems is usually consi- 
dered more select than that at Schwal- 
bach, Wiesbaden, or even Baden-Baden. 
The season begins in May, and is gene- 
rally over by the middle of September. 
There were 4500 visitors here in 1845, 
while 17 years before there were but 
1560. 

Dr. Vogler is highly spoken of by 
those whom he has attended. Dr. 
Soest, a physician of considerable prac- 
tice at Coblenz, who speaks English, 
comes over to Ems 2 days in every 
week to see patients. (§ 41.) 

The English Ch. Service is performed 
on Sunday mornings at the Lutheran 
Ch. 

The walks over and among the hills 
near Ems, for instance, up the Ba- 
derlei, to the Forsthaus, to the Linden- 
bach Valley, by the silver- smelting 
furnace, to the ruined castle of Sporken- 
burg, to Balduinstein, and in general up 
and down the Lahn, are very agreeable, 
and afford many unrivalled prospects. 
For short walks, you may choose the 
Marien- Weg, on the further side of the 
Lahn, or the Ilenrietten- Weg, and 
Mooshut, overlooking Ems, whence there 
is a fine view. 

Kemmenau is a fine point of view at 
the top of the mountain behind Ems. 
The Roman rampart called Pfahlgraben 
(described at p. 493) passes along the 
crest of the hills aboveKemmenau, and, 
descending into the valley of the Lahn, 
crosses that river near Ems, and pro- 
ceeds towards Heinrichshof. 

Braubach, and the Castle of Marks- 
burg, on the Rhine, distant about 7 m., 
will form a pleasant day's excursion. 
(See p. 275.) The carriage-road runs 
past the Forsthaus ; a footpath at the 
back of Heinrichsbad leads through the 
wood to Becheln, The return to Ems 



Nassau. 



ROUTE 95. — NASSAU. SCHWALBACH. 



485 



may be varied by descending the Bhine 
to Lahnstein by a boat, or along the rt. 
bank, and ascending the valley by the 
side of the Lahn to Ems. 

A visit to the castles of Nassau and 
Stein, 6 m. higher up the Lahn valley, 
on the high road to Frankfurt, is 
another particularly agreeable excur- 
sion. These ruins serve as the rendez- 
vous of many a picnic party. The 
Convent of Arnstein, and the Chapel of 
Winden, both commanding beautiful 
views, and only 3 m. above Nassau, 
may be visited on the same day from 
Ems. (See Ete. 96.) 

After leaving Ems on the way to 
Nassau and Schwalbach, the road passes 
the old walled town of Dausenau, 
behind which runs a footpath leading 
up the ravine and over the hills to Ems, 
descending at the back of the Kurhaus, 
commanding fine views. The high road 
follows the windings of the Lahn 
through a beautiful valley as far as 

Nassau. — Inn : Krone. ' 5 m. from 
Ems. A chain bridge has been erected 
here over the Lahn, on the 1. bank of 
which rises the old and picturesque 
Castle of Nassau, the cradle (Stamm- 
schloss) of the families of Nassau and 
Orange. It was built by a Count of 
Laurenburg in 1101. In the 13th 
cent. the family divided into 2 
branches, from the elder of which 
springs the present Duke of Nassau, 
while the younger is represented by the 
King of Holland. The castle stands on 
the summit of a conical rock, and a 
little lower down is the less extensive 
ruin of the Castle of Stein, the baronial 
seat of another very ancient family, 
who have held for 500 years their 
estates and castle on the banks of the 
Lahn as a fief from the Emperor of Ger- 
many. The present owner, the Grafin 
von Giech, is still of the same race, and 
resides in the modern chateau situated 
in the valley hard by, which is also 
shown to strangers, and contains ancient 
armour, trophies of the war, and other 
curiosities. She is the daughter of the 
enlightened and patriotic Prussian 
minister, whom Napoleon contempt- 
uously designated "Un nomine Stein." 
He had the merit of introducing into 
the Prussian government those re- 



forms which have contributed largely 
to raise that country to its present 
eminence. The minister v. Stein, the 
last male of his family, is buried at 
the village of Frucht, 3 m. S/W. of 
Ems. 

Agreeable and easy paths have been 
cut through the woods leading to and 
around these 2 ruins. The views from 
them, and from the Gothic tower erected 
by the Baron von Stein on a command- 
ing point, are as pleasing as the ruins 
themselves are picturesque. Strangers 
are freely permitted to roam about and 
enjoy themselves in these grounds. In 
short, a day devoted to a visit to Nassau 
from Ems will assuredly not be con- 
sidered misspent. 

There is a very agreeable walk from 
Nassau to Ems up the valley of Diene- 
thal, and by Sulzbach, on the S. side 
of the Lahn. 

The beauties of the Lahn valley con- 
tinue upwards beyond Arnstein (3 m.) 
and Limburg (Ete. 96), along banks 
decorated with picturesque castles in 
ruins, and smiling industrious villages. 

Beyond Nassau our road ascends by 
a steep hill, and quits the valley of the 
Lahn. The view from the height, 
looking down upon it and its castles, is 
most beautiful ; but after that, adieu to 
picturesque scenes. The road passes, 
over a bleak tract of high land, very 
scantily peopled, the villages and habi- 
tations in general being snuggly nestled 
in the narrow and steep ravines which 
intersect in all directions this upper 
country. There is some fine wooded 
country near 

2 Singhofen. 

1^- Holzhausen. 

Schwalbach, from its peculiar situ- 
ation, sunk as it were between hills, is 
scarcely seen until it is entered. This 
little town, though not devoid of beauty 
in its position and environs, commonly 
does not strike the stranger with the 
full admiration he had anticipated from 
the perusal of the "Bubbles." Not 
that the author's descriptions are in- 
exact, or even exaggerated, but that it 
requires a turn of mind similar to his 
own to elicit that pleasure which he 
derived from the objects themselves, 
and which his readers enjoy from 



486 



ROUTE 95. — SCHWALBACH. SPRINGS. 



Sect. VIII. 



his attractive and quaint account of 
them. 

2 Langen-Scliwalbach. — Inns : Allee 
Saal (H. du Promenade), largest and 
best situated, named from a shady 
avenue of trees close beside it; daily 
table-d'hote at 1 ; in the evening the 
rooms serve for dancing on Sundays, as 
well as for music — in fact, become the 
Assembly-rooms. Nassauer Hof, good 
and moderate ; table-d'hote at 1. H. 
de 1' Europe. H. au Due de Nassau, 
clean and good ; table-d'hote at 1 and 
3 ; passing travellers are not readily 
received for less time than 14 days. Post. 

Lodging -houses : Pariser Hof, clean ; 
H. Eoyal, formerly Beiden Indien ; 
Englischer Hof, where the author of 
the "Bubbles" lodged. At the lodging- 
houses there are no tables-d'hote ; but 
visitors can be provided with breakfast 
and tea, and have their dinners sent in 
to them from one of the hotels. 

Schwalbach (in English, Swallows' - 
brook), though within a few years 
elevated to the dignity of a town 
(pop. 1800), has still the appearance 
of a long straggling village. All the 
most considerable buildings are inns or 
lodging-houses. It is said to have 
been known to the Romans, and has 
for nearly 3 cent, been one of the 
most frequented of German watering- 
places (§ 41) ; but until the appear- 
ance of the " Bubbles from the Brun- 
nen" our countrymen had passed 
through it year after year without 
taking any notice of it. The beneficial 
effects of its strengthening and re- 
freshing waters will secure to it in 
future an annual succession of visitors 
from our island. Already many thou- 
sand English have taken up their 
summer residence on the spot, each 
with the Bubble-blower for his guide ; 
and Spa, Aix-la-Chapelle, and other 
watering-places have been compara- 
tively deserted by them in conse- 
quence. 

In order to enter into the spirit of 
the Brunnen of Nassau, no visitor can 
dispense with the " Bubbles ;" he must 
take the book in his hand. Supposing 
every one to be furnished with it, or 
at least to have read it, travellers are 
referred to it for all general descrip- 



tions ; and the following short account 
pretends to nothing more than the 
filling up of one or two points of in- 
formation upon which the author of the 
" Bubbles " has not thought it worth 
while to dwell. 

Schwalbach has the advantage over 
Ems and Wiesbaden of being more free 
from bustle and formal restraint, which, 
with those in search of quiet and retire- 
ment, will gain for it the preference 
over these 2 watering-places. In the 
height of summer the heat is excessive, 
and is more severely felt from the want 
of shade, the hills around being bare of 
trees, and the plantations recently 
formed not having attained sufficient 
maturity to afford shelter from the sun. 
The season is usually over by the end 
of August ; it begins in June. The 
winter and spring are cold, and full 3 
weeks later than at Wiesbaden and in 
the Bheingau. 

The town is appropriately called 
Long Schwalbach, from the arrange- 
ment of its houses in one extended line. 
It contains a Boman Catholic and 2 
Protestant Churches, and a Synagogue 
for the Jews. Near the upper end of 
its long street are situated the principal 
Hotels, the Promenades, the Wells 
(Brunnen), and the Lath-house (Bad- 
haus). 

The three principal springs, which 
supply water for drinking as well as 
bathing, are — 1. The Weinbrunnen, so 
named from some fancied resemblance 
to wine in its taste ; and, 2. The Stahl- 
brunnen : both of these contain iron 
and carbonic acid gas in slightly va- 
rying proportions ; but the Weinbrun- 
nen is more largely impregnated with 
steel than the Stahl (steel) Brunnen. — 
3. The Pauline, a spring -which has 
been more recently discovered, and is 
named after the Duchess of Nassau, 
containing less iron than the other 
two. 

The Pauline spring has been traced 
to its fountain head at the iipper end 
of the valley, where its water bursts 
out in greater quantity, and more bub- 
bling with gas. 

The Ladhaus is a handsome build- 
ing, supported by an open colonnade, 
which serves as a walk in wet weather, 



Nassau. 



ROUTE 95. — SCHWALBACH. EXCURSIONS. 



487 



and as a shelter for a great many itine- 
rant traders, who set up their stalls 
here in the season. There are scarcely 
any other shops in Schwalhach. 

Persons who intend to make use of 
the haths should know that they are 
much in request, and during the height 
of the season are occupied from 6 in 
the morning till 1 p. m. Every hour of 
the day is bespoken beforehand, and 
allotted to some one or other, whose 
name is entered in a book opposite to 
the hour. Those who are not punctual 
to their time run the risk of losing 
their turn. The baths on the upper 
story are filled from the Pauline, those 
on the lower from the Stahl and Wein- 
brunnen, the waters being previously 
heated artificially. The price of a single 
bath is 48 kr., and the bath servant, 
who supplies towels, receives 4 kr. The 
water in which the patient prepares to 
immerse himself is, to use the " old 
man's" words, " as thick as a horse- 
pond, and about the colour of mulli- 
gatawny soup." Garments immersed 
in it contract stains as deep as red 
ochre, and they who immerse their 
heads will find that " their pillow in 
the morning looks as if a rusty 18 lb. 
shell had been reposing on it." The 
qualities of the water, however, are 
bracing and strengthening in a high 
degree. 

The diurnal proceedings of the vi- 
sitors at the baths are nearly as follows : 
they rise as early as 6, and resort to 
the wells to drink their allotted po- 
tions, keeping themselves in constant 
motion backwards and forwards be- 
tween every glass. * The water appears 
to produce a desire for walking, and 
the walking is with difficulty carried 
on without the invigorating aid of the 
water. After 2 or 3 hrs. of this ex- 
ercise they have fairly earned their 
breakfasts. The business of the bath 
will occupy an hour o^ the forenoon ; 
and before dinner another course of 
water is usually prescribed. 

The dinner-bell for the table-d'hote 
sounds at 1, and the irksome ceremony 
is rarely over in less than an hour and 
a half : when it is concluded, the Ger- 
mans usually allow themselves a short 
time to ruminate, to drink their coffee, 



and to smoke their pipes. At this 
time of day the donkeys, the slaves of 
the visitors at the baths, whose lives 
are spent in carrying, are to be seen in 
long array, ready to be engaged. The 
charges for horses, asses, and carriages 
are fixed by tariff, according to the 
length of the excursions. Donkeys, 
inferior to those at Ems, 36 kr. the 
hour. At 6 o'clock the ceremony of 
drinking the waters begins again. In 
the evening the Allee Saal is lighted 
up, and music on most days of the 
week — gaming at all times — serve to 
amuse the visitors. 

On Sundays the English Service is 
performed in the upper Protestant 
ch. in the Lange Gasse, soon after 
11 A. M. 

The steep round-backed hills which 
hem in the town of Schwalbach and 
its Brunnen are intersected in all di- 
rections with paths. From the summit 
of the heights a number of pleasing 
views are obtained. One of the most 
interesting is that from the little rustic 
wooden pavilion which stands on the 
top of the hill, by the side of the road 
leading from Schwalbach to Wies- 
baden. This agreeable " point de 
vue " is not much more than 20 min. 
walk from the Paiiline, and those 
who fear to face the hill on foot may 
make the ascent on the back of a don- 
key. 

About :§ an hour's walk from Schwal- 
bach is Adolphseck, a ruined castle, said 
to have been built by Count Adolph of 
Nassau, before he became Emperor, 
as a residence for a fair lady, his fa- 
vourite. 

The excursion, however, which sur- 
passes all others around Schwalbach, 
is that to the Castle of Hohenstein. 
The carriage-road leading to it is dusty 
and monotonous ; the better way is to 
follow the windings of the little stream 
called the Aar, on foot or upon donkeys, 
passing first under the castle of Adolph- 
seck, and then threading the valley up- 
wards for a distance of 6 m. Its great 
charm is the variety of scenes it un- 
folds, its changes at every turn, its 
openings and closings ; at times ex- 
panding into broad verdant meadows, 
then contracting to a narrow strait with 



488 



ROUTE 95. — SCHWALBACH. SCHLANGENBAD. Sect. VIII. 



overhanging masses of rock on both 
sides. At last the grand old castle of 
Hohenstein appears in sight, in a very 
romantic situation, perched on the sum- 
mit of a high black precipice, and 
forming a termination of the vista. 
This imposing feudal stronghold of the 
Counts . of Katzene]nbogen was taken 
and sacked in the Thirty Years' War, 
and is now totally dismantled, though 
some precautions have been taken to 
preserve it from further decay. A 
village composed of a few poor cottages 
crouches at the foot of the rock ; and 
a small Inn will furnish the traveller 
with a dish of trout or crawfish from 
the Wiedenbach brook, or a bottle of 
sour wine, if needed ; but it is well to 
take provisions with you. 

There are many other old castles 
among the valleys of the Taunus, each 
of which may be made the object of a 
day's excursion, particularly those of 
Katzenelnbogen (Cat's Elbow), built 
by the Counts of that name, who an- 
ciently possessed the country between 
the Ehine and the Lahn ; it is situated 
in a wild and solitary district, Burg 
Schwalbach, and Arteck. Pleasing 
excursions are, 1. to Frankfurt by 
JSTeuhof, Idstein, Esch, and Konig- 
stein (Ete. 97) ; 2. to Dietz and 
Limburg (Ete. 96), by Holzhausen ; 
3. down the "Wisperthal to Lorch on 
the Ehine (Ete. 38, p. 280) ; this last 
must be performed in a carriage of the 
country. 

Nieder-Selters, the spring which pro- 
duces the far-famed Seltzer water, may 
be visited from Schwalbach, but it is 
a long day's journey, by cross-roads, 
which even in the best season are very 
rugged. The spring itself is situated 
on the high post-road leading from 
Limburg to Frankfurt, and it is of 
course most easily accessible in that 
direction. The admirable description 
of the author of the " Bubbles" will 
probably afford more gratification than 
even a visit to the spot. The road 
which he took led him past the Eisen- 
hammer, an immense hammer, lifted 
by a water-wheel, which forges iron 
by its fall (one of the lions generally 
visited by the water-drinkers of Schwal- 
bach), tnrough the villages of Neuhof 



and "Wurges, both of which are post- 
stations, where fresh horses may be 
had, to the spring of Selters, situated 
about ^ m. from the village of Sel- 
ters, which is also a post-station, and 
provided with a small inn called the 
Nassauer Hof. About a million and a 
half of bottles are exported annually, 
and the quantity is increasing. 

Instead of returning to Schwalbach 
by the same road which brought him, 
the traveller may make an agreeable 
variation by following the course of the 
Lahn by land, or descending that stream 
in a boat to Nassau or Ems. (See Ete. 
96.) 

A capital macadamised road, but 
very hilly, leads from Schwalbach to 
Schlangenbad (about 4 m.), another 
Brunnen of Nassau (Znws, Hessischer 
Hof; Nassauer Hof), in a delightful 
though retired situation, almost buried 
amongst wooded hills. It is neither a 
town nor village, but consists of a 
group of lodging-houses. Two of these 
enormous buueungs, resembling cotton- 
mills in their size and number of win- 
dows, called the Old and New Badhaus, 
furnish accommodation for visitors. 
The price of each room, marked on the 
door, varies from 36 kr. to 3 or 4 fi. 
daily. Table-d'hote, at 1, costs 1 fl., 
and, for 1 fi. 45 kr., the same dinner is 
served in private. The Eauenthaler 
wine is good here. 

It is generally necessary to bespeak 
rooms by letter beforehand, from the 
Badmeister, an officer appointed by the 
Duke of Nassau, who has the charge of 
both houses. 

This place receives its name of 
Schlangenbad (Serpent's Bath) from 
the great number of snakes, quite 
harmless, which not only abound in the 
neighbourhood, but even haunt the 
springs themselves for the sake of the 
warmth yielded by the water. The 
old man who manages the baths will 
exhibit some of them. 

The Baths are situated in the ground 
floor of the Old and New Badhaus, and 
have a somewhat dark and gloomy air. 
The temperature of the water is only 
80° Fahrenheit, so that it needs to be 
heated for bathing. 

The sequestered little valley of 



Nassau. 



ROUTE 95. — SCHLANGENBAP. BATHS. 



489 



Schlangenbad affords more complete 
retirement than any of the baths of 
Nassau. It is annually visited by 
about 800 guests, including many 
princes and persons of the highest dis- 
tinction from all parts of Germany and 
Russia, including frequently some 
members of the royal family of Prus- 
sia. 

" No part of the building is exclu- 
sively occupied by these royal guests ; 
but, paying for their room no more than 
the prices marked upon the doors, they 
ascend the same staircase, and walk 
along the same passages, with the hum- 
blest inmates of the place. The silence 
and apparent solitude which reigned in 
this new badhaus were to us always a 
subject of astonishment and admiration. 
The cell of the hermit can hardly be 
more peaceful." — Bubbles. 

u The baths of Schlangenbad are the 
most harmless and delicious luxuries of 
the sort I have ever enjoyed ; and I 
really quite looked forward to the 
morning for the pleasure with which 
I paid my addresses to this delightful 
element. The effect it produces on the 
skin is very singular : it is about as 
warm as milk, but infinitely softer : 
and after dipping the hand into it, if 
the thumb be rubbed against the fin- 
gers, it is said by many to resemble 
satin. Nevertheless, whatever may be 
its sensation, when the reader reflects 
that people not only come to these 
baths from Russia, but that the water 
in stone bottles, merely as a cosmetic, 
is sent to St. Petersburg and other dis- 
tant parts of Europe, he will admit that 
it must be soft indeed to have gained 
for itself such an extraordinary degree 
of celebrity ; for there is no town at 
Schlangenbad, not even a village : 
nothing, therefore, but the real or fan- 
cied charm of the water could attract 
people into a little sequestered valley, 
which, in every sense of the word, is 
out of sight of the civilised world ; and 
yet I must say that I never remem- 
ber to have existed in a place which 
possessed such fascinating beauties ; be- 
sides which (to say nothing of breathing 
pure dry air), it is no small pleasure to 
live in a skin which puts all people in 
good humour — at least with themselves. 



But besides the cosmetic charms of this 
water it is declared to possess virtues 
of more substantial value : it is said to 
tranquillize the nerves, to soothe all in- 
flammation ; and from this latter pro- 
perty the cures of consumption which 
are reported to have been effected, 
among human beings and cattle, may 
have proceeded. Yet, whatever good 
effect the water may have upon this in- 
sidious disorder, its first operation most 
certainly must be to neutralise the bad 
effect of the climate, which to consump- 
tive patients must decidedly be a very 
severe trial ; for, delightful as it is to 
people in robust health, yet the keen- 
ness of the mountain air, together with 
the sudden alternations of temperature 
to which the valley of Schlangenbad is 
exposed, must, I think, be anything but 
a remedy for weak lungs. 

" The effect produced irpon the skin 
by lying about 20 minutes in the bath 
I one day happened to overhear a short 
fat Frenchman describe to his friend in 
the following words : — ' Monsieur, dans 
ces bains on devient absolument amoureux 
de soi-meme t" I cannot exactly cor- 
roborate this Gallic statement, yet I 
must admit that limbs, oven old ones,, 
gradually do appear as if they were 
converted into white marble. The skin 
assumes a sort of glittering, phosphoric 
brightness, resembling very much white 
objects which, having been thrown 
overboard in calm weather within the 
tropics, many of my readers have pro- 
bably watched sinking in the ocean,, 
which seems to blanch and illuminate 
them as they descend. The effeet is 
very extraordinary ; and I know not 
how to account it, unless it be pro- 
duced by some prismatic refraction, 
caused by the peculiar particles with 
which the fluid is impregnated. 

" The Schlangenbad water contains 
the muriates and carbonates of Kme,. 
soda, and magnesia, with a slight excess 
of carbonic acid, which holds the car- 
bonates in solution. The celebrated 
embellishment which it produces on 
the skin is, in my opinion, a sort of 
corrosion, which removes tan, or any 
other artificial covering that the sur- 
face may have attained from exposure 
and ill-treatment by the sun and wind. 

Y 3 



490 



ROUTE 95. — SCHLANGENBAD. EXCURSIONS. Sect. VIII. 



It short, the body is cleaned by it, just 
as a kitcben.rna.aid scours ber copper 
saucepan: and tbe effect being evident, 
ladies modestly approach it from tbe 
most distant parts of Europe, I am 
by no means certain, however, that 
they receive any permanent benefit; 
indeed, on tbe contrary, I should think 
that their skins would eventually be- 
come, if anything, coarser, from the 
removal of a slight veil or covering iru- 
tended by nature as a protection to the 
puticle.' ? — Bubbles. 

From the above description of these 
waters, it will be evident that Schlan- 
genbad is peculiarly a "ladies' bath;" 
and it may be conjectured, from its 
effects in calming the mind, invigora- 
ting the limbs, and smoothing wrinkles 
from the skin, that if " the fountain of 
youth," so zealoxisly sought for in for* 
pier days even at the very ends of the 
earth, exist anywhere, it is to be found 
in the lonely valley of Schlangenbad. 
The invalid who has imbibed in his 
skin the ferruginous particles of tbe 
Schwalbach water, usually repairs hither 
afterwards, in order to wash, away the 
rust by a course of bathing at the Ser- 
pent's Spring. There is nothing extra- 
ordinary in the mineral contents of these 
waters which would enable chemists to 
account for their virtue ; it probably 
proceeds from some peculiar admix-* 
ture derived from the chemistry of 
nature, which at present art is unable 
to explain, and equally incapable of 
imitating. 

Tradition relates that tbe spring was 
discovered some hundred years ago 
by a sick heifer, who every day sepa- 
rated herself from the herd to drink of 
it. The herdsman, surprised both at 
the periodical absence of the animal, 
and at the improvement in ber con- 
dition, traced her foosteps one day, 
until he discovered her drinking at the 
warm spring, which now affords the 
same relief to human invalids which 
it did in the first instance to the quadru- 
ped. 

Schlangenbad is provided neither 
with a gaming-table nor a ball-room ; 
those who seek such amusements must 
repair to. Schwalbach or "Wiesbaden. 
A band of music plays on tbe walks, 



to enliven tbe daily promenade of the 
water-drinkers ; but the chief attractions 
of the place are the more natural and 
secluded walks among the woods and 
hills of the neighbourhood. Donkeys 
are the favourite means of conveyance, 
for gentlemen as well as ladies, here 
as elsewhere, among the baths of the 
Taunus. 

English Church Service, during the 
season, at 5 p.m., in a chapel belonging 
to the Duke of Nassau. 

Schlangenbad is situated within a 
few miles of some of the most beautiful 
scenery of the Rhine, overlooked for 
the most part by the great herd of tra- 
vellers, who content themselves with 
steaming up and down the river. 
"Within the distance of a day's excur- 
sion are situated the following inter- 
esting spots : — 

1. Georgenbom, a village which com- 
mands a beautiful prospect over the 
Rhine and the Main ; and Frauenstein, a 
small hamlet, with an old castle, and a 
very ancient and large lime tree. 

2. The Monastery of Eberbach, in a 
highly picturesque situation, at the 
bottom of a wooded dell, described p. 
288. In the way to it the stranger 
will pass Rauenthel, a small village, 
with famous vineyards in its neigh- 
bourhood ; and the chapel of Buben- 
hausen, a magnificent point of view ; 
the ruined castle of Scbarfenstein (once 
a stronghold of the Archbishops of 
Mayence); and the beautiful Gothic 
chapel (1449) of Kiedrich (p. 289). 

Eberbacb was founded in 1131, by 
St. Bernard, tbe preaoher of the Cru- 
sades, "While he rambled about in 
doubt where to fix his holy establish- 
ment, a boar issuing out of a thicket 
indicated with his snout the spot upon 
which the church was afterwards 
reared. The monks of St. Bernard 
were famed for their riches and hospi- 
tality; — tbe order possessed in the 
Rheingau, and within a space of S 
leagues, no less than 6 convents — 
Zufenthal, Eberbach, Gottestbal, Ei- 
bingen, Nothgottes, and Marienhau- 
sen ; they were besides tbe owners of 
the Steinberg vineyard, and used to 
export its produce in vessels of their 
own down the Rhine to Cologne. 



Nassau. 



ROUTE 95. WIESBADEN. 



491 



The vineyards„the wines, and the con- 
vent, with its estate and cellars, now 
belong to the Duke of Nassau. The 
destination of the building has been 
changed to a prison and lunatic asy- 
lum ; but he retains the cellars in their 
ancient use ; they are stored with the 
most precious wines : some sorts sell 
on the spot for 7, 9, or 11 florins the 
bottle, and even higher. The archi- 
tecture of the church is much admired. 
The Swedish minister and general, 
Oxenstierna, took up his winter quar- 
ters in the convent, 1631. The view 
from the height called the Boss, near 
the convent, is one of the finest in the 
Rheingau. (See p. 289.) Immediately 
below it is the famed Steinberg vine- 
yard. 

3. To the castle and vineyard of 
Johannisberg, and the Niederwald, 
described in p. 287. The carriage- 
road lies along the highway to May- 
ence, as far as the village of Neudorf, 
where it turns to the rt., and follows 
for a couple of miles a lane leading 
to Eltville on the grand route, along the 
rt. bank of the Rhine, to Riidesheim. 
There is a bridle-road direct from 
Schlangenbad to Eberbach and the 
Niederwald, through the woods; but 
a guide would be necessary to find it 
out. 

There is a cross country foot or horse 
path, from Schlangenbad to Wiesbaden, 
by the Chaussee house, or by Frauen- 
stein and Dotzheim. 

Road from Schwalbach to Frankfurt. 

The post-road, on quitting Schwal- 
bach, at once begins to ascend. The 
way to Schlangenbad and Mayence 
turns down a valley to the rt. before 
you surmount the hill called Hoke 
Wurzel, from whose top there is a very 
remarkable prospect, stretching over the 
Rhine and Main, with Mayence in the 
middle distance, and the Bergstrasse in 
the background. On the 1. is seen the 
village of Klarenthal, with its ci-devant 
convent, and further in the distance the 
Platte, a hunting-seat of the Duke's : 
both favourite points of excursions for 
the inhabitants of Wiesbaden. 

2 Wiesbaden has been justly called 
" a city of lodging-houses," almost 



every building being appropriated either 
to the reception or entertainment of 
visitors. Inns : Rose, kept by Schmidt, 
good — charges very reasonable and 
landlord most attentive ; Vier Jahres- 
zeiten(Four Seasons), a large andhand- 
some building ; Post (or Eagle, Acller), 
rather bustling — charges are fixed by a 
printed tariff; Nassauer Hof, a first- 
rate, well-furnished, quiet hotel, in the 
great square and close to the theatre — 
charges reasonable (these 4 have baths 
in the house) ; Taunus Hotel ; Schiitzen- 
hof (Shooter's Hotel) ; H. Diiringer, 
and London Hotel, bothnearthe railway. 
There are besides more than 20 
houses licensed to afford lodgings only,, 
where meals are not provided ; but 
there are restaurateurs in the town who 
will send in dinners. The author of 
the " Bubbles" found the landlord of 
the Englische Hof " exceedingly civil 
and anxious to humour his old-fashioned 
whims and oddities." There are baths 
in the house. The weekly ,oh.Bxges are — 
for a good bed-room 20 fr. ; for break- 
fast 7 fr. ; a bath costs 1 fr. 

The best tables-d'hote are at the 
Kursaal, where a dinner costs 1 fl. at 
1 o'clock, 1 fl. 45 kr. at 4 o'clock. For 
this-moderate sum a most excellent din- 
ner, comprising all the delicacies of the 
season, even ice, is provided. 1 5 dif- 
ferent dishes are sometimes given for 
15c?. ! i. e. one penny a dish on an 
average. Such a dinner could not be 
had in England for less than 15s. 

Wiesbaden is the capital of the Duchy 
of Nassau, and has 14,000 inhab. It 
is the residence of the Duke and the 
seat of his government. To these cir- 
cumstances, however, it is in nowise 
indebted for its present prosperity, but 
to the celebrity of its baths and mineral 
waters. (§ 41.) The number of visit- 
ors attracted to this spot in search of 
health and pleasure has of late amounted 
to 15,000 annually. Though the most 
frequented of all the German baths, the 
society is not of so high an order as 
that found at Ems or Baden. From its 
vicinty to Frankfurt and Mayence it is 
subject to the constant influx of citizens 
from these 2 places, and it may in 
this respect be termed the Margate of 
Germany. This is mentioned merely 



492 



ROUTE 95. — WIESBADEN. KURSAAL. SPRINGS. Sect. VIII. 



by way of distinguishing this from 
other watering-places, and not by way 
of disparagement, for in the season there 
is no lack of high German aristocracy, 
and princes and nobles from all parts 
of the Continent. The other German 
visitors, of whatever class, are well- 
conducted, quiet, and respectable. "Wies- 
baden has a " season" of longer dura- 
tion than most of the other baths, and 
is almost always full from June to Sep- 
tember, and even later, if the autumn 
prove fine. 

The most remarkable edifice is the 



Kursaal, occupying 
square, the N. and 



the E. side of a 
S. sides of which 
are lined by colonnades filled with gay 
shops, serving as a promenade in wet 
weather and as a sort of bazaar during 
the whole of the season. Opposite the 
Kursaal, in one corner of the square, 
is the theatre, in the other the huge 
hotel of the Yier Jahreszeiten. 

The Kursaal serves the fourfold pur- 
pose of banquet, ball, reading, and 
gaming room, and forms the centre of 
attraction and gaiety. It consists of a 
very splendid saloon of large dimensions, 
surroundedby pillars of Limburg marble. 
A table-d'hote dinner is served here 
(see p. 491), sometimes to as many as 
300 persons, of all ranks, from sovereign 
princes down to ordinary bourgeois. 
On Sunday the Kursaal is so numerously 
attended that it is necessary to bespeak 
a place the day before ; and it often 
happens that the great room is not large 
enough to contain all the guests. In 
the evening it is appropriated to danc- 
ing. Twice a week (Wednesday and 
Saturday), a public ball is given, to 
which the admission is 1 fl. for gentle- 
men — ladies are admitted gratis. It 
begins at 10 o'clock. 

On the rt. hand of the salle are the 
gambling-rooms, where gaming is car- 
ried on almost from morning to night, 
and on the 1. are supper-rooms, which 
are usually fully occupied in the even- 
ing. Supper is served a la carte. 

When dinner is over every one be- 
takes himself to the garden behind the 
Kursaal, to sip coffee or ices. Tables 
are placed out in the open 
hearing of a band of 
always plays on these occasions; and 



air, within 
music, which 



while the gentlemen indulge in what 
Mrs. Trollope is pleased to call " the 
nasty habit of smoking," the ladies, in 
the homely and industrious fashion of 
Germany, generally occupy themselves 
by knitting while they chat. At such 
times the space behind the Kursaal is 
so completely filled with company, and 
the tables are so crowded together, that 
there is barely room to pass ; high and 
low are promiscuously mingled together, 
and the whole forms the most pleasing 
and characteristic scene of " Wiesbaden 
Life." 

The hours of drinking the waters are 
from 5 or 6 to 8 in the morning, and 
again partially in the evening about 6 
or 7. A short interval is allowed to 
elapse between the morning draught 
and the bath. 

A long avenue of stumpy acacias 
serves as a promenade for the water- 
drinkers, and leads up to the principal 
spring, the KocJibrunnen (boiling spring). 
It has all the appearance of a caldron in 
violent ebullition, and its temperature 
is 56° of Eeaumur, equal to 156° of 
Fahrenheit. Its waters are used both 
for drinking and to supply the principal 
baths in the town ; but so copious is the 
source that after all this consumption a 
vast quantity runs over and escapes 
through the gutters and drains. A 
stranger is astonished at first, as he 
walks along the streets, to perceive 
clouds of vapour arising on all sides 
out of the ground. This may be sup- 
posed to add somewhat to the warmth 
of the place in summer : if other places 
are hot, Wiesbaden may be said to be 
boiling hot. There are 13 other springs 
in the town, all of a high temperature. 
The spring next in heat and volume is 
that rising in the garden of the Adler 
hotel (48° Beauniur). It is probable 
that they are all derived from one cen- 
tral source, breaking out in different 
spots, as their mineral ingredients are 
nearly the same, and the slight differ- 
ence of temperature may arise solely 
from their being more or less distant 
from the fountain-head. 

The water-drinkers repair to the well 
at 5 or 6 o'clock a.m., and, receiving 
their portion scalding hot, walk about, 
glass in hand, until it is cool enough to 



Nassau. 



ROUTE 95. — WIESBADEN. PFAHLGRABEN. 



493 



bo drunk. In taste it has been com- 
pared to chicken broth. By 8 o'clock 
the promenade is usually cleared, and 
the business of bathing begins. The 
water in the bath is covered with a 
greasy film or scum, which collects on 
the surface while cooling : and which, 
however uninviting it may appear, is 
the test of its being quite fresh, and not 
having been used before. After the 
ceremony of the bath, the doctors allow 
their patients to take their breakfast, 
which they have thus in a manner earned. 

Physician Sir Alex. Downie, M.D., 
attends from Frankfurt on certain days 
here and at Homburg to see patients. 

The hot springs and their medicinal 
properties were well known to the 
Bomans, who called them Forties Mat- 
tiaci. Pliny the naturalist says of 
them, that they retain their heat for the 
space of 3 days : — " Sunt et Mattiaci 
in Germania fontes calidi quorum haus- 
tus triduo fervet."— Nat Hist. lib. 31. e. 2. 

Formerly the waste Abaters from the 
springs were allowed to collect in a 
pond outside the town, which, in con- 
sequence of its retaining for a length of 
time a warm temperature, became the 
resort of wild-fowl in winter. Even 
now that they are carried off at once to 
the Rhine, they not only never freeze, 
but, by their warmth, even preserve 
that part of the river where they enter 
free from ice. They serve as a nursery 
or stew for carp, which, fostered by the 
heat, grow to an enormous size in them. 
They deposit a copious calcareous sedi- 
ment or stalactite, which would in a 
short time choke up the pipes and 
channels in which they are carried 
through the town, were they not regu- 
larly cleared out. Bubbles of gas rise 
through the water at the springs, a 
phenomenon quite independent of those 
eaused by the boiling temperature, and 
"indicating, probably, some connection 
of the springs with volcanic agency in 
the interior of the earth. 

The Romans established a station 
here — they built a fort or castle on the 
hill to the N.W. of the town, still 
known as the Bomerberg, which was 
for a long time garrisoned by the 22nd 
Legion, as is proved by inscriptions on 
stones and stamps upon the tiles found 



near the spot. There is an obscure 
tradition that Nero had a mansion here ; 
and another hill near the Bomerberg 
goes by the name of Nerosberg. The 
inhabitants of the country, the Mattiaci, 
a division of the warlike German tribe, 
the Catti, became aUies of the Romans. 
In the 3rd cent, the barbarian Germans 
attacked and destroyed the Boman for- 
tresses on the rt. bank of the Bhine, 
and Wiesbaden shared the fate of the 
rest. Ashes and calcined bones still 
dug up on the Bomerberg attest its 
ruin ; and the period at which it took 
place is marked by the coins found 
there, none being later than the time of 
Gallienus. In addition to urns, tiles, 
coins, lamps, bones, and such trifling- 
remains, with which the ground in and 
about the town teems, whenever the 
foundation of a house is dug ; ancient 
baths have been discovered in several 
places ; and votive tablets, bearing the 
thanks of some noble Boman to the gods 
for cures effected by the waters, are 
preserved at the Museum. In after 
times Charlemagne used constantly to 
repair hither from his favourite resi- 
dence at Ingelheim, to enjoy the baths. 
He built himself a palace (Sala) in the 
street which still retains the name of 
Saal Gasse, though the building has dis- 
appeared. 

In the town at the bottom of the 
Heidenberg Strasse, and behind the Ad- 
ler hotel, is a small piece of stone wall, 
called the Heidenmauer (Heathen's 
Wall). The top of the Heidenberg 
Strasse is 60 or 80 ft. higher than the 
best part of Wiesbaden. It is now a 
street of low habitations. The old for- 
tified Boman town was clearly some- 
where here. The antiquaries fix on the 
Bomerberg Strasse, the next street paral- 
lel to the Heidenberg Str. 

A few miles to the 1ST. of Wiesbaden 
are the remains of a fortified wall, pass- 
ing through a great extent of country. It 
is called the Pfahlgraben. Before the Bo- 
mans quitted the country N. of the 
Bhine, they raised this stupendous barrier 
along their frontier. It was begun, ac- 
cording to Tacitus, by Drusus, stepson 
of Augustus, to defend his conquest 
from the inroads of the Germans, and 
was finished by Hadrian and Caracalla. 



494 



ROUTE 95. — WIESBADEN. MUSEUM. 



Sect. VIII. 



It resembles the Picts' wall in England, 
but surpasses it in extent. It consists 
of a rampart from 12 to 18 ft. high, 
strengthened by towers at regular dis- 
tances, and with a fosse originally lined 
with palisades, whence its name. It 
commences at Neuwied on the Rhine ; 
it runs thence by Montabauer to Ems, 
across the Lahn by Miehlen, Schwal- 
bach, Wehen, Idstein, and Heftrich to 
the foot of the Eeldberg, and from 
thence may be traced in a N.E. direc- 
tion, by Wehrheim, towards Butzbach. 
Several of the summits of the Taunus 
are crowned by forts or circular ram- 
parts. This wall, raised to protect the 
Mattiaci against the inroads of the Catti, 
has been supposed, but erroneously, to 
form part of the great stone wall con- 
structed by the Empr. Probus from the 
Danube to the Rhine, to protect the 
provinces of the empire against the 
Alemanni. (See Gibbon, ch. xii.) 

The SchWsschen (little palace), in the 
Wilhelm's Strasse, contains a very good 
Public Library of 60,000 volumes, includ- 
ing among the MSS. the Vision of St. 
Hndegard, on parchment, with remark- 
able miniatures of the 12th cent., and a 
Museum or Cabinet of Antiquities, chiefly 
local, or derived from the Duchy of 
Nassau. The most curious relic, per- 
haps, is a bas-relief found at Heddem- 
heim, near Frankfurt, representing the 
youthful god Mythras, in a Phrygian 
bonnet, in the act of sacrificing a pros- 
trate bull, surrounded by symbolical 
figures, and surmounted by the 1 2 signs 
of the Zodiac. The worship of Mythras 
was introduced by the Romans from 
Persia, and set up by the Pagan priest- 
hood in opposition to Christianity, 
then in its infancy. A Roman town, 
and a temple of Mythras, existed 
at Haddemheim, from the ruins of 
which this and other curious bas- 
reliefs, statues, altars, &c. have been 
found. Here is also the bronze top of 
the standard of a cohort of the 22nd 
Legion ; a curiously carved altar-piece 
(25 ft. long and 9 ft. high), from the 
sequestrated abbey of Marienstadt, near 
Hachenburg, dating from the 13th cent. ; 
the monuments of Diether and Ebcr- 
hard von Katzenelnbogen brought 
from the convent of St. Clara, and some 



painted glass. There is also a collection 
of Pictures, but few of them answer to 
the names attached to them. 

A handsome R. Catholic church has 
been built — the towers and pinnacles 
are not complete, Oct. 1849 — in the 
Louisen Platz. 

The performance at the TJieatre com- 
mences here at 6 o'clock ; but unless 
some very remarkable performers are 
engaged few persons will be disposed to 
forego the pleasures of a good ride or 
walk, and a charming landscape, for 3 
hrs. of stifling heat and of mediocre act- 
ing or music. 

Strangers residing for a few weeks 
can be introduced by members of the 
Casino to read the newspapers in their 
reading-room. 

English Church Service is performed 
every Sunday, during summer, in the 
Lutheran Church in the Kirch Gasse, 
by an English clergyman, at 11 a.m. and 
6 p.m. ; during winter, in the Hotel de 
la Rose, at 1 1 a.m. and 3± p.m. 

Eilwagen daily to Ems and Coblenz ; 
3 times a day to Riidesheim ; daily to 
Limburg. 

"Wiesbaden differs from the other 
watering-places of Nassau, in being a 
regularly built town. It is also some- 
what noisy and bustling during the 
season, but has the same advantages 
with the rest in beauty of situation, and 
a picturesque neighbourhood, affording 
agreeable walks and rides, and the most 
complete retirement within a few hun- 
dred yards of its precincts. By ascend- 
ing any of the adjacent heights, ele- 
vated only a few hundred ft. above the 
town, a charming prospect is disclosed to 
view, of the Rhine and fertile Rheingau, 
in which the spires and boat -bridge of 
Mayence form a prominent object; and 
the horizon is backed on the E. by the 
Odenwald and by the Melibocus sur- 
mounted by its white tower ; on the 
S. by the ridge of the Donnersberg or 
MontTonnere, in Rhenish Bavaria. From 
the Geisbcrg, about a mile from the town, 
this view is seen to great advantage. 

One of the pleasantest walks, and 
nearest at hand, is through the shrub- 
beries, which begin behind the Km-saa., 
to the Dietenmiihle and ruined castle of 
Sonnenbcrg, a distance of 2 m. 



IB 



1 Cathedral F e 

2 S*.Leonhard . D f 

3 SlPeter's. ....... F a 

4 Idebfrauenkirche E c 

5 SfMcholas . E e 

6 SfPaul E d 

7 S? Catherine Be 

3 Homer (TownliaTl >....E e 

9 SaaJhof Ee 

\0 Pal. of Teutonic order F g 

11 Palace of Prince- of '.... 
Thurn & Taxis. „.D o 

12 Stddel Museum B d 

13 Serikenberg Mus. D o 

14 Public Library. H e 

15 M.Bethmann G a 

16 Exchange. E d 

11 Post office, _.E c 

18 Tlieatre _.C c 

19 Casino D d 

20C.Jiigels snap D d 

21 House in which 

Goetlte was born D d 

22 Goethe's Statue... C d 

23 Man* of Hessians G a. 

24 Police Guard ... F <• 

25 Svnugogue F c 

26 Rothschilds ..F c 



B 



Hot el s 

27H.de Riissie. 

28 Romischer Kaiser. . 

29 H. d 'Angleterre . 

30 Weisse Schwan. 

31 JVeideribusch . 




Nassau. 



ROUTE 95. FRANKFURT ON THE MAIN. 



495 



A more extensive and beautiful view, 
however, is obtained from the Platte, a 
hunting-seat of the Duke of Nassau, 
about 4 m. off ; an excellent carriage- 
road leads up to it. It is a plain white 
building conspicuous from all sides, 
situated on the verge of a hill 1300 ft. 
above the Rhine, overlooking the plain, 
and backed by thick woods ; within, it 
is tastefully and appropriately fitted up ; 
part of the furniture is ingeniously 
formed out of buck-horn. It is shown 
to strangers at all times. The view is 
best seen from the platform on the roof. 
The neighbouring woods abound in 
herds of deer : many of them assemble 
round the Platte in the evening to be 
fed. The pedestrian may find a short 
cut over the Geisberg, and past the 
weeping oak, to the Platte. The road 
is quite direct, and the pedestrian has 
only to avoid turning off either to the 
rt. or 1. into the cross-roads which occur 
at intervals. 

A little to the left of the road to 
the Platte lies the convent (now se- 
cularised) of Klarenthal, and the Fa- 
scmerie (Pheasantry), a shooting-box 
of the Duke's, which also deserves a 
visit. 

At Biberich, the palace of the Grand 
Duke of Nassau, close to the railroad 
to Mayence, lies pleasantly by the 
side of the Ehine (see p. 289). The 
numerous interesting spots situated 
in the Bheingau between Biberich, 
Eiidesheim, and above all the Nie- 
derwald, all within the distance of a 
morning's ride from Wiesbaden, are 
described in Ete. 38 (p. 286 to 290). 
An agreeable excursion of a day or two 
may be made through the part of the 
range of the Taunus lying between 
Wiesbaden and Homburg. (Ete. 97.) 
It is little known or visited by Eng- 
lish travellers, partly because it is not 
accessible for heavy carriages by any 
direct road from Wiesbaden. 



Wiesbaden is connected with the 
Ehine at Biberich and Mayence by a 
railroad. Trains in 16 min., to May- 
ence, and thence to Frankfurt in 1^ hr. 
Fiacres from the railway into the town, 
for 1 or 2 persons, 24 kr. ; for 3, 30 
kr. ; for 4, 36 kr. For the railway 



hence to Mayence and Frankfurt, see 
Ete. 99. 

Frankfurt on the Main (in Ger- 
man, Frankfurt-am-Main). — Inns: H. 
de Eussie, handsomely furnished, and 
excellent as a family hotel : table- 
d'hote at 1, 1 fl. ; at 4, 1 fl. 45 kr. 
(wine extra) ; — Eomischer Kaiser ; 
— H. d'Angleterre, has greatly im- 
proved ; — Der Weisse Schwan (White 
Swan) ; and opposite to it Der Weiden- 
busch (Willow), large and good; — 
Mainlust, on the river, near the railway 
stations ; — Pariser Hof. 

Frankfurt is a Free Town, and the 
seat of the German Diet ; it lies on the 
rt. bank of the Main, and is connected 
by a stone bridge with the smaller 
quarter or suburb of Sachsenhausen on 
the 1. bank. It has 68,000 inhab., of 
whom 6000 are Jews. It is one of the 
most lively as well as handsome cities 
in Germany. Many of the houses in 
the New Town, especially in the prin- 
cipal street, called Zeil, in the New 
Street of Mayence (Neue Mainzer 
Strasse), and on the quays facing the 
Main, inhabited by rich merchants, 
bankers, or diplomatists, are literally 
palaces. 

The Old Town, on the other hand, 
with its narrow streets and quaint 
wooden buildings, with gables over- 
hanging their basement stories, forms 
a complete contrast to the new. Many 
of the houses are of great antiquity, 
especially in the quarter around the 
Cathedral and Eomerberg; they pre- 
serve all the character of " the ancient 
Imperial Free City." The curiosities 
of Frankfurt are — 

The Cathedral (Dom) ; it is chiefly 
remarkable for its antiquity (the nave, 
the oldest part, dates from the 13th 
cent., and the choir from 1338), and 
on account of the coronation of the Em- 
perors of Germany having taken place 
within it. The church is not much dis- 
tinguished for beauty or symmetry of 
architecture. The finest portion is its 
tower, begun 1415, and carried on for 
nearly 100 years to its present condition, 
and still unfinished. It has also a fine S. 
doorway, which is blocked up by sheds. 
The interior is very plain, whitewashed, 
and with a vile modern gallery running 



ERAsngBNEXErtL 



. iatheSral F « 

2 StLtmJidrd I> /' 
.-) Sfteteri F o 

1 Liebiratieiik-irrhe E r 

3 S!Xi,h„hi.< E e 

i; ,i-/ /;/«/ E -' 

7 .V' / ntlifriri? . D r 

A BSnuffTomihaU ) E <• 

;» SaaViof E' 

!<>/)// ,,,'feiilonif Older. F <1 

U tdlaa of Trimeaf 

Tlmrn d\ Ttuai. l> >> 

12 St&del Museum B rf 

Li Srnlfniberq Mux D h 

H /W>/i> Library H <• 

15 .1/ BsO un a mi lr •< 

16 Exchange Erf 

17 ftm (jfWra E <■ 

18 tfieatn C_* 
Hi Carirw l> >' 
tOCJiigeU ehop Od 

21 &OWIS in iv/iir/i 

i.in'tlir mi.sbnrn Dd/ 

ttBoetheb Statu* C <' 

tAHonZorhessums <» " 

21 ;'..//>.' Guard ... F c 

2hSvnaaogu& F c 

26 RothedtOde - F '• 



Hotels 

27 //. .?>• Riiniue E <■ 

28 Jtomitrher Kaiser .E r 

20 j7 rf 'Angkitm 
aOWr/sm- Sfhtrm 
31 Weidenb, 

I- 




UULl 



Engraved I^IiCWBp 



Published bv John Murray Albemarle StreetLondonl8bO^ 



496 



ROUTE 95. — FRANKFURT. ROMER. 



Sect. VIII. 



round one side of the transepts and the 
aisles. It contains one or two curious 
monuments, especially that of the Em- 
peror Gunther of Schwarzburg (on 
the rt. of the choir), who was killed 
(1349) hy his rival Charles IV., and 
that of Rudolph of Sachsenhausen 
abundantly ornamented ; a curious 
group of old painted sculpture of the 
12th cent, representing the Death of 
the Virgin (in the chapel on the 1. side 
of the choir) ; and a remarkable clock, 
1460, close to the JST. door. St. Bernard 
preached the Crusade to an enthusiastic 
audience, and performed miracles, in 
this church. In the Election Chapel 
(Wahlkapelle) the Emperor was chosen : 
and 46 Emperors, after having here 
gained their election, were afterwards 
crowned in front of the high altar. 
Here are shown the chair in which the 
Emperor sat in church, and two of the 
stools for the Electors. 

The Town - house, called Rb'mer, a 
building of the 15th cent., has also 
far less of architectural beauty to re- 
commend it than of historical interest, 
as the scene of the ceremonies attend- 
ing the Election of the Emperors, and 
the place where the festivities succeed- 
ing their coronation were celebrated. 
The walls of the banqueting-room or 
Kaisersaal, an irregular apartment, 
in the shape of a rhomboid, where the 
Emperors were entertained, and waited 
on at table by kings and princes, are 
covered with their portraits (52) in the 
order of succession, from Conrad I. to 
Francis II., recently painted by Lessing, 
Bendeman, Rcthel y and other eminent 
living artists, in the place of some 
vile daubs of the sign -post school. 
Under nearly every one is the motto 
which the Emperor adopted at his 
coronation, like sergeants-at-law when 
called to the degree of the coif. At 
the end of the Hall is the Judgment of 
Solomon by Steinle. These paintings 
are the gifts of different royal, noble, 
and private persons, citizens of Frank- 
furt, &c, and many have great merit. 
The Hall has been restored in adherence 
to the ancient style, the decoration of 
the ceiling being copied from the ori- 
ginal design. In the election chamber 
(Wahlzimmer) , the Senate of Frankfurt 



now holds its sittings. Here is pre- 
served the famous Golden Bull, or deed 
by which the Empr. Charles IV. (1356) 
settled the mode of Election of the 
German Emperors, and the number of 
the Electors. It is shown for the extra- 
vagant fee of a ducat, which many will 
consider the sight of a dusty parchment 
hardly to deserve. The Kaisersaal, 
which is on the 1st floor, is open to 
the public every Monday and Wed- 
nesday from 11 to 1 : at other times 
admission may be gained by ringing 
the bell of that door of the antecham- 
ber of the "Wahlzimmer, which is op- 
posite to the door by which it is en- 
tered. In the Market-place, called the 
Bornerberg, in front of the building, 
upon the occasion of the Imperial 
coronation, an ox was roasted whole, 
from which the Arch-Steward (Erb- 
Truchsess) cut a slice for the Emperor : 
a fountain flowed with wine from which 
the Arch-Cupbearer (Erb-Mundschenk) 
filled his glass, and the Arch-Marshal 
distributed com from a silver measure ; 
and the populace enjoyed the privilege 
of appropriating the scarlet cloth upon 
which the Emperor walked from the 
cathedral. So greedily was it cut away 
behind him as he passed onwards, that 
he ran the risk of having his heels cut 
also. The ceremonies observed at an 
Imperial coronation may be seen in 
some old prints on the staircase of the 
public library, and in the election chapel 
at the cathedral. Drawings of the re- 
galia too are hung up on the library 
staircase. 

St. Leonhard's Ch. (1323), near the 
river, occupies the spot where the pa- 
lace of Charlemagne stood : no traces 
of it now exist. He assembled the 
Bishops and Princes of the Empire 
here at Frankonofurd (the Frank's 
ford). 

The Saalhof, a gloomy modern build- 
ing (1717), near the Main, retains the 
name alone of the palace of his son 
and successors. The Gothic chapel, 
however, appears to be as old as the 
10th cent. 

Sachsenhausen, the Southwark of 
Frankfurt, on the 1. bank of the river, 
is, as its name implies, a Saxon colony 
— a different race from the Franks on 



Nassau. 



ROUTE 95. — FRANKFURT. MUSEUM. 



497 



the rt. bank of the Main, and is under 
a distinct jurisdiction. Immediately 
above the old Bridge over the Main, 
which is crowned by a modern statue 
of Charlemagne, on the side of Sach- 
senhausen, stands the ancient Palace of 
the Knights of the Teutonic Order. 

Close to the bridge are remains of the 
old palace of the Counts of Isenberg ; 
one side is of good Elizabethan gothic. 

There are two institutions for the 
encouragement of arts and sciences, 
which reflect the highest credit upon 
the town of Frankfurt. 

1. The Stddel Museum of Pictures, 
a handsome building, in the Neue Main- 
zer Strasse, is named after its founder, 
a citizen of Frankfurt, who bequeathed 
his collections of paintings, drawings, 
and engravings to the city, along with 
a large sum, amounting to about 
83,000/., for building and maintaining 
a Public Gallery and School of Art. 
The sum annually available for the 
purchase of pictures is about 800 
guineas. The secretary is M. Passa- 
vant, the biographer of Kaphael. 

The collection is open to the public 
gratis, from 10 to 1, daily, except 
Saturday, when it is open to strangers 
passing through, from 11 to 1. 

The pictures which it contains con- 
sist of some curious specimens of the 
early masters of Germany and the Low 
Countries, of a not very numerous or 
remarkable collection of Dutch and 
Italian masters, and of some of the best 
works of the modern German School. 
The following are perhaps the most 
worthy of notice : — 

1st Boom. Italian School. 1, Peru- 
gino — Virgin and Child. 18, Called 
a Raphael, but certainly not one, as the 
author of the catalogue allows — Virgin 
and Child. 19, Gio. Bellini — Holy 
Family. 399, Moretto — Virgin and 
Child, with the four Fathers of the 
Latin Church (from Cardinal Fesch's 
collection : cost 30,000 fl.), a very re- 
markable work, perhaps the finest by 
the master on this side the Alps. 400, 
Paris Bordone — Sketch for his great 
picture at Venice, representing the 
Fisherman presenting St. Mark's Ping 
to the Doge. (Handbook for N. Italy, 
p. 359.) 



2nd Boom (Grosser Saal). Here are 
the following works of modern German 

artists: — 96, Hubnei Job with his 

Friends. 99, Zessing — Huss before the 
Council of Constance. Very carefully 
composed and elaborately finished ; los- 
ing, indeed, much of its power by its 
minute finish. 100, Achenbach — Storm 
on the coast of Norway. 103, Bethel 
— Daniel in the Lions' Den. 104, 
Schnorr — The Good Samaritan. 106, 
Zessing — Ezzelin in Prison, after the 
Battle of Cassano. 

2>rd Boom. Overbeck — The Triumph 
of Christianity in the Arts. Considered 
a chef d'oeuvre of the artist : all the 
heads are portraits of persons renowned 
as authors, divines, or artists. In this 
production of elaborate pedantry the 
traveller will easily discover how much 
the artist has borrowed from Raphael's 
School of Athens and Dispute of the 
Sacrament. 111. A remarkable altar- 
piece, consisting of a centre and two 
wings, representing the events of the 
Crucifixion, by a Cologne artist of the 
beginning of the 1 5th cent. ; formerly 
attributed to Schoreel. In this room 
are some curious works of the early 
German School, and a portrait by Q. 
Metsys, 138, erroneously called Knip- 
perdolling. 

4th Boom. Butch and Flemish Schools. 
A poor collection. 186, Hobbema — 
Landscape. 194, Buysdael — Storm clear- 
ing off. Wood and Waterfall. 201, 
Wynants — Landscape. 221, Bubens — 
Portrait of his infant Daughter, who 
afterwards became a nun. 

In the room beyond the last there is 
nothing worthy of remark, but in the 
next are the following works: — 344, 
Schadow—Tlie wise and foolish Virgins. 
347-356, Steinle — 10 coloured cartoons, 
for the frescoes at the Castle of Pheineck 
(p. 275). 357-361, Schnorr— Cartoons 
of subjects from Orlando Furioso. 
362-371, Bamboux — 10 coloured draw- 
ings from the Divina Comedia. In a 
room opening out of the 3rd room, and 
called the Fresco-Saal, is a fresco by 
Veit, representing the introduction of 
the arts into Germany by Christianity, 
with two allegorical figures of Italy 
and Germany at the sides. Here are 
casts of the latest of Ghiberti's 2 cele- 



498 



ROUTE 95. FRANKFURT. MUSEUM. LIBRARY. Sect. VIII. 



brated bronze doors of the Baptistery, 
Florence ; and of parts of the other, 
and of that by Andrea Pisano ; and a 
singular and very remarkable composi- 
tion, in terra cotta, representing the 
Virgin and Saints, by Giorg. Andrioli, 
1511, from the Ch. of the Madonna del 
Rosario at Gubbio, in the province of 
Urbino. The very interesting collec- 
tion of engravings contains some etch- 
ings by Flemish masters not to be met 
with in any other cabinet. 

2. The Senkenberg Museum of Na- 
tural History (close to the picturesque 
Eschenheim Gate, a building of the 
14th cent.) contains very good col- 
lections in the various branches of na- 
tural history, tolerably well arranged. 
Many rare specimens, not to be found 
in other museums, were brought to 
Europe by the enterprising traveller 
Riippel, a native of Frankfurt, from 
Egypt, Nubia, the shores of the Red 
Sea, and Abyssinia. They are the re- 
sult of several arduous and interesting 
journeys undertaken by him, at his 
own expense, for the benefit of this 
museum. A small annuity has been 
settled on him for life by the city of 
Frankfurt since his return. There is a 
small ethnological collection at the top 
of the house. 

The Museum is opened to the public 
gratis, twice a week, for 2 hrs. ; "Wed. 
2 to 4 ; Frid. 11 to 1. Members have 
access every afternoon. A small fee to 
the keeper will procure admission for a 
stranger from 8 to 1 and 3 to 6 on other 
days, to this collection. 

Dannecker's Statue of Ariadne, in the 
garden of Mr. Bethman, near the Fried- 
burg Gate, is the great boast of Frank- 
furt, and deserves to be ranked among 
the distinguished productions of modern 
art. The artist, whose works are little 
known in England, was a native of 
Wiirtemberg. The statue is placed in 
a pavilion built for its reception, and 
is usually shown from 10 to 1 daily. 
Here is preserved a mask from the face 
of the unfortunate Prince Lichnowsky, 
so basely and cruelly nmrdered by Re- 
publican bloodhounds, Sept. 19, 1848, 
near this spot. A very pretty reduced 
copy of the Ariadne in bronze may be 
had of Ihlee, No. 63, Zeil. 



Just outside the Friedburg Gate 
stands the monument erected by the 
King of Prussia to the memory of the 
Hessian soldiers killed in the siege of 
Frankfurt, 1792. 

The Public Library, in a handsome 
building, facing the Main, close to the 
Ober Main Thor, is a useful collection 
of books. In the entrance-hall is a 
marble statue of Gothe, by Mavchesi. 
It is open to the public, Tues. and 
Thurs. 11 to 12. The Library possesses 
a few curiosities, among which are por- 
traits of Luther (by L. Cranachf), and 
of his wife Oath, a Bora; 2 pair of 
Luther's shoes, two missals with curious 
old carvings in ivory on the covers, 
and a fine copy of the first edition of the 
Bible printed by Faust, at Mentz. The 
Library is open, Tues. and Thurs. 11 to 
12 ; Wed. and Frid. 2 to 4. 

St. George's Hospital, behind the 
Library, is a handsome new building, 
and a well-regulated establishment. 

The poet Gothe was born at Frank- 
furt, in the house marked F. No. 74, 
in the Hirschgraben, 1749. His father's 
coat of arms, which, by a curious 
coincidence, bears the poetical device 
of 3 lyres, still remains over the door. 
A monumental statue of him by Schwan- 
thaler of Munich has been set up 
in the Allee, facing the Theatre ; it is 
of bronze, pedestal and figure, and is 
a fine work : the subjects of the bas- 
reliefs are taken from Gothe' s works. 

A group of statues of Gutenberg, 
Faust, and Schoffer, the inventors of 
printing, will soon be placed in the 
Rossmarkt. 

Luther resided in a corner house in 
the Bom Platz, now marked by his 
bust and the inscription, " In silentio 
et spe erit fortitudo vestra." — C. K. 

Frankfurt is the cradle of the Roth- 
schild family ; the house in which they 
were born is in the Judengasse (Jews' 
Street), which long retained the pri- 
mitive air of antiqirity, and the usual 
rags and refuse of a Jew's quarter, but 
is gradually becoming modernized. 

The Jews, who form no inconsider- 
able portion of the community here, 
have till very lately been treated with 
great illiberality by the Free Town. 
The gates of the quarter to which they 



Nassau. 



ROUTE 95. — FRANKFURT. EXCHANGE, ETC. 



499 



were exclusively confined were closed 
upon them at an early hour every night, 
after which ingress and egress were 
alike denied. This arbitrary municipal 
regulation was enforced, until Marshal 
Jourdan, in bombarding the town 
(1796), knocked down the gate of the 
Jews' quarter, along with many houses 
near it, and they have not been re- 
placed since. Another tyrannical law, 
not repealed until 1834, restricted the 
number of marriages among the He- 
brews in the town to 13 yearly. The 
Synagogue, an old and curious Gothic 
building, is situated in the Judengasse. 
The Jews are no longer compelled to 
live in this street, but may hire or pur- 
chase houses in other quarters. 

The principal business carried on at 
Frankfurt is banking and jobbing in 
the funds. A new Exchange (Borse) 
has been huilt on the Neue Kr'ame, 
behind the Romer. It is in the style 
which at Munich is called Byzantine ; 
and built of a brown stone, with stripes 
of red stone arranged in the fashion of 
the Cathedral at Sienna. The architect 
is Stiller, of Berlin ; the statues in front 
represent Hope and Prudence, the 
quarters of the Globe, Commerce, &c. 
The interior is a curious mongrel style 
of semi-mauresque, but worthy notice. 
The Braunfels, which formerly served 
that purpose, is an old building in 
which the Empr. Maximilian and Gus- 
tavus Adolphus resided; it is filled 
with traders at the fair time. Near 
the Borse is the modern Ch. of St. Paul, 
in which the would-be German Parlia- 
ment of 1848 met. 

Frankfurt has hitherto been a staple 
place, or entrepot, for central Europe, 
receiving the productions and manufac- 
tiu-es of all parts of the world, to dis- 
tribute them in detail over the whole 
Continent. In 1836 it acceded to the 
Prussian Custom-house league (§ 32), 
which may perhaps influence the ex- 
tent of its commercial transactions in 
future. 

The Frankfurt Fairs are held at 
Easter, and 3 weeks before Michael- 
mas. They are less important than 
formerly. While they last, and during 
the week preceding their commence- 
ment, the inns in the town are thronged 



to excess, so that it is difficult to 
obtain accommodation. The articles 
exposed for sale are, almost without 
exception, inferior to English manu- 
factures, but at the same time cheaper ; 
about one-fifth of the booths are pipe- 
shops ! 

The territory of Frankfurt does not 
much exceed 10 Eng. sq. m. in extent ; 
its limits are marked by ancient watch- 
towers erected on the high roads. 

The Germanic Diet used to meet at 
the residence of the Austrian Ambas- 
sador, who was its president, in the 
building, formerly the Palace of the 
Prince of Thurn and Taxis. 

Ministers from Great Britain, the 
United States, and almost all the states 
of Europe, reside here ; and travellers 
going to Austria or Italy should not 
neglect this opportunity of having their 
passport properly vise. 

As the Passport Offices are only open 
a few hours in the day, generally 2, 3, 
or 4 hours in the morning, and all 
close at noon ; and as the applicants 
are often very numerous, no time 
should be lost in sending the passport 
to be vise. The English P. 0. is open 
9^—12 ; the U. States, 11—1 ; Aus- 
trian and Prussian, 10 — 12, and 3 — 5 
p.m. ; Bavarian, 9 — 11. 

N.B. No passport can he vise until 
it has received the signature of the re- 
presentative of the country to which 
the bearer of the passport helongs. 

The office of British Consul is most 
worthily filled by Mr. Koch, one of the 
most eminent citizens, bankers, and 
Rhine wine exporters in Frankfurt. 
His house of husiness is No. 6, am 
Salzhaus, comer of the Rossmarkt. 
Of the multitude of English travellers 
who annually visit Frankfurt, there are 
few who cannot hear personal testi- 
mony to the urbanity and kindness of 
Mr. Koch. 

The English Service is performed 
once every Sunday at the French Ch. 
in the Allee, or in the Lutheran Ch. 
called Weisse Frauenkirche at 11^ 
by the chaplain of the embassy. 
English Physician, Sir Alexander Dow- 
nie : Dr. Spies is highly spoken of. 

The Theatre is very respectable in 
its orchestra and performers; it is 



500 



ROUTE 95. — FRANKFURT ON" THE MAIN. Sect. VIII. 



usually open 5 days in the week; it 
begins at 6 and ends at 9. There is a 
summer theatre at Bockenheim, a vil- 
lage near Frankfurt on the N.W., and 
the first stat. on the Frankfurt and 
Cassel Railway (Rte. 70). 

The Post-office is No. 52 in the Zeil, 
a few doors from the Hotel de Eussie, 
on the same side of the street. 

The Casino is one of the best clubs 
(§ 44) in Germany ; nearly 100 dif- 
ferent papers are taken in ; among 
them most of the French papers, Galig- 
nani's Messenger, the Times, and one 
or two other English journals. Stran- 
gers are liberally admitted upon the 
introduction of a member, and even 
ladies on certain days. 

The Cafe Milani, in the Eossmarkt, 
next to the Hotel d'Angleterre, is 
on the plan of French and Italian Cafes 
and has a room for ladies, where no 
smoking is allowed. 

Baths. — Grrebs' warm, cold, vapour 
baths, &c, Main Kay, J 45, close 
to the Leonhards Thor and St. Leon- 
hard's Ch., are good. 

The shop of M. Jiigel, the bookseller, 
opposite the great guard-house, is a 
pleasant lounge. Besides guide-books, 
maps, and views likely to be useful and 
interesting to travellers, there are 
usually some very tolerable pictures, or 
other objects of art for sale here. Mr. 
Jiigel is the Galignani of Frankfurt ; 
he speaks English, and is very civil and 
obliging in furnishing all sorts of in- 
formation to strangers. 

Mr. Wilman's (67 Zeil) and Mr. 
Schmerber's (opposite the Hotel de 
Eussie) shops possess similar advantages. 

Bohemian glass may be had at Tac- 
chi's, No. 44 in the Zeil, and at Vogel- 
sang and Miiller's, Liebfrauenberg, G 
53, who have a manufactory near 
Strakonitz. 

The reliefs cut in stags' horn (Hirsch- 
hom), after the manner of a cameo, 
are very pretty. They are made in 
the neighbouring village of Bocken- 
heim. They may be had at Bolder' s 
shop, 26 Zeil, and Bing's, also in the 
Zeil, and elsewhere. The bronze 
copy of the Ariadne of Dannecker is to 
be had here, and at Ihlee's, 63, Zeil. 

Pillot and Sohn, 35 Zeil, opposite 



the Hotel de Eussie, is a good shop for 
canvas work in wool, and embroidery 
(Stramin and Stickerei). 

Mr. S. Gands, 200 Mainzer Gasse, is 
recommended to the editor as a teacher 
of German. He is a native of Hanover. 

At Jager's shop (Jdgersche Buch- 
handlung), on the Dom Platz, oppo- 
site the N. door of the Cathedral, one of 
the oldest geographical establishments 
in Germany, a large assortment of 
maps, geographical works, &c, is kept. 
—67. B. 67. 

/. J. Weiler, on the WoUgrabeh 
(Let. A. No. 36), not far from the 
bridge, is a respectable money-changer. 
L. A. Hahn, Zeil, is also a money- 
changer. 

Public Gardens. — The agreeable 
belt of gardens which encircles the 
town of Frankfurt is one of its most 
pleasing and ornamental features. No 
stranger should omit to visit them. 
They occupy the site of the ancient 
fortifications, which had proved, on 
several occasions, a detriment rather 
than an advantage to the town, by 
subjecting it to the misery of sieges 
and bombardments. 

At the W. extremity of Frankfurt, 
on the bank of the Main, there are 
public gardens, called Mainlust, where 
a band plays in the afternoon. 

The Old and New Cemeteries, about 
a mile from the Friedberg Gate, are 
worth visiting (§ 45). The spot com- 
mands a charming view of Frankfurt 
and the Taunus. Among the monu- 
ments under the arcade at the upper 
end, that of the Bethman family, with 
beautiful bas-reliefs by Thorwaldsen, is 
well worth notice. They are seen by 
looking through the door of open work 
at the N. end of the arcade. A costly 
monument has been set up to the 
Countess Reichenbach, who was mar- 
ried to the late Elector of Hesse. 
Sommering the naturalist, and Feuer- 
bach the lawyer, are buried here. 

Many pleasant Excursions may be 
made from Frankfurt. 1. To Wies- 
baden and the Brunnen of Nassau by 
railway (Ete. 95). 2. To the Tau- 
nus mountains by railwav as far as 
Hochst and Soden (Ete. 97). 3. To 
Homburg and its splendid new Kurhaus. 



Nassau. route 96. — giessen to coblenz. weilburg. 



501 



Omnibus 8 or 10 times a day (Etc. 
97). To Offenbach, by railway, 2 m. 
above Frankfurt on the 1. bank of the 
Main, a nourishing, industrious town, 
where good travelling carriages are 
made, cheaper than the English, but 
not quite so good. 

The Prince of Thurn and Taxis 
enjoys the right of managing the Posts 
of some of the minor German states. 
His head post-office is at Frankfurt. 

Eilwagen [Office, Zeil, behind the 
post-office) — daily to Coblenz in 12 
hrs., to Weilburg in 7 hrs., — to Sie- 
gen by Wetzlar in 14 hrs., — to Wurz- 
burg in 13 hrs., Nuremberg in 25. hrs., 
— to Ratisbon in 38 hrs., — to Paris 
by Metz by malleposte in 45 hrs., — 
Homburg, almost every hour. 

Railroads : — to Mayence and Wies- 
baden, — to Darmstadt and Heidelburg, 
combined terminus outside the Gallus 
Thor — to Cassel partially — to Ha- 
nau — to Offenbach. 

Steamers on the Main to Wiirzburg 
daily. (See Handbook S. Germany.) 

Hauser, the Lohnkutscher, is recom- 
mended as a respectable person, from 
whom carriages and horses may be hired 
§ 34). 

Hire of a carriage for a journey. — 
" At Frankfurt the ordinary charge 
made by an innkeeper is 5 fr. a day 
for a caleche holding 4 inside, to be 
drawn by 2 horses, the postilion driving 
from the box; sometimes, however, 
such a carriage may be had for 4 fr. a 
day, if taken for some time. Such a 
carriage, second-hand, may be pur- 
chased in Frankfurt for 20?. or SOI." 

ROUTE 96. 

GIESSEN TO COBLENZ, AND DESCENT OF 
THE LAHN, BV WEILBURG, LIMBURG, 
AND EMS, 

14 Germ. m. = 60 Eng. m. 

A schnellpost daily in 13-^ hrs. Giessen 
lies on the high road from Frankfurt 
to Cassel. (Rte. 70, p. 378.) 

Our road follows the 1. bank of the 
Lahn. A railway is talked of: 1851. 
There is a splendid view from the hill 
over which the road approaches. 

2 Wetzlar. — Inn, Herzogliches 
Haus; tolerable, and civil people. 
This was anciently a free Imperial 



town, and seat of the Imperial Cham- 
ber from 1698 to 1806; but at the 
Peace of Paris, it, together with the 
isolated territory attached to it, was 
made over to the King of Prussia. 
It is old and badly built, but is charm- 
ingly situated in the Lahn valley; it 
contains about 5500 inhab., and has a 
Cathedral or JDom, a fine Gothic edifice, 
built at 3 periods ; it is amicably di- 
vided between Catholics and Protes- 
tants. The old portal, called Heiden- 
thurm, is said to be of the 8 th cent. 
The interior is curious, the monuments 
are well preserved. Wetzlar derives 
some celebrity from being the scene of 
Gothe's romance, " The Sorrows of 
Werther," founded on events which 
actually occurred here. The hero was 
a Legations Secretary, named Jeru- 
salem ; he is buried in ,the churchyard 
outside the Walbach Gate. In front 
of that gate is Charlotte's Fountain, 
and the house of her father, whose 
name was Amtmann Buff. The author 
has described, under the name of 
Walheim, the village of Garbenheim, 
2 m. distant. The French General 
Hoche died at Wetzlar of consumption. 
2 m. below Wetzlar is the fine Gothic 
ch. of Altenberg, recently restored, ori- 
ginally attached to a convent. It con- 
tains curious monuments. 

The next stage lies at some distance 
from the river, passing the town of 
Braunfels ; on the height above is the 
Chateau of the mediatised Prince of 
Solms-Braunfels. Immediately beyond 
it the Prussian territory ends, and that 
of Nassau begins. 

3 Weilburg — (Inns : Schwan, good, 
with a fine view). Traube is beauti- 
fully situated on a high bank above the 
river, being built on a peninsula, which 
is joined to the 1. bank by a narrow 
neck of land, and has a Castle, an- 
ciently the residence of the Ducal 
family of Nassau -Weilburg, — removed 
since the extinction of the line of 
Nassau-Usingen to Biberich. The 
gardens extend down to the river. The 
Dukes of Nassau are buried in a church 
here. In the vicinity there is an ex- 
tensive park. The view of Weilburg 
is surpassed by few scenes in N. Ger- 
many, the principal features being the 



502 



ROUTE 96. — LIMBURG. THE LAHN". DIETZ. Sect. VIII. 



old castle on a rock, the bridge, and 
the winding river. The hill on which 
Weilburg stands has been perforated 
by a Tunnel for the passage of the 
waters of the Lahn. It is lighted with 
gas, and serves as a canal. The Lahn 
is to be made navigable as far as Mar- 
burg, at the expense of Prussia, Nassau, 
Hesse-Cassel, and Hesse-Darmstadt. 
It was at Weilburg, that in 1836, Mr. 
Hollond, M.P. for Hastings, Mr. 
Monk Mason, and Mr. C. Green, de- 
scended in the " Nassau Balloon," 
having made the voyage from London 
to this place in 18 hrs., starting at 
1^- p.m., and arriving here at 7^ on the 
following morning. 

[There is a road hence by Usingen, 
over the Taunus, and down upon Hom- 
burg to Frankfurt, 8 Germ. m. = 38-^ 
Eng. m. A public conveyance runs 
daily on this road. The road between 
"Weilburg and Usingen passes through 
some fine forests, mostly belonging to 
the Duke of Nassau, whose park is 
passed. At Usingen is a palace be- 
longing to the Duke. From the top of 
the hill, before descending into Hom- 
burg, there is a fine view of the Oden- 
wald, as far as the Duchy of Baden.] 

This part of the valley of the Lahn 
is picturesque, enclosed by wooded hills, 
and is interesting to the geologist. It 
was formerly partitioned out between 
the 4 reigning houses of Solms, Isen- 
burg, Nassau, and Konigstein. The 
post road from Weilburg to Limburg is 
for the most part uninteresting; that 
passing by the ancient town and castle 
of Runkel, being a cross road, is bad. 
A little above Limburg, on the rt. 
bank of the Lahn, is the very old 
Church of Dietkirchen, standing on a 
rock, and containing bones of St. Mat- 
thew and St. Lubentius, as it is re- 
ported. 

3 Limburg (Inns: Nassauer Hof; 
Deutscher Hof ; Bellevue), a very an- 
cient town on the Lahn. The superb 
Cathedral of St. George towers pre- 
eminently above the other buildings. 
It was originally founded 909, but the 
existing edifice is not older than the 
end of the 12th or beginning of the 
13th cent. Its architecture is particu- 
larly interesting, as it exhibits the 



latest character of the Byzantine style, 
mixed with the commencement of the 
pointed Gothic. It contains several 
monuments of princes of Nassau, and a 
very old font, but is sadly disfigured by 
whitewash. 

The views of the winding Lahn from 
this church and from the picturesque 
bridge, and that of the church itself, 
from a mill on the bank of the river, 
are very fine. The MS. called Lim- 
burg Chronicle is one of the oldest sources 
of German history. A boat may be 
hired at Limburg to descend the river 
to Ems and Coblenz. Limburg is con- 
nected by good macadamised roads with 
Frankfurt, 8^ Germ. m. (Rte. 47); 
and Wiesbaden, 6 Germ. m. Nieder- 
Selters is about 9 m. off (p. 488). 

Eilwagen to Cologne daily, in 15 hrs. 
Wiesbaden daily, in 5 hrs. 

At Limburg the high road crosses 
and quits the Lahn. The next stage 
lies over a hilly country : L see S. Oran- 
ienstein and Schloss Schaumburg. 

3 Montabaur [Inn: Weisses Boss), 
a very picturesque town ; its old castle 
originally belonged to the Elector of 
Treves ; is now a hunting lodge of the 
D. of Nassau. This stage lies through 
pretty country ; . a magnificent view of 
Ehrenbreitstein is obtained from the 
last hill before reaching 

3 Coblenz (Rte. 37, p. 269). 



The Lahn between Limburg and 
Ems is very picturesque, and well 
worth exploring ; but the road along 
this part of its course is a cross road not 
practicable for English carriages. 

Dietz, 3 m. from Limburg (Inn, Hof 
von Holland ; good and clean; Adler), 
is romantically situated on the Lahn, 
which is crossed by a bridge 600 years 
old, overlooked by the castle of its an- 
cient counts, of Nassau-Dietz, built on 
the summit of a rock, now the principal 
prison of Nassau. Not far off is Oran- 
ienstein, a chateau of the D. of Nassau, 
not inhabited nor remarkable. 

At Dietz, a boat with 2 rowers 
may be hired for 6 or 7 fl. to descend 
the Lahn to Ems. The river winds so 
much as to make the distance nearly 
double that by the high road, and the 
passage to take up 6 hrs. It is not 



Nassau. 



ROUTE 97. — THE TAUNUS MOUNTAINS. 



503 



unlike the Wye, though at first the 
scenery exhibits a sameness of beauty, 
the hills on both sides being covered 
with wood, and not distinguished by 
much variety of shape ; but the nu- 
merous villages and ruined castles on 
its banks contribute to embellish the 
views. A few miles below Dietz is the 
mineral spring of Fachingen on the 1., 
and, about as far again lower down, 
Geilnau on the rt. bank of the Lahn. 
Many thousand bottles of the water are 
exported annually : it is very like that 
of Selters. At a little distance from 
the Lahn, on its 1. bank, half-way be- 
tween Fachingen and Geilnau, are the 
castles of Balduinstein, built 1325, by a 
bishop of Treves, the most interesting 
object on the road ; and Schaumburg, 
once the residence of the princes of 
Anhalt-Bernburg, extinct since 1812, 
now belonging to the Archduke Stephen. 
A mile beyond Geilnau, and about 14 
from Ems, is Holzappel (/ran, Bar), a 
small and uninteresting town, sur- 
rounded by fine mountains. On the 
road not far from it, close to the river, 
stand the ruins of the castle of Lauren- 
burg, the original residence of the Nas- 
sau family, who bore the name of 
Counts of Laurenburg down to the 
middle of the 12th cent. 

rt. Further on are the village of 
Obernhof, and the small but very per- 
fect old castle of Langenau, with its 
walls, gates, towers, and external for- 
tifications complete, but filled with vile 
modern buildings, seated on a flat which 
seems to have been once an island. 

1. The ruined Abbey of Arnstein, 
standing conspicuous on the side of a 
mountain, opposite Langenau, presents 
a splendid and picturesque front to the 
gaze of the passenger. It was the 
feudal seat of a long line of counts, the 
last of whom, Louis of Amstein, having 
no son, married and portioned off his 
7 daughters, dividing among tbem a 
part of his estates ; then converting his 
castle into a convent, he endowed it 
with the rest of his property, and finally 
became a monk himself. It is now a 
Penitentiary for Rom. Cath. Priests ! 
There are no remains of the original 
castle. The Church is entire ; its 2 
towers date from 1359. 



When the Lahn is low, it is fordable 
opposite to Arnstein ; at other times 
those who come from Nassau must cross 
by the ferry at Obernhof, higher up. 

The road from Dietz to Ems, though 
bad, is practicable for post carriages, 
and is very picturesque. It does not, 
however, follow the course of the Lahn 
until a short distance from Obernhof, 
about 2 leagues from Nassau. By a 
steep ascent it reaches Holzappel ; 
thence, through a beech forest, it passes 
above Obernhof, and mounting to a 
great height, occupies the narrow neck 
of an isthmus between the deep glens 
of the Lahn and Weinahrbacb. Next 
passing Langenau and Arnstein it 
reaches 

3-^ Nassau (Rte. 95). 

1 Ems (p. 482). 

ROUTE 97. 

THE TAUNUS MOUNTAINS, FROM WIES- 
BADEN TO FRANKFURT, BY EPPSTEIN, 
KONIGSTEIN, AND HOMBURO. 

The E. extremity of the Taunus 
chain of hills, though little known to 
English tourists, will well repay those 
who may be tempted to explore it. 
The district here referred to might be 
nearly included within a triangle drawn 
between the towns of Wiesbaden, 
Frankfurt, and Homburg. This part 
of the chain presents in its narrow pas- 
toral valleys, clear purling streams, and 
wooded heights, scenery of the utmost 
beauty, differing from that nearer to 
the Rhine in its character of sylvan 
solitude, and perhaps surpassing it in 
variety. 

Roads. — The post road from Wies- 
baden to Frankfurt passes considerably 
to the S. of these hills ; but that from 
Frankfurt to Limburg crosses them. 
There is a carriage road direct from 
Wiesbaden to Konigstein through Epp- 
stein, quite practicable even for a 
heavily laden German carriage, though 
it is bad in some places. The part 
between Nauroth and Bremthal is bad 
after wet weather. The other roads 
are scarcely practicable for an English 
carriage, though passable, with some 
difficulty, for a light German caleche. 
The best mode of exploring this coun- 



504 



ROUTE 97. EPPSTEIN. KONIGSTEEST. 



Sect. VIII. 



try is on horseback or on foot, as the 
beauties of many of its valleys will be 
lost to those who confine themselves to 
carriages and the high roads. Those 
who do not mind jolting over rough 
roads may indeed approach them in a 
country car, and then with the aid of a 
guide penetrate into their recesses on 
foot. 

Pedestrians may explore the finest 
parts of this fertile and picturesque 
hill-country district in 2 days, by adopt- 
ing the following course. Take the 
Taunus Railway (Bte. 99) to Hat- 
tersheim Stat., walk thence to Hofheim 
(2 m.), ascend to the chapel (^ hr.'s 
walk) to Eppstein (5 m.), visit the 
castle ; — to Konigstein (5 m.). In the 
evening explore the castle, and Falken- 
stein. Early next morning ascend the 
less and greater Feldberg (5 m.), then 
walk to the Altkonig (4 m.), back to 
Konigstein (4 m.), dine there. In the 
afternoon take the diligence to Soden, 
whence a branch railway runs to Hochst. 
(p. 507.) 

At Hattersheim a tolerable country 
road, but destitute of shade, turns off 
to the N.W., and leads to the pretty 
village of Hofheim (2 m.). The chapel 
on the height commands a view which 
will well repay the trouble of ascending 
to it. The valley of Lorsbach, above 
Hofheim, as far as Eppstein (5 m.), is 
very beautiful indeed. 

Eppstein (Inn, The Oil Mill), de- 
lightfully situated at the junction of 4 
valleys. The wild and sequestered 
village is wedged in a narrow defile 
between rocks and mountains. The 
massy towers and donjons of the old 
baronial castle, perched like an eagle's 
nest on the most accessible point of 
rock, overhang it. 

The family of Eppstein seems nearly 
as old as that of Nassau ; many of its 
members were chancellors of the em- 
pire and archbishops of Mayence. One 
of them crowned the Empr. Fredk. 
Barbarossa, at Aix-la-Chapelle, and 
afterwards was made Patriarch of Jeru- 
salem. The line became extinct in the 
16th cent. : several of their monuments 
still exist in the village Church. The 
Castle now belongs to a gentleman of 
taste and knowledge of antiquities, who 



takes care of it, and has planted the 
little terraces with flowers, and made 
every part accessible. The castle is cut 
off from the mountain by a deep dry 
trench, evidently artificial. 

Konigstein is about 6 m. N.E. from 
Eppstein ; the way thither lies through 
the pretty vale of Fischbach. " The 
whole landscape, the hanging woods, 
variously tinted by autumn, the jutting 
rocks, the sombre sequestered recesses 
in the glen, and the lonely stillness 
which pervaded the scene, sometimes 
reminded one of some of the least wild 
of Salvator's romantic scenes, or of the 
cool and lovely valleys of Gaspar Pous- 
sin." — Autumn near the Rhine. From 
Fischbach to Schneidhain the way lies 
across the open table-land — thence it 
ascends to 

Konigstein. — Inns : Post, or Stadt 
Amsterdam, good; the landlord has a 
trout stream : Lowe (Lion), which has 
a garden attached to it. This village 
is a post station on the high road from 
Frankfurt to Limburg. Above it, on 
the height, rises the ruined Castle of 
Konigstein, a modern fortress with 
bastions and casemates, engrafted on a 
feudal stronghold of the middle ages, 
with battlements and watch-towers. 
It belonged originally to the Counts of 
Falkenstein, and afterwards to the 
Barons of Eppstein; was taken by 
Grustavus Adolphus in the Thirty Years' 
War, and by the French, who dis- 
mantled it and blew up its works in 
1796. There is a fine view from it 
over the valleys of the Main and Bhine, 
while the neighbouring castles of Falk- 
enstein and Kronberg are most pic- 
turesque objects in the foreground. 

An excellent carriage-road goes from 
Konigstein to Soden, whence there is a 
branch railway to the Hochst station 
on the Frankfurt and Mayence Bailway. 
Those who travel on foot, or who do 
not mind rough cross-roads, may con- 
tinue on to the Falkenstein, about a mile 
N.E. from Konigstein. This bold and 
picturesque ruin is an imposing relic of 
a feudal stronghold and baronial resi- 
dence of the days of chivalry, and the 
exquisite view from it renders it one of 
the most interesting points of the tour. 
It was the cradle (Stammhaus) of a 



Nassau. 



ROUTE 97. — GREAT FELDBERG. HOMBURG. 



505 



noble family named Nuringen, before it 
was added to the possessions of the 
house of Nassau. 

3 m. S.E. of Konigstein lies the 
watering-place of Soden, well provided 
with lodging-houses : briue springs rise 
near it. There is a good road down the 
hill from Konigstein eastward to Kron- 
berg, 2 m., a village of about 1400 
inhab., prettily situated, surrounded by 
orchards and nursery gardens. Here 
is another ruined Castle ; its owners, a 
knightly family, were engaged in con- 
stant feuds with the city of Frankfurt. 
A painting, still existing, represents a 
victory gained by its barons over the 
burghers of the free city. There is a 
mineral spring at Kronthal, a little 
farther on, to which people resort in 
summer ; and the Kurhaus affords good 
quarters. 

The Great Feldberg, the highest of 
the Taunus mountains, rises imme- 
diately to the N". of Falkenstein and 
Kronberg. The summit, 2600 ft. above 
the sea, is accessible for carriages, and 
is about 3 m. distant. It commands 
one of the most extensive panoramic 
views to be met with in N". Germany, 
including the Rhine and Main, the 
great cities and towns on their banks 
as far as Strasburg, whose spire is said 
to be visible in clear weather, and the 
mountain ranges of the Black Forest, 
Vosges, Mont Tonnerre, Odenwald, and 
Taunus. 

A huge fragment of quartz rock at 
the top of the Feldberg is called Brune- 
hilda's bed, from a tradition that a 
beautiful Frankish queen of that name 
took refuge here from her enemies. 
Upon the Altkonig (2400 ft.), the near- 
est neighbour S.E. and the mountain 
next in height to the Feldberg, are the 
remains of ancient entrenchments, made 
either by the Romans or by the abori- 
gines of this country. 

There is a direct road from Kronberg 
to Frankfurt; but the journey may be 
agreeably extended by continuing on- 
wards through a pretty country to Ober- 
Ursel, where the old church is curious, 
and thence to 

Homburg. — Inns : H. Maillard ; 
H. d'Angleterre, well situated; Hes- 
sischer Hof, moderate ; Hotel Quatre 
[N. G.] 



Saisons, new and large, with a table- 
d'hote at 5. 2nd class Inns : Goldener 
Adler ; Engel ; H. de Frankfurt. The 
rent of good lodgings in good situations 
varies from 15 to 20 florins per week 
for 3 or 4 rooms, and from 5 to 7 fl. for 
a single bedroom, from June to Sept. 
House -rent has risen considerably 
within the last few years. Homburg 
is a small town of 3500 inhab., prettily 
situated on an eminence in the midst of 
cultivation, and half surrounded by 
projections from the Taunus. The dis- 
covery of Mineral Springs, partly by 
boring Artesian wells,, has, within a 
few years, converted Homburg into a 
frequented watering-place. The waters 
are very valuable in cases of disordered 
liver and stomach. There are 5 springs : 
that of Elizabeth, compared with the 
Rakoczy at Kissingen, contains more 
carbonic acid than any other saline spa 
known, and on that account sits lightly 
on the dyspeptic stomach; the Stahl- 
brunnen, like the ferruginous water of 
Spa ; Kaiserbrunnen, similar to the 
Carlsbad water; Badequelle, a salt spring 
like that of Kreuznach ; and Ludwigs- 
brunnen. Dr. Prytherch is the resident 
English physician. 

On the strength of this some French 
speculators have built, at a cost of 
20,000^., a Kurhaus, one of the most 
splendid in Germany, decorated in- 
ternally with frescoes and stucco work 
by artists from Munich. It contains 
halls, dining (table - d'hote at 2 and 
5), coffee, and smoking rooms ; also 
a reading room, where English and 
foreign papers and periodicals are taken 
in. The real destination of the build- 
ing is as a gaming-house, that disgrace 
to the minor princes of Germany. Let 
those who are disposed to risk their 
money inquire what is the character of 
the managers, and be on their guard. 
The expenses of such an enormous and 
splendid establishment must be paid out 
of the pockets of travellers. About 
50,000 florins are lost here annually by 
the public in play. By way of tickling 
the trouts, an admirable band, provided 
by the managers, plays thrice a day on 
the walks, and the establishment affords 
great accommodation to strangers. 

The chief building is the gloomy 

Z 



506 



ROUTE 98. INGELHEIM. 



Sect. VIIT. 



Palace of the Prince of Hesse Homburg, 
or Schloss. Its most conspicuous feature 
is a lofty detached tower in the prin- 
cipal court, resembling an old Scotch 
castle, a remnant of a former building. 
Over the inner gateway peers forth an 
equestrian figure of Prince Frederick of 
Hesse, who by a bold charge gained the 
victory of Fehrbellinn over the Swedes 
for the Great Elector of Brandenburg. 
It contains a collection of Roman an- 
tiquities dug up on the Saalburg, 3 m. 
off. The gardens immediately attached 
to the castle were tastefully laid out in 
the style of English pleasure-grounds, 
by the late Landgravine Elizabeth 
(daughter of George III.)? 'but are neg- 
lected and going to ruin. Between 
these and the foot of the Taunus extend 
a succession of flower - gardens and 
shrubberies on either side of the public 
road, itself an avenue of fine Lombardy 
poplars. Beyond this lies the Park, and 
on the slopes of the hills are many 
pleasant walks and drives cut in all 
directions through the woods and forests 
around, which clothe the sides of the 
Taunus ; so that the wanderer may 
penetrate for miles under the refreshing 
shade of the forest, and may at last find 
himself on the summit of some emi- 
nence, commanding the country far and 
wide. The salt-works of Nauheim, with 
the interesting boiling fountain, are 
distant 1^ hr.'s drive N.E. from Hom- 
burg. The road runs through Fried- 
berg. (See Rte. 70.) 

English Church Service every Sunday. 

Homburg is 9 m. from Frankfurt, 
p. 495. 8 or 10 omnibtises run daily to 
and fro, in 1^ hr. 

ROUTE 98. 

BINGEN TO MAYENCE, BY INGELHEIM. 

3^- Germ. m. = 16 Eng. m. 

There are 2 roads from Bingen to 
Mayenee ; one along the rt. bank of 
the Rhine, the most interesting, but not 
a post-road, described in Rte. 38, and 
the following, on the 1. bank, but at 
some distance from the river side. 
Both are traversed daily by Schnellposts. 

On quitting Bingen, it skirts the 
base of the Rochusberg, and begins to 
ascend a long but gradual eminence. 
Near the top stands a small obelisk 



erected by the French, bearing the in- 
scription, " Route de Charlemagne, 
termine en l'an I. du regne de Napo- 
leon." From this point, and from the 
heights a little further on, the view is 
most charming, extending over the 
Rhine, through the whole of the Rhein- 
gau, as far as the distant range of the 
Taunus. In such a situation it was 
that Charlemagne built his favoiuite 
residence of 

1^ Ingelheim, now reduced to a 
miserable village, about 1^ m. from the 
bank of the Rhine. Some writers 
suppose that it was the birthplace of 
Charlemagne ; at least he loved to dwell 
here, and built himself (768 to 774) a 
magnificent palace, which he decorated 
with 100 columns of marble and por- 
phyry, the spoils of Roman buildings, 
and with rich mosaics, sent to him by 
Pope Hadrian from Ravenna for that 
purpose. The site of the, edifice is 
now occupied by mud hovels and dung- 
heaps, and partly by a Jew's burying- 
groxvnd. It stood near the smaller of 
the two churches — the one nearest to 
Mayenee ; and the only relics remain- 
ing of it are a few mutilated fragments 
of pillars within the church, and a 
column of granite inserted in a comer 
of an old ruined gateway. In the 
church is also shown the monument 
of one of Charlemagne's 4 queens, a 
rudely carved stone, on which a female 
figure, crowned and in regal attire, 
is discernible. The ornaments round 
the stone in the pointed style indicate 
clearly that it is of a much later time 
than the reign of Charlemagne. These 
paltry fragments, and a few mouldering 
walls, are all that remain to tell where 
the palace of the great King stood. — 
The other church, on the side of Bingen, 
with a tall square tower, is an inte- 
resting example of the Romanesque. 
style. 

The red wine of Ingelheim is very 
tolerable. 

2 Mayexce (Rte. 38). 

ROUTE 99. 

MAYENCE TO FRANKFURT. — RAILWAY. 



4^ Germ. m. 



204 Ens. m. 



This Railroad, the Taunus-BaJm, 
opened in 1840, is a single line, double 



Nassau. 



ROUTE 100. — VALE OF THE NAHE. 



507 



only in places to allow the trains to 
pass each, other. The Terminus is in 
Castel, opposite to Mayence, on the rt. 
bank of the Rhine. (Inn, Bahrdt's.) 
Omnibuses ply to and fro for 12 kr. 
The branch line to Wiesbaden (6 trains 
daily, in 16 min.) is carried right 
through the fortifications of Castel, 
passes fort Montebello to Mosbach 
Stat., whence a branch line (for horses) 
leads to Biebrich on the Rhine. Trains 
go 6 times a-day in 1^ h. to Frankfurt. 
Fare in the second class (Diligences') 
(there is a better class somewhat more 
expensive), 1^ fl., including 40 lbs. of 
baggage. Any quantity above that 
pays at a very extravagant rate, viz. 
5 fl. for 300 lbs. The transport of a 
private carriage is 6^ fl. 

A bridge-toll (briickengeld) of 30 
kr. is paid for a carriage with 2 horses, 
in crossing the bridge of boats from 
Mayence to Castel. Castel belongs to 
Hesse Darmstadt ; but a little way out 
of the walls 2 painted posts, by the 
road-side, mark the frontier of Nassau. 
The railway is carried at first along 
the rt. bank of the Main, along the 
slope of the vineyards. About 4 m. on 
the road is 

Hochheim Stat., a village on the 
summit of a hill of moderate elevation. 
In its immediate vicinity, and along 
the sunny banks sloping down to the 
Main, for a space of 3 m., are the vine- 
yards which produce the wine called 
Hooky — a name improperly given by 
the English to Rhenish wines. The 
best wine is grown in the vineyards 
below the church, which are sheltered 
from cold winds by the houses of the 
town. They were anciently the pro- 
perty of the Chapter of Mayence, but 
now belong to the Duke of Nassau, 
and are highly valuable. The narrow 
strip of ground upon which the rail- 
way passes through them was very 
costly. 

Florsheim Stat. 

2^ Hattersheim Stat. (Nassauer Hof); 
this is the starting-place for an ex- 
cursion to the Taunus Mountains (Rte. 
97). 

Hochst Stat, on the Nidda, which 
is crossed by a bridge. The chief 
building in it is the deserted Palace of 



Bolongaro, a rich tobacconist, erected 
in the last cent. At Hochst there is a 
very old Church. Railway from this to 
Sodcn (3 m.) at the foot of the Taunus, 
and diligence thence to Konigstein. 
(Rte. 97.) The Feldberg, the highest 
of the range, and the Castle of Falken- 
stein at its foot, are visible near this. 
The boundary of the territory of Frank- 
furt is marked by an ancient watch- 
tower on the post-road to the 1. 

2 Frankfurt-a-M. (Rte. 95.) Ter- 
minus, outside the St. Gallus Thor. 

ROUTE 100. 

THE VALE OF THE NAHE. — BINGEN TO 
KREUZNACH AND SAARBRiiCK. 

19f Germ. m. == 91 Eng. m. 

A post-road, macadamised. Schnell- 
posts daily to Saarbriick by Kreuznach 
and Birkenfeld in 16 hrs. To Treves 
daily in 14^ hrs. Omnibuses 6 times 
a-day between Bingen and Kreuznach 
for 10 sgr. The most beautiful scenery 
of the Nahe is confined to the vicinity 
of Kreuznach and Oberstein. A car- 
riage with 2 horses may be hired 
from Bingen to Kreuznach and back in 
1 day (26 m.), for 7 or 8 fl., including 
the drive to Munster-am-Stein (2^ m. 
beyond Kreuznach), in order to visit 
the Rheingrafenstein. Omnibus fre- 
quently to Kreuznach. 

The Nahe pours itself into the 
Rhine at Bingen, through a portal 
formed by the Rochusberg on the rt. 
side, and the Rupertsberg on the 1., 
after a course of scarcely 60 m., during 
which it bathes the territories of 5 
different sovereigns — Oldenburg, Hesse 
Homburg, Prussia, Bavaria, and Hesse 
Darmstadt. 

The road runs along the 1. bank of 
the Nahe, which is Prussian ; the rt. 
belongs to Darmstadt : it passes the 
villages of Miinster, Laubenheim, and 
Brezenheim, before it reaches 

2 Kreuznach (Inns: Oranienhof; 
Englischer and Pariser Hof; Rhein- 
stein ; Pfalzer Hof; Adler ; Dheil's 
lodging-house, well-conducted), a poor 
though populous town of 9000 inhab. 
belonging to Prussia, in a picturesque 
situation, which has lately risen into 
great repute as a watering-place, so 

Z2 



508 



ROUTE 100. KREUZNACH. EBERNBURG. Sect. VIII. 



that the accommodation is scarcely 
adequate to the number of visitors. 
Kreuznach is much resorted to on ac- 
count of its cold Saline Spring, situated 
on an island i m. above the town. A 
careful analysis has discovered the ex- 
istence in the water of iodine and bro- 
mine in small quantities. It has been 
found singularly beneficial in scrofu- 
lous cases, and the resort to it is rapidly 
increasing ; the number of visitors ex- 
ceeds 3000 annually. A Kurhaus and 
Baths are erected near it within a grove 
of acacias, and an avenue of poplars 
leads to the spot. There are also brine 
baths here. The ruined choir of the 
Ch., near the bridge, is picturesque and 
of a good style (date 1332). A good 
view of Kreuznach may be had from 
the pleasure-ground on the top of the 
Schlossberg. In 1632 Kreuznach was 
taken by assault by the troops of Gus- 
tavus Adolphus. A party of English 
volunteers serving under him was most 
instrumental in its capture. The attack 
was led by Lord Craven, the champion 
of the Queen of Bohemia ; and not only 
he, but every English officer present, 
was wounded on this occasion. 

Bookseller. — Jugel, of Frankfurt, has 
a shop here. 

Physician. — Dr. Schweich, who speaks 
English. 

There is a carriage-road hence to 
the top of the Rheingrafenstein, on the 
rt, bank of the Nahe, which commands 
a fine view up the river, and may be 
reached in ^ an hour's time. 

2 m, above Kreuznach, on the 1. 
bank of the Nahe, are the Salinen, or 
Saltworks, of Theodorshalle ; and on 
the rt. bank those of Karlshalle, be- 
longing to the Grand Duke of Darm- 
stadt. They consist of a collection of 
very long sheds, filled with faggots, 
through which the salt water is made 
to trickle, after being raised by pumps, 
in order to evaporate it, and convert it 
into saturated brine, fit for the boiling- 
house. The springs naturally contain 
but 1-| per cent, of saline particles, 
which require to be raised to 26 or 28 
per cent, to convert it into saturated 
brine. 1 m, further (3 m. from Kreuz- 
nach) is another extensive saline, 
tailed Munster-am-Stein, built on a flat, 



nearly encircled by the jNahe, at the 
foot of the magnificent precipice of 
red porphyry 600 ft. high, which is 
crowned by the Castle of Rheingraf en- 
stein, an ancient stronghold of the 
Bheingraves, destroyed by the French 
in 1689. It is literally perched, like 
an eagle's nest, on a pinnacle of the 
rock, and is accessible from the salt- 
works by a ferry and a very steep foot- 
path, but more easily by descending 
upon it from the hill above. From a 
neighboxiring and still higher peak, 
called the Gans (Goose), the best view 
over the Nahe is obtained. 

[A little above the Eheingrafenstein, 
at the junction of the Alsenz with the 
Nahe, rises Ebernburg, a castle which 
belonged to Franz of Sickingen, the 
last of the knights errant, the terror of 
"Worms and Frankfurt, who, though 
but a simple knight, besieged the cities 
of Metz and Treves with an army of 
2000 horse and 17,000 foot, bidding 
defiance to the Emperor. In this 
stronghold he sheltered from persecu- 
tion many of the early Eeformers, who 
were his bosom friends. Melancthon, 
Bucer, and CEcolampadius, took refuge 
here under his roof; and Ulric von 
Hutten composed several of his works 
in this retreat. Its defences were so 
much augmented and strengthened, 
that it was thought capable of bidding 
defiance even to the armies of the em- 
pire. After Sickingen' s death, how- 
ever, his castle, though stoutly defended 
at first, was at length surrendered to 
the Electors of Hesse and of Treves, 
who carried off all the spoils, and then 
burnt it. The valley of the Alsenz con- 
tains some picturesque scenes and se- 
veral ruined castles. Inns : Muller's 
at Alsenz ; and Horster's (very fair) at 
Dielkirchen, 9 m. from the top of the 
Donnersberg (p. 510). Near Ober- 
moschel is the quicksilver-mine of 



Landsberg, now unproductive. Be- 
tween Obermoschel and Meissenheim 
there are coal-mines, which extend all 
the way from the Glan to the borders 
of the Alsenz ; the quicksilver is also 
situated in the coal formation.] 

During the next stage from Kreuz- 
nach the road quits the side of the 
Nahe, and, leaving these castles and 



Nassau. 



KOUTE 100. — OBERSTEIN. SAARBRUCKEN. 



509 



the salt-works considerably on the 1., 
proceeds direct to Sobernheim, passing 
on the rt. of the Castle and Abbey of 
Sponheim, the cradle of one of the no- 
blest and most ancient families on the 
Ithine. 

1. near Staudernheim lie the exten- 
sive ruins of the convent of Dissibo- 
denberg. 

A little below Sobernheim the Nahe 
receives the waters of the Glan. 

2 ~ Sobernheim (Inns : Post ; Adler), 
an old town, pop. 2300. In the 10th 
cent, the inhabitants, aided by the 
Pope, who granted them an indulgence 
for 2 years, built a bridge over the 
Nahe ; since then the river has changed 
its bed, and left the bridge on dry 
land. 

■ At Martinstein a basin-shaped valley 
opens out, at whose extremity rise the 
majestic ruins of the Castle of Dhaun, 
commanding a fine view. A path leads 
down from them, past the village of 
Dhaun and Johannisberg, into the 
Naho valley again. Below Johannis- 
berg a wild gorge opens out, through 
which a road runs to 

1\ Kirn. — Inns: Eheinlander;"Wittwe 
Doll. The scenery from the Castle of 
Dhaun to Oberstein is magnificent, 
and will well repay the toilsome jour- 
ney from Krcuznach. 

2-^ Oberstein (Inns : Post ; Caesar) 
is one of the dirtiest small towns 
it is possible to conceive. "It is 
very picturesque from its old ruined 
wooden buildings, and beautifully situ- 
ated on the Nahe, shut in by high and 
romantic cliffs, chiefly of porphyry or 
amygdaloid, abounding in agates, ame- 
thysts, &c, of great beauty and variety. 
The business of cutting and polishing 
them occupies a considerable number 
of the inhabitants. The stones are 
ground and polished by means of grind- 
ing-stones of red sandstone, moved 
by water-wheels in numerous small 
mills scattered along the neighbouring 
streams. There are large polishing 
mills at Idar, l^m. off. Close to Ober- 
stein are 2 fine precipitous isolated 
rocks. On the summit of each are re- 
mains of an ancient castle ; one still 
inhabited by peasants, the other quite a 
ruin. Immediately under the latter, 



in the face of the precipice, about | of 
its height above the valley, a large 
cavity has been hollowed out, in which 
the ancient Lutheran church, may be 
said to be embedded."— T. T. It is 
approached by stairs cut in the rock. 
The living rock forms the roof and one 
side of the building ; the other side is 
built up with a wall of masonry, in 
which are 2 large windows to light 
the interior. A spring of water gushes 
out of the floor. 

The agate manufactory is not so pro- 
fitable as formerly ; but the locality is 
interesting to the mineralogist, as, in 
addition to very fine and large agates, 
he will here be enabled to collect many 
other rare minerals and crystals, as 
chabasite, harmotome, &c. 

Oberstein belongs to the distant 
duchy of Oldenburg. The territory 
on the opposite side of the river for- 
merly belonged to Saxe Coburg, but has 
been sold to Prussia. 

The vale of the Nahe loses its beauty 
and interest above Oberstein. The 
road continues excellent. 

2^ Birkenfeld (Inn, kept by Widow 
Medicus) is the chief town of the 
principality of that name, belonging to 
Oldenburg, and contains a plain white- 
washed Ducal Chateau. 

[A hilly, but well macadamised road, 
provided with post-horses, leads over 
the bleak high land of the Hochwakl, 
from Birkenfeld, by Hermeskeil (a 
straggling village, containing nothing 
remarkable), 3 Germ m., to Troves, 4 
Germ. m. = about 32 Eng. m.] 

3^ St. "Wendel. A fine Church here. 

1| Ottweiler. Friedrichsthal. 

At Duttweiler, about 3 Eng. m. X. 
of Saarbrucken, is a seam of coal which 
has been on fire for 1 40 years. It is 
called " der brennende Berg." 

4 Saarbrucken or Saarbriick (Inns : 
Post ; Bar), a Prussian town of 8000 
inhab. on the Saar, which here begins 
to be navigable, and is crossed by a 
bridge connecting the town with the 
suburb of St. Johann. The Schloss 
was, down to 1793, the residence of the 
Princes of Nassau- Saarbrucken ; and 
in the Schlosskirche are some monu- 
ments of them. There are several coal- 
mines in the neighbourhood. About 



510 



ROUTE 100. — SAARBRUCK TO TREVES. Sect, VIII. 



2 m. S. of Saarbriicken, and higher up 
the valley of the Saar, is Arnual, with 
a fine Gothic church (1315), in which 
are some remarkable monuments of the 
Nassau-Saarbriicken family. 

Schnellposts daily, by Metz to Paris ; 
by Saarlouis, Merzig, and Saarburg, 
to Mainz ; _ and to Kreuznach. Steam- 
boats run daily between Saarbriicken 
and Saarlouis. 

Railway by Kaiserslautem to Mann- 
heim, Ete. 103. 

KOUTE 100 a. 

SAARBR0CK TO TREVES, BY SAARLOUIS. 

12£ Germ. m. = 56j Eng. m. Schnell- 
post daily in 10 hrs. 

The road from Saarbriicken (see Ete. 
100) to Treves descends the b eautful 
valley of the Saar. 

3-^ Saarlouis {Inns : Eheinischer Hof ; 
Salm), a strong frontier fortress of 
Prussia, with a long stone bridge over 
the Saar, which flows half round the 
town, and sometimes during the winter 
lays part of it under water. The forti- 
fications, constructed by Yauban, in 
the course of 1 year, for a bet with 
Louis XIV., may be inundated by 
sluices. One of the barracks contains 
an Artesian well. Its name was 
changed during the first French revo- 
lution to Sarrelibre. The inhab. (7000) 
are partly descended from English 
prisoners placed here by Louis XIV. 
It is the birthplace of Marshal Ney, 
whose father's house is marked by a 
tablet. By the peace of Eyswyk, 
France was left in possession of Saar- 
louis, but it was transferred to Prussia 
by the treaties of 1814-15. 

2^ Merzig. At about one-third of the 
way between this place and Saarburg, 
at Mettlach, was a Benedictine abbey, 
founded in the 7th cent., now a pottery. 
The ruins of a castle Montclair peer 
down upon the valley from an almost 
inaccessible cliff. The Saar is crossed 
by a ferry, and the road ascends. About 

3 m. before reaching Saarburg, and off 
the road near the river, is Castel, in a 
lofty position, originally a Eoman castle, 
repaired in 1838 by the present King 
of Prussia as a chapel in which to bury 
the remains of King John of Bohemia, 



only son of the Emp. Henry VII., 
who was killed in the battle of Crecy, 
1346. 

3 J Saarburg {Inns: Funck's ; Post), 
a small town, placed in a pretty open- 
ing of the valley of the Saar, where the 
small stream called the Leuk falls into 
it. There is a waterfall on the Leuk, 
near some picturesque ruins of a Castle. 

The Saar is crossed near its junction 
with the Moselle at Conz ; date of bridge, 
1782. Ausonius alludes to a very old 
one on this spot. " Qua bis terna fre- 
munt scopulosis ostiapilis." Near here 
are scanty remains of a summer palace 
of the Lower Empire. The Monument 
of Lyel is passed a little further on. 

3 Treves (Ete. 41). 

EOTJTE 101. 



KAISERSLAUTERN. 

21^ Germ. m. and 7f French posts 
= 146 Eng. m. 

Diligence daily in 34 hrs. ; mallepost 
in less. 

This road was made by Napoleon, 
to open a direct communication be- 
tween Mayence and Paris, and thence 
is called the Imperial road (Kaiser 
Strasse) . 

1^ Niederolm. 

1^ Worrstadt. 

1?§ Alzei (Inns : Darmstadter Hof; 
Poste ; zum Kaiser), a "very ancient 
town (3500 inhab.), known to the Bo- 
mans as Altiaia. The Castle, an ex- 
tensive ruin, was destroyed by the 
French in 1689. The road quits Hesse 
Darmstadt and enters Bavaria at the 
village of Morschheim. 

1^ Kirchheim Boland (Inn, Poste), 
a town of 3200 inhab., having iron- 
works in its vicinity. 

[The Mont Tonnerre (Donnersberg), 
is about 6 m. distant. The road leaves 
it on the rt., winding roimd its bWse. 
It is mentioned by Tacitus, who calls 
it Mons Jovis. During the French do- 
mination it gave the name to a De- 
partment, of which Mayence was the 
chief town. The mountain is 2090 
Par. ft. above the s6a, and is composed 
of porphyry. On the plateau at the top 
is a farm-house, once an old convent, 



Darmstadt. 



ROUTE 102. — MAYENCE TO STRASBURG. 



511 



which affords humble accommodation. 
It is encircled by a wall, whose origin 
is unknown, though it is supposed to 
be Roman. The best view is obtained 
from the point called Hirtenfels, or 
from the signal tower which was 
erected for a trigonometrical survey, 
but it is not so fine as that from the 
Melibocus on the opposite side of the 
Ehine.] 

1J Standebiihl. 

2 m. E. of Dreisen lies Gollheim 
(Inn, Hirsch), where the Empr. Adol- 
phus of Nassau was slain by the lance 
of his rival the Empr. Albert, 1 298 ; 
a stone cross under an open chapel 
marks the spot. 

2i Sembach. The Ch. of Otterberg, 
a little to the N.W. of Sembach, is a 
beautiful Gothic structure, begun by 
the Empr. Conrad II., 1040, but com- 
pleted at a much later period. 

1^ Kaiserslautern (Inns : Donners- 
berg, very good ; Baierischer Hof, dear ; 
Post), a town of 6500 inhab., in a very 
pretty situation. Its antiquity is very 
great. The Empr. Barbarossa built a 
strong castle here, which was destroyed 
by the French in the "War of the Suc- 
cession, and a prison now occupies its 
place. Three successive engagements 
took place near this in 1793-94, be- 
tween the French and Germans, in 
which the last gained some advantage. 
There are considerable woollen manu- 
factories here. Railway to Homburg, 
Mannheim, and Saarbriick, called the 
Pfalzer - Ludwigsbahn. It connects 
Mannheim and the coal-mines of Bex- 
bach, near Homburg. 

2 Landstuhl Stat. (Inns : Engel ; 
Baierische Krone ; Post), a town of 
1500 inhab., which formerly belonged 
to the Counts of Sickingen, whose 
Castle in ruins overhangs the town ; 
its walls are 24 ft. thick, and many of 
its chambers are hewn out of the rock. 
The brave and chivalrous Franz of 
Sickingen, the Cid and Bayard of 
Germany, the friend of Luther and 
of Gotz of Berlichingen, lost his life 
in it, in a bold struggle to defend it 
from the besieging forces of his deadly 
and powerful enemies, the Bishop of 
Treves and the Elector of Hesse. His 
death was caused by a heavy beam de- 



tached by a cannon-ball from the roof, 
which fell on him and crushed him. 
He was buried under the altar of the 
Catholic church, where his monument, 
mutilated by the French, may still be 
seen. 

1^ Bruchmuhlbach Stat. 

1^ Homburg Stat (Inn, Karlsberg), 
a town of 284-0 inhab. The fortress 
upon the Schlossberg, celebrated in the 
history of the Thirty Years' War, was 
razed 1714. 

2 Rohrbach. 

At Renderich is the Bavarian fron- 
tier. 

2 Saarbrucken, Prussian. In p. 509. 

1^ Forbach is the first place within 
the French frontier. 

2f St. Avoid. 

2 Foligny. 

I Courcelles Chaussy. 

II Metz (Inn, H. des Victoires), half 
way from Frankfurt to Paris. 

See Handbook for France. 

ROUTE 102. 

THE RHINE (E). MAYENCE TO STRAS- 
BURG, BY WORMS, MANNHEIM, AND 
SPIRES. 

The Rhine, above Mayence, loses all 
its beauty ; the wide plain through 
which it flows, bounded by the very 
distant chains of the Vosges and Hardt 
on the W., and the Odenwald and 
Black Forest on the E., is as dull and 
nearly as flat as Holland. The river 
does not fall more than 22 ft. between 
Spires and Mannheim. 

A railway is in progress (?) from 
Mayence to Ludwigshafen, opposite to 
Mannheim. 

The following route by the side of 
the Rhine passes through the territory 
of Hesse as far as Worms, thence 
through Rhenish Bavaria to Mann- 
heim ; it conducts the traveller through 
the ancient Imperial cities of Worms 
and Spires, so interesting in an histo- 
rical point of view, and so dull and 
desolate in their present state. Those 
who prefer pretty scenery should take 
the Rte. by Darmstadt and the Berg- 
strasse (R. 105). Whichever Rte. is 
followed, the traveller should not omit 
to visit Heidelberg and Baden. 



512 



ROUTE 102. NIERSTEIN. OPPENHEIM. Sect. VIIT. 



Steamers ascend the Khine from 
Mayence to Mannheim twice a-day, in 
6 lirs., returning in 4; from Mann- 
heim to Strasburg daily in 20 hrs., 
stopping at Daxlanden or Leopolds- 
hafen to let out passengers for Carls- 
ruhe. The steamer descends from Stras- 
hurg in 7 hrs. to Mannheim, in 2 days 
to Cologne, stopping the first night at 
Mannheim or Mayence ; and the best 
boats reach Rotterdam from Mayence 
in 36 hrs. 

The river winds very much in this 
part of its course, and the ascending 
voyage is tedious, slow, and disagree- 
able. Of late years many canals have 
been formed across the isthmuses created 
by the turns of the river, and thus its 
course is being shortened. This ren- 
ders the steam-voyage quicker. Still 
it is preferable to travel upwards by 
railway. 

Eilwagen daily from Mayence to 
Mannheim ; thence by rail to Heidel- 
berg, &c. The direct road by the 
banks of the Rhine from Spires to 
Strasburg is given here, for the benefit 
of those who travel by steam ; but there 
is no inducement to follow it in a car- 
riage. 

The E. bank of the Rhine, along 
which the road runs from Mayence, is 
at first a succession of gentle hills 
planted with profitable vineyards, the 
best among them being those of Bo- 
denheim and Lauhenheim. The soil of 
the low ground of the Rhine valley, all 
the way to Switzerland, is fertile in the 
extreme. 

1. Nierstein {Inn, Anker), a small 
town of 2200 inhab., gives its name to 
a very good second-class wine, pro- 
duced in the surrounding vineyards. 
The Sironahad, near Nierstein, was 
known to the Romans : not far from 
it, at the Yellow House Inn, is a flying 
bridge over the' Rhine. The Chapel 
of the family v. Herding is decorated 
with frescoes by Gotzenberger, a mo- 
dern artist, representing the Adoration 
of the Shepherds — the Coronation of 
the Virgin — penitent Magdelen — 
"Faith, ' Hope, and Charity. 

2J 1. Oppenheim. — Inn : Zum Gelben 
Hause (the Yellow House), mentioned 
above, outside the town, tolerable. On 



a hill to the KV. of this town (of 2400 
inhab.), under the stately ruins of the 
ancient Imperial Castle of Landskron, 
stands the Ch. of St. Catherine, a build- 
ing worthy to arrest the attention of all 
who pass this way. It is a pure ex- 
ample of the Gothic style, displaying 
at the same time the utmost richness 
of decoration consistent with elegance 
and propriety. The towers are in the 
style of the 12th cent. ; the nave and 
E. chancel, begun 1262 by Richard of 
Cornwall, Empr. of Germany, were 
completed in 1317 ; the "W. chancel, 
now a ruin, in 1439. The nave is re- 
markable for its lightness and beauty ; 
the painted glass of the windows must 
have been splendid ; in one of them it 
still remains nearly perfect. Some of 
them have a species of fan-shaped tra- 
cery. The rose window is one of the 
finest specimens in Germany, and most 
elaborate in its tracery. There are some 
curious monuments in the church of the 
Dalbergs and Riedesels, a family of 
the Wetterau, who bore asses' ears for 
their crest ; but, like the painted win- 
dows, the}' - are sadly mutilated ; indeed 
it is melancholy to see what was once 
so fine a building, and still possesses 
so much beauty, fallen into such a state 
of decay and neglect. The roof of the 
nave is gone, and within its walls is a 
wilderness of grass and weeds. These 
injuries owe their origin to the French, 
who burnt down a part of the church 
during the war of the Palatinate. It 
has happily undergone some repair re- 
cently, at the expense of the town ; its 
complete restoration is out of the ques- 
tion, as it has been left too long to go 
to decay, and the Grand Duke lends no 
assistance to the praiseworthy under- 
taking. 

A ruined chapel within the church- 
yard is half filled with the skulls and 
bones of Swedes and Spaniards, who 
fell here in battle, 1631, champions 
of the cause of Protestantism and 
Popery. 

rt. Gustavus Adolphus recorded his 
passage of the Rhine, in the winter of 
Dec. 7, 16ol, by a monument on the 
rt. bank at Erfclden, a little above 
Oppenheim, but not seen from the 
steamer, which traverses an artificial 



Darmstadt. 



ROUTE 102. — WORMS. CATHEDRAL. 



513 



cut. It consists of a pillar with a lion 
on the top. The Swedes crossed the 
Rhine singing a psalm ; and there is a 
tradition that their sovereign and 
leader was ferried over on a ham door. 
The field of hattle still goes hy the 
name of the Spaniards' churchyard, 
from the number of bones found in it. 

The road now quits the borders of 
the river, which winds exceedingly. 
A canal, cut across an isthmus formed 
by its bendings, saves the boatmen a 
circuit of several miles. 

rt. At Gernsheim {Inn, Lamm, 
Karpfen), on the rt. bank of the Rhine, 
a colossal statue of sandstone, 12 ft. 
high, of Peter Schoffer, the partner of 
Faust in the discovery of printing 
(1457), who was born here, has been 
qj ected, and is fresh painted every year 
on his birthday! Omnibus to Darm- 
stadt, fare 30 kr. 

The latter part of this stage from 
Oppenhcim to Worms is dreary. The 
election of an Empr. of Germany (1024), 
which ended in the choice of Conrad 
II. (the Salic), was held on the great 
plain between Oppenheim and Gunters- 
blum : the various German races, who 
had a voice, encamped on either side of 
the Rhine, no city being large enough 
to hold them. 

1. Immediately below "Worms, out- 
side the walls, though once included 
within them, is the Gothic Ch. of Our 
Lady (Liebe Frau), date 1467. It is 
situated within the vineyard which 
produces the pleasant 2nd-class wine 
called after it Liebfrauenmilch (our 
Lady's milk). On each side of its 
entrance are curious carvings repre- 
senting the Wise and Foolish Virgins. 
The steamer brings to off Worms ; the 
town is about 1 m. distant from the 
Rhine, which anciently washed its 
walls. It is partly concealed from view 
by trees. Inn on the Rhine, Rheinischer 
Hof, near the Crane. 



1. 2| Worms. — Inns: Post or Schwan; 
Weisses Ross. A little more than 8000 
inhab. (2500 Rom. Cath., 1000 Jews) 
is the actual amount of the pop, 
of Worms, which once contained 30,000. 
It still retains its old Walls, flanked at 
intervals by handsome and massive 



towers, probably of the 13th cent. This 
once important Imperial Free City is 
still venerable even in its decay from 
historical associations connected with it, 
such as few other cities in Europe can 
boast of. It was called by the Romans 
Augusta Vangionum and Borbetomagus. 
In the times succeeding their dominion 
it was the residence of many Frankish 
and Carlovingian kings ; Charlemagne 
himself was married here, and held, 
near Worms, those rude legislative 
assemblies of the Franks, called, from 
the month in which they were con- 
voked, Mai Lager (Champs de Mai). 

Worms was the seat of many Diets 
of the German Empire : two of them 
are particularly important in the his- 
tory of Europe ; that of 1495, which, 
by abolishing the right of private war 
(Faustrecht) , first established order in 
Germany; and that of 1521, when 
Luther appeared before the young 
Empr., Charles V., and the assembled 
princes, to declare his adhesion to the 
Reformed doctrines, which the Diet 
finally declared to be heretical. Since 
the infamous burning and demolition 
of Worms by the incendiary Melac 
(1689), the ruffian instrument of Louis 
XIV. and Louvois, the city has never 
regained its prosperity, 

The only fine edifice in the town is 
the Domkirche or Cathedral ; — a plain 
and massive building of red sandstone, 
begun 996, finished 1016, in the Byzan- 
tine or round-arched style. A part of 
the E. end fell down 1018, and the 
church was consecrated anew by Bp. 
Eppo, 1110, a fact which would seem 
to mark a renovation or reconstruction 
of the previous edifice. The pointed 
arch makes its appearance in the W. 
end of the nave, which is more modern. 
It has 2 towers at each end, and within 
has 2 choirs and 2 high altars, one for 
the chapter, the other for the laity. 
The chancel ends in a semiroctagon. 
The interior, 470 ft, long, has been re» 
paired in a very gaudy style, The side 
chapels date from the 14th and 15th 
cent, On the S, side is a magnificent 
pointed portal, whose sculptures deserve 
examination, date 1472, In the chapel of 
St. Nicholas are placed some remarkable 
mediaeval sculptures (date 1487), re- 

z3 



514 



ROUTE 102.— THE RHINE. WORMS. 



Sect. VIII. 



moved from the cloister, now destroyed : 
they represent, 1. the Annunciation; 
2. the Nativity ; 3. the Genealogical 
Tree of the Virgin; 4. the Descent 
from the Cross ; 5. the Resurrection. 
The traces of faded painting on the 
walls and piers are curious, as being 
among the earliest productions of Ger- 
man art. In the baptistery and chapel 
close to the S. door 1. are many grave- 
stones, with figures in relief, of good work. 

The red stone walls to the N. of the 
Dom are substructions of the ancient 
Bischofshof, destroyed by the French 
in 1 689, and again in 1794. In it was 
held the diet of 1521, at which Luther 
appeared before Charles V. Some have 
incorrectly supposed that this event 
occurred in the Rathhaus, which stood 
where the Lutheran church now stands, 
in the market-place, and in which a poor 
picture representing the Diet is hung up. 

The "W. end and choir of St. Paul's 
Ch. are interesting for the antiquity and 
beauty of their architecture. They date 
probably from the year 1016 ; the rest 
of the church is recent. 

The Synagogue is said to be more than 
800 years old, and certainly displays 
in its structure the style of the 11th 
cent. : 2 doorways, and a circular build- 
ing (Thora) for. holding the books of 
the law, deserve the architect's atten- 
tion. The Jews have been established 
in this spot from a very early period, 
and enjoyed privileges denied them in 
most other parts of Germany. 

The country round Worms was the 
favourite theme of the Minnesanger, 
who speak of it under the name of 
"Wonnegau (Land of Joy). It is partly 
the scene of the Nibelungenlied ; * and 
the island facing the Rheinischer Hof 

* This fine old German poem was written 
towards the litter end of the 12th century, but 
the traditions on which it is founded appear to 
have been handed down, probably in popular 
lays, from very remote times, and to have 
been common to all the tribes (German, Saxon, 
and Scandinavian) of the Teutonic race. No 
less than 20 poems of the Edda, which, as it 
has been satisfactorily shown, must have been 
composed prior to the year 863, contain the 
same tragical *tory of the mythic-heroic per- 
sonages who figure iu the Nibelungen. For a 
description of the frescoes painted by Schnorr to 
illustrate this German, or rather Teutonic 
Iliad, see Handbook for S. Germany, Rte. 166. 



is called Fosengarten, a name which 
often occurs in the Heldenbuch. 

Near Pfiffligheim stands Luther's Elm 
Tree, under which the reformer is" re- 
ported to have reposed on his way to 
the Diet, when, in reply to the warn- 
ings of friends who wished to deter him, 
he said that he " would go to "Worms, 
even though there were as many devils 
within its walls as there were tiles on 
its houses." At Hernsheim, about 2 
m. out of the town, are the Chateau and 
Park of the Dalberg family, and a church 
of the 14th cent., containing several of 
their monuments. 

N. B. — Travellers proceeding down 
the Rhine, and acquainted with its 
scenery between Mayence and Bingen, 
may vary their route in an agreeable 
manner, and avoid going twice over the 
same ground, by leaving the Rhine at 
"Worms and proceeding through an in- 
teresting country by Alzei (p. 510), 3 
Germ. m. to Kreuznach on the Nahe 
(p. 507), 3f Germ. m. — road excellent, 
but hilly. The beautiful scenery of the 
Nahe is described in Rte. 100 : they 
should ascend it as far as Oberstein, and 
may then either return to the Rhine at 
Bingen, or proceed on by Birkenfeld to 
Treves, whence they may descend the 
Moselle to Coblenz. 



As far as "Worms both banks of the 
Rhine belong to Darmstadt. A few 
miles above it commenee the territories 
of Baden on the rt. bank, and of Rhenish 
Bavaria on the 1., across which our road 
lies. The road passes — 1 . Frankenthal 
{Inn, Rother Lowe), originally a colony 
of Flemings, driven out of their country 
by religious persecution in 1562, who 
introduced manufactures not before 
known in Germany, and raised this 
small town by their industry to a state 
of great prosperity. It was held for 
some months in 1622-23 by the scanty 
English force under Sir Horace Yere, 
sent over by James I. to support the 
cause of his son-in-law the Elector 
Palatine : but neither in number nor in 
the skill of their commander were they 
fit to cope with a veteran general like 
Spinola, to whom and his army of 
" tough old blades" they were opposed, 
and they were accordingly obliged to 



Baden. 



ROUTE 102. — THE RHINE. MANNHEIM. 



515 



surrender the town to the Spaniards 
It has now 5000 inhah. A canal con- 
nects it with the Shine. At Griin- 
stadt, a few miles N.W. of Frankenthal, 
the painter Holbein is believed to have 
been born. 

2 1. Oggersheim. Tun, Pfalzer Hof. 

rt. The Neckar enters the Rhine 
ahout J m. helow Mannheim. A bridge 
of boats over the Ehine leads from (1.) 
Ludwigshafen, the beginning of a new 
town, into Mannheim. A Railway con- 
nects Ludwigshafen with Spires and 
with the coal-mines of Bexbach, in the 
neighbourhood of Saarbriick, by Kaiser- 
slautern and Homburg. (Ete. 103.) 
Ludwigshafen was much injured during 
the defence of Mannheim m the insur- 
rection of June 1849. The landing- 
place of the steamer is just below the 
bridge of boats, ~ m. distant from the 
town, where the bonding warehouses 
(Freihaferi), a handsome building by 
Hiibsch, have been erected at the water- 
side. 

1^ Mannheim. Inns: H. de 1' Eu- 
rope (dear), close to the landing-place 
of the steamers, with a noble Saal and 
100 bed-rooms of all sizes, from 1 fl. 
upwards (servants 24 kr. daily) ; La 
Cour du Palatinat (Pfalzer Hof), in the 
town, very good ; Russischer Hof ; 
Rheinischer Hof. 

The situation of this town, on the rt. 
bank of the Rhine, and between it and 
the Neckar, is low and somewhat damp. 
A high dyke protects it from inunda- 
tions. The Rhine here, at 317 Eng. m. 
from the sea, is 1200 ft. in breadth. 
Mannheim was formerly the capital of 
the Palatinate, and has about 24,000 
inhab. Nearly 300 English reside here, 
chiefly on account of the cheapness of 
living and of the agreeable society, to 
which the presence of the amiable 
Grand Duchess Stephanie and her court 
adds a charm. It was once strongly 
fortified, and was in consequence several 
times ruined and twice literally reduced 
to ashes and levelled with the dust by 
sieges and bombardments — first in the 
Thirty Years' "War, afterwards by the 
French in the war of the Orleans suc- 
cession. It did not exist as a town till 
after 1606, and, within a century, was 
twice rebuilt, after which it was again 



bombarded by the French in 1794, and 
by the Austrians in 1795 ; indeed, from 
the first moment of its existence it ap- 
pears to have been an object of struggle. 
The French general who took the town 
in 1689 called the townspeople together 
and informed them that it was the un- 
alterable determination of his master, 
Louis le Grand, to raze Mannheim with 
the ground ; but, as a special favour, he 
would intrust the work of destruction 
to themselves, and would allow them 20 
days to complete the work, As the 
inhab. could not bring themselves to 
put into execution this diabolical sen- 
tence, the duty was performed by the 
soldiers, who drove out the lingering 
tenants, set fire to the houses, blew up 
the fortifications and churches. During 
the siege of 1795 half of the palace was 
burnt, and only 14 houses remained un- 
injured — 26,000 cannon-balls and 1780 ' 
bombs were thrown. At length the 
French garrison of 9700 men surren- 
dered to General "Wurmser. Fortunately 
for its future welfare it is now defenceless, 
owing to the removal of its ramparts. 

To the cause stated above the modern 
town owes its present rectangular and 
monotonous regularity. It consists of 
11 straight streets, crossed by 10 other 
streets at right angles to them, and at 
equal distances, an arrangement which 
renders it difficult for a stranger to dis- 
tinguish one part of the town from 
another. " The streets are not named, 
and the system by which houses are 
identified is so singular that it merits 
explanation. Each block of houses is 
distinguished in the following manner : 
The town is divided into two parts by 
the great street leading from the palace 
to the suspension bridge over the 
Neckar. The first row of blocks 
of houses parallel to this street, on 
each side, is numbered 1 ; the second 
row of blocks of houses on each side, 
parallel to the first, is numbered 2, and 
so on. But taking the blocks in cross 
rows,on one side of the above-mentioned 
great street, the row nearest to the 
palace is lettered A, the second B, and 
so on ; and on the other side the street, 
the row nearest the palace is lettered 
L, the second M, and so on. Thus a 
letter and a figure are necessary to de-" 



516 



ROUTE 102. — MANNHEIM. SCHWETZINGEN. Sect. VIII. 



fine any block of houses. In each 
block the houses are numbered 1, 2, 3, 
&c. Thus in looking in the Mannheim 
Directory for a person's residence, you 
will find (for instance) C 3, 6. This 
means No. 6 in the block which is de- 
fined by the mark C 3. The letter C 
shows in which row of blocks it is as 
taken one way, and the figure 3 shows 
in which row of blocks it is as taken the 
other way." — G. B. A. In the public 
squares are fountains which want 
only water to render them useful as well 
as ornamental; indeed, good water is 
scarce here. The town is remarkable 
for its cleanliness. Go the calls it " Das 
freundliche, reinliche Mannheim." 

Mannheim does not possess many ob- 
jects of interest, and need not detain a 
traveller long. 

The principal building is the Palace, 
a huge structure of red sandstone, more 
remarkable for size than architecture, 
erected by the Elector Palatine Karl 
Philip, when he removed his court from 
Heidelberg and made Mannheim his 
capital (1720).. A Theatre in one wing, 
which was reduced to a mere shell by 
the Austrian bombardment, has been re- 
paired and rebuilt, A part of the palace 
is inhabited by the Dowager Grand 
Duchess of Baden, Stephanie, and 
another wing serves as a Museum to 
contain the Gallery of Paintings, the 
majority of which, except some specie 
mens of the Dutch school, are very 
mediocre ; a Collection of Plaster Casts, 
and a Cabinet of Natural History, with 
some good .specimens of minerals and 
fossils. The best part of all the Mann- 
heim collections were transferred to 
Munich in 1778. 

The Gardens behind the palace, end- 
ing in a raised terrace (Bheindamm) 
upon the brink of the Rhine, are a de- 
lightful walk. The Planken, a broad 
street, planted with trees, between the 
Heidelberg and Rhine gates, is another 
promenade of the inhab. The private 
gardens along the banks of the Neckar 
are a great ornament to the outskirts of 
the town. 

A pretty chain bridge has been thrown 
across the Neckar, 

If we except the Jesuits' Church, 
which, after all, is not of first-rate archi- 



tecture, and, though imposing, is over- 
loaded with marble inside, there is no 
remarkable building here. 

The Theatre is on a good footing. The 
orchestra, under Lachner, is not sur- 
passed in this part of Germany. Here 
Schiller's " Robbers" was first brought 
out in 1782. Opposite the principal 
entrance to the theatre is the house of 
Kotzebue, where he was assassinated by 
the mad student Sand ; the victim and 
murderer are both buried in the Lu- 
theran churchyard. Schiller lived on 
the Parade Platz, in the house called 
Zum Karlsberg. 

English Church Service on Sundays. 

The reading-room of the club called 
the Harmony, in the Planken, is thrown 
open to strangers propeily introduced. 

A very agreeable lounge here is the 
establishment of Messrs. Artaria and 
Co., where all the productions of the 
fine arts and literature in Germany and 
Italy are to be met with, and a tourist 
can supply himself with all sorts of maps, 
views, &c, indispensable on a foreign 
journey. M. A. has a fine collection of 
original paintings. 

[ Schwetzingen should be visited from 
Mannheim for the sake of the gardens. 
It is about 9 m. distant. Inns : Erb 
Prinz ; Pfalzer Hof ; Goldner Ochse. 
A small town of 2500 inhab. Its Cha- 
teau had been from early times a seat ' 
of the Electors Palatine, when the 
Elector Charles Theodore made it his 
summer residence in 1743, and em- 
ployed the 20 following years, and vast 
sums of money , in converting into an orna- 
mental garden a flat sandy desert, in- 
debted to nature for no favour but the 
very distant prospect of a picturesque 
chain of hills. Those who desire to see 
all the sights here may prolong their 
walk for 2 or 3 hrs, ; at any rate it is 
well to take a guide at the gate. The 
objects best worth notice are the Mosque, 
the temples of Mercury and Apollo, the 
Bath, the Roman aqueduct, and the 
Temple of Pan. The vista looking over 
the great basin towards the Yosges 
Mountains has the pleasing effect of a 
natural diorama. The Gardens them- 
selves are perhaps the finest in German v, 
laid out in the formal French stylo, 
carried to perfection by Le Notre* at 



Rhenish Bavaria, route 102.— spires, history. 



517 



.Versailles, with, straight hasins edged 
with stone, and ruffled by ever-spurting 
fountains, with prim parterres, peopled 
with statues, flanked by cropped hedges, 
and intersected by long avenues. They 
extend about 114 Eng. acres. The 
Botanic Garden, included within their 
circuit, contains a fine collection of Al- 
pine plants. The conservatories and 
the orangery are worth notice. 

The Chateau, originally a small hunt- 
ing-lodge, augmented from time to time 
by wings, orangeries, and other addi- 
tions to accommodate a court, is ho- 
noured with few and short visits from 
the reigning Grand Duke, and is not 
worth notice ; but the grounds are kept 
in good order, and well deserve a visit.] 

Eilwagen daily to Kreuznach in 7 
hrs. ; to Durkheim (Rte. 104) ; from 
Ludwigshafen, opposite Mannheim, 
several times a-day. 

Railroads to Heidelberg, 15 Eng. m. 
Trains in 1 hr. — to Frankfurt and Carls- 
ruhe (Rte. 105) ; from Ludwigshafen 
to Spires ; — toKaiserslautern,Homburg, 
andBexbach. (Rte. 103.) 

Steamers go several times a day to 
Mayence and Coblenz, and every day 
up to Strasburg. 

There is no inducement for the tra- 
veller by land to follow the Rhine above 
Mannheim, as he may now visit Spires 
by railway from Ludwigshafen. The 
traveller proceeding southward had 
better proceed by Heidelberg along the 
Baden railway. (Rte. 105.) 

Railway from Ludwigshafen to Spires, 
— trains in ~ hr. After leaving the 
stat. the Castle of Heidelberg is seen in 
the distance, under a red scar on the 
hill side of the Kaiserstuhl. 

Mutterstadt Stat. 

Schifferstadt Stat. Here the branch 
railway to Spires diverges from the line 
which runs "W". to Neustadt, to Kaisers- 
lautern, and Bexbach. (Rte. 103.) 

1. Spires (Germ. Speier) Stat. — 
Inns : Post (Wittelsbacher Hof ), good ; 
Adler. This ancient and venerable city, 
one of the oldest, and originally one of 
the chief, cities in Germany, lies upon 
the 1. bank of the Rhine. Its popula- 
tion, which in the 14th cent, amounted 
to 27,000, is now reduced to about 9000, 
and it is in all other respects a mere 



shadow of its former self. It received 
from the Romans the name Civitas 
Nemetun, or Noviomagus ; but in their 
time it was only a fortified outpost on 
the Rhine to resist the attacks of the 
neighbouring Allemanni. Charlemagne, 
however, and the Emprs. of Germany 
who followed him, especially those of 
the Franconian and Swabian lines, made 
it their chosen place of residence and 
the seat of the Germanic Diet, bestow- 
ing upon it, at the same time, the pri- 
vileges of a Free City of the Empire, 
which made it the centre of a flourishing 
trade, and poured wealth into its walls. 
The Charter (Freibrief), conferred by 
Henry V. in 1111, gave to its citizens a 
monopoly of the carrying trade up and 
down the Rhine, and entitled them to 
destroy any baronial castle which might 
be built within 3 Germ. m. of their 
gates — an enactment intended effectually 
to secure them from troublesome and 
rapacious neighbours. The history of 
Spires during the period of the middle 
ages is an alternate record of Imperial 
festivities and courtly show, and of scenes 
of tumult and violence within its walls, 
and deadly feuds and combats without. 
Its citizens, in those unquiet times, 
were as well versed in the use of arms 
as in the arts of trade. At one time 
they were called upon to issue from their 
walls in order to chastise the lawless 
rapacity of some feudal baron, who had 
waylaid their merchants and pillaged 
their property on the high road, and 
who often paid for his insolence by hav- 
ing his castle burnt about his ears and 
levelled with the ground ; at another 
they were engaged in a quarrel with a 
neighbouring town, or in a feud with 
their bishop, or even with the Empr. 
himself. On several occasions armies of 
20,000 men, composed of the levies of 
more than 100 different barons and 
towns, each marshalled under their own 
banners, in vain laid siege to Spires, 
being repulsed by the bravery of the 
citizens. Now and then fortune de- 
clared against them, and they suffered 
from the plundering inroads of hostile 
armies. In the 14th cent, the city 
maintained in its pay an army of knights 
and soldiers, to whom it partly intrusted 
its defence, and whom it engaged to 



518 



EOUTE 102. SPIRES. CATHEDKAL. 



Sect. VIII. 



fight its battles. At length the Imperial 
edict, which abolished the right of pri- 
vate war, in 1530, restored peace to 
Germany. The Imperial Chamber, 
Reichs-Kammergericht, by which its 
enactments were enforced, and all in- 
fringements of them punished, was 
established at Spires. This tribunal, the 
paramount court of appeal in Gi-ermany, 
existed here 200 years, until removed to 
Wetzlar 1689. 

The trade and prosperity of Spires 
began to decay in the 17th cent. ; but 
the final blow and the greatest injury 
was inflicted upon it by the atrocities of 
the French under Louis XIV., during 
the Orleans Succession AVar, called by 
the Germans " Mordbrenner Krieg." In 
1689 the town was taken by the French, 
who shortly after issued a proclamation 
to the citizens, commanding them to 
quit it, with their wives and children, 
within the space of 6 days, and to be- 
take themselves into Alsace, Lorraine, 
or Burgundy, but upon pain of death 
not to cross the Rhine. To carry into 
execution this tyrannic edict, a provost- 
marshal, at the head of 40 assistant 
executioners, marched into the town ; 
they bore about them the emblems of 
their profession, in the shape of a gal- 
lows and wheel, embroidered on their 
dress. On the appointed day the miser- 
able inhabitants were driven out by 
beat of drum, like a flock of sheep. The 
French soldiers followed them, after 
having plundered everything in the de- 
serted town, which was then left to the 
tender mercies of executioners and in- 
cendiaries. In obedience to the com- 
mands of Montclair, the French com- 
mander, trains of combustibles were laid 
in the houses and lighted, and in a few 
hours the seven-and-forty streets of 
Spires were in a blaze. The conflagra- 
tion lasted 3 days and 3 nights ; but the 
destruction of the town did not cease 
even with this. Miners were incessantly 
employed in blowing up the houses, 
walls, fountains, and convents, so that 
the whole might be levelled with the 
dust and rendered xminhabitable. The 
Cathedral was dismantled, the graves of 
the Emprs. burst open and their re- 
mains scattered. For many years Spires 
lay a desolate heap of rubbish, until at 



last the impoverished inhabitants re- 
turned gradually to seek out the sites of 
their ancient dwellings. Since that 
time the town, although rebuilt, has 
never raised its head. 

This, however, was not the last of the 
calamities which this ill-fated city was 
destined to endure, and from foes of the 
same nation. In 1794 the revolution- 
ary army under Custine burst upon the 
town, and, after 6 different assaults, 
carried it by storm, and repeated all the 
wanton acts of atrocity and cruelty 
which their predecessors had enacted a 
century before. Previous to the siege 
of 1683 the town had 5 suburbs en- 
closed within ramparts, 13 gates, and 
64 towers of defence provided with ar- 
tillery. After twice suffering desola- 
tion so complete, it can hardly be ex- 
pected to display many marks of its 
antiquity and former splendour in its 
buildings. Since 1816, however, when 
it came into the possession of the King 
of Bavaria, much has been done to re- 
pair or restore the little that remains. 

The Dom or Cathedral, whose twin 
towers present a noble appearance from 
the Rhine, is almost the only edifice 
which has bid defiance to the attempts 
to destroy it ; the French undermined 
it, and tried to blow it up ; but the 
venerable structure remained unshaken 
by the explosion. In point of dimen- 
sions it is perhaps the most stupendous 
building in the Romanesque style ex- 
isting. The 2 tall pointed towers and 
the semicircular termination at the E. 
end are the sole surviving portions of 
the original edifice, founded in 1027 by 
Conrad the Salic, on the spot where 
a Roman temple of Venus, and after- 
wards a Christian temple built by 
Dagobert II., had stood before. The 
edifice, as it now stands, certainly arose 
after 1165, when a conflagration de- 
stroyed the earlier building. All that 
was consumable in the "W. end, cupola, 
nave, and choir, was burnt by the 
French, 1689, although they had pro- 
mised to respect the building, and had 
thereby induced the citizens to fill it 
with their valuable goods and chattels, 
which, after being plundered by the 
spoilers, served as fuel to assist in con- 
suming it. 



Mheniah Bavaria, route 102.— spires, phillipsburg. 



519 



The interior is severe in its style of 
architecture, and without ornament, hut 
the width and height of the -nave strike 
the beholder with awe. In the King's 
choir, between the nave and the choir, 
is the Imperial Vault, in which 8 Em- 
perors of Germany were buried ; among 
them Henry III., IV., andV., Rudolph 
of Habsburg, Adolph of Nassau, and 
Albert of Austria. Since their graves 
were sacrilegiously broken open and 
plundered by the French in 1689, it is 
difficult to say who remains behind. 
The Empr. Charles VI., the last of the 
male line of Habsburg, caused search 
to be made for the bones of his an- 
cestors; some were found and rein- 
terred, but to whom they belonged was 
not ascertained. The Duke of Nassau 
has caused the mutilated gravestone of 
his ancestor Adolph to be replaced by 
a modern monument by Ohmacht ; it 
consists of a kneeling figure of the Em- 
peror in armour, on a Byzantine sar- 
cophagus of black Nassau marble. 
Another monumental statue of Rudolph 
of Habsburg has been erected by King 
Lewis of Bavaria ; executed by Schwan- 
thaler of Munich. Numerous judicious 
restorations have been made by the Ba- 
varian government ; and the church, 
which was a ruin in 1816, has been re- 
opened for public worship since 1824. 
The frescoes by Schraudolph are among 
the finest modern works in Germany. 
The Crypt, under the choir, supported 
by short massy columns, is very curi- 
ous. Traces of the mines formed by 
the French in their ineifectual attempt 
to blow up the building may still be 
perceived here; and here is placed 
the original gravestone of Rudolph 
of Habsburg, bearing his effigy care- 
fully copied from the life. The 
font dates from the 9 th or 10th 
cent. In the Sacristy are a set of 
priest's robes of the 14th cent., beauti- 
fully embroidered with subjects from 
Scripture, figures of the apostles, &c. ; 
they were brought from Aschaffenburg. 
The treasures of the sacristy disappeared 
at the Revolution. In the ruined 
Chapel of St. Afra, on the N. side of 
the building, the remains of the Empr. 
Henry IV. were laid by his faithful 
subjects, the citizens of Worms, and 



remained 5 years unburied, until the 
removal of the papal ban of excom- 
munication opened for him the Imperial 
vault. The Dom is surrounded by 
agreeable pleasure-grounds extending 
down to the Rhine. 

In the Hall of Antiquities, near the 
Dom, are deposited various Roman re- 
mains found in Rhenish Bavaria, chiefly 
at Rheinzabern ; they consist of pottery 
of all kinds, elegant vases and dishes, 
with the moulds in which they were 
shaped, bas-reliefs in stone and terra- 
cotta, glass vessels, lamps, votive tablets, 
spear-heads, sword-blades, a good statue 
of Mercury in bronze, and the eagle of 
a Roman legion. 

One of the few surviving relics of the 
old city is a colossal tower and gateway, 
called Alt Portel, between the town and 
the Landau suburb ; it is of consider- 
able antiquity. 

A ruined and unsightly wall, near the 
Protestant church (built 1717), is the 
only remaining relic of the Retscher, or 
Imperial palace, in which 49 Diets 
were held. The name comes (it is 
said) from the Bohemian "Hradschin" 
(see Prague), given to it by the Pro- 
testants of that nation (?). 

It will be remembered that the 
" protest " of the reformed princes and 
cities against the decree of the Diet 
held here in 1529 gave rise to the 
name of Protestant. 

There are pleasant walks round the 
town. 

Strangers can be introduced by the 
innkeepers to read the newspapers in 
the club called Harmonic. 

A good road leads to Landau, and the 
Castle of Trifels, the prison of Richard 
Cceur-de-Lion, described in Rte. 104. 



Continuing the voyage up the Rhine, 
above Spires, we pass (rt.) Phillips- 
burg, named after Philip von Sotern, 
Archbp. of Spires, who founded it at 
the beginning of the Thirty Years' War ; 
it was formerly a fortress of the empire, 
and makes an important figure in the 
campaigns of Turenne. Its works 
were razed in 1800. Marshal Berwick 
was killed under its walls, 1734. Large 
and unwholesome morasses, below the 



520 



ROUTE 103. — MANNHEIM TO SAARBRUCKEN. Sect. VIII. 



level of the Rhine, overspread the coun- 
try about 

2 1. Germersheim. — Inn, a filthy 
hole, not fit for a dog ; passengers who 
may chance to stop here for the night 
had better remain on board the steamer. 
It is a mile distant from the Rhine. 
This is a miserable small town of 2000 
ihhab., of which a barrack and a church 
spire rising above the ramparts are 
alone visible from the river. It was 
founded by the Empr. Eudolph of 
Habsburg, who died here, 1291. It 
is being converted into a Fortress of the 
German Confederation, and strong mi- 
litary defences have been in progress 
since 1834. 

Bridge of boats over the Rhine here. 

[The shortest road hence to Strasburg 
runs along the 1. bank of the Rhine, but 
at a little distance from it, by Rhein- 
zabern, 2 Germ. m. ; Lauterberg, 2 
Germ. m. ; Beinheim, 2 French p. ; 
Drusenheim, 2 p. ; "Wanzenau, 2 p. ; 
Strasburg, 1-J p. : but it is not provided 
with post-horses ; so that it is better 
to go from Germersheim to Landau, 2^ 
Germ, m., or to cross over to the rt. 
bank of the river.] 

r. Leopoldshafen (formerly called 
Schrock), a poor village without proper 
accommodation for travellers. 

rt. Knielingen {Inn, Zum Rhein- 
bad) ; here the steamers land passengers 
bound for Carlsruhe, 5 m. off. Boat 
bridge here. rt. Iffelsheim is 6 m. from 
Baden. 

1. Fort Louis, a fortress raised by 
Vauban, on an island, taken and razed 
by the Austrians 1793. The spire of 
Strasburg is visible from this (27 m. 
off) in clear weather ; and perhaps the 
best view of it is from the Rhine, higher 
up. Like Mt. Blanc, its height is not 
appreciated when you are near it. 

A small quantity of gold is found in 
the sand and gravel of the Rhine in 
this part of its course. A few persons 
occupy themselves in gold- washing, but 
the gain is small and very precarious. 
It occurs chiefly along the banks. 

1. Strasburg. InRte. 107. 

1. Below the bridge of Kehl a new 
canal opens into the Rhine, connecting 
it with the 111, and enabling steamers 
to penetrate into the heart of Strasburg, 



near to the theatre.- Observe the spire 
as you enter the canal. Larger vessels 
stop at the bridge of boats which con- 
nects Germany to France, near to the 
French custom-house, about 2 m. from 
the centre of the town. 



ROUTE 103. 

MANNHEIM (LUDWIGSHAFEN) TO SAAR- 



LAUTERN RAILWAY. 

This Railway — the Pfalzer-Ludwigs- 
eisenbahn — was opened 1847 - 48. 
Terminus at Ludwigshafen on 1. bank 
of the Rhine, opposite Mannheim. 
Trains 3 or 4 times a day, in 5-^ hrs. 
When the Railway from Paris to Metz 
is completed this will be the great line 
of communication between Paris and 
Stuttgart — Munich and Vienna. A 
traveller familiar with the Rhine may 
agreeably vary his route by going from 
Mannheim to Treves, and descending 
the Moselle. 

Mutterstadt Stat. 

Schifferstadt Stat. Here a branch 
Railway diverges (1.) to Spires. 

Bohl Stat. 

Hasloch Stat. 

Neustadt Stat. See Rte. 104. The 
Railway now enters the Haardt moun- 
tains, and penetrates for 6 m. up the 
narrow winding valley of the Speier- 
bach, through whose red sandstone rocks 
11 short tunnels have been driven. 

Frankenstein Stat. 

Kaiserslautern Stat. ] 

Landstuhl Stat. >See Rte 101. 

Bruchmuhlbach Stat. J 

The road quits the Bavarian territory 
and enters that of Prussia. 

Homburg Stat. (See p. 511.) Omnibus 
to Zweibrucken in 1 hr. A productive 
coalfield is reached near 

Bexbach Stat. 

Neunkirchen Stat. 

Saarbriicken to 

Treves. (See Rtes. 100, 100a.) 

ROUTE 104. 

MANNHEIM TO ZWEIBRUCKEN (DEUX 
FONTS), THROUGH NEUSTADT, LANDAU, 
AND ANNWEILER. 

15 Germ. m. = 69 Eng. m. 



Wieniah Bavaria, route 104. — durkheim. neustadt. 



521 



Railway to Neustadt in 1 hr. (See 
Rte. 103.) Thence Eilwagen daily. 

The circle of the Rhine (Iihein Kreis) 
includes much pleasing scenery among 
the chains of the Haardt and Vosges 
mountains, and many old towns and 
castles, interesting from their history. 
The following route, not much traversed 
hitherto hy English travellers, lays open 
some of the most interesting objects 
in this part of the country, and will 
conduct to the prison of Richard Cceur- 
de-Lion, an object of interest for all 
Englishmen. They must not expect, 
however, to meet with a good road, or 
very capital accommodation. 

If the traveller keeps the post-road 
he will follow that from Mannheim to 
Mayence as far as 

Itj Oggersheim (p. 515). 

2 Durkheim. — Inn, Vier Jahrs- 
zeiten, good. This town, of 5500 inhab., 
was once the residence of the Princes of 
Leiningen-Hardenburg, whose palace 
was burnt by the French, 1794; it 
was originally a strong fortress, but its 
works have long since been razed ; it is 
now chiefly remarkable for its agree- 
able situation at the foot of the hills on 
the skirts of the plain of the Rhine, and 
at the entrance of the valley of the Isen- 
ach, up which runs the road to Kaisers- 
lautern, and for its pleasing environs. 
The chief beauties of the Rheinpfalz 
begin at Durkheim, on the borders of 
the Haardtgebirge. The proper way 
— indeed the only one — to explore its 
heights and valleys is on foot, guided 
by a good map — such as Reizmann's 
map of Germany, sheets 199 and 218, 
price 15 Sgr. each. 

"Within a short distance lie the salt- 
works of Phillipshall. The summit of 
the nearest height, the Kastanienberg, 
is crowned by the Heidenmauer (Pa- 
gan's Wall), a rampart of loose stones 
8 to 10 ft. high, 60 or 70 wide at the 
base, enclosing a space of about 2 m, 
The Romans are said to have built it to 
keep in check the barbarians : and 
Attila is reported to have passed the 
winter in it, after having expelled the 
Romans, and when on his way to take 
possession of Rome itself. It has 
given a name to a novel of Cooper, 
the American. Near it is the Devil's 



Stone, a natural rock, bearing the im- 
pression of a gigantic paw, on which 
the pagans are said to have sacrificed. 
The view from it over the plain of the 
Palatinate, along the Rhine and Neckar 
as far as Heidelberg, and the near 
prospect of fertile and industrious val- 
leys, is highly pleasing. 

At the entrance of the Isenachthal, 
at the top of a hill nearly encircled 
by the stream, stand the ruins of the 
Abbey of Limburg, with its vast church, 
founded in 1030, in the style of the 
Dom of Spires, and destroyed by the 
Swedes in 1632. The height on which 
it stands commands fine views, and is 
now converted into gardens. A crypt 
and part of the cloister remain. Within 
sight of the ruins of the abbey are those 
of Ilardenburg, the castle of the Counts 
of Leiningen, its greatest enemies, who 
were engaged in constant feuds with 
the monks, and burnt the abbey in the 
15th cent. One of the Raugrafs of 
Hardenburg, having made the abbot his 
prisoner, built his head into the wall of 
the castle, with his face towards the 
abbey, that he might see the confla- 
gration. 

The road to Neustadt passes through 
Wachenheim, Forst, and Deidesheim, 
(Inn, Baierischer Hof), all famous for 
the wines produced in the neighbour- 
ing vineyards. It is a most delightful 
ride. Geologists will remark with in- 
terest the eruption of basalt, proceeding 
from the mountain called Pechstein- 
Kopf : the basalt assumes the shape of 
balls. 

2 Neustadt an der Haardt. — Inns : 
Post ; Goldener Lowe. This town of 
8000 inhab. is old and uninviting 
within, but its situation at the foot of 
the Haardt mountains is delightful. 
Its Church dates from the 10th cent., 
and contains curious monuments of the 
Pfalzgraves. In the fore-court, called the 
Paradise, some remains of ancient fresco 
paintings may be traced. The neigh- 
bourhood abounds in ruined castles, 
many of which were reduced to their 
present condition in the Peasants' War 
(1525). 

Railroad to the Rhine at Mannheim. 

On the hill above the town rise the 
ivy-clad ruins of the Castle Winzingen, 



522 



ROUTE 104. — LANDAU. ANNWEILEE. 



Sect. VIII. 



called Haardter Schlosschen (originally 
the summer residence of the Electors 
Palatine, now attached to a modern 
villa), and Wolfsburg, destroyed in the 
Thirty Years' War. It commands a 
fine view, extending as far as Heidel- 
berg castle. About 2 m. S. of the town 
is the Castle of Hambach, another ruin. 
It was built by the Emp. Henry IV., 
who is said to have set out from hence 
on his disgraceful pilgrimage to Rome 
barefoot, in 1077, to appease the anger 
of the haughty Pope Hildebrand. The 
view from the ruins is fine, but in- 
ferior to that from the Madenburg. It 
now belongs to the present King of 
Bavaria, to whom it was presented on 
his marriage, when Crown Prince, by 
the Rheinkreis. He began to restore 
and rebuild it under the name of Max- 
burg. 

Near JNeustadt very extensive quar- 
ries are excavated in the Buntersand- 
stein and Musckelkalk ; the latter 
abounds in fossils. 

The road passes Edenkoben (Inn, 
Schaf, good), a town of 4500 inhab., 
surrounded by vineyards, producing 
a wine of inferior quality. Near at 
hand may be seen the ch. and tower of 
the ruined convent Heilsbruck. 

2. Landau. — Inns : Schwan ; Schaf 
(Sheep). This strong fortress of the 
Germanic Confederation is occupied by 
a garrison of Bavarians, and numbers 
6000 inhab. It is situated on the 
Queich, which fills its fosse with water. 
It has been an object of contest in 
every great European war from the 
15th cent., and consequently its his- 
tory is nothing but a succession of 
sieges, blockades, bombardments, cap- 
tures, and surrenders. During the 
Thirty Years' War it was taken 8 times, 
by the troops of Count Mansfeldt, by 
the Spaniards, Swedes, Imperialists, 
and French. In the 17th cent, it fell 
into the hands of the French, was for- 
tified by Vauban, and was considered 
impregnable until 1702, when it was 
taken by Margrave Lewis of Baden. 
From 1713 to 1815 it remained in the 
hands of the French. It stood a siege 
of 9 months in 1793, in the course of 
which 30,000 shells, &c, were thrown 
into it. In the following year the pow- 



der magazine blew up, and the bell of 
the Rathhaus was carried by the explo- 
sion as far as the village of Godramstein, 
where it was dug up in a meadow some 
years afterwards. The gates of the for- 
tress are shut at an early hour. 

An agreeable excursion may be made 
to the Madenburg, near Eschbach (Giin- 
ter's Inn), the most perfect castle in 
the Rheinpfalz, which long was the 
property of the Archbishops of Spires, 
ruined by the French 1680. " The view 
from it is the finest in the district. A 
guide should be engaged at Eschbach 
to cross the hills to Trrfels, 6 m. to the 
E. The walk from it through the 
woods to Annweiler, taking Trrfels by 
the way, is about 8 m. A league from 
Landau, at Gleisweiler, is a hydro- 
therapic establishment kept by Dr. 
Schneider. 

The post-road from Landau to Zwei- 
briicken is good. It runs up the pretty 
valley of the Queich, a beautiful pass 
of the Yosges, to 



1^ Annweiler. 



-Inn, Post. This is 



a town of 2600 inhab., on the Queich. 
The ruined castle of Trifels, memo- 
rable as the prison of Richard Camr-de- 
Lion; is 5 m. distant. It is now a total 
ruin ; one square tower alone remains 
in a tolerably perfect state to attest its 
former strength ; but the subterranean 
dungeon, in which, according to tra- 
dition, he was confined, and watched 
night and day by guards with drawn 
swords, is still pointed out. After 
being captured by his treacherous ene- 
my, Leopold of Austria, on his return 
from the Holy Land, Richard was sold 
by him for 30,000 marks of silver to the 
Emp. Henry VI., who basely detained 
him a prisoner from 1192 to 1194. It 
was probably beneath these walls that 
the song of the faithful minstrel Blon- 
del first succeeded in discovering the 
prison of his master, by procuring the 
vocal response from the royal trou- 
badour. In 1193 his shameless jailor, 
the Emp., brought Richard in chains 
before the Diet at Hagenau, to answer 
the charge of the murder of Conrad of 
Montferrat, which he repelled with 
such manly and persuasive eloquence, 
and proved so clearly his innocence, 
that the Diet at once acquitted him, 



Rhenish Bavaria, route 105. — frankftjrt to basle. 



523 



and ordered his chains to be knocked 
off. In 1194 he was released from 
Trifels in consideration of a ransom of 
130,000 marks of silver. 

The castle of Trifels stands on the 
summit of a singular mountain of 
sandstone (Buntersandstein) called the 
Sonnenberg, 1422 ft. above the sea- 
level. It was a favourite residence of 
the German emperors, and must have 
been a place of great magnificence as 
well as strength. Frederick Barba- 
rossa, and many of his predecessors and 
successors, held their court 'here, and 
the Regalia of the empire were depo- 
sited within its walls for security. It 
was also used as a state prison for many 
unfortunate captives besides Richard of 
England. It has remained a ruin 
ever since the Thirty Years' War, when 
it was taken by the Swedes ; but it has 
something imposing even in its present 
state. The walls of the donjon are 
very thick, and 40 ft. high. The cha- 
pel has been stripped, and the mar- 
ble pillars removed from it to the 
ch. of Annweiler. An agreeable path 
leads up from the town to the castle, 
1^ hr. walk, whence the view is very 
pleasing ; two of the neighbouring 
heights are also crowned with castles. 

Annweiler contains nothing remark- 
able, but the scenery of the valley of 
the Queich, for 12 m. above it, should 
not be left unseen. The scenery be- 
tween Annweiler and Dahn is particu- 
larly interesting from the extraordinary 
forms assumed by the sandstone rocks 
(Buntersandstein), which have been 
split and fissured in all directions. At 
Willgartswiesen (Inn, Lamm ; good 
and cheap) is a pretty new Ch. with 
twin towers. A walk of 2 hrs. by 
Hauenstein, with a guide, brings you 
to Dahn [Inn, Bitter St. Georg), near 
which rises the overhanging rock 
called Jungfernsprung. Dahn may be 
visited by a slight detour on the way 
to Pirmascns ; the distance is about 
15 m. 

2 Kaltenbach. 

1^ Pirmascns (Inn, Post, Lamm), a 
town of 5000 inhab. 

1\ Zweibriicken (French, Deux 
Ponts). — Inns : Post ; Zweibriicker 
Hof. A town of 7300 inhab., in a 



very picturesque situation, once the 
capital of the duchy of Zweibriicken, 
or Deux Ponts. The dukes resided 
in the Palace, partly destroyed by the 
French, and the remains now converted 
into a Catholic ch. The name of this 
place is supposed to be derived from 
the two bridges leading across the river 
Erbach to the palace. The Princi- 
pality once belonged to the crown of 
Sweden, but fell by inheritance to the 
King of Bavaria, to whom it now be- 
longs. The series of the Classics 
known as "The Bipont Edition" was 
printed here by a society of learned 
men in 1779. 

Eilwagen daily to Carlsruhe. 

Zweibriicken is 1^ Germ. m. distant 
from Homburg, which is on the high 
road from Mayence to Metz, and on the 
Mannheim and Bexbach (Saarbriicker) 
railway. (Rte. 101.) 

ROUTE 105. 

FRANKFURT TO BASLE, BY DARMSTADT, 
HEIDELBERG, CARLSRUHE, AND FREI- 
BURG. — RAILWAY. 

From Frankfurt to Heidelberg or 
Mannheim in 3 hrs. by the M'ain- 
Nekar Eisenbahn. — 101 Germ. m. = 46£ 
Eng. m. 

Heidelberg to Haltingen Stat. 4 m. 
from Basle, in 9 hrs., by the Badische 
Staatsbahn. — 34 Germ. m. =156^ Eng. 
m. 

Terminus in Frankfurt outside the 
GaUus Thor. 

The line crosses the Main at Frank- 
furt by a new bridge, and passes 1. on 
the height the watch-tower of Sachsen- 
hausen, whence the view over Frank- 
furt, the Main, the distant Taunus, and 
the immediate foreground of neat villas 
and vineyards is very pleasing. At 
Sachsenhausen the railway to Offenbach 
turns off to the E. 

Langen Stat. The country, as far as 
Darmstadt, is flat and uninteresting. 

Darmstadt Stat. — Inns : Darm- 
sfadter Hof ; Traube (Bunch of 
Grapes). Kohlers, near the railway 
stat., outside the Rheinthor, is a 
handsome building. Darmstadt, the 
capital of the Grand Duchy of Hesse 
Darmstadt, the residence of the Grand 
Duke, and seat of the government and 



524 



ROUTE 105. — DARMSTADT. 



Sect. VIII. 



chambers, lias a pop. of 22,000 (chiefly 
Protestants). It is a dull uninteresting 
town, which need not detain the tra- 
veller long. The appearance of tor- 
pidity is increased by the extent of 
surface over which it is spread. The 
streets are straight and very wide, the 
squares numerous ; and many of the 
houses are built singly, with intervals 
between them. The old town, with its 
dark and confined streets, is very pro- 
perly kept in the background, and 
none of the great thoroughfares pass 
through it. Near the end of the Rhein- 
strasse, leading from the railway, rises 
a Column, 134 ft. high, surmounted 
by a statue of the Grand Duke Louis, 
by Schwanthaler. 

The Catholic Ch. built by Holler, a 
native architect, is worth notice. Its 
exterior is of brick ; the interior, a ro- 
tunda, 173 ft. in diameter and 123 ft. 
high, surrounded by pillars, 50 ft. high, 
is imposing, though simple. 

The Grand Duke lives in a New 
Palace of no great architectural preten- 
sions, next door to the Traube Hotel. 

The Old Palace (Altcs Schloss) has 
been fitted up as a residence for the 
Hereditary Grand Duke (Erb- Gross 
Herzog). It is a structure of various 
ages, from the 16th to the 18th; still 
surrounded by a dry ditch, now con- 
verted into a shrubbery and garden. It 
contains likewise the Museum of Paint- 
ings and of Natural History. Among 
the 700 pictures which fill the gallery, 
the following seem best worth notice : — 
The Purification of the Virgin by 
William of Cologne, sometimes called 
William Calf, a rare master. — Schoreel, 
the Death of the Virgin. — L. Crananch, 
portrait of Albert of Brandenburg, 
Archbp. of Mayence, as St. Jerome 
with his lion ; and of Luther and his 
Wife. — Portraits of Louis XIV. and 
XV., Cardinal Mazarin, Maria Lec- 
zinsky, Marie Antoinette, Cardinal 
Fleury, and Madame du Barry, by 
French artists. — In the Dutch School : 
Schalken, portrait of William III. of 
England. — Vandyk, Virgin and Child ; 
sketch of the portrait of Lord Pem- 
broke.— P. Potter (?), Cow and Herd, 
with a horn. — Eckhout, a Man's Head. 
■ — Tenters, Peasants. — P. de Hooge, 



Dutchman and his Wife. — Rembrandt, 
portrait of his Second Wife.— Italian 
School : P. Veronese, sketch of the great 
picture in the Louvre of the Marriage 
in Cana. — Titian (?), a Venus (doubt- 
ful). — Velasquez, a Child in a white 
frock. — Domenichino, David and Na- 
than. — Raphael (?), St. John in the 
Wilderness, varying slightly from the 
paintings of the same subject at Flo- 
rence, and in the Stafford gallery ; the 
Archangel Michael. St. Genoveva by 
a modern German artist, Steinbruck. 
There is -some very curious painted 
glass in this gallery, and numerous an- 
tique ivory carvings, enamels, &c. " In 
the Collection of Coins are many of the 
thin and barbarous Bracteatse of the 
middle ages." — F. S. 

Museum of Natural History. The 
most valuable and interesting part of 
this collection are the fossils, found in 
the neighbourhood of the Rhine, such 
as remains of the whale and elephant, 
some from the bed of the Rhine : seve- 
ral very perfect skulls, and numerous 
other bones of rhinoceros from Oppen- 
heim ; of Sus antiquus and Mastodon 
from Eppelsheim : numerous perfect 
jaws and other remains of the Deinothe- 
rium, an extinct amphibious animal, 
equalling the elephant in size, and 
feeding like the Dugong upon herbs 
and weeds growing in the water. 
These unequalled specimens were 
found in sandpits at Eppelsheim, near 
Alzei, along with marine shells. The 
fossils of this museum have been de- 
scribed in a work published by Dr. 
Kaup. The Palace also contains a 
good Public Library of 200,000 vols. ; 
the inhabitants of the town are allowed 
to take books home. 

The Theatre (Hof-Opernhaus), near 
the Palace, was built in 1819 from the 
designs of Moller. 

Near the theatre is the Excrcier 
Haus (Drilling House), a sort of 
large riding-school. It was built for 
the pmq>ose of drilling the garrison 
under cover in bad weather, and is re- 
markable for the great size of its roof, 
157 ft. broad, and 319 ft. long ; con- 
structed, it is said, by a common car- 
penter, after architects of pretension 
had declared the task impossible. The 



H. Darmstadt. 



ROUTE 105.— ODENWALD. 



525 



building now serves as a depot for 
artillery. 

The Gardens of the Palace (Bosquet, 
or Herrngarten) are very prettily laid 
out, but sadly neglected; one lofty white 
poplar is remarkable ; within thern is 
the grave of Margravine Henrietta 
Caroline, great-grandmother of the 
present King of Prussia. The spot was 
chosen by herself in her lifetime, and 
Frederick the Great engraved upon her 
urn the words, " Sexu fcemina, ingenio 
vir." 

The landlord of the inn will intro- 
duce the traveller to the Casino club. 
The House of Commons of the duchy 
assembles under the same roof, and, 
at particular seasons, balls, concerts, 
and assemblies take place in it. 

There is very little commerce at 
Darmstadt ; the inhabitants depend in 
a great measure on the court. A mile 
or two out of the town is the preserve, 
where wild boars are kept for the ducal 
chasse. Strangers are often taken in 
the evening to see the animals fed. 

• Eilwagen daily to Mayence (4 1 Germ, 
m. in 3~ hrs.), by Gross-Gerau, cross- 
ing the Main by a ferry opposite 
Castel. 

Eberstadt Stat. A little beyond this 
(1.) is the ruined castle of Frankenstein. 

The picturesque district called the 
Odenwald (forest of Odin) begins a 
few m. S. of Darmstadt, not far from 
this station. It lies to the E. of the 
railroad and of the high road to Hei- 
delberg, and some of its most inter- 
esting scenes, particularly the Melibo- 
cus, may be visited on the way thither. 
The entire excursion may not suit the 
taste or convenience of all travellers ; but 
the ascent of the Melibocus mountain 
should be omitted by none, as it cannot 
fail of affording gratification by its fine 
panoramic view. 

[A very good but hilly road leads 
from Darmstadt to Heidelberg, through 
the heart of the Odenwald, amid scenery 
of great interest. The stats, are Brens- 
bach, Erbach (see p. 526), and Hirs- 
chom. The distance, 55 m. The best 
sleeping place is Michelstadt, but as 
the Inn (Lion) is not good it is better 
to push on.] 

The Railroad, for the greater part 



of the way, runs near the old post-road 
from Darmstadt to Heidelberg, which 
is celebrated for its beauty. It is called 
Bergstrasse (mountain road, from the 
Latin strata moniana, although, in fact, 
perfectly level), because it runs along 
the base of a range of hills, which 
form the E. boundary of the valley of 
the Rhine. Its chief beauty arises 
from the fertility and high cultivation 
of the district it overlooks, rich in its 
luxuriant vegetation of vines and maize, 
enlivened by glimpses of the Rhine, 
and bounded by the outline of the 
Vosges mountains in France. (1.) The 
wooded and vine-covered range of 
mountains, with their old castles, form- 
ing the boundary of the Odenwald, 
runs parallel with the railroad and at 
a short distance from it ; rt. stretches 
a vast sandy flat, through which the 
Rhine wanders, bounded by the 
heights of Mont Tonnerre and the 
Vosges at 50 or 60 m. distance. The 
villages and towns are beautifully 
situated at the foot of the mountains, 
overhung by vine-covered slopes, and 
embosomed in orchards, which extend 
in cheerful avenues along the road from 
one town to another. "Almost every 
mountain of the Bergstrasse, and many 
of those in the Odenwald, are crowned 
by a castle ; which, embosomed in the 
woods of beech, or surrounded by 
vineyards, adds the interest of its anti- 
quity and chivalrous associations to the 
charms of the landscape." — Autumn 
near the Bhine. 

Zwingenberg Stat, close under the 
woody Melibocus. 

Those who wish to ascend the Meli- 
bocus should leave the railroad here 
(/«,», Lowe). Take refreshments with 
you — none are to be had above — and 
ask for the key of the tower. The visit, 
including ascent and descent by Schloss 
Auerbach, the best way to return to 
the road, occupies 3 hrs. walking. 
The tower alone commands the view 
on the side of the Odenwald, over its 
forest-clad hills ; the keys are kept at 
Auerbach, and at Alsbach. The whole 
excursion to the Melibocus, Felsberg, 
Felsenmcer, and through the valley of 
Schonberg back to Auerbach and 
Zwingenberg, occupies about 6 hrs. 



526 



ROUTE 105.— THE MELIBOCUS. ERBACH. Sect. VIII. 



The Melibocus, or Malchen, is a 
conical hill of granite, 1632 Paris ft. 
above the sea : it is the highest of 
the Odenwald chain of hills, and is 
conspicuous far and wide, on account 
of the white tower on its top, erected 
1772, as a Belvedere. The view from 
it is most extensive, owing to the vast 
expanse of flat in the valley of the Rhine 
below. " The more distant objects are, 
Spires, and Mannheim with its slated 
dome to the 1. ; Worms and its Gothic 
cathedral, opposite ; and the dark 
towers of Mayence, lower down. The 
tower is built on the very edge of the 
declivity. The smoking villages, the 
gardens, vineyards, and orchards of the 
Bergstrasse, appeared immediately be- 
neath us. "We traced the course of the 
Rhine, which now gleamed in the 
bright sun, and appeared little removed 
from the base of the mountain, from 
above Mannheim, almost to Bingen, a 
distance of nearly 60 Eng. m. At 
Bingen it loses itself in the defiles of the 
Rheingau mountains, which bound the 
view on that side. The course of the 
placid Neckar and its junction with the 
Ehine are very visible, as also that of 
the Main. By the help of a good tele- 
scope, in a clear day, you may distin- 
guish the tower of Strasburg cathedral, 
at a distance of above 100 Eng. in. 
Towards the K". the view reaches the 
mountains in the neighbourhood of 
Giessen, in Hesse, 60 m. distant. To 
the E. lies the Odenwald, over the 
chaotic wooded hills of which the pro- 
spect stretches as far as the vicinity of 
Wiirzburg — a distance of 60 or 70 m. ; 
while on the W., across the Rhine, the 
eye ranges over the smooth plain, till 
it is bounded by the blue broken tops 
of the Mont Tonnerre and the Vosges 
mountains, at a nearly equal distance." 
Autumn near the Rhine. 

[Those who intend to extend their 
walk through the Odenwald continue 
by a convenient path to another moun- 
tain, the Eelsberg, 3 m. off, surmounted 
by a hunting-lodge (Jagerhaus), which 
also commands a fine view. The valley 
which separates it from the Melibocus 
is one of the wildest in the Odenwald. 
A little way from the Jagerhaus, on 
the declivity of the hill, by the side of 



the path leading to Reichenbach, lies 
the Eiesensdule (Giant's Column), a gi- 
gantic column of hard syenite, similar 
to the rock of which the mountain is 
composed, and without doubt quar- 
ried on the .spot; it is about 30 ft. 
long, nearly 4 in diameter, and taper- 
ing towards one end. Its origin and 
use are unknown, but it must be of 
great antiquity. Not far off lies a 
vast block of the same stone, called 
Eiesenaltar, bearing on it incisions and 
marks of the saw. The appearance of 
these vestiges of human power and art 
in the depths of a sequestered forest is 
peculiarly striking, and not easily ac- 
counted for. Some have supposed that 
they are of German origin, and were 
intended to form part of a temple of 
Odin. It is more probable that they 
are the work of Roman artificers, 
during the time they were established 
in this part of Germany, which was 
included in the Agri Decumates. It 
was at one time proposed to erect the 
column on the field of Leipzig, as a 
monument of that victory — a project 
more easily started than executed. 

The Felsenmeer (Sea of Rocks) is a 
singular accumulation of fragments of 
syenite, some of vast size, heaped upon 
one another, and extending from near 
the top of the Felsberg almost to 
Reichenbach. They are of the same 
kind of rock as the mountain itself, so 
cannot have been transported from a 
distance. They appear like an avalanche 
of stones, hurled by some convulsion of 
nature from the summit. 

From this point again the traveller 
has the choice either of retmning to 
Zwingenberg Station, by way of 
Reichenbach and Auerbach, or of 
proceeding about 18 m. from Auer- 
bach, along a tolerable road, passing 
through Schonberg, Reichenbach, the 
hill of Winterkasten, and Reichels- 
heim, to Erbach [Inn, Post). This 
small town, is situated in a narrow 
valley overlooked by high rocks, 
composed of the new red sandstone 
(Bmitersandstein) and muschclkalk 
of geologists. 

The Castle of the Counts of Erbach, 
a modern building, erected on the site 
of an ancient baronial residence, the 



H. Darmstadt, route 105.— erbach. castle of rodenstein. 527 



greater part of which, except the 
donjon tower, was removed in the last 
cent., contains a very interesting Ar- 
moury, highly deserving of a visit. 
There are many snits, arranged, some 
on horseback, in the attitude of the 
tournament, others on foot. The 
history of every one is known : many 
have belonged to ancestors of the 
family, others have been worn by robber 
knights (Raubritter), not a few of 
whom expiated their crimes on the 
wheel or scaffold. Those which have 
a more general historical interest are, 
the suits of Philip the Good of Bur- 
gundy, the Empr. Frederick III., 
Maximilian I. of Austria, Gian Gia- 
como Medici, Margrave Albert of 
Brandenburg, Gustavus Adolphus, and 
Wallenstein. The last two, with many 
other suits in the collection, were 
brought from the arsenal at Nurem- 
berg. Here is besides the panoply of 
Franz of Sickingen, and his friend 
Gotz of Berlichingen, with the iron 
hand, brought from Heilbronn, and a 
small suit made for Thomcle, the dwarf 
of the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria, 
and worn by him on some festive occa- 
sion when he was presented in a pie to 
the company seated at table. There 
are other curiosities in the castle, such 
as fire-arms of various periods, painted 
glass, antiques, vases, &c. ; in short, it 
is highly worthy of a visit from 
strangers. In the chapel are the coffins 
in which Eginhard, secretary and son- 
in-law of Charlemagne, and the faith- 
ful Emma his wife, were buried ; they 
were removed from the church in Seli- 
genstadt in 1810. Eginhard was an 
ancestor of the Erbach family. 

Erbach is connected by a very good 
post-road with Darmstadt ; the dis- 
tance is 5^ Germ, m., and the country 
is very beautiful. There is also a way 
from Erbach to Heidelberg by Beer- 
felden and Eberbach on the JNeckar, 
from whence the descent of that river 
may be made in a boat, or the road 
along the banks may be followed. 

About 9 m. KW. from Erbach, 
between Reichelsheim and Bilstein, and 
near the former place, in a wild and 
secluded mountain district, surrounded 
by forests, lies the Castle of Rodenstein, 



the seat of the singular superstition of 
the wild Jager, the Knight of Roden- 
stein, who, issuing from out the ruined 
walls of the neighbouring castle of 
Schnellert, his usual abode, announces 
the approach of war by traversing the 
air with a noisy cavalcade, to the Castle 
of Rodenstein, situated on a solitary 
mountain opposite. " The strange 
noises heard on the eve of battles are 
authenticated by affidavits preserved in 
the village of Reichelsheim ; some are 
of so recent a date as 1743 and 1796, 
and there are persons who profess to 
have been convinced by their eyes as 
well as their ears. In this manner 
the people assert that they were fore- 
warned of the victories of Leipzig and 
Waterloo. If the spectral host return 
at once to Schnellert, nothing mate- 
rial occurs ; but if the huntsman tarry 
with his train, then some momentous 
event, threatening evil and calamity 
to Germany, is expected by the people 
to occur. The flying army of Roden- 
stein may probably be owing to a simple 
cause. The power of the wind is very 
great, and its roar singularly solemn 
and sonorous in these vast districts of 
forest. In the pine forests it some- 
times tears up thousands of trees in a 
night." — Autumn near the Shine. 

The legend of the Wild Huntsman 
has been attributed, with some proba- 
bility, to another cause — the passage 
at night of vast flocks of the larger 
birds of passage, as cranes, storks, &c, 
through the air in their annual migra- 
tions. The rustling of so many wings, 
and the wild cries of the fowl, heard 
in the darkness of night and in the 
solitude of the forest, may easily have 
furnished the superstitious peasant with 
the idea of the aerial huntsman and 
his pack. Since the dissolution of the 
German empire, the spectre, it is said, 
has given up his nocturnal chase ; at 
least, the inhabs. of the farm-house 
standing directly under the Rodenstein 
have not, for many years, been dis- 
turbed by noise or sight that can be 
traced to a ghostly origin. 

There is a road from Reichelsheim 
by Fiirth to Weinheim Stat, on the 
Bergstrasse.] 



528 



ROUTE 105. — AUERBACH. STARKENBURG. Sect. VIII. 



The Railroad runs nearly parallel 
with the Bergstrasse from Darmstadt 
to Weinheim, where it diverges to 
cross the Neckar at Ladehburg, "be- 
yond which it joins the railroad he- 
tween Mannheim and Heidelberg half- 
way between those towns. 

On the 1. not far "beyond the Zwin- 
genberg Stat, lies Anerbach (Inns : 
Krone (Crown), good; — Rose), one 
of the prettiest villages on the Bergs- 
strasse. It is sometimes resorted to as 
a watering-place, on account of a mi- 
neral spring in the neighbourhood. In 
the village itself there is nothing re- 
markable, hut it is worth while to 
explore the heauties of its neighbour- 
hood. A gradual ascent, practicable 
for a light char, leads past the Brunnen 
to the ruins of the Castle of Auerberg, 
one of the most picturesque in the 
Odenwald, 2 m. from the village. It 
was dismantled hy the French under 
Turenne, 1674, and time is fast com- 
pleting the work of destruction begun 
by man ; one of its tall slender towers 
fell in 1821, and the other threatens to 
follow it. The hill on which it stands 
is composed of granite and gneiss. A 
shady and easy path conducts from the 
ruins to the Melibocus ; guides and 
mules are to be hired hy those who re- 
quire them, and carriages can safely 
ascend. A little S. of Auerbach, is a 
hillock in the middle of a field, called 
Landberg, upon which in ancient times 
the Burgraves of Starkenburg held, 
in the open air, their tribunal called 
Gaugericht. 

Bensheim Stat. (Inn, Sonne), a town 
of 4000 inhab., with a new ch. in the 
round style, built by Moller. 

[About 3 m. W. of Bensheim, off 
the road, is the ruined Abbey of Lorsch, 
the oldest Gothic edifice in this part 
of Germany. A fragment of a portico, 
which served as an entrance into the 
original church, consecrated in 774, in 
the presence of Charlemagne, his queen, 
and two sons, still exists. The rest of 
the "building is of the 11th cent., and 
exhibits a specimen of the debased 
Roman style. A part of the building, 
at present used as a storehouse for 
fruit, dates from 1090. Lorsch is now 
only interesting to the antiquarian and 



architect. The holy monks who 
founded the abbey not only spread ci- 
vilisation and religion through the sur- 
rounding country, but redeemed it 
from the state of a wilderness, like the 
hack- woods of America, and "brought 
it under cultivation. In process of 
time the priory surpassed in wealth 
and extent of possession many hishop- 
rics and principalities. Duke Thassilo 
of Bavaria, deposed by Charlemagne, for 
treason, ended his days here as a monk.] 

Heppenheim Stat. — Inn, Halber 
Mond (Half Moon), good, capital trout, 
and wine of the country. This small 
town of 3700 inhab., like most others 
on the Bergstrasse, has an ancient and 
decayed appearance, hut is prettily 
situated. The church was built by 
Charlemagne. On a commanding 
height behind rise the towers of Stark- 
enburg Castle, "built 1064 by the abbots 
of Lorsch as a defence against the at- 
tacks of the German Emperors. It 
afterwards belonged to the Archbishops 
of Mayence, who considered it their 
strongest fortress, and maintained a 
garrison in it down to the time of the 
Seven Years' War. It was taken by 
the Spaniards under Cordova (1621), 
by the Swedes under Gustavus Adol- 
phus (1631), and was twice fruitlessly 
besieged by Turenne (1645 and 1674). 
The ascent — ^ an hr.'s drive hy a 
rotigh road — from Heppenheim is not 
very difficult, and is well repaid hy 
the beautiful view. The ground round 
these picturesque ruins is tastefully 
laid out in a garden. A post -road 
runs from Heppenheim through Lorsch 
and Biirstadt to "Worms, 2| Germ. m. 
A little way out of Heppenheim the 
railroad crosses the frontier of Darm- 
stadt into Baden. 

Heinsbach Stat. Near here is the 
country seat of M. Rothschild of Frank- 
furt, surmounted by 2 towers. He has 
large estates here. 

Weinheini Stat. (Inns : Der Karls- 
berg, near the Post ; Pfalzer Hof, near 
the hridge on the Weschnitz) is an 
ancient town, surrounded by towers 
and a ditch ; it lies on the Weschnitz, 
and has 4900 inhab., whose wealth 
consists in the orchards and vineyards 
around. The best wine of the Berg- 



Baden. 



ROUTE 105. — HEIDELBERG. 



529 



strasse is the Hubberger, which grows 
near Weinheim. Above the town is 
the castle of Windeck, remarkable for 
its cylindrical donjon tower. 

The railroad beyond Weinheim takes 
a bend to the S. W. away from the 
Bergstrasse, and makes direct for the 
Neckar. 

Gross-Sachsen Stat. Beyond this 

Ladenburg Stat., a town with walls 
and towers, and a handsome church (St. 
Galhis), on the rt. bank of the Neckar, 
which the Railway here crosses by a 
fine bridge. 

Friedrichsfeld Stat. — Junction here 
with the Railway from Mannheim to 
Heidelberg, from which places this stat. 
is nearly equally distant. Schwetzin- 
gen Gardens are 1^- m. off (p. 516) ; 
the ruined castle of Strahlenberg, above 
the town of Schriessheim, may be 
discerned on the 1. Heidelberg is 
hidden from view until you are just 
opposite to it. 

Heidelberg Stat., about J m. out- 
side the Klingel Thor. — Inns : Hotel 
Schrieder, near the railway terminus, 
comfortable, good view ; — P. Karl, in 
the market-place, near the Castle ; — 
Badischer Hof ; — H. de Hollande, near 
the bridge ; — Adler, near the P. Karl, 
clean and moderate. 

If pressed for time, you may walk in 
^ hr. from the railway by the Klingel 
Thor, thence along the inside of the 
town wall to the Castle ; returning 
down the footpath into the Karlsplatz, 
and through the town back to the Rail- 
way. From the great Ch. a street leads 
N. in 5 min. to the Bridge, which is a 
fine point of view. 

The beauty of the Bergstrassc has 
been perhaps exaggerated ; that of 
Heidelberg cannot be too much ex- 
tolled ; it is charmingly situated on the 
1. bank of the Neckar, on a narrow 
ledge between the river and the castle 
rock. It is almost limited to a single 
street, nearly 3 m. long, from the Rail- 
way Stat, to the Heilbronn gate. It has 
15,000 inhab., half Rom. Catholics. 
Few towns in Europe have experienced 
to a greater extent, or more frequently, 
the horrors of war, than the ill-starred 
Heidelberg. Previous to the Thirty 
Years' War it displayed in its buildings 

[n. g.] 



all the splendour arising from flourish- 
ing commerce and the residence of the 
court of the Electors Palatine of the 
Rhine. It has been 5 times bom- 
barded, twice laid in ashes, and thrice 
taken by assault and delivered over to 
pillage. In 1622 (the fatal period of 
the Thirty Years' War) the ferocious 
Tilly took the town by storm after a 
cruel siege and bombardment of nearly 
a month, and gave it up to be sacked 
for 3 days together. The garrison re- 
treated into the castle, headed by an 
Englishman named Herbert ; but the 
death of their commander, who was 
shot, compelled them to surrender in a 
few days. The Imperial troops retained 
possession of the place for 1 1 years ; 
after which it was retaken by the 
Swedes, who were hardly to be pre- 
ferred as friends to the Imperialists as 
foes. But Heidelberg wag destined to 
suffer far worse evils from the French. 
In 167 4- the Elector Charles Louis 
incurred the displeasure of Louis XIV. ; 
and a French army, under Turenne, 
was in consequence let loose upon the 
Palatinate, carrying slaughter, fire, and 
desolation before it. The Elector be- 
held with distress, from the castle in 
which he had shut hiniself up, the 
inroads of foreign troops, and flame and 
smoke rising up along the plain from 
burning towns and villages, Unable to 
oppose the French with equal force at 
the head of an army, but anxious to 
avenge the wrongs of his country, he 
resolved, in a spirit which some may 
deem Quixotic, others chivalrous, to 
endeavour to end the contest with his 
own sword, Accordingly he sent a 
cartel to Marshal Turenne, challenging 
him to single combat. * The French 
general returned a civil answer, but did 
not accept it. The ambition of Louis 
XIV. led him, on the death of the 
Elector, to lay claim to the Palatinate 
on behalf of the Duke of Orleans ; and 
another French army, more wicked 
than the first, was marched across the 
Rhine. Heidelberg was taken and 
burnt, 1688, by Melac, a general whose 
brutality and cruelty surpassed that 
of Tilly, But it was at the following 
siege, under Chamilly, in 1693, that it 
was reserved for the French to display 

2 A 



530 



ROUTE 105.— HEIDELBERG. UNIVERSITY, ETC. Sect. VIII. 



the most merciless tyranny, and prac- 
tise excesses "worthy of fiends rather 
than men, upon the town and itsinhab., 
paralleled only in the French Revolu- 
tion, and which will ever render the 
name of Frenchman odious in the 
Palatinate. The castle was betrayed 
through the cowardice or treachery of 
the governor, with the garrison, and 
many of the townspeople who had fled 
to it for refuge. The cruelty of the 
treatment they met with was, in this 
instance, heightened by religious intol- 
erance, and no mercy was shown to the 
Protestants. On this occasion the castle 
was entirely ruined. 

The University, founded 1386, is one 
of the oldest in Germany : the number 
of students is about 700. It is as a 
school of law and medicine that Hei- 
delberg is most distinguished. Many 
of the professors at the present time are 
men of great reputation I Gmelin, dis- 
tinguished in natural history and che- 
mistry ; Tiedemann, in anatomy ; Paulus, 
in theology ; Mittermeyer, in criminal 
law. Gervinus and Schlosser reside 
here in retirement. 

As an edifice the University is not 
remarkable. It is a plain and not very 
large house in the small square (Lud- 
wigs Platz) near the middle of the 
town. The Library, in a building by 
itself, consists of 120,000 volumes, be- 
sides MSS. A portion of the famous 
Palatine Library, which was carried off 
by the Bavarians in the Thirty Years' 
War, and sent to the Vatican as a 
present to the Pope, and as a trophy of 
the success of the Catholic cause, was 
restored to Heidelberg by Pope Pius 
VII. in 1815. The volumes sent back, 
890 in number, relate principally to 
German history. It is related that 
Tilly, being in want of straw after 
taking the castle, littered his cavalry 
with books and MSS. from the library 
of the Elector, at that time one of the 
most valuable in Europe. The curiosi- 
ties of this collection as it at present 
stands are, — a Codex of the Greek 
Anthology, 11th cent.; MSS. ofThucy- 
dides and Plutarch, of the 10 th and 
1 1th, and many autographs of remark- 
able persons ; Luther's MS. translation 
of Isaiah ; his Exhortation to Prayer 



against the Turks ; and a copy of the 
Heidelberg Catechism, annotated by 
him ; the Prayer-book of the Electress 
Elizabeth (James I.'s daughter) ; a 
Mass-book, ornamented with minia- 
tures, by John Dentzel of Ulm, 1499. 
The library is freely open to all persons 
for 2 hrs. daily, except on Sundays. 

The Anatomical and Zoological Mu- 
seums are placed in a building in the 
suburb, formerly a Dominican convent. 

Several professors have good Private 
Collections • the best are Creuzers' ca- 
binet of antiquities ; Leonhard's fossils 
and minerals, particularly rich in spe- 
cimens illustrative of the geology of 
this part of Germany ; and Professor 
Bronn's fossils of the neighbourhood of 
Heidelberg. There is also a dealer in 
minerals, the produce of the neighbour- 
ing district, at No. 211, Schiffgasse. 

The Museum Club (§ 44), opposite the 
University, contains reading, ball, and 
concert rooms, well supplied with 
papers and journals. 

Neither the public nor private build- 
ings in the town are at all remarkable 
in an architectural point of view, chiefly 
owing to the destruction caused by 
repeated sieges. One house, however, 
survives, which in the richly decorated 
facade, ornamented with statues, coats 
of arms, &c, may give some notion of 
former splendour ; it is the inn called 
Zum Bitter, from the figure of a knight 
on the top : it was built in 1592. It 
stands in the market-place, near the 
Church of the Holy Ghost, in which 
many electors and counts palatine were 
buried. Their fine monuments were 
destroyed by the French in 1793, when 
neither reverence for the dead nor the 
sacredness of the building prevented it 
becoming the scene of slaughter and 
sacrilege. The church is divided by a 
partition wall between the Catholics 
and Protestants, and the two services 
are performed under the same roof. 
The resistance of the townspeople to one 
of the electors, who wanted to deprive 
the Protestants of their half of this 
church, occasioned him to remove the 
Electoral court from 
Mannheim in 1719-20. 

The Ch. of St. Peter is remarkable 
as being the oldest in the town, and 



Heidelberg to 



Baden. 



ROUTE 105. HEIDELBERG CASTLE. 



531 



because Jerome of Prague, the com- 
panion of Huss, attached to its door his 
celebrated theses, which he maintained, 
at the same time expounding the Re- 
formed doctrines to a large multitude 
of hearers assembled in the adjoining 
churchyard. Here also is the simple 
tomb of Olimpia Morata, who com- 
bined the feminine grace and beauty of 
a woman with the intellect and learn- 
ing of a philosopher. Persecuted as a 
heretic in Italy, the land of her birth, 
she was forced to fly, along with her 
husband, a German, and at length 
settled at Heidelberg, where she de- 
livered lectures to a large and admiring 
audience. Her extraordinary acquire- 
ments in learning, her beauty, misfor- 
tunes, and early death, shed a peculiar 
interest upon her grave. 

The objects of greatest interest here 
are the Castle, and the views of the 
Rhine and Neckar valley. 

The Castle, anciently the residence 
of the Electors Palatine, presenting the 
combined character of a palace and a 
fortress, is an imposing ruin. The 
building displays the work of various 
hands, the taste of different founders, 
and the styles of successive centuries : 
it is highly interesting for its varied 
fortunes, its picturesque situation, its 
vastness, and the relics of architectural 
magnificence which it still displays, 
after having been three times burnt, 
and having ten times experienced the 
horrors of war. Its final ruin, how- 
ever, did not arise from those causes ; 
but after the greater part of the build- 
ing had been restored to its former 
splendour in 1718-20, it was set on fire 
by lightning in 1764 ; and since the 
total conflagration which ensued, it has 
never been rebuilt or tenanted. It is 
at present only a collection of red stone 
walls, and has remained roofless for 
nearly a century. It is approached by 
a carriage-road from behind, and by a 
winding foot-path on the side of the 
Neckar. The oldest part remaining is 
probably that built by the Electors 
Rudolph and Rupert. It has all the 
character of a stronghold of the middle 
ages, and the teeth of the portcullis 
still project from beneath the archway 
leading to it. The Friedrichsbau, named 



from the Elector, who built it in 1607, 
is distinguished by excessive richness 
of decoration : its facade to the S. 
is ornamented with statues of ancestors 
of the Electoral family from Charle- 
magne. The part of the building.most 
deserving of admiration, for the good 
taste of its design and the elegance of 
its decorations, is that which overlooks 
the river, and extends along the E. 
side of the quadrangle (g in the plan), 
built by Otto Henry (1556), in the style 
called cinque-cento, which is allied to 
the Elizabethan of England. The 
statues of heroes from sacred and pro- 
fane history, which decorate the front, 
though of (keuper) sandstone, are by 
no means contemptible as works of art. 
The English traveller will view with 
some interest that part of the castle 
called the English Palace (s), from its 
having been built for the reception of 
the Princess Elizabeth Stuart, daughter 
of James L, and grand-daughter of 
Mary Queen of Scots. The triumphal 
arch (#), having pillars entwined with 
ivy-leaves, was erected by her husband, 
the Elector Frederick V., afterwards 
King of Bohemia, to celebrate their 
nuptials; it led to the flower-garden 
which he caused to be laid out for her 
pleasure, and it still goes by the name 
of Elizabethen Pforte. 

" When her husband hesitated to ac- 
cept the crown of Bohemia, this high- 
hearted wife exclaimed, ' Let me rather 
eat dry bread at a king's table than 
feast at the board of an elector :' and it 
seemed as if some avenging demon 
hovered in the air to take her literally 
at her word ; for she and her family 
lived to eat dry bread — ay, and to beg 
it before they ate it ; but she would be a 
queen." — Mrs. Jameson. The granite 
pillars supporting the canopy of the 
well (n) in the corner of the court of 
the castle are said by some to have 
been brought from Charlemagne's pa- 
lace at Ingelheim, though they are un- 
doubtedly derived from the quarry in 
the Odenwald. (See p. 526.) 

In a cellar under the castle (e, /) is 
the famous Heidelberg Tun, constructed 
1751 ; it is the largest wine-cask in the 
world, 36 ft. long and 24 ft. high ; 
being capable of holding 800 hogsheads, 
2 a2 



532 



ROUTE 105. —HEIDELBERG CASTLE. 



Sect. VIII. 




a a a. "Footpath leading up to the Castle. 

b. Carriage-road. 

c. Platform or Terrace. 

d. Building of Frederick IV. (1607). The 
statues in the facade are ancestors of the reign- 
ing house of Bavaria, from Charlemagne and 
Otho of Wittelsbaeh. 

e. Cellar containing the Tun. 

f. Entrance to it. 

g. Building of Otho Henry, or Ritter Saal, 
begun 15.56, finished 1550. This is the finest 
portion of the Castle ; it is in the best style of 
Italian nrchitecture, and the scnlpture with 
which it is decorated is of high merit. 

h. Octagon Tower (1525)., first struck by the 
lightning which finally consumed the Castle in 
1764. 

i. Library Tower. 

li, Frederick II. s Buildings (15-19). 



L Oldest part of the Castle, begun in 1300 
by the Elector Rudolph. 

m.. Kupert's Building, begun 1400. 

n. Well, under a Canopy supported by pil- 
lars brought from Ingelheim (of Odenwald 
granite). 

o. Grand Gateway rl355), with Portcullis. 

f. The Hknvn-up Tower. 

q. The Gate raised in honour of the English 
Princess Klizabeth, daughter of James I. : her 
great-sirandson was George I. 

r. The Garden. 

s. The English Building erected for the Prin- 
ces Elizabeth, by her husband the Elector 
Frederick IV. (1607). 

f. Tower built by Elector Lewis V. U33. Its 
walls are 22 ft. thick. It was destroyed by 
the French, 1689. 



Baden. 



EOUTE 105. — HEIDELBERG. KO.\ T IGSTUHL, 



533 



or 283,200 bottles, which is far less, 
after all, than the dimensions of one of 
the porter vats of a London brewer. 
In former days, when the tun was filled 
with the produce of the vintage, it was 
usual to dance on the platform on the 
top. It has, however, remained empty 
since 1769, more than half a century. 

One of the' towers which formed the 
outer defences of the Castle (der ges- 
prengte Thurm) (p), was undermined 
and blown up by the French ; but so 
thick were the walls, and so strongly 
built, that, though nearly the whole of 
one side was detached by the explosion, 
instead of crumbling to pieces it merely 
slid down from its place, in one solid 
mass, into the ditch, where it still re- 
mains. Subterranean passages, for the 
most part still preserved and accessible, 
extend under the ramparts. 

The Gardens (originally laid out by 
the engineer Solomon de Caus) and 
Shrubberies round the castle, and the 
adjoining Terrace to the eastward, 
afford the most agreeable walks and 
splendid points of view it is possible to 
conceive over the Neckar, issuing out 
of its vine-clad valley, and winding- 
through a plain of the utmost fertility 
to join the Rhine, which appears here 
and there in distant flashes glittering 
in the sun. Spires and towers proclaim 
the existence of cities and villages 
almost without number, and the land- 
scape is bounded by the outline of the 
Vosges mountains. 

The best general View of the Castle 
may be obtained from the extremity of 
the terrace raised upon arches, and pro- 
jecting over the Neckar. The build- 
ing, however, is so grand an object, and 
the surrounding country so exceedingly 
beautiful, that the stranger will hardly 
be satisfied with seeing it from one 
point. He should mount the heights 
on the rt. bank of the Neckar, either 
by a path leading from the end of the 
bridge, which is steep, or by a more 
gradual ascent from Neuenheim. An 
agreeable path, easily accessible, called 
the Philosopher's Walk, conducts along 
the slope of the hill fronting the town. 
The hill behind it, which stands in the 
angle between the valley of the Rhine 
and Neckar, called the Meiligcnberg y 



presents a more extensive prospect. 
On the top are ruins of a castle and 
church of St. Michael, which succeeded 
to a Roman fort built on the spot. In 
1391 the wild sect called Flagellants 
made a pilgrimage to this holy moun- 
tain, clad in black, and wearing a white 
cross in front and behind. In the 
Thirty Years' "War Tilly opened his 
trenches to bombard the town from this 
point. 

About 50 yards above the bridge,, on 
the rt. bank, in a solitary inn called 
Hirschgasse, the students' duels are 
fought. 4 or 5 sometimes take place 
in a day ; and it is no uncommon thing 
for a student to have been engaged in 
25 or 30, as principal, in the course of 
4 or 5 years. 

The Konigstuhl, the highest hill in 
this district, lies "behind the town and 
castle. The summit may be reached 
in 1 or 1^ hr.'s walk, or in a carriage, 
and the view is the most extensive in 
the neighbourhood. A lofty tower has 
deen erected for the convenience of 
visitors, who often repair hither to see 
the sun rise, and if possible to extend 
the limits of the panorama, which in- 
cludes the valleys of the Rhine and 
Neckar, the Odenwald, Haardt Moun- 
tains on the W., the T annus on the 
N.W., the ridge of the Black Forest on 
the S., with the Castle of Eberstein- 
berg, near Baden, and the spire of 
Strasburg Minster, 90 m. off. Tilly 
bombarded the town from this hill, 
after his attack from the rt. bank had 
failed : remains of his trenches are still 
visible. 

There is a small tavern near the top,, 
called Kohlhof, where persons anxious 
to see the sun rise sometimes pass the 
night previously. 

The banks of the Neckar above 
Heidelberg are very interesting, and 
afford many pleasant excursions — one 
of the most agreeable being to Neckar- 
gcmiind (Inn, Pfalz), 6 m. off; the 
excursion may be agreeably prolonged 
to Neckar Steinach> on the rt. bank 
(Inn, Die Harfe). The course of the 
Ncckar is described in the Handbook 
for S. Germany. (Rte. 159.) 

A road, overlooking the Ncckar, runs 
from the castle along the shoulder of 



534 



ROUTE 105. LANGEXBBUCKEN". DURLACH. Sect. VIII. 



the hill to- the Wolfs Brunnen, an 
agreeable walk of 2 m. It is a pretty 
retired nook, named from a spring 
which rises there. There is a small inn 
close to it, famed for its beer and trout 
(kept in great numbers, and fattened 
in ponds and tanks ; many of them 
attain a large size). Here, according 
to tradition, the enchantress Jetta, who 
lived on the spot, and first foretold 
the greatness of the house of the Pala- 
tinate, was torn in pieces by a wolf. 
You may return hence to Heidelberg 
by the road along the margin of the 
river. 

At Handschuhsheim, about 2 m. on 
the road to Darmstadt, is one of the 
most extensive collections in Europe of 
Mexican Antiquities, belonging to Herr 
IThde. 

The cherries of Dossenheim, a village 
about 2 m. beyond Handschuhsheim, 
on the Bergstrasse, are sent by steam- 
boats to the London market. 

At the village of Neuenheim, which 
is on the rt. bank of the JSTeckar, nearly 
opposite to the railway station, in a 
house that goes by the name of Monch- 
hof, according to an obscure tradition, 
Luther was lodged when he passed 
through Heidelberg in 1518. 

Droskies may be hired for excursions 
in and around the town. 

Heidelberg is a cheap place of resi- 
dence, provisions being moderate and 
abundant. An English gentleman, who 
resided here in 1834, states his expenses 
for the year to have been but 380/., 
including horses, carriage, house-rent, 
and servants. 

Eilwdgen, daily, to Heilbronn in 
7 hrs., to Stuttgard in 12, and to Wiirz- 
burg in 15 (Rte. 110). 

Railways : — to Mannheim ; trains in 
35 min., stopping at Friedrichsfeld, 
which is the junction station of the 
Frankfurt and Darmstadt railway. 
The Baden Railway — Heidelberg to 
Bale, with branches to Baden-Baden 
and Kehl (opposite Strasburg) : trains 
to Carlsruhe in 1-J hrs. ; Baden 3 hrs. 
Kehl iu 5 hrs. ; to Freiburg in 7 hrs 
Haltringen, 8 m. from Bale, in 9 hrs. 
the 2nd-class carriages are commo- 
dious, with stuffed seats, and quite 
respectable. 



Steamboats on the Neckar to Heil- 
bronn, in 13 or 14 hrs., descending in 
7 or 8. (See Handbook S. Germany, 
Ete. 159.) 

St. Ilgen Stat. 

The country to the S. of Heidelberg 
scarcely retains any trace of the beauty 
of the Bergstrasse, but the line is 
carried through a flat but fertile coun- 
try, with a range of hills to the east- 
ward. 

"Wiesloch Stat. rt. The large build- 
ing called Kisslau was formerly a 
Ducal Palace, but is now a State 
Prison. 

Langenbriicken Stat. — Inn, Post. 
Here are sulphur baths. The establish- 
ment is well managed ; the house large, 
commodious, and well furnished. There 
is a table-d'hote and music, as usual at 
German watering-places. (§ 41.) The 
temperature of the springs ranges be- 
tween 50° and 60° Fahr. ; they are 
strongly impregnated with sulphur and 
sulphuretted hydrogen gas, being in 
their taste and smell very similar to 
those of Buxton. 

Bruchsal Stat. — Inns : Poste, good ; 
Badischer Hof, best ; Zahringer Hof. 
This inanimate town of 7200 inhab. 
formerly belonged to the Prince-Arch- 
bishops of Spire, whose vast Palace, 
now empty, stands near the gate lead- 
ing to Frankfurt. Travellers going to 
Munich and the Tyrol, by the most 
direct road, leave the railroad at 
Bruchsal. The road from Bruchsal to 
Stuttgart joins that from Carlsruhe to 
Stuttgart at Illingen. 

Weingarten Stat. 

Durlach Stat., once the residence of 
the Margraves of Baden-Durlach, now 
the reigning family since the extinction 
of the line of Baden-Baden, 1771. An 
old ruined castle upon a height of the 
Thurmberg was the cradle of the faniily 
in its infancy. The more recent Cha- 
teau or Palace in the town is now 
deserted and half pulled down ; what 
remains is turned into a cavalry bar- 
rack. In the gardens are some Roman 
altars and milestones, found in the 
neighbourhood. 

Eilndgen hence to Wildbad in tf hrs. 

After passing (rt.) Gottesau. once a 
convent, row an artillery barrack, we 



Baden. 



ROUTE 105. — CARLSRUHE. 



535 



reach the handsome buildings which 
compose the 

Carlsruhe Stat. — Inns: Post (Gold- 
enes Kreutz), table-d'hote, 1 fl., in- 
cluding wine ; Erbprinz, good; H. d'An- 
gleterre ; Pariser Hof ; Hof von Hol- 
land. There are very good baths in 
the town. Carlsruhe, the capital of the 
Grand Duchy of Baden, the seat of 
government and of the Chambers of 
Representatives, and residence of the 
court and foreign ministers, contains 
22,000 inhab. It is a pretty but rather 
dull town, and one of the youngest 
capitals of Germany, as it was not begun 
till 1715. It owes its origin, not to any 
fitness in the situation for trade or 
manufactures, but solely to the accident 
of the Margrave Charles of Baden build- 
ing a hunting-seat on the spot, which 
he fixed on from its seclusion and 
retirement, the surrounding country 
being at the time an almost uninter- 
rupted forest. He called this retreat 
" Charles's Rest." In a few years, 
however, his solitude was invaded by 
other dwellings, and converted into a 
populous settlement, and the hunting- 
lodge became the nucleus of a new city, 
which derived from it the name of 
Karls-ruhe. It is regularly built, in 
the form of a fan, or rather of a wheel. 
The main streets, like the spokes, all 
radiate from the palace, which termi- 
nates the vista in every street ; so that 
the citizens who wish " to know which 
way the wind blows," must necessarily 
look to the palace weathercock. The 
streets are provided with trottoirs, a 
rare convenience in German towns, of 
which neither Vienna nor Munich can 
boast. 

Prom the railway you enter Carls- 
ruhe by the Ettlinger Gate, and pass, 
in traversing the street leading to the 
palace, the monuments of the Grand 
Duke Karl (d. 1818), a bust ; Lewis 
(d. 1830), a statue • and that of the 
Margrave Charles William, founder 
of Carlsruhe, a pyramid of red sand- 
stone, with a neat inscription. The 2 
last are in the market-place on the "W 
side of which is the Bathhaus, on the 
E. the Protestant Oh., and further on, 
in the court-yard of the palace, is the 
statue of the Grand Duke Karl Fre- 



derick (d. 1811), by Schwanthaler. 
The Polytechnic school was built by 
Hiibsch in 1836. Over the portal are 
statues of Keppler and Erwin von 
Steinbach. 

The Palace or Schloss presents no- 
thing remarkable. The view from the 
turret which surmounts it, called The 
Bleithvrm, deserves to be seen, as it 
will give a correct notion of the singu- 
lar plan on which Carlsruhe is built. 
The town is nearly surrounded by the 
Haardt Forest, which is intersected 
by roads radiating from the palace, and 
corresponding with the streets of the 
town. Beyond this are seen the sil- 
very windings of the Rhine, and be- 
hind it the Vosges Mountains, in 
France ; while to the S. the pic- 
turesque outline of the Black Forest 
mountains, and on the N. those of the 
Bergstrasse, complete the panorama. 
The Theatre attached to the palace is 
open 3 times a week. The building is 
plain in its exterior, but is well fitted 
up within. 

The Estates or Parliament of Baden 
hold their sittings here : their debates 
are open to the public. 

One of the finest buildings is the 
Academie Gebdude, erected by Hiibsch, 
1843, of grey sandstone, with stripes 
of red. It is decorated with frescoes 
by Schwind, and contains a collection 
of paintings. There are— a portrait 
of Colbert, Ph. de Champagne • 2 por- 
traits by Van der Heist ; many Dutch 
pictures ; and a medallion portrait of 
Newton, by de Witte. Those of the 
old masters are of 2nd rate value, but 
there are good specimens of tbe modern 
German school : Achenbach, Dietz, 
Schwind. 

There is a Museum of Natural His- 
tory, on the rt. of the palace, rich in 
fossil remains ; a large portion of the 
skeleton of a mammoth was dug up at 
Oos. 

Carlsruhe also possesses a library of 
90,000 vols, and a botanic garden. 

The Palace Gardens and those called 
Amaliensruhe, which are thrown open 
to the public, afford agreeable walks. 
Another pleasant short walk is to the 
village of Biertheim, where there are 
good baths. 



536 



ROUTE 105. — RASTADT. 



Sect. VIII. 



A noble avenue of Lombardy pop- 
lars, the oldest and highest in Germany, 
none being under 90 ft., and some more 
than 120 ft. high, 2 m. long, leads to- 
wards Durlach. 

Stultz, the celebrated tailor, is the 
founder of an hospital in this town, 
near the Muhlberg gate, which he en- 
dowed with a sum of 100,000 fl. ; he 
was in consequence created a baron. 

In the shops of Franz Noldeke and 
M. Bielefeld will be found a number 
of interesting publications, engravings 
of all sorts, with guide-books, and views 
of the Rhine, and of Baden, &c. 

The Club (§ 44) is called the Mu- 
seum ; strangers may be admitted to it 
by a member. M. Noldeke will intro- 
duce English strangers. All the Ger- 
man, many French, and a few English 
papers are taken in here. 

In the Friedhof is the grave of Jung 
Stilling, who died here 1817. 

Eilwagen twice daily to Stuttgart in 
7 1 hrs. ; to Augsburg in 25 ; to "Wild- 
bad in 6-J ; to Zweibriicken in 11^; 
to Landau in 3-^ ; to Pforzheim 
in 3. 

Railway continued. — About 2 m. from 
Carlsruhe, on the rt. of the railroad, is 
Bulach, where is a modern Romanesque 
Ch., with 2 towers, built by Hiibsch, 
1838. The interior contains frescoes 
by Dietrich of Stuttgart. 

Ettlingen Stat. 

Malsch Stat. 

Muggensturm Stat. 

The Duchy of Baden is one of the 
most fertile districts in Germany, and 
that part of it through which the 
railroad passes produces tobacco in 
large quantities, maize, hops, hemp, 
and flax, besides every species of grain, 
It is a country of wine also, and oil, as 
the hills are clothed with vineyards, 
and the roads are shaded by luxuriant 
walnut-trees, from the nuts of which 
an excellent and clear oil is pressed, 
nearly as good for culinary pivrposes as 
fine olive-oil. The agricultural pea- 
santry in this country commonly wear 
cocked-hats, even in the fields, — a sin- 
gular decoration for a ploughboy. 

Rastadt Stat. — Inns : Badischer 
Hof ; Goldenes Kreutz. This town, of 
7000 inhab, on the Murg, is a dull 



place, but has been converted into a 
strong Fortress of the German -Con- 
federation, as a frontier defence against 
France. 

The Palace, built by the eccentric 
Margravine Sibylla (see below), is a 
large edifice of red sandstone. It was 
the residence of the last Margraves of 
Baden, but is now uninhabited, and has 
a deserted and decaying appearance. 
Its design is on the whole handsome ; 
and it has a further claim to attention, 
because 2 Congresses, important in 
the annals of Europe, have assembled 
under its roof: one in 1714, when 
Marshal Villars and Prince Eugene 
signed a treaty of peace in the small 
unpainted cabinet, its walls stained 
with ink-spots, still pointed out to 
visitors ; the second, in 1797-99, which 
was terminated abruptly by the mys- 
terious murder of the French envoys, 
Roberjot and Bonnier, as they were 
quitting the town, after a conference. 
No satisfactory light has ever been 
thrown upon the instigators or perpe- 
trators of this foul assassination, and 
direct violation of the law of nations, 
committed, it is supposed, in the ex- 
pectation of finding secret and important 
papers on the persons of the victims. 
About 10 min. walk outside the Rhei- 
nau gate a monument marks the spot 
where the French deputies were mur- 
dered. 

The Picture Gallery (so called) is 
filled with a great deal of trash ; but 
in another apartment are preserved 
the Turkish trophies, horsetail stand- 
ards, arms, &c, gained by the Mar- 
grave Louis in his successful cam- 
paigns against the Turks, together with 
the armom- he wore, and his portrait. 
In further testimony of his successful 
valour, whole-length portraits of 4 
Circassian slaves are pointed out. They 
formed part of the victor's share of the 
booty, and accompanied him home. 
How they were received by the lady 
Sibylla his wife, does not appear to be 
known. Many of these things were 
stolen by the revolutionary blackguards 
who called themselves Freischaren, 
who got possession of Rastadt in 1849. 

After leaving the Rastadt Stat, the 
railway crosses the river Murg, and a 



Baden. 



ROUTE 105. RA8TADT, THE FAVOURITE. 



537 



tlittle further passes at about ^ m. on 
the 1. the Favourite, an old-fashioned 
and deserted chateau of the Margraves 
of Baden, built by the Margravine 
Sibylla, wife of the heavy Louis of 
Baden, who fought against the Turks 
along with Prince Eugene. It is nei- 
ther large nor very handsome, and any 
splendour it may originally have pos- 
sessed is faded and decayed. It is 
chiefly interesting as illustrating the 
manners and tastes of former days, and 
from the singular character of Sibylla, 
its founder. In her youth she was very 
handsome, and not a little vain of her 
beauty ; as a proof of which she has 
left in her boudoir 60 or 70 portraits 
of herself, in as many different cos- 
tumes. The old-fashioned furniture of 
the chateau, orignally tawdry rather 
than tasteful, is nearly worn out. There 
are no works of art in the house ; but 
one or two old cabinets filled with glass, 
and some singular Delft ware in the 
forms of birds and beasts, are kept in 
the lower rooms. In the garden of the 
chateau is an odd, many-sided build- 
ing, resembling a Chinese temple : this 
was Sibylla's Chapel. A youth of fri- 
volity seems, in her case, to have ter- 
minated in an old age of bigotry and 
superstition. Before an altar within 
it, in a chamber designedly rendered as 
gloomy as a dungeon, she spent the 
greater part of her days and nights, 
during the latter years of her life, in- 
flicting upon herself all kinds of priva- 
tions and penances. Here is still pre- 
served the scourge of whipcord, ending 
in wire points (like a cat-o'-nine- 
tails), with which she used to discipline 
herself ; also, her hair shirt, and a cross 
of wire net-work, with points turned 
inward, which she wore next her skin, 
while 2 circular pieces of the same were 
placed for her to kneel upon.. Her bed 
was a thin rush mat, laid on the floor ; 
and her only companions were 2 wooden 
figures, as large as life, of the Virgin 
and St. John. These were her guests, 
and with them she used to sit down 
to table ; equal portions of every meal 
being served to all three j but their 
share was afterwards given to the poor. 
The Favourite is about 6- m. from 
Baden. 



Oos Stat. — A branch Railway di- 
verges hence to Baden 3 m. E. (Bte. 
10G.) The railway then crosses the 
Oos rivulet. » 

Sinzheim Stat. 

Steinbaeh Stat, at the foot of the 
hill of Yburg, the birthplace of Erwin,. 
the architect of Strasburg Minster. 

Buhl Stat.— Inn, Post. 

Ottersweier Stat. Here the valley 
of Hub opens out on the E. ; within 
it lie the Hubbad and the ruined 
Castle of Windeck. 

Achern Stat. — At Sassbach, 2 m. 1. of 
the railroad, stands an obelisk of granite, 
erected in- 1829, by the French, to mark 
the spot where their great General Tu- 
renne was killed by a cannon ball, 
while reconnoitring the Austrian army, 
27th July, 1675. This is the 4th mo- 
nument which has been set up to his 
memory, the others having been de- 
stroyed. His death arrested instantly 
the success of the French arms, no ge- 
neral in his army being found capable 
of following up his plans.. The most 
contradictory and futile orders were 
issued ; till the troops, discouraged by 
inaction and failure, exclaimed in irony,. 
" Lachez la pie (the piebald charger 
of Turenne, upon which he had so- 
often led them to victory); elle nous 
conduira." The bowels of Turenne 
were interred in the little chapel of St. 
Nicholas ; his body was conveyed, tq 
France.. 

[An interesting excursion may bo- 
made by Ober- Achern, Cappel, and Ot- 
tenhofen,. to the ruins of the Abbey of 
Allerheiligen (All Saints), destroyed, by 
fire 1803. (Inn, beim Forster.) Below 
the convent the hill has been cleft by 
a zigzag fissure for 400 ft. ; through 
this chasm a stream forces its way in 
numerous falls J 

A little beyond this the railroad 
crosses the Bench, a stream descending 
from the Kniebis. 

Renchen Stat. 

Appenweier Stat. A railway here 
branches off rt. to Kehl (Strasburg), 
2 Germ. m. — 9\ Eng. nu Travellers 
bound for Strasburg, and going after- 
wards to Freiburg or Schaffhausen, will 
find it convenient to go on to Offbnburg, 
and, leaving their baggage there, tQ 
2 A 3 



538 



ROUTE 105. — OFFENBURG. FREIBURG. 



Sect VIII. 



return thence to Strasburg. They 
may deposit it at M. Pfaehler's (of the 
Fortuna) new establishment, opposite 
the station, without incurring any extra 
expense. 

[A road goes from Appenweier 
over the Kniebis to Freudenstadt and 
Stuttgart (39 m.) by Oberkirch, 2 
m. from which is the fine Gothic 
Ch. of Lautenbach (built 1471), Oppe- 
nau (Inn, Krone : not a regular post 
station, but will supply horses), and 
3 Freudenstadt, From Appenweier 
an Eilwagen to Bippoldsau, the last 
place in Baden on this road, in 6 
hrs,] 

rt, The spire of Strasburg Minster 
is visible. 1, The well-preserved Castle 
of Staufenberg, built in the 11th cent., 
by a Bp, of Strasburg, crowns a distant 
eminence. 

Offenburg Stat. — Inn, La Fortuna 
(Pfaehler's) ; very good : a capital 
cuisine, and a clever and obliging host, 
who iinderstands English, He is also 
a wine-merchant, and his Zeller and 
Klingelberger wines, grown near this, 
are very good ; the price of a cask 
varies from 12?. to 15/. La Poste. In 
going from Frankfurt to Basle, or vice 
versei, the traveller may dine very com- 
fortably at the Offenburg Stat., as ^ hr. 
is allowed, Dinners from the 1st May 
to the end of October, at the Stat., 
by Pfaehler, of the Fortuna Hotel. 
Offenburg is a town of 3700 inhab., 
situated at the entrance of the valley of 
the Kinzig, through which runs the 
direct road from Strasburg to Schaff- 
hausen (Bte. 108). The modern Go- 
thic Castle of Ortenburg, at the mouth 
of the Kinzig Thai (See Bte. 108), is 
2 m. distant, It has been built by a 
Russian nobleman at a cost of 30,000/. 
Strasburg is about 12 m. distant. 

The railway then crosses the Kinzig. 

Nieder-Schopiheim Stat, 

Friesenheim Stat. 

Dinglingen Stat.— Inn, Post; good 
and cheap. 1^ m. E. lies Lahr (Post ; 
Sonne), a flourishing and industrious 
town, on the Schutter. W. beyond 
the Bhine appears the outline of the 
Vosges Mountains, E, the red sand- 
stone cliffs of the Black Forest. On a 
steep conical hill rise the ruins of 



Schloss Hohengeroldseck, destroyed by 
the French, 1697. 

Kippenheim Stat. 

The village of Kippenheim is the 
birthplace of Mr. (afterwards baron) 
Stultz, the tailor : a neat monument of 
cast-iron has been set up by the road- 
side to his memory. 

Orschweier Stat. Beyond this the 
railroad crosses the Ettenbach, and 
here, a little to the E. of the railroad, 
is Ettenheim, where a party of French 
emigrants, among whom was the Due 
d'Enghien, were seized, 1804, by 2 
columns of troops sent by Napoleon 
across the Bhine, who, thus committed 
a breach of the law of nations, and 
a violation of the territory of the 
German Confederation. The Didce was 
inhumanly shot 6 days after, at Yin- 
cennes, 

Herbolzheim Stat. 

Kenzingen Stat. — Inn, Lachs (Sal- 
mon) ; good and clean. 

Eiegel Stat, rt, The Kaiserstuhl, 
an isolated, volcanic, hilly range, fertile 
and thickly peopled, rises out of the 
plain of the Bhine : S. "W. of this place, 
the railway bends E. to avoid it, pass- 
ing between it and the Black Forest 
range. The summits of the Bellchen 
and Blauen are conspicuous. 

Emmendingen Stat. 

1. beyond the town, the Castle of 
Hochburg, one of the most extensive 
ruins in Germany, appears. 

Denzlingen Stat. 

About 3 m. N. of Freiburg, on the 
1., is the ruined Castle of the Counts of 
Zahringen, founders of the reigning 
family of Baden. From the ruins a 
beautiful view is obtained over the sur- 
rounding district, called the Breisgau ; 
for nearly 500 years a province of Aus- 
tria, but ceded to Baden by the Peace 
of Presburg, 1805. 

Freiburg Stat. — (Inns: Zahringer 
Hof, very good ; Engel (Angel) ; Goldner 
Lowe (Golden Lion) ; Pfau (Peacock) 
Sauvage (Wilder Mann), very fair 
Hotel Fohrenbach, close to the railway 
H. d'Allemagne). This, the ancient 
capital of the Breisgau, is situated in 
one of the prettiest spots on the out- 
skirts of the Black Forest, at the mouth 
of the Hollenthal (Valley of Hell), upon 



Baden. route 105. — freiburg. minster, university. 



539 



the Drcisam, runlets from which are 
carried through all the streets. It has 
15,000 inhah. (1500 Protestants re- 
cently settled here). 

The Minster is remarkahle as hcing 
almost the only large Gothic church 
in Germany which is finished, and 
which has escaped destruction from fire 
or the violence of war. It is equally 
admired for the delicate symmetry of 
its proportions, and the good taste of 
its decorations. It owes its existence, 
partly to the munificence of the princes 
of Zahringen ; but also to the zeal and 
liberality of the citizens of Freiburg, 
who taxed themselves to the utmost, 
and made great sacrifices to complete 
it. The architect's name is unknown; 
Erwin of Steinbach, who built Stras- 
burg, may have been his pupil. It 
was begun under Conrad III., of 
Zahringen, 1152. The nave, "W. front, 
tower, and rich porch below it, date 
from 1236-72, and are by far the finest 
part of the building ; the choir is infe- 
rior, and of a later period, 1513. The 
oldest parts are the transepts, together 
with -their external turrets, in the round 
style. The W. tower, 380 ft. high, one 
of the very few of the kind ever com- 
pleted, exhibits a skilful transition 
from a square base into an octagon, 
which is surmounted by a pyramidal 
spire of the most exquisite open-work 
tracery, all of stone, of extreme bold- 
ness as well as lightness. The ascent 
of the tower (6 kr.) gives a good idea 
of the beauty of the building : — the 
view is better from the Schlossberg. 

Beneath the tower is the main en- 
trance into the church, by a magnificent 
portal, richly ornamented with sculp- 
tures. The portal leading into the 
choir from the N. also deserves atten- 
tion ; the sculptures below the arch 
represent the Creation by the Deity in 
the form of an old man, shaping the 
sun, moon, and stars out of balls, and 
breathing life into Adam. 

The interior of the church contains 
the monument and armed effigy of 
Berchtold V., last Duke of Zahringen 
(1228) ; a curious carved pulpit, the 
work of George Kcmpf, 1561; and a 
singular piece of sculpture of the Lord's 
Supper, consisting of 13 figures, by an 



artist named Hauscr, 1561. The win- 
dows are filled with stained glass, of 
beautiful colours ; the oldest is of the 
15th cent.; that of the choir, supe- 
rior in point of drawing, dates only 
from the beginning of the 16th. That 
in St. Alexander's or the Miners' 
Chapel, is from designs of Baldung 
Griin, 1515, and very fine. Some 
good modern painted glass has been 
inserted. 

In the chapel of St. Martin (Locher- 
ers), on the IS", of the choir, a remark- 
able carving in wood represents the 
Virgin, sheltering beneath her mantle a 
whole host of worshippers of all ranks, 
including popes, cardinals, bishops, &c., 
date 1520. Prior (Domprobst) Bcek- 
lin's chapel contains his monumental 
effigy in armour, and a Crucifix of silver, 
hammered and gilt, of Eastern work- 
manship. 

The painting over the high altar, set 
within an elegant Gothic framework, is 
by Hans Baldung Griin (an old painter 
of Gmiind in Swabia, d. 1552). The 
chief subject, in the centre when the 
doors are opened, is the Ascension of the 
Virgin and her Coronation by the First 
and Second Persons in the Trinity : on 
the shutters at either side are the 12 
Apostles. The outside of these is occu- 
pied by 4 subjects — the Annunciation, 
Visitation of Elizabeth, Birth of Christ, 
and Flight into Egypt (perhaps the 
best). At the back of these paintings 
are others by B. Griin also, visible from 
the choir aisle, the chief piece being a 
row of portraits of magistrates' of Frei- 
burg. On the one side are St. George 
and St. Lawrence ; on the other, St. John 
Baptist and St. Jerome as a cardinal. It 
is curious, rather than beautiful, as a 
work of art. 

The University Chapel in the S. aisle 
contains 2 good pictures by Holbein, in 
his early style — a Nativity, and an 
Adoration of the Magi ; the latter very 
fine, especially the figure of the Vir- 
gin. It was painted for the Obcrriedt 
family, whose portraits are introduced 
below. 

The University, founded 1456, has 

only 228 students. It is the Roman 

' Catholic seminary of the Grand Duchy 

of Baden. Heidelberg is Protestant. 



540 



ROUTE 105.— ALT-BREISACH. MINSTER. 



Sect, VIII. 



Freiburg is now the see of an arch- 
bishop. 

Near the gate leading to Frankfurt 
stands the Protestant Church, an ele- 
gant building in Romanesque (Byzan- 
tine) style, with an octagon tower. It 
was skilfully transferred, stone by stone, 
from an old convent at Thennenbach, 
15 m. off in the forest, to which it was 
originally attached. 

The Kaufhaus, S. of the cathedral, is 
a very quaint Gothic building of the 
16th cent,, resting on pointed arches, 
decorated externally with fresco por- 
traits gilt of the Empr. Maximilian, his 
son Philip I., Charles V., and Ferdinand 
I. The Gothic portal under the arcade 
exhibits a singular arrangement. 

2 Gothic Fountains in the streets are 
worth notice, The town is flourishing 
from the wine and timber trade and the 
manufacture of chicory. There are 
delightful Walks round the castle hill 
{Schlossberg'), about J hr.'s walk from 
the minster. The ascent begins near 
the Schwaben Thor. The eye ranges 
over the vale of the Dreisam, bounded 
in the distance by the waving outline 
of the Black Forest Hills rising one be- 
hind another, The filagree work of the 
spire is seen from this to the greatest 
advantage. 

The beautiful scenery of the Hollen- 
tlial, on the way from Freiburg to Schaff- 
hausen, is described in Rte. 109. A 
traveller, not intending to pass through 
it on his way to Switzerland, should 
make an excursion from Freiburg as 
far as Steig, 11 m., to explore its 
beauties. 

Eiltcdgen daily to Schaffhausen in 11 
hrs., and Constance in 18, through the 
Hollenthal; to ATUBreisach in 2^ hrs., 
and thence to Colmar — stat. on the rail- 
way. 

[16 m. W. of Freiburg, on the rt. bank 
of the Rhine, stands Alt-Breisach, a de- 
cayed town, once a frontier fortress, and 
the key of Germany on the W., but 
with nothing to show its former impor- 
tance save the Minster of St, Stephen, on 
a hill. It contains some monuments j 
and a silver shrine, which held the relics | 
of the martyrs Gervasius and Protasius, 
found by St. Ambrose at Milan, and 
placed by him in the Ch, of St, Ambro^ 



gio (Handbook K Italy, p. 168). Its 
chief curiosity, however, is its beautiful 
Altar Screen, carved in wood. The 
central compartment is occupied by the 
Coronation of the Virgin, a very mas- 
terly work of art, with the date 1526, 
and the monogram of the sculptor, Hans 
Leifrink, or Leychman. The l.-hand 
shutter bears the representation of the 
patron saints of the town ; the rt.-hand 
is occupied by St. Stephen and St. 
Lawrence. Below the centre the 4 
Evangelists are grouped, composing their 
gospels. The whole is surmounted by 
pinnacles, that in the centre reaching 
up to the roof. A monument to the 
Grand Duke of Baden, Carl Frederick, 
has been placed on the top of the Eg- 
gardsberg, where once stood the Cita- 
del,'] 

The Baden Railway continues from 
Freiburg, near to the hills, to 

Schallstadt Stat. 

Krotzingen Stat., near which are the 
ruins of Staufenburg. 

Heitersheim "Stat. 

Miilheim Stat. {Inn, Krone). [About 

3 m. E. of the railroad are the baths of 
Badenweiler {Inns : Romerbad ; Stadt 
Carlsruhe). The waters were known to 
the Romans, and the baths erected by 
them were discovered, 1748, in a very per- 
fect state of preservation. They consistof 

4 large and 8 smaller baths, and include 
a vapour-bath, anointing-room, dress- 
ing-room, &c. They are regarded as 
the most perfect out of Rome, and are 
324 ft. long by 100 broad. An inscrip- 
tion found on the spot proves that they 
were dedicated to Diana Abnoba. Ex- 
cursions maybe made to the castle of 
Biirglen, 6 m,, and to the top of the 
Blauen mountain (6 m.), 3597 ft. high, 
the loftiest in the district. The wine 
called Markgrafler, the best which 
Baden produces, is grown near this. 

Sulzburg, to the JST.E., was the birth- 
place of Schopflin the Reformer. 

At Neuenburg, 3 m. W. of Miilllieim, 
Duke Bernard of Saxe Weimar died, 
1639, poisoned, it was supposed, by 
Richelieu.] 

Schliengen Stat. Here an action was 
fought between Moreau and the Arch- 
duke Charles, 1796. 

Efringen Stat. 



Bade 



ROUTE 105. — BADEN-BADEN". 



541 



■Haltingen Stat. Here at present 
(1851) the railway ends, 4 m. from 
Basle. When completed it will termi- 
nate 1^- m. from Basle, at Leopoldshohc, 
where the Baden custom-house is. Om- 
nibuses leaves Basle 1 hr. before the 
starting of the trains. 

Since Baden has adopted the Prussian 
custom-house system, the examination 
of the goods and person of travellers 
coming from Switzerland is strictly en- 
forced (§ 32). Luggage is examined 
about 3 m. from Basle. 

Basle. Handbook for Switzer- 
land. (Rte. 1.) 

ROUTE 106. 

CARLSRUHE [OOS] TO BADEN-BADEN — 
BRANCH RAILWAY. 

I Germ. m. = 3 Eng. m. 

This railroad branches off from the 
Great Baden railroad at the Oos stat. 
(Bte. 105, p. 537.) Beyond Oos the 
valley begins to contract and the hills 
to rise on either side. On the 1. the old 
castle of Baden is seen crowning the 
summit of a fir-clad hill. On the rt. 
rises the hill of Yburg, on which an- 
other castle is perched. Both of them 
were, perhaps, Roman forts originally. 

1£ Baden (called Baden-Baden, to 
distinguish it from places of the same 
name in Switzerland and near Vienna). 
Inns: Badenscherllof (much frequented 
by the English), good — excellent tablc- 
d'hotc ; II. de 1' Europe, opposite- the 
Conversationshaus and Trinkhalle, con- 
taining 100 rooms — table-d'hote at 5, 1 
fl. 12 kr. ; H. de Russie, clean and good ; 
II. d' Angleterre, the most fashionable, 
an excellent house ; H. de France ; II. 
du Rhin ; Zahringer Hof ; H. de Hol- 
lande. There are many other inns, 
and nearly =} of the houses in the town 
are let as lodgings, but do not provide 
dinners. The Sonne and Blume are 
respectable establishments of this class. 
The price of rooms varies, according to 
season and situation, from 3 fl. to 12 or 
14 fl. a week. A bath costs 24 kr.=8^d ; 
a bed, 48 kr. to 1 fl. per night ; break- 
fast, 36 kr. Some of the inns are pro- 
vided with baths, but there is no build- 
ing here appropriated exclusively to 
bathing. There are tables - d'hote in 



all the principal inns at 1, price from 
48 kr. to 1 fl., and at 5, chiefly to suit 
the English, at 1 fl. 12 or 24 kr.— at the 
Conversationshaus at 5, for 4 fr. The 
best wines of the country are Affenthaler 
(red), Klingelberger, and Markgraflcr. 
A dinner in private, 2 fl. 29 kr. = 5 fr. 
The price of everything is fixed by 
government, according to tariff, even 
down to washerwomen's charges. 

There can be but one opinion as to 
the beauty of the situation of the town 
of Baden, embosomed among hills form- 
ing an offset or commencement of the 
Black Forest range, and seated on the 
banks of the Oos, a stream which, though 
insignificant in size, once formed the 
boundary line between the Franks and 
Alemanni. The town has about 6000 
permanent inhab., and is built chiefly 
on the slope of a hill, owing to the nar- 
rowness of the valley. The mineral 
springs were known to and appre- 
ciated by the Romans, who fixed a 
colony here, and called it Civitas Aurelia 
Aquensis. It was for 6 cent, the abode 
of the Margraves of Baden, until the 
incendiary devastation of the Palatinate 
by the French caused them to remove 
to Rastadt in the flat plain of the Rhine. 
At present the Grand Duke of Baden 
occasionally visits his Villa here, but 
resides principally during the summer 
at his Castle of Eberstein. Baden was 
once considered one of the most fashion- 
able German watering-places (§ 41). 
During the season princes may be met 
with in abundance, but are usually out- 
numbered by blacklegs. The influx and 
concourse of visitors has greatly in- 
creased of late, and, in consequence, the 
number of new inns and other build- 
ings has multiplied proportionately, but 
the place is falling off in respectable 
society. It has the attraction of being 
by far the most beautiful of the baths of 
North Germany in its situation, even sur- 
passing in this respect the Brunnen of 
Nassau. The surrounding country, 
without the sublimity and grandeur of 
Switzerland, is distinguished by a pleas- 
ing and romantic wildncss : it is, as it 
were, a prelude to the Alps. The neigh- 
bourhood will afford almost endless gra- 
tification in the beauty of its prospects 
and the mvmber and variety of the rides 



542 



ROUTE 106. — BADEN-BADEN. SPRINGS. 



Sect. VIII. 



and walks, cut for miles in every direc- 
tion through the forests and up the sur- 
rounding hills. 

Whatever he the taste or disposition 
of the traveller, he will assuredly find 
something to please him here. There 
are saloons, promenades, halls, concerts, 
gaming-tables, and other luxuries of a 
capital ; and, on the other hand, 20 dif- 
ferent paths, leading in 10 min. into the 
depths of dark woods or deep valleys, 
where he may enjoy solitude so com- 
plete that he may fancy himself far from 
the haunts of men. From the number 
of woods and avenues around, the in- 
valid may enjoy a shady walk at all 
hours, even in the height of summer. 
The months of July and August are the 
season when the baths are most fre- 
quented, but visitors are constantly 
coming and going from May to October, 
if the weather be fine. As many as 
32,000 persons in the season of 1845 re- 
sorted to the baths. The number of 
English visitors increased so much of 
late that the place assumed the appear- 
ance of a settlement of our countrymen. 
This influx had the effect of diminishing 
its advantages of cheapness and retire- 
ment, as within a few years the price 
of everything was raised nearly one half. 
Now, however (1850), owing to over- 
building and a falling off in the number 
of visitors, arising from the recently 
disturbed state of Baden, prices have de- 
clined. After October the soil and cli- 
mate are extremely damp — the grassy 
banks are oozing with water, which the 
granitic substratum will not absorb, and 
the hotels and lodging - houses suffer 
greatly from moisture. 

The Hot Springs (13 in number) burst 
out of the rocks at the foot of the castle 
terrace, called Schneckengarten, behind 
the parish church. That part of the 
town goes by the name of " Hell," and 
in the coldest weather snow never rests 
upon it. Neither summer nor winter 
produces any variation in the tempera- 
ture of the springs. The hottest are 54° 
Reaum., the coldest 37°. Water from 
them is conveyed through the town in 
pipes, to supply the different baths, and 
loses little of its warmth in the passage ; 
but the supply greatly exceeds the de- 
mand, so that some of the sources are 



used by the townspeople to scald their 
pigs and poultry. A -building in the 
form of a temple is erected over the 
principal spring (Ursprung), one of the 
hottest as well as most copious sources. 
The vault of masonry which encloses 
the spring is of Roman construction. 
Several fragments of ancient sculpture, 
dug up in Baden and its neighbourhood, 
are preserved in the building — among 
them are votive tables and altars to 
Neptune, Mercury, and Juno. Neptune 
seems to have been the adopted patron 
of Baden and of this medicinal fountain. 
Remains of Boman vapour-baths, well 
preserved, were discovered in 1847 just 
beneath the new castle. One room is 
accessible. The mineral water which 
comes out of the rock was conducted by 
a canal to a subterraneous chamber of 
about 20 ft. in breadth and 40 in length, 
from which the vapour ascended to the 
bathing-room by a great many pipes 
which open all round its walls. The 
floor is supported by small columns 
3 ft. hign. 

The Nexie Trinlihalle (i. e. Pump- 
room) on the public walks, and nearly 
on a line with the Conversationshaus, 
is one of the handsomest buildings in 
Baden. It is from Hiibsch's design, and 
is decorated with poor frescoes, repre- 
senting legends of the Black Forest. 
The hot water is conducted in pipes from 
the source, and other mineral waters, 
goat's whey, &c, are to be had. The 
company assembles here between 6^ and 
7^- a.m. to drink the waters, and the 
band plays. A new building for vapour- 
baths has recently been constructed close 
to the Ursprung. 

On the 1. bank of the Oosbach, oppo- 
site to the town, are the Promenade 
and the Conversationshaus, a handsome 
building with a Corinthian portico, sur- 
rounded by gardens and pleasure-grounds, 
forming the lounge and chief resort — in 
fact, the grand focus of attraction for 
the visitors at Baden. It is one of the 
most splendid establishments of the kind 
in Germany, and includes a very fine 
and large assembly-room, where there 
is dancing 3 times a week, to which 
people repair in their morning dross, 
except on Saturday, when it is " bal 
pare." Gaming - tables are open and 



Baden. 



ROUTE 106. -BADEN-BADEN. NEUE SCHLOSS. 



543 



occupied day and night. There is *a 
Theatre in the rt. wing, and in the 1. a 
Restaurant, where dinners may be had 
a la cai'te : attached to it is the Library 
and Reading-room of M. Marx. 

Strangers who intend to remain any 
time here may subscribe for a fortnight 
or month to the rooms and balls. In 
the shop of Creutzbauer the bookseller 
there is a Circulating Library and read- 
ing-room, where The Times, Galignani's 
Messenger, and other English papers 
are taken in. The shady avenue leading 
to the Conversationshaus is occupied 
by shops of traders from various parts of 
Europe— Tyrol, Switzerland, Paris — all 
selling their national commodities, and 
commonly not very cheap. In the after- 
noon, when dinner is over, the walks 
and colonnades in front of the Conver- 
sationshaus become the fashionable re- 
sort, and are crowded with people sip- 
ping coffee and ices, or smoking ; the 
whole space is then covered with chairs 
and tables, and a band of music is sta- 
tioned close at hand. 

The rouge-et-noir and roulette tables, 
though opened for a forenoon course of 
gambling, are chiefly frequented in the 
evening, and stakes become higher as 
the night advances. Females are some- 
times seen at them as well as men, ladies 
but rarely. Players alone are allowed 
to be seated. 

The Conversationshaus is let out by 
the government of Baden to a company 
of speculators, who pay for the exclusive 
privilege of opening gambling-tables 
35,000 fl. (3000/.) annually, and agree 
to spend in addition 250,000 fl. on the 
walks and buildings. Some idea may 
be formed from this of the vast sums of 
money which must be yearly lost by the 
dupes who frequent this licensed gaming- 
house. It is understood that the same 
company engage the tables at Ems, 
Wiesbaden, and other watering-places. 
The whole is under the direction of M. 
Benazet, who formerly farmed the gam- 
bling-houses of Paris. He has fitted up 
the interior with much taste and great 
splendour. The gaming-tables draw 
hither much disreputable society, and 
must be considered as a very serious dis- 
advantage to the place. It is chiefly 
through their baneful influence that 



Baden has sadly fallen off in respecta ■ 
bility of late years. 

Immediately above the highest houses 
of the town rises das neue Schloss (new 
castle) — called new only by way of 
distinguishing it from the still older 
castle on the very summit of the hill 
above, in which the Duke's ancestors 
resided during the insecure times of the 
middle ages, down to 1471, when the 
present new schloss was founded. It 
was burnt and ruined in the fatal year 
1689 by the French army that ravaged 
the Palatinate, but was afterwards re- 
stored in its present form. It is an 
ugly building, only remarkable for its 
situation and the curious Dungeons be- 
neath it. Under the guidance of the 
castellan, the stranger is conducted into 
these singular vaults down a winding 
stair, under the tower in the rt.-hand 
corner of the inner court, through an 
ancient bath constructed by the Bo- 
mans. This entrance has been broken 
through in modern times ; originally 
the dungeons were only accessible 
from above, by a perpendicular shaft or 
chimney running through the centre 
of the building, and still in existence. 
The visitor, in passing under it, can 
barely discern the daylight at the top. 
According to tradition, prisoners, bound 
fast in an arm-chair and blindfolded, 
were let down by a windlass into these 
dark and mysterious vaults, excavated 
out of the solid rock on which the castle 
is founded. The dungeons were closed, 
not with doors of wood or iron, but 
with solid slabs of stone, turning upon 
pivots, and ingeniously fitted. Several 
of them still remain ; they are nearly 
a foot thick, and weigh from 1200 to 
2000 lbs. In one chamber, loftier than 
the rest, called the Rack Chamber (Fol- 
ter-Kammer), the instruments of tor- 
ture stood ; a row of iron rings, form- 
ing part of the fearful apparatus, still 
remains in the wall. In a passage ad- 
joining there is a well or pit in the 
floor, now boarded over, originally co- 
vered with a trap-door. The prisoner 
upon whom doom had been passed was 
led into this passage, and desired to 
kiss an image of the Virgin placed at 
the opposite end ; but no sooner did 
his feet rest on the trap-door than it 



544 



ROUTE 106. — BADEN-BADEN. CHURCH. 



Sect. VIII. 



gave way beneath his weight, and pre- 
cipitated him to a great depth below, 
upon a machine composed of wheels, 
armed with lancets, by which he was 
torn to pieces. This dreadful punish- 
ment was called the " Baiser de la 
Vierge," and the fatal pit, with its trap- 
door, an oubliette ; because those who 
were precipitated down it were " oublie's" 
never heard of more. The secret of 
this terrible dungeon remained un- 
known until, as the story goes, an at- 
tempt to rescue a little dog, which had 
fallen through the planking above the 
pit, led to the discovery, at a depth of 
many yards, of fragments of ponderous 
wheels set round with rusty knives, 
with portions of bones, rags, and torn 
garments adhering to them. 

The last and largest of these vaults 
is called the Hall of Judgment. Here 
the judges sat upon stone benches, 
remains of which may still be traced 
round the wall. Behind the niche 
where the president (Blutrichtcr) sat 
is the outlet to a subterranean passage, 
by which the members of the court 
entered ; it is said to have communi- 
cated at one time with the Alte Schloss 
on the top of the hill, but is now walled 
up. 

According to popular belief, these 
dungeons were the seat of a Secret Tri- 
bunal (Vehmgerieht), such as that de- 
scribed so well by Scott in Anne of 
Geierstein, and by Gothe in Gotz of 
Berlichingen. It must be remembered, 
however, that the famous Vehme of 
Westphalia held its meetings, not in 
the dark, nor in dungeons, but in broad 
day, and in the open field. (See p. 
369.) 

There is little doubt that these pri- 
sons were the place of meeting of a 
mysterious tribunal, over which the lord 
of the castle most probably presided. 
Similar prisons (excepting the stone 
doors) are to be found in almost every 
well-preserved baronial fortress of the 
middle ages ; and, though sometimes 
appropriated to the trial of real offences 
committed within the seigneur's juris- 
diction, were not unfrequently the in- 
struments of tyranny, and the scenes of 
dark crime; while at the best, from 
the secrecy of the proceedings, such a 



trial must have been but " wild jus- 
tice." 

The upper part of the castle is only 
worth notice on account of the fine 
view from its windows, and of the open 
shaft running through the building 
from top to bottom, within the winding 
staircase, which was the means of access 
to the dungeons below. It was di- 
vided by a partition, extending the 
whole way down. It is supposed that . 
a prisoner, with his eyes blindfolded, 
was admitted by a door in the hall, 
opposite the principal entrance of the 



castle, was seated in an arm-chair, 



wound up to the top by a windlass 
through one side of the shaft, and let 
down by the other into the prisons of 
the secret tribunal. This shaft, at least, 
served to convey air into those subter- 
ranean chambers. The small garden 
adjoining the castle and the terrace 
called Schneckengarten (snail garden, 
because snails were once bred in it for 
the table) are agreeable walks, com- 
manding fine, views. 

The Parish Church is noticed chiefly 
as being the burial-place of the Mar- 
graves of Baden, and as containing 
several of their monuments. The most 
interesting are those of Margrave Louis 
William, who distinguished himself 
against the Turks, and was considered 
one of the first generals of his time. 
He served in 26 campaigns, and in his 
numerous battles was never vanquished ; 
he died 1707 : Prince Eugene served 
under him, His monument is by Pi- 
galle (the sculptor of that of Marshal 
Saxe at Strasburg), and is not in good 
taste. Margrave Frederick, although 
Bishop of Utrecht, is represented on his 
tomb clad in armour, but with a mitre 
on his head instead of a helmet. An- 
other of the family, Leopold William, 
also fought against the infidel, in token 
of which his monument (one of the 
best in the collection) is supported by 
Turks, chained. He was the colleague 
of Stahremberg and Montecucoli, and 
died at Warasdin in Hungary, 1671. 
At the E. end of the town is a Convent 
of nuns of the Holy Sepulchre : their 
dress is black, in sign of mourning ; to 
be worn until the Holy Sepulchre shall 
be again rescued from the Infidels by 



Baden. 



ROUTE 106. EXCURSIONS. EBERSTEINBURG. 



545 



the Christians. The sisters conduct a 
female school ; the service in their con- 
vent chapel, aided hy the voices of a 
female choir, is very impressive and 
pleasing. 

The English Church Service is per- 
formed every Sunday in the Spital 
Kirche, at 1 1 . English visitors usually 
subscribe towards the stipend of the 
clergyman. 

Dr. C. Freeh, a resident German 
physician, understands the English lan- 
guage and practice. 

Post- Office. — Letters arrive from and 
are despatched to Strasburg twice, and 
to Carlsruhe once a day. 

Extra-post. — The post-master is en- 
titled to charge 15 kr. above the usual 
sum for every horse sent out from 
Baden. 

Hired carriages, donkeys, and riding- 
horses are to be had in abundance dur- 
ing the season at all the principal inns. 
About 2 or 3 in the afternoon they 
collect at the end of the avenue leading 
to the Conversationshaus, to await 
employers. All the charges are fixed 
according to distance, by a printed 
tariff (taxe). 

Excursions. — A stranger cannot be 
at a loss for excursions : let him follow 
almost any path leading out of the 
town, and he will find it a pleasant 
walk. One of the most agreeable, 
and usually the first taken, is that to 
das alte ScJiloss (2-^ m., an hour's 
walk), the conspicuous ruin which rises 
out of the woods on the summit of the 
hill above the town. A carriage-road, 
commencing behind das neue Schloss, 
leads up the hill to it in zigzags, but 
a shorter foot-path is open for pedes- 
trians, or those who trust to mules and 
asses, the usual beasts of burden em- 
ployed in this excursion. The shade 
of the woods through which the path 
winds alleviates the fatigue of the 
ascent in the heat of the day, while 
seats, opportunely placed, wherever a 
projecting rock displays the view to 
advantage, enable the wanderer to re- 
cruit his strength, if weary. 

The Alte Schlos's was the earliest 
residence of the ancestors of the reign- 
ing house of Baden. Its situation 
afforded its owners security from foes 



during many centuries of rapine and 
disorder. At length, in the 15th cent., 
when the right of private warfare was 
abolished, the Lords of Baden ven- 
tured to descend from their tower on 
high, and settled in the New Chateau, 
close to iliii town. This interesting 
and picturesque old ruin was disman- 
tled and reduced to its present state 
by the French in the devastating war 
of the Palatinate. The view which the 
galleries round its mouldering battle- 
ments afford is the most pleasing and 
extensive in the neighbourhood of 
Baden. On one side are seen the dark 
hills of the Black Forest, luxuriantly 
clothed with the woods from which 
they get their name, contrasting with 
the verdure of the valleys they enclose, 
while the town of Baden at our feet, 
numberless villages, chinch spires, con- 
vents, and mills, clustering on the 
borders of winding streams, fill the 
foreground : on the other side, the hills 
subside into the plain of the Rhine, 
whose course may be traced in the 
distance, backed by the Yosges Moun- 
tains in France. 

A path leading from the gateway of 
the castle to the left, and winding 
round the shoulder of the hill, conducts 
to Ebersteinburg (2 m.), another ruin, 
near a village of the same name. 
" This is an agreeable prolongation of 
the morning's excursion. Walks are 
also cut in the hill above the castle to 
the curious rocks called Eelsenbruche 
on the summit, whence a good view 
over the level land to Strasburg may 
be enjoyed." — D. J. 

The views from the top of the other 
hills around Baden, the Jagdhaus 
(Hunting Lodge, from which the spire 
of Strasburg may be seen), the Yburg, 
6 m. (accessible for carriages only part 
of the way — to the foot of the hill), 
and the Mercuriusberg, 5 m. (on whose 
summit a tower is built), partake more 
or less of the character of that from the 
Alte Schloss. Nevertheless, a person 
residing some time at Baden will find 
each of them a pleasant excursion, 
affording most excellent situations for 
a picnic party. 

Lichtenthal. An avenue of shady 
oaks, commencing near the S. end 



546 



ROUTE 106. — LICHTESTTHAL. NEU-EBERSTEIN. Sect. VIII. 



of the town of Baden, leads up the 
valley to the Convent of Lichtenthal, 
1£ m. It was richly endowed in ancient 
days by the Margraves of Baden, but 
has undergone the fate of all such reli- 
gious establishments ; its revenues only 
escaped entire confiscation by the inter- 
ference of the Grand Duke, but the 
number of its inmates is now reduced 
to 20 nuns. In the older and smaller 
of the two churches attached to the 
convent are many curious monuments 
of the Margraves, bearing their mailed 
effigies, and the crest of goat's horn 
displayed on their helmets : one prince 
lies on a slab or table, clad in mail, with 
bars of iron running down the sleeves, 
a curious transition from chain to plate 
armour. 

The Orphan house attached to the 
convent is one of the foundations of the 
charitable London tailor Stultz, who 
was created a nobleman by the Grand 
Duke of Baden. 

The convent and the village of Ober- 
beuern, close to Lichtenthal, lie at the 
entrance of a beautiful valley, which 
well deserves to be explored. It is 
the picture of quiet seclusion, a minia- 
ture of a Swiss valle*y. A clear rippling 
stream flows through the midst, and 
sets in activity several saw-mills ; rich 
verdant meadows and well cultivated 
cornfields line its banks, and extend 
up to the hem of the forest, which 
clothes all the hills around with its 
dark foliage. A carriage-road leads as 
far as Geroldsau, a picturesque village, 
where visitors are invited to waBi up 
to a waterfall called the Butte (6 m. 
from Baden). The walk- is pleasant ; 
but as for the waterfall, it is a paltry 
jet, dried up for a great part of the 
season, when its attractions are most 
needed. 

A pedestrian disposed to take a good 
long walk may go to Yburg, proceed 
thence with a guide over the hills to 
Geroldsau and the waterfall, and return 
to Baden by Lichtenthal, making alto- 
gether 12 or 13 miles. 

A traveller pressed for time may visit 
the most interesting objects around 
Baden in 6 hrs., with a carriage and 
2 horses, costing 6 florins. After seeing 
the Old Schloss, which will take up 3 



hrs. on foot, he may drive by Lichten- 
thal to Neu-Eberstein ; thence descend 
the Murgthal to Gernsbach, by Ot- 
tenau, Rothenfels, and Kuppenheim, to 
the Favourite ; whence he may either 
return to Baden, or proceed on to the 
Rastadt station (p. 536). 

The most pleasing excursion, however, 
beyond doubt, among the many which 
lie within the reach of the visitor at 
Baden, is that to the Valley of the 
Murg. The drive to Gernsbach and 
Neu Eberstein (6 m.) and back will 
occupy a morning or afternoon ; but it 
is well worth a stranger's while to de- 
vote a whole day to the beauties of the 
Murgthal. 

An admirably constructed road leads 
from Lichtenthal direct to Schloss Eber- 
stein, a drive of 1J hr., winding gra- 
dually over the ridge of steep hills, a 
spur or promontory shooting out from 
the Black Forest range, which divides 
the valley of Baden from that of the 
Murg. After viewing it, the traveller 
may descend the valley to Gerns- 
bach. 

The Castle of Neu Eberstein, an an- 
cestral fortalice of the Grand Ducal 
family, projects forward on the summit 
of a beetling crag, in a situation ena- 
bling its owners, in ancient days, to 
command the passage up and down the 
stream and valley, and to take toll from 
all comers. - The old feudal ruin has 
been built up into a modern residence, 
and is inhabited during part of the 
year by some members of the Grand 
Duke's family. Strangers are freely 
admitted to see it. In front of it, on a 
stone pedestal, is placed a huge statue 
of a wild boar. {Eber.') The Gothic 
furniture, ancient armour, and painted 
glass with which it is decorated, though 
curious, will hardly distract the stran- 
ger's attention from the exquisite view 
which he will gain from the platform in 
front. The road descends in zigzags 
from the castle-gate to the Murg, and 
joins a shorter footpath through the 
wood, at a little white chapel called 
Der Klingel, the resort of pilgrims at 
certain seasons. 

In the small town of 67 ernsbach (Inns: 
Stern; Sonne), 2000 inhab., at the 
comer of the market-place, is a hand- 



Baden. 



ROUTE 107.— BADEN TO STRASBURG. 



547 



some red Elizabethan house. The saw- 
mills, which abound here, are busily 
employed in cutting into planks the 
noble trees of the Black Forest, which, 
having been floated down the Murg, 
are here collected, sorted, cut, and made 
up into larger rafts, to find their way 
down the Rhine to Holland. 

About an hour's drive beyond Gerns- 
hach, and lower down the valley of the 
Murg, is Rothenfels, with a fine hotel, 
pleasantly situated at what is called the 
Elizabethenquelle. 

Those who intend to wander further 
up the valley above Eberstein will find 
a footpath descending from the castle 
straight to the village of Oberzroth, 
where they will find themselves again 
at the side of the Murg. The beauties 
and wildness of the river-banks in- 
crease as you ascend the stream. The 
villages passed in succession are Hil- 
pertsau, where the road crosses over to 
the rt. bank of the Murg ; Weissenbach ; 
Langenbrand, on a lofty granite rock, a 
very striking object ; Gausbach, where 
the wooden houses resemble those of 
Switzerland; and Forbach (Inn, Krone), 
the last village belonging to Baden, 1 2 
m. from Baden. As the road beyond 
is up-hill, Forbach generally forms the 
limits of a day's excursion, if the tra- 
veller intends returning the same day 
to Baden ; but for those who have time 
to spare, it may be observed that the 
vale of the Murg is only the entrance 
to other very beautiful valleys of the 
Black Forest. 

In the side valley of the Rauhmunz- 
ach, a few miles above Forbach, and in 
the midst of the mountains, may be 
seen a kind of tank (Schwellung), 
formed by damming up the stream, 
which is opened at stated periods to 
float down vast masses of timber. The 
valley of the Murg loses much of its 
beauty in its upper extremity. The 
frontier of Wiirtemberg is reached at 
the post station Schonmiinznach (Inns : 
Post and Zum Waldhorn), 2 posts from 
Wildbad. See Handbook of South 
Germany, Route 162, where the road 
from Baden to Wildbad is described. 



ROUTE 107. 

BADEN TO STRASBURG — RAILWAY. 

2 Germ. m. from Appenweier Stat, to 
Kehl, and 6 French kilometres thence 
to Strasburg =13 Eng. m. 

A branch line from the Appenweier 
Stat., on the Great Baden railway 
(Rte. 106), leads W. to Kehl. Trains 
run in 25 min. 

Kork Stat. 

2 Kehl Stat. — Inns : Post ; Weisses 
Lamm ; comfortable, and a civil host. 

Kehl, on the bank of the Rhine, at 
the confluence of the Kinzig and Schut- 
ter with the Rhine, though dignified 
by the name of a town, resembles more 
nearly a village. It was once a strong 
fortress of the German empire, strength- 
ened as a bulwark against France, and 
has consequently been bombarded, 
burned, and razed more than a dozen 
times by French armies on crossing the 
Rhine. At present its fortifications 
are dismantled, and Germany is unpro- 
tected at this point. To guard against 
this, the German Confederation are 
causing the towns of Gemersheim on 
the 1. bank of the Rhine, and Rastadt 
on the rt., to be converted into places 
of strength. 

As the French Custom-house on the 
opposite side of the Rhine is notori- 
ously strict, persons wishing merely 
to see Strasburg, and not to penetrate 
farther into France, had better leave 
their baggage at Kehl. The distance 
to Strasburg is nearly 4 m. From 
Kehl omnibuses constantly ply to 
Strasburg. The gate at the end of 
the bridge of Kehl is closed soon after 
sunset. 

The Rhine opposite Strasburg is 
divided into 2 branches by an island, 
upon which stands the French Custom- 
house, and (1.) a little way beyond 
it, surrounded by willows, the monu- 
ment erected to General Dessaix, in- 
scribed with the words " a, Dessaix, 
l'Armee du Rhin, 1800." The island 
is connected with the main land by a 
bridge of boats on each side. After 
passing the second bridge, the road 
passes on the S. side of the Citadel of 
Strasburg, considered a masterpiece of 
the skill of Vauban ; and, a few hun- 



548 



ROUTE 107. — STRASBURG. CATHEDRAL. 



Seet. VIII. 



dred yards beyond it, reaches the gate 
of the city, where passports are de- 
manded. If the stranger do not intend 
to remain more than 12 hrs. in the 
town, his passport is kept for him at 
the guard-house till, he returns, other- 
wise it is sent to the police. Near the 
Austerlitz gate, or Metzgerthor, by 
which the road from Kehl enters Stras- 
burg, is a milestone inscribed " Route 
de Paris a Vienne !" 

10* Strasburg (Germ.Strassburg). — 
Inns : Yille de Paris ; a handsome house, 
good cuisine ; — Eothes Haus (Maison 
Eouge), on the Grande Place, good; — 
La Fleur ; — Hotel de Metz, near the 
Bailway Stat. 

Strasburg, capital of the ancient 
province of Alsace (Elsass), is a strong 
frontier fortress, with 68,000 inhab., 
(30,000 Protestants), and a garrison of 
6000 men, even in time of peace, on 
the 111, which, on its way to join the 
Bhine, at the distance of about a mile, 
intersects the town in all directions, in 
canals. Strasburg is the Argentoratum 
of the Bomans. 

Though it has been united to France 
for more than a cent, and a half, and 
forms at present the chief toAvn in the 
Dept. du Bas Bhin, yet it bears all the 
external aspect of a German town in 
the appearance of its streets and bxmses, 
and in the costume and language of its 
inhab. Louis XIV. got possession of 
Strasburg, which was a Free Imperial 
city of the German empire, in 1681, by 
an unwarrantable attack during the 
time of peace. 

The principal and most interesting 
building in the town is the Cathedral, 
or Miinster, one of the noblest Gothic 
edifices in Europe, remarkable for its 
Spire, the highest in the world, rising 
474 ft. above the pavement; 24 ft. 
higher than the Great Pyramid of 
Egypt, and 140 ft. higher than St. 
Paul's. The artist who designed this 
admirable masterpiece of airy open- 
work was Erwin of Steinbach : his 
plans are still preserved in the town. 
He died in 13] 8, when the work was 
only half finished : it was continued 
by his son, and afterwards by his 

* The real distance is 3| in.— 6 kilom. ; 4 
kilom. extra are charged. 



daughter Sabina. The remains of this 
family of architects are interred within 
the cathedral. The tower was not com- 
pleted till 1439, long after their deaths, 
and 424 years after the church was 
commenced, by John Hultz of Cologne, 
who was" summoned to Strasburg for 
this end. Had the original design been 
carried into execution, both the towers 
would have been raised to the same 
height. A doorway in the S. side 
of the truncated tower leads to the 
summit of the spire. On the platform, 
about § of the way up, is a station for 
the watchmen, who are set to look out 
for fires (§ 43). One of them will ac- 
company any person who has permis- 
sion from the Mayor to mount the 
upper spire, and will unlock the iron 
grate which closes the passage. There 
is no difficulty or danger in the ascent 
to a person of ordinary nerve or steadi- 
ness of head ; but the stonework of the 
steeple is so completely open, and the 
pillars which support it are so wide 
apart, and cut so thin, that they more 
nearly resemble a collection of bars of 
iron or wood ; so that at such a height 
one might almost fancy oneself sus- 
pended in a cage over the city ; and, if 
the foot were to slip, the body might 
possibly drop through the open fret- 
work. At the same time, the elaborate- 
ness of the tracery, and the sharpness 
of the angles and ornaments, are proofs 
of the skill of the architect and the 
excellent materials he had chosen ; and 
it is only by a close inspection that the 
delicacy of the workmanship can be 
truly appreciated. Within a few feet 
of the top the winding stair terminates, 
under a species of carved rosette. 
Several instances are recorded of per- 
sons who have either fallen or have 
thrown themselves off the top. 

The view of the multitude of rusty- 
coloured tiled roofs of the town is not 
very pleasing ; nor is it the bird's-eye 
panorama of the rich district around, 
of the Bhine and Black Forest in 
Germany, and of the Yosges Mountains 
on the side of France, that will reward 
the adventurous climber ; but rather 
the exploit, the great elevation, and 
the near view which it affords of the 
steeple. 



Baden. 



ROUTE 107. — STRASBURG. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 



549 



Now, to descend to the body of the 
church. The exterior of the W. end 
deserves the most minute examination. 

" The gigantic mass, over the solid 
part of which is thrown a netting of 
detached arcades and pillars, which, 
notwithstanding their delicacy, from 
the hardness and excellent preservation 
of the stone, are so true and sharp as 
to look like a veil of the finest cast- 
iron, contains a circular window 48 
ft. in diameter, and rises to the height of 
230 ft. ; i. e. higher than the towers of 
York Minster." — Hope's Architecture. 

" The building," says Dr. Who well, 
" looks as though it were placed behind 
a rich open screen, or in a case of 
woven stone. The effect of the com- 
bination is very gorgeous, but with a 
sacrifice of distinctness from the mul- 
tiplicity and intersections of the lines." 

The nave was begun in 1015, and 
finished in 1275. The Romanesque 
choir is part of an older building, attri- 
buted to the time of Charlemagne. The 
most remarkable things in the interior 
are the vast and beautiful W. marigold 
window, 43 ft. in diameter ; the rich 
painted glass, executed in the 15th 
cent., filling nearly all the windows ; 
the Font in the N. transept ; the Pul- 
pit of carved stone (date 1487) ; and 
the famous Clock in the S. transept, 
made by a living artist of Strasburg 
to replace an older one which had 
fallen to decay. The full mechanism 
is set in motion at noon only. The S. 
transept is supported by a beautiful 
single pillar, ornamented with statues : 
above the Gothic border, which runs 
along the wall, appears a statue of the 
architect of the Minster, Erwin of 
Steinbach, carved by himself : he is 
interred here, and in 1835 his family 
tombstone was discovered in the little 
court behind the chapel of St. John. 

The Guild of Freemasons has existed 
at Strasburg since . the foundation of 
the Minster, and is the parent of the 
lodges throughout Germany. 

The Frauenhaus, once a nunnery, 
near the Minster, has an elegant Go- 
thic winding-stair of stone, and some 
curious sculpture. 

The Ch. of St. Thomas, appropriated 
to the use of a Protestant congregation, 



contains the Monument of Marshal Saxe, 
the masterpiece of the sculptor Pigalle, 
erected to his memory by Louis XV. 
It represents the general descending 
with a calm mien to the grave, while 
France, personified in a beautiful fe- 
male figure, endeavours to detain him, 
and at the same time to stay the 
threatening advance of Death. It is 
looked upon as a very successful effort 
of the chisel . there is a tenderness of 
expression about the female figure 
which is truly charming. Schopflin, 
and a brother of the pastor Oberlin, are 
buried in this church ; and there are 
one or two other small monuments. 
Two bodies, said to be of a Count of 
Nassau- Saarwcrden and his daughter, 
are shown, on account of the wonder- 
fully perfect state in which flesh and 
clothes have been preserved after the 
lapse of more than a cent. This is 
truly a disgusting spectacle. 

The Academie Boy ale, originally a 
Protestant school, founded 1538, raised 
to the dignity of a university in 1621, 
but suppressed at the Revolution, has 
produced several remarkable scholars, 
as Schopflin, Oberlin, Schweighauser, 
&c. : here also Gothe completed his 
studies, and took his degree of Doctor 
in Laws, 1772. His residence at Stras- 
burg is admirably described in his auto- 
biography. The Academy possesses a 
Museum of Natural History, which ranks 
far higher than the common average of 
provincial collections. It is very com- 
plete in the productions of Alsace, and 
especially in the fossils of the gres bi- 
garre ; and there is a large series of 
the fossil plants discovered at Sulz les 
Bains and Muhlhausen. The botanical 
collection contains the section of the 
trunk of a silver fir, from the Hoch- 
wald, near Barr; its diameter was 8 
ft. close to the ground, its height 150 
ft. There are many other specimens 
of woods preserved in such a manner 
as not only to interest the botanist, 
but to be useful to the practical man, 
to the carpenter and the like, by showing 
the texture and quality of the timber. 

The Public Library, of more than 
100,000 vols., boasts of many literary 
curiosities : the principal are, the 
" Landsberg Missal" of Herrade, Ah- 



550 



ROUTE 107. STRASBURG. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Sect. VIII. 



bess of Hohenberg, richly and co- 
piously decorated with illuminations 
and miniatures in the early Byzantine 
style, executed in 1180 ; a missal, 
written on purple vellum in silver let- 
ters ; many early printed books ; Cicero, 
printed by Faust, 1465; a Bible, 
printed at Strasburg, 1466, by Egge- 
stein; Mentelin's Bible, printed here 
in the same year. 

The earliest attempt at printing was 
made at Strasburg (about 1436) by 
John Gutenberg, who finally brought 
his invention to perfection at Mayence. 
Peter Schoffer, who assisted him^ and 
made many improvements, particularly 
in the casting of metallic letters, was a 
citizen of Strasburg. A bronze statue 
has been erected to him in a small 
'place near the Cathedral. The pose 
and drapery are bad. A bronze statue 
of Gutenberg by David has been set up 
in the Place Gutenberg. 

Persons interested in military mat- 
ters will be disposed to visit the 
Arsenal of a fortress so important as 
Strasburg : it contains fire-arms for 
155,000 men, and 952 pieces of cannon, 
412 of which, are required for the de- 
fence of the town and the citadels. 
There is a cannon foundry here, and one 
of the largest depots of artillery in 
France. By means of large sluices, 
constructed in the time of Louis XV. 
by Vauban, at the spot where the 111 
enters the town, the country around 
Strasburg, between the Rhine and the 
111, can be laid under water, and the 
city rendered unapproachable by an 
army, and almost impregnable. 

The Seminaire is a huge and hand- 
some edifice, close to the cathedral : it 
was originally the bishop's palace. 

There is a good provincial Theatre 
here, near the square called Broglie, 
from a governor of Alsace of that 
name : a very splendid Synagogue was 
erected, in 1834, by the Jews. It is 
curious to contrast the present with the 
former condition of that people in this 
city. Nowhere did they suffer more 
cruel or tyrannical persecutions. The 
street called Brand Strasse (Fire- 
street) was so named because, on the 
spot where the Prefecture now stands, 
a bonfire was made, in 1348, to burn 



the Hebrews ; and 2000 of that de- 
voted race, accused of having poisoned 
the wells and fountains, and thus caused 
the plague which desolated the city 
about this time, were consumed in the 
flames. From henceforth no Jew was 
allowed to live within the walls ; and 
the summons of a horn, blown every 
evening from the Minster tower, com- 
pelled them all to depart. 

The body of General Kleber (a 
native of Strasburg), originally in- 
terred in the Minster, has been re- 
moved to a vault in the centre of the 
Place d'Armes (Paradeplatz), and a 
monument has been erected over it. 

Strasburg is famous for its Pate's 
de foies gras, made of the livers of 
geese, which are enlarged to an un- 
natural size by the cruel process of 
shutting the birds up singly in coops 
too narrow to allow them to turn, and 
stuffing them twice a day with maize. 
They are generally kept in a dark 
cellar, and the winter is the season for 
fattening them, coolness being essen- 
tial. There is such a coop in almost 
every house in the town. Sulphur is 
steeped in the water given to the birds 
to increase their appetite. Instances 
are known of a goose's liver which had 
attained the weight of 2 or even 3 lbs. 
Hummel, No. 9, Rue des Serruriers, is 
said to make good pates. 

The gates of Strasburg are shut at 
10 o'clock, after which neither ingress 
nor egress is allowed. 

The principal Promenade is the 
Ruprechtsau, an extensive space laid' out 
in walks and gardens, beyond the walls. 

Malleposte, daily to Paris in 30 hrs., 
and diligence in 42 through Nancy (the 
Strasburg and Paris Railroad opened 
from Strasburg to Sarrebourg, and from 
Ban-le-Duc to Paris) — -to Lyons (Malle- 
poste, in 27 hrs.) — to Landau in 12^ 
nrs. (See Handbook for France.) 

The Ban de la Boche, the scene of th 
pastor Oberlin's beneficent life and 
labours, is about 30 m. S.W. of Stras- 
burg. (See French Handbook.) 

Bailroads to Basle — see Handbook 
for France — from Kehl to the Great 
Baden Railway — to Sarrebourg. 

Steamers descend the Rhine from 
Strasburg to Mannheim and Mayence 



Baden. 



ROUTE 107- — OFFENBURG TO CONSTANCE. 



551 



daily. (Rte. 102.) From Strasburg 
to Mannheim you go nearly as quickly 
by river as by rail (including 1 br. to 
and from the stations), viz. in 6^ hrs., 
but it takes 2 long days to mount up- 
wards from Mayencc. 

ROUTE 108. 

OFFENBURG TO SCHAFFHAUSEN AND 



CONSTANCE, 



BY THE KINZIGTHAL 



AND DONAUESCHINGEN. 

22 Germ. m. = 102 Eng. m. to Schaff- 
bausen. Thence to Constance, 6-^ Germ, 
m. = 30 Eng. m. 

Eilwagen daily from Offenburg to 
Schaffhausen in 15^ hrs., and to Con- 
stance in 19J hrs. 

Offenburg — Inn, Die Fortuna (Etc. 
105, p. 538)— is situated at the entrance 
of the valley of the Kinzig. This stream 
descends from the Black Forest, and 
joins the Rhine at Kehl. The scenery 
at its upper extremity is very pleasing, 
though inferior to that of the Hollen- 
thal (Rte. 109). 2 m. beyond Offenburg, 
near the pretty village of Ortenburg, 
the modern Gothic Castle of the Russian 
Baron Berkholz is conspicuous on the 1. 
of the road, upon an eminence overlook- 
ing the mouth of the Kinzigthal. 

The first small town of the route is 
Gengenbach ; it has 2000 inhab., and 
an old monastery, now secularised, 
with a fine ch. attached to it. 

2i Bieberach. The scenery from 
Bieberach to Homberg is very pic- 
turesque, almost romantic. The road 
passes through Steinbach and Hass- 
lach, on the 1. bank of the Kinzig, be- 
fore reaching 

2^ Hausach. Inn comfortable and 
clean. — F. 8. 

The ruined castle anciently belonged 
to a branch of the family of Fursten- 
berg, who were seigneurs of the town. 
A road turning off on the 1. conducts 
to the baths of Rippoldsau. (Hand- 
book, South Germany.) 

Our road, continuing to the rt., 
passes through a country which has 
quite a Swiss character. The broad- 
roofed wooden houses, the costume of 
the people, and, above all, the frequent 
occurrence of goitre, tend to increase 
the resemblance. 

IJj Hornberg. — Inns ; Post, good, 



comfortable sleeping quarters ; Bar 
(Bear). This little town is beautifully 
situated under a height, crowned by 
an old donjon keep, and at the foot of 
the main chain of the Black Forest 
range. The skeleton of these moun- 
tains is granite ; and they attain their 
greatest elevation (4616 ft. above the 
sea) near Feldberg. 

The new line of road to Triberg 
avoids a wearisome ascent and uninter- 
esting country, being carried up the 
valley of the Gutach,one of the most 
sequestered and beautiful in the Black 
Forest, and through a gorge, being 
partly hewn in the rock, to 

1^ Triberg. The posthouse (Ba- 
densche Hof), the best on the line, 
good, rather dear, is at a little distance 
from the village, of 800 inhab., which 
lies off the road in a very romantic si- 
tuation, hemmed in by high precipices, 
from one of which, 1^- m. distant from 
the inn, a pretty waterfall descends. 
Triberg is the centre of a manufacture 
peculiar to the Black Forest, that of 
wooden clocks, exported to the number, 
it is said, of 200,000 yearly, under 
the name of Dutch clocks, not only 
throughout Europe, but even to Ame- 
rica and China. The sulphm'- coloured 
straw-hats worn by the peasantry are 
also made here. Beyond Triberg there 
is a steep ascent. 

The Briegach, one of the head- 
waters of the Danube, rises within a 
short distance of 

1^ St. Georgen. Here is a Bene- 
dictine convent of great antiquity, one 
of the focuses of the civilization of the 
surrounding district. It was biirnt by 
a Duke of "Wurtemberg because the 
monks refused to adopt the Reforma- 
tion, but was soon succeeded by ano- 
ther. Ruins of the old convent exist. 
The new road, which is excellent, ends 
at Peterzels, about a mile beyond St. 
Georgen. An almost continuous de- 
scent leads to 

2 Villingen — Inn, Sun (Post) — a 
market town, 3600 inhab., surrounded 
by bleak hills. It has the appearance 
of having been built on the site of a 
Roman encampment. It is a square 
crossed by 2 main streets at right an- 
gles, one passing through the centre of 



552 



ROUTE ]07. — DONAUESCHINGEN. BLUMBEB.G. 



Sect. 



YllL 



the square, the other somewhat on one 
side of it. There are 4 gates, one at 
each end of these streets. 

About 4 m. E. of Villingen, near a 
village called Swenningen, is the Source 
of the Neckar. This is indeed a land 
of fountains and of watercourses ; and 
though the height of the mountains is 
not great, and they have no glaciers or 
perpetual snow, yet the reservoirs of 
the Black Forest feed with large sup- 
plies the two principal rivers of Eu- 
rope. The flakes of winter snow which 
descend upon some of the ridges, nay, 
even the drops of rain falling on oppo- 
site sides of a house, in some situations, 
are destined to end their career at the 
two opposite extremities of a continent ; 
and, while part find their way to the 
German Ocean, others, which reached 
the ground within a few feet of them, 
take an opposite course, and fall into 
the Black Sea. 

2 Donaueschingen. — Inns : Schiitze ; 
Poste (Falke). This town is the chief 
place of the small Landgraviate of 
Baar, and contains 3053 inhab. The 
principal building is the Palace of the 
mediatised Prince of Fiirstenberg, a 
plain modern edifice. 

In a corner of the garden, and be- 
tween the walls of the palace and the 
church, is a round basin filled with 
clear sparkling water, which may be 
seen bubbling up from the bottom. 
Its waters, running out of the basin, 
are conducted for about 50 yds. in a 
subterranean channel into the Brieg- 
ach, which from that point receives 
the name of the Danube. This little 
basin, under the castle window, goes 
by .the name of the Source of the Da- 
nube. The real origin of that river 
seems to have been involved in a por- 
tion of the same mystery which con- 
ceals the source of the Nile. The 
claims which the basin in the court- 
yard has to be considered the source 
are, that the name of Danube is not 
given to the river until the waters of 
this little rill are received into it, and 
that the. two upper streams, the Brege, 
whose fountain-head is at the solitary 
chapel of St. Martin, about 5 m. N."W. 
of the village of Furtwangen, and 25 
m. from Donaueschingen, and the 



Briegach, rising near the convent of 
St. George, 20 m. off, in spite of the 
previous length of their course, are 
both liable to be exhausted by drought, 
until supplied by the rill from the cas- 
tle garden of Prince Fiirstenberg. 

The whole country round Donaues- 
chingen may be compared to a wet 
sponge, so abundant and numerous are 
the sources of water in springs, rills, 
ponds, and marshes, all of which go to 
swell the tide of the Danube. About 
a mile out of Donatieschingen, at the 
village of Hulfingen, the road crosses 
the Brege, which in regard to its previ- 
ous length may be looked on as the main 
stream of the Danube ; the Briegach 
falls into it about a mile lower down. 



Eilwagen, in 9 hrs., direct from 
Donaueschingen to Constance by Gei- 
singen (1-^ Germ. m.). Engen (2), 
where Moreau beat the Austrians, in 
1800, with a loss of 7000 men on either 
side. The height of Hohenhowen, 
an extinct volcano, once more vomited 
forth flames ; but in spite of the tre- 
mendous fire of the Austrian artil- 
lery planted on it, it was carried by the 
French. Eadolfzell(3). Constance (2^). 



In the midst of the bare open coun- 
try, interspersed with tufts of furze 
traversed on the way to Schaffhausen, a 
ruined castle is seen on a hill, with a 
village on the slope beneath it, at a 
little distance to the 1. of the road. 
This is Fiirstenberg, which gives its 
name to the principality, now media- 
tised. Biedbohringen is a small village. 

2~ Blumberg ; a desolate-looking 
post-house. 

This stage is almost entirely occu- 
pied in the ascent and descent of a 
steep hill called the Bande. The view 
from the top, near a wooden crucifix, 
is charming. On the 1. are seen . 3 
singular mountains, which from their 
shape may at once be known as ex- 
tinct volcanoes ; they are called Hohen- 
stoffeln, Hohenkrahe, and Hohen- 
twiel. Further on, in the distance, a 
wide expanse of the Lake of Con- 
stance, with the towers of Constance 
itself, backed by the snowy mountains 
of Sicitzerland, rises to view. Half 



Baden, r. 107.— schaffhausen. Constance, minstee. 



553 



way down the hill is a row of small 
houses; these are the Douane of the 
Baden frontier (§ 32). Immediately 
beyond them the traveller reaches Swiss 
ground, and the road passes through a 
little valley, completely Swiss in aspect 
as well as situation, to 

3 Schaffhausen (see Handbook 
for Switzerland). Inns : Weber's, at 
the Falls, nearly 2 m. from the town ; 
Couronne, good, and not expensive. 

There is a post-house in Schaff- 
hausen, which supplies horses on the 
road to Constance. The relays are 

1J Randegg. Here is the Baden 
custom-house. 

Near Singen {Inn poor and extor- 
tionate) you pass at the foot of Hohen- 
twiel. The castle is now dismantled. 
The lofty rock upon which it stands gives 
it the appearance of an Indian hill fort. 

2^ Radolfzell (Post-house, a very 
good inn), a desolate town situated 
at the extremity of the branch of the 
Lake of Constance called Unter See, 
with a fine cJu, in the true German 
Gothic style. " In the broad part of 
the Rhine, where it is still rather a 
lake than a river, is the Isle of Reich- 
enau, anciently famed for a monastery, 
founded by one of the successors of 
Charlemagne, of which the Ch. (partly 
Romanesque) and Treasury remain. 
In the Treasury are to be seen, the shrine 
of St. Fortunata, an ivory ciborium, a 
cope, a crozier, and a missal of the 10th 
cent."— F. 8. 

The scenery of the road which runs 
along the L bank of the Rhine from 
Schaffhausen to Constance is more 
pleasing than the above road, but there 
are no post-horses on it. 

Petershausen, on the rt. bank of the 
Rhine opposite Constance, was origin- 
ally a free abbey of the empire. 

The Rhine here, suddenly contracted 
from a lake to a river, is crossed by a 
wooden bridge into 

2i Constance. — Inns: Brochct 
(Hecht), best and very good, looking 
over the lake, with very attentive 
landlord, Mr. Keppler, who is an ac- 
complished fisherman, and has excel- 
lent rods, nets, punts, and all appliances 
for fishing, trolling, &c, which he 
lets out on moderate terms. He has 
[N. g.] 



also very extensive water privilege in 
and around Constance. Hotel De- 
lisle, outside the territory of the 
Customs League ; Post (Goldner 
Adler — Aigle d'Or), good. 

Constance, a decayed city of 5200 
inhab., instead of 40,000, which it once 
possessed, is remarkable for its an- 
tiquity, since its streets and many of 
its buildings remain unaltered since the 
15th cent. Although situated on 
the L or Swiss bank of the Rhine, it 
belongs to Baden. It is connected 
with the opposite shore by a long 
wooden covered bridge, and occupies 
a projecting angle of ground at the W. 
extremity of the Bodensee, or lake of 
Constance ; its agreeable position and 
interesting historical associations make 
amends for the want of life perceptible 
within its venerable walls. It has of 
late, however, revived considerably; 
the government have formed, at a large 
expense, a port on the lake, which fa- 
cilitates the navigation, while it is an 
ornament to the town. 

The Minster is a handsome Gothic 
structure, begun 1052, with fine open- 
work turrets in the W, end ; the doors 
of the main W. portal between the two 
towers are of oak, curiously carved 
in compartments, with a representation 
of the Passion of our Lord, executed 
in 1470 by one Simon Bainder. The 
nave is supported by 16 pillars, each 
of a single block, 18 ft. high, and dates 
from the 13th cent. ; it is flanked by 
circular arches in the Romanesque 
style, and is very wide ; the aisles are 
pointed. The spot where the " Arch- 
heretic Huss" stood, as sentence of 
death by burning was pronounced on 
him by his unrighteous judges, is still 
pointed out as a stone in the centre of 
the nave near the pulpit. Robert Hal- 
lam, Bishop of Salisbury, who presided 
over the English deputation to the 
council, is buried here, in front of the 
high altar, under a tomb, which is very 
remarkable, as being of English brass ; 
which is fully proved by the workman- 
ship. It was probably sent over from 
England by his executors. He wears 
the Order of the Garter. The carved 
woodwork of the stalls of the choir is 
very fine. In the N. transept is a re- 

2b 



554 



ROUTE 108. — CONSTANCE. COUNCIL. 



Sect. VIIL 



presentation of the death of the Virgin 
in figures of life size. The crypt is of 
the 10th or 1 1th cent. Two sides of the 
ancient cloisters, whose arches are filled 
in with exquisitely heautiful tracery, 
are yet standing. The other sides were 
destroyed hy fire in 1824. In an angle 
of the cloisters is a curious circular 
building in the pointed style, in the 
centre of which is a Gothic rotunda, 
used for Good Friday ceremonies, 
which is curiously ornamented with 
Scriptural figures. 

There are some curious relics in the 
Sacristy, as, one of the arrows which 
pierced St. Sehastian, skull of St. Con- 
rad enclosed in a silver figure, piece of 
the true Cross, &c. ; also much fine 
Brabant lace, and a heautiful Gothic 
fireplace and piscina, superior to those 
at Courtray. In the Vestry-room above 
are a range of singular cupboards or 
presses of carved oak, none of a later 
date than the 15th cent. There is a 
beautiful view from the tower of the 
cathedral, E. over the lake and moun- 
tains of Tyrol, and W. over the valley 
of the Rhine. 

The Dominican Convent, now a cot- 
ton-printing establishment, is very in- 
teresting. The place is still shown 
where Huss was confined, though the 
stone chamber itself has been removed 
(at least all that remained of it) to the 
Kaufhaus. The church forms a pic- 
turesque ruin, in the early style of 
German Gothic. The chapter-house is 
even older. The cloisters are perfect. 
The little island upon which this build- 
ing stands was fortified by the Romans, 
and a portion of the wall, towards the 
lake, can yet be discerned. 

In the Hall of the Kaufhaus (built 
1388), looking towards the lake, the 
Great Council of Constance held its sit- 
tings, 1414-18, in a large room sup- 
ported by wooden pillars. That famous 
assembly, composed, not of bishops 
alone, like the ancient councils, but of 
deputies, civil and ecclesiastical, from 
the whole of Christendom, including 
princes, cardinals (30), patriarchs (4), 
archbishops (20), bishops (150), pro- 
fessors of universities and doctors of 
theology (200), besides a host of am- 
bassadors, inferior prelates, abbots, 



priors, &c, was convened for the pur- 
pose of remedying the abuses of the 
church ; and as those abuses began with 
its head, the proceedings were prefaced 
by a declaration that a council of the 
church has received, by Divine right, 
an authority in religious matters, even 
over that of the Pope. It exerted its 
influence in curbing the Papal power, 
by deposing the infamous John XXIII. 
and Benedict XIII., and by electing in 
their place Martin V. But there is one 
act of this council which fixes lasting 
and odious celebrity on it — the trea- 
cherous seizure and cruel murder of 
John Huss and Jerome of Prague, in 
spite of the safe-conduct granted to the 
former by the Emperor Sigismund, the 
president of the assembly. 

The chairs occupied by the Emperor 
and Pope ; the Bible of Huss ; a model 
of the dungeon, now destroyed, in 
which he was confined, of the same 
size as the original, and in which the 
actual door and other fragments have 
been incorporated ; a car which is said 
to be that in which he was drawn to 
execution ; the figure of Abraham which 
supported the pulpit in the Minster, 
and which the people mistook for Huss, 
and defaced accordingly; and some other 
relics of the council, still remain in the 
hall, besides a collection of Roman and 
German antiquities, dug up in the 
neighbourhood, 
admission. 

The house in which Huss lodged, 
bearing a rude likeness of him, is 
pointed out in the Paul's Strasse, near 
the Schnetzthor. He was thrown into 
prison, soon after his arrival, in the 
Franciscan Convent, now a ruin, whence 
he was removed to a more irksome 
dungeon, affording scarcely room to 
move, in the before-mentioned Do- 
minican Convent. 

The field outside of the town, in the 
suburb of Briihl, in which he suffered 
martyrdom, with a fortitude which 
moved even his judges and executioners 
to admiration — nay, even the place 
where the stake was planted, — are still 
pointed out : rude images of Huss and 
Jerome, formed of clay taken from the 
spot, are offered for sale to the stranger. 

In 1415 a perpetual treaty of peace 



1 F. fr. is charged for 



Baden. 



ROUTE 109. FREIBURG TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. 



555 



(signed at Aarberg, 24 July, 1415) 
was negotiated at Constance, between 
Sigismund of Austria and the Swiss 
Confederation, which, put an end to the 
contest for the liberty of the Swiss can- 
tons, which began with the fight of 
Morgarten (15 Nov. 1315), and was 
decided by that of Sempach (9 July, 
1386). Behind the Hecht inn, and 
distinguished by an elegant Gothic bay 
window, is the house in which the 
Emperor Sigismund lodged. Constance 
belonged to the crown of Austria from 
1549 to 1805, when, by the treaty of 
Presburg, it was transferred to Baden. 
Since 1802 it has ceased to be a bishop- 
ric. The spirit of industry is reviving, 
and several manufactories of cotton, 
two of muslin, and one of silk, have 
recently sprung up. 

2 interesting Excursions may be made 
hence — to Reichenau (p. 553) and 
Meinau. The island of Meinau, about 
4 m. N. of Constance, is one of the 
prettiest private residences in Ger- 
many. It is well cultivated, yet with 
no want of trees, forming a nice little 
estate. The palace is very large ; it 
was once a commandery of the Knights 
of the Teutonic Order, and retains a 
series of their portraits, and some good 
pictures of Miss Ellenried. From the 
balcony or from the terrace of the 
garden there is a magnificent view over 
the lake, of the mountains of the 
Vorarlberg and Appenzell, among which 
the Sentis is pre-eminent. Nearer at 
hand the cultivated German shores, 
with the towns of Morsberg, Fried- 
richshafen, &c, complete the picture. 
Meinau now belongs to the Countess 
Langenstein : it is approached by a 
wooden foot-bridge J m. long, connect- 
ing it with the shore ; there is an inn 
on the island. 

Diligences daily to Zurich, in 8^ hrs. ; 
Schaffhausen, in A\ ; St. Gall, in 5 ; 
Donaueschingen, in 8 ; and Freiburg, 
in 17. 

Steamers daily between Constance 
and the different ports of the lake. 
They correspond with the diligences to 
Milan at Rorschach, with the Eil- 
wagen for Stuttgart at Friedrichshafen, 
and with that to Augsburg and Munich 
at Lindau — thus maintaining a daily 



communication between Constance and 
these cities. / 

A steamer also to Schaffhausen in 
3 hrs., returning in 6, every day from 
April to October. 

The Lake of Constance is described 
in the Handbook for Switzerland. 

ROUTE 109. 

FREIBURG IN BREISGAU TO SCHAFF- 
HAUSEN BY THE HOLLENTHAL. 

11 Germ. m. = 51 Eng. m. Eilwa- 
gen daily, — one direct in 11 hrs. ; the 
other, which makes a detour by Do- 
naueschingen, in 14J hrs. A new road 
from Freiburg to Schaffhausen has been 
for some time projected. Although the 
distance is so small, the stages are so 
very tedious and hilly that at least 
13 hrs. are occupied on the road tra- 
velling post, exclusive of all stoppages ex- 
cept the time spent in changing horses. 

The valley of the Dreisam, com- 
monly known as the Hollenthal, or 
Valley of Hell, is at its commencement 
near Freiburg a level and fertile plain 
of considerable width, bounded by 
gently sloping wooded hills. As you 
ascend, it gradually contracts, and, 
about 9 m. from Freiburg, assumes a 
character of romantic beauty and 
grandeur. Its charm lies in the rich 
foliage of the woods covering its steep 
sides, out of which project buttresses 
and pinnacles of bare rock, at the foot 
of which runs the Dreisam, bordered 
with turf and studded with frequent 
water-mills. Even here, its scenery, 
though wild, exhibits none of those 
horrors which its name would seem to 
imply. It extends to Steig. Perhaps 
the most remarkable spot is that called 
the Hirschsprung. 

f Burg. Through this valley Mo- 
reau executed his famous retreat of the 
Black Forest, with an army, in 1796, 
and gained by it as high a reputation 
for military talent as he would have 
acquired by a victory. The French 
Marshal Villars declined attempting 
this pass in 1702, saying he was "not 
devil enough." 

■f Steig. — Inn, Post or Stern (Star) ; 

clean accommodation and good fare, 

including capital trout, at a cheap rate. 

Immediately beyond the Star the road 

2b2 



556 



ROUTE 1JO — HEIDELBERG TO WURZBURG. Sect. VIII. 



begins to ascend a steep slope, which 
carries it out of the Hollenthal, leaving 
behind it the finest scenery. 1 fl. 12 kr. 
is paid for an extra horse up the H61- 
lensteig. The country which opens 
out beyond is called Himmelreich — 
Kingdom of Heaven ; but has no claim 
to the name except its elevation in con- 
tradistinction to the Hollenthal below. 
At the top the road divides into 2 
branches ; that on the 1. goes to 
Donaueschingen : we continue to follow 
the shortest and most direct. A small 
lake, called Titisee {Inn, Ebssle), is 
passed on the rt., and another equally 
steep hill succeeds, which must be sur- 
mounted before reaching 

If Lenzkirch. — Inns : Post, decent ; 
Cheval Blanc, good. Here many 
wooden clocks, for which the Black 
Forest is famed, are made : one may 
be bought for 4 fl. 

2 Bondorf. This village was burnt 
down in 1827. [About 18 m. from this, 
and the same from Stiihlingen, lies the 
magnificent Benedictine Abbey of St. 
Blaize, now sequestrated, and turned 
into a factory, where spinning -jennies 
and fire-arms are made. The Church, 
built by Ixnard 1768-80, is a rotunda 
of somewhat larger dimensions than the 
Pantheon at Borne. On the dissolution 
of the monastery the monks removed 
into Carinthia, taking with them the 
bones of some ancestors of the house 
of Habsburg, who had been buried in 
their abbey.] 

At the summit of the ascent which 
the road makes in this stage the Lake 
of Constance may be descried in clear 
weather. Near the end of this stage is 
the castle of Hohenlupfen, belonging 
to Prince Fiirstenberg, but inhabited 
only by a peasant. It occupies a most 
commanding position on the brow of a 
hill, at whose foot lies 

2 Stiihlingen. — Inns : Post and 
Hirsch. A little further on the Wu- 
tach, a small stream, is crossed, which 
forms the boundary of Switzerland. 

2^ Schaffhausen. — Inns : Couronne ; 
Weber's Inn at the Falls 2 m. from the 
town. (In the Handbook for Swit- 
zerland.) 

The l.-hand road, leading out of the 
Hollenthal, conducts from Steig to 



1 post — Neustadt (Inn, Post ; good), 
a town of 1500 inhab., on the Wutach. 
Here and in the neighbourhood are 
manufactured numbers of the wooden 
clocks for which the Black Forest is 
famous. The inhabitants, an indus- 
trious race, employ themselves also in 
polishing garnets and crystals, as well 
as in rearing singing birds. A very 
excellent cheese, sold as Swiss, is pro- 
duced in this district. 

1 J post — Loppingen ; — thence by 
lj Donaueschingen (Bte. 108) to 
Schaffhausen. 



ROUTE 110. 

HEIDELBERG TO WURZBURG. 

18i. Germ. m. = 85 Eng. m. 

Eilwagen daily, in about 1 5 hrs. The 
road is very well kept, but hilly and 
badly engineered. It may be posted 
in a day and a half. A Lohnkutscher 
requires nearly 2 days, and charges 
(at "Wurzburg) 20 to 22 florins, be- 
sides trinkgeld. Unfortunately there 
is no good sleeping-place half way. 
Mosbach is the best, but the distance 
thence to "Wurzburg is too great for a 
single day's journey with the same 
horses, except in the height of summer. 
There is nothing of particular interest 
on the way except the scenery within 
a few stages of Heidelberg. It is a 
charming drive along the Neckar to 
Neckar-Gemiind, where the road crosses 
the river and ascends to 

2 "Wiesbach. 

2 Aglasterhausen. 

2 Mosbach (several Inns, which ap- 
pear respectable), the most consider- 
able town on the road, prettily situated 
on a tributaiy of the Neckar. Here is 
a fine large church. 

2 Ober-Schefflenz. — Inn, Post ; bad. 

2 Buchen. 

2 Hardheim. — Inn, zum Ochsen. 

2^- Bischofsheim. — Inn, Badenscher 
Hof. " The Bavarian frontier (§ 76) 
is crossed within about 6 m. of TTiirz- 
burg. A fine view is obtained of the 
town in approaching it. It bears some 
resemblance to Prague, though very 
inferior." — Pr. F. 

4 "WtiRZBURG, in Handbook fo: 
South Germany. (Bte. 167.) 



( 557 ) 



INDEX. 



* # * In order to facilitate reference to the Routes, most of them are inserted in the Index 

twice ; thus the road from Hamburg to Berlin is also mentioned under the heud Berlin. 

* to Hamburg. Such reversed Routes are mixed in the Index with an asterisk (*) todis 

tinguish them. 



ACHEEN. 

Achekn, 537 

Adenau, 296 

Adersbach, rock labyrinth of, 
420 

Aerschot, 152 

Aglasterhausen, 556 

Ahr, river, mouth of, 265 

excursion up the valley, 

294 

Ahrweiler, 294 

Ahrbleichart wines, 295 

Aix-la-Chapeli.e, 237. Con- 
gresses of, 237. Hotel de 
Ville, 237. Cathedral, 237. 
Mineral springs and baths, 
240. New Redoute, 240. 
Theatre, Boulevard, 241. 

to Cologne, 242 

to Diisseldorf, 253 

■ * to Brussels, by Maes 

tricht and Louvain, 186 

and Namur, 177, 182 

* to Liege, by Battice, 182 

to Treves, 311 

Albendorf, 425 

Alexisbad, 394 

Alf, 307 

Aiken, 310 

Alhmaar, 65 

Alost, 118 

Alphen, 80 

Alsenz valley, 508 

Alt-Breisach, 540 

Altenahr, 295 

Altenberg on the Lahn, 501 

Alteriburg, abbey of, 253 

Altenbur« in Saxony, 471 

Altenkirchen, 317 

Alton-i, 319,323 

Alzei, 510 

Amber fishery on the Baltic, 409 

Amerongen, 84 

Amersfoort, 73 

Amsterdam, 49. Palace, 50. 
Churches, 51. Picture Gal- 
lery, 52. Charitable institu- 
tions, 54. Spinhouse, 55. 
Felix Meritis 55. Dockyard, 
58. Water-boats, 56. Manu- 
factures, 58 

■ to Broek and Saardam, 59 



ARNHEM. 
Amsterdam* to Texel and 
Helder, 67 

to Utrecht and Nijme- 

gen, 69 

to Arnhem, 72 

to Groningen and Frede- 

riksoord, 73 

to Bremen, 77 

Anclam, 401 

Andernach, 266 

Andreasburg, 393 

Angermiinde, 399 

Annaberg, 426 

Annweiler,— Castle of Trifels, 
522 

Anseremme, 192 

Antwerp, 137-1 51 . Cathedral 
anil works of Rubens, 138. 
Spire, 142. Churches — of St. 
Jacques, 143 ; St. Paul, 143 ; 
St. Andrew, 144; Augustins, 
144 ; St. Anthony, 145 ; Mu- 
seum of pictures, 145-148. 
Docks, 148. Citadel and 
siege, 149. Hotel deVille and 
Bourse, 150. Railroad, 151 

siege by the Duke of Par- 
ma, 117 

■* to London, 114 

to Rotterdam by land, 86 

■ by water, 87 

to Brussels, 152 

- * to Ghent, 136 

■ to Turnhout, 151 

Apollonarisberg, 263 
Appeldoorn, 77 
Appenweier, 537 
Arbergen, 398 

Ardenne, seat of King Leopold, 

192 
Ardennes, the forest of, 192 
Argenfels, 265 
Arkona in Riigen, 404 
Arlon, 189 
Arminius, colossal statue of, 

377 
Armourivs : 

Berlin, 344 

Dresden, 450 

Kvbach, 527 

Wartburg, 430 

Arnau, 422 



BATHS. 

Arnhem, 71 

* to Utrecht, 69 

to Cologne, 232 

Arnsberg, 368 

Arnstadt, 478 

Arnstein Schloss, 503 

Arolsen, 369 

Artevelde, James] and Philip 

van, 131 
Assche, 119J 
Assen, 75 

Assmanshausen, 283 
Ath, 109 
Audenarde, 107 
Auerbach, 528 
Auevstadt, 434 

Backarach, 279 

Bacon, Lord, on Travel, ix 

Baden, duchy of, 528, 536 

Baden-Badi'N, 541. Inns,541. 
Beauties of situation, 541. 
Hot springs, 542. New 
Schloss, Secret Tribunal and 
its dungeons, 54:i. Church, 
544. Convent, 546. Con- 
versation shaus, 543. Phy- 
sicians, Post Office, 545. 
Excursions around ; Alte 
Schloss, 545. Ebersteinburg, 
Liclitenthal, 545. Gernsbach, 
546. Murjjthal, 547. 

to Wildbad, 547 

* to Carlsruhe, 541 

to Strasburg, 547 

Badenweiler, 540 

Baggage, 208 

Ballenstadt. 393 

Ban de la Roche, 550 

Barmen, 368 

Bastei, The, 462 

Bastogne, 197 

Baths : 

Aix-la-Chapelle, 240 

Alexisbad, 394 

Baden-Baden, 541 

Bertrich, 299 

Briickenau, 428 

Dobberan, 328 

Ems, 482 

Hof Geismar, 382 

Homburg, 505 



553 



INDEX. 



BATHS. 
Baths : 
Liebenstein, 473 

Liehewerda, 416 

Putbus, 402 

Pyrmont, 383 

Reinerz, 424 

Salzbrunn, 422 

■ Sehandau. 464 

Soheveningen, 36 

Sehlangenbad, 488 

— — Schwalbach, 486 

Svvinemiinde, 400 

Warmbrunn, 418 

Baumanns and Biels-Hohle,392 

Bautzen, 415 

Bavarian (?) broom girls, 378 

Beemster in N. Holland, 68 

Belgium, 89. Introductory in- 
formation, 89-102. General 
view of, 94. Passports, 89. 
Money, 90. Posting, 90 ; 
other modes of travelling, 
92. Railroads, 92. Cities 
of, and architecture, 96 

Bensheim, 5i8 

Berg, ancient duchy of, 368 

Bergen-op-Zoom, 88 

Bergen, 404 

Bergtfrasse, b2h-b9,9 

Bergues, 112 

Bermn, 332. Inns,332. Post- 
office— droskies, 332. So- 
ciety in, 333. Unter den 
Linden, 333. Brandenburg 
gate, 333. Monuments, 
334. Churches, 335. Royal 
Palace, 336. Kunst cabinet, 
336. King's private resi- 
dence, 338. Museum, vases, 
and bronzes, 339. Sculptures, 
339. Pictures, 340 - 342. 
Boyal Library, 343. Uni- 
versity, 344. Museum of 
natural history, 344. Egyp- 
tian Museum, 342. Arsenal, 
344. Iron-foundry, 345. The 
Gewerbe Schule, 345. Thea- 
tres, 346. Music, Sing-Aea- 
demie, 346. Coliseum, 346. 
Winter gardens, 346. Res- 
taurateurs, 346. Confection- 
ers, 347. Best shops, 347. 
Post-office, 347. Environs, 
347 Tegel, 347. Tivoli and 
Kreuzberg, 348. Park, 348. 
Reviews, 349. 

* to Hamburg, 330 

to Potsdam and Leipzig, 

349, 353 

to Dresden, 35R 

— — * to Diisseldorf, by Hesse 
Cassel and Elberf'eld, 367 

* to Hanover, 3.38 

* to Cologne, by Minden, 

358 

* by Magde- 
burg, Rrunsvvick, and Pader- 
born, 370 

to Stettin and Swinemiin- 

de, 399 



BRASSES. 

Berlin to Danzig, 404 ; and 
Konigsberg, 407 

to Bromberg, 410 

to Frank fiirton-the-Oder 

and Breslau, 411 

to the Riesengebirge, 

H irschberg, and Warm- 
brunn, 416 

Bernau, 399 

Bernburg, 356 

Berncastel, 306 

Bertrich baths, 299 

Betuwe, 84 

Beverungen, 396 

Beverwijk, 65 

Biherich, 289 

Bielefeld, 359 

Biervliet, 116 

Biesbosch, 82 

Bingen Loch, 283 

Bingkn, 284. St. Roch's Cha- 
pel, 285 

excursions from, 285 

to Mayence, by Ingel- 

heim, 506 

to Mayence up the Rhine, 

286 

to Kreuznach and Saar- 

briick, 507 

to Treves, 316 

* to Coblenz, 286 

Birkenfeld, 509 
Biscliofsheim, 556 
Bischofswerda, 415 
Bitburg, 313 
Black Forest at Baden, 545 

the Kinzig, 551 

sources of the Danube in, 

552 
Blaize, St., abbey of, 556 
Blankenau, 396 
Blankenburg, 392 
Bleichert wine, meaning of, 

295 
Blouse, use of a, xxvii 
Bliicher, 413. His grave, 421 
Bode, 393 
Bodenfelde, 396 
Bodenwcrder, 397 
Bois-le-Duc, 87 
Bommel, 83 
Bondorf, 556 
Bonn, 258. University, 259. 

Museum, 259. PoppeLsdorf, 

259. Kreuzberg, 260 
to the valley of the Ahr, 

294 

to the Eifel, and Lake of 

Laach, 296 

Boppart, 2~6. 
Borcette, 241 
Borsdorf apples, 438 
Bouillon, 194 
Boulder stones, 330 
Bouvijjnes, 191 
Braekel, 372 
Braine le Comte, 194 
Brandenburg, 353 
Brasses, engraved monumental, 
at Bruges, 122. At Liibeck, I 



BRUSSELS. 

326. AtStralsund, 402. Nij" 
megen, 72 

Braubach, 275 

Brauneberger wine, 306 

Breda, 86 

Brederode, 65 

Brege river, 552 

Breisach, Alt, 540 

Bremen, 374. Territory and 
commerce, 375. Bleikeller, 
Rathhaus, 3*5. Bremerha- 
fen, 376. 

* to Diisseldorf, 372 

* to Hamburg and Olden- 
burg, 330 

* to Amsterdam, 77 

Breslau, 413. Churches, 414. 
University, 414. Commerce, 
wool fairs, 414 

* to Dresden, 415 

to the Riesengebirge, 416 

. to Glatz and Prague, 424 

to Schweidnitz and Land- 
shut, 421 

* to Berlin, 411 

to Cracow, 425 

to Vienna, 426 

Brieg, 425 

Briegach, 552 

Brielle, 24 

Brilon, 369 

Brockedon's Advice to Travel- 
lers, xiii 

Brochen, ascent of, 391. Spec- 
tre of the, 391. Witches, 391 . 
View from, seldom seen, 
392 

Broek, 61 

Brohl, trass mills of, 265 

valley of, 265, 296' 

Bromberg, 410 

to Dantzig and Berlin, 

410 

Broom girls, 378 

Briickenau baths, 428 

Briickenberg (Norwegian Ch.), 
419 

Bruchsal, 534 

Bruges, 121. Les Halles, 125. 
Churches, 121. Paintings 
of Hemling at, 123, 124. 
Hotel de Ville, 123. Aca- 
demy, 124. Palais de Jus- 
tice, 124 

*to Calais, 114 

to Courtrai, 136 

to Ghent. 126 

Brunnen of Nassau, 482-495 

Brunslierg, 372 

Brunswick, 362. New Palace, 
36?. Museum, 362. Albert 
Diirer's St. John in the Wil- 
derness, 363. Cathedral, 363. 
Black Brunswickers, 363. 

to Berlin, by Magdeburg. 

358. 

Brussels, 155-169. Park, 156. 
King's Palace, 156. Palace 
of the Prince of Orange, 156. 
Chambers, 156. Museum, 



INDEX. 



559 



BRUSSELS. 

156. Library, 157. Hotel 
de Ville, 158. Broodhuis, 
158. Cathedral of St. Gudule, 
158. Notre Dame de Cha- 
pelle, 159. Shops, 161. Lace, 
161. Theatre, cafes, post- 
office, 160. Diligences, 161. 
Promenades and environs, 
161. Excuision to Waterloo, 
161 ; to Tervueren, 183 

Brussels * to Calais, by Lille, 
102-104 

- *to Malines and Ant- 
werp, by railroad, 152 

to Waterloo, Namur, &c, 

162 

to Liege, by Louvain, 

182 

to Aix-la-Chapelle, by 

Maestricht, 186 

to Monsand Valenciennes, 

194 

"Bubbles," utility of the, 485 

Biickeburg, 360 

Buhl, 537 

Bunzlau, 412 

Burg, 353 

Burtscheid, 241 

Biitgenbach, 311 

Butzbach, 378 



Cadsand, 115 
Calais, 102 

to Brussels, by Lille, 102 

to Courtrai, by Dunkirk, 

Ypres, 110 
to Ostend and Bruges, 

114 
to Charleroi and Namur, 

188 
Camperdown, 64 
Canals in Holland, 12 
Canal, Great, of North Hol- 
land, 60 
Garden, 308 
Carlsruhe, 535. Its origin, 

palace, 535. Bleithurm,535. 

Theatre, other buildings, 

535 

to Baden, 541 

to Strasburg, 547 

to Basle, 538 

* to Heidelberg and 

Frankfurt, 538 
Carriage travelling, xxiv 
Carriages, duty on, 102 
Cassel in France, 1 1 1 
Cassel, Hesse, 379. Palace 

museum, 379. Pictures, 380. 

Marble bath, 381. Wil- 

helmshohe, 381 

to Berlin, 367 

to Hanover, 330, 382 

to Gottingen and the 

Harz, 386 

* to Diisseldorf, 367 

* to Frankfurt, 378 

to Eisenach and Mei- 

ningen, 473 
[W. G.] 



COLOGNE. 

Castel on the Rhine, 290, 
507 

Castles on the Rhine, 280 

Caub, 279 

Caxton, William, 245 

Celle, 329 

Charlemagne's grave, 238 

Charlemont, 192 

Charleroi, 188 

Charles V., 133 

Charlottenburg, 348 

Chaudfontaine, 178 

Chemnitz, 470 

Chimes, or carillons, 97 

Chokier, 172 

Churches, English, abroad, — 
Rotterdam, 27. Amsterdam, 
51. Ghent, 134. Brussels, 
161. Baden, 545. Ham- 
burg, 323. 

Circles of Germany, 210 

Circular notes, xvi 

Clans! hat, 388. School of Mines, 
388. Reservoirs, smelting- 
houses, 289 

CI eves, 235 

Clothes for travelling, xxvi 

Cobern, 310 

Coblenz, 269-274. Fortifica- 
tions of, 269. Good head- 
quarters for travellers on the 
Rhine, 271. Church of St. 
Castor, and fountain, 270. 
Courts of justice, 271. I lea- 
asnt excursions from, 272 

to Mayence, up the Rhine, 

274 

to Miinster-Maifeld and 

Elz, 31 1 

to Treves, by post-road, 

298 

, * up the Mo- 



the 



selle. 305 

to Frankfurt, by 

Brunnen of Nassau, 482 

Coburg — describerl, 475 

* to Eisenach, 474 

*to Gotha and Gottingen, 

475 

* to Leipzig by Rudol- 

stadt, 476 

Cochem, 308 

Coins, tables of foreign, xxxix 
— xiiii 

Cologne, 244. Cathedral, 246. 
Shrine of the three kings, 
247. Dom-bild, 248. Church 
of St. Peter, and Rubens' 
Crucifixion, 248. Church 
of St. Ursula and 11,000 Vir- 
gins, 249. Santa Maria, 249. 
St. Gereon, 250. Museum 
of pictures, 251. Eau de 
Cologne, «52 

to Frankfurt, by Siegburg 

and Limburg, 3 1 6 

to Altenberg Abbey, 253 

* to Aix la-ClMpelle, 242 

to Bonn and Coblenz, up 

the Rhine, 254 



DEVENTER. 

Cologne* to Diisseldorf, 253 
to Berlin, by Elberfeld, 

367 

to Berlin, by Minden, 353 

to Brunswick, 370 

to Hanover, 358 

* to Nijmegen and Rot- 
terdam, by the Rhine, 232 
* by land, 

235 
Commissionaire, xxviii 
Constance — described, 553. 

Minster, 553 

council of, 554 

* to Schaffhausen, 555 

Continent, landing on the, 

xxviii 
Conz, 190 
Copernicus at Frauenburg, 

408 
Corneli-Miinster, 311 
Corvey, 372, 397 
Cuthen, 356 
Couriers, xxi 

at Calais, 104 

Courtrai, 1 13 

Cracow, 426, and S. Germ. 

Handbook 
Crefeld, 236 
t'udowa, 425 
Cus, 306 
Custom-houses abroad, xxviii. ; 

in England, xxix 

of Prussia, 228 

Ciistrin, 404 
Cuxhaven, 319 



Dahn, 523 

Danube, source of the, 552 

Danzig, 405. Granaries, ca- 
thedrals, 405. Picture by 
Van Eyck, 405. Arthus Hof, 
fortifications of, 406. Duke 
of, 406 

to Marienburg and K>>- 

nigsberg, 407 

— * to Berlin, 404 

* by Brom- 



berg, 410 

Darmstadt, 523. Catholic 
church, palace, pictures, 
524. Fossils, 524. Theatre, 
Exercier Haus, 524. Gar- 
dens, Casino, wild boars, 
525 

to the Odenwald, 523 

to Heidelberg and Carls- 
ruhe, 523 

* to Frankfurt, 523 

Daun, 315 

Delft, 28 

Dendermonde or Termonde 
railroad, 135 

Dennewiiz, 354 

Dessau, 355 

Detmold, 377 

Deutz, 252. Good inn, 244 

Deux Ponts, 523 

Deventer, 77 

2b 3 



560 



IWDEX, 



DETNZE.. 

Deynze, 107 

Diebelich, 319 

Diepholz, 374 

Dietz, 502' 

Dinant, 191 

to Givet, 192 

to Hanssur-Lesse, Bouil- 
lon, 192 

Dinglingen, 538 

Dirschau, 405, 407 

Dixmude, 114 

Dobberan, 328 

Doesburg, 85 

Dollars, Prussian, 228 ; Saxon, 
427 

Dolme, 397 

* Donaueschingen, source of 
Danube, 552 

- l to Sehaffhausen, 552 

* to Oft'enburg, 551 

to Freiburgj 555 

Donnersberg, 510 

Dort, or Dordrecht, 81 

Synod of, 81 

Dortmund. 358- 
Douai, 106 
Drachenfels, 262 
Dreiser- Weiher, 315 
Dresden, 440. Post-office, 

441. Elbe bridge, 442. 
Churches and church music, 

442. Terrace of Briihl, 442. 
Palace, 442. Collections — 
mode of obtaining admis 
sion, 443. Green Vault, 

443. Picture "gallery, 445. 
Plaster casts, 449. Zwinger, 
450. Rustkammer, or ar- 
moury, 450. Museum of 
natural history, 453. En- 

5 ravings and drawings, 454. 
apanese palace, 454. An- 
tiquities, 454. Porcelain, 
456. Library, 456. Thea- 
tre, 457. Clubs, shops, 457. 
Environs, 458. Moreau's 
monument, 458. Dance of 
Death, 458. Baths of Link, 
459. Schiller's summer- 
house, 459. Weber's house, 
459. 

Dresden to the Saxon Swit- 
zerland, 460-467 

* to Berlin, 358 

to Breslau, 415 

* to Leipzig and Frank- 
furt, 42*, 439 

to the Bastei, 461 

1 * to Schandau, 4 65 

. to Hof, 467 

to Plauensche Grund and 

Tharand, 467 

Driburg, 372 

Duisburg, 233 

Dunes of Holland, 15 

Dunkirk, 111 

to Bruges, 114 

Diiren, 243 
Diirkheim, 521 
Durlach, 534 



ERZGEBIRGE. 

DiissET.ooRF, 234. School of 

painting, 234 
to Berlin, by Elberfeld, 

367 

to Cologne, 235 

* to Nijmegen and Arn- 

hem, 232 
to Bremen, by Miinster, 

372 

*to Rotterdam, 235 

Dutch manners, peculiarities 

of, 18 
Dutch clocks, 551 
Dutch school of art, 17 
Dykes of Holland, 8 



Eberbaeh, 288, 490. Cellars of, 
288 

Eberstein, Neu, 545 

Ebernburg, Sickingen's Castle, 
508 

Echternach, 313 

Eckhardsberge, 434 

Ehrenbreitstein, 271 

Ehrenberg, 310 

Ehrenfels, 283 

Eibenstock, 473 

Eifek the Upper, 31 4 

the Lower, 296. Inhabit- 
ants of, 314 

excursions in, 296 

Eisenach, 429. Wartburg-, 429 

Eisleben, Luther's birthplace, 
370 

Elbe, mouth of the, 318. 
Sources of, 420. In Saxony, 
the most beautiful parts of 
its course, 460 

from Schandau to Dres- 
den, 465. 

Elberfeld, 367 

to Berlin, 367 

to Hanover, 329 

* to Cologne, 370 

Elbing, 407 

Elbinjjerode, 392 

Electors of Germany, 21 1 

Elfeld, 289 

Eltville, 289 

Elz, castle of, 309 

Emden, 77 

Emmendingen, 538 

Emmerich, 233 

Ems, 482 

to Frankfurt, 482 

Engen, 552 

Engers, 267 

(Westphalia), 359 

Enghien, 110 

Enghien, Duke, his treach- 
erous seizure, 538 

Enkhuisen, 68 

Eppstein, 504 

Erbach, 288 

Erbach in the Oldenwald, 526 

Lrdmannsdorf, 420 

Erfurt, 431 

Erpeler Lei, 264 

Erzgebirge, 472 



FREIBERG, 
Ettenheim, 538 
Extersteine, 376 
Extra post, 203, 229 
Eyck, Van, school of, 9§ 

Faintings of, at Berlin, 341. 

At Ghent, 1 29 

Fachmgen, 503 

Falkenlei, 299 

Falkenstein, 504 

Fees of Prussian physicians, 

221 
Fehrbellin, 331 
Feldberg, 505 
Fire-watch, 223 
'- ischbach, 420 
Fischbeck, 397 
Flemish School of Painting, 

98-102 
Floreffe, 188 
Flushing, 116 
Fontenoy, 109 
Franehimont, 178 
Franeker, 76 
Frankenstein, 424 
Frankenthal, 514 
Frankfurt on the Main,. 

495-501. Inns, Old and New 

Town, 495. Cathedral, 495. 

Romer, 496. Saalhof, 496. 

Stadal Museum of pictures, 

497. Senkenherg Museum, 

498. Danneker's statue of 
Ariadne, 498. Public li- 
brary, birthplace of Gothe 
and of the Roths.hilds, 498. 
Jews, 498. Diet, 499. Thea- 
tre, casino, - 500. Shops, 
public gardens, 500. New 
cemetery, 5oo. Fairs, 499. 
Offenbach, 501 

to Leipzig, by Gotha, Er- 

furth, Weimar, 428 

to Cassel and Berlin, 

378 

to Cassel and Hanover, 

378 

* to Coblenz and the 

Brunnen of Nassau, 482 

* to Mayence, 506 

* to Homburg and the 

Taunus, 503 

to Basle, by Darmstadt, 

Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, 523 

to Baden - Baden, ard 

Strasburg, 541, 547. 

Frankfurt on the Oder, 412. 

to Breslau, 411 

to Hirschbergand Warrn- 

brunn, 416 

Frauenburg, 40S 

Frederick the Great, at Rheins- 
berg, 331. Relics of, at Ber- 
lin, 337. His tomb and 
sword, 350. His palace of 
Sans Souci, 351. His death, 
351. 

Frederiksoord, pauper colonies 
of, 73 

Freiberg, 468. Church, 468. 



INDEX. 



561 



FREIBURG. 

School of Mines, 469. Mines 

and miners, 469 
Freiburg in Breisgau, 538. 

Beautiful Minster, 539. Uni- 
versity, 539 
to SchafThausen, by the 

Valley of Hell, 555 

to Basle, 540 

Freiwaldau, 425 
Freyr, 192 
Friedberg, 378 
Friedrichsstein, 266 
Friedland,Wallenstein's castle, 

417. 
Friesdorf, 260 
Friesland, 76 
Fulda, 428 
Furnes, 114 
Fiirstenberg, 396 
Fiirstenberg, 552. Palace of 

Prince, 552 
Fiirstenstein Castle, 422 



Gadebusch, 331 

Geilnau, 503 

Geisenheim, 287 

Geldern, 236 

Gelnhausen, 428 

Genappe, 168 

Georgen, St., 551 

Gera, 447 

Germany. — Preliminary in- 
formation, 197-226. Pass- 
ports, 197. Inns, 198. Ta- 
bles-d'hute, 199. Beds, 200. 
Valets-de-place, 200. Cus- 
tom-houses, 201. Modes of 
travelling, 203. Schnell- 
posts, 205. Voiturier, 206. 
Peculiarities of German 
manners, 213. Public gar- 
dens and taverns, 215. 
Kirmes, 216. Turnpike- 
men, 217. Handwerksbur- 
schen, 217. Watering-places, 
218. Towns, 223, Burial- 
grounds, 225. 

German doctors' fees, 221 

Germevsheim, 520 

to Strasburg, 520 

Gernrode, 394 

Gernsbach, 546 

Gerolstein, 3 ! 5 

Gheel, 152 

Ghent, 126-135, Belfry, 128. 
Church of St. Bavori, 128. 
Paintings of Van Eyck, 128, 
University, 130. Hotel de 
Ville, 131. Museum, 131. 
Marche au Vendredi, 131. 
The English at Ghent, 132. 
Charles V., 133. Citadel, 
134. Beguinage, 134. By- 
loque, 134. House of Cor- 
rection, 135 

* to Bruges, 120 

to Antwerp, 136 

* to Calais, 110 

* to Oudenarde, 1 06 



HAGENOSSEN. 
Ghistelles, 114 

Giessen, — University, &c„ 378 
descent of the Lahn from, 

501 
Gillenfeld, 316 
Gitschin, 422 
Givet, 192 
Glandorf, 374 
Glatz, 424 
Gleiwitz, 426 
Gliickstadt, 319 
Gnadau, 358 
Goar, St., 277 
Godelheim, 396 
Godesberg, 261 
to the Seven Mountains, 

261 

to the Ahr Valley, 294 

Gogolin, 426 

Gothe, the poet's birthplace, 

498. House and collections, 

433 
Goldene Aue, 370 
Gondorf, 310 
Gorcum, 82 
Gorlitz, 4 1 5 
Goslar, 389. Cathedral and 

altar of Krodo, 390. Ram- 

melsberg, 390 
Gut ha, 430 
GSttingen, 384. University, 

384. Library and Museum, 

385 

to the Harz, 386 

* to Cassel, 384 

Gouda, 78. Painted glass at, 78 

Grafenberg, 425 

Graudenz, 411 

Gravelines, 111 

Greifswald, 401 

Grohnde, 397 

Groningen, 76 

Groschen, 228. Gute gros- 

chen, 427 
GrossGerau, 525 
Gross-Gorschen, battle of, 435 
Grolenberg, 377 
Grotius, escape from prison, 

82 
Guben, 412 
Guilders, Dutch, 2 
Gustavus Adolphus landing in 

Germany, 401. His deatti at 

Liitzen, 435. On the Rhine, 

512 
Gutemberg, the inventor of 

printing, 293 
Gutenfels, 279 
Giitersloh, 359 



Haarlem, 42. Organ, 43. Tu- 
lips, 44. Siege, 45. Lake 
of, 47 

to Amsterdam, 48 

1 to Alkmaar and H elder, 

64 

Hagelskaule, 315 

Hagen, 368 

Hagenossen, 397 



HEIDELBURG. 

Hagenow, 327 

Hague, 30-37. Binnenhof, 
30 Picture Gallery, 31. Ja- 
panese Museum, 33. His- 
torical relics, 34. Storks, 
35. Theatre, 35. House in 
the wood, 35. Schevenin- 
gen, 36 

to Utrecht, 79 

Hal, 194 

Halberstadt, 395 

Halle, 356. Salt springs, 357. 
University, 356. Orphan 
House, 357 

Halloren, 357 

Hambach, 522 

Hamburg, 319-324. Money, 
319. Costumes. 321. Build- 
ings, 321. Institutions, 322 . 
Jungfernstieg, 322. Theatre, 
322. Ramparts, 322. En- 
virons, 323 

* to London, 318 

to Liibeck, 324 

to Bremen, 330 

■ to Hanover, 329 

to Dobberanand Rostock, 

327 

to Berlin, 330 

Hameln, 384 

Hanau, 428 

Handwerksburschen, 217 

Hanover, 361. Palaces, 361, 
362. Church, 361. Library, 
361. Picture Gallery, 361. 
Leibnitz's Monument, 361, 
Waterloo Monument, ^361. 
Herrenhausen, 3*2 ^ 

to Bremen, 386 

> to Brunswick, 329 

* to Hamburg, 329 

* to Gottingen, 384 

* to Frankfurt by Cassel, 

384 

* to Berlin , 330 

* to Cologne, by Minden, 

358 

*toPyrmont, 382 

Hans-sur-Lesse, cave of, 193 

Harburg, 329 

Harlingen, 76 

Hartekamp, 45 

Harz, the, 386-390. Gene- 
ral account of, best mode of 
visiting, exaggerated de- 
scriptions of its scenery, 
386, 387. Roads, 387. 

Mines, 388, 389 

Harzburg, 365 

Harzgerode, 394 

Hattenheim, 288 

Hatto, Bishop, and the rats, 
283 

Hausach, 551 

Herstelle, 396 

Hehlen, 397 

Heidelberg, 529-534. Its 
misfortunes, 529. Univer- 
sity and library, 530. Club, 
530. Churches, 530. Olim- 



562 



INDEX. 



HEIDELBERG. 

pia Morata's grave, 531. 
Castle, 531. Tun, 531. Gar- 
den, walks, 533. Wolf's- 
brunnen, 534. Hirschgasse, 
533. Konigstuhl, 533 

Heidelberg to Carlsruhe and 
Baden, 534 

* to Schwetzingen and 

Mannheim, 514 

* to Darmstadt and Frank- 
furt, 523 

to Wiirzbnrg, 556 

Heidenmauer, 521 

Heiligenstadt, 369 

Heimberg, 280 

Heisterbach, ruined abbey of, 
261 

Helder, 66. Great dyke of, 67 

to Amsterdam, 67 

Heligoland, 318 

Hell, Valley of, 555 

Helvoetsluis, 24 

Heppenheim, 528 

Herford?359 

Herring fishery, 57 

Herrmann's Monument, 377 

Herrenhausen, 362 

Herrnhut, 422 

Herstal, 177 

Hertogensbosch, 87 

Herzberg, 358 

Heuscheuer, 424 

Hiddensoe, 404 

Hildburghausen, 474 

Hildesheim, 385 

Hillesheim, 314 

Hernnskretschen, 465 

Himchberg, 417 

Hochheim vineyards, 507 

Hochkirch, battle of, 415 

Hochstein, 464 

Hof, 472 

Hofgeismar, 382 

Hoegne, valley of, 178 

Hohensiegburg, 233 

Hohentwiel, 553 

Hohnstein, 464 

Holland, introductory infor- 
mation, 1-24. Passports, 1. 
Money, 2. Roads, posting, 
railroads, 2. Trekschuiten, 

4. General description of, 

5. Dykes of, 8. Canals, 
12, Polders, 13. Gardens, 
15. Paintings, 17. Manners 
of the inhabitants, 18. Ag-- 
riculture, 21. Herring fish- 
ery, 57 

Holland, North, 59-69 
Hollenthal, 556 
Holzappel, 503 
Holzminden, 397 
Homburg, Hesse, 505 

in Rhenish Bavaria, 511 

Hoorn, 68 

Horn, 376 

Hornberg, 551 

Houtt'alize, 189 

Hougoumont, 166 

House in the wood, Hague, 35 



KONIGSHuTTE. 

Hoxter, 372, 382 

to Pyrmont, 382 

Hoya, 398 

Hubbad, 537 

Hubertsburg, 439 

Hubert, St., 193 

Hudibras, Author of, account 
of Hollmd, 8 

Hundsriick, 316 

Huss, John, trial and execu- 
tion of, 554 

Huy, 171 

Igel, Roman monument at, 
304 

Ilmenau, 479 

Ilsenburg, 391 

Ingelheim, palace of Charle- 
magne, 506 

Inns and Innkeepers, xxx. 

Interment, prevention of pre- 
mature, 226 

herlohn, 368 

Jager, the Wild, legend of, 

527 
Jauer, 413 
Jemappes, 196 
Jena, University, 478 
Johann-Georgenstadt, 473 
Johannisberg, 287. Wine, 287 
Juliers, 253 
Jung-Bunzlaw, 422 
Jiiterbog, 354 

Kahla, 477 

Kaiserslautern, 511 

Kaiserswerth, 233 

Kamburg, 476 

Kampen, 85 

Kandrzin, 426 

Karlsberg, 425 

Karlshafen, 382, 396 

Katwijk, the Rhine at, 41, 84 

Katzbach, 413. Battle of the, 
413 

Kehl, 547. Steam-boat from, 
520 

Kellburg, 314 

Kemnade, 397 

Kenzingen, 538 

Kidrich, 289 

Kiel, 324 

Kinzig, valley of the, 551 

Kircheim Boland, 510 

Kirmes, 216 

Klausthal, 388 

Klopstock's grave, 323. Birth- 
place, 395 

Kolberg, 401 

Koln, 243 

Konigsberg, 408. . Cathedral, 
408. University, 409. Pil- 
lau, sturgeon and amber 
fishery, 409 

to Tilsit and Memel, 410 

to Danzig and Berlin, 

410 

Koniggratz, 425 

Konigshiitte, 426 



LEIDEN. 

Konigstein in Saxony, 466 
Konigstein in the Taunus, 

504 
Konigsstuhl, 275 
Konigswinter, 261 
Korlin, 401 
Komer's grave, 331 
Kosel, 426 
Kosen, 434 
Kothen, 356 
Kreutzers, 481 
Kreuzberg, near Bonn, 260 
Kreuznach, 507 

to Worms by Alzei, 5 1 4 

Kriblowitz, grave of Bliicher 

at, 421 
Knhstall, 464 
Kuilenburg, 84 
Kunersdorf, battle of, 412 
Kiistrin, 404 
Kyll river, 315 
Kynast, castle and legend, 

419 



Laach, Lake of, 296. Excur- 
sion to, 256, 296. Abbev of, 
297 

Laeken, palace of, 155 

Lahn, the river, mouth of, 274. 
Descent of, from Giessen to 
Ems, 501 

Lahnstein, 275 

Ln?idau, 522 

Landeck, 424 

Landsberg, 405 

Landshut, 420 

Landskron, castle of, 512 

Landstuhl, 511 

Langenbriicken, 534 

Langen-Schwulbach, 4S6 

Languages, value of foreign, 
to the traveller, xv. 

La Trappe, 151 

Lauban, 416 

Lauenhurg, 330 

Lauenforde, 396 

Lavfzettel, 204 

Lausitz, Lusatia, 415 

Leau, 186 

Leer, 77 

Leeuwarden, 76 

Lehrte, 329, 362 

Leipzig, 436. Fairs, 436. 
Book-trade, 436. Univer- 
sity, 437. Auerbach"s cellar, 
437. Gardens, 438. Battle 
of, 438 

* to Berlin, 353 

to Dresden, 439 

* to Frankfurt, 428 

to Carlsbad, by railway to 

Altenburg, 471 

to Coburg, 476 

Lek, 83 

Lemgo, 377 

Leopoldsliafen, 520 

Lfiden, 37. Siege of, 37. 
University, 39. Museum of 
Natural History, 39. Egyp- 



INDEX. 



563 



LICIITENFELS 

tian Museum, 39. Japanese 
Museum, 40 

Lichtenfels, 76 

Liebeneck, 276 

Liebenstein, 276 

■ Baths in the Thiiringer 

Wald, 473 

Liebethaler Grund, 462 

Liebewerda Baths, in Bohe- 
mia, 416 

Liebfrauenmilch, 513 

Liege, 173. Coal-mines, 173. 
Bishop's palace, 173. Lo- 
calities and events of Quen- 
tin Durward, 175. Univer- 
sity, 174. Walloon dialect, 
175 

to Chaudfontaine and 

Spa, 177 

to Aix la-Chapelle, by 

Verviers, 177 

* to Louvain, 182 

* to Namur, 1 70] 

Liegnitz, 413 

Liere, 152 

Lilienstein, 463, 466 

Lille, 105 

to Brussels, 106 

Lillo Fort, 1 1 7 

Limburg in Belgium, 182 

Limburg on the Lahn, 502 

Limburg on the Lenne, 368 

Linnaeus's residence in Hol- 
land, 45 

Linz on the Rhine, 264 

Lippe Detmold, 377 

Lissa. battle of, 413, 

Lobau, 415 

Lobshorn, Stud at, 377 

Loevestein, Giotius's prison, 82 

Lohnbedienter, 200 

Lohnkutscher, 206 

London to Rotterdam, 24 

to Ostf-nd, 119 

to Antwerp, 114 

to Hamburg, 318 

Loo, the, 77 

Lorch, 280 

Lorsch, 528 

Losheim, 3^2 

Louvain, 183, Magnificent 
Hotel de Ville, 183. Cathe- 
dral, 1S4. University, 184. 
Tower of .Tansenius, 185 

to Maestricht and Aix- 

la-Chapelle, 186 

■ to Liege, 1 82 

— — * to B, ussels, 186 

Lowenberg, 417 

Lubeck, 324-327 

Liiben, 41 1 

Ludwigslust, 331 

to Schwerin and Dobbe- 

ran, 331 

Luneburg, 329 

Lurlei, 278 

Luther at l'i§leben,370. Mag- 
deburg, 3fi«. Erfurt, 432. 
"Wittenberg, 354. Capture 
of, 474. At Coburg, 475. 



MAYENCE. 

His beech-tree, 474. Worms, 

514. Wartburg, 429 
Lutter, 372 
Liittich, 1 73 
Lutzen, 435. The Swede's 

Stone, 435. Campaign of 

1813, 435 
Liitzerath, 299 
Luxemburg, 189 
* to Namur, 189 



Maars, or crater lakes, of the 
Eifel, 314 

Maas, 24 

Madenberg, 522 

Maestrichi, 186. Citadel and 
caves of the Pietersberg, 187. 

to Aix-la Chapelle, 186 

* to Brussels, 186 

Magdeburg, 365-367. Forti- 
fications, 365. Cathedral, 
366. Gardens, 366. Luther 
at, 366 

* to Berlin, by railroad, 

349 

* to Hanover and Cologne, 

358 

— * to Nordhausen and the 
Harz, 394 

* to Brunswick and Pa- 

derborn, 370 

to Wittenherge, 398 

Magdespiung, 394 

Mainz, 290 

Ma/ines, 153. Cathedral, 153. 
Paintings, 153. Church of 
Notre llarae, 154. Lace, 
154 

Malmedi, 314 

Malplaqnet, 195 

Mannheim, 515. Its history, 
515. Has few objects to 
detain travellers, 516. Pa- 
lace, gardens, theatre, club, 
516 

to Heidelberg and Schwet- 

zingen, 516 

to Spires, 517 ; and Stras- 

burj,', 520 

to Deux Ponts, by Lan- 
dau, 520 

Maps, travelling, of Germany, 
203 

Marburg, 378. Church of St. 
Elizabeth, 379 

Marceau, monument of, 268 

Marche en 1 amenne, 189 

Marhnburg on the Vistula, 
4 07 

Marienbnri) on the Moselle, 
307 

Marken, isle of, 69 

Marksburg, 275 

Marvel, Andrew, verses on 
Holland, 8 

Maye-n, 298 

Mayence. 290-294. Cathe- 
dral, 2 ( w. Public gardens, 
292. Tower of Drusus, 



MUIDEN. 

theatre, 292. Museum, 292. 

Printing invented here, 293. 

Gutemburg's statue, 293 
Mayenck* to Coblenz and 

down the Rhine, 274 
*to Bingen by Ingelheim, 

506 
to Frankfurt, by railway, 

506 
to Mannheim and Heidel- 
berg, 511-520 

to Metz, 510 

by the Rhine to Worms, 

Mannheim, Spires, and 

Strasburg. 511 
Measures, Foreign, Table of, 

xliv 
Mechlin, 153 
Medemblik, 68 
Meerfelder Maar, 315 
Meinau, isle of, 555 
Meinburg, 376 
Meiningen, 474 
Meissen — Cathedral, 440 ; 

china manufactory, 439i 
Meissner mountain, 369 
Melibucus, 525 
Memel, 410 
Mendig quarries, 297 
Menin, 113 
Meppel, 73 
Merseburg, 435 
Metternich, birthplace of 

Frince, 270. Castles, 308 
Mettlach, 510 
*Metz to Mayence, 510 
Meuse, the river, from Namur 

to Liege, 171 
from Namur to Dinant 

and Givet, 1 90 
Middelburg, 116 
Minden or Miinden, 360. 

Battle of, 360 
Money, best mode of taking 

abroad, xvi. Tables of fo- 
reign, with the English value, 

xxxix-xliii 
Monriikendam, 69 
Mons, 195 

*to Brussels, 194 

Monfabaur, 502 

Montjoie, 311 

Montjardin, 181 

Montroyal, 307 

Moritzburg, 357 

Mosbach, 556 

Mosklle river, junction with 

the Rhine, 2H8. Ice on the, 

269. Descent of, 305-311. 

Wines, 305. Steamers on 

the, 304 
Moselkern, 309 
Mosehveiss, 311 
MnuscTon, 1 14 
Mouse Tower, 283 
Mi'ililberg, 439 
Mi'ihlheim on the Ruhr, 233, 

358. 
Miihlliausen, 475 
Muiden, 72_ 



564 



INDEX, 



HtjNDEN. 

Miinden, 384 

Munster, 372. Anabaptists, 373 
to Osnabruck and Bre- 
men, 374 

to Detmold, 377 

Miinster-Maifeld, 298 
Muskau, 415 
Murg, valley of the, 546 
My Uncle Toby, 136, 170 



Naarden, 73 
Nachod, 425 
Nahe, river — mouth of, 283. 

Excursion up the, 507 
Namur, 170. Cathedral, 170. 

Church of St. Loup, 170, 

Citadel, 170. Cutlery, 170. 

to Dinant and Givet, 190. 

to Liege, 170 

to Luxemburg and Treves, 

189 
Nassau — Coins — Posting, 

480, 481. Castle of, 485. 

Baths and Brunnen, 482, 

494 
Nauheim, 378 
Naumburg, 434 
Nechar, source of, 552 

at Heidelberg, 533 

Nenndorf, 360 
Neuendorf, 278 
Neufahrvvasser, 406 
Neu-groschen, 427 
Neumagen, 306 
Neustadt- Kberswalde, 399 
Neustadt an der Haardt, 521 
Neuss, 236 
Neuwied, 267 
Nicholas, St., 137 
Niederselters, 488 
Niederwald, the, 285 
Nienburg, 386 
Nierstein vineyard, 512 
Nieuwport. 84 
Nieue Diep, 66 
Numegen, 71. Arrival, 83. 

Inns at, 71. 

* to Amsterdam, 71 

* to Rotterdam, 80 

to Cologne by the Rhine s 

232. 

by land, 235 

Nimptsch, 424 
Nivelles, 168 
Nonnenwerth, 263 
Nordernei Isle, 376 
Nordhausen, 369 

to Halle, 370 

to Magdeburg and the 

Harz, *94 
Novdheim, 388 

Norwegian church of wood, 4 1 9 
Niirburg, 296 

Oberhoff, 476 
Oberlahnstein, 275 
Oberstein, 509 
Ober-Ursel, 505 
Obprwpsel. 278 



PICTURE GALLERIES. 

Odenwald, excursion in the, 

525-527 
Oderberg, 426 
Oederan, 470 
Offenbach, 501 
Offenburg, 538, 551 
to Schaffhausen, by the 

vale of the Kinzig and Do- 

naueschingen, 551 
Oggersheim. 515 
Ohlau, 425 
Ohr, 397 
Ohrdruff, 476 
Oker, vale of, 389 
Oldenburg, 330 
Oldendort, 397 
Oliva, 406 
Omer, St., 104 
Oppeln, 425 
Oppenheim, beautiful Gothic 

church, 512 
Oschatz, 439 
Oschersleben, 365 
Osnabruck, 374 
Ostend, 1 1 9 

■ to Bruges and Ghent, 120 

*to Calais, 1 14. 

Osterode, 388 
Otterberg, 511 
Ottersweier, 537 
Ottensen, 323 
Ottowalder Grund, 462 
Oudenarde, 107 



Paderborn, 371 

Pallien, 304 

Paschenburg, 360 

Passow, 399 

Passports — Necessity of, and 
mode of obtaining, xvii. 
French, xx. Prussian, xx. 
Austrian, xx. Belgian, xx. 
Dutch, 1. English and Fo- 
reign Consuls', xxi. English 
Secretary of State's, xxi. 

Paulinzelle, 477 

Paysde Waes, 136 

Perck — Teniers' house, 155 

Pfahlgraben, 493 

Pfalz, 279 

Phillipsburg, 519 

Physicians' fees in Germany, 
221 

Picture Galleries : — 

Amsterdam, 52 

Antwerp, 1 45 

Berlin, 340 

Bruges, 124 

Brunswick, 362 

Brussels, 156 

Cassel, 380 

Cologne, 251 

Darmstadt, 524 

Dresden, 445 

Frankfurt, 497 

Ghent, 1 3 1 

Hague, 31-33 

Hanover, 361 

■ Louvain, 184 



RAILROADS. 

Pietersberg, near Maestricht 
caves of, 187 

Pillnitz, 461 

Pirmasens, 523 

Pima, 467 

Pisport, 306 

Platte, the, 495 

Plauen, 472 

Plauensche Grund, 467 

Polders, 13. In N. Holland, 68 

Polle, 397 

Poniatow skv's death, 436 

Poppelsdorf, 260 

Porta Westphalica, 359 

Posen, 411 

Posting — in France and Bel- 
gium, 90 ; in Germany, 203 ; 
in Prussia, 229 ; in Saxony, 
427 ; in Nassau, Hesse, &c, 
481 

Potsdam, 350-362. Tomb of 
Frederick the Great, 350. 
Palace, 350. Sans Souci, 35 1 . 
New Palace, 352. Russian 
colony, 353 

to Magdeburg, 349 

to Dresden, 358 

* to Berlin, 349 

Prebisch Thor, 465 

Prenzlow, 399 

Priessnitz' Water Cure Estab- 
lishment, 424 

Prum, 312 

to Gerolstein and Spa, 314 

Prussia — Passport, xx. New 
custom-house system, 228. 
Money of, 228.* Travelling 
in, 229. Posting in, 229. 
Inns, 231 

Prussian commercial league, 
201. 

Putfendorf's birthplace, 470 

Pumpernickel, 368 

Purmerende, 69 

Putbus baths, 402 

Pyrmont, v atering-place, 383. 
Mineral springs, 383. Gas 
Grotto, 383 

to Hanover, 382 

*to Frankfurt, 378, 382 

*to Cologne, 358 

Quatre Bras, 169 
Quedlinburg, 395 
Quentin Durward, 175 

Radolfzell, 553 

Rafts on the Rhine, 255 

Railroads on the Continent: 

Amsterdam to Haarlem, 

Leiden, the Hague, and 
Rotterdam, 42, 46" 

Amsterdam to Utrecht 

and Arnhem, 69 

Belgian, 92, 120, 152, 155 

Mechlin to Li< a ge and 

Aix-la-Chapelle. 177, 182 
Aix la Chapelle to Co- 
logne, 237 




RAILROADS. 

,roads on the Continent : 

- — Mayence to Frankfurt, 
294, 500. 

— Berlin to Potsdam, 349 
■ to Kothen and 



Leipzig, 353 

to Stettin, 399 

to Frankfurt 



the Oder, 411 
— Breslau to Cracow, 425 
to Vienna, 426 



on 



— Cassel to Eisenach, 473 

— Diisseldorf to Elberfeld, 
367 

— Brunswick to Wolfenbiit- 
tel and Harzburg, 365 

— Brunswick to Hanover,329 

— Brussels to Namur, by 
Charleroi, 188 

— Magdeburg toLeipzig,438 

— Leipzig to Dresden, 439 
— toHof, 471 

to Carlsbad, 472 



Frankfurt to Mayence and 

Wiesbaden, 495, 506 
Mannheim to Heidelberg, 

517 
-— — Frankfurt to Heidelberg, 

523 
Heidelberg to Carlsruhe, 

Baden, Strasburg, and Basle, 

523, 534 
Rammelsberg mines, 390 
Rastadt, Palace, 536. Con- 
gresses of, 536 
Ratibor, 426 
Batzeburg, 324 
Rehme, 359, 397 
Reichenbach, 415, 471 
Reichenberg, 423 
Reichenberg Castle, 278 
Reichartshausen Schloss, 288 
Reinerz, 424 
Reinhardsbrunn, 431 
Remagen, 264 
to Ahrweiler and Alten- 

ahr, 294 
Reynolds, Sir J., description 

of the Dutch school, 17 

School of Rubens, 99 

pictures at the Hague, 31 

at Amsterdam, 52 

■- at Antwerp, 139- 



148 



at Cologne, 248 



Rheenen, 84 

Rheineck, 265 

Rheinfels, 276 

Rheingau, 280 

Rheingrafenstein, 508 

Rheinsberg, 331 

Rheinstein, castle of New, 281 

Khense, 275 

The Rhine, mouth of, at Kat- 
wijk, 41, 84 

(A) in Holland, 80-88 

— ; — ascent of, not recom- 
mended, 80 

Waal branch, Rotterdam 

to Nijmegen, 80 



INDEX. 

RilGEN. 

The Rhine, Lek branch, Rot- 
terdam to Arnhem, 83 

IJssel branch, 85 

(B) from Nijmegen to 

Cologne, 232-235 

(C) Cologne to Coblenz, 

254 

Byron's description of, 254 

; a German account of, 255 

Rafts on, 255 

Scenery of, 257 

best mode of seeing, 257 

(D) Coblenz to Mayence, 

274 

scenery near Bingen, 284 

castles, 280 

wines and vineyards, 281, 

286 

(E) from Mayence to 

Strasburg 511-520 

■> scenery dull, 511 

gold washed from its 

sands, 520 

caution as to taking places 

in the steamers direct from 
London, 257 

Richard Cceur-de-Lion's pri- 
son, 522 

Riesa, 439 

Riesengebirge, 416-422. Ge- 
neral account of the, 416. 
Sketch of a tour in, 417 

Rinteln, 397 

Rochefort, 193 

Rodenstein Castle, 527 

Roderberg, 263 

Rogers on Travel, x 

Rolandsaule, 375 

Rolandseck, 263 

Roneberg, 478 

Rosenau, Prince Albert's birth- 
place, 475 

Rossbach, 435 

Rossla, 376 

Ro*strappe, 393 

Rostock, 328 

Rotterdam, 25-28 

to Hague and Amster- 
dam, 28 

to Gouda and Utrecht, 78 

to Nijmegen, by the Waal, 

80 

to Arnhem by the Lek, 83 

ascent of the Rhine from, 

85 

Roubaix, 107 

Roulers, 136 

Riibeland, 392 

Rubens's chair, 145. Birth- 
place, 252 

chateau at Steen, 155 

pictures at Ghent, 131 

Antwerp, 139, 



565 



145 



school 

99 
Rudesheim, 286. 
Rudolstadt, 477 
Rugen, isle of, 401 



— Cologne, 248 
and character of, 



Wine, 286 



SIEG RIVER. 



Ruhrort, 233' 
Ruhr valley, 233 
Rumpchen, 295 
Ryswyk, 30 

Saalfeld, 477 

Saarbriicken, 509 

Saardam, Peter the Great's 
house, 63 

Saarlouis, 510 

Sagan, 412 

Sagard, 403 

Salm-Dyck, 253 

Salzbrunn, 422 

Salzig, 276 

SansSouci, 351 

Sassbacb, death of Turenne, 537 

Saventhem, Vandyck's adven- 
ture at, 1 82 

Saxon Switzerland, 460-467 

Saxony, 427-479. Money 
427. Posting, 427 

Sayn Valley, and iron-works 
of, 268 

* Schaffhausen to Freiburg, 555 

# — to Offenburg, 

551 

Schandau, 464 

■ to Dresden, 465 

Schaumburg Lippe, 360 

Schelde, 115 

Scheveningen, 36 

Schiedam, 28 

Schierstein, 289 

Schlangenbad, 488 

Schlayen, 171 

Schleusingen, 479 

Schlusselburg, 398 

Schmalkalden, 474 

Schmiedeberg, 420 

Schneeberg, 472 

Schneekoppe, 419 

Schnellposts, 205 

Schonberg, or Schomberg, 278 

Schonecken, 312 

Schonbornlust, 268 

Schoonhoven, 84 

Schrock, 520 

Sehulpforta, 434 

Schwalbach, 485. " The Bub- 
bles," 485. Springs, 486. 
Excursions, 487 

Schwarzenbeck, 330 

Schwarza, 477 

Schwarzburg Castle, 477 

Schwedt, 399 

Schweidnitz, 421 

Schwelm, 368 

Schwerin, 327 

Schwetzingen, 516 

Seesen, 372 

Setters, 488 

Seltzer water, 488 

Sembach, 511 

Senner Wald, 377 

Seraing, 172 

Seven Mountains, 262 

Sidney, Sir Philip, 85 

Siebengebirge, 260, 262 

Sieg river, 258 



566 



INDEX. 



SIEGBURG. 

Siegburg, 316 

Silberberg, 424 

Silesia, 412, 416 

Singen, 553 

Sinzig, 265 

Skeleton tours, xxxii-xxxvii 

Schmollen, 478 

Sobernheim, 509 

Soder, 386 

Soest, 370 

Soignies, forest of, 162 

Solingen, 367 

Sombreffe, 169 

Sonnenberg — its singular ma- 
nufactures, 477 

Sorau, 412 

Spa, 179. Mineral springs, 179, 
Redoute, 179, Caves near, 
181 

* to Liege, 177 

- to Verviers, 181 

to Malmedi and the Eifel, 

313 

Spandau, 331 

Speier, 517 

Speyk, Van, 118 s 

Spires, 517-519. Its eventful 
history, 517. Atrocities of 
the French, 518. Cathedral, 
518. Antiquities, 519. Alt 
portal, Retscher, 519 

to Strasburg. 511, 519 

* to Mayence, 511 

Sprottau, 412 

Stadtkyll, 314 

Staffelstein, 476 

Stargard, 410 

Starkenburg, 307 

Stavelot, 31 4 

Steamboats, list of, xxvii. 

London to Rotterdam, 24 

■ Antwerp, 1 14 

Ostend, 119 

■ Hamburg, 318 

Rotterdam to Nijmegen, 

up the Rhine, 80 

Amsterdam to Hamburg, 

59 

Cologne to Coblenz and 

Mayence, 258 

■ Liibeck to St. Petersburg, 

327 
Mayence to, Mannheim 

and Strasburg, 511 
Steen, Rubens' chateau at, 155 
Steenkerke, 195 
Steig, 556 
Steinberg vineyard and wine, 

289 
Stendal, 398 
Sterne's Advice to Travellers, 

xii 
Stettin, 400 
toS winemiinde andRiigen, 

400, 401 

* to Berlin, railroad, 399 

Stolzenau, 398 

Stolberg, 394 

Stolberg in Rhen. Prussia, 242 

Stolzenfels, 274 



TREKSCHUITEN. 

Storks in Holland, 20 

Stralsund, 402 

Strasburg, 548. Monument 
to Dessaix, 547. The Rhine 
at, 547. Minster, 548. Spire, 
548. Marshal Saxe's monu- 
ment, 549. Museum and 
library, 549. Invention of 
printing, 550. Arsenal, 550. 
The Jews' Synagogue, 550. 
Pates de foies gras, 550. Ru- 
prechstau, 550. 

to Paris in 30 hours, 550 

to the Ban de la Roche, 

550 

* to Mayence, 511 

to Schaffhausen and Con- 
stance, by Donaueschingen, 
551 

* to Baden, 547 

* to Frankfurt, by Carls- 

ruhe and Heidelberg, 528 

Striegau, 422 

Stubbenkammer, 403 

Stuhlingen, 556 

Suhl, 476 

Stultz, Baron, hospital founded 
by, 536. His birthplace, 538 

Swinemiinde, baths, 400 

to Riigen, 401 



Tables - d'hote in Germany, 
199 

Tafelfichte, 416 

Tantow, 399 

Taunus mountains, 503 

Telg^e, 374 

Tergouw, 78 

Termonde, 135 

Terneusen, 117 

Tervueren, 183 

Tete de Flandre, 137 

Texel, 67 

Thalers, kron, xxxix. 

Tharand, 467 

Thorout, 136 

Thurnberg, 276 

Tilburg, 87 

Tilly's birthplace, 169. Atro- 
cities at Magdeburg, 365 

Tilsit, 410 

Tirlemont, 185 

Titles, German, 213 

Tollliuis, 85 

Tougres, 186 

Tonnerre, Mont, 510 

Tours, sketches of, xxxii- 
xxxvii 

Tournay, 107 

Traben', 307 

Trarbach, 306 

Trass, 265 

Trantenau, 422 

Travemiinde, 327 

Travelling, maxims and hints 

for, ix-xv 
requisites for, xxvi 

Treis, 3U8 

Trekschuiten — in Holland, 4 



WALLOON. 

Treves, 299. History of, 299. 
Antiquities, 300. Cathedral, 

300. Church of our Lady, 

301. Heathen's tower, 301. 
Roman baths or White Gate, 
301. Amphitheatre, 302. 
Black Gate, 302. Bridge. 

303. Library, Codex Aureus, 

304. Igel, 304 
* to Coblenz, 298 

- down the Moselle, 



305 

* to Aix-la-Chapelle, 311 

*to Bingen, 316 

Trier, 299 

Tri fels Castle, prison of Richard 

Coeur-de Lion, 522 
Trinkgeld, 203 
Trond, St., 186 
Triberg, 551 
Turnhout, 152 
Tyrolese Protestant exiles in 

Silesia, 420 

Uevdingen, 233 

Unkelstein, 263 

Unna, 359 

Utuecht, 69. Stadhuis, 70. 

Cathedral, 70. Maliebaan, 

70 

to Nijmegen, 71 

* to Amsterdam, 69 

* to the Hague, 79 

* to Rotterdam by Gouda, 

78 
to Arnhem, 71 

Vacha, 429 
Valenciennes, 106 
Valets-de-place, 200 
Vandyk, 113, 182 
Vautsberg or Neu Rheinstein, 

2dl 
Veckerhagen, 396 
Vehm Gericht, 359 
Verden, 386 
Verviers, 181 

Vesdre, valley of the, 177, 182 
Vianden, 313 
Vianen, 84 
Victoria, Roman remains of, 

267 
Vigilantes, 94 
Villingen, 551 
Vilvorde, 155 
Virneberg Castle, 296 
Vistula, mouth of the, 406, 408 
Vlaardingen, 25 
Vlissingen, 116 
Voigtland, 472 
Voorburg, 37, 79 
Vorspann, 203 
Vreeswijk, 84 

Waal branch of the Rhine, 81 
Wageningen, 84 
Wahlstat't, 413 
Walloon language, 95 



INDEX. 



567 



WALCHEREN. 

Walcheren, 115 

Waldenburg, 422 

Walporzheim, 294 

Wandsbeck, 323 

Warbeck, Perkin, 109 

Warmbrunn — Baths, 418. River 
Zacken, 418. Kynast, 419. 
Schneekoppe, 419 

Wartburg, Luther's prison, 429 

Wassenach, 297 

Wasserglass painting, 343 

Watering-places, German, 218 

Watergueusen, 24 

Waterloo, 162-168. Plan of, 
164 

Wedigenstein, 398 

Weichsel, or Vistula, 406 

Weilburg, 501 

Weimar, 432. Palace, Library, 
433. Theatre, Churchyard, 
433. Gothe's house and grave, 
433 

Weinheim, 528 

Weiss on the Moselle, 3 1 1 

Weissenfels, 434 

Weissenthurm, 267 

Werra river, 473, 474 

Werther, scene of his " Sor- 
rows," 501 

Wesel, 233 

Weser river, 396-398 

Wespenstein, 477 

Westmael, 151 

Westphalia, 359 

West- Wesel, 87 

Wetzlar, 501. "Sorrows of 
Werther," 501 



WORLITZ. 

Wiesbaden, 491. Inns and 
baths, 491. Kursaal, 491. 
Kochbrunnen, 492. Tem- 
perature of the springs, 492. 
Roman remains, 493. Pfahl- 
graben — a wall extending 
from the Rhine to the 
Danube, 493. Museum, 
Theatre, 494. Platte, 495. 
Biberich, 495 

* to Coblenz, 491 

to Frankfurt, by railway, 

495 

to Eppstein, Falkenstein, 

and the Taunus, 503 

Wiesloch, 534 

Wijk, by Duurstede, 84 

Wilhelmsbahn, 426 

fVilhelmshohe, palace and gar- 
den, 381 

Willemsoord, 73 

Willgartswiesen, 523 

Windmills in Holland, 49 

Wines and vineyards of the 
Rhine, 281 

Winkel, 288 

Winterberg, 465 

Wismar, 328 

De Witt's death, 31 

Wittenberg, 354 

Wittenberge to Magdeburg, 
398 

Witzenhausen, 369 

Woerden, 80 

Woldenberg, 410 

Wolfenbiittel, 364 

Worlitz, 355 



ZWOLLE. 

Worms, 513. Present state 
and former greatness ; seat of 
imperial Diets, 513. Ca- 
thedral, 513 

to Kreuznach, by Alzei, 

514 

Wunstorf, 386 

Wupper, valley of the, 367 



Xanten, 236 



Yburg, 372 
Ypres, 112 
IJssel river, 85 



Zaandam, 63 

Zahringen, 539 

Zand, het, 66 

Zapfendorf, 476 

Zealand, 115 

Zeist, 71 

Zella, 476 

Zeltingen, 306 

Zittau, 423 

Zollverein, 201 

Zorndorf, 404 

Ziilpich, 243, 312 

Zutphen, 85 

Zwanziger, coin, 48 1 

Zweibriicken (Deux Ponts), 

523 
Zwickau, 472 
Zwingenberg, 525 
Zwolle, 73 



THE END. 



London: printed r.y w. clowes and sons, stamford-street. 



wTiimim 




J. &C Walker Sculp? 



ZN3EXMAF SHIA^BISOO^: fom TMArj£.'LLffl£S otr ran CO^Tjcvm 



i y 




y 









CT 



B <) R T II 



S E 



.. B 



.A 

n 



mglrfte ml 









HeJlingtnKx ■■ \'""?"\^-j S f^ 

'J 

Z f t> 



n-iuril. „ 



/ STtTTiy 



U.lrf 



•yfoiJort'L 






' uu *-M 






MQmui /~lS Birioiildj 






jniwSAme 



'"a"'"' 






" '^'p^sT^C ""'^.^A/l , \ x vr t 77^^' : 



- W l tB 



5£a 









«>„£::; 



jh$ - P "' Fr '"% A 

Ann-air ' 



If, „!..[:,!. ..!('.' 






S.lil.:i. 



rw^C T] 






^5u£ 



•''i/.,- 



repa 



«.S/>n>-y» LrvK 



V " 



,.i";-. y 



jy.i»i b 



HI* 



Mr* 



■Sw) 



. *».*#JVrv*,-i 



,,. 






■ 









i./fc 1 , r i».-M „ *JSSs '■/■ L* .-3 i> tori 

Aug»l 



,Vr>ri/.in/i>* yj^ 




j7 ftumV \ <r/,I-,. J /I l/\ ».■ ,t " ( f / ATwi ^V 5 " Villi 

// % ■<•'»■■ .-"-■„«//)/ \,y~ u ' * 4 g\ J7 



\ 








S/fstvlit* '*' 


■&? 


rutin J-^*~' 














«uLa 




^S^Li 




w-""""\ „\ 


/ ,< 




; ' i* 


=;, 






L"»°,'l™™7 I 




1 \ 


/ / f&hjinniu 


"^ 


""Pw 


.:,! 










i">^S 


/j^a^it' 




^^T^^^SiaJ 


■ 


A ^K 



"'I 






^•^.Vl^fcj^ 







\,.«to.. 7 



xnirs' ^^ 






iyjlirliui-g 



h;f,,l„ft,j 



S'.\t.Liirtri- ? 






^nthi** Vartign) 



'°^» , 



S' ftminni 



■'•"•r'""'^~-ii';;z>u 




3^°° kT j**h 



lUt&{*lbj <..!,„ M:»'n -&■"••">■ ■-'>■>■> ''■„.<.„ tess 




: MURRAY'S 

CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK 
ADVERTISER. 

1851. 

Printed/or those desirous of communicating Information to Travellers, and inserted in 

THE HANDBOOKS EOR TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT 

ISSUED DURING THE SEASON. 



*** Advertisements are received till the end of May; the Editor is not 
responsible for any statement? made in them. 



For Eight Lines . . 
Every Line additional 



.SCALE OF CHARGES 

£ s. d. 
.086 
.009 



Half a Column . . . 
A Column, or Half-page 



£ s. d. 
12 
2 2 



An entire Page £4 



INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 



BELGIUM. 

Brussels.— Sufjfell's Carriages & Horses 10 
Malines. — Breugehnans' Hotel ... 13 

GERMANY. 

Frankfort. — Tacchi's Glass Warehouse 7 

Bing's Manufactory . . 8 

Munich. — Steigerwald's Glass Rooms . 6 

De Hermann's Magazine . . 14 

Hotel Maulich 21 

Cologne. — Farina's Eau de Cologne . . 9 
Heidelberg. — Graimberg's Antiquities 10 
Bonn. — Schmitz's Golden Star Hotel . 12 
Dresden.— Wolsohn's Antiquities . . 13 

SWITZERLAND. 

Interlaken,— Ructi's Hotel Beausite . 10 

ITALY. 

Leghorn.— Dattari's Black Eagle Hotel . 13 
Dattari's Hotel Victoria . . 13 
Micali & Son's Show Rooms 18 

MriAN. — Bruschetti's Royal Hotel . . 11 



ITALY— continued. 

Florence. — Bianchini's Florentine 
Mosaic 14 

Genoa. — Schmitz's Grand Hotel ... 15 
Loleo's Silver Fillagree Work . 18 
Piedmont. — Dr. Brander's Hydropathic 

Establishment 18 

Rome.— Fabri's Print Shop 18 



MALTA. 

Steam Communication with India . 



.17 



ENGLAND. 

List of Customs' Duties 2 

Custom House Agents — McCracken . . 4 

Union Bank of London 16 

London and Westminster Bank . . .15 
Locock's Pulmonic and Female Wafers . 19 

Mechi's Dressing Cases 15 

Mr. Murray's List of Works ..... 21 

Black's Guide Books 20 

Lee's Medical Guide Books ..... 15 
Lee's Guide-Book Depot . . . ... 24 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 



LIST OF DUTIES 



PAYABLE IN LONDON ON WORKS OF ART, CURIOSITIES, ETC., 

FROM THE CONTINENT, 

ACCORDING^ TO THE LAST NEW TARIFF. 

There is an Addition of 5 per cent, on those Duties not altered oy the last New Tariff. 



The folio-wring are all 

Cattle, and all Living Animals. 
Agates and Cornelians, not being 

set nor cut. 
Bronze Works of Art. 
Bullion, Coins and Medals of all 

kinds, and battered Plate. 
Casts of Busts, Statues, or Figures. 
Cotton Manufactures, not being arti- 
cles wbolly or in part made up. 
Diamonds and other Precious Stones, 

not set. 
Flower Roots. 
Furs and Skins, not made up. 
Linen Manufactures, not being articles 

wholly or in part made up. 
Lay Figures belonging to British 

Artists, intended for their own use. 
Magna Grjecia "Ware, and Antique 

Earthen Vases, &c. 



FREE OP DTJTY:- 

Manuscripts. 

Maps and Charts, or parts thereof, 
plain or coloured. 

Mineral "Water. 

Models of Cork and "Wood. 

Olive Oil. 

Plants and Trees, alive. 

Pictures, Sketches, Drawings, or 
Sculpture, on a declaration by the 
Proprietor (being a British Subject) 
that they are of his or her perform- 
ance, and not intended for sale. 

Seeds, Garden, Forest, &c. 

Specimens of Natural History, Mine- 
rals, Fossils, and Ores. 

Sulphur Impressions or Casts. 

Telescopes. 

Vases, Ancient, not of Stone or Wood. 



On the following the Duty is 10 per cent, ad valorem :— 



Agates, or Cornelians, cut, manufac- 
tured, or set. 

Beads, Coral, Mock Pearl, and others. 

Brass and Bronze Manufactures, not 
being works of Art, such as Ink- 
stands, Candelabra, and Articles of 
Furniture. 

Brocade of Gold and Silver. 

Carriages of all sorts. 

Cashmere Shawls, and other Arti- 
cles and Manufactures of Goats' Wool. 

Catlings (Violin, Harp Strings, &c.) 
whether Plain or Silver Strings. 

China, or Porcelain Ware, painted or 
plain, gilt or ornamented, and 
Earthenware. 

Clocks and Watches (must have 
Maker's name, both on face and on 
works;. 

Colours for Painters, if manufactured, 
and Crayons. 

Copper Plates engraved, and Cop- 
per Manufactures. 

Cotton Articles, wholly or in part 
made up. 



Egyptian Antiquities, Nubian Spears, 

&c. 
Frames for Pictures, &c,. 
Furniture. 

Furs and Skins, all Articles made up. 
Japanned and Lacquered Ware. 
Jewellery. 
Lace, viz. — Thread Lace, also Lace 

made by the hand commonly called 

Cushion or Pillow Lace, whether of 

Linen, Cotton, or Silken Thread. 
Linen Articles, wholly or in part 

made up. 
Mosaic Work, small Ornaments for 

Jewellery. 
Musical Instruments. 
Perfumery. 
Scagliola Tables. 
Spa Ware. 

Steel and Iron Manufactures. 
Tiles. 
Toys. 
Turnery. 
Woollen Articles, wholly or in part 

made up. 



Plate of Gold or Silver, gilt or ungilt, in addition to 10 per cent., is liable to 

Is. 6c?. per oz. Stamp Duty. 






«*&. 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. " 3 

LIST OF DUTIES— continued. £ s. d. 

Alabaster, Sculpture of the cwt. 3 

Anchovies the lb. 2 

A equebusade Water (for the Bottles, see Wine) the gal. 1 10 4 

Books, of Editions printed prior to 1801 the cwt. 10 

„ in or since 1801, in Foreign Living 

Languages ditto 2 10 

„ in the Dead Languages, or in the English 

Language, printed out of England in or 

since 1801 - ditto 5 

(N.B.— Pirated Editions of English Works, of which the Copyright exists in 
England, totally prohibited since 1st April, 1843.) 

Books, English, printed in England (unless declared that no Excise 

Drawback was received on Exportation) the lb. 3 

Boots, Ladies' untrimmed the doz. pair 6 

„ Men's ditto ditto 14 

Shoes, ditto ditto ditto 7 

„ Ladies' ditto ditto 4 6 

Cameos for every £100 value 5 

Cigars and Tobacco, manufactured (3 lbs. only allowed for passenger's 

baggage) the lb. 9 

Tobacco, unmanufactured ditto 3 

(N.B. — Unmanufactured Tobacco cannot be imported in less Quantity than 
300 lbs., or Cigars 100 lbs in a package; but small quantities are admitted for 
Private Use on Declaration and payment of a Pine of Is. 6d. per lb. in addition to 
the Duty.) 

Coffee, Mocha, and other Foreign Coffee the lb. 4 

„ from British Possessions ditto 3 

Coins, of Copper the cwt. 10 

Confectionery, Sweetmeats, and Succades the lb. 6 

Cordials and Liqueurs (for Bottles, see Wine) the gal. 1 10 4 

Eau de Cologne, in long Flasks the flask 10 

(N.B.— If other than the ordinary long Flasks, 30s. 4d. the Gallon and the Bottle Duty.) 

Embroidery and Needlework for every £100 value 15 

Flowers, Artificial ditto 25 

Glass, Flint or Cut, Coloured and Fancy Ornamental Glass, of what- 
ever kind the lb. 2 

Glass, White Flint Bottles, not cut nor ornamented ditto 

„ Wine Glasses, Tumblers, and all other White Flint-Glass 

Goods, not cut nor ornamented the lb. 1 

Gloves, Leather (not less than 100 doz. pairs can be imported in one 

package) the doz. pair 3 6 

Maccaroni and Vermicelli " the lb. 1 

Marble, manufactured the cwt. 3 

Sculptured Stone the ton 10 

Naples Soap the cwt. 10 

Olives .' the gal. 2 

Paintings on Glass, or Figured Glass the superficial foot 9 

Paper-hangings, Flock Paper, and Paper printed, painted, or 

stained the square yard 2 

Pictures each 1 

„ and further the square foot 10 

„ being 200 square feet and upwards each 10 

Prints and Drawings, plain or coloured, single .., ditto 1 

„ bound or sewn the doz. 3 

Sausages the lb. 1 

Silk, Millinery, Turbans or Caps each 3 6 

„ „ Hats or Bonnets ditto 7 

„ „ Dresses ditto 1 10 

„ Hangings, and other Manufactures of Silk for every £100 value 15 

„ Velvets, plain or figured the lb. 9 0- 

„ „ Articles thereof ditto 10 

Stone from Malta the ton 10 

Tea the lb. 2 1 

Wine in Casks, all except Cape Wine the gal. 5 6 

„ in Bottles, „ ditto 5 6 

„ and further on the Bottles the cwt. 9 

Spirits in Casks (no Cask can be imported of less contents than 

Twenty Gallons) the gal. 15 O 

Spirits in Bottles (the additional Duty on the Bottles, as on Wine Bottles.) 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 



MESSRS. J. & R. MCCRACKEN, 

7, OLD JEWRY, LONDON, 

AGENTS, BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, 

And Agents generally for the Reception and Shipment of Works of Art 3 

Baggage, &c 9 

FROM AND TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD, 

British. Artists resident abi'oad, having 
occasion to send home their Woi'ks for 
Exhibition, or to he passed by the Academy, 
will find it advantageous to address them to 
the care of Messrs. J. and R. M c Cracken, 
whose appointment enables them to offer 
every facility. 

Parties favouring J. & R. M C C. with Con- 
signments, are requested to be particular in 
having the Bills of Lading sent to them 
direct by post, and also to forward their 
Keys with the Packages, as all Goods must 
be examined immediately on arrival. 

J. & R. M c C.keep Lachry nse Christ? and 
Marsala "Wines of first quality, also Port 
and Sherry ; and are general Importers of 
French and other Foreign Wines. 



Return their sincere acknowledgments to 
the Nobility and Gentry for the liberal 
patronage hitherto conferred on them. They 
hope, by the moderation of their charges, and 
their unremitting care in passing through the 
•Custom-House Property confided to them, to 
merit a continuance of the favours they have 
heretofore enjoyed. Their establishment 
comprises dry and spacious Warehouses, 
where Works of Art and all descriptions 
of Property can be kept during the Owner's 
absence, at most moderate rates of rent. 

J. & R. M C C. undertake to execute Com- 
missions, for the purchase of Pictures, Sta- 
tuary in Marble and Alabaster, Bronzes, &c, 
being in direct correspondence with Artists, 
Agents, and Bankers throughout the Con- 
tinent. 



THEIR PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS ARE AT 



CALAIS | 

BOULOGNE S. M.... 



PARIS 



Messrs. Chartier, Mory, & Vogue. 
Messrs. Isaac Vital & fils. 

Messrs. Chaetier, Mory, & Vogue. Mr. H. Sire. 
Mr. M. Chenue, Packer, Rue Croix Petits Champs, No. 24. 
Mons. Havet, Roulagier, 10, Rue Grange Bateliere. 
„ Petit Fils aine, id., 23, Rue de la Concorde. 
Mr. A. Chaumont, Mr. Thomas Taylor, Messrs. P. Devot & Co. 
Messrs. Horace Bouchet & Co. 
Messrs. Brochier & Guillabert. 



HAVRE 

MARSEILLES 

BAGNERES DE BI- 

GORRE, (Ilautes f-Mr. Aime'Geruzet, Marble Works 

Pyrenees) 

BORDEAUX 

GIBRALTAR 

NICE 



GENOA 

MILAN 

CARRARA 



LEGHORN 



PISA 



FLORENCE 



FLORENCE . 

VOLTERRA. 
BOLOGNA .. 
ANCONA .... 



Mr. Aime'Geruzet, 44, Allees de Tommy. 

Messrs. Archbold, Johnston & Powers. Messrs. Turner & Co. 

Messrs. A. Lacroix & Co., British Consulate. 

Messrs. Gibbs & Co. ; Mr. A. G. Barchi. 

Mr. Gomersal, British Vice-Consul. 

Messrs. Buffet & Beruto, Piazzale di S. Sepolcro, No. 3176. 

Mr. Vincenzo Livy, Sculptor. 

Messrs. W. Macbean & Co. Messrs. G. H. Gowee & Co. 

Messrs. Thomas Pate & Sons. Messrs. Henderson Brothers. 

Messrs. Maquay, Pakenham, & Smyth. 

Messrs. Giac . Micali & Fig . Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. 

Mr. M. Ristori. Mr. Joseph Guano. Mr. Henry Dunn. 

Messrs. Della Valle Brothers, Artists in Scagliola. 

Messrs. G io . Galliani & Co. 

Mr. Ferd. Peverada. 

Messrs. Huguet & Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. 

Messrs. EMM le . Fenzi & Co. Messrs. Plowden & French. 

Messrs. Maquay & Pakenham. 

Mr. Gaet . Bianchini, Mosaic Worker, opposite the C&ppella 

de' Medici. 
Mr. Antonio di Luigi Piacenti. Mr. J. Tough. 
Messrs. F m . Pacetti, Picture-frame Makers, Via del Palagio. 
Messrs. Nesti Ciardi & Co. 

Mr. F. Leopoldo Pisani, Sculptor, No 1, sul Prato. 
Sig. Ott°. Callaj, and Sig. Gius e . Cherici. 
Mr. Flavio Perotti, British Vice-Consul. 
Messrs. Moore Meeellet & Co. 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 



MESSRS. J. X R. MCCRACKEN, AGENTS— continued. 



ROME. 



MALTA , 



Messrs. Freeborn & Co. Messrs. Torlonia & Co. 
Messrs. Macbean & Co. Mr. Carlo Trebbi. 
Messrs. Plowden, Cholmeley, & Co,J 
Messrs. Pakenham, Hooker, & Co. 
Mr. Luigi Branchini, at the English College. 
CIVITA VECCHIA. "Mr. J. T. Lowe, Junr., British Vice-Consul. Mr. T. Arata. 
NAPLES f Messrs. Iggulden & Co. Messrs. W.J. Turner & Co. Messrs. 

\ Cumming, Wood, & Co. 

PALERMO Messrs. Brown, Franck, & Co. 

MESSINA Messrs. Cailler & Co. 

' Mr. Emanuel Zammit. 
Mr. J. Aspinall. 
Mr. Ferdinand Dimecii, No. 69, Strada Teatro, Valletta, Sculptor 

in Malta Stone. 
Messrs. James Soler & Co., Sculptors in Malta Stone. 
Mr. Paolo Decandia, ditto. 

Mr. P. P. Decesare, ditto. [Workers. 

Messrs. Jos h . Darmanin & Sons, 45, Strada Levante, Mosaic 

CORFU Mr. J. W. Taylor. 

ALEXANDRIA Messrs. Briggs & Co. 

CONSTANTINOPLE Messrs. C. Hanson & Co., and Mr. Black. 

SMYRNA Messrs. Hanson & Co. 

BEYROUT Mr. Henry Heald. 

ATHENS Messrs. O. Metivier & Co. 

VENICE -I Messrs. Freres Schielin. 

""I Messrs. S. & A. Blumenthal & Co. Mr. John Harris. 

TRIESTE Messrs. George Moore & Co. 

OSTEND Mr. F. A. Belleroche. Messrs. Bach & Co. Mr. St. Amoub. 

f Messrs. Gebruder Rocca, Printsellers, Unter den Linden. 

BERLIN -i Messrs. Phaland & Dietrich, Carriers. 

( Mr. Lion M. Cohn, Comm™ Expediteur. 

GHENT Mr. J. De Buyser, Dealer in Antiquities, Marche au Beurr<5, 21. 

BRUSSELS 

ATsTTWTT'TCP S Messrs. F. Mack & Co., Kipdorp, 1745. 

A " R 1 Mr.P.VANZEEBROECK,PictureDealer,&c.,RuedesR6collets,2076 

\ Messrs. Preston & Co. 

ROTTERDAM -< Messrs. S. A. Levino & Co. Messrs. L. Mayer & Co. 

(_ Messrs. C. Hemmann & Co. Messrs. Boutmy & Co. 
rnT n ,,vrr, J Mr. J. M. Farina, vis-a-vis la Place Juliers. 

^ul.uuin*. I Messrs. G™. Tilmes & Co. Mr. G. L. Kayser, Expediteur. 

MAYENCE Mr. Joseph Thuquet. Mr. W. Knussman, Cabinet Maker. 

(Mr. P. A. Tacchi's Successors, Glass Manufacturers, Zeil D, 17 
FRANKFORT O. MA Madame Veuve J. H. Stiebel, Zeil D, 30. 

(Messrs. Bing Brothers, Zeil D, 31. Mr. F. BOhler, Zeil. 
MANNHEIM Mr. Dinkelspeil. Messrs. Eyssen & Claus. 

!Mr. J. M. de Hermann, Printseller. 
Messrs. May & Widmayer, Printsellers. 
Mr. F. Steigerwald, Glass Manufacturer. 
Messrs. L. Negrioli & Co. 
irTcaT-Mr'-p-vr S Mr. E. Steigerwald, Glass Manufacturer. 

Jilhbi^UL-JN I Messrs. J. Bergmann & Co. 

RATISBON Mr. Auguste Koch. 

NUREMBERG Mr. Paolo Galimberti, at the Red Horse. 

BASLE Messrs, Jean Preiswerk & Fils. 

BERNE Mr. Auguste Buesche. Mr. Albert Trumpy. 

GENEVA Messrs. Ritzchel, Pere & Fils, Grand Quai. 

INTERLACKEN Mr. J. Wyder. 

GRINDELWALD ... Mr. S. Rothacher, Fils. 

HAMBURG Messrs. Schaar & Clauss ; Mr. C. B. Arnold. 

PRAGUE -I ^ r " ^' H° FMANN ; Glass Manufacturer, Kleinen Ring, No. 456. 

1 Mr. A. V. Lebada, Gun Maker, &c. 

r a t?t <«"R a n J Mr. Thomas Wolf, Glass Manufacturer. 

tAKLBDAD j Mr Carl KnqlL; &u Li(m Blanc> 

VIENNA Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, am Lugeck, No. 6S7- 

SALSBURG Mr. Alois Duregger. 

DttFSDFN -f Messrs. ^. F- Thode Sbhne. 

-^ ]\{ a( j ame Helena Wolfsohn, Schossergasse, No. 5. 

NEW YORK Messrs. Wilbur & Scott. 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 



MUNICH. 



FRANCIS STEIGERWALD, 

MANUFACTURER OF ALL KINDS OF 

fmi %xlitlm k knim k Wtyit k €ulnitt <£qatol @lm, 

CUT, OR ORNAMENTED WITH GILDING, PAINTING, OR ENGRAVING, 

Begs respectfully to inform the Public that his large Stock at 
MUNICH, the acknowledged seat of the Fine Arts in Germany, 
is, as it has been for many years, carefully supplied with the 
NEWEST and CHOICEST PRODUCE of his FACTORY. 

Francis Steigerwald has also an Establishment at Kissingen 
during the Season. 

Requesting his Customers and Correspondents in ENGLAND 
to continue to this Establishment the favour and confidence 
they have been pleased to bestow on his former one at FRANK- 
FORT ON THE MAINE, he begs to state that Purchases or 
Orders will be transmitted on the shortest notice, and without 
any further trouble, through the medium of his Agents, Messrs. 
J. & R. M'Cracken, No. 7, Old Jewry, London. 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 7 



FRANKFOBT 0. M. 



P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSORS 

(LATE FRANCIS STEIGERWALD,) 

ZEIL D, No. 17, 



P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSORS beg to acquaint the Public, that 
they have become the Purchasers of Mr. F. Steigerwald's Establish- 
ment in this Town, for the Sale of Bohemian Fancy Cut Glass and 
Crystals. 

They have always an extensive and choice Assortment of the 
Newest and most Elegant Patterns of 

ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGRAVED, GILT, AND PAINTED GLASS 

Both White mid Coloured, 

In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Articles for the Table and Toilet, 
and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful branch of manu- 
facture. They solicit, and will endeavour to merit, a continuance of 
the favours of the Public, which the late well-known House enjoyed in 
an eminent degree during a considerable number of years. 

P. A. Tacchi's Successors have Branch Establishments during the 
Season at 

WIESBADEN AND EMS, 

Where will always be found Selections of the newest Articles from 
their principal Establishment. 



Their Agents in England, to whom they undertake to forward Pur- 
chases made of them, are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry, 
London. 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 



FRANKFORT 0. M. 



BING BEOTHEES, 







ZEIL, No. 31, 
(opposite the hotel de russie,) 

MANUFACTORY OF: ARTICLES IN STAG'S] HORN, 

DEPOT OF DRESDEN CHINA. 

COPY OF THE STATUE OF ARIADNE. 

*** AH kinds of Parisian Fancy Articles. 



Messrs. BING Brothers beg respectfully to invite the Public to visit their 
Establishment, where they have always on show, and for sale, a most extensive 
Assortment of Articles in Stag's Horn, of their own manufacture ; consisting of 
Brooches, Ear-rings, Bracelets, Pen and Pencil-holders, Seals, Ink-stands, Watch- 
stands, Snuff-boxes, Cigar-boxes, Whips, Walking-sticks, Knives, Card-cases, and 
every description of article for the Writing and Work Table, besides Vases and 
other ornamental objects too various to be here enumerated. 

Messrs. Bing have also the finest Copies, both in Biscuit-China and Bronze, of 
the Statue of Ariadne, the Chef-d'oeuvre of the Sculptor Danneckek, of which the 
original is in Bethman's Museum at Frankfort O. M. 

Messrs. Bing have likewise the Sole Dep6t in Frankfort of the Porcelain of 
the Royal Manufactory of Dresden ; and at their Establishment may be seen the 
most splendid assortment of Figures after the Ancient Models, ornamented with 
Lace-work of the most extraordinary fineness ; likewise Dinner, Dessert, and Tea 
Services ; Plates, Vases, Candelabras, Baskets, &c. &c, in the Antique Style, 
ornamented with flowers in relief, and the finest paintings. 

Besides the above-named objects, tbey have a superb assortment of Clocks, 
Bronzes, Porcelain, and other Fancy Objects, the productions of Germany, France, 
and England. 

Depot of the veritable Eau de Cologne of Jean Maria Farina } of Cologne. 
$55* Their Agents in London are J. and R. M'Crackkn, 7, Old Jewry. 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 



COLOGNE 0. RHINE. 



JOHN MARIA FARINA, 

(opposite the julich's place,) 

PURVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA; TO H. M. F. W. N., KING OF 

PRUSSIA; H. M. NICOLAS I., EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; H. M. ERNEST 

AUGUSTUS, KING OF HANOVER, ETC., ETC. 

OF THE 

ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE. 



HPHE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the 
-*- most part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to 
request the attention of all English travellers to the following statement : — 

Since the first establishment of my house in 1709, there has never been any partner 
in the business who did not bear the name of Faeina, nor has the manufacture of a 
second and cheaper quality of Eau de Cologne ever been attempted, Since 1828 
however, several inhabitants of Cologne have entered into engagements with Italians of 
the name of Farina, and, by employing that name, have succeeded to a very great extent 
in foisting an inferior and spurious article upon the Public. 

But they have in this rivalry in trade not been satisfied with the mere usurpation 
of my name, the concluding phrase, "opposite the JulicKs Place" which had so long 
existed my especial property, was not allowed to remain in its integrity. To deceive 
and lead astray again those of the public who are not fully conversant with the locality 
and circumstances, the competition seized hold of the word " opposite" and more than 
one settled in my immediate neighbourhood, that they might avail themselves to the full 
extent of the phrase " opposite the JulicKs Place." When tried before the courts, the 
use only of the word " opposite " was forbidden, which, however, has been supplied by the 
word " at " or "near," with the addition of the number of their houses. It is true, another 
less flagrant,;but not less deceitful invention was, that several of my imitators established 
the sites of their manufactories in other public places of the town, to enable them to make 

use of the phrase " opposite Place, or Market," on their address cards or labels, 

speculating with respect to the proper name " Julich," on the carelessness or forgetfulness 
of the consumer. I therefore beg to inform all strangers visiting Cologne that my 
establishment, which has existed since 1709, is exactly opposite the Julich's Place, 
forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt and Oben Mai-spforten, No. 23, 
and that it may be the more easily recognised, I have put up the arms of England, 
Eussia, &c, &c, in the front of my house. By calling the attention of the public to this 
notice, I hope to check that system of imposition which has been so long practised 
towards foreigners by coachmen, valets de place, and others, who receive bribes from the 
vendors of the many spurious compounds sold under my name. 

J. M. FARINA, 

Opposite the Julich's Place. 

*** My Custom-house Agents in London are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 
7, Old Jewry ; and my Agent for Great Britain is Mr. Wm. Langenbeck, 15, 
Maddox Street, Regent Street, and 9 Lime Street, City. 



10 MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 



BRUSSELS. 



CARRIAGES AND HORSES. 



T. SUFFELL 

Respectfully informs British and American 
Travellers they can always obtain a choice of 

EXCELLENT VEHICLES, 

OR 

GOOD SADDLE HORSES, 

TO CONVEY PARTIES 

TO AND FROM WATERLOO, 

At very reasonable prices. 



HEIDELBERG. 



For Carriages by the day, half day, or 
hour, apply to T. SUFFELL, 12, Rue St. 
Laurent, Montagne de la Cour, on the right 
hand side descending from the Place Royale. 

Carriages of every description for town use. 

Paid Horse Carriages for Waterloo, 20 fr.; 
Gig or Cab, 15 fr.; and a Saddle Horse, 12 fr. 



UTTERLAKEIT. 



A Gentleman who found quiet and reason- 
able accommodation at the 

UNTERSEEN, INTERLAKEN, 

Takes this method of making the circum- 
stance known for the benefit of the Pro- 
prietor, M. RUCTI. 



DOMO D'OSSOLA. 



GRAND HOTEL D'ESPAGNE, 

DE 

JAQUES NICOLAZZI. 

ENGLISH TRAVELLERS will find in 
this Hotel cleanliness, prompt service, 
a good kitchen, the best wines, and moderate 
charges. Large and small Apartments. 

HOESES AND CAERIAGES. 



ANNONCE. 



LA GALERIE DES ANTIQUITES 

DTJ 

Chateau de Heidelberg. 

FORMfiE PAR 

LE COMTE DE GRAIMBERG-, 

Est a voir dans le batiment de la Chapelle, 
dit communement le Palais de Frederic IV. 
Le fondateur y a reuni, avec des frais de 
tous genres, et par des recherches proches 
et a distance, pendant quarante ans, tout 
ce qu'il a pu decouvrir de relatif au 

CHATEAU DE HEIDELBERG, 

Ainsi qu' a ses anciens Princes des Families 
Palatines et de Baviere, et a ses proprietaires 
actuels de la maison de Bade, en portraits, 
en tableaux, dessins, gravures, vieilles 
armes, sculptures, me"dailles, porcelaines, 
verrieres, diplomes, &c. Le tout composant 
un ensemble de onze a douze mille numeros, 
et sans doute la seule galerie de cette nature 
qui existe. 

Outre ce service rendu au pays, autant 
pour l'agrement que pour l'utilite de tous, 
la ville de Heidelberg doit encore a Mons. 
de Graimberg, en grande partie, la renom- 
mee de ses ruines, par ses 

PLANCHES DU CHATEAU DE 

HEIDELBERG. 
GRAVEES PAR Cn. HALDENWANG, 

Le Premier Artiste en Paysage de Fepoque. 

Et qu'on peut se procurer chez l'auteur 
dans la galerie des antiquites du Chator.u. 
sans compter que Mons. de Graimberg n'a 
pas moins contribue a la conservation de 
ses ruines, en s'en faisant le protecteur et 
le gardien, dans un terns ou leur merite, si 
universel aujourd'hui, doit encore peu 
connu. 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 1 11 



MILANO GRAND ROYAL HOTEL. 

(ALBERGO REALE.) 



BY 



GIOACHINO BRTJSCHETTI. 



HPHIS splendid and most commodious Hotel, constructed only 
with two stories high, has been taken by the present sole 
Proprietor, Gioachino Bruschetti, who for the past twenty years 
has travelled with some of the most distinguished families, and 
lived at several periods in England ; by these advantages, he 
fully hopes he has learned how to conduct a great Establishment 
like the Grand Royal Hotel, and to give the desired satisfaction, 
with cleanliness, promptitude, and exactness of service. Good 
kitchen, best wines, and at prices exceedingly moderate. 

The whole of the Hotel has been by him newly furnished with 
becoming elegance ; well studied arrangements combined with 
every comfort that can possibly be required. 



An excellent Table d'Hote daily, in the lagnifico Salone on the first 
floor, capable of containing above One Hundred Persons. 






IN THE SAME ESTABLISHMENT WILL BE FOUND 

A WELL SELECTED GALLERY OF OLD PAINTINGS 

BY THE BEST AND MOST NOTED MASTERS. 



12 MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 



BONN ON THE RHINE. 



MR. SCHMITZ, 

PROPRIETOR OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL, 

Begs leave to recommend his Hotel to English Travellers. The apart- 
ments are furnished throughout in the English style ; the rooms are 
carpeted, and the attendance, as well as the kitchen and the wine-cellar, 
is well provided. 

The STAR HOTEL has been honoured by the visits of the following 
Members of the English Royal Family : — 

' H. M. Adelaide, Queen Dowager of Great Britain, accompanied 

by His Highness Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, Lord and 

1846. June 18. -| Lady Barrington, Sir David Davis, M.D., Kev. J. E. Wood, 

M.A., Captain Taylor, &c. &c, honoured the above establishment 

■with a Three Days' Visit. 



1818. May 

1825. March 
and Sept. 

1834. July 

1836. Aug. 

1837. July 
1839. Nov. 

— Nov. 
1840 



1841 
1841 

1844 



1845. , June 



1847. July 



•I 



•( 



H.K.H. the Duke of Cambridge and Suite. 

H.E.H. the Duke and Duchess of Clarence and Suite. 

H.M. Queen Adelaide, accompanied by the Earl and Countess of 
Errol, Earl and Countess of Denbigh, Earl and Countess 
Howe, &c. 

H.E.H. the Duchess of Gloucester and Suite. 

H.E.H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 

H. E. H. the Prince George of Cambridge and Suite. 

H.E.H. Prince Albert of Saxe Coburg Gotha, accompanied by 
Prince Ernest of Saxe Coburg Gotha, and their Suite. 

H.E.H. the Duchess of Cambridge, accompanied by the Princess 
Augusta of Cambridge, and their Suite. 

H.E.H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S.H. the 
Prince of Leiningen. 

H. E. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 

H.E.H. Princess Carolina of Cambridge. 

H. E. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 

H.E.H. Princess Mary of Cambridge. 

H. E. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the 
Prince of Leiningen. 

H. E. H. the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, with their Family 
and Suite. 



Mr. SCHMITZ begs to add, that at no Hotel on the Rhine will be found 

more moderate charges. 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 13 



LEGHORN. 

— 4 — 

BLACK EAGLE ROYAL HOTEL. 

THE PROPRIETOR, 

LOUIS DATTARI, 

Has the honour to inform all the Travellers 
that his Hotel, newly furnished, is situated 
in the most central part of the town, com- 
mands the view of the sea, and can be 
approached by the sea. There is a ' .able 
d'HSte, and Coach House. 



LEGHORN. 

— ♦ — 

HOTEL VICTORIA. 

KEPT BY 

Louis Dattari and Thou Memiui. 

THIS HOTEL, newly fitted up, is the 
most elegant one for its situation, besides 
having a southern aspect ; it is in the prin- 
cipal street of the town, and near to the 
port. There is a Table d'H6te, Baths, and 
Coach House. 



ALINES, BELGIUM. 



HOTEL DE LA GRUE 5 GRAND PLACE, 



KEPT BY 



D. BR EUGELM ANS. 

HPHIS is decidedly tli,e largest and best Hotel at Malmes. 

Good Beds, excellent Wines, Baths, with every comfort of a private house. 
Families may be accommodated with private apartments for any length of time, 
and as cheap as at home. 



DRESDEN. 



MAGAZINE OE ANTIQUITIES AND FINE ARTS. 

HELENA WOLSOHN, nee MEYER, 

(SUCCESSOR OF L. MEYER AND SONS), 

5, SCHLOSSERGASSE, 

Begs respectfully to solicit the inspection of her establishment, where she has 
always on show and for sale a most extensive assortment of Old Saxon China, Old 
Sevres and Japan, Antique Furniture, Bronzes, Old Lace, such as Points de 
Bruxelles and D'Alenqon, Points de Venise, Guipure, &c, &c. Venetian, Ruby, 
and Painted Glass, Rock Crystal, Ivory Work, Enamels, Mosaic Work, Armour, 
Gobelins Tapestry, Fans, and many other remarkable and curious articles. 

HER AGENTS IN ENGLAND ARE 

MESSRS. J. & R. M'CRACKEN, 7, OLD JEWRY, LONDON. ' i 



14 MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER.' 



MUNICH. 



J. If. DE HERMANN, 

EOYAL PKOMENADE STEASSE, No. 12. 

MAGAZINE OF OBJECTS OF FINE ARTS, PICTURES, PRINTS, 
DRAWINGS, AND LITHOGRAPHS. 



J. M. DE HERMANN has always on Sale a Collection of Pictures by Modern 
Artists (German and others), of Miniatures and Drawings, Engravings and Litho- 
graphs. The latter comprises the Collections of the Pinacothek, of the Galleries 
of Schleissheim and the Duke of Leuchtenberg at Munich, as well as that of the 
Royal Gallery of Dresden : also the Collection of the Works of the Old School, 
better known as the " Collection of the Freres Boissere ;" the Frescoes in the 
Church of All-Saints, and generally of whatever relates to the Fine Arts. 

J. M. DE HERMANN undertakes to forward to England all Purchases 
made at his Establishment, through his Agents, Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 
7, Old Jewry. 



FLORENCE. 



O. BIANCHINI, 



MANUFACTURER OF TABLES AND LADIES' ORNAMENTS, OF 

FLORENTINE MOSAIC. 

No. 4844, Via de' Nelli, opposite the Royal Chapel of the Medici, 

Invites the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where may 
always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful Manufacture, 
in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for Tables and other 
Ornaments executed to any Design. 

G. Bianchini , s Agents in England are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 7, Old 
Jewry, London. 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 15 

GENOA. 

— — ♦ — 

GRAND HOTEL DE LA VILLE. 
J. SCHMITZ. 

4 

This Hotel, the ancient Palace of St. Pancrazio, situated on the Port, and commanding 
a beautiful view of the sea, has been restored and enlarged by the present proprietor, who 
has done all in his power to render it essentially comfortable. 

The attendance is equal to that of the first hotels of the north. Charges moderate. Private 
rooms from fcs. 1. 50, and sumptuous apartments for large families. Table d'Hote at 
5 o'clock. Baths. All the principal Newspapers. Excellent Stabling and lock-up Coach- 
houses. 

Mr. Schmitz, the Proprietor, who is also a manufacturer of filligree Silver, has a depot 
in the hotel. 

MR. EDWIN LEE ON CONTINENTAL LOCALITIES, CLIMATES, BATHS, ETC. 

» « 

One Volume, post 8vo, 8s. 

THE CONTINENT; 

ITS CLIMATES, BATHS, AND REMEDIAL RESOURCES. 

With Observations on the Influence of Climate and Travelling, Tables, &c. 

Also, One Volume, (pp. 400), 7s. 6d. 

THE BATHS OF GERMANY & RHENISH 

GERMANY ; 

With Practical Observations on Mineral Waters, and Notices of the adjacent 

Towns. 



With Plate and Map, 3s. 6d. 

NICE ET SON CLIMAT. 

AVEC DES NOTICES SUR LE LITTORAL DE LA MEDITERRANgE. 

London: Churchill, Princes-street ; Bailliere, Regent-street ; and Adams, Fleet-street. 
Paris : Galignani. Nice : Visconti. 



LONDON. 

WHERETO BUY A DRESSING-CASE. 

IN no article perhaps is caution 
more necessary than iu the purchase of 
a Dressing Case, for in none are the mere- 
tricious arts of the unprincipled manufac- 
turers more frequently displayed. MECHI, 
4, LEADENHALL STREET, near Grace- 
church-street, has long enjoyed the reputa- 
tion of producing a Dressing Case in the 
most finished and faultless manner. Those 
who purchase one of him will he sure of 
having thoroughly-seasoned and well-pre- 
pared wood or leather, Avith the fittings of 
first-rate quality. The prices range from 
£1 to £100. Thus the man of fortune and the 
man of moderate means may alike be suited, 
while the traveller will find the Mechian 
Dressing Case especially adapted to his 
necessities.— 4, LEADENHALL STREET. 



London & Westminster Bank 

ISSUES CIRCULAR NOTES 

For £10 each, for the use of travellers and 
residents on the Continent. These notes 
are payable at every important place in 
Europe, and thus enable a traveller to vary 
his route without inconvenience. No 
expense is incurred, and when cashed no 
charge is made for commission. They may 
be obtained at the head office of the London 
and Westminster Bank, in Lothbury; or 
at its branches, viz.: 1, St. James' s-square; 
214, High Holborn ; 3, Wellington-street, 
Borough ; 87, High-street, Whitechapel ; 
and 4, Stratford-place, Oxford-street. 

J. W. GILBART, General Manager. 



16 MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 



UNION BANK OF LONDON 



>- 



IB {rectors. 

SIR PETER LAURIE, Alderman, Governor. 
WILLIAM MOUNTFORD NURSE, Esq., Deputy Governor. 



Rt. Hon. the Lord Mayor. 
John Barnes, Esq. 
James Farquhar, Esq. 
Leo Schuster, Esq. 



Peter Northall Laurie, 

Esq. 
Charles Lyall, Esq. 
John Chapman, Esq. 



Henry Hulbert, Esq. 
Archibald Boyd, Esq. 
Lieut.-Col. Matheson, M.P. 
John Scott, Esq. 



William Wilson Scrimgeour, General Manager. Walter Laurie, Secretary. 



CIRCULAR NOTES. 

The Directors give notice that they issue CIRCULAR NOTES of the value of £10 
and upwards, free of expense, and LETTERS OF CREDIT payable by their Corre- 
spondents at the several places indicated below. To be obtained at the Head Office, 
2, Princes Street, Mansion House; the Regent Street Branch, Argyle Place; 
and at the Charing Cross Branch, 4, Pall Mall East. 



Abbeville 


Cairo 


Aix-en-Provence 


Calais 


Aix-la-Chapelle 


Calcutta 


Alexandria 


Canada (Upper) 


Aleppo 


Canton 


Alicante 


Cape Town 


Almeira 


Carlsbad 


Amiens 


Carlsruhe 


Amsterdam 


Cephalonia 


Ancona 


Cette 


Antwerp 


Ceylon 


Athens 


Chalon (sur 


Augsbourg 


Saone) 


Avignon 


Chambery 


Avranches 


Chaux de fonds 


Baden-Baden 


Christiana 


Bagdad 


Christiansand 


Barcelona 


Clermont Fer- 


Basle 


rand 


Beirout 


Coblenz 


Benares 


Cologne 


Bergen 


Constance 


Berlin 


Constantinople 


Berne 


Copenhagen 


Besancon 


Cordova 


Bilbao 


Corfu 


Blois 


Corunna 


Bologna (en 


Damascus 


Italie) 


Dantzic 


Bombay 


Darmstadt 


Bonn 


Delhi 


Bordeaux 


Dieppe 


Botzen 


Dijon 


Boulogne (sur 


Dresden 


Mer) 


Drontheim 


Bremen 


Dunkirk 


Breslau 


Dusseldorf 


Bruges 


Elberfield 


Briinn 


Elsinore 


Brunswick 


Emms 


Brussels 


Florence 


Cadiz 


Francfort (sur 


Caen 


Maine) 



Geneva 


Mauritius (Port 


Rotterdam 


Genoa 


Louis) 


Rouen 


Ghent 


Mayence 


Salzburg 


Gibraltar 


Messina 


Santa Cruz, 


Gottenbourg 


Milan 


Teneriffe 


Gottingen 


Montpellicr 


Schwalback 


Graefenburg 


Montreal 


Seville 


Granville 


Moscow 


Shauffausen 


Gratz 


Munich 


Siena 


Halifax (Nova 


Munster 


Singapore 


Scotia) 


Nancy 


Smyrna 


Hamburg 


Nantes 


Spa 


Hanover 


Naples 


St. Galle 


Havre 


Neuchatel 


St. Malo 


Hague 


New Orleans 


St. Omer 


Heidelburg 


New York 


St. Petersburg 


Hermanstadt 


Nice 


Stockholm 


Homburg es 


Nismes 


Strasbourg 


monts 


Nurembourg 


Stuttgardt 


Hong Kong 


■Ditto (Fiirth 


Tarbes 


Innspruck 


near) 


Teneriffe 


Interlaken 


Oleron 


Toronto 


Kissingen 


Oporto 


Toulon 


Konigsberg 


Orleans 


Toulouse 


Lausanne 


Ostend 


Tours 


Leghorn 


Palermo 


Treves 


Leipsic 


Paris 


Trieste 


Liege 


Parma 


Turin 


Lisbon 


Patras 


Utrecht 


Locle 


Pau 


Valenciennes 


L'Orient 


Perpignan 


Valencia 


Lubeck 


Pest 


Venice 


Lucerne 


Pisa 


Verona 


Lyon 


Port St. Mary 


Vevey 


Lucca (Bains de) 


Prague 


Vienna 


Madeira 


Presbourg 


Vigo 


Madras 


Quebec 


Warsaw 


Madrid 


Rastadt 


Weimar 


Malaga 


Ratisbonne 


Wiesbaden 


Malta 


Rennes 


Wurzbourg 


Mannheim 


Rio de Janeiro 


Yverdon 


Marienbad 


Rome 


Zante 


Marseilles 


Rostock 


Zurich 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 17 

MALTA.-EGYPT.-INDIA.-IONIAN ISLES. 



JSg ^jjjjomtntent 



OF 



THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. 



H. B. Majesty Steam Packets, possessing every requisite accommodation for the 
comfort of passengers, keep up a regular Communication between England and India, 
vid Marseilles, Malta, and Alexandria, twice a Month. 

These fine Vessels leave Marseilles for Malta on the 9th and 26th, and Malta for 
Marseilles about the 12th and 24th, performing the passage in about 68 hours. 

On the 13th one of these Packets is despatched, to Alexandria with the India Mails and 
passengers, which place she leaves with the Homeward Mail and passengers about the 
21st, occupying about 90 hours in the voyage. The Packet for Marseilles waits hex* 
arrival, also one of the Peninsular Company's Boats, to convey passengers to England vid 
Gibraltar, to the 26th. 

IONIAN ISLES. 

On the 1st and 13th of each month one of these Packets is despatched to Corfu, vid 
Cephalonia, Zante and Patras, from whence passengers can proceed to Athens. She 
remains at Corfu four days, and returns (calling at the above ports) to Malta, arriving on 
the 10th and 23rd, in time to secure passages to England, vid Gibraltar or Mai-seilles. 

Freights on Specie in accordance with Admiralty regulation ; 1 per Cent, on Silver, 
f on Jewellery. 

Freight on Packages and Parcels may be known on application at the Agents'. 



Passages, including Wines, a liberal Table, and every Expense. 





1st Class. 


Female 
Servants. 


2nd Class. 


3rd Class, 

if 
Victualled. 


3rd Class, 

not 
Victualled. 




£ s. d. 


£ s. d. 


£ s. d. 


£ s. d. 


£ s. d. 


Between Malta and Marseilles 


8 2 


5 8 


4 10 


2 14 


2 6 


„ „ Alexandria 


12 10 


8 6 8 


7 2 


3 16 


2 17 1 


„ „ Corfu . . 


9 


6 


5 10 


2 10 


1 17 6 


„ „ Patras . . 


7 


4 13 4 


4 10 


1 16 


17 0' 



And the intermediate Ports in proportion. 



BOOKING AGENTS. 



MARSEILLES— L. Bouvet. 
ALEXANDRIA— Mr. Davidson. 
BOMBAY— Times Office. 
PARIS— A. & W. Galignani. 
ATHENS— C. Margaretta, Esq. 
MALTA— G. Muir, 247, Strada Reale. 
ZANTE— W. L. Reynolds, Esq. 



CEPHALONIA— Captain Lefochilo. 
SINGAPORE— Mr. Logan. 
PATRAS— T. Woodley. 
ENGLAND— Messrs. G. W. Wheatley & 

Co., 156, Leadenhall Street; and Mr. 

C. W. De Bernardy, Esq., 20, John 

Street, Adelphi, London. 



Offices will be shortly Established at other Ports. 

G. MUIR, 

Booking and Superintending Agent 
to Her Majesty's Packets in the Mediterranean. 
N.B.— Passengers leaving England by the P. and O. Company's Steamer from South- 
ampton on the 29th, are conveyed on to Alexandria by II. M.'s Packet leaving Malta on 
the 13th. Mr. Muir, the Agent, will be on board to tranship their luggage and give them 
any information. There is no expense attending it. 



18 MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 



PIEDMONT. 



ITER CURE. 
DE. BEANDEES' HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT 

AKD MAISOIST DE PLAISANCE, 

AT THE 

I Chartreuse of s Val Pesio, near Coni, in Piemont,l 

Is now open to Invalids and Visitors. 



THIS magnificent Establishment, an eligible resort for parties in search, 
of health or pleasure, replete with every comfort and accommodation, is already well 
known. The place abounds in springs of the purest water, and the air is celebrated for 
its salubrity. The soil, being gravelly, is peculiarly dry and healthy, allowing exercise 
at all seasons. \ 

This Italian Grsefenberg lies eight hours south of Turin, on the road to Nice and Genoa, 
and in the extensive domain parties may be accommodated with small private houses. 

Dr. Branders has resolved to spare neither trouble nor expense to ensure to visitors 
every comfort on the most liberal terms. 

\* For further particulars apply {franco) to ike Administrator t Mons. 
Bellissent, at the Chartreuse. 



LEGHORN. 

—4 

HIACINTH MICALI & SON, 

VIA FERDINAND A, No. 1230. 

Manufactory of Marble, Alabaster, and 
Scagliola Tables, and DepSt of Objects of 
Fine Arts. 

Their extensive Show-rooms are always 
open to Visitors. 

THEIR AGENTS IN ENGLAND ARE 

MESSRS. J. AND R. M'CRACKEN, 

7, OLD JEWRY, LONDON. 



GENOA. 



G. LOLEO, 

(SUCCESSOR TO FELIX PERNETTI,) 

No. 81, IN THE ALBERGO DELLA CROCE DI 
MALTA, 

Keeps a Magazine which boasts the richest 
and most complete assortment of every 
description of objects of the renowned and 
special production of Genoese industry. 
He invites Foreigners and Travellers to 
visit his Establishment, where every article 
is sold at fixed prices. 

His Agents in England are Messrs. J. & 
E. M'Cracken, 7, Old Jewry, London. 



ROME. 

— ♦ — 

SIGNOR L. FABEI, 

VIA CAPO LE CASE, No. 3, 

PRINTSELLER, &c, 

Has always on sale a large assortment of Ancient and Modern Engravings, Early Proofs 
of the works of Morghen, Toschi, and other first-class Engravers ; Choice Impressions 
(with the address) of the Engravings published by the "Calcografia Camerale," and at 
the same prices ; Views of Rome, &c, &c. He has also on view a choice selection of Old 
Paintings, amongst which are an authentic Leonardo da Vinci, a Guido Keni, aud others 
by celebrated and ancient artists. 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 19 



Ivfozx Eogal 




Patronage, 




Asthma, Consumption, Coughs, Colds, and all Disorders of J 
the Breath and Lungs. 

For confirmed Asthma or Consumption, two Wafers should he taken three times a day 
which -will very soon relieve the cough and breathing, and rapidly effect a cure. 

In Coughs.— The effect of Dr. Locock's Wafers is truly surprising, as within ten 
minutes after taking a dose the most violent cough is subdued. 

They have a pleasant taste, and may be taken by infants as well as adults. 

To Singers and Public Speakers, these Wafers are invaluable, as by their action 
on the throat and lungs they remove all hoarseness in a few hours, and wonderfully 
increase the power and flexibility of the voice. 

Note. — Full directions are given with every box in the English, German, and French languages. 
Price Is. l^d., 2s. 9d., and lis. per box. The 2s. 9d. Boxes contain nearly three of the 
Is. li|d., and the lis. Boxes contain five of those at 2s. 9d. Also, 




thev have a most pleasant taste. Price Is. l^d., 2s. Qd., and lis. per box. 
• This is an aromatic and aperient medicine of great efficacy for regulating the secretions 
aud correcting the action of the Stomach and Liver, and is the only safe remedy for all 
Bilious AFFECTiONS,^Heartburn, Sick Head-ache, Giddiness, Pains in the Stomach, 
Flatulency, or Wind, and all those complaints which' arise from Indigestion or Biliousness. 
It is mild in its action, and suitable for all seasons and constitutions, while its agree- 
able taste renders it the best medicine for Children. Also, 




Price Is. l£-d., 2s. 9d., and lis. per box, have a pleasant taste. 
They fortify the constitution at all periods of life, and in all Nervous Affections act like 
a charm. They remove all Obstructions, Heaviness, Fatigue on Slight Exertion, Palpi- 
tation of the Heart, Lowness of Spirits, Weakness, and allay Pain. 

They create Appetite, and remove Indigestion, Heartburn, Wind, Head-ache, Giddi- 
ness, &e. 

In Hysterical Diseases, a proper perseverance in the use of this Medicine will be found 
to effect a Cure after all other means have failed. 

*#* Full directions are given with every Box, 
Note. — These Wafers do not contain any mineral, and may be taken either dissolve 
in water or whole. 

beware of imitations in the form of pills. 

It will be understood that the above are three different medicines, and are not one 
Medicine under various names. 

Prepared only by the proprietors, Da Silva & Co., 26, Bride-lane, Fleet-street, London; 
and sold by every respectable Medicine Vendor. 

Observe. — That every genuine box has printed on the Government Stamp the words, 
" Dr. Locock's Wafers," and that the signature of " Da Silva & Co," of 26, Bride- 
lane, London, is on the directions given with every box. As the Stamp of the British 
Government is extensively imitated in foreign countries, the Signature of the proprietors, (as 
above) is the only reliable mark of Genuineness. 



20 MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 




(BLACK'S GUIDE BOOKS 
1 I TRAVELLING MAPS. 

" They should find a corner in the portmanteau of every person about to undertake a journey 
of pleasure or business either in England and Wales, or Scotland." — John Bull. 

" The most valuable series of Picturesque Guide Books issued by 3Iessrs. Black of Edinburgh. 
We have looked carefully through the volumes : they are admirably ' got up;' the descriptions 
are accurate, and remarkably clear and comprehensive. Altogether the series of works is of im- 
mense value to tourists." — Aiit Journal. 



Price 10s. 66.., a New Edition, greatly enlarged of 

TOack's Picturesque Tourist, and Eoad and Eailway Guide- 

"*** Book through ENGLAND and WALES, containing 194 Routes, and 26 
Maps and Charts, besides Views of the Scenery. The Index contains upwards of 
5000 Names, with the Inns in all the Towns and Villages. The Volume is tersely 
written, closely printed, and portable. 

" A decided improvement upon the old road-book." — John Bull. 

" A carefully-executed work, prettily illustrated, with useful maps." — Athenaeum. 

" 48 new routes, 12 engraved charts, and upwards of 100 pages of letterpress have been 
added to what in its olden state was the cheapest, the best, and the handiest book of its kind." 
— Spectator. 

Price 8s. 6d., an Eighth Edition of 

Jllack's Picturesque Tourist of Scotland— Highlands and Low- 
lands—with 24 Maps, Plans, and Charts, and 50 Views of Scenery and 
Public Buildings. 

"A comprehensive, intelligent, and well-arranged guide-book. "We have been furnished 
with an incidental proof of the remarkable accuracy of the charts and descriptions, in the 
personal testimony of a pedestrian, who has traversed a considerable space book in hand." — 
Spectator. 

Price 10s. 6d., a Third Edition (800 pp.), enlarged, of 

Jluide to the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, including 

** ORKNEY and ZETLAND, with Directions for visiting the Lowlands, 
Tables of Distances, Notices of Inns, and other Information. 

By GEORGE and PETER ANDERSON of Inverness. 

"An original and solid work, which tells all that common guide-books profess to tell, but 
more fully and with better arrangement." — Spectator. 

" Most copiously and praiseworthily minute." — Athenceum. 

Price 5s., a Fourth Edition, enlarged and improved, of 

"glack's Picturesque Guide to the English Lakes. With an 

Essay on the Geology of the District, by John Phillips, F. R. S. G. L. 
late Professor of Geology and Mineralogy in the University of Dublin ; a minutely 
accurate Map, by W. Hughes; Charts of the Lakes; Views of the Scenery ; and 
an ample Itinerary of all the Routes, with the Distances accurately laid down. 

"It is a Picturesque Guide in every sense — its descriptions are charmingly written— its in- 
telligence is ample and minute — and its illustrations are admirable specimens of art." — Atlas. 

NEW EDITIONS OF 
Black's Iron Highways from London to Edinburgh & Glasgow ; the one con- 
taining a Chart 64 inches long, the other a Chart of 46 inches. Is 6d. each. 
Black's Economical Tourist of Scotland. 3s 6d. 
Black's Guide through Edinburgh. 2s 6d. 
Black's Guide through Glasgow. 2s. 
Black's Road and Railway Map of England. 4s 6d'. 
Black's Road and Railway Map of Scotland. 4s 6d. 
Black's Travelling Map of Ireland. 2s 6d. 
Black's Map of the English Lake District. 2s 6d. 
Black's Map of North Wales. Is 6d. South Wales. Is6d. 
Black's County Maps of Scotland. Is. each. 
Elack's Plan of Edinburgh and Environs. Is 6d. 
Black's Tourist's Memorial of Scotland. 5s. 
Black's Map of Central Europe. 4s 6d. 

Adam & Charles Black, Edinburgh ; and Sold by all Booksellers. 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 21 



MUNICH. 



HOTEL MAULICH. 

EY E. MAULICH. 

rPHIS Hotel, which is the first in Munich, is situated in a- central and most 
convenient position for Visitors to this renowned seat of the Fine Arts. 

It is conducted on a most liberal scale, and the Proprietor leaves nothing 
undone which a constant personal active superintendence can effect, to ensure 
the comfort and convenience of his Visitors. It has been honoured with the 
patronage of the highest personages of the Continent and Great Britain. 

The Proprietor begs to assure those who may honour him with their patronage 
that they may rely on a continuance of his endeavours to merit the same, and to 
maintain the reputation of his Establishment. 



RECENT WORKS. 



GROTE'S HISTORY OF GREECE. 

FROM THE EAKLIEST PERIOD DOWN TO THE END OF THE PELOPONNESSIAN W E. 

Second Edition. Maps. Vols. 1 to 8. 8vo. 16s. each. 

CAMPBELL'S LIVES OF THE CHIEF JUSTICES. 

2 vols. 8vo. 30s. 

CAMPBELL'S LIVES OF THE LORD CHANCELLORS, 

Third Edition. 7 vols. 8vo. 102s. 

TICKNOR'S HISTORY OF SPANISH LITERATURE. 

3 vols. 8vo. 42s. 

RANKE'S HISTORY OF PRUSSIA. 

3 vols. 8vo. 36s. 

I 

LYELL'S MANUAL OF ELEMENTARY GEOLOGY. 

Third Edition. 500 Woodcuts. 8vo. 12s. 

MRS. SOMERVILLE'S PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. 

Third Edition. Portrait. 2 vols. Fcap. 8vo. 12s. 



70HN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 



22 MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 



ILLUSTRATED WORKS. 




3knk nf Cnmmnit ^rmjm 

WITH 1000 ILLUSTRATIONS, 

INCLUDING ORNAMENTAL BORDERS, INITIAL LETTERS, AND HISTORICAL 
ENGRAVINGS EROM THE OLD ITALIAN AND GERMAN MASTERS. 

8vo, 21s. cloth; 31s. Qd. calf; 42s. morocco. 



" The Missals of former days, many of 
them the labour of years of patient toil and 
misdirected devotion, are here surpassed 
by the mechanical apparatus which modern 
science has made applicable to the purposes 



of decorative printing. The brilliancy of 
effect, and the permanency of the colours, 
will be found to have surpassed, with a few 
exceptions, anything that antiquity has 
produced." — The Times. 



NINEVEH AIND ITS EEMAINS: 

WITH AN ENQUIRY INTO THE MANNERS AND ARTS OF THE ANCIENT ASSYRIANS. 

By AUSTEN H. LAYARD, D.C.L. 

Fifth Edition. "With numerous Plates. 2 vols. 8vo. 36s. 



THE MONUMENTS 0E NINEYEH. 

ILLUSTRATED EROM DRAWINGS MADE BY MR. LAYARD ON THE SPOT. 

100 Plates, large folio, £10 10s. 

" We question whether a more enlightened ] Layard is to be met with in the annals of our 
or a more enterprising traveller than Mr. | modern English history." — Times. 



LIEE AND W0KKS OF HORACE. 

EDITED WITH NOTES BY THE VEKY REV. DEAN MILMAN. 

Illustrated with 300 Vignette Woodcuts., chiefly from the Antique. 

Crown 8vo. 42s. 



jESOP'S fables. 

A NEW TRANSLATION, BY REV. THOMAS JAMES, M.A. 

Illustrated by John Tenniel. 100 Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 16s. 



THE FAIEY EING. 

A COLLECTION OF TALES AND STORIES FROM THE GERMAN, FOR YOUNG PERSONS* 
Illustrated with Woodcuts. Second Edition. Feap. 8vo. 7s. 6d. 



JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 23 

WORKS ON THE FINE ARTS. 

— ♦ — 

THE PHILOSOPHY AND ANATOMY OF EXPRESSION. 

AS CONNECTED WITH THE FINE ARTS. BY SIR CHARLES BELL. 
Fourth Edition. Plates. Imperial 8vo, 21s. 

II. 
SKETCHES OF THE HISTORY OF CHRISTIAN ART. 

BY LORD LINDSAY. 3 vols. 8vo, 31s. Qd. 
III. 

HISTORY OF PAINTING; ITALIAN SCHOOLS. 

FROM THE GERMAN OF KUGLER. EDITED BY SIR CHARLES EASTLAKE, P.R.A. 
Second Edition. With Woodcuts from the Old Masters. 2 vols. Post 8vo. 24s. 

IV. 

HISTORY OF PAINTING; GERMAN AND DUTCH SCHOOLS. 

FROM THE GERMAN OF KUGLER. EDITED BY SIR EDMUND HEAD, BART. 

Post 8vo, 12s. 

v. 
HISTORY OF PAINTING: SPANISH AND FRENCH SCHOOLS. 

BY SIR EDMUND HEAD, BART. Post 8vo, 12s. 
VI. 

ESSAYS ON THE LITERATURE OF THE FINE ARTS. 

BY SIR CHARLES EASTLAKE, P.R.A. 8vo, 12s. 
VII. 

THE ARTS OF THE MIDDLE AGES. 

' BY THE MONK THEOPHILUS. EDITED BY ROBERT HENDRIE. 8vo, 21s. 

VIII. 

THE ARTS OF PAINTING IN OIL AND ON GLASS, 

AND OTHER STYLES DESCRIBED IN SEVERAL UNPUBLISHED MANUSCRIPTS. 
EDITED BY MRS. MERRIFIELD. 2 vols. Svo, 24s. 

IX. 

GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE IN FRANCE; 

OR, AN ENQUIRY INTO THE ROMANESQUE AND POINTED STYLES. 
BY THOMAS INKERSLEY. 8vo, 12s. 

X. 

A HISTORY OF POTTERY AND PORCELAIN, 

With a Description of the Manufacture, a Glossary, and a List of Monograms. 
BY JOSEPH MARRYAT. Plates and Woodcuts. 8vo. 31s. 6c?. 



JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 



24 



MURRAY'S CONTINENTAL HAND-BOOK ADVERTISER. 





LSS'S 
Polyglot 
Washing 

Books, 

(To save Travellers 
the trouble of trans- 
lating their Washing 
Bills) 

FOB LADIES. 

Ditto 

FOB GENTLEMEN. 

English & French. 
English & Italian. 
English & German. 
English & Spanish. 
English & Portuguese. 
Is. each. 



PASSPORTS 

Carefully Mounted and inserted in 
morocco cases, with name lettered in 
gold. 



Ambassadors' Signatures obtained 
to British Secretary of State's Pass- 
ports, at one Shilling each. 



The latest editions of all Murray's 
Hand-Books ; which can generally be 
supplied when out of print and not to 
be obtained elsewhere. 



mm 



Foreign Setter 
Paper, 

Extra Large Size, 

VEBT THIN, 

Is. per Quire. 
TELESCOPES. 



PORTABLE 
ALARMS. 

Door Fasteners. 



Pocket Compasses. 



Couriers, or Travelling Servants, 
can be obtained at 



Xieather 
money-Bags. 



JOHN LEE'S GUIDE DEPOT. 

440, WEST STRAND, /^ 

TWO DOORS WEST OF LOWTHER ARCADE, 

Where an extensive Collection of Guides, Hand-Books, Maps, Dictionaries in all 
Languages, and Interpreters useful for Travellers upon the Continent or elsewhere, and 
every information concerning Passports, can he obtained. 

MURRAY'S HAND-BOOKS, rendered convenient Pocket-Books by J. Lee's linrn 
Morocco binding, at 2s. additional charge. 



MOROCCO and RUSSIA PORTABLE ROLL-UP CASES containing every essential 
for Writing. 

fKoore'S German Ihiterprtta:, 

With the exact Pronunciation in English on a separate column, price 5s. cloth, 6s. in leather 



BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHTTEFRIARS. 



RECENT VOYAGES AND TRAVELS. 



ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, AND IRELAND, including the channel 

ISLANDS AND THE ISLE OP MAN. By Sir George Hka*. Post 8vo 1& 

GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE IN FRANCE. By Thos. i NKERSL kv. Svo, i*. 
A RIDE through FRANCE AND SWITZERLAND. By a Lady. - 

post 8vo, 18*. 

SKETCH OF MADEIRA; containing Information for the 

8vo,ieI Bi ' E ' ■«««>* Haecourt. Map and Woodcuts. J 

A PHYSICIAN'S HOLIDAY, or a Month in Switzerland. By.i 
Forbks, M.D. Post Svo. 

WANDERINGS in the PYRENEES. By T. Clifton Paris. Woodcut 
Svo, 10*. 6'd. 

BUBBLES from the BRUNNEN of NASSAU. By an Olo Man. m™. 
AUSTRIAN LOM 6(f> 

HUNGARY & TJ 

D ALMATIA AND MONTENEGRO. By Sir J. G. Wilkinson. 2 vols. Svo, , 

ETRURIA; ITS CITIES AND CEMETERIES. By Georgk d™, 

Plates. 2 \< 

MONASTER! I 

Post Svo, lbs. 

THE I 3LANDS, ATHENS, and the MOREA. By Edward 

ATTICA AND ATI i Rev. Dr. Wordsworth. Svo, 1. 

3IA MINOR. 

Charl 
RESEARCHES IN ASIA MINOR. , rLT0 N. Plates. 2 , 

NINEVEH AND ITS REMAINS. ByA.H.LAYARD. Woodcuts. Post 

ARABIA PETR.EA, and MOUNT SINAI. By M. Leon de Lv 

tes, Svo, ] 

CAIRO.. PETE 

TRAVELS IN TURKEY : By Charm 

TIIE GJ??J' 0( ? Y 0F RUS SIA IN EUROr l) THE URAL 

JOHN MURRA ; T 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



020 967 903 6 



